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National Park History: Yosemite’s Cosmopolitan Bathhouse & Saloon (1871-1884)

September 20th, 2011 No comments

Submitted by Bob Janiskee on September 20, 2011 – 2:59am
National Parks Traveler.com

Cosmopolitan Bathhouse & Saloon

Back in the 1870s and 1880s, tourists who endured the long, bone-jarring ride to Yosemite Valley could enjoy some surprising amenities at the valley’s Cosmopolitan Bathhouse & Saloon. Although this unusual establishment disappeared into history 127 years ago, it left a remarkable legacy and a story well worth telling.

 

Concerned about the impacts of overgrazing, logging, mining, and other threats to the Yosemite area’s exceptional beauty and geologic resources, Congress set the land aside as a park in 1864 and gave it to the state of California to administer. This was eight years before Congress made Yellowstone America’s first national park (there being no state of Wyoming to turn the park over to), but well into the age of mass communication and aggressive tourism promotion and development. Within just a few decades, people throughout California and all over America learned about the wonders of Yosemite and developed a yen to visit the place. The transfer to state management in 1864, the end of the Civil War in 1865, the completion of the transcontinental railroad (1869), the construction of wagon roads to the Yosemite region, and other factors combined to create a Yosemite Valley tourism industry that grew at a rapid clip.

 

Yosemite’s hospitality industry began to take shape in the late 1850s and 1860s with the construction of several primitive lodging facilities, including Clark’s Station (1857) at Wawona, and Lower Hotel (1859) and Upper Hotel (later Hutchings House) in the valley. Transportation improvements and recreational infrastructure development also occurred at a fairly rapid rate during the 1860s and 70s. By the mid-1870s, Yosemite sported several privately-developed trails for horse and mule rides (few people were interested in hiking back then) and was served by toll roads that extended all the way into the valley. No railroad served Yosemite at that time, but a person living in San Francisco or Oakland could travel to Yosemite in about a day and a half if s/he was willing to endure a punishing ride on wagon roads and (prior to 1874) complete the last leg of the trip into the valley on a horse or mule. In those early days, a visit to Yosemite Valley (aka Yo-Semite Valley) was only for hardy, adventuresome people.

 

While riding trails and various other tourist-oriented enterprises opened up in Yosemite Valley during the 1860s, the valley still lacked decent lodging and related hospitality amenities as the decade drew to a close. Seeing a golden opportunity, John C. Smith constructed a building that introduced a new standard of quality when it was completed in 1871. Officially called the Cosmopolitan Bathhouse & Saloon (isn’t that a grand name?), but known simply as the Cosmopolitan, Smith’s establishment offered Yosemite visitors two prime amenities — hot or cold baths at any time of the day or night, plus a very well-stocked bar (Smith’s mint juleps were a favorite).

 

The clientele included some campers, but consisted mostly of well-heeled easterners, Californians, and foreigners lodging at the valley’s inns. All appreciated the Cosmopolitan’s special amenities, which included fine glassware, carpeted baths, full-length mirrors, delicate bath soaps, clean towels and linens, full-size billiard tables, a barber service, a ladies’ parlor, a gentlemen’s reading room, and even up-to-date newspapers. How all of the fragile stuff could have been hauled into the valley without breaking it, especially on the rugged 20-mile final approach, doubtlessly mystified many customers.

 

Yosemite Valley visitors very much needed the comforts that the Cosmopolitan offered. The visitor register that was kept on the Cosmopolitan’s porch beginning in 1873 contains liberal mention of miseries arising from dusty roads, insect bites, sick horses, foul weather, isolation, and various other afflictions. After long, wearying days of travel and sightseeing, perhaps in association with the discomforts of camping, imagine how happy Cosmopolitan customers were to have a libation to clear the dust from their throat, a bath to wash the dirt from their hide, and maybe a go at the billiards table to make them feel even more civilized.

 

By 1876, Yosemite was attracting nearly 2,000 visitors a year, most of whom stayed in the valley for several weeks at a time. At that time the valley had three nondescript inns — Black’s Hotel, Leidig’s Hotel, and the Coulter and Murphy Hotel (former Hutchings House/ Upper Hotel). The Cosmopolitan, which was located across the road from the latter, enjoyed a brisk trade. None of the valley’s rather primitive hotels offered amenities like those of the comparatively elegant Cosmopolitan. And except for the firefall (introduced by James McCauley in the 1870s), there were no significant competing diversions after the sun went down.

 

The valley’s lodging industry began shifting to a more modern footing in the 1870s and 1880s. Older structures underwent renovations and added new services. Prime examples of upgrading included the Yosemite Falls Hotel (later the Sentinel Hotel) in the Old Village area adjacent to the Cosmopolitan and the La Casa Nevada (between Vernal and Nevada Falls).

 

The Cosmopolitan remained a going concern into the early 1880s, enjoying a national reputation as a “must” stop for Yosemite Valley visitors. Many a Yosemite newbie was eager to add the Cosmopolitan to his “been there, done that” list.

 

An impressive number of impressive folks enjoyed the Cosmopolitan’s comforts. The visitor register, which is now in the Yosemite Museum, bears the comments and autographs of such notables as John Muir, Rudyard Kipling, William Randolph Hearst, Lillie Langtry, William ‘Buffalo Bill” Cody, and Presidents Ulysses S. Grant, Rutherford B. Hayes, and James Garfield. (Theodore Roosevelt signed the register in 1903, long after the Cosmopolitan closed its doors.)

 

Unfortunately, the Cosmopolitan was forced out of business after a successful run of only 13 years. The State Board of Commissioners closed it down in 1884, just six years before Congress established Yosemite National Park. The commissioners had decided that any saloon in Yosemite would have to be operated in conjunction with a hotel.

 

The building that housed the Cosmopolitan was put to other uses for nearly half a century, but finally burned down on December 8, 1932. Today, few visitors know that the Cosmopolitan ever existed.

 

Postscript: A forthcoming Traveler article will provide additional information about the Cosmopolitan’s remarkable visitor register, the Grand Register of Yo-Semite Valley.

 

Grand Canyon National Park Trails

July 17th, 2009 No comments

Multilingual exclamations of surprise and wonder spring from the lips of millions of visitors who annually arrive from all over the world to stand awestruck at the Grand Canyon’s rim. A mile deep, and more than eight miles at its widest, the Grand Canyon reveals layers of exposed limestone, shale, and sandstone walls that extend from Lees Ferry below the Glen Canyon Dam to Pearce Ferry on upper Lake Mead.

Grand Canyon

Grand Canyon

Beheld from one of its rim viewpoints, the Grand Canyon is indeed stupendous, fantastic, and awe-inspiring. Even if there were enough adjectives in English to drop one for each of the 277 miles of Colorado River plunging through the canyon’s gorge, such a string of superlatives could not capture the majesty of what it’s like to gaze into the Grand Canyon for the first time. Yet, below the rim, accessible by miles of hiking trails, there’s another canyon that very few of the five million annual visitors to Grand Canyon National Park ever see. It’s a place of high-elevation Boreal forests and low-elevation desertscapes, a landscape of rushing streams and abundant wildlife. This trail guide covers an area with over 300 miles of trails.
TRAIL GUIDE

Activity Type: Hiking
Nearby City: Flagstaff, AZ
Length: 300 total miles
Trail Type: Many Options
Skill Level: Easy to Strenuous
Trailhead Elev: 1600 feet
Top Elev: 9089 feet
Local Contacts: National Park Service
Local Maps: Grand Canyon National Park Trails Topo Map

USGS Bright Angel, Grand Canyon, Phantom Ranch, Cape Royal, Grandview Point, Bright Angel Point, Vulcans Throne, Vulcans Throne SE, Whitmore Rapids, Mount Trumbull SE 

Source; Trails.com

By Stu Marks

Shenandoah National Park

June 29th, 2009 No comments
Shenandoah National Park

Shenandoah National Park

The park is located in the Blue Ridge Mountains near Luray, VA

Shenandoah National Park, with its 101 miles of the Appalachian Trail, offers boundless outdoor adventure for your next family vacation. With over 500 miles of backpacking and hiking trails, you will find plenty of outstanding opportunities for solitude. Scenic drives take you to spectacular mountain views and allow you to travel through tree tunnels. The Blue Ridge Mountains are truly a place of beauty and wonder. Continue reading for further great Shenandoah National Park information.

Uniqueness

Shenandoah National Park lies astride a beautiful section of the Blue Ridge Mountains, which form the eastern rampart of the Appalachian Mountains between Pennsylvania and Georgia. The Shenandoah River flows through the valley to the west, with Massanutten Mountain, 40 miles long, standing between the river’s north and south forks. The rolling Piedmont country lies to the east of the park. Skyline Drive, a 105-mile road that winds along the crest of the mountains through the length of the park, provides vistas of the spectacular landscape to east and west. Drivers will pass rock cliffs, and vistas, and probably deer and other wildlife; they will drive through tunnels of trees, past wildflowers and ferns, and (in late spring) by banks of mountain laurel in bloom. 75 overlooks offer a place to stop and absorb the view and the peace. The 35-miles-per-hour speed limit allows drivers the opportunity to truly enjoy the ride and helps to ensure the safety of wildlife along the road.

The park’s wilderness areas offer outstanding opportunities for solitude and recreation. Shenandoah National Park has over 500 miles of trails, including 101 miles of the Appalachian Trail. Many trails are accessed from Skyline Drive. Some short trails lead to a waterfall or viewpoint; longer and more difficult trails penetrate deep into the forest and wilderness giving visitors the opportunity to explore and enjoy this unique resource. Camp, hike, fish, bird watch, horse back ride the 150 miles of horse trails or take photographs of nature’s wonders.

Most of Shenandoah’s landscape is forested. In the process of photosynthesis, converting light, water, and minerals into foods, green plants give off water. From a distance this air-born water creates a faint haze giving the Blue Ridge its name. Many animals, including deer, black bears, and wild turkeys, flourish among the rich growth of an oak-hickory forest. In season, bushes and wildflowers bloom along the Drive and trails and fill the open spaces. Apple trees, stone foundations, and cemeteries are reminders of the families who once called this place home.

Authorized May 22, 1926 and fully established December 26, 1935, the park’s total acreage is 197,411.60, including 79,579 acres of congressionally designated Wilderness. In 1964, the Congress of the United States passed a law known as the Wilderness Act, which created a National Wilderness Preservation System to provide an “enduring resource of wilderness” for future generations. Wilderness, according to the Wilderness Act, “…in contrast with those areas where man and his own works dominate the landscape, is hereby recognized as an area where the earth and its community of life are untrammeled by man, where man himself is a visitor who does not remain.” The Wilderness Act goes on to describe wilderness as a place “retaining its primeval character and influence” where there are “outstanding opportunities for solitude”. When the Wilderness Act established the National Wilderness Preservation System, most of the wilderness areas created under the Act were located in the west. Areas in the east, such as Shenandoah National Park, did not meet the definition of wilderness. In 1975, Congress passed the Eastern Wilderness Areas Act which aimed to include eastern wild areas, which showed signs of human use, but were now returning to a natural state, in the National Wilderness Preservation System. The Eastern Wilderness Areas Act set the stage for wilderness designation in Shenandoah National Park. At the park’s establishment, the land showed signs of human use. As time went on, nature began to reclaim the park and a wilder Shenandoah emerged.

Shenandoah National Park includes 300 square miles of the Blue Ridge Mountains in the southern Appalachians. The park rises above the Virginia Piedmont to its east and the Shenandoah Valley to its west. Two peaks exceed 4,000 feet. The range of elevation, slopes and aspects, rocks and soils, precipitation, and latitude create a mix of habitats.

Shenandoah serves as a refuge for many species of animals. There are over 200 resident and transient bird species, over 50 species of mammals, 51 reptile and amphibian species, and 30 fish species found in the park.

Those who explored the Shenandoah Valley and Blue Ridge Mountains in the early 1700s reported an abundance and variety of animals. As European settlers cleared the land, introduced domestic animals, and hunted native animals, the abundance and variety in species diminished. An unknown number of native species disappeared from the area, while populations of many other species dwindled. American bison were eliminated around 1798 and elk followed in 1855. Beaver and river otter disappeared in the late 1800s. Other species, including the eastern timber wolf, the eastern cougar, the white-tailed deer, turkey, black bear, and bobcats were either extirpated or declined drastically. Fortunately, most of these species have now returned to park either through re-introduction on lands elsewhere in Virginia or through natural population recovery. Today, Shenandoah National Park is a great place to observe wildlife. Countless visitors spend hours watching deer snip and tear plants. Other people look for tracks and scat of bobcats, listen for the rustling of raccoons in the brush, and occasionally smell striped skunks. The opossum, groundhog, gray fox, and eastern cottontail are more commonly seen mammals in the park.

Shenandoah is home to ten species of toads and frogs and fourteen species of salamanders or newts. The Shenandoah Salamander is the only federally endangered animal species found in the park. It is endemic to high elevation talus slopes located in three scattered areas of the central section of the park. This salamander is closely related to the ubiquitous red-backed salamander. There are twenty-seven species of reptiles found at Shenandoah including eighteen snakes, five turtles, three skinks, and one lizard. The park is currently supporting a number of reptile-related research efforts that are attempting to describe species associations, habitat preferences, distributions, and relative abundance of these animals.

Hardwood forests dominate the park. The forests are the result of many disturbances, some measured in geologic time, others in minutes. Remnants of boreal forests remind us that continental glaciers came near. Strands of barbed wire embedded in trunks mark the edges of former pastures. Uprooted trees show the path Tropical Storm Fran made in 1996. The park’s 70 mile length and 3500 foot elevation range create numerous habitats able to support a variety of forest cover types. Chestnut and red oak forest are common in the park, but other forest types such tulip poplar, cove hardwood, and even small areas of spruce-fir forest, may also be found when exploring the park’s peaks, steep hillsides, and sheltered stream valleys. The forests would be incomplete without the seemingly countless herb, fern, and shrub species found beneath the trees. Trillium, jack-in-the-pulpit, interrupted fern, blueberries, azaleas, and lady slipper orchids are just a few examples of the numerous smaller species that enrich the under story. Explorations into the forests of Shenandoah National Park provide tremendous opportunities for discovery to both the casual and serious botanical enthusiast.

Shenandoah National Park supports over 400 species of fungi. Edible mushrooms constitute only a small fraction of the fungus species within the park. Morels (Morchella spp.) are a popular spring edible in Shenandoah. Mushroom hunters look for them when the oak leaves are “the size of a mouse’s ear”. However, even these relatively easy to identify species need to be carefully differentiated from false morels (Gyromitria spp.) which are harmful if eaten. One of the largest of all fungi, the giant puffball (Calvatia maxima), is also found in the park. This edible fungus can grow up to 50 centimeters (20 inches) in diameter.

The mountains in Shenandoah National Park are usually 10 degrees cooler than the valley below. Winters can be severe with snow and ice, and summer showers may be sudden. Layered clothing is always suggested.

The park itself is always open, but some portions of the Skyline Drive, the only road through Shenandoah National Park, are closed from dusk to early morning during hunting season. This road also closes in inclement weather for safety reasons. Visitor facilities and services begin operating between early April and Memorial Day and close down by late November.

For camping you’ll need all the usual: tents, sleeping bags, camp stove, lantern, compass, hiking boots, rain gear, and food supplies.

Current Weather

Do not feed or interfere with the animals. They may seem even tame at times, but even a deer will defend their young and their hooves are sharp.

Entrance fees:
March through November: $8.00/ 7 days per person 16 years of age or older when entering by means other than a private, non-commercial vehicle. $15.00/ 7 days per vehicle, to $30.00 for the annual pass that covers a vehicle and family.

Camping fees run from free for backcountry camping to $16-19/ single campsites and $32/ group campsites.

There are five campgrounds that include one group campground. They are Mathews Arm Campground, Big Meadows Campground, Lewis Mountain Campground, Loft Mountain Campground, and Dundo Group Campground. Most are open spring through October, with Big Meadows open until November. Reservations are required at Bib Meadows and the Dundo Group Campgrounds.

Mathews Arm (mile 22.1) is the nearest campground for those entering the park from the north. It is next to a nature trail and the trail to Overall Run Falls, the tallest waterfall in the park. Elkwallow Wayside, with camping supplies and food service, is two miles away. Big Meadows (mile 51.2), though secluded, is near many of the major facilities and popular hiking trails in the park. Three waterfalls are within walking distance; the Meadow, with its abundant plant growth and wildlife, lies directly across the Drive. Lewis Mountain (mile 57.5), the smallest campground in the park, appeals to those who want a little more privacy without venturing deep into the backcountry. Yet it is within seven miles of the popular Big Meadows area. Loft Mountain (mile 79.5), the largest campground in the park, sits atop Big Flat Mountain with outstanding views to east and west. Two waterfalls and the trails into the Big Run Wilderness area are nearby. Dundo is a primitive campground open to groups with a minimum of 8 campers and maximum of 20. Facilities include seven large group sites, pit toilets, and water. One site has a wheelchair accessible picnic table and a raised fire grate.

Backcountry camping requires a free permit. Permits are available by mail from Park Headquarters. Write: Superintendent, Attn: Backcountry Camping Permit, US Highway 211 East, Luray, VA, 22835. Or call, (540) 999-3500, Monday through Friday, 8:00 a.m. – 4:30 p.m. EST. Permits are also available in the park at visitor centers, entrance stations, and headquarters. Prepare well. Bring a backcountry stove or no-cook food. Campfires are not permitted except at a limited number of pre-constructed fireplaces at backcountry huts and day-use shelters. Bring enough rope to hang food, toothpaste, soap, and other items that smell, at least ten feet up and four feet out from the trunk of a tree. Maximum group size is ten people. Plan to camp out of sight of the trail, other camping parties, and day-use shelters. Pets are permitted, but must be leashed at all times. Shenandoah National Park is home to large populations of black bears and other animals that can be attracted by poor camping habits. Use the “Leave no Trace” rule.

Note: Shenandoah anticipates closing the Dundo Campground sometime in July and spreading out the group campsites between Mathews Arm, Big Meadows and Loft Mountain Campground.

The closest airports are in Washington, DC, Weyers Cave, VA, and Charlottesville, VA. The four entrances to the park are at I-66 and Route 340 to the north entrance at Front Royal, Route 211 to the central entrance at Thornton Gap, Route 33 to Swift Run Gap, and I-64 to the Rockfish Gap entrance at the southern end of the park and the northern end of the Blue Ridge Parkway. Speed limit for the Skyline Drive is 35mph. Bicycles are permitted in the park on paved roads only.

Approximate Mileage from the following major cities to Shenandoah National Park:

By Car:

Harrisonburg, VA – 65.73 miles

Charlottesville, VA – 74.75 miles

Washington, VA – 18.20 miles

Morgantown, OH – 266.56 miles

Baltimore Corner, VA – 174.32 miles

Pittsburg Junction, OH – 271.17 miles

By Plane

Washington Dulles International Airport – 55.98 miles

Ronald Reagan Washington National Airport – 70.68 miles

Shenandoah Valley Regional Airport – 79.62 miles

Charlottesville-Albemarle Airport – 66.42 miles

Shenandoah National Park, 3655 U.S. Highway 211 East, Luray, VA 22835-9036

Visitor Information: 540-999-3500

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