Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve Information page 2
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The Park and Preserve are open year round. It is best to call each office prior to arrival to confirm current operational hours.
Fairbanks Headquarters: Open Monday – Friday, 8:00 a.m. – 4:30 p.m. Closed on Holidays. (907) 457-5752
Bettles Ranger Station / Visitor Center: From mid-June to Labor Day: Open 7 days a week, 8:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m. (sometimes closed noon – 1:00pm for lunch). Remainder of Year: Open Monday – Friday, 8:00 a.m. – Noon / 1:00 p.m. – 5:00 p.m. Closed on Holidays. (907) 692-5495
Coldfoot Visitor Center: Open year-round Monday-Friday, 8:00 a.m. – noon / 1:00 p.m. – 5:00 p.m. Closed on Holidays. (907) 678-4227
Arctic Interagency Visitor Center: Open Memorial Day to Labor Day, 7 days a week, 10:00 a.m. – 10:00 p.m. (907) 678-5209
Anaktuvuk Pass Ranger Station: Outside display is open year-round; call for ranger station hours. (907) 661-3520.
Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve is a wilderness designated region. Therefore there are no campgrounds, roads, established hiking or backpacking trails or other maintained visitor facilities within its boundaries. When Congress established Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve in 1980, it protected a vast and undeveloped area of superlative natural beauty and intact ecosystems.
These parklands represent a variety of ecotypes ranging from the lowland lakes and rivers of the forested south slopes across the gaunt spine of the continent to the rolling, treeless tundra of the northern foothills of the Arctic Slope. The wilderness values of this area are of paramount importance. Robert Marshall first extolled the qualities of the unmapped Central Brooks Range and the diverse inhabitants of Wiseman in the 1930s in his popular books about his sojourns and about the social structures in this isolated region causing it to become a landscape of inspiration for people around the world. Two sites within Gates of the Arctic were designated national natural landmarks in April 1968—Arrigetch Peaks (37,400 acres) and Walker Lake (181,120 acres). The entire Noatak River drainage, of which the headwaters are in Gates of the Arctic, is internationally recognized as a biosphere reserve in the United Nations’ “Man in the Biosphere” program.
Taken in a regional context, the park is a centerpiece in nearly 35 million acres of protected areas spanning the 700 mile expanse of the Brooks Range. Ten small communities are within the subsistence resident zone for the park and are home to approximately 1,500 residents. Many of these residents continue to depend on resources within the park to sustain a subsistence way of life and maintain cultural traditions. For the Nunamiut Eskimos of Anaktuvuk Pass, the Kobuk Eskimos, and the northern-most Koyukon Indians the hunt continues. Their cultures are still rooted in traditional subsistence ways of life; their hunting and fishing places are respected within the parkland. Subsistence activities occur throughout the year and expand significantly with the relative ease of overland travel in the winter months.
Northern Alaska is not the trackless wilderness that many people perceive it to be. Humans have continuously explored and lived in the region and used its resources for more than 12,500 years. It was across the Bering Land Bridge and later across the strait itself that groups of people entered northwest Alaska. For untold centuries it has been the homeland of Athapaskan and Inupiat people who used resources and occupied the land in a manner that preserved its integrity for the benefit of all Americans now and in the future.
The earliest traces of human occupation in the central Brooks Range are still somewhat controversial. Artifacts from the Brooks Range, similar to those found in Paleo-Indian sites of temperate North America which contain the remains of extinct mammoths and bison, have led some to argue for an ancient Indian tradition over 12,000 years in age. Other archeologists believe these finds to be later in time, or only about 8,000 years old. The Putu site, located just northeast of the park and estimated to be over 11,000 years old, may be an example of a Paleo-Indian site in the vicinity of the park and preserve.
The controversy aside, the first demonstrable use of the area is by people of the American Paleo-Arctic tradition, which probably has its origins in northern Asia. They were nomadic hunters and gatherers, living off the land and traveling in small groups. Unlike many later groups, these early people did not depend on sea mammal hunting for their subsistence, but hunted caribou and other land animals. Northern Alaskan examples of this tradition include the Akmak and Kobuk assemblages from the Onion Portage site on the Kobuk River that are between 7,800 and 9,600 years old, and an assemblage from the Galagher Flint Station, just northeast of the park, that is 10,500 years old.
The next wave of people apparently moved into northern Alaska from the forested regions to the south and east. These Northern Archaic people arriving about 6,500 years ago, had a distinctively different material culture, and apparently depended on caribou and fishing in rivers and streams for their livelihood, staying inland and near the trees most of the time. Many archeologists believe that these people represent an Indian culture rather than an Eskimo culture.
At Onion Portage the Northern Archaic tradition persists from 6,000 to 4,200 years ago. Within the park the Tuktu-Naiyuk site (near Anaktuvuk Pass), with radiocarbon dates from 6,500 years ago is a site from this time. Elsewhere within the unit, undated sites relating to the Northern archaic tradition have been found along the upper Kobuk and the North Fork of the Koyukuk rivers, Kurupa Lake, and others.
About 4,200 years ago, arctic-oriented cultures again appeared in northern Alaska. Either a new wave of people or new ideas came into Alaska from Asia. The Arctic Small Tool tradition, so named because of their finely made stone tools, was a dynamic one, adapting to make efficient use of a wide range of arctic resources. The earliest culture of this tradition spread as far south as Bristol Bay and as far eastward as Greenland, occupying interior and coastal areas. These people moved throughout the arctic over a long time span (the tradition lasted over 1,000 years). They were adept at the use of both the coast and the interior.
The earliest of these cultures, the Denbigh Flint complex, lasted at Onion Portage from 4,200 to 3,800 years ago, while at Mosquito Lake, just northeast of the park, it has been dated at about 2,200 years. The Ipiutak complex, the last complex of the Arctic Small Tool tradition, is represented at sites as Itkillik Lake and near Anaktuvuk Pass and continued until about 1,500 years ago.
By about 1,000 years ago, with the development of the Western Thule culture, the beginnings of modern Eskimo culture became visible in the archeological record. Over the centuries, these people learned to fully exploit both the resources of the coast and the interior. They spread across the arctic, eventually reaching as far eastward as Greenland and Labrador and as far south as the Alaska Peninsula. Local specializations developed. The people who lived along the coast of the Arctic Ocean were the Northern Maritime culture, while those who lived along the Noatak and Kobuk rivers are named the Arctic Woodland culture. The group that lived mostly in the interior part of the northern Alaska—in the Brooks Range and on the North Slope—is called the Arctic Tundra culture.
Within the park area, the historic Nunamiut Eskimos were the descendants of these groups. They spent most of their time in the mountains and on the tundra. However, they maintained cultural ties, through extensive travel and trading, with other groups in northern Alaska.
Athabaskan peoples have inhabited the south side of the Brooks Range and central Alaska for at least a thousand years. Several times in those centuries Athabaskan groups have moved into the Brooks Range. In historic times, such groups as the Dihai Kutchin also lived in the central Brooks Range and on its southern flanks.
Thus, the park and preserve contain archeological sites representative of every cultural tradition known in northern Alaska. This important record will be expanded in the coming years, providing a more complete understanding of the complicated history of human use of the region.
In 1850 the central Brooks Range was still largely isolated from influences from European and Euro-American culture. Kobuk Eskimos and Koyukon and Kutchin Athabaskans made seasonal journeys into the area from the Kobuk, Koyukuk, and Chandalar River basins. Principal native activities within the area were hunting and fishing, which followed the seasonal movement of game and fish. Trading among these coastal people along travel routes allowed cultural exchange and the exchange of inland and coastal products, particularly caribou skins and seal oil. What is now Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve was an area of shifting cultural boundaries and periodic migrations to richer river and coastal environments when game concentrations shifted.
In the mid-1880s American explorers began probing the central Brooks Range. In 1885 and 1886, Lt. G.M. Stoney and the U.S. Navy’s expedition ascended the Kobuk River and explored the western and central Brooks Range, traveling near Anaktuvuk Pass. Lt. John Cantwell’s Revenue Marine Service expedition explored the region via Kobuk and Noatak rivers at the same time. The first white men to enter the Koyukuk River drainage north of the Arctic Circle were Lt. Henry Allen and Pvt. Fred Fickett of the U.S. Army in 1885. In some cases, native people guided these explorers. Allen’s expedition resulted in the beginning of prospecting on the Upper Koyukuk River. Gold was discovered in paying quantities at Tramway Bar on the Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River in 1893. Trading posts and riverboats began to appear on the mid-reaches of the Koyukuk, and the stage was set for the gold rushes of 1898, which overflowed from the Klondike to the Kobuk and Koyukuk rivers. In sequence, “Old Bettles”, Coldfoot, and Wiseman became established mining and trading camps. For the next three decades miners scoured the southern flanks of the central Brooks Range with varying success. A marginal lobe of mining activity centered on the North Fork of the Koyukuk and its tributary Glacier River within the southeastern sector of what is now the national park.
These placer workings were relatively unimportant compared to those on the Middle and South Forks of the Koyukuk and the upper Chandalar just to the east.
Also, around the turn of the century, prospectors reached the area of the Noatak River headwaters. Records of miners are left in place names of the region, such as Midas and Lucky Six creeks. These names were based on hope rather than results because no worthwhile gold strikes were ever made in the area.
Cabins from the various waves of miners and trappers who followed provide the few tangible historic resources of the park area. Most have been rendered to ruins by time and weather. To date, numerous ruins have been identified as well as two sanding cabins, the Yale cabin on the Glacier River built by a prospector and the Vincent Knorr cabin on Mascot Creek, a carefully constructed early miner’s cabin.
The flurry of mining activity triggered a series of significant U.S. Geological Survey expeditions. Beginning with the F.C. Gerdine expedition in the Chandalar/Koyukuk region in 1899, a heroic tradition of surface transits of the central Brooks Range was established by the leading field men of the Geological Survey. Mendenhall, Maddren, Mertie, and P.S. Smith are only a few of those who, with Schrader and Gerdine, mark this period of scientific exploration. Paralleling the geographic, geologic, and mineral studies and mapping of the Geological Survey, the work of noted biologists, such as the Murie brothers, and later anthropological studies furthered the scientific tradition in this vast mountain laboratory.
A profound event in the Brooks Range was the exploratory saga of Robert Marshall. Beginning in 1929 he joined some of the old hands in extensive explorations into the North Fork country and, at the mountain portal leading to the inner recesses of the range, bestowed the name Gates of the Arctic. Based largely on information gathered from local informant, he wrote popular books about his sojourns and about the social structures in this isolated region. More than this, Marshall employed a philosophy and a literature of ultimate wilderness for the central Brooks Range. His work and perceptions over an intense decade before his early death influenced the development of wilderness preservation ideals in America and the creation of Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve.
The boundary of the National Park and Preserve includes about 8.2 million acres of public land with approximately 7.2 million acres designated as wilderness. Contiguous with the 5.6 million acres of designated wilderness in the Noatak National Preserve to the west, this rugged landscape is one of the world’s largest protected areas. Taken in a regional context, the park is a centerpiece in nearly 35 million acres of protected areas spanning the 700 mile expanse of the Brooks Range.
The central Brooks Range is a remote area of rugged, glaciated east-trending ridges that rise to elevations of 8,500 feet. The range is part of the Rocky Mountain system that stretches completely across the northern part of Alaska. Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve spreads across three land classifications: Arctic Foothills, Arctic Mountains, and Western Alaska. Two primary mountain ranges make up the central Brooks Range—the Endicott and Schwatka Mountains. Uplift, erosion, and heavy glaciations account for the rugged mountain profiles and U-shaped valleys evident today. Metamorphic rocks, primarily quartz mica schist and chloritic schist, belt the south flank of the range. There are also a few small bodies of marble and dolomites. Granitic intrusion created the rugged Arrigetch Peaks and Mt. Igikpak areas. The primary metallic minerals found within the region include copper, gold, lead, and zinc. The major known deposits of minerals occur in a schist belt that generally lies south and west of the park in the Ambler mining district and may extend into the park. The only known mineral produced in the park is gold. Placer mines operated historically in the Nolan-Hammond River areas near Wiseman, the North Fork, Wild Lake, and Mascot Creek. There has also been some limited gold production in the Noatak River drainage near Midas Creek.
Four major glaciations have been recognized within this region of the Brooks Range. The first glaciation (Anaktuvuk River) took place more than one-half million years ago. The second (Sagavanirktok River) is thought to be broadly equivalent to the Illinoian glaciation of central North America. The last two glacial periods (Itkillik and Walker Lake) are thought to correlate with the Wisconsin advance in central North America. Glaciers were generated at relatively high altitudes near the crest of the range during the more extensive glaciations. Ice flowed from these sources southward through the major valley systems to terminate at and beyond the south flank of the range. Most all-terminal moraines created natural dams that allowed the forming of large lakes along the southern foothills.
The northern portion of the park has petroliferous rocks within drilling depths. The principal reservoir rock in this area is the upper Paleozoic Lilburn formation. There are some potentially large hydrocarbon-bearing structures north of the range front, and petroleum may also exist in Cretaceous or Devonian formations.
The paleontological resources of Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve consist of small fossils of invertebrates, shells, and corals found in the metamorphosed rocks of the Brooks Range. A few plant fossils have been found in sandstones near the divide. Most of these fossils are inconspicuous and difficult to identify. The value of these fossils is largely scientific. They have been examined and collected by scientists, particularly by members of the U.S. Geological Survey, over the past 30 years. They provide information useful in dating rocks and establishing the geological sequence related to life forms.
Permafrost, or ground that remains frozen for more than two years, lies under virtually all of the park and preserve. Atop the permafrost lies a thin layer of ground that thaws during the summer. This thin mantle, ranging from 6 inches to several feet in depth, supports plants that tend to hold the thawing soil in place, or at least slow and modify its movement. Solifluction (soil creep) is common, even on moderate slopes.
Tributaries of four major river systems originate in the park and preserve. To the north the Nigu, Killik, Chandler, Anaktuvuk, and Itkillik rivers drain to the Colville River. The Noatak River flows west and the Kobuk River southwest, both from the headwaters in the western part of the park. The John, Alatna and North Fork of the Koyukuk rivers drain south to the Yukon. There are only a few small glaciers in the park, so the rivers normally run clear except after rains and during spring breakup.
The Alatna River was dedicated a wild and scenic river on December 2, 1980. The main stem of the river lies within Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve. It drains the central Brooks Range. Wildlife viewing, spectacular scenery and interesting geologic features abound along the river corridor. The John River was dedicated a wild and scenic river on December 2, 1980. Flowing south from Anaktuvuk Pass through Alaska’s Brooks Range it terminates at the Koyukuk River just below Bettles Field/Evansville. The valley of the John River is an important migration route for the Arctic caribou herd. From its headwaters in the Endicott Mountains and Walker Lake, the Kobuk River courses south and west through a wide valley and passes through two scenic canyons. It has one of largest concentrations of sheefish and one of the largest continuous spruce forest areas in the Brooks Range. The Noatak River drains the largest mountain ringed river basin in America that is still virtually unaffected by human activities. The North Fork of the Koyukuk flows from the south flank on the Arctic Divide through broad, glacially carved valleys in the rugged Endicott Mountains of the Central Brooks Range. It passes between the “Gates of the Arctic” at Boreal Mountain and Frigid Crags. The Tinayguk is the largest tributary of the North Fork of the Koyukuk.
Three warm springs are located within the park and preserve. The Reed River spring is located near the headwaters of the Reed River and had a measured water temperature of 122ºF at the warmest pool (NPS, USDI 1982). A warm spring is also located on the lower Kugrak River and another near the Alatna River.
Alluvial deposits are the principal aquifers for groundwater, which is greatly restricted by permafrost. When under pressure from frost, groundwater bursts to the surface in places, forming conical hills of mud and debris called pingos. Examples of these can be seen in the upper valley of the North Fork of the Koyukuk and the upper Noatak River Valley.
Three major vegetation associations occur in the park and preserve—the taiga (boreal forest), tundra and shrub thicket. Alpine and moist tundra are the most extensive vegetation types. The taiga reaches its northernmost limit along the southern flanks of the Brooks Range within the park.
Alpine tundra communities occur in mountainous areas and along well-drained rocky ridges. The soils tend to be coarse, rocky, and dry. A community of low, mat-forming heather vegetation is characteristic of much of the area. Exposed outcrops of talus sustain sparse islands of cushion plants, such as moss campion and saxifrage, interspersed with lichens. The low-growth forms of these plants protect them from snow and sand abrasion in this windswept environment. Other important plants include dryas, willows, heather, lichens, and especially reindeer lichens. Grasses, sedges, and herbs are also present.
The taiga, or boreal forest, reaches its northern limit at about latitude 67º30′N along the river valleys of the south slope of the Brooks Range. The extensive forest cover found south of the mountains thins into scattered stands of spruce mixed with hardwoods that follow the river valleys north into the mountains to an elevation of about 2,100 feet. This spruce-hardwood forest takes two forms. White spruce usually in association with scattered birch or aspen is commonly found on moderate south-facing slopes. Heaths, such as bearberry, crowberry, Labrador tea, blueberry, and cranberry are common as are willows. Lichens and mosses cover the forest floor along with a variety of herbs. Some large, pure stands of white spruce occur along rivers such as the Kobuk and balsam poplar are also found in such areas. On the north-facing slopes and on poorly drained lowlands, black spruce is predominant. These trees, which grow very slowly, are usually stunted and often scattered. It is not uncommon to find a 2-inch diameter tree that is 100 years old. The under story in these areas is spongy moss and low brush.
As the tree line is approached, the forest thins out until spruce are scattered among the shrub thicket community. In one type of shrub thicket, dwarf and resin birch, willows and alder may be extremely dense or open and interspersed with reindeer lichens, low heath-type shrubs, or patches of alpine tundra. Alder is usually found on moister sites and birch on drier sites. Such shrub thickets typically occur up to 3,000 feet in elevation. A second type of shrub thicket association occurs along the alluvial plain and gravel bars of braided or meandering streams. Willows and alders predominate and are associated with dwarf fireweed, horsetails, prickly rose, and other herbs and shrubs. These thickets develop rapidly in floodplains that are newly exposed after breakup and spring flooding.
Arctic tundra can be divided into two main groups, dry and moist. Dry tundra is dominated by mat-forming shrubs, and is commonly found on higher, well drained “terraces”. While showing reasonable resistance to recreational use, dry tundra is still considered fragile, and susceptible to damage with moderate use. Moist tundra is found in low-lying, poorly drained areas where the permafrost is close to the surface, in the foothills and in pockets of moderately drained soils on hillsides and along river valleys. Moist tundra is often dominated by a variety of sedges such as tussock cottongrass 6-10 inches high. Tussocks form as a Cottongrass clump, which grows then, dies back each year, accumulating dead leaves that decompose slowly in the cold temperatures. Mosses and lichens grow in the moist channels between the tussocks. Other plants include grasses, small shrubs (dwarf birch, willow, and Labrador tea), and a few herbs. The soils underlying moist tundra are easily reduced to muck by foot or vehicle traffic.
Recreational visitors make their way into the park and preserve annually to float rivers, base camp on remote lakes or backpack through countless passes connecting drainages. Backcountry visitors stay for an average of 11 days during the long hours of light from June through September. Generally, these small, self-sufficient groups rely on bush planes with highly skilled pilots to drop them off and pick them up. Use increases in the autumn in the two preserve units where general hunting and angling is allowed. Winter recreational trips are a rarity and tend to occur from mid-February to May with the return of the sun.
There are six wild rivers in the park, giving you ample opportunities for wilderness area exploration and loads of adventure travel. The Alatna River was dedicated a wild and scenic river and offers wildlife, spectacular scenery and interesting geologic features along the river corridor. The John River, also a wild and scenic river, offers family float stream, excellent hiking and backpacking in upper river area and wildlife viewing. The Kobuk River is an exceptional float river for canoeing or kayaking, with a few short stretches of extremely rugged rapids (up to class V); has good opportunities for sport hunting (in Preserve only); wildlife observation and backpacking; one of largest concentrations of sheefish for superb Alaska fishing opportunities; wintering grounds for Western Arctic caribou herd; and one of the largest continuous spruce forest areas in the Brooks Range. One of the longest designated wild rivers in Alaska, the Noatak River has good floating/boating, sightseeing, and wildlife viewing opportunities. The North Fork of the Koyukuk offers outstanding wilderness backpacking; clear water and challenging whitewater rafting and kayaking; and is a major caribou migration route. The Tinayguk is the largest tributary of the North Fork of the Koyukuk. Both lie entirely within the pristine environment of Gates of the Arctic National Park. High potential for hiking and backpacking trips exists, although access is more difficult than North Fork of Koyukuk.
Sport hunting for moose along the Kobuk River in the preserve is becoming a more popular activity. Hunters gain access by air or boat. Dall sheep are widespread throughout the mountainous alpine areas of the park and preserve. Recreational fishing is primarily for arctic grayling, arctic char, sheefish, and lake trout.
Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve offers a unique arctic environment to study climatic shifts, geologic processes, and more recently human caused factors such as air and water pollution, introduced and exotic species and the role of fire in a natural environment. In addition, because the region is so remote and inaccessible, the major routes people use for access and transportation provide opportunities to study the recovery of disturbed lands.
Interior Alaska is a lightning fire region. Wildfire plays an important role in maintaining a variety of habitats. Successional plant communities, which are beneficial for wildlife habitat and diversity, are induced by fire. Fire also plays a role in recycling nutrients. The successional stages that follow a fire vary, depending primarily on topography, seed source, severity of the burn, and moisture. Generally, successional stages following a fire include pioneer species such as fireweed, Labrador tea, willows and alders, followed by quaking aspen on upland, south facing slopes, paper birch on east- or west-facing slopes, and balsam poplars on the river plain. Eventually the white or black spruce association will invade and begin to dominate. The recovery rate of the boreal forest zone is relatively slow, spruce and reindeer lichen may require 100-150 years to recover. The forests within the park boundaries are not considered commercially valuable. Trees are occasionally harvested under permit for house logs, and local residents cut firewood.
In 2002, field surveys were conducted to look for exotic vascular plant species in Alaska National Park units. The National Park Service (NPS) defines exotic species as those occurring in a given area as a result of human actions (Densmore et. al 2001). These species are of concern to the NPS because they can out-compete native species, thereby altering the natural landscape, decreasing biodiversity, degrading habitats for native flora and fauna, and jeopardizing the genetic integrity of the affected parks (Allen and Hansen 1999). The purpose of the current study is to survey areas of current or historical human use within Alaska National Parks and compile a database of the locations and identities of any exotic vascular plants encountered in these areas.
While comprehensive data have not been collected in this region, the air quality of the park and preserve and surrounding area is generally considered excellent. Smoke from forest and tundra fires can degrade air quality from June to August.
Although the average summer temperatures can be quite mild, it can snow at any time of the year in the Brooks Range. The month of August is usually the rainy season. The central Brooks Range has long severe winters and relatively short cool summers. The south side of the Brooks Range below 2,500 feet is generally a sub-arctic climate zone. Precipitation is low, averaging 12-18 inches in the west and 8-12 inches in the east. Snow falls 8 to 9 months of the year, averaging 60-80 inches. The average maximum and minimum July temperatures are 70ºF and 46ºF, respectively. Thunderstorm activity is common during June and July, and June through September is the wettest time of year. Prevailing winds are out of the north. Average maximum and minimum January temperatures are -10ºF and -30ºF.
The north side of the Brooks Range has an arctic climate. Mean annual temperatures are colder than on the south side. Maximum and minimum February temperatures range from 33ºF to -47ºF. The warmest month, July, has 60ºF maximum and 40ºF minimum. Precipitation is extremely light, about 5-10 inches a year, making this essentially an “arctic desert.” Snow has been recorded in every month of the year, and the annual average is 45 inches. Prevailing winds from the east in summer and west in winter are greatly modified by local terrain.
With the remoteness and no facilities within the park each visitor must be well prepared and self sufficient. Equipment, supplies, and even emergency services may not be available. Wilderness skills are essential. In many areas of the park it may be weeks before you encounter another person. Planning your route is an important part of your adventure. The Brooks Range is a vast area and will require you to spend some time with topographic maps planning your trip. Leave your specific itinerary (including a complete description of gear carried and skill levels) with a dependable person before venturing into the wilderness. Be prepared for emergencies and for radical changes in the weather. Always carry enough food for extra days because inclement weather can delay air service. You should allow for extra time and alternate itineraries; you could conceivably wait days for decent flying weather. Your guide/air taxi operator can provide you with options, and help you formulate realistic plans and expectations.
Make certain that your equipment is sturdy and functional, and that you have adequate field repair kits. First aid knowledge and supplies are a must. Signaling devices such as smoke flares, mirrors, strobes, or signal cloths should be carried for emergencies. If you carry a ground to air radio or personal emergency locating device, realize that they are to be used in serious emergencies only. Personal Emergency Locator Beacons (PELBs) are available for sale or rent in Anchorage and Fairbanks but are quite pricey. The device that has proven most useful over the years (here and in other remote regions around Alaska) is the least technologically advanced – the signal mirror. This along with ground markings (rocks, tarps, clothing, etc. spelling HELP or SOS) will most likely be seen by pilots flying through the area. An air-to-ground radio is a device that enables communication with a pilot in your area. Some air-taxi services provide these to their clients to allow them to speak with their pilot on the day of pick-up or in an EMERGENCY situation. These are not intended for casual conversation with pilots flying through the area. During the extended periods of 24-hour sunlight or in heavy overcast skies, flares have not always proven to be visible to pilots flying overhead. At present, only limited means of technologically advanced communication work effectively in the backcountry. Cell phones do not work in Gates of the Arctic National Park & Preserve. Leave your specific itinerary (including a complete description of gear carried and skill levels) with a dependable person before venturing into the wilderness. Let them know when you return from your trip. Inform your air taxi operator how to reach your emergency contact if necessary.
Tree growth in the Arctic is very slow; a spruce tree only inches in diameter may be hundreds of years old. In some areas wood may be scarce or nonexistent. Because of this, gas or propane stoves for cooking are strongly recommended. A gas or propane stove is also good for emergencies since it is easy to light. If you need an open fire, it should be built on exposed inorganic soil. Fire at other locations will kill the vegetation and create long-lasting scars. Only dead and downed wood should be burned. Avoid using rocks to construct fire rings. All traces of the fire should be erased before you leave. Remove all bits of foil, wire and other unburned materials from the ashes and pack them out. All ashes and charcoal should be deposited in the main current of a river if possible. A fire pan can be easily carried and it will prevent fire scars. If these steps are taken, others will not be attracted to camp repeatedly at the same location, allowing the site to recover.
In the backcountry you could also use this backpacking list: compass, GPS, tent, a warm sleeping bag, campstove, fuel, good hiking boots, warm, layered clothing (not cotton), cooking and eating utensils, water, or tablets to treat water if you are not going to boil it for one minute, flashlight if traveling when there is area darkness, good quality backpack, rain gear, waterproof bags for supplies, multiuse tool, knife, extra set of clothes, incase you get wet, matches, garbage bags, hiking rope, topographical maps, extra food as already mentioned, sunglasses, and if hiking into the mountains, ice axe or snow shoes.
The mosquitoes are out in large numbers from mid-June to mid-August. Other pesky insects can be around throughout September. The entire region receives continuous sunlight during the summer for at least 30 days. Conversely, winter residents and visitors will experience long periods of darkness and twilight. Mosquito head nets and repellent are strongly suggested.
Carry a collapsible water jug to cut down on trips for water, thereby reducing trail formation. Bathe and wash dishes at least 100 feet from sources of drinking water and use biodegradable soaps. Water may contain Giardia lamblia, or other intestinal parasites. It is recommended that you drink only boiled, filtered or chemically treated water.
Human feces carry harmful micro-organisms. Bury feces at least 200 feet from all potential water sources. To promote decomposition, choose a site in organic soil. Dig a small hole 6 to 8 inches deep. After use, bury completely and replace the tundra. Mosses, leaves, and snow make for natural toilet papers. All paper products, including feminine hygiene products should be packed out or burned.
Arctic tundra can be divided into two main groups, dry and moist. Dry tundra is dominated by mat-forming shrubs, and is commonly found on higher, well drained “terraces”. These areas can attract significant recreation since they provide easier walking and better camping than the heavily tussocked moist tundra. While showing reasonable resistance to recreational use, dry tundra is still considered fragile, and susceptible to damage with moderate use. Moist tundra is found in low-lying, poorly drained areas where the permafrost is close to the surface. Moist tundra is often dominated by a variety of sedges such as tussock cottongrass. The soils underlying moist tundra are easily reduced to muck by foot or vehicle traffic. The practice of Leave No Trace principles is essential to minimizing impacts to the tundra regions of northern Alaska. Travel and camp on durable surfaces and properly dispose of waste (pack it in, pack it out). The cumulative impact of large groups on the environment is especially noticeable and lasting in Arctic eco-systems. A group of 4 to 6 people strikes a good balance between safety and environmental concerns. Hike on existing trails to minimize disturbance to soil and vegetation. Avoid multiple trail formation. If no trails exist, a group should travel in a fan pattern whenever possible. Above all, leave your trail unmarked.
The lakes at the various put in and take out points of float trips are receiving heavy camping use (Twelvemile Slough, Portage Lake, Nelson Walker Lake, Pingo Lake and Lake Matcharak). Vegetation around the lakes is being destroyed and the impact is detracting from the area’s wild character. After arriving, move directly to the river to camp on gravel bars. Use existing trails between lakes and the river. Do not build fires on the tundra.
When crossing rivers, use the following precautions. First, plan well, by choosing a careful route and a good technique. Stream currents are swift and cold and the water level can rise significantly within a few hours, making a slow stream an impassable torrent. Silt carried in the rivers can prevent a clear view of the obstacles along the bottom. Second, pick a route through the widest channels or where there are many channels instead of just one. As water disperses it’ll run more slowly and shallow out. Spend time walking up and downstream, or climbing to a high point, in order to find a crossing site suitable for the entire group. Thirdly, watch the water’s surface while choosing a route, since this may offer the most reliable information about depth and riverbed composition. Do not cross through standing waves. There the bottom is uneven and water is deep. Do cross where there are small, closely spaced ripples. There the water is shallow over a smooth bottom. Keep in mind that Brooks Range rivers are often deeper after the warmest part of the day due to melting of snow pack high in the mountains. Next, check your choice by throwing big rocks into the water. A hollow “ka-thump” sounds in deep water. If the rock moves downstream before sinking to the bottom, or if submerged rocks can be heard rolling downstream, the current may be too swift to cross at that point. Finally, always include an option for a retreat back to shore should the crossing become too difficult. Never over commit yourself to one route. Seal all essential items, such as dry clothing and sleeping bags, in watertight, plastic bags. Do not cross barefoot or in socks alone! Shoes protect your feet from rocks, and allow you to hop along with the current. Release the waist and sternum belts of your pack. Should you fall, you must be able to jettison the pack before it fills up with water and drags you down. As you cross, remember to keep your eyes on the far shore. You may become dizzy if you look down at the water. Solo crossings are not recommended; however, if you have no other options, cross downstream at an angle using a long, sturdy stick for support. Although an un-bridged river presents many challenges, it is also part of true wilderness hiking.
Private land and cabins are scattered throughout Alaskan parks and refuges. Though travel may be through remote country, you may encounter private property. Cabins, caches, trap lines and fishnets should be respected and not disturbed. Check with the land manager of the area you are visiting for land status. You may also encounter prehistoric or historic sites. These sites usually hold great significance for the local Native people. Respect their heritage and leave the site undisturbed. During your trip in the Arctic, you will most likely visit rural communities. Invasion of community privacy is a concern of many rural residents. Be sensitive to local lifestyle activities. Ask before photographing.
Natural objects of beauty or interest, such as antlers or fossils, should be left for others to discover and enjoy. Antlers also provide an important calcium source for small mammals. It is illegal to remove most natural objects, including plants and flowers, from any National Park Service lands. And items that may look old to you (e.g. traps, tools, firepots, etc.) may actually be used by local residents or have cultural significance.
The wildlife of Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve is representative of northern Alaska and the Brooks Range. Species are relatively few, and their populations are frequently low compared to numbers in more temperate regions. The populations of some animals such as lynx and hare are characterized by ups and downs called cycles. These may be annual or spread over several years. There are no known endangered wildlife species within the park and preserve.
The parkland’s broad scope is essential for perpetuation of its primitive character, its far-ranging wildlife, and the fragile veneer of vegetation–nourished by a thin mantle of frost-based soil. Thousands of migrating caribou sift through the mountain passes. The lichens upon which the caribou feed may take decades to grow an inch, so these animals must constantly migrate to conserve their own range. Twice each year the caribou respond to almost imperceptible forces that trigger their nomadic instincts-the length of the days and the texture of snow crust. Calf survival depends upon precisely timed arrival of the pregnant females at Arctic Slope calving grounds just then bursting with nutritious cotton grass. The parkland is also prime habitat for wolves, grizzlies, and Dall sheep. The howling chorus, the plate-sized paw print on the river bar, the white flecks of white on distant slope continually reminds one of elusive life all around. Birds from Europe, South America, Asia, Africa and tropic archipelagos congregate here to breed and nest in summers’ rushing moments providing bountiful bird watching material for a brief period of time.
A total of 36 species of mammals occur within the park, ranging in size from voles and lemmings to brown bears and moose. Singing, tundra, and red-backed voles and brown and collared lemmings are some of the smaller rodents found here. Larger rodents include the arctic ground squirrel and Alaskan marmot. Marten and lynx are mostly limited to the forested areas in the southern half of the park, while beaver, mink, and river otter are present but limited by a scarcity of suitable aquatic habitats. Red foxes, including the silver, black and cross fox color phases, occur throughout the area, and arctic foxes occur occasionally in the northernmost parts of the park. Wolverines are present throughout. The most important species trapped by subsistence users within the park are marten, lynx, beaver, fox, and wolf.
Wolves occur throughout the park and preserve, traveling in packs of family groups as they hunt. The main prey of wolves in the central Brooks Range and on the arctic slope is caribou; however, other prey species may be used extensively if caribou are not available, principally Dall sheep, small mammals, moose, snowshoe hare, and beaver.
Brown bears (barren-ground grizzlies) occur throughout the park and preserve. They are among the earth’s largest predators, but in the Brooks Range they feed mostly as vegetarians, eating berries, sedges, hedysarum, and other plants. They also feed on small mammals and may spend hours excavating ground squirrel burrows, locally disrupting much of the ground surface in the pursuit of their prey. The bears will kill moose calves and caribou fawns and occasionally adults. Some scavenging also occurs. Brown bear populations concentrate along most of the major streams and rivers within the park. Although brown bears range through all habitat types, they are most commonly found in open alpine or tundra habitats. Black bears, which are more common in the southern-forested regions, have similar food habitats and behavior. Black bears are creatures of opportunity when it comes to matters of food. Upon emergence from hibernation in the spring, freshly sprouted green vegetation is the main food item, but black bears will readily take anything they encounter. Things such as winterkilled animals are readily eaten, but carrion is apparently taken only if little else is available. As summer progresses, feeding shifts to salmon, if they are available. In areas without salmon, bears rely primarily on vegetation throughout the year. Berries, especially blueberries, are an important late summer-fall food item. Bears are cannibalistic on occasion.
Moose, Dall sheep, and caribou are the three ungulate mammals occurring in the area. Moose are most common in the forested regions south of the range, but their range extends up mountain valleys into the larger northern drainages wherever trees and shrubs provide food and winter habitat. In summer moose frequently move into alpine habitat, but they are uncommon at the crest of the range. Dall sheep are widespread throughout the mountainous alpine areas of the park and preserve. Rugged terrain with cliffs, steep slopes and rocky outcrops are essential escape habitat. Mineral licks are seasonally very important, and the sheep may travel some distance to reach a lick site. Sheep find critical winter forage on windblown ridges where the snow has been blown away, leaving the vegetation exposed.
Caribou of the western arctic herd today range over the entire region. The herd migrates through the park and preserve as it moves from wintering grounds south and west of the park to calving areas northwest of the park and to summer range north of the park. Some of the animals use summer range along the northern reaches of the park, and some winter in the southern part of the park, especially in the Kobuk River valley. Spring movement to summer ranges begins in March, when bands of females travel northward up the Alatna, John, and North Fork of the Koyukuk drainages, and cross the summit of the Brooks Range into the valleys of such rivers as the Killik, Chandler, and Anaktuvuk, which they follow or cross in a generally westward movement to calving grounds at the head of the Utukok and Colville Rivers. Males and some yearlings begin moving somewhat later. After calving in late May, the animals join increasingly larger groups to move to higher country on the North Slope and in the foothills of the Brooks Range. Once there they gradually disperse, using summer range from the Arctic Ocean to the summits of the Brooks Range by late July. A southward drifting of caribou begins in August, and in the park it is directed toward the Anaktuvuk Pass and Killik River areas. Migration continues through the rut in October, until the wintering grounds are reached. Caribou have historically played an important role in human survival in arctic regions. Subsistence users still rely heavily on caribou.
A total of 133 species of birds have been observed in the park and preserve over the past 25-30 years, making bird watching a legitimate pastime here. Nearly half of those recorded are normally associated with aquatic habitats. Raptors inhabiting the park include species of eagles, hawks, falcons, and owls, three jaegers, and the northern shrike. Because of their place high in the food chain, raptors are more susceptible to environmental disturbance and population fluctuations. Arctic peregrine falcons, a threatened species only recently removed from the endangered list, nest in the area.
The fish populations in arctic waters, although seemingly abundant, have very low growth rates and productivity, and are therefore highly susceptible to over fishing. The most widespread species in the park and preserve is the arctic grayling, which is found in nearly all permanent watercourses and those lakes that have an outlet stream. Lake trout, northern pike, arctic char, whitefish, sheefish, salmon, long-nosed sucker, burbot, nine-spined stickleback, and slimy sculpin also occur. The Kobuk and Koyukuk Rivers are the major chum salmon spawning streams. Sheefish also spawn in the Kobuk. These fish, along with the whitefish, are the most important subsistence fishes. Some lake trout and arctic char are also taken from lakes for subsistence use.
The bears of the Brooks Range are wild creatures, free to behave as they wish. If annoyed or surprised, these solitary animals can be dangerous to intruders. Be alert at all times, in all places. Bears are active both day and night and can be found anywhere. Watch for their tracks and scat, as well as diggings and carcasses they may be feeding upon. See the Wildlife Precautions page. Report all bear encounters and incidents to a park ranger. Park rangers and biologists need this information to document bear behavior for research and management purposes. Firearms should never be used as an alternative to common sense and sound bear avoidance principle. They are to be used for protection only as a last resort when an attack is imminent. Bears will sometime approach to within 10 feet before turning and running away. It is legal to shoot a bear in defense of life or property in Alaska ONLY if you have made efforts to avoid problems in the first place. Note: In the event a bear is killed for self-protection, you are responsible for ending your planned itinerary and transporting the skull and properly skinned hide to the State of Alaska. Further information on these regulations is available from the Alaska Dept. of Fish & Game.
There is no fee to enter the park.
Selection of a campsite is probably the most critical decision you will make in trying to minimize your impact. Gravel bars make excellent campsites because they are durable and well-drained, often have fewer mosquitoes than other sites, and high water will erase signs of your presence. Remember that high water can occur at any time so locate your camp well above current water levels. If you must choose a vegetated site, select a location with hardier vegetation such as grasses and sedges, rather than more fragile lichens and mosses. Move camp every 2-3 days or before signs of your presence become noticeable. Wearing soft-soled shoes around camp will minimize impacts. Trenching for tents is unnecessary as is using branches for beds or caches. Before you leave, make every effort to return the campsite to a natural appearance.
Tree growth in the Arctic is very slow; spruce tree only inches in diameter may be hundreds of years old. In some areas wood may be scarce or nonexistent. Because of this, gas or propane stoves for cooking are strongly recommended. A gas or propane stove is also good for emergencies since it is easy to light. If you need an open fire, it should be built on exposed inorganic soil. Fire at other locations will kill the vegetation and create long-lasting scars. Only dead and downed wood should be burned. Avoid using rocks to construct fire rings. All traces of the fire should be erased before you leave. Remove all bits of foil, wire and other unburned materials from the ashes and pack them out. All ashes and charcoal should be deposited in the main current of a river if possible. A fire pan can be easily carried and it will prevent fire scars. If these steps are taken, others will not be attracted to camp repeatedly at the same location, allowing the site to recover.
Human feces carry harmful micro-organisms. Bury feces at least 200 feet from all potential water sources. To promote decomposition, choose a site in organic soil. Dig a small hole 6 to 8 inches deep. After use, bury completely and replace the tundra. Mosses, leaves, and snow make for natural toilet papers. All paper products, including feminine hygiene products should be packed out or burned. If you burn your toilet paper, be cautious NOT to ignite any wildfires. If you pack it in, pack it out. If you find litter, carry it out whenever possible. Buried garbage will only resurface due to frost action or curious animals. If a bear digs up garbage and begins associating people with food you may be creating a dangerous situation. Check with local residents before disposing of garbage at a rural community.
Carry a collapsible water jug to cut down on trips for water, thereby reducing trail formation. Bathe and wash dishes at least 100 feet from sources of drinking water and use biodegradable soaps. Water may contain Giardia lamblia, or other intestinal parasites. It is recommended that you drink only boiled, filtered or chemically treated water. Visitors to Gates of the Arctic’s backcountry are required to store their food and garbage in special Bear (Animal) Resistant Food/Garbage Containers (BRFC’s**). These containers are lightweight, cylindrical canisters specifically designed to keep bears from obtaining food and garbage from people in the backcountry.These ( BRFCs) can be loaned out free of charge, to visitors who contact our Ranger Station in Bettles, Anaktuvuk Pass or Marion Creek.
Twelvemile Slough, Portage Lake, Nelson Walker Lake, Pingo Lake and Lake Matcharak are receiving heavy camping at take-off places. Vegetation around the lakes is being destroyed and the impact is detracting from the area’s wild character. After arriving, move directly to the river to camp on gravel bars. Use existing trails between lakes and the river. Do not build fires on the tundra. Arctic ground squirrels occur primarily on well-drained soils among rivers or on slopes. They are commonly observed and can often be a problem at cabins, food caches, and camps.
Noatak National Preserve, Cape Krusenstern National Monument, Kobuk Valley National Park, all part of the Northwest Alaska Area’s along with Gates of the Arctic, Nowitna National Wildlife Refuge, Selawik N.W.R., Koyukuk N.W.R. and Inupiat Heritage Center are all close to this park.
Scheduled air taxis from Fairbanks serve Anaktuvuk Pass, Bettles, and Coldfoot. Charter flights may also be arranged. Bush charters are available from Bettles and Coldfoot into the park and preserve boundaries. Travelers to Anaktuvuk Pass can hike into the park and preserve boundaries, but anticipate covering no more than one mile per hour.
There are no roads in the park, although the Dalton Highway comes within about 5 miles of the park’s eastern boundary. Other than hiking in from the Dalton Highway (across one or two rivers then over the mountain passes, normally at a maximum rate of one mile per hour) access is generally by air.
Bettles Ranger Station (Field Ops), P.O. Box 26030, Bettles, AK 99726
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National Park Service (Fairbanks Hqrts), 201 First Avenue, Fairbanks, AK 99701
Visitor Information 907-692-5494 (BTT)
Headquarters 907-457-5752(FAI)
Visitor Information 907-661-3520 (AKP)
Visitor Information 907-678-5209 (CXF)
Visitor Information 907-678-2004 (MAR)
