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Park facilities include a visitor center, parking lot, headquarters building, and a picnic area. The park is open 6:00 a.m. – 11:00 p.m. on Fridays, Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays. 6:00 a.m. – 8:00 p.m. on Monday through Thursday. The Visitor Center is open 8:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m. daily. In 1959 the federal government obtained 165 acres, including the ancient refuge, for the establishment of a national park. There were 664,661 visitors in 2004.

The present park includes the coastal portions of three ancient land divisions: Honaunau, Keokea, and Ki’ilae. It lies about midway between the larger towns of Kailua to the north and Miloli’i to the south. Located next to the ocean, the park is reached via a secondary road off the Mamalahoa Highway. It consists here of a large flat tongue of pahoehoe lava flanked by three bays, Honaunau to the north and Alahaka and Ki’ilae to the south. In the vicinity of Honaunau Bay, the park includes the refuge itself, nearby palace grounds, royal fishponds, a royal canoe landing area, stone house platforms, and temple structures. The boundaries of the refuge are formed by a wall starting at Honaunau Bay and extending in a southwesterly direction for more than 600 feet, at which point a leg turns to the west and runs again southwesterly about 400 feet toward the sea.

Here, as elsewhere along the Kona Coast, lava flows (these from Mauna Loa) are the dominating coastline feature. The refuge is situated on a tongue or small peninsula of black pahoehoe lava jutting into the ocean and forming the southwest wall of Honaunau (Ke Awa) Bay. Within the curve of the bay nestles the small village of Honaunau, once the home of chiefly retainers and commoners, now supporting only a small number of houses. From here one can see what is perhaps the most spectacular natural feature of the park — the Keanae’e pali (cliff), a fault scarp paralleling the shore about one-tenth of a mile inland. The imposing appearance of the cliff, which is arc shaped, more than 100 feet high, and 1,000 feet long, is due to the metallic-hued ancient lava flows frozen in time as they cascaded over the cliff edge toward the sea, creating “festoon lava.” The early inhabitants used the numerous cave openings and lava tubes in the cliff face as residences, burial chambers, and possibly for refuge from the elements.

North about four miles on the Kona Coast is Kealakekua Bay, the scene of the second significant contact between native Hawaiians and Europeans. It was there, at the site of the early Hawaiian villages of Napo’opo’o and Ka’awaloa, that Captain Cook’s ships, the Resolution and Discovery, dropped anchor after discovering Kauai in 1778. There Cook was worshipped as the physical manifestation of the god Lono in the temple of Hikiau. And there he eventually lost his life during a sudden battle with the natives at the water’s edge near Ka’awaloa. A monument on the north side of the bay marks his death site. Hikiau Heiau, restored in 1917, stands on the east side of the bay.

The area between Kealakekua and Honaunau bays is renowned as the Moku’ohai battleground, site of the 1782 conflict between the forces of Kamehameha and those of Kiwala’o for dominance over the island after the death of Kalani’opu’u, king of Hawaii at the time of European contact. Kamehameha’s troops succeeded in killing Kiwala’o and routing his warriors, although the latter’s half-brother Keoua escaped to carry on the battle until his own death at the hands of Kamehameha’s followers at Pu’ukohola Heiau.

Immediately south of the refuge, in Keokea, a satellite village of scattered residential sites, including that of King Keawe, hugged the coast in ancient times. Inland remains of this settlement consist of two heiau, a holua, and the burial cliffs mentioned earlier. A little farther south, within the present southern boundary of the park, is a portion of Ki’ilae Village, occupied from prehistoric times until 1926. There residences arose around a well, called Wai-ku’i-o-Kekela, named for Kekela, a resident of the area, daughter of John Young and mother of Queen Emma. Nearby are lava tube refuge caves useful in time of war.

Today the refuge and associated residential and temple sites, walls, trails, and village remains are in ruins. Non-native shrubs and trees, vines, and a dense undergrowth of grass form a thick cover over the pahoehoe lava flow, which is periodically exterminated in an attempt to restore the landscape of the eighteenth century and expose significant archaeological features.

Early in the area’s prehistory, a ruling chief declared the tongue of black lava flow extending out into the ocean southwest of the bay a sanctuary protected by the gods. There kapu breakers, defeated warriors, and criminals could find safety when their lives were threatened if they could reach the enclosure before their pursuers caught them. A massive stone wall around the sanctuary marked the boundary, while a heiau within the walls afforded spiritual protection. Later a temple was built at the north end of the wall to hold the sacred bones of the ruling dynasty, who would act as perennial guardians of the pu ‘uhonua.

The refuge site today consists of an area partially surrounded by a thousand-foot-long wall of pahoehoe lava about seventeen feet thick and ten feet high. The north side of the structure is open to the bay and the west side to the sea. Within or next to the enclosure were several significant structures, including the Hale-o-Keawe, the ‘Ale’ale’a Heiau, the “Old Heiau,” and the Hale-o-Papa (Women’s Heiau). Other notable features include a konane stone (papamu), a fisherman’s shrine, and two large stones, one reportedly serving as a hiding place for Queen Ka’ahumanu during a quarrel with her husband King Kamehameha and the other used by Chief Keoua. A small enclosure east of Hale-o-Keawe contains two fishponds used by Hawaiian royalty. The Hale-o-Keawe housed the bones of the paramount chiefs descended from ‘Umi and Liloa, some placed in wicker caskets woven in anthropomorphic shapes. This sepulcher of the very high ali’i lent Honaunau its great sanctity. The entire area surrounding the complex was densely settled in aboriginal times and is now replete with significant archeological remains.

It is clear that a well-organized society once flourished in this area. Archeological features here illustrate all aspects of ancient society relating to the religious, economic, social, and political life of early Hawaiians. This way of life began disappearing with Cook’s arrival in 1778 and underwent more deterioration when Liholiho abolished the kapu system in 1819.

The sheltered, temperate Kona Coast of Hawaii became an ideal settlement area for the early Polynesian peoples who migrated to the Hawaiian Islands. The calm waters of Honaunau Bay provided abundant fish and other marine resources, while its gentle upland slopes offered conditions conducive to the growth of abundant crops of taro, bananas, sweet potatoes, sugarcane, and later, breadfruit. Also available were stands of hardwood trees for constructing residences and religious structures and for manufacturing canoes. Much of Honaunau Bay’s attraction lay in its sheltered sandy beaches where canoes could easily land. A number of brackish springs actually tide pools in which fresh water from rain and natural seepage accumulated on the surface of the salt water provided a dependable water supply. It is not surprising the cove quickly became a favorite residence of Hawaiian royalty.

The refuge was an important part of Honaunau, the traditional seat of the chiefdom of Kona. The ruling chief and his court occupied the area at the head of Honaunau Bay and along the shore to the south. Lesser chiefs and commoners serving the court and priests resided on the north shore of the bay, toward the mountains, and possibly at Keokea and Ki’ilae villages to the south. All residences were basically one-room, wooden framework, thatched-roof structures. The chief’s complex would have consisted of several houses.

The ancient village of Honaunau was the ancestral home of the Kamehameha dynasty, serving in ancient times as a major Hawaiian religious and cultural center. In 1823 William Ellis noted that “Honaunau… was formerly a place of considerable importance, having been the frequent residence of the kings of Hawaii, for several successive generations.” When King Keawe-i kekahi-ali’i-o-ka-moku of Kona, Kamehameha’s great-grandfather, died about 1650, his bones were placed in a temple constructed on a platform next to the refuge. His mana, inherited from his ancestral gods, and that of his descendants became the power protecting the refuge at Honaunau. The structure, in which his remains reposed, the Hale-o-Keawe, became a royal mausoleum, holding the bones of several more of Kamehameha’s ancestors and thereby endowing the area with extreme sacredness and the refuge with powerful guardian spirits.

Although the canoe traffic of ancient times moved easily in and out of the small harbor of Honaunau Bay, the water was not deep enough to accommodate the European and American trading ships that began arriving in Hawaii late in the eighteenth century. For that reason Kamehameha and other ali’i anxious to initiate social and economic interaction with foreigners moved to other harbors, such as Kailua and Honolulu. This was the beginning of the decline in Honaunau’s importance, which increased with the abolition of the kapu system in 1819, at which time the benefits of absolution and forgiveness provided by places of refuge became unnecessary. Honaunau over the years declined in population as it changed in character from a royal residence of kings, a religious and political center, and a refuge site to just another seacoast village that gradually lost inhabitants to the upland sections in the 1840s as happened in other places.

Kona climate is warm and humid. Temperatures range from the 70s in the winter to the 90s in the summer. Bring a hat, lots of sunscreen and water with you when you visit the park. Also remember good hiking shoes if you will be walking along the coastal trail because the lava makes for an uneven walking surface.

Current Weather

Please do not feed or harass any wildlife. Remember this is a delicate ecosystem.

Entrance fees are $5.00/ 7days for cars, $3.00/ 7 days for people walking or riding a bike, or $25.00 – Annual pass.

There is no camping in the park.

Driving south towards Volcano from Kailua-Kona on Highway 11, turn down towards the ocean on Route 160 at the Honaunau Post Office. Watch for the park sign as you drive towards the ocean.

Approximate Mileage from the following major cities to Pu`uhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park:

By Car:

Kaawaloa, HI – 3.72 miles

Ainapo, HI – 66.67 miles

Hale Pili, HI – 19.94 miles

Honalo, HI – 13.72 miles

Pu ‘uhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park, P.O. Box 129, Honaunau, HI 96726

Headquarters 808.328.2326

Visitor Information 808.328.2288

Map

The Visitor Contact Station parking area and Park Store are open from 8:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. The Kaloko road gate is open from 8:a.m. to 5:00 p.m. daily. Visitors are welcome in the park after 5:00p.m., however, their vehicles need to be out of the Visitor Contact Station parking area and Kaloko area before these gates are closed and locked for the night.

The earliest animal forms had to either fly or swim to reach the ocean isolated Hawaiian Islands. Thus, the native vertebrate fauna of the park is limited to predominately fish and birds, a few mammals, and a couple of reptiles. Invertebrate animals more easily rode ocean and air currents. Marine corals, crustaceans, and other invertebrates are more species diverse here than are vertebrates. None of the three mammals in the park are abundant or are full-time year round residents. Hump-back whales cruise the reef margins during winter and are often seen from shore. Recently, a few Hawaiian monk seals (an endangered species) regularly haul in and bask on park beaches. On occasional evenings, a few Hawaiian hoary bats can be seen cruising above Aimakapa Pond catching insects. These three are the only mammals native to the park.

During winter serious Kona birdwatchers are always checking out Aimakapa Pond at the park on the chance that some unusual lost stray from Asia or North America has sought refuge in this rare mid-Pacific wetland. Aimakapa Pond has a long list of these unusual stragglers, but there is little consistency from year to year as to what atypical migrants might show up. The pond is a reliable place year round to see endangered Hawaiian stilts and Hawaiian coots which are resident. Where non-native feral cats and mongoose are rigorously controlled wedge-tailed petrels are attempting to reestablish a breeding colony. During migration a variety of shorebirds, including bristle-thighed curlew, are typical.

Little is known about the earliest Hawaiian population, but because of their Polynesian background as fishermen and agriculturalists, during this formative time settlement probably began along the coastlines near rich fishing grounds. These scattered, often temporary, coastal homesteads, consisting of a few houses, were probably occupied by extended family groups. Although the character of a shoreline might seem promising for a village site, its selection depended upon shelter from winds and the availability of fresh water. In ancient times, water was available from several different sources. Surface streams in the larger valleys provided water for domestic use and later were used for irrigation purposes. Along the coastal plains, ground water was available in volcanic rock, limestone, and gravel. This lower-level fresh water (basal water) floats on the salt water because of its lesser specific gravity. Where there were no streams, coastal villages depended on basal water obtained from shallow wells dug in the sand a few feet from the shore. In some areas fresh water escaped along the coasts, causing springs under the surface to erupt through the salt water. This water could be captured in gourds for use. Settlement also extended into the lowland zone of alluvial windward valleys where there were fertile agricultural resources.

The early settlement period, therefore, was probably characterized by primary dependence on the sea and its products for subsistence. On adjacent land, however, if sufficient rainfall and protection from salt spray allowed, the villagers could raise sweet potatoes or yams. Expert fishermen, the first settlers were adept at exploiting the rich marine resources found in nearby reefs and bays, including fish, shellfish, squid, crustaceans, marine mammals, and seaweed. They not only rapidly became familiar with the various habits and characteristics of the different kinds of fish on the coasts and the best places and times to catch them, but also acquired an intimate knowledge of their breeding places and feeding grounds. This almost total dependence on the sea would last until crops were growing well and domesticated animals were reproducing in sufficient numbers, allowing the Hawaiians to expand into a land-oriented economy. In time there was extensive development and intensification of all aspects of food production.

During the early colonization period in the islands, Hawaiian society probably remained structured along the lines of its ancestral concept of hereditary chieftainship, with settlers organized into corporate descent groups. The rank differential between chiefs and commoners was probably not great for the first few centuries after settlement when bonds of kinship would still have been important in a small population group. The precise nature of the religious beliefs of this early population is unknown, although the pan-Polynesian concepts of mana (spiritual or supernatural power) and kapu (taboo) were probably still a part of their social and ritual lives. Sacred places were probably only designated by small platforms or some type of enclosure.

The natural features of Kaloko-Honokohau are inseparably intertwined with the parks archeological and cultural features. The park’s wetlands are the Big Island’s finest, and they are all ancient man-made fishponds. The entire surface area of the park, (and several of the shallow marine waters), contain archeological ruins.

Kalaoko-Honokohau has easily accessible tide-pools rich in intertidal life, and an unusual assemblage of anchialine pools. The tide pools are shoreline pools which have surface connections to the sea at high tides. They have diverse species mainly of marine origin. In contrast, anchialine (from the Greek meaning near the sea) pools are near shore pools without any surface connection to the sea, but have measurable salinity and show tidal rhythms. Anchialine pools have fewer but more distinctive animals. Crustaceans and mollusks are their most abundant and characteristic animals. Small red shrimp (opaeula) are the characteristic species.

Half the acreage of Kaloko-Honokohau is marine waters. These are an exceptional sample of the Kona Coast waters noted for their exceptional clarity and rich marine biodiversity. This is a friendly reef accessed daily by several dive boats, and readily accessible from shore snorklers by way of the Aiopio Fish Trap.

In recent times, modern transport by airplanes and ships has transported many alien species here (both accidental and deliberate). Some are so invasive (rats, cats, mongoose) they cause great harm to native ecosystems, and are the focus of natural resource management in the park. Also a problem is the red mangrove. In recent years, non-native red mangrove has aggressively invaded many shoreline habitats in Hawaii. Beginning in the mid-70s red mangrove overran and choked both Kaloko and Aimakapapa Ponds. Shortly after the park acquired the lands the park staff aggressively removed the mangrove. This was a huge undertaking and the park’s example has now been widely copied on the other islands in Hawaii. Red mangrove has been entirely removed from the park—but the management staff constantly monitors and removes all new seedlings of this invasive weed.

Like all lowlands in the Hawaiian Islands Kaloko-Honokohau is mostly a wasteland of alien vegetation. But, because of park restoration efforts there are glimmers of both native and prehistoric Polynesian plants. The shoreline strand, now that invasive mangrove has been controlled, is a natural landscape. Where the park staff has controlled invasive fountain grass, an exceptional array of native shrubs now flourishes. The lowland vegetation restoration at the park is continuing.

Kona climate is warm and humid. Temperatures range from the 70s in the winter to the 90s in the summer. Bring a hat, lots of sunscreen and water with you when you visit the park. Also remember good hiking shoes if you will be walking along the coastal trail because the lava makes for an uneven walking surface.

Current Weather

Please respect all wildlife in the park. Do not feed or harass the animals.

There are no entrance fees.

There is no overnight camping in the park.

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is 96 miles away, Pu`uhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park is 25 miles away and Puukohola Heiau National Historic Site is 25 miles away.

Kaloko-Honoköhau is three miles north of Kailua-Kona and three miles south of Keahole-Kona International Airport, along Highway 19 (the Queen Ka`ahumanu Highway).

The Visitor Contact Station is located on Highway 19 half a mile north of the Honokohau Harbor entrance on the ocean side.

The park’s Administrative Headquarters is located in the Kaloko New Industrial Park along Highway 19. From the highway, turn mauka (towards the mountain) on inalani Street and then make your first right onto Kanalani Street. Turn right into the fourth driveway on your right. The headquarters is located at the end of that driveway. Office hours are 7:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m., Monday through Friday.

The Kaloko road gate is located across the highway from the Kaloko New Industrial Park (across from the big yellow “Kona Trade Center” building). You can also access the park from the south end, by way of the north end of the Honoköhau small boat harbor.

Approximate Mileage from the following major cities to Kaloko-Honokohau National Historical Park:

By Car:

Kalaoa, HI – 6.71 miles

Captain Cook, HI – 15.87 miles

Walema, HI – 39.38 miles (Hawaii County)

Mountain View, HI – 109.60 miles

Hilo, HI – 93.87 miles

Holualoa, HI – 9.77 miles

Kaloko- Honokohau National Historical Park, 73-4786 Kanalani St., Suite #14,
Kailua-Kona, HI 96740
Visitor Information Recorded Message 808.329.6881 (ext 1)
Headquarters 808.329.6881 (ext 3)

Map

The park is open 365 days each year. Commercial tours operate Monday through Saturday, except Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day and New Years Day. There are 8,725 acres of land and 2,000 acres of water within the park’s authorized boundary; 23 acres are owned in fee by the federal government. On average approximately 76,000 people visit the park each year. About 66,000 people visit the Kalaupapa Peninsula overlook in Pala`au State Park, while 10,000 people come to the settlement via mule rides, hiking or by plane. Visitation is fairly steady throughout the year. The park is administered jointly by the National Park Service and several state agencies, including the Hawai`i Department of Health and the Division of Land and Natural Resources.

There is a visitor center in Kalaupapa at the Americans of Japanese Ancestry (AJA) Hall. The visitor center has interpretive materials and artifact display cases. It has limited hours six days a week. (Closed Sundays) There are wayside exhibits on the peninsula’s people, history and archeology located throughout Kalawao and Kalaupapa settlements. Wayside exhibits are also at the Kalaupapa airport and at the Kalaupapa overlook at Pala`au State Park. The National Park Service does not offer any regularly scheduled interpretive programs or activities because of the restricted nature of visitation to the park, and because tours are offered through a commercial service.

There are three types of visitation at the park: those who view the peninsula from the overlook, visitors who tour historic Kalaupapa and Kalawao through a commercial tour, and guests of residents. Reservations are required for commercial tours of the settlement, mule rides on the trail, and air flights. Visitors are encouraged to make these reservations in advance. Guests of residents may stay overnight in visitor quarters or in private homes. They may travel beyond the boundaries of the Kalaupapa settlement if their sponsor accompanies them. All visitors to the park must receive a permit from the Department of Health to enter the Kalaupapa settlement. The commercial tour company arranges the permit for their customers. Guests of residents have their permits arranged by their sponsor. Organized groups of volunteers come to Kalaupapa throughout the year on service trips. They work on natural and cultural resource protection projects in the settlement and in the park.

The park contains the Kalaupapa Peninsula, adjacent cliffs and valleys, and submerged lands and waters out to 1/4 mile from shore. Hawaiian people inhabited the peninsula and valleys for hundreds of years prior to the establishment of the isolation settlement at Kalawao in 1866. Evidence of this occupation in four ahupua`a (historic Hawaiian land divisions) on the peninsula and in valleys is relatively undisturbed and represents one of the richest archeological preserves in Hawai`i.

There is no vehicular access to the Kalaupapa Peninsula, as it is surrounded on three sides by ocean and on a fourth side by a steep pali. Dirt roads cross the peninsula proper. There are paved roads within the settlement of Kalaupapa, to the airport, and to the historic Kalawao settlement. A hiking trail from topside Moloka`i down the pali reaches Kalaupapa; the trail has a 1,700 ft. elevation change, is three miles long, and has 26 switchbacks.

Hawai`i enjoys moderate temperatures year-round. Rain increases in winter; some summer days are hot and humid. Trade winds are fairly constant. Temperatures range from the 70s in winter to the 90s in the summer. A rain jacket is recommended, as is a brimmed hat and sunscreen. Visitors who hike the trail should carry plenty of water.

One park purpose is to protect the lifestyle and individual privacy of the Hansen’s disease patients, so there are several restrictions for all visitors at Kalaupapa. These include, but are not limited to: permission required to enter the settlement, no children under the age of 16, no photographs of patients without their written permission, no pets, no camping, no hunting or firearms, no diving tanks, and pole fishing only.

Current Weather

There is no entrance fee for the park, nor are there fees for any park facilities. Overnight guests pay nominal lodging expenses. There are costs involved with the commercial tours, mule rides and air flights.

There is no camping within the park.

There are several nearby visitor attractions on Moloka`i. These include Moloka`i Museum & Cultural Center and R.W. Meyer Sugar Mill, with it’s mule driven cane crusher; Pala`au State Park, a 233-acre heavily wooded park sitting at an elevation of 1,600 feet complete with campgrounds; Kamakou Preserve, 2,774 acres containing native rain forest and shrublands where you’ll find native forest birds, along with several hundred species of plants, insects, and land snails found only in Hawai`I; Mo`omomi Preserve where windswept dunes shelter six globally imperiled plant species, and the endangered Hawaiian green sea turtle nests; and Pelekunu Preserve, 5,714 acres on the rugged north shore, accessible only on foot or by boat, that protects its lowland rain forests, verdant sea cliffs, and one of Hawai`i’s last remaining free-flowing streams. For safety reasons, the Nature Conservancy does not encourage public access to this preserve. Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, Kaloko-Honokohau National Historical Park, Pu`ukohola Heiau National Historic Site, Haleakala National Park, USS Arizona Memorial, and Kalaupapa National Historical Park are all worth seeing while visiting Hawaii.

The park can be reached by air through commercial and charter flights from Honolulu, O`ahu, and from Hoolehua, Moloka`i. Some visitors arrive by private boats and tie to buoys near the dock at Kalaupapa. Visitors also hike or ride mules down the steep Kalaupapa Trail, accessed off highway 470 near Pala`au State Park and the Kalaupapa overlook. At the bottom of the trail, visitors connect with the commercial tour of the settlement. There is no vehicular access to the park due to the ocean and steep cliffs.

Approximate Mileage from the following major cities to Kalaupapa National Historical Park:

By Car:

Mahana, HI – 12.46 miles

Koheo, HI – 10.63 miles

Halawa, HI (Maui County) – 37.15 miles

Halena, HI – 18.32 miles

Moomomi, Hi – 9.35 miles

Kalaupapa National Historical Park, PO Box 2222, Kalaupapa, HI 96742
Headquarters (808) 567-6802

Map

The park is open 24 hours a day all year. Kilauea Visitor Center is open daily from 7:45 a.m. – 5:00 p.m. Jaggar Museum, which offers earth science displays and features murals depicting Hawaiian culture, is open daily from 8:30 a.m. – 5:00 p.m. Volcano Art Center Gallery, located adjacent to the Kilauea Visitor Center, is open from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. daily. These are all wheelchair assessable. Over 1 million people visit the park each year.

Start your visit at the Kilauea Visitor Center located just beyond the park’s entrance station. Here, you will receive the latest information on trails, ranger-led activities, road conditions, and safety precautions. Because of the dynamic nature of the two active volcanoes in the park, conditions can change rapidly. “Born of Fire, Born of the Sea” is the featured 25 minute film that is shown in the Kilauea Visitor Center on the hour throughout the day. Rangers working in the Kilauea Visitor Center assist Park visitors. The schedule of ranger presentations is posted on the Ranger Activities bulletin board in the Kilauea Visitor Center each morning at 9:00 a.m. Walks may be wheelchair accessible, beginning at the Visitor Center and ending with a spectacular view of Kilauea’s caldera, or may be longer hikes through a crater, lava tube, across fairly new lava to see lava trees, or to view Hawaiian petroglyphs. Ranger-led walks enrich your knowledge of park resources and Hawaiian culture.

The park encompasses 333,000 acres and ranges from sea level to the summit of the earth’s most massive volcano, Mauna Loa at 13,677 feet. Kilauea, the world’s most active volcano, offers scientists insights on the birth of the Hawaiian Islands and visitors views of dramatic volcanic landscapes. The park is a fascinating world of active volcanism, biological diversity, and Hawaiian culture, past and present.

Well-known for its volcanic significance, Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park is also one of the most fascinating biologic landscapes in the world. Located over 2000 miles from the nearest continental land mass, the Hawaiian Archipelago is the most geographically isolated group of islands on Earth. The Park sits on the southeastern edge of the youngest and largest island at a latitude of 19°N. The Park protects a wide diversity of ecosystems and habitat for numerous native Hawaiian species such carnivorous caterpillars, happy face spiders, the largest dragonfly in the United States, crickets partial to new lava flows, a host of fascinating birds, endangered sea turtles, the native Hawaiian Bat, and colorful Hawaiian honeycreepers.

Hawaiian plants and animals began to evolve over 70 million years ago in nearly complete isolation and over 90% of the native terrestrial flora and fauna in Hawai’i are found only in the Hawaiian Islands. This level of endemism surpasses all other places on Earth— even the Galapagos Islands. Consequently, the Park is a fantastic laboratory for the study of biogeography and evolution within the Pacific Islands.

The Hawaiian Islands are known for evolving the most spectacular land bird assemblage on a remote oceanic archipelago. Of the 23 surviving endemic Hawaiian songbird species, those living within Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park include six Hawaiian honeycreepers; ‘apapane, ‘amakihi, ‘i`iwi, and three federally listed as endangered; ‘akepa, ‘akiapola‘au, and the Hawai’i creeper. There are also a native thrush (‘oma`o) and a native monarch (‘elepaio). Another three species of endemic Hawaiian birds found within the Park are also endangered; the nene, or Hawaiian goose, Hawaiian petrel, and ‘io or Hawaiian hawk.

Despite their protected status, the Park’s treasure trove of species faces decimating threats. Declining habitat outside Park boundaries, invasive plants, bird malaria, wildfires, feral cats and pigs, and introduced goats, sheep, rats, mongoose, ants, and wasps are all taking a toll. The control of mouflon sheep, feral cattle, goats, and pigs is necessary to protect and restore native ecosystems. Hunting parties of volunteers often spend eight-hour long hikes looking for these creatures. They are encouraged to salvage the meat. The animals do much damage to the environment and prevent the park from maintaining native species.

Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park harbors a plant paradise. Along the wind-scoured coastal plain, lone tendrils of an a’e fern peer from cracks in endless flows of hardened lava. At the Park’s mid-elevation, blazing blooms of ‘ohi’a trees and towering fronds of giant hapu’u, a tree fern, rise amid a tangle of misty rain forest. Miles above, the distinctive rosette of the endangered Mauna Loa silversword clings to an alpine ledge. Evolving over 70 million years ago in nearly complete isolation, more than 90% of the State’s native flora is found only in the Hawaiian Islands. Today, the Park harbors the descendents of those first colonizers—numerous marvels such as mintless mints and nettleless nettles—plants adapted to life without plant-eating mammals. These are just a few of the amazing diversity of plants living within the Park.

The intriguing story of plants within the Park includes a host of chapters such as the extreme isolation of the Hawaiian Archipelago, the processes by which flora and fauna arrived and developed and the influences of lava flows of varying age, texture and chemical composition. Moisture brought by prevailing trade winds delivers extreme differences in annual rainfall— varying from 20 inches on the coast to more than 144 inches at mid-elevation windward areas. Acid rain from the eruptions of Kilauea Volcano paints chemical deserts across miles of lava flows within the Park as ongoing lava flows form new landscapes. Volcanic topography has created a striking elevational gradient within the Park sweeping from Mauna Loa’s vast alpine crater at 13,677 feet in elevation down to wind-swept coastal shores. Together, all these influences create a remarkable mix of habitats in seven ecological life zones: seacoast, lowland, mid-elevation woodland, rain forest, upland forest and woodland, sub-alpine and alpine/Aeolian.

Four endangered species, the nene, Hawaiian petrel, hawksbill turtle and Mauna Loa silversword are targeted for full recovery by the National Park Service staff and its partners, who are aggressively engaged in restoring habitat, guarding nest sites, monitoring threats and population impacts, and removing alien wildlife.
Accessibility to the ongoing eruptions of Kilauea Volcano and the periodic eruptions of Mauna Loa, offers opportunity for the scientist and casual observer alike, to witness the formation of an array of astounding geologic features including new cinder cones, glowing pit craters, rivers of lava and fountains of spatter. The island of Hawai’i actually consists of five volcanoes as part of a volcanic chain of islands created over a 70-million-year period by the northwestward movement of the ocean floor over a fixed hot spot in the Earth’s mantle. Molten rock rising from this hot spot, about 60 to 70 miles beneath the ocean floor, is currently fueling the continuous eruptions of Kilauea Volcano within the Park.

Lava enters the ocean at 2,100°F (1,140°C). Sea water explodes into steam and boiling water. Molten lava and rocks blast skyward. Blocks the size of microwave ovens are tossed hundreds of yards/meters inland. Ocean waves wash on hot lava and flash to steam. In June 1998, large violent steam explosions began without warning, throwing molten lava in all directions. Falling debris built a 30 foot (10 m) spatter cone at the lava entry within 15 minutes.

New land, called a bench, is formed where lava enters the ocean. The bench is unstable and can collapse into the sea without warning. Bench collapses are frequent and continuous. In April 1993, one person entered a closed bench area and died when the half-acre he was standing on collapsed. More than twelve others, who were standing nearby, required medical attention. In December 1996, a huge 27 acre bench collapsed into the sea without warning.

Polynesians from the Marquesas Islands migrated to Hawaii over 1,600 years ago. Navigating by the sun and stars, reading the winds, currents, and the flight of seabirds, Polynesians sailed across 2,400 miles of open ocean in great double-hulled canoes. They brought with them items essential to their survival: pua’a (pigs), `ilio (dogs), and moa (chickens); the roots of kalo (taro) and `uala (sweet potato); the seeds and saplings of niu (coconut), mai`a (banana), ko (sugar cane), and other edible and medicinal plants. Polynesians were well-established on the islands when about 800 years ago, Polynesians from the Society Islands arrived in Hawaii. Claiming descent from the greatest gods, they became the new rulers of Hawaii. After a time of voyaging back and forth between the Society Islands and the Hawaiian Archipelago, contact with southern Polynesia ceased. During the 400 years of isolation that followed, a unique Hawaiian culture developed.

Hawaii was a highly stratified society with strictly maintained castes. The ali`i (chiefs) headed the social pyramid and ruled over the land. Highly regarded and sometimes feared, the kahuna (professionals) were experts on religious ritual or specialists in canoe-building, herbal medicine, and healing. The maka`ainana (commoners) farmed and fished; built walls, houses, and fishponds; and paid taxes to the paramount chiefs and his chiefs. Kauwa, the lowest class, were outcasts or slaves.

Village life was rich and varied: Hawaiians fished in coastal waters and collected shellfish, seaweed, and salt along the shore. They raised pigs, dogs, and chickens and harvested sweet potatoes, taro, and other crops. Men pounded taro into poi (the staple food of Hawaiians), while women beat the inner bark of wauke (paper mulberry) into kapa (bark cloth). They worshipped akua (gods) and `aumakua (guardian spirits) and chronicled their history through oli (chant), mele (song) and hula (dance). Over several hundred years the people of Hawaii cultivated traditions that were passed on through generations. But the sounds of taro pounding and kapa beating, rhythmical signatures of Hawaiian village life, would fade away after Captain James Cook arrived in 1778 and introduced the rest of the world to Hawaii.

Unfortunately, plants that have survived for millennia now face tremendous threats from alien invasive plants and wildlife species, creating great challenges for resource managers. Within Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park are 23 species of endangered vascular plants including 15 species of endangered trees. The race to recover the Park’s native landscapes and endangered plants is a major commitment of the Resources Management Division. Most visitors to Hawai`i Volcanoes National Park are enchanted by its active volcanic personality and its misty cloak of rainforest. Many never realize that its underlying treasure of native plants, animals and habitats faces an ecological crisis. Unfortunately, setting aside protected natural areas is not enough. The race to control invasives and restore native ecosystems, as well as to recover the Park’s endangered plants and animals, requires an aggressive commitment of time and funds. The strategy focuses first on removal of alien ungulates such as mouflon sheep, planting of common natives in Park landscapes that have been disturbed by ungulates or wildfire, control of invasive species and planting of endangered and rare plants.

Expect rain! Rain clouds can overcome sunny skies in minutes. Weather is extremely variable in the park. Along the coast it can be hot, dry, and sunny. At the volcano’s summit it can be cold, wet, and windy. Weather at Kilauea’s summit (4000′ elevation) fluctuates daily and can be rainy and chilly any time of the year. Temperature varies by elevation and it is generally about 14 degrees cooler at the summit than it is at sea level. The coastal plain at the end of Chain of Craters Road is often hot, dry, and windy with the chance of passing showers. Consult climate and weather information to prepare accordingly for your trip. For the island weather forecast, call (808) 961-5582. Bring rain gear, light sweaters or jackets, sturdy shoes, hats, water bottles, sun glasses and high UV factor sunscreen.

For camping, note that weather may be cool and damp year-round. Daytime temperature range: 60s to 70s F. Nighttime temperature range: high 30s to low 50s F for Namakanipaio campground. For Kulanaokuaiki campground, nighttime temperature range is high 40s to high 60s degrees F. Daytime temperature range: high 60s to 90s degrees F. It is suggested that you use a tent with a good rainfly and bring warm clothing for cool days and evenings for both campsites. Also bring rain gear, sleeping bag and mat, compass, topographical map, signal whistle, first aid kit, repair kit, food, camp stove, fuel, water filtering system or 3-4 quarts of water a day, collapsible water container, 2 quart water bottle, insect repellent, matches, candle or fire starter, and flashlights with extra batteries. Fires are only permitted in barbeque pits. They do not have streams in the park so backpackers may have to bring in all their own water. Some campgrounds have water collection systems. Updates on their current water levels are available at the Kilauea Visitor Center so check before you go while obtaining your permit!

Use the ‘Leave-No-Trace’ principles-pack out what you pack in and don’t remove, destroy, or in other ways tamper with the wilderness. Please respect all archaeological sites and artifacts left by ancient Hawaiians. Do not move any rocks, climb on or alter any rock structures, such as lava trees, walls, heiau (ancient temples), or petroglyphs (rock engravings). Entry into caves is prohibited. Dogs and firearms are prohibited in the wilderness.

Hiking over rocky terrain is strenuous. Allow 1/2 hour per mile when hiking on mid-elevation trails and more time as you gain elevation. Add additional time for scenic stops, and water breaks. Hikers must stay on established trails. The ahu (stone cairn) trail markers can be difficult on first sight to distinguish from the surrounding lava. However, the trails are well marked and hikers soon become accustomed to spotting the cairns in the black lava fields. Avoid cliffs, earthcracks and steam vents; the edges of these features are unstable and can be slippery. Hiking over cracks, loose rock and thin lava crusts increases your risk of injury. Rain causes the glassy lava surface to become especially slippery. Falling on lava can result in severe wounds. Be prepared with a first aid kit equipped to treat any wounds. Wear sturdy, closed-toed shoes (hiking boots are best) and long pants. Lava fields are shadeless and hot. Sunlight may be intense. Wear sunscreen, sunglasses, a hat, and drink plenty of fluids. Carry at least one quart/liter of water per person even on the shortest trails. Start your trek early to avoid being on park trails during the hottest times of the day. Avoid hiking after dark. All day hikers and overnight wilderness hikers must register and obtain a free permit at Kilauea Visitor Center. Permits are issued on a first-come basis no earlier than the day before your hike. Overnight stays at campgrounds are limited. Check with rangers at the Kilauea Visitor Center for specific campground locations and allowable numbers.

At the completion of your hike, report out by stopping at the Kilauea Visitor Center and informing the ranger that you have completed your hike. Permits are issued because of the dynamic nature of this volcano. In the event of an eruption, it is important for rangers to know who may be in danger. Before you go, leave a trip plan with another person. Make sure they understand that should you be lost or injured on the trail, they are your only link to help and should report you overdue if you fail to contact them by a predesignated time. If lost, stay where you are. Use bright colors and reflective materials to attract attention. Rangers will not start a wilderness search until 24 hours after they are notified that a hiker is missing. To report a lost or overdue hiker, call Hawaii County 911.

Bicyclists, protect the fragile lava features, rare plants, and archeological sites. Ride only on designated bike routes. Planning is important to ensure a safe bicycle trip. Stop at Kilauea Visitor Center for trip information, current road conditions and eruption updates. Also at the Visitor Center, pick up the “Bike the Volcanoes” leaflet, complete with trip suggestions. Most visitors travel in cars and buses so traffic is heaviest between 10am and 3pm, especially on Crater Rim Drive. Be alert! Narrow winding roads through the rain forest limit visibility and pose hazards to bicyclists. Always ride single file on the right side of the road. Do not weave in and out. Stop at stop signs and don’t exceed the speed limit. Watch for and yield to hikers, horses and nene (Hawaiian Geese). Control your downhill speed. Call out a warning before overtaking other trail users. Bike out what you bike in. Leave no Trace!

Know your mountain biking abilities before beginning a trip in the Park. In some sections, you will climb as much as 2,500 feet in 6 miles (600 m in 10 km). Take and drink plenty of water. Wear a bicycle helmet. State law requires that children under the age of 17 wear helmets. Wear bright reflective clothing to be easily seen by motorists. Avoid overexposure to the intense sun. Wear sunglasses and sunscreen. Stay on designated bike routes to avoid cracks and cliffs. A bicycle map and trip suggestions are available at the Kilauea Visitor Center. Carry spare equipment for minor repairs. Cell-phone service is not always available in many areas of the park.

Hydrochloric gas and steam plume is found at the lava ocean entry at the end of Chain of Craters Road. The plume can travel great distances, carried by both offshore and onshore winds. Sulfur dioxide gas and sulfuric acid mist can make breathing difficult especially near Halema’uma’u Crater and on the lower half of Chain of Craters Road. At times, the entire park can be affected. On those days vigorous physical activity should be avoided. Individuals with respiratory or heart conditions, infants and pregnant women should be especially careful to avoid prolonged exposure to volcanic air pollution.

While venturing out to see the volcanoes, remember these important tips. Don’t venture out onto the new land and black sand beaches created when lava enters the ocean. Stay away from the fume cloud/plume created when lava enters the ocean. Volcanic eruptions are possible at any time. In the unlikely event of a lava outbreak along the trail, move uphill and upwind of eruptive activity. Earth cracks, thin crusts, and lava tubes are numerous. If you have asthma or any other pre-existing breathing or heart problem, these fumes can be life-threatening. Sea cliffs in this area are 80 feet high, very unstable, crumbling, and prone to collapse. Stay well back from the cliff edge and at least 1/4 mile away from the steam/fume cloud produced when lava enters the ocean. During the day, temperatures soar into the high 90s. At times, the radiant heat off the active lava flow combines with high humidity to make it feel like a sauna. Carry and drink 3 to 4 quarts of water per person. The elderly, infants, and those taking antihistamines and certain types of medication for high blood pressure or depression are especially at risk for heat exhaustion or heat stroke. Bring a reliable flashlight and extra batteries. There are no lights to light your way back to your car after dark. Wear sensible shoes, long (lightweight) hiking pants, and lightweight garden gloves to give added protection from falls on lava (50% silica – it’s glass!). Bring binoculars to see lava from a safe distance. A first aid kit is useful. Check with Park Rangers for current conditions and location of active flows before embarking on this trek. Visitors should be physically fit and capable of hiking for miles on hummocky (lumpy/uneven) surfaces with cracks and shards of razor-sharp rock.

Current Weather

Do not feed or harass the wildlife.

Entrance fees for the park are $10.00/ 7 Days for cars, $5.00/ 7days for individuals, and $25.00 for an annual tri-park pass.

Persons holding a valid Golden Age Passport (available to U.S. citizens or residents 62 years of age or older for a one-time fee of $10.00), Golden Eagle Passport, or National Park Pass ($50.00 pass is good for 1 full year from date of purchase and allows entrance to any national park that charges an entrance fee) are admitted free of charge.

Namakanipaio and Kulanaokuaiki are two drive-in campgrounds located within Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. These campgrounds are free – the only fee that applies is your entrance fee to the park. Camping is available on a first-come basis. No reservations, no permits, and no check-in are necessary. Stays are limited to 7 days in a month and cannot exceed 30 days per year.

Namakanipaio campground is open year round and is located off Highway 11, 31 1/2 miles out of Hilo at 4,000′ elevation. It is a large, open grassy area with tall eucalyptus and ohi’a trees. This campground has restrooms, water, picnic tables, and barbecue pits. The large pavilion has picnic tables and a fire place (no firewood is available). The pavilion has not been rebuilt since it was destroyed in the February 28, 2004 wind storm.

Kulanaokuaiki campground is open year round and is located at 2,700′ elevation and about 5 miles down the Hilina Pali Road. Kulanaokuaiki is a new campground with only 3 sites available for camping. 2 of these sites are wheelchair accessible. There are barbecue grills, a vault toilet, and picnic tables. There is no water at this location. Located at a lower elevation than Namakanipaio, this campground may have drier and warmer weather.

Pu`uhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park, Kaloko-Honokohau National Historical Park, Puukohola Heiau National Historic Site, Mauna Kea State Park, and Kekaha Kai State Park are all worth visiting.

Hilo and Kona airports are served by inter-island carriers. Some major airlines have direct flights to Kona from the continental U.S.

Located on Hawaii, often called the “Big Island”, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is 96 miles from Kailua-Kona driving southeast on HWY11 (2 to 2 1/2 hour drive), or 125 miles through Waimea and Hilo via highways 19 and 11 (2 1/2 hour drive). The park is 30 miles from Hilo (45 minute drive). Vehicles may be rented at the Hilo and Kona airports. Most major car rental companies are represented at both airports.

At various locations the public bus, commercial tour buses, taxis, motorcycles, and bicycles are available. No rental vehicles or bicycles may be obtained in the park.

Approximate Mileage from the following major cities to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park:

By Car:

Holualoa, HI – 91.26 miles

Hilo, HI – 30.10 miles

Captain Cook, HI – 81.97 miles

Kailua-Kona, HI – 96 miles

By Plane:

ATA is the only major airline that offers direct flights from the continental U.S. and Canada to Hilo – 30 miles

United Airlines offer direct flights to Kona – 100 miles

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, P.O. Box 52, Hawaii National Park, HI 96718-0052
Visitor Information (808) 985-6000

Map

The park has approximately 1.5 million visitors a year. Haleakala National Park is open year-round, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, except for severe weather closure. Park Headquarters Visitor Center, Haleakala Visitor Center, and Kipahulu Visitor Center are open daily and year round subject to staff availability (with the exception of Haleakala Visitor Center on December 25 and January 1). All visitor centers have cultural and natural history exhibits. Books, maps, and posters are offered for sale by the Hawaii Natural History Association. Naturalists are on duty during business hours to answer questions and help you make the most of your visit. Programs are offered regularly.

In the summit area the following facilities are wheelchair accessible: Park Headquarters Visitor Center, Haleakala Visitor Center, and Hosmer Grove picnic area. Accessible restrooms are located at Haleakala Visitor Center, Kalahaku Overlook, Park Headquarters Visitor Center, and Hosmer Grove. Accessible water fountains can be found at Park Headquarters Visitor Center, and Haleakala Visitor Center. The summit building is accessible, with assistance, via a steep ramp. Park trails are currently unpaved and not suitable for wheelchair use. For the hearing-impaired, a script is available for a backcountry slide orientation program at Park Headquarters Visitor Center and Haleakala Visitor Center. In the Kipahulu area, there are accessible parking spaces and restrooms near the visitor center. The only paved portion of trail leads to the visitor center. At this time the trails leading to the pools and the forest are muddy, steep, and rocky. Access beyond the paved trail is difficult for wheelchairs or for persons requiring assistance.

The most isolated major island group on earth, the Hawaiian archipelago is 2400 miles (3862 km) from the nearest continent and has never had connection to any other land mass. They were formed as the Pacific Plate moved across a volcanic “hot spot” within the earth’s mantle. When the Polynesians navigated their way to the Hawaiian archipelago on outrigger canoes over 1500 years ago, they found islands that had been untouched by humans. The native flora and fauna of Hawaii quickly became an intrinsic part of the culture of the Hawaiians as they began life in a new place. Large human populations were sustained through careful land organization and resource sharing as the Native Hawaiians thrived in the isolated archipelago.

Haleakala National Park is renowned for its inspiring volcanic landscapes. These amazing landscapes result from the constant clash of the constructive force of volcanism and the destructive forces of erosion. Haleakala is a shield volcano that has been above the ocean surface for about 1.5 million years. Haleakala is considered an active volcano and is monitored remotely through equipment which sends information to the Hawaii Volcanoes Observatory on the Island of Hawaii.

Haleakala National Park was created in 1916, as a unit of Hawaii National Park, to preserve the scenery, natural and cultural resources. The pristine rainforest of Kipahulu Valley was authorized for addition to the park on March 26, 1951. The Kipahulu coastal area of ‘Ohe’o was authorized for addition to the park on January 10, 1969. The adjacent coastal area of Puhilele was added to the park in 1998. Ka’apahu was added to Haleakala National Park in February 1999. Haleakala is home to many rare and elusive native species of birds, insects, spiders, and plants. The natural resources within the park are vital parts of the Hawaiian culture.

Waikamoi Cloud Forest Hike is a hike into the Nature Conservancy’s Waikamoi Preserve. Here in windswept native cloud forests, native plants, birds, and invertebrates have woven an ecological fabric that supports some of the rarest and most beautiful of Earth’s creatures. Once frequented only by those versed in proper protocol to enter the wao akua (realm of the gods), the preserve today is still off-limits except to those on special hikes led by the Nature Conservancy or park staff. Reservations are recommended. Make a reservation for the hike up to one week in advance by calling 808 572-4459. Show up at least 15 minutes early and be prepared with layered clothing, raingear, water and sturdy shoes.

The summit area of Haleakala National Park has over 30 miles (48 km) of hiking trails. Trails range from just 10 minutes to long overnight backpacking trips. You might hike in the native shrubland, looking for native forest birds and endemic plants, or in the aeolian cinder desert, exploring the geologic history of the summit. Stop by a visitor center to pick up a free trail map and check on current conditions before you head out. Due to the fragile nature of the ecosystem it is required that hikers stay on the marked trials. Do not short cut the switchback trails. Pets may not accompany hikers on the trails. The Hosmer Grove Trail is an easy, short walk for family vacations with small children and is an excellent place for observing native plants and birds. The Keoneheehee Trail is an all day hike that traverses much of the Haleakala Wilderness. It is a challenging, but rewarding 11.2-mile backpacking experience. These are just two of the trails to choose from in which to explore the park.

The Kipahulu area, with its beautiful streams, subtropical vegetation and rugged coastline, is one of the greatest treasures on Maui. The powerful culture and history of the area makes exploration even more meaningful. In Kipahulu, all trails start at the Visitor Center. Detailed trail guides are available at the Kipahulu Visitor Center. Hikers must be properly prepared for hot, wet conditions and mosquitoes. Kuloa Point Trail is a .5 mile (.8km) easy loop trail that leads from the Kipahulu Visitor Center down to the ocean at Kuloa Point past historic walls and pre-contact Hawaiian habitation sites. The Kahakai Trail stretches .25 mile (.54km) between Kuloa Point and the Kipahulu campground. Shoreline views along the ocean are beautiful…but watch your step along cliff sides! Pipiwai Trail is a moderately strenuous 4 mile (6.3km) round-trip backpacking trail and winds upslope along the edge of Pipiwai Stream past several waterfalls and pools. The remains of a sugar mill dam, irrigation systems, and flumes of the late 1800′s can be seen in several places along the trail. The Makahiku Overlook is just .5 mile (.8km) up the trail and looks down on a beautiful 184-foot (56m) waterfall. Kipahulu has a long and rich history of human habitation spanning from pre-contact (prior to 1778) times to today. Many historic and archeological features are visible from the trails in Kipahulu. Hiking off-trail to look for features is prohibited.

Native vertebrate animals at Haleakala are a very select group. To get to Hawaii across such vast expanses of ocean, animals had to fly or swim. Not surprisingly the only native mammals at Haleakala are a bat and a seal. The only native reptiles are sea turtles. Birds are the prevalent native vertebrates, and except for migrants, all are endemic, that is, they are found nowhere but Hawaii. Even the Hawaiian goose, the nene, is found only in Hawaii. Long ago its ancestor, a Canada goose, flew here and stayed. Isolated, it evolved on land and even lost its webbed feet (not much use on lava flows). Now like the other Hawaiian land birds—it too is “endemic.” Hawaii’s renowned honeycreeper family, all closely related birds, has evolved into strikingly different species. Likely their common ancestors were lone accidental arrivals to these isolated islands. Over time, their offspring fitting into different physical habitat niches, favored those individuals whose physical variation gave them best survival ability. Today, though genetically closely related, the honeycreepers physical shapes are as varied as woodpeckers and parrots on the mainland. This iiwi (above) is well adapted to extract nectar from lobeliad type flowers.

No other animal in Hawaii has a lifestyle like the Hawaiian bat (Lasiurus cinereus semotus). This furry flier is the only native mammal of Hawaii that lives entirely on land. “Native” describes any creature that arrived in Hawaii without the aid of humans. Because there is so little competition for the Hawaiian bat in the evening sky, this animal was able to spread unrestricted to many types of environments in Hawaii. The Hawaiian bat began to expand its diet, eating more types of flying insects than its North American ancestor. In addition, the Hawaiian bat began foraging in wooded areas as well as the open lands that its ancestors traditionally used. In time, the bodies of the Hawaiian bats changed to permit slower, more maneuverable flight near vegetation.

Due primarily to habitat loss, the Hawaiian hoary bat was federally listed as endangered in 1970. There are less than 2,500 individuals in all the Hawaiian Islands. Despite this low population the prognosis for recovery is high because of the bat’s ability to use many different types of habitats and because there are populations on each of the main islands. In certain areas on Maui, including the alpine shrubland of Haleakala National Park, they are frequently seen. Hawaiian hoary bats have an uncommon combination of rarity and conspicuousness which make them special and entertaining sight swooping in solitude over the Hawaiian sunset.

Many changes occurred after the arrival of the ancient Hawaiians, but the rate of change has accelerated dramatically just in the last few hundred years starting with contact with the Western world. Today more than 20 alien species are introduced to the islands every year. The isolation which has made the plants and animals of the Hawaiian Islands unique also makes them vulnerable to the rapid changes precipitated by humans. Hawaiian species often cope poorly with habitat alterations, foreign diseases, predation, and competition from introduced species. Further loss of Haleakala volcano’s endemic plants and animals threatens not only the health of remnant Hawaiian ecosystems but endangers intricate connections with living Hawaiian culture. Active intervention by conservation managers has become essential to the survival of the natural and cultural heritage of Hawaii. At Haleakala National Park each of these elements – geology, geography, biology and culture – come together and are interwoven to form unique and compelling landscapes and stories which require careful attention and management if they are to survive into the next generation.

Hundreds of silverswords dotting a crater landscape are a spectacular example of Haleakala’s unique flora. The entire park’s flora is equally outstanding. Except for some pervasive grasses, Haleakala’s upper elevation forests and shrublands are entirely native. Most species are endemic—found nowhere but Hawaii. They survive here, now relying on the park staff intensive management efforts to control invasive non-native biota. Rainforests on Haleakala’s steep windward slopes receive as much as 120 inches of annual rainfall. These forests are stable and enduring when not ravaged by non-native pigs and goats. Ungulate rooting and grazing quickly breaks down the native plant cover triggering devastating erosion. Landscape scale erosion in tropical mountain slopes devastates both the native biodiversity and the island’s precious groundwater reserve. Yet, Haleakala upper elevations are now free of pigs and goats, and the park serves as a core area in the East Maui Watershed Partnership to protect this native rain shed and its groundwater from ungulate destruction.

In planning your trip to Haleakala, consider driving conditions, weather, and what you might do while you are here. Whatever you decide, you need to bring suitable gear, food, and water. There is no food or gas available in the park, so fill up the gas tank and the cooler before heading toward either the summit or Kipahulu area of the park.

The weather in both the summit and Kipahulu areas of Haleakala National Park is unpredictable and can change quickly. Be prepared for a variety of conditions. Temperatures in the summit area commonly range between 32 and 65 degrees F; wind-chill can dramatically drop the temperature below freezing at anytime of year. Hypothermia is a danger. Hikers must be properly prepared for high altitudes and cold, rainy conditions. In Kipahulu, high temperatures are common but can drop quickly with the frequent rain showers. Intense sunlight, thick clouds, heavy rain, and high winds are possible at any time in either area of the park. Temperatures immediately before dawn and immediately after dusk are regularly below freezing.

The high altitude at the summit area may complicate health conditions and cause breathing difficulties. Pregnant women, young children, and those with respiratory or heart conditions should consult their doctors prior to traveling to high elevations. To help avoid major safety concerns, be sure to walk slowly at high elevation, drink lots of water to avoid dehydration, and check in often with elderly friends or relatives to make sure they’re doing okay. Turn back and seek medical aid if you have health concerns. Trails are strenuous at this elevation due to the lower concentration of oxygen in each breath. Altitude sickness is a concern. Be on guard for symptoms; nausea, headache, dizziness, and shortness of breath. When beginning your hike on a downward slope, allow for twice the time hiking to get out, i.e. 15 minutes hiking down + 30 minutes hiking up = 45 minute hike. Soft cinder trails create hiking conditions similar to walking on a beach in some areas.

At Kipahulu, there is no drinking water available. Stream water in the Kipahulu area is not drinkable. Water in the wilderness must be treated before drinking. Mosquitoes can be prevalent in this area. Visitors should bring mosquito repellent. Dangerous flash floods do occur – check at the visitor center before entering the water. The Pipiwai Stream and all the streams of East Maui are prone to flash flooding. Water can rise over 4 feet in minutes. Stay away from the streambed during heavy rains. At higher elevations it may be raining and streams can swell to cause flash floods, even if it is sunny and clear where you are. Swimming is not recommended when streams are stagnant. Cliff edges along the stream are very slippery and unstable and there are no guard rails; avoid hiking too close to the edge. Visitors have been injured or killed by falling into the streams.

Follow these hiking guidelines to preserve the fragile ecosystem. Stay on designated trails. Pack out all trash. Travel quietly. Do not disturb animals or their nests. Do not pick plants or remove any natural objects such as rocks or disturb rock walls. Do not feed the wildlife. Travel and camp quietly and in small groups. Others will appreciate the solitude and quiet. Fires are only allowed in grills at Hosmer Grove and Kipahulu campgrounds, not at wilderness campsite. Cooking in the wilderness requires a small portable camping stove placed on a rock or gravel surface. Bikes are not allowed on park trails, but can be ridden on the paved roads in the park. Group size is limited to 12 persons.
For a day hike in the Summit area, bring: water (at least 2 quarts per person), food, full raingear, sturdy hiking shoes, layered and warm clothing, wide brimmed hat/sunglasses, sunscreen (High SPF), first aid kit/bee sting kit, and trail map. For the Kipahulu area, you’ll need the above plus mosquito repellent.

For a overnight trip in the Summit area, a good backpacking checklist, besides the above, is: camping or cabin permit, flashlight and extra batteries and bulb, compass, topographical map, tent w/rain fly, repair kit, warm sleeping bag and mat, camp stove, mess kit, food, pocket knife or multipurpose tool, toilet paper (must pack out when not using pit toilets), matches or lighter, whistle or signal mirror, water or water treatment system, collapsible water container and plastic bags (for waterproofing and to pack out all trash). For the Kipahulu area, you’ll need the above plus water for cooking and washing.

Current Weather

Please do not feed or harass the wildlife. Observe them from a safe distance.

The entrance fee is $5.00 – 3 Days per bicyclist, motorcyclist, or individual on foot. There is a $10.00 – 3 Days per single vehicle. There is an Annual Pass available for $25.00. It is good for purchaser and all accompanying persons in a private non-commercial vehicle. The Annual Pass is valid for one year admission to Haleakala National Park, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park and Pu’uhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park.

For those who need an overnight escape without a backpacking trip, the park offers two car accessible campgrounds: Kipahulu and Hosmer Grove. Kipahulu campground is near sea level on the wet, east-side of the island in the Kipahulu area of the park, which is reached via the Hana Highway. Hosmer Grove is on the way to the summit, high on the windy slopes of Haleakala. At Kipahulu and Hosmer Grove campground space is available on a first-come, first-served basis. No permit or reservation required. A person may camp up to 3 nights per month in either the Hosmer Grove or Kipahulu campgrounds. Hosmer Grove campground has a limit of 50 people, and Kipahulu campground has a limit of 100 people, both with a 12-person group limit.

Hosmer Grove lies in the cloud belt of Haleakala, just below the 7,000-foot level in the summit area. Be prepared for rain and cold weather. Nighttime temperatures can drop into the 30′s; daytime highs average 50-65°F. The campground has picnic tables; BBQ grills, drinking water, and pit toilets. Sites are close together in an open, grassy area near the forest and shrubland of Hosmer Grove. A self-guided nature trail begins and ends at the campground. The forest comes to life in the early dawn with the many native birds in the area, making this a beautiful early morning hike.

The Kipahulu campground is about 1/8 mile south of the Kipahulu Visitor Center. It overlooks ocean cliffs and is a short walk from Oheo Gulch. In the evenings, the sound of the ocean waves makes this a peaceful place. The campground has picnic tables, BBQ grills, and pit toilets. No water is available at Kipahulu; you must bring your own water supply. There are two general stores in the nearby town of Hana (10 miles away) where you can purchase water and basic food supplies. Be prepared for rain, harsh sun, and mosquitoes.

There are two primitive wilderness campsites, at Paliku and Holua, which are accessible only by trail. Permits are required for overnight camping at these sites. Camping permits are free, require a 10-minute orientation, and can be obtained at any Visitor Center. Campsite space is available on a first-come, first-served basis for the general public. Special accommodation is made for educational groups and boy-scout groups which may reserve space up to 6 months in advance. Each person is limited to a maximum of 3 nights per 30 day period in the wilderness campsites with no more than 2 nights at any one site. Holua and Paliku campsites have a maximum limit of 25 people each with a 12-person group limit. Holua and Paliku campsites have pit toilets and water available nearby. The water is non-potable and must be filtered or treated before drinking. In times of drought all water must be carried in.

Holua, the wilderness campsite reached by the shortest hike, lies at 6,940 feet (2,115 meters) in the shrubland near Koolau Gap. Holua is 3.7 miles (6km) down the Halemauu Trail or 7.4 miles (12km) from the Sliding Sand Trailhead. Visitors staying at Holua can enjoy day hikes into the central Wilderness Area. The landscape around Holua supports a native shrubland which colonizes the lava flows.

At 6,380 feet (1,945 meters), Paliku is on the east end of the wilderness valley at the base of a rain forest cliff. The campsite is reached via a strenuous 9.3 mile (15km) backpacking trip on the Sliding Sands Trail or 10.4 (17km) on Halemauu Trail. Clouds and fog often roll over the top of the cliffs behind Paliku, and rain is common. The extra moisture makes this spot exceptionally cool and lush.

Three wilderness cabins are maintained by the National Park Service for visitor use by advanced reservation lottery. The wilderness cabins are accessible only by trail. To reach the cabins, you must hike a minimum of 3.7 miles (5.9km) to Holua, 5.5 miles (8.9km) to Kapalaoa, and 9.3 miles (15km) to Paliku. Each person is limited to a maximum of 3 nights per 30-day period in wilderness area campsites and cabins, with no more than 2 nights at any one site. Maximum group size in the wilderness is 12 persons. An adult age 18 or older must accompany each group using a cabin. Holua, Kapalaoa, and Paliku cabins have pit toilets and water available near the cabin. The water is non-potable and must be filtered or treated before drinking. Each cabin has a wood-burning stove with limited firewood, 2-burner propane stove, cooking utensils, dishes, and 12 padded bunks. In times of drought, cookware will be removed and you must pack in all your water. There is no electricity in the cabins. Bring plenty of warm clothes and sleeping bags.

Cabins are reserved through a monthly lottery. Each cabin is rented to only one group per night. To enter the monthly lottery, your request must be received 2 months prior to the first day of the month for which you are requesting a reservation. For example, to request any date in May, your request must be received before March 1. Please send a written request specifying the date(s) and the cabin(s) in which you would like to stay. If more than one date will work for you, you can write down alternative choices and dates in case your first choice is not available. Mail your request along with your name, address, and phone number to “Haleakala National Park, PO Box 369 Makawao, HI 96768 Attention: Cabins”. Only one entry per party is accepted. No phone, e-mail, or fax requests are accepted. If your request can be filled, you will be given a tentative reservation and notified by mail. To finalize your reservation, payment must be received 3 weeks prior to the reservation date. A flat fee of 75.00 per night will cover the entire cabin for up to 12 people. Changes to a reservation and refunds can only be made until 3 weeks before the reservation date. Occasionally last-minute cabins are available. When reserved within 3 weeks of night of stay, the fee is non-refundable and the reservation cannot be changed. Flat rate for 1-12 people is $60 if reserved less than three weeks ahead. Call between 1-3pm HST any day to find out these restricted last-minute availabilities or for more information – 808 572-4459. You will need a valid credit card to secure a reservation by phone.

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, Pu`uhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park, Kaloko-Honokohau National Historical Park, Nature Conservancy’s Waikamoi Preserve, Puukohola Heiau National Historic Site, Kalaupapa National Historical Park, U S S Arizona Memorial, and The Maui Ocean Center are all worth viewing.

The main airport is in Kahului on central Maui. Major airlines fly from the U.S. mainland and inter-island flights are available between the inhabited Hawaiian Islands.

Haleakala National Park extends from the 10,023 foot summit of Haleakala down the southeast flank of the mountain to the Kipahulu coast near Hana. These two sections of the park are not directly connected by road, but both can be reached from Kahului. The summit area of Haleakala is a two hour drive from Kahului.
The Kipahulu area of the park can be reached via Hana Highway, a curvy, often wet road, three to four hours from Kahului.

There is no public transportation available either to or in the park.

Approximate Mileage from the following major cities to Haleakala National Park:

By Car:

Makauao, HI – 18.60 miles

Pukalani, HI – 16.70 miles

Kihei, HI – 33.62 miles

Kahului, HI – 27.32 miles

Wailuku, HI – 29.48 miles

Haleakala National Park, P.O. Box 369, Makawao, Maui, HI 96768
Visitor Information and Headquarters – 808 572-4400, Kipahulu – 808 248-7375.

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