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The Administrative Offices and Interpretive Center are open year round. Located on Front Street in Nome, AK, they are closed on all Federal Holidays. Open hours are from 8:00 AM – 4:30 PM. The Interpretive Center in Nome offers limited exhibits on the Preserve and Beringia, has an interactive educational computer program, films and offers programs and workshops year round. The museum collection of Bering Land Bridge National Preserve contains a range of natural history specimens and cultural artifacts representing several disciplines and specialties such as biology, geology, paleontology, archeology, ethnology, history and archives.

The Bering Land Bridge is as much a part of America’s cultural heritage as Yellowstone or Yosemite, if not more so. The distance across the Bering Strait from Siberia to Alaska’s Seward Peninsula is approximately 55 miles, and for several periods during the Pleistocene Ice Ages the trip could be made entirely on land instead of water. During additional periods, the passage from Siberia to North America could also have been made by small watercraft moving along coastlines.

Whether on land, along Bering Sea coasts or across seasonal ice, humans crossed Beringia from Asia to enter North America about 13,000 or more years ago. Humans were latecomers to this magnificent land mass so widely separated from other continents by vast oceans except near Earth’s poles. Europe, the Middle East, Asia, the Indonesian Archipelago, and Australia already hosted humans. Well dated finds in both the southwestern United States and South America suggest that humans were in these locations about 12,000 years ago. Much closer to the Bering Land Bridge, the arctic coastline was not peopled year-round until about 4,500 years ago.

Artifacts suggest that people lived in both north and South America by some 12,000 years ago; by the time waters of the Bering Strait had become a significant barrier again. However, similarities between peoples of coastal Siberia and coastal Alaska show that the Bering Strait did not prevent contact between their cultures. Similar languages, shared spiritual practices, hunting tool and traditional dwelling similarities, distinctive fish cleaning methods, and meat preservation by fermentation are but a few examples ethnologist cite.

The term Beringia comes from the name of Vitus Bering, a Danish explorer for the Russian czar in the 18th Century. The Bering-Chirikov expedition explored the waters of the North Pacific between Asia and North America. The Bering Strait, which lies between Alaska and Northeast Russia, and Bering Island, in the Commander Islands, are named after him. Today, we use the term to describe a vast area between the Kolyma River in the Russian Far East to the Mackenzie River in the Northwest Territories of Canada. It is a region of worldwide significance for cultural and natural resources. This area also provides an unparalleled opportunity for a comprehensive study of the earth–its unusually intact landforms and biological remains may reveal the character of past climates and the ebb and flow of earth forces at the continents’ edge. As one of the world’s great ancient crossroads, Beringia may hold solutions to puzzles about who the first people were to come to North America, how and when they traveled and how they survived under such harsh climatic conditions.

In the 1800’s fossil bones of mammoths were found on Unalaska Island and the Pribilof Islands. The Pribilof Islands were too far away from land for the animals to have swum over. There was also a significant similarity to the plants and animals of northeast Asia and Alaska. A botanist named Eric Hulten in 1937 had been studying the geographic distribution of living plants and noticed that there was a many closely related plants between the two areas, some not found anywhere else in the world. He hypothesized that there once must have been a land bridge between North America and Asia in the vicinity of the Bering Strait that enabled the spread of these plants. Today, research still goes on to discover the remains of history that will tell the whole story.

Another threat to the tundra, particularly to lichens on which caribou and reindeer depend, comes from atmospheric pollution generated locally and in distant regions.

Because of their sheer numbers, caribou and reindeer can have considerable effects on their habitat. For instance, during the 1960′s the number of reindeer on the Chukotsk Peninsula rose to 100,000, exceeding the capacity of the winter range. The essential lichens were seriously overgrazed and have not fully recovered. The present population is about 45,000.

Domesticated herds have displaced Chukotkan caribou. The wild animals have difficulty subsisting in areas already grazed by reindeer. In addition, herders tend to shoot caribou present near their herds, since caribou compete with reindeer for forage and make herding difficult. Still, there are signs of recent increases in the caribou population of western Chukotka.

Other effects of reindeer herding are not as obvious. Herds can threaten ground-nesting birds by trampling nests and eggs, and even eating eggs. Potential predators like wolves are often killed to protect the herds.

Other human activities, including human-caused tundra fires, can degrade reindeer/caribou habitat. To the west of the Chukotsk Peninsula vast land areas have been destroyed by large-scale placer mining for gold. The areas are so large that reindeer may be unable to cross them. Until now the peninsula has been spared but one mine has begun operating in its southwest part. Mining and oil development activities also threaten to disrupt and fragment the habitat of Alaska’s caribou.

Typically you are all on your own in the Preserve, with few if any links to the outside world. Hiking can be difficult and strenuous, especially across tussock tundra. You must be prepared for varied and changing weather conditions. Using this backpacking checklist will help you have a more enjoyable wilderness adventure. Make sure all equipment and clothing is of good quality. Have good hiking shoes and warm, layered clothing appropriate for the season. Use only durable tested equipment and be experienced in its use before you set out. Use good survival equipment: tent with rainfly (able to withstand high winds), backpack, compass, GSP system, water-proof gear, sunglasses, sunscreen, insect repellent, plastic bag to carry out garbage and to keep equipment dry, warm sleeping bag and mat, toilet kit (minimize the scents), terrain map, signal mirror, camp stove, fuel, matches, extra food, bear-proof container, cook pots and utensils, flashlight with extra batteries and bulbs, appropriate headwear, repair kit, collapsible water container, multiuse tool, knife, and water or tablets for treating water. Rain gear is often needed. Mosquitoes and other biting insects are common in the summer. Headnets and repellent are recommended.

Tundra and river bars are normally used for camping. Caution is required when using river bars. Rivers and their tributaries are commonly subject to flash flooding, and the water can rise and fall dramatically in a short period of time. Camp only where escape routes are available to safe, higher ground. Keep all gear well above the river level and secure all floatable items.

To help prevent or aid in the possibility if you do get lost, follow these tips. While hiking, take careful note of the direction you’re traveling, of prominent landmarks and approximate distances you have walked in the wilderness. Frequently ask yourself if you could find your way back under conditions of low clouds, rain or snow. Take careful compass bearings on the next day’s proposed route before retiring. Inform all your party of the planned route, campsite, and general direction of travel in the event you become separated. If you become lost, don’t panic; stop and plan carefully. If you become separated from your group, stay where you are or move a short distance to the point where you were last in contact with the group. If alone, climb high to look for familiar landmarks. If you find no familiar landmarks or rivers, stay in one place and remain in the open. Bright signals or objects placed in sequence of three are widely recognized as distress signs.

If you encounter an injured or ill person, remain calm. Quickly give whatever first-aid is required to stabilize the person and protect them from the elements. It may be some time before assistance arrives. Mark where they are located with a brightly colored material, in the open, so the person can be located from the air. Write down the nature of the injury/illness; condition and name, home address, phone number, sex and age of the person; what rescue equipment will be needed; exact location and type of terrain; and any information about a Medic-Alert tag, bracelet, or wallet card with ID number that the person may have. Then, quickly go or send for help. If you are injured or ill, conserve your energy and body heat. Stay by a water supply and remain calm, think, plan, and organize.

Arctic summers often present conditions in which hypothermia is a danger: low air temperatures, cold river waters, and frequent rain and snow showers. Exposure to cool temperatures, wet clothing, wet sleeping gear and wind, in combination with physical exhaustion, can cause even the strongest hiker to lose heat faster than he/she can produce it, resulting in a decline in core body temperature. Be aware that if you get wet, hypothermia is likely to follow.

Early symptoms of hypothermia include slurred speech, trembling, exhaustion, stumbling and impaired judgment. The objective of treatment is to keep warm and dry. Stop hiking and find a warm, dry spot, out of the wind, rain or cold. Remove wet garments and add layers of dry, warm clothing. Drink warm liquids (not alcohol). In more advanced cases, remove clothing and climb into a dry sleeping bag, stay awake, and share body heat with others. Remember-advanced hypothermia is difficult to treat properly, creating a very serious situation.

Prevention is always the best treatment, and that means careful planning and preparation. Take plenty of warm clothes, and enough food, water, clothing and equipment for at least one extra day. Take at least one complete change of warm cloths in case one gets wet. Pack clothes, sleeping bags and sleeping pads in waterproof bags. Eat high calorie foods. Dress in layers and remove outer layers to ventilate when you start to sweat. Make sure all members of your party are aware of the symptoms of hypothermia and to look out for each other.

The use of off-the-road vehicles is prohibited except for snowmobiles.

Subsistence hunting, fishing, trapping, and collecting of wild plants sustain village cultures and are protected by law. Do not disturb cabins, camps, drying racks, wood supplies, boats, fish nets, or other equipment, even if they look abandoned. Artifacts, sites, structures, and other archaeological and historical resources are protected by federal law. Do not disturb them. Please report such findings to a park ranger.

Mammals include muskox, grizzly bears, moose, reindeer, wolves, wolverines, Arctic and Red foxes, and other smaller species. Although they are called by different names in North America, wild caribou and domestic reindeer are considered to be a single species throughout the world. Alaskan caribou are clove-brown with a white neck and rump. Chukotkan reindeer, as a result of domestication, have varied pelt combinations of brown, grey, black and white in the same herd. Reindeer from Siberia were introduced here in 1891 as a meat source to replace native caribou that seem to have disappeared earlier in the century. Reindeer herding and husbandry is a small but thriving industry for Eskimo herdsmen. In winter, polar bears frequent the coastline and may come ashore. Marine mammals occasionally seen along the coast include several species of seals, walrus, and beluga and bowhead whales. Fish in area rivers, streams, and lakes include several species of salmon, grayling, char, whitefish, and pike, allowing for a great fishing trip.

Moose immigrated onto the Seward Peninsula in the late 1940′s. By the 1960′s, the population was well established and increasing each year. Although numbers have apparently stabilized over most of the region, they are still increasing in the western part of the Preserve where habitat for them is limited. The moose is the largest animal in the Preserve, weighing more than most bears and all other species. Height at the shoulders range between 6 ½ -7 ½ feet (1.95-2.25 m), and they are 6 ¾ -9 feet (2.06-2.79 m) long. Females weigh 700-1,000 pounds (315-495 kg), while males weigh 900-1,400 pounds (405-630 kg). Males have massive flattened antlers usually 4-5 feet (1.2-1.5 m) wide, but can be as big as 6 ¾ feet (206 cm). This largest member of the deer family is frequently seen at Serpentine Hot Springs, and on willow covered hillsides during the summer. They move to stream bottoms in winter to take advantage of taller willow species used for food and cut banks used for shelter from the wind. Their primary predators within the Preserve are brown (grizzly) bears and wolves.

Grizzly bears are also called brown bears, and are found throughout the Preserve. Height at the shoulders is about 4 ½ feet (1.3 m), 6-7 feet (1.8-2.13 m), they weigh between 323-1,496 pounds (147-680 kg) and when standing, measure up to 9 feet (2.7 m). They have a characteristically large hump (created by muscle mass) over the bear’s shoulders. The bears in the preserve are not the largest-usually only up to 500 pounds. Bears are actively hunted throughout the region and tend to be shy around people. Most visitors to the region will never see a bear. There are no black bears in or near the Preserve. Brown/grizzly bears are found from the islands of southeastern Alaska to the arctic. Black bears inhabit most of Alaska’s forests. Polar bears frequent the pack ice and tundra of extreme northern and western Alaska. In winter, polar bears frequent the coastline and may come ashore.

Bears are curious, intelligent and potentially dangerous animals, but undue fear of bears can endanger both bears and people. Many bears are killed each year by people who are afraid of them. Respecting bears and learning proper behavior in their territory will help so that if you encounter a bear, neither of you will suffer needlessly from the experience. Most bears tend to avoid people. In most cases, if you give a bear the opportunity to do the right thing, it will. Many bears live in Alaska and many people enjoy the outdoors, but surprisingly few people even see bears. Only a tiny percentage of those few are ever threatened by a bear.

Firearms should never be used as an alternative to common-sense approaches to bear encounters. If you are inexperienced with a firearm in emergency situations, you are more likely to be injured by a gun than a bear. It is illegal to carry firearms in some of Alaska’s national parks, so check before you go. A .300-Magnum rifle or a 12-gauge shotgun with rifled slugs are appropriate weapons if you have to shoot a bear. Heavy handguns such as a .44-Magnum may be inadequate in emergency situations, especially in untrained hands. State law allows a bear to be shot in self-defense if you did not provoke the attack and if there is no alternative, but the hide and skull must be salvaged and turned over to the authorities. Also keep in mind that bears behave differently in different areas so it is always best to check with the rangers about the area you will be staying in. See the Wildlife Precaution page for further information.

Aniakchak National Monument and Preserve is a truly primitive landscape with no federally-maintained public facilities. The National Park Service imposes no operating hours or seasonal restrictions. Access to and movement within Aniakchak, however, may be limited or restricted at any time depending upon prevailing weather conditions and/or volcanic activity.

Lying inland in a region of frequent clouds and stormy weather, Aniakchak remained unknown to all but native inhabitants until the 1920s. Then, geographers remotely plotting mountain locations along the caldera’s rim noticed their circular configuration. Eventually, in 1922, a geologic field party gazed down into the caldera. They brought back news of Aniakchak’s immense proportions. Although a dozen calderas stand on the Alaska Peninsula, Aniakchak ranks among the largest. Its fascinating volcanic history can be read from its exposed internal plumbing.

Aniakchak’s most recent volcanic activity came in 1931. A small but impressive explosion pit was added to the pockmarked caldera floor that year. Many thousands of tons of ash lay strewn within the caldera and scattered up to 40 miles away over the small villages. Fortunately, this volcanic episode was documented both before and after by an indomitable geologist and Jesuit priest, Father Bernard Hubbard. His photographs and descriptions provide an important benchmark for judging the likely rate of recovery of vegetation to the devastated caldera. Mosses, grasses, and more complex flowering plants have invaded sheltered spots. Brown bear and caribou have returned. Spawning runs of sockeye salmon now fight their way up the Aniakchak River and into Surprise Lake, the river’s shallow headwater lake inside the caldera.

Aniakchak’s 1931 eruption left a barren landscape with little or no vegetation, but plant communities now have made impressive comebacks. This recovery and succession process is of great interest to scientists concerned with after-effects of volcanic eruptions. Important initial observations were recorded by Father Hubbard the year before the 1931 eruption. In recent years scientists have conducted baseline biological surveys of the caldera as a measure for future changes. Interest among scientists helped spur Aniakchak caldera’s designation as a national natural landmark in 1970 and a National Monument and Preserve in 1978. The site also contains the Aniakchak Wild River. In creating Aniakchak National Monument and Preserve, Congress recognized the unique geological significance of the caldera and also acknowledged the outstanding wildlife and recreational values of the Aniakchak River by designating it a wild river within the National Wild and Scenic Rivers System.

Evidence of ancient human presence at Aniakchak is minimal. The oldest known archeological sites date to around 2,000 years ago, more than a millennia and a half after the caldera-forming eruption 3,500 years ago. Archeologists theorize that the massive blast created a “dead zone” that couldn’t be reoccupied for generations.

The archeological record shows that prehistoric communities hunted, fished, trapped, picked berries, and gathered shellfish. By 1,200 years ago, the strategy had proven so successful that the population had expanded dramatically. During the historic era, people continued to make a living from the rich resources of the land. As industrialization gripped the rest of the United States, Aniakchak residents followed suit. Commercial fishing and cannery operations began in the twentieth century and continue today in the lower Alaska Peninsula area. Alutiiq people descended from the early inhabitants of Aniakchak maintain subsistence and cultural traditions.

Aniakchak is part of the Ring of Fire. In this active volcanic area along the Pacific Ocean rim, volcanoes occur as the Pacific plate is thrust, or sub ducted, beneath continental plates. Very explosive, these subduction volcanoes produce large volumes of ash. They build island arcs and high mountain chains. Aniakchak is cousin to America’s Katmai, Redoubt, and Mt. St. Helens and to Japan’s Fuji and Indonesia’s Krakatau.

Midway down the wild and roadless Alaska Peninsula lies one of the Nation’s most fascinating recent volcanic features in the historically active volcanic belt of the Aleutian Mountain Range. Aniakchak is a 2,000-foot-deep caldera formed by the collapse of a 7,000-foot mountain. Aniakchak’s origins are uncertain but the caldera was probably formed by a nuee ardente explosion similar to the Katmai eruption of 1912. The circumference of the base of the volcano is approximately 100 miles.

About 3,500 years ago, a dramatic explosion caused the loss of some 3,000 feet of the upper mountain, which hurled 15.4 cubic miles of debris out of the volcanic vent and scattered it over a 184-square-mile area. The remainder of the mountain then collapsed, leaving a relatively flat-floored, ash-filled bowl. Since the caldera first formed, many lesser eruptions have created the small cinder cones, lava flows, and explosion pits dotting its floor today. Wave-carved terraces high on the caldera wall indicate that the caldera once contained a deep snow-fed lake, much like Crater Lake in Southern Oregon. However, hydraulic pressure or overflow eventually led to a breech of the caldera wall at a weak or low point. The result was a massive flood that created the great cleft through the caldera wall now known as The Gates. The Gates were described as: towering walls streaked with pink, black, orange, and green and eroded into turrets, buttresses, and soaring columns that looked like totem poles. On the western rim is a less spectacular gap consisting of a pass at an altitude of about 2,000 feet between rim elevations over 3,000 feet. The Gates now allows the Aniakchak River to begin its tumultuous 27-mile course southeastward to the Pacific Ocean through a 1,500-foot gash in the caldera wall.

The Aniakchak Caldera is the result of a series of eruptions, the latest in 1931. Nearly six miles in diameter and covering some ten square miles, it is one of the finest examples of dry caldera in the world. Aniakchak’s’ outer slopes are characterized as having sparse vegetation, barren ash flows, precipitous cliffs, and tilted rock strata. Some of the highest points are at Aniakchak Peak, reaching heights of about 4,400 feet. The interior of the caldera contains examples of almost every kind of volcanic feature: lava flows, areas of unusually high ground temperature, cinder cones, a lava plug, warm springs, explosion pits, and layers of volcanic and sedimentary rocks exposed by volcanic action. Vent Mountain, one of the cinder cones, is unusually high at 2,200 feet above the caldera floor. Cinder cones rarely exceed 1,000 feet in height. Vent Mountain is actually a volcano within a volcano. In the top of the Vent there is a crater about 2,000 feet in diameter. Other cinder cones in the caldera are over 200 feet high. The 1931 volcanic eruption, which probably took place in the southwestern section near Half Cone, added to the ash blanket in the vicinity of the volcano. Since 1931, the volcano has not been known to be active, though a U.S. Geological Survey researcher found areas of high-ground temperatures in the western portion of the caldera. This, plus the warm springs that are feeding Surprise Lake, indicate potential for future volcanic activity.

The eastern and southern rim, including The Gates, is mostly feldspathic sandstone of the Upper Jurassic Staniukovich formation. The remainder of the caldera walls are flows and breccias of Pleistocene and Recent age. Sedimentary rocks exposed along the rim of the caldera, are Upper Jurassic, predominately marine clastic rocks. The surface of the area is covered by volcanic materials.

The principal structural feature of the area is a series of complex anticlines and synclines aligned subparallel to the trend of the Alaska Peninsula. The Wide Bay-Bear Creek anticline plunges southwestward from the vicinity of Wide Bay to Aniakchak Crater and involves rocks of Permian to Oligocene ages. The Main Creek anticlinal complex is characteristic of the tight accessory folds associated with the major arches of the Alaska Peninsula southwest of Wide Bay. The eastern margin of this folded zone is marked by a reverse fault dipping steeply to the northwest, separating this area from the Meshik River-Amber Bay syncline on the south. The structure of this anticlinal complex is exposed in high mountains. Minor complex folds are present also east of the head of Amber Bay. These minor structures expose rocks as old as the Upper Jurassic-Lower Cretaceous Staniukovich and Upper Cretaceous Chignik formations. The Wide Bay anticline is separated from the eastern plunge of the Elephant Mountain-Aniakchak anticline by a gentle saddle which is interrupted by abundant volcanic necks and sills. The Tolstoi formation of Eocene age rests directly upon Jurassic rocks on the south flank of Aniakchak volcano. The north flank of this anticline is covered by recent volcanic rocks from Aniakchak crater. Tertiary intrusive igneous rocks are exposed at 21 localities within the proposed monument. These intrusive centers penetrate the thick section of folded sediments. The western lower slopes of the volcano are composed of volcanic flows and breccias of Pleistocene and Recent ages. The western coastal plain and the Meshik and Cinder River valleys are composed of Quaternary dune sand, beach deposits, and Pleistocene glacial debris, also of Pleistocene and Recent times.

Only two large lakes exist within the monument and preserve. The Surprise Lake covers 2-1/2 square miles of the northeast portion of the caldera, just inside the Gates, and forms the headwaters of the Aniakchak River. Most water draining into the western shores of the Lake is somewhat thermally influenced. However, the warmest waters are still well below 80F, warm compared to the other runoff but not very warm for humans. Rich in iron sediments, these waters lend a splash of vibrant color to the volcanic landscape. Lake Meshik, southeast of the caldera, covers approximately 2 square miles and forms the headwaters of the Meshik River that flows west into Bristol Bay. On the western coastal plain, multitudes of ponds and lakes dot the tundra around the mouths of the Cinder and Meshik Rivers.

Hidden, Albert Johnson, Mystery, and North Fork creeks, plus several smaller creeks, feed into the Aniakchak as it flows to the Pacific. It is the longest river (27 miles) draining into the Pacific from the Alaska Peninsula. South of the caldera, flowing west into Bristol Bay, lies the Meshik River and its biologically rich valley. It originates in Meshik Lake, as a shallow circular lake about one mile in diameter, which is about 10 miles southeast of the caldera. Its northern tributaries–the Cub, Windy, Rainbow, Waterfall, Bear, and Plenty Bear creeks, and several smaller streams–wash and erode the southern flanks of the volcano, creating extraordinary rugged terrain and exposing lava flows and ancient sedimentary rock layers that formerly were buried under volcanic ash. Waterfalls, deep ravines, and rugged escarpments are characteristic of these tributaries, yet the main valley of the Meshik River is wide, flat, and marshy. Shoe, Wolf, Black, Violet, Sleepy, Blue, Bluff, Landlocked, Braided, and Highland creeks, and several smaller creeks, drain into the Meshik from the south. The western and northwestern slopes of the volcano, which lie at an easy slope and are covered with volcanic ash, are drained by Birthday, Barbara, Reindeer, and Mud creeks, plus many intermittent streams which drain into Bristol Bay. The Cinder River originates in a semicircle of mountains northeast of the caldera and is fed by High Creek and several small creeks that drain the northeast slopes of Aniakchak. The Cinder enters the Bristol Bay lowlands almost at the foot of the volcano. The Cinder River has been designated as a potential wild river.

East of the caldera, many short, fast-running streams originate on the mountain slopes and drop rapidly towards the Pacific Ocean. Steams entering the ocean at the heads of bays offer considerably more diversity and interest in that they pass through valleys of less precipitous nature and thus have the opportunity to be associated with a richer biome. These streams and the bays with which they are associated are: 1) North Fork, Kujulik Bay; 2) Black Creek, Aniakchak Bay; 3) Main Creek, Amber Bay; 4) Northeast Creek, Amber Bay; and 5) West Creek, Amber Bay.

There are three types of tundra within Aniakchak National Monument and Preserve, moist, wet, and alpine. Polygon patterns, possibly from permafrost during an early cold age, mark the moist tundra in portions of the Meshik drainage. Moist tundra is found along the Bristol Bay coastline, between Port Heiden and the mouth of the Cinder River, and on the lands drained by the Meshik and Cinder rivers. Wet tundra is present on the west side of the unit surrounding the mouth of the Cinder River. Ponds and lakes dot the area. Alpine tundra covers the surrounding slopes of the Alaska Range.

Aniakchak’s 1931 eruption left a barren landscape with little or no vegetation, but plant communities now have made impressive comebacks. Lichens are present throughout the monument and preserve at Aniakchak.Lichens are present throughout the monument and preserve at Aniakchak. Lichens were able to prosper first after the 1931 eruption that covered the area with ash. They multiplied and expanded, and as they died they left organic matter to mix with erosive sands to form a fine layer of thin cryptogamic soil on which mosses began to grow. Slowly these pioneer associations worked with the rain and the winds to create a soil hospitable to other flora. The succession process is still fragile and in its beginning stages.

The tundra meadows are dominated by sedges and scattered willows and birches. A balsam-poplar patch appears in the Cinder River drainage just north of the volcano. Shrub thickets of alder and willow dot the upper Meshik river basin drainage but cover probably less than 10 percent of the monument and preserve. Sedges and grasses are the predominant species. Other species identified include crowberry, lousewort, avens, milk vetch, moss campion, heaths, and willow herbs, with some dwarf birch and willow. The slopes of the volcano are mostly barren, although inroads are being made by forbes, grasses, and sedges near creek drainages. The surrounding slopes of the Alaska Range are tundra covered, with predominant species including avens, low heath shrubs, prostrate willows, and dwarf herbs. Willow and alder grow along the banks of the Aniakchak River below its junction with Hidden Creek. Polygons mark the flats round the Aniakchak at lower elevations. Near the mouth are marshes and some willow thickets.

Wildflower species identified within the monument are; crowberry, lousewort, avens, milk vetch, moss campion, heaths, willow herbs, dwarf herbs, lyme and polar grasses, horsetails, yarrow, goldenrod, cow parsnip, sweet coltsfoot, Kamchatka rhododendron, pearlwort, and gravewort.

Few people go to remote Aniakchak National Monument and Preserve. Its acres are among the least visited in the National Park System. Notoriously bad weather combines with costly and unpredictable access to discourage most would be visitors. Although the unit is hard to get to it offers spectacular scenic vistas and examples of geologic and hydrologic activity. Aniakchak National Monument and Preserve encompasses 586,000 acres of pristine Alaska wilderness. While rafting the Aniakchak River, hiking the caldera floor, and sport fishing are among the most common activities pursued, the possibilities for adventure are limitless for those visitors determined and prepared enough to experience Aniakchak on its own terms.

With no trails, campgrounds, or other facilities—indeed, almost no sign of human impact whatsoever—visitors to Aniakchak must create their own adventure. In this dynamic, ever-changing landscape, whatever activity visitors choose to do has likely never been done the same way, nor under the same conditions. Other activities available at the monument are bird watching, camping, fly fishing, hunting, kayaking, mountaineering, wilderness area, and wildlife viewing.

Fishing is just one of the enjoyments of this area, both freshwater fishing and saltwater fishing. Sockeye salmon migrate up the Aniakchak River which is one of the very few rivers on the Pacific side of the Alaska Peninsula that produces good runs of sockeye salmon. In addition to salmon, the freshwater streams also support Dolly Varden and 14 other species of freshwater fish. Sport fishing is permitted in both the monument and preserve in accordance with Alaska Department of Fish & Game (ADF&G)regulations. An Alaska sport fishing license is required of all nonresidents 16 and over, and most residents 16 to 59. You may also need a harvest record card and/or king salmon stamp before you fish. For more information and to buy your licenses, stamps, and tags online, visit ADF&G’s License and Permits web site. Sport fishing licenses and king salmon stamps may also be purchased from a license vendor (most AK sporting goods stores), by calling (907) 465-2376, or by mail at:
ADF&G Licensing Section
1255 W. 8th Street
P.O. Box 115525
Juneau, AK 99811-5525

Spectacular resources make rafting the Aniakchak a most rewarding experience. You can float from inside a volcano to the ocean, past spectacles of wildlife and geology. There are several wild streams and the Aniakchak and Meshik Rivers. The Aniakchak River begins within the volcanic caldera and flows to the ocean through a progression of geologic and vegetative reminders of the area’s recent and spectacular volcanic history. They offer an extreme wilderness river adventure for those in optimum condition. The Aniakchak (Big) River drops more than 1,000 feet in elevation within the first 15 miles leaving the caldera. From Surprise Lake the river flows a peaceful mile to The Gates. The river moves swiftly through this narrow gorge in the caldera wall, and large rocks demand precise maneuvering. A gradient of 75 feet per mile makes this section challenging. After a more gentle 10 miles, comes the confluence with Hidden Creek, and the river is again filled with car sized boulders, abrupt bends, and a narrow bed requiring extreme caution. After 5 more miles, the river slows to meander toward the Pacific and the seals, sea otters, bald eagles and sea birds of Aniakchak Bay. Total float time is 3-4 days from Surprise Lake to the bay. The final 12 miles of the 27 mile river is a smooth, winding float along the open tundra. Watch for bears, moose, and other wildlife as you float.

Firearms are permitted within the Preserve portion of Aniakchak National Monument and Preserve. Sport hunting, subsistence hunting, and trapping are authorized by the Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act (ANILCA) within Aniakchak National Preserve. Hunting is allowed in accordance with Alaska Department of Fish and Game (ADF&G) regulations for Game Management Unit 9E. Any wildlife killed in defense of life or property must be reported to ADF&G within 15 days. The meat of a game animal that you have legally taken becomes your property, but you may not kill another wild animal to protect the meat unless the meat is critical for your livelihood or survival.

While there are no formal trails within Aniakchak National Monument & Preserve, hikers and backpackers will find excellent hiking conditions atop the ash and cinder fields of the caldera floor. Because the Aniakchak landscape also features swift, cold rivers and seemingly impenetrable patches of dense vegetation, the path of least resistance will often be an animal trail. Be sure to make noise as you walk in these conditions to warn wildlife of your approach.

Wet tundra is present on the west side of the unit surrounding the mouth of the Cinder River. Alpine tundra covers the surrounding slopes of the Alaska Range with predominant species including avens, low heath shrubs, prostrate willows, and dwarf herbs. The moist tundra and alpine tundra in the area is susceptible to long-term damage from human use.

Summer temperatures in this part of Alaska average in the high 40s to low 50s°F, with most days overcast and wet. The coastal area is often shrouded in fog and rain. Travel is best accomplished from mid-June through early September. Because winds are frequent, even though it is summer these conditions can quickly lead to hypothermia, the lowering of the body’s core temperature.

The caldera is subject to violent wind storms which can make camping inside the caldera very difficult. Local pilots who have flown into the caldera have reported bad experiences with strong and turbulent winds. Becoming weathered-in or not able to access Aniakchak is very common.

Current Weather

Expect the unexpected, and do not attempt to plan and carry out a trip based solely on the information contained in this website. Solo travel is not recommended. A hefty budget and pre-tested skills and gear are absolutely necessary.

Because winds are frequent, even though it is summer, these conditions can quickly lead to hypothermia, the lowering of the body’s core temperature. As symptoms progress it becomes increasingly difficult to respond to them. Be aware of this danger and know how to avoid and treat hypothermia. Drink plenty of fluids, eat high calorie foods, dress in warm layers, keep an extra set of clothes that remain dry to change into if you get wet, keep your sleeping gear in waterproof bags, are all ways to prevent hypothermia. If you become hypothermic, get warm and dry as soon as possible and take in fluids and food. The symptoms are slurred speech, shivering, skin numbness, difficulty using fingers, sensation of chilliness, lack of coordination, weakness, stumbling, slow pace, and confusion and apathy.

The caldera is subject to violent wind storms which can make camping inside the caldera very difficult. Local pilots who have flown into the caldera have reported bad experiences with strong and turbulent winds. Becoming weathered-in or not able to access Aniakchak is very common. Be proficient in survival tactics. Know your gear ahead of time. Bring plenty of food and water in case of inability to get picked up when planned. Use high-quality outdoor gear, warm, layered clothing (not cotton); good, water resistant hiking boots, strong tent, sleeping bag and mat, flashlight with extra batteries and bulb, a signal mirror, first aid kit, extra medications, matches, camp stove, fuel, and have rain gear. Small backpacking stoves are necessary for cooking in treeless tundra. Remember, you will be completely on your own. Be self-sufficient. It is not advisable to travel alone. Permits are not required for public access to or overnight stays within Aniakchak National Monument and Preserve. However, campers are encouraged to make known their itinerary information. For their own safety and enjoyment, and for the continued health of the Aniakchak environment, campers are encouraged to practice the Leave No Trace Principles of outdoor ethics. Please be aware that Aniakchak contains numerous parcels of privately-owned land. Access to private lands is prohibited without prior consent of the landowner.

Visitors should leave itinerary information with a friend or family member. Be sure to include float plan details (if applicable), the name of the trip leader, the air taxi operator’s name and contact information, type and color of equipment/clothing used, and anticipated date of return. The NPS will not initiate a search for an individual or group unless they are reported overdue. Aniakchak visitors are also encouraged to submit the same information in a “Backcountry Planner,” available free-of-charge at the King Salmon Visitor Center.

Aniakchak is bear country! Bears are active both day and night and could be anywhere. In order to minimize human-bear conflicts, it is critical that campers store food, trash, and any odorous items in bear-resistant containers (BRCs, or “bear barrels”). A limited supply of BRCs are available for temporary use, free-of-charge at the King Salmon Visitor Center. Hanging food is not encouraged as trees of appropriate height will not be available in what is essentially treeless tundra. Keep your belongings with you: A pack or clothing left unattended invites curious bears. Not only will your belongings likely be destroyed, but the bear may also learn to associate such items with interesting smells or, even worse, food. A bear that has learned that humans are a good source of food may become dangerous to people in the park and in local communities outside the park. In most cases such bears must eventually be destroyed. You can prevent this by being aware of how to behave to protect yourself and the bears.

In dense stands of willow or alder and other conditions that hamper visibility, make lots of noise so bears can hear you approach. Bears may perceive you as a threat if you startle them. By making noise such as clapping, singing, or even talking loudly, you can alert a bear to your presence and it will likely choose to avoid you. Try to stay with a group when traveling in bear country. A group is noisier, easier for a bear to detect, and more intimidating than one person or two people. If you see a bear that is unaware of your presence or far away, back away slowly and quietly while keeping an eye on the bear. The minimum recommended safe distance from any bear is 50 yards, and from a sow with cubs 100 yards. Avoid actions that interfere with bear movement or foraging activities. See the Wildlife Precautions page for further safety tips.

Only a few parties float the river each year, mostly in July. Plan on delays getting in and, especially getting out. Dry suits are recommended. Life jackets are required. Scout The Gates and Hidden Creek confluence before you run them. Inflatable rafts 12-13 feet long with rowing platforms are most popular. Bring lots of repair materials. Other supplies may be limited in King Salmon, so come equipped unless you make arrangements with your guide. USGS maps are available at the King Salmon Visitor Center (be sure to call ahead) and other limited supplies may be available in larger Bristol Bay communities. Camp on sandy gravel bars for flat tent sites and fewer bugs—and so that your human impacts are readily erased by subsequent high water. Use a small backpacking stove; firewood is scarce in treeless tundra. The Aniakchak is a dynamic landscape; river conditions may change rapidly in a very short period of time. Contact the National Park Service in King Salmon for the latest information, but always be prepared for the unexpected!

West of the caldera lies the waterfowl and migratory bird habitat of Bristol Bay’s coastal plain. To the east, rugged bays and inlets of the Pacific coast and offshore islands provide habitat for sea mammals and sea birds. The Aniakchak region is prime habitat for land mammals, waterfowl, marine mammals, fish and shell-fish, and extensive wild runs of five salmon species of Pacific Salmon. Aniakchak includes nursery areas for sockeye salmon runs that are part of the Bristol Bay and Kodiak/Chignik sockeye fisheries, some of the largest sockeye fisheries in the world.Sockeye salmon migrate up the Aniakchak River which is one of the very few rivers on the Pacific side of the Alaska Peninsula that produces good runs of sockeye salmon. In addition to salmon, the freshwater streams also support Dolly Varden and 14 other species of freshwater fish. Marine fish found in adjacent offshore waters include arctic smelt, Pacific staghorn sculpin, and starry flounder. Just offshore are significant populations of shellfish, including crab and shrimp.

Brown bear, caribou, moose, wolf, wolverine, waterfowl, sea otter, harbor seal, sea lion, and numerous smaller species inhabit the area. Most of the land species range freely throughout the area. Brown bear, caribou, fox, ground squirrel, and eagle are known to inhabit or visit the caldera. Wildlife viewing is spectacular, but should be done with caution in this extreme wilderness.

Brown bear are numerous throughout the area because of good forage conditions and seasonal availability of ample dietary protein in the form of salmon. River runners often see brown bears on the Aniakchak River, often a lot closer than common sense dictates. Brown Bear use dens on the slopes of the volcano and the eastern side of the Aleutian Range in winter, and move to lower elevations in the spring where they concentrate along coastal grassy plains, tideflats, and at the heads of bays. By late summer and early fall the concentration shifts to streams, where the bear fish for salmon. Bears in this region are considerable larger than interior Alaska individuals of the same species.

Up to 300 caribou could visit the Aniakchak area seasonally from calving areas near Port Heiden on the coast. Groups of 10 to 20 of these migratory animals have been seen in the caldera itself. The moose population in the area is at least 250 animals.

One major sea bird colony, estimated to contain more than 20 species, occurs at the tip of Cape Kuyuykak on the Pacific coast and makes great bird watching opportunities for the intrepid bird watcher. Over 50 species of sea, upland game, and passerine birds have been reported in the area. The Bristol Bay lowlands are a particularly important staging area for spring and fall waterfowl migrations. Virtually all of the North American populations of black brant, emperor geese, cackling Canada geese, and Aleutian Canada geese use habitat in these lowlands. The migratory waterfowl-coastal plain component of the Aniakchak ecosystem is significant not only locally but throughout the North American continent and other areas of the world. Waterfowl and migratory birds banded on the Alaska Peninsula have been recovered along the Pacific, Central, and Atlantic flyways, and as far south as Mexico and the islands of the Caribbean Sea.

Bears in this region are considerably larger than interior Alaska individuals of the same species. Do not approach them or any other wildlife. If you see a bear, moose or caribou, keep your distance. If your presence causes them to change their behavior, you are too close. See the Wildlife Precautions page for further information on self protection. Brown Bear use dens on the slopes of the volcano and the eastern side of the Aleutian Range in winter, and move to lower elevations in the spring where they concentrate along coastal grassy plains, tide flats, and at the heads of bays. By late summer and early fall the concentration shifts to streams, where the bear fish for salmon.

Moose should not be approached as they are dangerous and unpredictable, especially those with young. Other mammals in the area are wolf, wolverine, and fox.

There is no fee for this park.

All camping is wilderness camping in backcountry making it a great outdoor adventure vacation. Camp on sandy gravel bars for flat tent sites and fewer bugs and so you’re human impacts are readily erased by subsequent high water. Permits are not required, but it is highly advised to file an itinerary with both the National Park Service and a relative or friend. Topographical maps are available at the King Salmon Visitor Center at the airport. You should request trip-planning advice in advance of your trip. Write to the Superintendent at Aniakchak National Monument and Preserve.

Subsistence activities are allowed within the monument and preserve. Do not disturb any subsistence use camps, equipment or paraphernalia.

Katmai National Park and Preserve, Aniakchak Wild River, and Becharof National Wildlife Refuge, Alaska Peninsula N.W.R., Alaska Maritime N.W.R., and Kodiak N.W.R. are all nearby.

There is daily commercial air service from Anchorage. Access to the park is by plane or float plane from King Salmon, Alaska or by power boat from any one of the numerous villages along the Pacific Ocean coastline. Air charters can land you at Lake Meshik, Surprise Lake in the caldera, or Aniakchak, Amber, or Kujulik bays on the Pacific Ocean. Weather conditions often prevent or delay drop-offs and pickups. Plan for the worst-case scenario.

There are no formal trails within the monument/preserve although open ash fields provide hiking/backpacking opportunities.

Aniakchak National Monument & Preserve
#1 King Salmon Mall
P.O. Box 245
King Salmon, AK 99613
Visitor Information (907) 246-3305
Fax (907) 246-2116

http://www.mapquest.com/maps/map.adp?formtype=address&cat=Aniakchak%20National%20Monument%20and%20Preserve&address=&city=&state=AK&zipcode=&country=US

The park and its facilities on Amaknak Island in Unalaska, Alaska, are owned and managed by the Ounalashka Corporation, the village corporation for Unalaska. The National Park Service provides technical assistance to the corporation and its staff to plan, develop, and preserve the resources on site. Through this cooperative partnership, the Unangax are the keepers of their history and invite the public to learn more about its past and present. The best time to visit the park is May through October, but the park is open year round. Visitors may access the area at any time but overnight camping is not permitted.

The Aleutian World War II National Historic area can be accessed in the summer via an unimproved gravel switchback road from the city of Unalaska. In the winter you’ll need snowshoes or skis.

Within forty-five years after Russian contact, the native Unangan or Aleut, as the world at large has come to call them, generally estimated at twelve to fifteen thousand in number, plummeted to a few thousand persons at most-the population decimated by warfare, epidemics, and starvation. Exploited by Russian fur traders to harvest the sea otter, Aleut hunters were often enslaved, others forcibly relocated, some as far south as the Santa Catalina Islands off California, their wives and children held hostage to ensure acquiescence. The Russian monarchy attempted to enforce fair treatment, but it was not until the arrival of the Russian Orthodox Church in the 1800s, that the Aleuts’ rights were argued in Russian courts. After the purchase of Alaska by the United States in 1867, the Aleut found themselves classified as “Indians” and made wards of the government. Under U.S. protectorate, the Aleut entered a time of what can best be described as benign neglect, receiving little or no support from the Territorial or Federal authorities.

The Aleut worked the introduced fox and sheep farms for wages, became construction workers or longshoremen, but almost all still looked to the sea for sustenance. The Aleuts’ hardships lasted for over two centuries, under the governing hand of two countries, culminating finally in the forced evacuation from their homeland during World War II, where the unique geography of their islands, the link between east and west, again played a pivotal role in their history.

The traditional Aleut winter house, called a barabara or, in Aleut, an ulax, was a semi-subterranean dwelling with a driftwood/whale bone frame overlain with grass, earth, and sod. Entrance was through a portal in the roof, the inhabitants descending into the interior by means of a notched log ladder. Woven grass mats divided the dwellings into familial units with storage, sleeping quarters, and hiding places excavated into the walls-the latter often linked to secret passages providing a means of escape during warfare. Barabaras reached lengths of 60 meters or more and held upwards of 40 families. They functioned as the site of manufacturing, communal and ceremonial activities, and at times, burial of the dead. Although it is thought each house acted independently, an elder of a leading barabara in the community was recognized as village leader. Shared dancing and feasting insured harmony between individual villages.

Aleut basketry is some of the finest in the world, the continuum of a craft begun in prehistoric times and carried through to the present. Early Aleut women created baskets and woven mats of exceptional technical quality using only an elongated and sharpened thumbnail as tool. Today Aleut weavers continue to produce woven pieces of a remarkable cloth-like texture, works of modern art with roots in ancient tradition. The Aleut word for grass basket is qiigam aygaaxsii.

A proliferation of wildlife drew humans to the island chain as early as 8,000 years before present. By 4,000 years before present a great maritime nation had arisen, one adapted to efficiently exploit a single subsistence resource: the sea. From their skin boats, Aleut hunters harvested whales and pinnipeds-the sea lion, sea otter, and seal; sea birds were taken and their eggs collected; women fished for spawning salmon and scoured the rich intertidal zone for shellfish, seaweed, and driftwood. From the waters not only came their food, but the raw materials for the vast majority of their manufactured goods, garments, and tools. The sophisticated technology the Aleut developed to harvest the ocean was unparalleled; their ability to do so remarkable, considering their environment.

The Aleutian World War II National Historic Site follows the historic footprint of the U.S. Army Fort Schwatka located at Ulakta Head on Mount Ballyhoo. The fort is one of four coastal defense posts built in 1942 and 1943 to protect the Dutch Harbor Naval Operating Base. The army built over a hundred buildings at Fort Schwatka. At 897 feet above sea level, the installations on Mount Ballyhoo were the highest coastal defenses built in the United States. The fort was named for Lt. Frederick Schwatka, who conducted several military surveys of Alaska, including Unalaska, in the 1880s. Engineers designed the concrete observation posts and command stations to withstand earthquakes and 100 mile-per-hour winds. The fort overlooks Dutch Harbor and is the key to its protection. Although today, many of the bunkers and wooden structures of Fort Schwatka have collapsed, the gun mounts and lookouts are among the most intact in the country. Visitors to the area may explore the remaining structures and ruins, and sense the scope of the War effort mounted in the Aleutians to protect the United States from the Japanese invasion. The Japanese occupied U.S. territory for over a year before being routed at Attu. Not since the War of 1812 had a foreign battle been fought on American soil.

June 3, 1942, six months after the attack on Pearl Harbor, Japanese aircraft struck U.S. Army and Navy installations at Dutch Harbor in the Aleutian Island Chain. Two days of aerial bombardment left over one hundred civilians and servicemen dead and wounded; barracks, fuel tanks, and other structures set afire.

U.S. forces at Fort Mears met the first attack on June 3, with antiaircraft and small arms fire, but on June 4, the Aleutian Tigers (eight P-40s), engaged the Japanese planes in aerial dogfights. The U.S. planes were launched from Cape Field at Fort Glenn, a secret airbase on neighboring Umnak Island. The Japanese had thought the nearest airfield was on Kodiak, and Cape Field, disguised as a cannery complex, had remained undetected. The surprise aerial counter-attack destroyed four Val dive bombers and one Zero.

In the following days, U.S. amphibious and bomber aircraft searched the Pacific Ocean for the Japanese carriers and their escort ships, with Zeros. Low visibility weather exacted a heavy toll on the search planes. Of six Catalinas that came within sight of the Japanese fleet, four were downed by Japanese fighters; another was lost in the fog.

Notwithstanding the tragic loss of American lives, the first forty-eight hours of the Aleutian Campaign exacted little substantive damage on U.S. or Japanese forces. No Japanese vessels were damaged and Fort Schwatka at Dutch Harbor was quickly repaired. What had quickly become apparent to both sides however was the role the capricious Aleutian weather would play in the campaign; at times an unpredictable ally, at times an uncertain foe. Weather claimed more than its share of lives. Soldiers shot their own in the fog; unable to penetrate fog and clouds, ships were thrown against rocks and sunk in heavy seas; pilots met the sides of mountains in low overcast skies, or flew off course never to be seen again.

The Eleventh Air Force alone dropped 26,910 bombs on Kiska and Attu islands in an attempt to soften Japanese emplacements prior to amphibious landings of U.S. and Canadian forces, but the Japanese troops were well entrenched, and the terrain was often obscured by fog. The boxy B-24 bore the brunt of the early missions, one of the few heavy bombers capable of making the 1,200 mile round-trip from Cape Field to the western end of the Aleutian Chain. Once over their targets, U.S. aircrews often had to drop their bomb loads blindly through the cloud cover, using the crests of volcanoes as landmarks, then fight their way home through antiaircraft fire. Under their protective blanket of fog, the Japanese ground forces found the continuous bombardment little more than a nuisance.

Construction of their own airfield on Kiska proceeded slowly for the Japanese, a lack of heavy equipment forces workers to use hand tools and wheelbarrows. With the departure of the carriers Ryujo and Junyo and their Zeros, the air defense of the islands rested on the Rufe float fighter plane. The U.S. Eleventh Air Force and the Aleutian weather took their toll on these fighters, leaving only a handful to meet Allied raids. U.S. forces continued to move westward through the Chain. With the aid of heavy earth-moving equipment, engineers constructed a landing field in a water soaked tidewater flat on Adak Island in twelve short days.

Just 250 miles from Kiska, this forward field brought the Japanese within range of U.S. fighter and dive bomber planes. In the Pacific Ocean, American aircraft and submarines patrolled for Japanese shipping, effectively shutting off resupply and reinforcements. Isolated, their air power virtually eliminated, the Japanese troops dug in and prepared for the inevitable invasion.

Admiral Isoroku Yamamoto, the Commander of the Japanese Combined Fleet, had traveled extensively within the U.S. and was familiar with her industrial capabilities and seemingly limitless oil reserves. When the Admiral counseled against waging war with the “sleeping giant,” he was met with veiled threats of assassination. “If you insist on my going ahead,” he told the Prime Minister, “I can promise to give them hell for a year or a year and a half, but can guarantee nothing as to what will happen after that.” The impetus for Yamamoto’s attack on the Aleutian Islands was twofold” to divert forces of the U.S. Pacific Fleet from the central Pacific Theater and to gain a largely psychological foothold on American soil. He accomplished both goals with a minimal commitment of men and materials.

U.S. and Canadian forces grew to 144,000 troops in the Alaska-Aleutian area by 1943, but the ships dispatched northward by U.S. Admiral Chester Nimitz from his fleet were but a token force having little or no impact on the outcome of the Battle of Midway. The Japanese occupation of Attu and Kiska islands at the western tip of the Aleutian Chain would in the end call for over 2,300 Japanese soldiers of the North Sea Garrison to sacrifice their lives for the Imperial Edict.

Battle of Attu the “Akutan Zero,” was one of the prizes of the Aleutian Campaign. Downed during the attack on Dutch Harbor, the aircraft was later recovered and shipped to San Diego for repairs. Flown in mock engagements with U.S. fighters, the plane was found to possess superior maneuverability and range, but was fragile—lacking armor plating and self-sealing fuel tanks. Of the aircraft available to U.S. forces at the time, only the most recently produced, the Hellcat, was superior in performance. Summing up the Zero as an aerial foe, U.S. Navy and Army Air Forces warned: Never attempt to dog fight the Zero.

On May 11, 1943, two contingents of U.S. soldiers, numbering approximately 12,500 men in total, landed on the north and south ends of Attu Island and began pressing towards the Japanese strongholds at Holtz Bay and Chichagof Harbor. Progress was slow and costly. Eight days of heavy fighting passed before the South Landing Force climbed its way out of Massacre Bay. The North Landing Force, amongst their numbers the unorthodox Alaska Scouts, forced the Japanese from Holtz Bay, and then continued towards Jarmin Pass and the North Landing Force to complete the pincer movement.

The approximately 2,300 Japanese troops that remained had retreated to the wild heights of Fish Hook Ridge above Chichagof Valley, waiting for reinforcements. None arrived. On May 23, a force of sixteen Japanese Betty bombers was met by U.S. P-38 Lightnings over Attu. Five of the Japanese bombers were downed. It was the last attempt by the Japanese to support their Aleutian troops by air.

On the ground, American forces had increased to 15,000. Air strikes and U.S. ground force assaults up the precipitous Fish Hook Ridge further diminished Japanese forces. On May 29, Colonel Yamasaki, and the remainder of his Attu troops, numbering 750 or less, broke through American lines in a desperate attempt to reach Massacre Bay and needed stockpiles of U.S. supplies. They were finally halted at Engineer Hill, as a hastily organized U.S. defense repelled wave after wave of banzai attacks. Those Japanese troops that were not killed by U.S. fire, took their own lives. In the end, of the 2,300 Japanese troops, fewer than thirty soldiers of the North Sea Garrison were left alive, many ashamed that they had dishonored themselves by surrender. American dead numbered 549.

After the expulsion of the Japanese from Attu, U.S. naval and aerial bombardment of Kiska increased in fervor. Japanese submarines attempted to evacuate the estimated 5,100 Japanese troops on the island, but the process proved too slow, and far too dangerous with a tightened U.S. blockade. On July 28, under the cover of thick fog, Japanese cruisers and destroyers managed to slip through U.S. naval forces and aerial reconnaissance without detection. In thirty minutes, the 5,100 Kiska troops were boarded, and the fleet headed back to the safety of Paramishiro Harbor.

The evacuation was so bold and well executed, U.S. commanders refused to believe it had taken place. However, U.S. fighters strafing Kiska no longer received return anti-aircraft fire. In one instance, four U.S. P-40s landed on the shell pocked Kiska airfield. The pilots left their planes and strolled near the runway, seeing no sigh of the enemy. In spite of this evidence, U.S. intelligence argued that the Japanese adherence to the Bushido Code forbade them from surrendering Kiska without a fight. The lessons of Attu, America’s first experience with Japanese suicide attacks had been too well learned. The invasion of Kiska proceeded as planned. On August 15, 1943, U.S. and Canadian troops landed on Kiska. In the three day operation that ensued, over 313 allied soldiers died from “friendly fire,” booby traps, and land mines. The Japanese had occupied U.S. territory for over a year before being routed at Attu. Not since the War of 1812 had a foreign battle been fought on American soil.

Like precarious stepping stones, the Aleutian Islands span the seas between the New and Old worlds – reaching westward from the Alaska Peninsula to within 500 miles of the Asian peninsula of Kamchatka. Situated between the Bering Sea and the Pacific Ocean, along the seam of the Pacific and American geologic plates, this 1,100 mile long archipelago has been, and continues to be, the focus of climatic and tectonic events. Conflicting weather systems generated in the bordering seas are responsible for severe cyclonic storms, heavy rains, and dense, impenetrable fog. Yearly precipitation averages fifty inches, with measurable rainfall occurring 200 days per annum. The Aleutian Chain’s foundation of shifting geologic plates results in active volcanism and earthquakes – the birth processes of the islands themselves. The Aleutians betray their violent origins in their rugged landscape: mountainous terrain, precipitous coastlines, and black sand beaches. It is thought that at least twenty-six of the Chain’s fifty-seven volcanoes have erupted within the past two centuries.

June through August, wildflowers cover the lush spongy subarctic tundra. Wild iris, orchids, violets, and alpine azalea are but a few of the island’s species that attract botanists and artists. In the fall, bushes are heavy with salmon berries and blueberries.

On some of the islands, such as Adak and Amaknak, there are a few coniferous trees growing, remnants of the Russian period. But while tall trees grow in many cold climates, Aleutian conifers—some of them estimated to be two hundred years old—rarely reach a height of even ten feet, and many of them are still less than five feet tall. This is because the islands, much like the Falklands and other islands of similar latitudes, experience such strong winds that taller trees are vulnerable to snapping off. Instead of trees, the islands are covered with a luxuriant, dense growth of herbage, including grasses, sedges and many flowering plants.

Sport fishing is very popular and charter boats regularly land record halibut. The Aleutian Islands are among the world’s richest fishing grounds.

Visitors to the area may explore the remaining structures and ruins, and sense the scope of the War effort mounted in the Aleutians to protect the United States from the Japanese invasion. The Aleutian World War II National Historic Site follows the historic footprint of the U.S. Army Fort Schwatka located at Ulakta Head on Mount Ballyhoo. The fort is one of four coastal defense posts built in 1942 and 1943 to protect the Dutch Harbor Naval Operating Base. The army built over a hundred buildings at Fort Schwatka. At 897 feet above sea level, the installations on Mount Ballyhoo were the highest coastal defenses built in the United States.

Backpacking, bird watching, fishing, hiking, Interpretive Programs, kayaking, and nature walks make for great outdoor adventures in these remote, but beautiful islands. All who have visited have been awed at the true wilderness and raw nature to be seen.

The Aleutian Islands are known for unpredictable and stormy weather. Rain, fog, and wind are common. Dress warmly and carry rain gear even in summer. Summer temperatures range from 45 to 65 degrees F. Early summer and fall often have clear sunny days with spectacular views of the surrounding volcanoes.

Current Weather

The area is very rugged and wild. Make sure you have proper equipment for the weather, especially if you will be backpacking. You should be self sufficient and have proper emergency gear and supplies for any contingency.

This dramatic environment supports the largest concentration of marine mammals in the world and a nesting seabird population greater than that found in the rest of the United States combined.

Birding watching in the Aleutians is world renown. Unalaska is one of the only places in the world to see the whiskered auklet. Puffins, cormorants, ancient murrelets and birds in breeding plumage, especially the snow bunting, can be seen in Unalaska.

Marine animals include whales, sea lions, sea otters, seals, shell fish, salmon, halibut, but not in the numbers that were historically there. Scientists are uncertain as tio the cause of the declines and are hopeful that they may be rebounding slowly.

A Land Use Permit must be obtained to visit this privately owned park. Permits can be purchased at the World War II Visitor Center located on Airport Road or Monday through Friday at the Ounalashka Corporation Office located at 400 Salmon Way. The fees range from free for veterans to $4.00.

There is no camping allowed within the historical grounds.

Aniakchak National Monument & Preserve is 400 miles away. Katmai National Park & Preserve is 550 miles away. Lake Clark National Park & Preserve is 675 miles away. Kenai Fjords National Park is 775 miles away. Unalaska and Barrow, AK have several surrounding attractions as well.

Anchorage is the nearest large urban center. It can be reached by air through commercial and charter flights from Anchorage.
Public transportation is available in the form of the Alaska Marine Highway (Ferry System).
The Aleutian World War II National Historic area can be accessed in the summer via an unimproved gravel switchback road from the city of Unalaska. In the winter you’ll need snowshoes or skis.

Ounalashka Corporation, P.O. Box 149, Unalaska, AK 99685
- or -
Superintendent, Alaska Affiliated Areas, 240 West 5th Avenue, Anchorage, AK 99501
Visitor Information (907) 581-1276
Visitor Center (907) 581-9944

Map

The Alagnak Wild River is a truly primitive environment with no federally-maintained public facilities. The NPS imposes no operating hours or seasonal restrictions. Access to and movement within the Alagnak Wild River corridor, however, may be limited or restricted at any time depending upon prevailing weather conditions.

You might float the Alagnak River today and hardly see another soul. But don’t be fooled—this resource-rich area has been home to human communities for thousands of years.

Archeologists surveying the river have found sites belonging to the Paleoarctic tradition (9,000 to 7,000 years ago). The oldest radiocarbon dated sites are about 2,300 years old. From these ancient campsites and villages all the way to modern fish camps, the Alagnak bears witness to the people who lived there. Prehistoric times were a productive time to live along the Alagnak. There was a substantial population of people living on the river’s bounty. Some inhabitants lived in settlements as small as 4 dwellings, while others lived in much larger villages with as many as 69 dwellings. Tiny chipped stone projectile points have been found at sites dating to 2,000 years old along the Alagnak Wild River. Archeologists believe that these are evidence of increased hunting with bow and arrow technology.

Modern Alutiiq people from Levelock, Iguigig, Naknek, and other villages make use of the Alagnak area for subsistence fishing, hunting, berry picking, and firewood gathering.

In June 1927 pilot Russell Merrill of Anchorage Air Transport flew a Travel Air to Lockanok cannery at the mouth of the Alagnak Wild River. This first airplane landing in the Bristol Bay region would effectively lead to a new era of air transport for this formerly inaccessible part of Alaska.

The headwaters of the Alagnak Wild River lie within the rugged Aleutian Range of neighboring Katmai National Park & Preserve. Meandering west towards Bristol Bay and the Bering Sea, the Alagnak traverses the beautiful Alaska Peninsula, providing an unparalleled opportunity to experience the unique wilderness, wildlife, and cultural heritage of southwest Alaska.

In the local language, the word Alagnak means “making mistakes.” According to a life-long area resident, “the channel is always changing, causing mistakes and getting lost.” Every year the river changes and branches, which is why it is known locally as “Branch River.”

There are a variety of vegetation along the Alagnak such as spruce, willows and many types of berry bushes (salmon berries, blackberries, blueberries, and cranberries). Fiddlehead ferns, wild celery, and sourdock are also present and collected by subsistence users. During a summer field survey, a total of 523 specimens were collected, recorded, and pressed. Approximately 130 species are new records for the area. A number of discoveries present significant range expansions of species. For example, a population of Dupontia fisheri, a tundra grass of northern and northwestern Alaska and northern Siberia, was found at Swikshak Lagoon over 200 miles east of its previously known range. Additionally, it is the first time it has been recorded in a woodland marsh in Alaska. Carex filifolia, a sedge, was found on a mountainous ridge above Swikshak Lagoon, approximately 450 miles to the southwest of its known range.

The Alagnak Wild River’s abundant wildlife and Class I-III rapids offer exciting opportunities for sightseers and adventure-seekers alike. Whether cruising, paddling, or floating, however, anglers will enjoy some of the most attractive sport fishing in the world. With significant populations of rainbow trout, arctic char, grayling, and sockeye and king salmon, the Alagnak has become the most popular destination for sport fishing in Southwest Alaska.

Sport fishing, commercial fishing, and subsistence fishing all occur on the Alagnak. All types of fishing are reliant upon the success of the salmon life cycle. The increasing sport fishery on the river is a topic of concern to many subsistence users and other local residents. Subsistence fishing on the Alagnak is for local rural residents only. During the summer camps are set up on the river and fish are gathered for smoking, salting, canning and freezing. Salmon harvested in the summer is the primary food source for subsistence users year round.

Meandering down the braided Alagnak, serenity and wildlife viewing opportunities abound for those lazily floating the river, while Class III rapids offer exciting trips for rafters. Rafting trips generally begin at Nonvianuk Lake or Kukaklek Lake, both of which are easily accessible via float plane. Rafters should coordinate their pick-up location and date with their transporter and should plan a fly-over of the river to scout for potential hazards and river conditions. There are many river sections suitable for take-out along the lower 30 miles of river. Parties being picked up near the Cutbank (Estrada’s camp) should be aware that this is private property; therefore, rafters should take out downstream or on the opposite side of the river. Please respect all private property along the Alagnak River.

Sport hunting, subsistence hunting, and trapping are authorized by the Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act (ANILCA) within the Alagnak Wild River corridor. Hunting is allowed in accordance with Alaska Department of Fish and Game (ADF&G) regulations for Game Management Unit 9C. Any wildlife killed in defense of life or property must be reported to ADF&G within 15 days. The meat of a game animal that you have legally taken becomes your property, but you may not kill another wild animal to protect the meat unless the meat is critical for your livelihood or survival.

Subsistence fishing on the Alagnak is for local rural residents only. During the summer camps are set up on the river and fish are gathered for smoking, salting, canning and freezing. Salmon harvested in the summer is the primary food source for subsistence users year round.

The Wild and Scenic Rivers Act of 1968 has fifteen management principles that river managers must adhere to; one of the principles is water quality. Part of the reason the Alagnak was designated as a “Wild” river was due to the fact that it was starting off at such a healthy, pristine level. To retain the “Wild” status over time that level of purity will have to be documented and maintained.

Consistent with the Clean Water Act, water quality in wild, scenic and recreational river areas will be maintained or, where necessary, improved to levels which meet Federal criteria or federally approved State standards for aesthetics and fish and wildlife propagation. River managers will work with local authorities to abate activities within the river area which are degrading or would degrade existing water quality.

The Wild and Scenic Rivers Act declared it a policy of the United States that “selected rivers of the Nation which, with their immediate environments, possess outstandingly remarkable scenic, recreational, geologic, fish and wildlife, historic, cultural, or other similar values, shall be preserved in free-flowing condition, and that they and their immediate environments shall be protected for the benefit and enjoyment of present and future generations.” By designating the Alagnak River, Congress mandated that the Alagnak Wild River be administered in such a manner as to protect and enhance the values which caused it to be included in said system without, insofar as is consistent therewith, limiting other uses that do not substantially interfere with public use and enjoyment of these values. Part of the reason the Alagnak was designated as a “Wild” river was due to the fact that it was starting off at such a healthy, pristine level. To retain the “Wild” status over time that level of purity will have to be documented and maintained.

Erosion of riverbanks from river currents and waves is a natural process. However, increased wave action due to motorboats has become a serious concern over the years with an increase in visitation to the Alagnak Wild River. Actively eroding and denuded riverbanks are especially vulnerable to further wave action as high banks composed of loose sand and gravel are undercut. Visitors using motorboats can help reduce continued erosion by significantly slowing their craft in areas where erosion is evident.

Weather in the Bristol Bay area tends to be cool, cloudy, and misty with frequent rain and wind. Day temperatures in the summer range between 50 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit while night temperatures may drop to 40 degrees Fahrenheit. The surface of the Alagnak freezes in the winter, but water continues to flow. Frozen overflow creates thin layers of dangerous ice which pose a hazard for those who attempt winter river travel. Whatever the season, weather conditions may prevent airplanes from flying in, so parties should be prepared for at least one extra day on the river. Wearing layers of clothing makes it easy to regulate your body temperature. Weather in all areas of the Alaska Peninsula can be both sudden and severe. Be prepared for extreme conditions at all times of the year and have the wisdom to alter your plans if necessary.

Current Weather

Visitors to the park should have rain gear including water-proof foot gear and clothing that retains warmth when wet, such as wool or synthetics. An insect-proof head net is also a must. Those camping should bring the necessary gear for wilderness. A good camping/backpacking list is: good quality tent with rainfly, sleeping bag, sleeping mat, matches, layered clothing, food (more then you need in case of delays or problems), water filtering system, collapsible water carrier, GPS, compass, topographical map, flashlight with extra batteries, campstove, fuel, bear proof container for food and perfumed items, signal whistle or mirror, first-aid kit, sunglasses, sunscreen, insect repellent, knife or multiuse tool, good hiking boots or water-proof footwear, repair kit, backpack, cooking pots, plastic bags to carry out garbage, tarp and possibly waders.

Campers are encouraged to make known their itinerary information. Visitors should leave itinerary information with a friend or family member. Be sure to include float plan details, the name of the trip leader, the air taxi operator’s name and contact information, type and color of equipment/clothing used, and anticipated date of return. The NPS will not initiate a search for an individual or group unless they are reported overdue. Alagnak users are also encouraged to submit the same information in a “Backcountry Planner,” available free-of-charge at the King Salmon Visitor Center. For their own safety and enjoyment, and for the continued health of the Alagnak environment, campers are encouraged to practice the Leave No Trace Principles of outdoor ethics.

The Alagnak is bear country! You can encounter substantial populations of brown bears in any area. It is critical that you know how to behave around bears. Avoid close encounters by remaining aware of your surroundings at all times. In order to minimize human-bear conflicts, it is critical that campers store food, trash, and any odorous items in bear-resistant containers (BRCs, or “bear barrels”). A limited supply of BRCs are available for temporary use, free-of-charge at the King Salmon Visitor Center. Hanging food is not encouraged as trees of appropriate height will not be available in what is essentially treeless tundra. Check out our Wildlife Precautions page for further safety tips.

Much of the land around the river is Native corporation land or private allotments, and most cabins are not on NPS land. Please do not enter private land without permission. If you encounter a cabin, historic debris, or an archeological site, please enjoy it, explore and take pictures! Resist the temptation to take artifacts or otherwise alter what you find. Your good stewardship will help preserve these historic places for future generations.

River Conditions will vary based on the season, amount of rainfall and temperatures. Generally water levels will be lowest in the spring and will increase as spring rains begin and snowmelt occurs in the high country. Water levels usually peak in July and will normally begin to recede in the fall. The surface of the Alagnak freezes in the winter, but water continues to flow. Frozen overflow creates thin layers of dangerous ice which pose a hazard for those who attempt winter river travel.

Due to heavy rainstorms and prolonged winds from the east can drive water out of Kukaklek and Nonvianuk Lakes and consequently increase water volume and velocity downstream. During periods of high water, it is possible to float the river in 1-2 days, but the conditions may make it difficult to find suitable camping sites. High water often results in increased turbidity and reduced fishing success, and may also increase the difficulty of the rapids on the upper Alagnak. Low water conditions can make travel difficult due to increased numbers of exposed rocks.

Wear Personal Floatation Devices (PFDs) and carrying self rescue equipment, including a throw rope. Survival gear and signaling devices are recommended. Extra warm clothing and sleeping bags should be packed in waterproof bags. Know the signs of hypothermia and be familiar with proper treatment techniques.

Hypothermia is the critical lowering of the body’s core temperature and is signaled by shivering, numbness, slurred speech, loss of coordination, drowsiness and exhaustion. Avoid hypothermia by eating plenty of high-calorie foods, drinking plenty of water and staying dry. Layer clothing appropriately for your level of activity to minimize sweating.

Firearms are permitted within the Alagnak Wild River corridor and in the adjacent Preserve portion of Katmai National Park and Preserve.

Wildlife is an important attribute of the Alagnak River, which is inhabited by a wide diversity of species typical of southwest Alaska. Large populations of brown bears are attracted to the area to feed on salmon spawning in the river. The Alagnak provides critical bear habitat during the summer and fall. Moose are attracted to riparian habitat, including the Alagnak River, during all four seasons. Most of the Alagnak River drainage west of Kukaklek and Nonvianuk Lakes provides winter habitat for caribou and moose. Furbearers found along the river include beaver, lynx, mink, otter, fox, wolverine, and occasionally wolf.

Other wildlife present is birds and fish. It is a great area for bird watching. Birds include tundra swans, double-crested cormorants,Red-throated Loon, Common Loon, Horned Grebe, northern fulmar, the osprey, bald and golden eagles, Peregrine Falcon, and black-bellied plovers, just to name a few. Fish species on the Alagnak are: king salmon, silver salmon, red salmon, chum salmon, rainbow trout, char, grayling, northern pike, Aleutian sculpin, slimy sculpin, Alaska blackfish, three spine stickleback, Japanese lamprey, round whitefish, and nine spine stickleback.

The life cycle of salmon vividly expresses the significance of one element within an ecosystem. Salmon are born in freshwater and remain there as long as 2 years until they are large enough to begin their long journey downstream to ocean waters. Salmon reside up to 3 years in the saltwater where they grow to be large fish with a silver sheen. Each summer, the five species of Pacific salmon return to their birthplace in the Alagnak River to spawn and die. As they migrate upstream by the hundreds of thousands, the salmon undergo incredible morphological changes. By the time a male sockeye salmon reaches its destination, it has turned a brilliant red and developed a distinctive humped back. Through this remarkable journey, salmon provide nutrients to support virtually every animal and plant species that call the Alagnak home. For example rainbow trout, Dolly Varden, char, and arctic char eat salmon eggs, juveniles and decaying salmon. As the carcasses decompose, they supply nutrients causing insect populations to thrive. Consequently, even the arctic grayling, a fish that eats primarily aquatic insects, benefits from the presence of salmon. In addition, many other species along the Alagnak such as the bald eagle and the Alaskan brown bear flourish as a result of the salmon’s extraordinary migration. Therefore, salmon populations must be carefully managed to ensure a healthy future for the Alagnak Wild River.

Do not feed or harass the wildlife. Since there are bears, moose and other wild animals frequently present along the river, please see Wildlife Precautions page for further information.

There are no fees for using the river itself.

Primitive camping is available, adding to your adventure trip. Permits are recommended for users and are available at no charge at the King Salmon Visitor Center.

Katmai National Park and Preserve, Aniakchak National Monument and Preserve and Becharof National Wildlife Refuge are a couple hundred miles awayfrom this river.

Charter flights are available from Anchorage and King Salmon or access via power boat from any of the villages along the river.

Alagnak Wild River, P.O. Box 7, King Salmon, AK 99611
Headquarters 907-246-3305
Fax 907-246-4286

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