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Noatak National Preserve

June 18th, 2009 No comments
Noatak National Preserve

Noatak National Preserve

The preserve is located in northwest Alaska

Noatak National Preserve could be the ultimate outdoor adventure trip for those interested in a true wilderness experience. Alaska truly is one of the last frontiers for exploring, especially in the Northwest Alaska Areas. You can chose from float-trip opportunities, whether canoeing, kayaking, or rafting; fishing and hunting expeditions; that hiking or backpacking trip into the wild; cross country skiing or dog mushing in winter; or for the tenacious photographer who just wants some great outdoor pictures, you can find it all in some of the most beautiful scenery and wildlife to be found in northwest Alaska.

Uniqueness

Noatak National Preserve, along with Cape Krusenstern National Monument and Kobuk Valley National Park, are known as the Northwest Alaska Areas. Encompassing 6.5 million acres, Noatak is the largest park area within the Western Arctic National Parklands, or Northwest Alaska Areas. Here you will experience one of the world’s finest remaining vast wilderness areas and it has been named an International Biosphere Reserve.

As one of North America’s largest mountain-ringed river basins with an intact ecosystem, the Noatak River environs features some of the Arctic’s finest arrays of plants and animals. The river is classified as a national wild and scenic river, and offers superlative wilderness float-trip opportunities – from deep in the Brooks Range to the tidewater of the Chukchi Sea. The preserve provides an excellent wilderness expedition for intermediate boaters with backcountry skills. Noatak offers fine canoeing, kayaking, rafting, fishing, hunting, and backpacking experiences.

In addition to protecting the Noatak River, valley and adjacent lands, the preserve also serves to protect the fish, wildlife, waterfowl, and archeological resources within its boundaries. The preserve also offers great bird watching, cross country skiing, dog mushing, and wildlife viewing.

Noatak National Preserve is open year around. The headquarters office is located in Kotzebue and the hours are 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM Monday through Friday. The Visitor Center, also located in Kotzebue, is open for the summer and hours of operation are Tuesday through Friday 12:00 PM to 8:00 PM, Saturday 12:00 PM to 4:00 PM, closed Sunday & Monday.

The preserve lies almost completely enclosed by the Baird and DeLong Mountains of the Brooks Range. Within the preserve ends the boreal forest, merging into treeless tundra on the valley’s southern edge. Linked to the wide area of the Northwest Alaska Areas is the wide-ranging, nomadic western arctic herd of barren ground caribou. Its aggregate numbers exceed 500,000 animals today. The tundra offers a thin veneer of life across which caribou must move to forage for adequate food and to reach the calving grounds. The herd is the second largest in North America. They can be seen each year crossing the Noatak River in their migration.

The entire Noatak River is located above the Arctic Circle. The glacier-fed headwaters of the Noatak are found in the rugged Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve. This is where the swiftest and most hazardous water of the river is found. The upper Noatak flows through a series of glacial moraines, characterized by stretches of broad floodplain and gentle gradient alternating with boulder choked rapids and steep bluffs.

Farther along, as the river enters the Noatak National Preserve, the valley floor widens into the broad plateau of tundra country. Here, the landscape is dotted with ponds and marshes inhabited by moose, grizzly bears, wolverine, caribou, wolves, Dall sheep and nesting waterfowl. Distant mountains border the valley. In this, the middle section of the river, the Noatak maintains a swift current, averaging between five and eight miles per hour. In contrast, the lower portion of the river is slow and braided.

Whitefish, grayling, arctic char, salmon, and pike are among the fish which inhabit the waters of the preserve. An Alaskan fishing license is required to fish the rivers. Fishing can be good when rivers are clear and fish are running.

The most common method of visiting the preserve is by floating the Noatak River. The larger tributaries of the Noatak-the Cutler, Kelly, Nimiuktuk and Kugururok Rivers-are also suitable for floating. Folding boats and rubber rafts are the most practical for a floating trip, as they can more easily be fit into a small plane for transport to the river. The rafting is rated Class I-II. The trip length is up to 347 miles, so allow any where from 7 days to 3 weeks to float the river. The season runs June through September.

The native village of Noatak is several miles downriver from the preserve’s southwestern boundary. With a current population of 350, Noatak is the only village on the river. Originally a hunting and fishing camp, it became a permanent settlement in the 19th century. As they have been for thousands of years, the lands encompassed by the preserve are still used by the Inupiaq Eskimos of the region for subsistence hunting, fishing and gathering.

Expect high winds throughout the year and short, mild, cool sunny summers. You can also expect to experience 24 hours of daylight for one month and a long, severe, harsh, extremely cold winter with about one hour of daylight by December 1. Arctic winter conditions – snow, ice, wind, and below-freezing temperatures exist in the park from October through April. Snow or freezing temperatures may occur any time, even in summer. The area receives 10-12″ precipitation annually.

It’s best to possess good backcountry skills for wilderness survival. Know and test your gear before you take your trip. Leave your itinerary with someone and notify that person when you complete your trip. Winter travel is recommended only to those experienced in arctic camping and survival techniques.

Any time of the year, exposure and hypothermia are real threats to visitors and park personnel. Early symptoms are slurred speech, trembling, exhaustion, stumbling and impaired judgment. Above all, keep warm and dry! If you get wet, hypothermia is likely to follow. If you become wet, stop hiking and find a dry spot out of the wind, rain, or cold. Remove wet garments and add layers of dry warm clothing. Drink plenty of liquids (not alcohol). In more advanced cases, remove clothing and climb into a dry sleeping bag, stay awake, and share body heat with others. Advanced hypothermia is difficult to treat properly, creating a serious situation, so prevention is your best bet. Make sure all members of your party are aware of the symptoms of hypothermia and look out for each other.
For back country hiking/camping, wear plenty of warm clothing (no cotton), dress in layers, and use rain gear. Wear sturdy hiking boots and waders for wet terrain. Be prepared with high energy snacks, plenty of water or tablets to treat water/boiling water for 1 minute (Giardia lamblia can be a problem), a change of dry clothing and a waterproof bag to keep them dry, a warm coat, gloves, high-quality equipment-compass, backpack, tent, GPS, campstove, multipurpose tool, knife, signal device, hiking boots, first-aid kit, extra food in case you are stuck somewhere longer than planned, and head nets and/or repellent in summer for mosquitoes.

While hiking, take careful note of the direction you’re traveling, of prominent landmarks and approximate distances you have walked. Frequently ask yourself if you could find your way back under conditions of low clouds, rain or snow. Take careful compass bearings on the next day’s proposed route before retiring. Inform all your party of the planned route, campsite, and general direction of travel in the event you become separated. If you become lost, don’t panic; stop and plan carefully. If you become separated from your group, stay where you are or move a short distance to the point where you were last in contact with the group. If alone, climb high to look for familiar landmarks. If you find no familiar landmarks or rivers, stay in one place and remain in the open. Bright signals or objects placed in sequence of three are widely recognized as distress signs.

If you encounter an injured or ill person, remain calm. Quickly give whatever first-aid is required to stabilize the person and protect them from the elements. It may be some time before assistance arrives. Mark where they are located with a brightly colored material, in the open, so the person can be located from the air. Write down the nature of the injury/illness; condition and name, home address, phone number, sex and age of the person; what rescue equipment will be needed; exact location and type of terrain; and any information about a Medic-Alert tag, bracelet, or wallet card with ID number that the person may have. Then, quickly go or send for help. If you are injured or ill, conserve your energy and body heat. Stay by a water supply and remain calm, think, plan, and organize.

Many natives use the land in subsistence living. They are protected and you should honor their hunting and fishing areas by not invading, destroying or in any way interfering with them. Always check with the visitor center as to the whereabouts of private land and get permission from the owners before camping there.

Map

Grizzly and black bears are common to the preserve. They are unpredictable and dangerous. Never surprise them or approach closely; stay cautious and alert at all times. See the Wildlife Precautions page for more information about protecting yourself.

There are no fees for this area.

All camping is wilderness camping. Be sure to use the Leave-No-Trace procedures. Tundra and river beds are used for camping, however, use the river beds with caution. Rapid changes in river levels can occur without warning. Camp only where escape routes are available to safe, higher ground. Keep your gear above the river level and secure boats and other floatable items. Tents should be able to withstand high winds and have a rainfly. A campstove is recommended. Campfires are permitted, but downed wood may be hard to find. Live tree cutting is not permitted.

Commercial airlines provide service from Anchorage or Fairbanks to Nome or Kotzebue. From Kotzebue to the Parklands, fly with various air taxi operators. There are scheduled flights to villages and chartered flights to specific park areas. Summer access may include motorized/non-motorized watercraft, aircraft, or by foot. Winter access may include snowmobiles, aircraft or by foot.

National Park Service, PO Box 1029, Kotzebue, AK 99752
Headquarters 907-442-3890
Summer Visitor Information 907-442-3760
By Fax 907-442-8316

Map

Lake Clark National Park and Preserve

June 18th, 2009 No comments
This is page 1 of a 2 page post.
Lake Clark National Park and Preserve

Lake Clark National Park and Preserve

The park is located in South-central Alaska with part of it along the coast

Lake Clark National Park and Preserve offers tremendous outdoor adventure for those seeking a unique family vacation. Although an airplane ride is the usual way to get there, it is still worth the effort. There is wilderness hiking and backpacking, great fishing, white water rafting and kayaking, beautiful scenery, glaciers, and tons of wildlife to see. Check below for further Lake Clark National Park and Preserve information.

Uniqueness

Lake Clark National Park and Preserve embodies the great circle of time and life. Coastal cliffs on Cook Inlet hold fossil remnants of 150 million years of sea life; but, 10,000 feet above them, two active, snow-clad volcanoes-Iliamna and Redoubt-can spew out recycled Earth crust as new land surfaces. Mountain glaciers daily pluck and etch the spectacular scenery here where mountains of the Alaska and Aleutian ranges join. An awesome, jagged array, the park’s Chigmit Mountains record centuries and millennia of crustal uplift, intrusion, earthquakes, volcanism, and glacial gouging, scouring, and mounding. Continuously inhabited since early prehistoric times, this region nevertheless remains wild and sparsely populated by humans. Its several ecosystems suggest many diverse regions across Alaska. Lake Clark, 40 miles long, and many other lakes and rivers within the park are critical salmon habitat to the Bristol Bay salmon fishery, one of the largest sockeye salmon fishing grounds in the world. Numerous lake and river systems in the park and preserve offer excellent fishing and wildlife viewing.

A serendipitous feature of the park is that its varied topography offers something for everyone. Contrast seashores with glacial valleys, gentle tundra foothills with colorful, glacier fed, alpine lakes. Adventures here await those who take the first step. Twin Lakes has tree and brush covered valley slopes, plus dry tundra rising to open ridge tops, which offer excellent hiking and views. Twin Lakes is a popular spot in the park for several reasons. It offers relatively easy travel, good fishing, opportunities for wildlife viewing and photography, and superb scenery. The park service has a backcountry patrol cabin on the lower lake that is usually staffed all summer. Fly-in, day use fishing parties compete with raft groups for the start of the Chilikadrotna’s waters. A few backpackers or campers are likely to be exploring this area as well. Turquoise Lake is higher in elevation with tundra vegetation and generally less wildlife. It has dramatic scenery with Telaquana Mountain rising sharply from its northeast shore and vivid turquoise blue water. Offering few havens from wind and weather, it is less visited but offers excellent hiking in all directions.

Looking for more rugged and remote areas for backpacking epics? Heinous hiking into or over the Alaska Range via glacial river bars, or multi-day trips from Telaquana Lake, Two Lakes, or Kenibuna Lake are possibilities. Mountaineering skills opens up a whole other world, including glaciers and unclimbed, unnamed peaks.

Wilderness travel, backpacking, cross-country hiking, rafting/kayaking, wildlife viewing, hunting and fishing are the primary activities in Lake Clark National Park and Preserve. The park also offers bird watching, boating, camping, climbing, cross country skiing, dogmushing, nature walks, snow skiing, snowmobiling, and snowshoeing. The National Preserve is an area adjacent to the park where sport hunting is allowed. Subsistence living is allowed within the park for residents. Black and Grizzly bears, Caribou, Moose and Dall sheep are present throughout the area.

Star gazing in Alaska can be very rewarding, if you like the cold. In the fall and winter the night skies are beautiful. You see more stars than could be imagined. Also to be seen are the Northern Lights. The Northern Lights or Aurora Borealis are caused by solar winds that carry particles from the sun across space and hit the earth’s atmosphere. When the particles hit the earth’s atmosphere they release energy in the form of light, the Northern Lights. The best place to see the Northern Lights is around Fairbanks, Alaska, though most of Alaska is a good place.

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Kobuk Valley National Park

June 18th, 2009 1 comment
kobuk-valley

Kobuk Valley National Park

The park is located in a broad valley along the central Kobuk River in Northwest Alaska

Kobuk Valley National Park is a unique Alaskan park with much to offer in outdoor adventure. Whether it is hiking the unusual sand dunes, fishing the great rivers or the many ways of boating down the Kobuk River, you are sure to have a great family vacation. Check below for further Kobuk Valley National Park information to help plan your next travel adventure!

Uniqueness

Kobuk Valley National Park is encircled by the Baird and Waring mountain ranges and is part of the Western Arctic National Parklands. The park provides protection for several important geographic features, including the central portion of the Kobuk River, the 25-sqaure-mile Great Kobuk Sand Dunes, and the Little Kobuk and Hunt River dunes.
The Great Kobuk Sand Dunes, reaching up to 150-250 feet, are an easy hike from the Kobuk River.

Throughout the year educational and interpretive programs are offered at the Kotzebue Public Lands Information Center. Activities include camping, hiking, backpacking, wildlife observations, cross country skiing, dogmushing, fishing, boating, kayaking, canoeing, and photography. Visit the Onion Portage archeological site to learn the history of native people who have lived along the Kobuk for at least 12,000 years. There are artifacts from every known Eskimo occupation of North America. Botanical research studies along the Squirrel River, a major tributary of the Kobuk River, have revealed several rare plants such as an aster, a sour dock, and an artic locoweed.

The fishing can be good when the rivers are high and the fish are running. There are grayling, artic char, sheefish, salmon, pike, and whitefish. An Alaska fishing license is required for all persons, 16 years of age and older. The Salmon River is classified as a national wild and scenic river where motorboats, kayaks, canoes and rafts are all used for a variety of floating experiences. The Kobuk River offers some of North America’s finest waters for wilderness expeditions.

Kobuk Valley National Park is open year around. The headquarters office hours are 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM Monday through Friday and it is located in Kotzebue. The Visitor Center, also located in Kotzebue, is open for the summer and hours of operation are Tuesday through Friday 12:00 PM to 8:00 PM, Saturday 12:00 PM to 4:00 PM, and closed Sunday & Monday.

Sand created by the grinding action of ancient glaciers has been carried to the Kobuk Valley by both wind and water. One of the most popular destinations, the Great Sand Dunes is an active, eolian, sand dune system covering 23.5 square miles. They consist of transverse and barchan dunes that can swell to heights of 250 feet or more. Bordered on the south by the Waring Mountains and Kavet Creek on the west, dunes now cover much of the southern portion of the Kobuk Valley, where they are naturally stabilized by vegetation. They continue to move west, pushed by easterly winds. The Little Kobuk Sand Dunes are located further southeast and only cover approximately 2.3 square miles. The existing dune fields could be a relic of a much larger, post glacial dune field. It is uncertain how large that may be, but geological research indicates that the current vegetation covers more than 300 square miles of ancient dunes. River bluffs, composed of sand and standing as high as 150 feet, hold permafrost ice wedges and the fossils of Ice Age mammals.

Geologists, archeologists and palynologists have all studied the sand dunes to learn about life before and after glaciation periods. The sand dune systems that exist today in Alaska’s arctic and subarctic could provide us with a link between pre-glacial ecosystems and our current ecosystem. It could be that what we see today closely mimics the scenery of times past as people migrated across the continent after the glaciers melted.

The park is 1.7 million acres of land sitting in a semi-enclosed bowl about 30 miles north of the Arctic Circle. The southern portion is the Kobuk Valley Wilderness Area which covers 190,000 acres. The boreal forest reaches its northern limit here, resulting in open woodland of small trees in a mat of thick tundra. Flora found on the dunes include many colorful species such as Siberian Asters, yellow chrysanthemums, wormwood, Eskimo Potato, bearberry and more. Surrounding the dunes, you will see white spruce, paper birch, alder shrubs, blueberry bushes, willow shrubs, Quaking Aspen and many species of lichen and moss. Kobuk Valley National Park was set up to protect and maintain the environment and interpret archeological sites associated with native cultures. As such, natural and archeological objects are protected and can not be removed.

Native people have lived along the Kobuk for at least 9,000 years. Their history is best recorded at the onion portage archeological site, situated along the Kobuk River in the southeastern corner of the park. Within the many stratified layers of silt deposited by the Kobuk River at Onion Portage are featured, in chronological order, artifacts from every known Eskimo occupation of North America. Today, five of the ten villages in Northwest Alaska are found along the banks of the Kobuk River-from Noorvik, only 30 miles from where the river pours out into Hotham Inlet (known locally as Lake Kobuk) to Kobuk, more than 200 miles inland. In between, the villages of Kiana, Ambler and Shungnak can be found. The upper villages are often used as starting points for float trips.

Together with Cape Krusenstern National Monument and Noatak National Preserve, Kobuk National Park is linked to the wide-ranging, nomadic western arctic herd of barren ground caribou. Their aggregate numbers exceed 500,000 animals today. The tundra offers a thin veneer of life across which caribou must move to forage for adequate food. In summer the land is covered with a profusion of low-growing plants, including dwarfed ground willows, saxifrage, lupines, reindeer moss, and lichens. Native peoples were often nomadic, following the caribou migrations. Throughout these parklands, local residents still pursue caribou hunting, fishing, trapping, and other subsistence activities. Special provisions of the legislation establishing these Alaska parklands allow local people to continue these activities. Many residents rely significantly on locally harvested animals, fish, and plants for satisfying basic food needs. The Inupiat people traditionally valued the land so that, through wise use over thousands of years, its resources and productivity were carefully preserved for the benefit of future generations. The national park has a compatible mission-to be good stewards of the vast reaching northwest Alaska for the enjoyment and use of this and coming generations.

Other animals to be found in the park are muskoxen, a prehistoric looking animal that is a relic of the Ice Age; wolverines, reindeer, wolves, porcupines, moose, and black and grizzly bears.

The Kotzebue basin boasts a wide and diverse collection of over 150 species of birds for the bird watching fans. Of particular interest is the diversity of the migratory songbirds. Ravens, Sandhill cranes, arctic terns, and gray jays are just a few of the many birds to be seen. Many of the breeding songbirds in Northwest Alaska migrate from wintering habitats in South America and Eastern Asia. Some come as far as Africa. Geographically, the southern species are referred to as Neotropical (New World) migrants and the Asian species as Paleartic (Old World) migrants. A banding program has been in effect since 1994 in an effort to track valuable biological data.

Taking a trip down the Kobuk River with a folding kayak or canoe, canoe, or an inflatable kayak promises to be an unforgettable wilderness experience. The river gets up to 1,500 feet wide in places and has areas where it falls only 2 to 3 inches per mile. The trip is anywhere from 125-260 miles and can take from 6-20 days to complete. There are areas that have to be portaged. The rapids in the river run from Class II to Class V.

In the upper Kobuk and its tributaries, hiking opportunities are excellent as the trees are widely spaced and the forest floor forms a soft mat of lichens. The upper and middle regions offer spectacular scenery. To the south lie the wind sculpted Kobuk Sand Dunes. There are no trails or roads within the park.

Expect high winds throughout the year and short, mild, cool sunny summers. The coast line areas are primarily a maritime climate, while the interior areas are more of a continental climate. The interior has greater variation in temperature and precipitation. There are 24 hours of daylight for one month in the summer with average temperatures in the 50’s along the coast line and 90’s by the sand dunes. A long, severe, harsh, extremely cold winter with about one hour of daylight and temperatures from -10 to -65 degrees can be experienced by December 1. The area receives 10-12″ precipitation annually on the coast by Kotzebue and 16-20 inches inland by the village of Kobuk. Arctic winter conditions – snow, ice, wind, and below-freezing temperatures exist in the park from October through April. Snow or freezing temperatures may occur any time, even in summer. The “freeze up,” where the water freezes solid in winter, occurs in mid-October and the “breakup”, where the ice breaks up into pieces and moves down river or out to sea, occurs in late May inland and as late as the third week in June along the coast.

This is a vast area subject to harsh weather, high winds, rain and snow. Guard against hypothermia, an all-season killer. Take plenty of warm clothing and enough food, water, clothing and equipment for at least one extra day. Have at least one extra set of warm, dry clothes in case one set gets wet. Pack clothes, sleeping bags and sleeping pads in waterproof bags. Eat high calorie foods. Drink plenty of fluids to stay hydrated.

For back country hiking/camping, wear plenty of warm clothing, dress in layers (not cotton), and use rain gear. Wear sturdy hiking boots and waders for wet terrain. Clothing and camp gear should be of good quality. Tents should be able to withstand strong winds and have rain flies. Always carry extra food and water in case your transportation cannot pick you up as scheduled. A campstove is recommended. Campfires are permitted, but downed wood can be difficult to find. Live tree cutting is not permitted. Also bring sleeping bag and mat, water filtering system, collapsible water container, 2 quart water bottle, first aid kit, repair kit for your gear, flashlight with extra batteries and bulb, fuel, toilet kit, topographical map, compass, GPS unit, signal mirror or whistle, multipurpose tool or knife, and cooking utensils.

Mosquitoes and biting flies are prevalent, especially in the summer months, so head nets and repellent are recommended. Drinking water needs to be boiled for one minute before use as Giardia lamblia can be a problem. Some areas in the backcountry have sparse water supplies so you will need to bring your own.

You must possess good wilderness skills for survival. Know and test your gear before you arrive. For your safety, leave your itinerary with someone and notify that person when you complete your trip. Winter travel can be recommended only to those experienced in artic camping and survival techniques. While hiking, take careful note of the direction you’re traveling, of prominent landmarks and approximate distances you have walked. Frequently ask yourself if you could find your way back under conditions of low clouds, rain or snow. Take careful compass bearings on the next day’s proposed route before retiring. Inform all your party of the planned route, campsite, and general direction of travel in the event you become separated. If you become lost, don’t panic; stop and plan carefully. If you become separated from your group, stay where you are or move a short distance to the point where you were last in contact with the group. If alone, climb high to look for familiar landmarks. If you find no familiar landmarks or rivers, stay in one place and remain in the open. Bright signals or objects placed in sequence of three are widely recognized as distress signs.

If you encounter an injured or ill person, remain calm. Quickly give whatever first-aid is required to stabilize the person and protect them from the elements. It may be some time before assistance arrives. Mark where they are located with a brightly colored material, in the open, so the person can be located from the air. Write down the nature of the injury/illness; condition and name, home address, phone number, sex and age of the person; what rescue equipment will be needed; exact location and type of terrain; and any information about a Medic-Alert tag, bracelet, or wallet card with ID number that the person may have. Then, quickly go or send for help. If you are injured or ill, conserve your energy and body heat. Stay by a water supply and remain calm, think, plan, and organize.

Current Weather

Grizzly and black bears are common to the park. They are unpredictable and dangerous. Never surprise them or approach closely. Stay cautious and alert at all times. Make a lot of noise-loud talking, ringing a bell, or shaking stones in a can. If you meet a bear, yield the right-of-way by moving slowly away, not running. Clean camps are essential to reduce bear problems. Foods, lotions, toothpaste, and shaving cream and their odors attract bears. Keep your sleep area and cooking areas separate. Store food and scented articles in airtight containers. Leave foods such as bacon and smoked fish at home. Burn and carry out all garbage. It is legal to carry a firearm for bear protection. A .300-Magnum rifle or a 12-gauge shotgun with rifled slugs is appropriate weapons if you have to shoot a bear. Heavy handguns such as a .44 Magnum may be inadequate in emergency situations, especially in untrained hands. However, firearms should never be used as an alternative to common-sense approaches to bear encounters. Also, a misplaced bullet may enrage the bear and cause a more severe attack. See the Wildlife Precautions page for further information.

No fees are charged.

There are no formal campgrounds. The available camping is wilderness camping. Kotzebue has a number of small stores where some basic goods can be purchased. Tundra and river bars are often used to camp. Use the river bars with caution as rapid changes in water can occur without warning. Camp only where escape routes are available to safe, higher ground. Keep gear above the river level and secure boats and other floatable items. Practice the Leave No Trace outdoor ethics. Camping is not permitted where it would interrupt subsistence activities or on private property without the owner’s consent. Private property usually is located along the rivers and beaches.

Cape Krusenstern National Monument, Noatak National Preserve, Selawik National Wildlife Refuge, Bering Land Bridge National Preserve, Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve, Koyukuk National Wildlife Refuge and Inupiat Heritage Center in Barrow AK are all great places to check out.

Commercial airlines provide service from Anchorage or Fairbanks to Nome and Kotzebue. From either location, visitors may fly with various air taxi operators. There are scheduled flights to villages and chartered flights to specific park areas. Summer access may include motorized/non-motorized watercraft, aircraft, or by foot. Winter access may include snowmobiles, aircraft or by foot.

Kobuk Valley National Park, PO Box 1029, Kotzebue, AK 99752
Headquarters-907-442-3890
Summer Visitor Information-907-442-3760
By Fax 907-442-8316

Map

Klondike Gold Rush National Historic Park Information

June 18th, 2009 No comments
Klondike Gold Rush National Historic Park

Klondike Gold Rush National Historic Park

The park is located in southeast Alaska

The Klondike Gold Rush National Historic Park offers extreme outdoor adventure for those equipped for mountain backpacking. The Chilkoot Trail allows you a chance to experience what the gold seekers went through to try and fulfill their dreams. But don’t worry if you’re not as adventurous as they were because there are plenty of other things to do in this special park! Check below for great Klondike Gold Rush National Historic Park information to see what else is available.

Uniqueness

The Klondike Gold Rush National Historic Park celebrates the Klondike Gold Rush of 1897-98 through 15 restored buildings within the Skagway Historic District. The park also administers the Chilkoot Trail and a small portion of the White Pass Trail. Included in the park is a portion of the Dyea Town site at the foot of the Chilkoot Trail.

With cries of “Gold! Gold! in the Klondike!” there unfolded in the Yukon and Alaska a brief but fascinating adventure, which has captured the imagination of people around the world ever since. In August 1896 when Skookum Jim Mason, Dawson Charlie and George Washington Carmack found gold in a tributary of the Klondike River in Canada’s Yukon Territory, they had no idea they would set off one of the greatest gold rushes in history. Beginning in 1897, an army of hopeful gold seekers, unaware that most of the good Klondike claims were already staked, boarded ships at Seattle and other Pacific port cities and headed north toward the vision of riches to be had for the taking. All through the summer and on into the winter of 1897-98, stampeders poured into the newly created Alaskan tent and shack towns of Skagway and Dyea – the jumping off points for the 600-mile trek to the goldfields.

The most challenging way to follow in the footsteps of the stampeders is by backpacking the 33-mile-long Chilkoot Trail, accessible only on foot. It is difficult hiking and usually takes three to five days. The backpacking trail begins at the Taiya River Bridge near the Dyea town site and travels over the Chilkoot Pass to Lake Bennett.

Other activities available at the park include snow skiing, cross country skiing, snowshoeing, snowmobiling, wildlife viewing, hunting, kayaking, fishing, dog mushing, bird watching, backpacking, boating, and horseback riding. This is just a handful of activities to enjoy there.

Winter hours for the park are (October – April) offices open 8 AM to 5 PM weekdays, except holidays. The summer (May – September) visitor center is open 8 AM to 6 PM daily including holidays.

Skagway, at the head of the White Pass Trail, was founded by a former steamboat captain named William Moore. His small homestead was inundated with some 10,000 transient residents struggling to get their required year’s worth of gear and supplies over the Coast Range and down the Yukon River headwaters at lakes Lindeman and Bennett. Dyea, three miles away at the head of Taiya Inlet, experienced the same frantic boomtown activity as gold seekers poured ashore and picked their way up the Chilkoot Trail into Canada.

Stampeders faced their greatest hardships on the Chilkoot Trail out of Dyea and the White Pass Trail out of Skagway. There were murders and suicides, disease and malnutrition, and death from hypothermia, avalanche, and, some said heartbreak. The Chilkoot was the toughest on men because pack animals could not be used easily on the steep slopes leading to the pass. Until tramways were built late in 1897 and early 1898, the stampeders had to carry everything on their backs. The White Pass Trail was the animal-killer, as anxious prospectors overloaded and beat their pack animals and forced them over the rocky terrain until they dropped. More than 3,000 animals died on this trail; many of their bones still lie at the bottom on Dead Horse Gulch.

During the first year of the rush an estimated 20,000 to 30,000 gold seekers spent an average of three months packing their outfits up the trails and over the passes to the lakes. The distance from tidewater to the lakes was only about 35 miles, but each individual trudged hundreds of miles back and forth along the trails, moving gear from cache to cache. Once the prospectors had hauled their full array of gear to the lakes, they built or bought boats to float the remaining 560 or so miles downriver to Dawson City and the Klondike mining district where an almost limitless supply of gold nuggets was said to lie. By midsummer of 1898 there were 18,000 people at Dawson, with more than 5,000 working the diggings. By August many of the stampeders had started for home, most of them broke. The next year saw a still larger exodus of miners when gold was discovered at Nome, Alaska. The great Klondike Gold Rush ended as suddenly as it had begun. Towns such as Dawson City and Skagway began to decline. Others, including Dyea, disappeared altogether, leaving only memories of what many consider to be the last grand adventure of the 19th century.

The only National Park Service hiking trail in Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park is the Chilkoot trail. It runs through US and Canadian lands. There is a transportation service at the end of the trail at Bennett to Skagway, Alaska, or Fraser, B. C. It must be noted that this trail is not for beginners.

Skagway is a good starting point for several interesting day hikes and longer hiking trips as well. These are found on Forest Service or other public lands, but are neither maintained nor patrolled by NPS personnel. Gold Rush Cemetery and Lower Reid Falls is a 4 miles (6.4 km) round trip, easy hike, to where else-a cemetery and spectacular water fall. Sturgill’s Landing is a 7 mile round trip moderately strenuous hike that meanders south through a mixed stand of spruce, hemlock and lodgepole pine and skirts around boggy areas that may be muddy. You should be able to see the ruins of a saw mill across the creek. Lower Dewey Lake is 0.7 mile (1.1km) to lake; 2 miles (3.2 km) around lake and is rated moderate. To see Icy Lake and Upper Reid Falls, involves hiking 7 miles round trip on a steep to moderate trail. Yakutania Point is an easy 1-2 mile round trip hike where you can pack a picnic lunch and enjoy it at Smugglers Cove. There are six longer backpacking trips ranging from 2-10 miles, some off of other trails, with 2 leading to glaciers. These trails are moderate to strenuous.

Most anthropologists consider that the area immediately surrounding the three Alaska units of Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park is the traditional territory of the Chilkoot division of the Tlingit Indians. Many consider that the Coast Mountains have served as the tribal barrier between the Coastal Tlingits and the inland Athapaskan (“Stick”) tribes. The area in and around the Park was relatively lightly populated by the local Natives. At Dyea, there probably existed a small fishing and hunting camp–possibly permanent but more likely seasonal–near the mouth of the Taiya River. The Taiya and Nourse River valleys were used by Natives in pursuit of goats, bear and other game. Little evidence remains of their long occupation. In the early 1980s, investigators turned up three pre-contact aboriginal sites, each being small midden mounds, on a hill overlooking Dyea. Then, in the mid-1990s, archeologists located several rock shelters on the hill between Sheep Camp and the Scales; one, perhaps all, were used decades before Europeans began traversing the trail.

Before the Taiya River Valley became an active route for the gold stampeders, the Tlingit used the route to trade with the Athabascans in the Interior. After contact, the Tlingit acted as middlemen for a thriving trade in local and Euro American goods between the interior and Russian, Boston and Hudson’s Bay trading companies. The Tlingit used the Chilkoot Trail as their main trading route in the interior and defended their monopoly, not permitting others to use the passes and even burning Fort Selkirk in the Yukon in 1852 when the Hudson’s Bay Company attempted to trade directly with the interior groups. In 1879, US Navy Commander L.A. Beardsley reached an agreement with the Tlingit whereby miners would be permitted to reach the Yukon via the passes but would not interfere with their regular trade. Tlingit guides accompanied the first party over in May 1880, and transported the miners’ gear for a fee. This trip set the foundation for the Tlingit packing business, which thrived until the Gold Rush.

Located at the head of the Chilkoot trail, Dyea erupted from a small trading post to a major port in 1897 after word of the Klondike gold discovery reached Seattle and San Francisco. Unfortunately, its prosperity proved to be short-lived. The town’s poor harbor, the disastrous snow slide of April 3, 1898, and the construction of the White Pass and Yukon Route Railroad out of Skagway all served to doom the town. Fewer than 500 people remained after the summer of 1898, and the 1903 population had fallen to about a half dozen including E.A.Klatt, who farmed the once busy streets, growing vegetables for the Skagway market. Since the rush, nature has proven unkind to Dyea. The Taiya River has shifted several times, washing old buildings into the sea, and the rainforest climate of southeast Alaska has caused many buildings to collapse and rot. Today you can tour the Dyea town site with a Ranger.

Activities available at the park include snow skiing, cross country skiing, snowshoeing, snowmobiling, wildlife viewing, hunting, kayaking, fishing, dog mushing, bird watching, backpacking, boating, and horseback riding.

Weather conditions above tree line change quickly and can be more extreme as elevation is gained. Rain, fog, high winds, snow and sleet can be expected in summer months. Temperatures may drop below freezing at night and should be anticipated. Come dressed in layers and prepared for both hypothermic and dry hot environmental conditions. The occasional sunny day will still warrant sunscreen and sunglasses. Summers are generally cool and dry. It is often windy in Skagway. Jackets are recommended. Skagway is rainy in September. Conditions on the Chilkoot pass can have snowfall up to 200 inches per year and winter temperatures that can dip to -50°F

When hiking Chilkoot Trail, remember to bring this backpacking checklist: Trail Permit, arrangements for travel to and from the trailheads, lightweight tent, backpack, sleeping bag and mat, a detailed trail map, compass, signal mirror or whistle, clothing for all weather conditions (snow, rain, wind, etc.), food, fuel and stove (enough for trip plus one day), matches, sunglasses, sunscreen, insect repellent, wide brimmed hat, extra socks, water bottle(s) and purification kit, 30′ (9m) of cordage and storage sack to hang food from bear poles or an approved bear-proof container, first aid kit, personal hygiene kit (medications, toothbrush, toilet paper, etc.); and early season hiking (before June 15) may also require additional equipment: i.e. snow shoes, ice axe, avalanche transceiver, etc. Bring the proper gear you will need to complete the trail. Be familiar with your equipment before you start out. Please come prepared because there are few retailers that carry the above items in Skagway. Be sure to read the current trail report and inquire about bear activity on the trail. This is a difficult hike and should not be done as a first time backpacking trip. Stop in at the Visitor Center. Chances are you will be greeted by a ranger who walks our nearby trails when off duty. Pick up a hiking map at the Visitor Center and find which trails best match your requirements with current conditions. Remember to use the Leave-No-Trace principles.

U.S. Park Service Rangers and Parks Canada Wardens conduct daily patrols along the Chilkoot Trail and base operations out of Sheep Camp on the U.S. side and Lindeman City on the Canada side of the trail. Cell phones do not work on the trail. Satellite phones may function in some areas. Hazards exist along the trail during certain conditions. Watch out for avalanche possibilities, flooding of the trail and weakened and hazardous snow bridges over concealed running water. That’s why it is important to get up-to-date trail information before hiking. Trail users should be self-sufficient and prepared to handle emergencies independently, as assistance may be hours to a day away. Helicopter medical evacuations from the trail may cost up to $1500. Trail hikers are advised to consult their medical insurance policies before starting their hike.

Current Weather

Bears are encountered frequently along the Chilkoot Trail. Stay on the trail and travel in groups, if possible. Use food storage devices that are located at all of the designated camping areas and bring 30 feet of rope for the bear poles. For your safety cook at or in the warming shelters, so as to keep food smells away from your tent site. Also, please do not leave your pack unattended at any point along the trail. A quick visual sweep after you are ready to leave camp will help to insure that no garbage, food or personal belongings are left behind. Pack out all garbage! Do not place wrappers and trash in the toilet cribs or wood stoves! See Wildlife Precaution page for further information.

There are no park entrance fees.

Permits to camp at Dyea Campground are $6.00/site/night.

Permits to hike the full Chilkoot Trail trip is $52.50/adult, $26.25/youth (ages 5-16). Permits for the US trail area only are $17.85 per adult; $8.95 per youth. The Canada only side trip permit is $34.65 per adult; $17.30 per youth.
Canada charges a Day Permit fee of $9.00 per hiker. There is no fee for day trips in the US.

Reservation fee: $11.85 per hiker in addition to permit fee.

Dyea Campground is a 22 site rustic campground 10 miles from Skagway near the old town site of Dyea, Alaska. The Dyea Campground is located near the entrance to the Chilkoot Trail Unit of the park. The campground is within a short walk of the Chilkoot Trailhead and a short drive or bike ride of the historic town site of Dyea. Facilities include fire rings, picnic tables, pit toilets, parking area and campground host. It opens when free of snow; contact park to confirm intended dates of stay. Hook-ups are not available for recreational vehicles. Campers are advised to bring drinking water and firewood.

Backcountry camping along the trail is available. From approximately June 1 through September 5, every person spending the night on the Chilkoot Trail is required to obtain a Permit. For other dates, please register your itinerary at park headquarters (2nd & Broadway). Those without required permits are subject to fines. Permit fees are collected to help offset the cost of trail and facility maintenance and information services. All fees are payable at time of reservation, or at the time permits are obtained if no advance reservation is made. Permit fees are refundable up to one calendar month prior to start date. Reservation fees are non-refundable. All fees are quoted in Canadian funds and may be subject to change. For reservations and more information call: 867-667-3910 or 1-800-661-0486 (Canada and U.S.) Permit reservations can be made in advance and are highly recommended. Eight permits a day are held for hikers without reservations. Sign the Canadian customs log at the trail center. You are required to check in with Canada customs after departing the trail. Make plans for your return from the trail. The White Pass & Yukon Route will offer transportation from the end of trail at Bennett to Skagway, Alaska, or Fraser, B. C. For information on their schedule call 1-800-343-7373 or 907-983-2217.

Sitka National Historical Park, Wrangell – St Elias National Park & Preserve, Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve, Admiralty Island National Monument, Misty Fiords National Monument, and Tongass National Forest are nearby.

Skagway, Alaska is located 96 miles by air north of Juneau.

Skagway is reached by the South Klondike Highway and is 110 miles south of Whitehorse, Yukon Territory.

Skagway is served by the Alaska Marine Highway System from Juneau and by public bus from Whitehorse.

Approximate Mileage from the following major cities to Klondike Gold Rush National Historic Park:

By Car:

Port Chilkoot, AK – 18.06 miles
Haines, AK – 17.60 miles
Tanani, AK – 15 miles
Lutak Inlet, AK – 17.35 miles
Wells, AK – 40.74 miles

Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park, Second and Broadway, P. O. Box 517, Skagway, AK 99840
Headquarters 907-983-2921
Visitor Information 907-983-2921
By Fax 907-983-9249

Map

Kenai Fjords National Park Information

June 18th, 2009 No comments
Kenai Fjords National Park

Kenai Fjords National Park

Southeast coast of Alaska’s Kenai Peninsula

Kenai Fjords National Park is a prime choice for the outdoor adventure seeker. You won’t soon run out of things to do! There’s glaciers, excellent salt and freshwater fishing, ice climbing, wildlife viewing, cross-country skiing, snowmobiling, boat charters, kayaking, backpacking, hiking and camping. Continue reading for great Kenai Fjords National Park information.

Uniqueness

Sweeping from rocky coastline to glacier-crowned peaks, Kenai Fjords National Park encompasses 607,805 acres of unspoiled wilderness. The park is capped by the Harding Icefield, a relic from past ice-ages and the largest icefield entirely within U.S. borders. You will see a landscape continuously shaped by glaciers, earthquakes, and storms. Inland areas that aren’t icebound consist mainly of sheer cliffs, steep gorges and box canyons – often covered by dense vegetation. This challenging wilderness will test the mettle of even the most experienced backcountry traveler. It is not a place for beginners, but several licensed outfitters do offer guided backcountry trips.

There are operators that offer scenic over flights of the park. Flight seeing is one of the best ways to get a sense of the vastness of the Harding Icefield. Soaring over this expanse of ice broken only by isolated mountain peaks, or nunataks, is like traveling back to the Pleistocene. Over flights also provide dramatic views of the Park’s glaciers, fjords and even wildlife. You may catch a glimpse of a mountain goat traversing a rocky ledge, or peer down at a Brown Bear fishing in salmon choked streams.

Orcas, otters, puffins, bear, moose and mountain goats are just a few of the numerous animals that make their home in this ever-changing place where mountains, ice and ocean meet. Winter is one of the best times of year to spot moose at Exit Glacier. One of the unique features of the Kenai Fjords coastline is the “ghost forests” – dead standing trees whose roots were inundated with salt water during the ’64 earthquake. Different nesting birds, like Black Oystercatchers, still use these areas.

Exit Glacier is the only part of the park accessible by road. Here you can stroll the trails, walk right up to an active glacier or take a ranger led walk. It is a place where you can witness up close how glaciers re-shape a landscape and learn how plant life reclaims the barren rocky land exposed by a glacier’s retreat. The Exit Glacier Nature Center has hands-on exhibits and an Alaska Natural History Association book store.

Snowmobiling is allowed in the park once there is at least 18 inches of snow with a solid base. The Harding Icefield has adequate snow cover year round, but the rest of the park is generally open to snowmobile use from November through April. Technical ice climbing is permitted on the glacier’s terminus from November through March. The rest of the year, climbers must be at least ½ mile above the terminus. Ice climbing opportunities are very limited due to unstable ice conditions. The park sponsors a cross-country skiing race the third weekend in January in conjunction with the Annual Polar Bear Jump. Proceeds go to support the local Nordic Ski Club. Tour boats depart Seward’s small boat harbor daily. It’s a good idea to make reservations in advance. In the summer months you can choose from full-day tours that venture out to one of the park’s actively calving glaciers and half-day tours that give you a taste of the park’s wildlife and scenery while staying in the more protected waters of Resurrection Bay. Several companies provide a variety of tour options, schedules and amenities.

The Harding Icefield offers excellent mountaineering possibilities. April is generally the best time of year for crossing the icefield. The days are getting longer and warmer but there is still plenty of snow to ski and pull sleds on the approach and descent. Those lucky enough to have good weather can experience an awesome glimpse back into the ice age, when entire continents were dominated by glaciers. Isolated nunataks jut up from the vast white expanse like dark islands in a smooth sea, begging to be explored. The view from the summit of one of these jagged peaks is indescribably beautiful and eerie.

Exit Glacier Nature Center is open Memorial Day Weekend to Labor Day daily 9am-8:30pm. It is located 9 miles down Exit Glacier Road from turn-off at mile 3 of the Seward Highway. It offers exhibits, an Alaska Natural History Association book store, and information about the glacier and the Harding Icefield, interpretive programs and talks. Seward Information Center is open May 7 – May 26 9am – 5pm daily, May 27 – September 5 8am – 6pm daily, and September 6 – 12 9am – 5pm daily. The center is located on Seward’s small boat harbor and offers videos, maps, publications, exhibits and interpretive programs daily Memorial Day through Labor Day.

Kenai Fjords National Park is a sequestered glacial landscape of ice, tidewater glaciers, deeply chiseled fjords, and jagged peninsulas formed by the forces of the Harding and Grewingk-Yalik icefields as they plunge into the sea. Located on the southeastern or seaward coast of the one hundred and seventy-mile-long Kenai Peninsula, the park abuts the Kenai Mountains to the north and west. These lofty mountains, part of the Chugach and St. Elias ranges, bisect the peninsula close to the southeastern coast and extend to Kodiak and Afognak islands. Only the mountain peaks (nunataks) are visible above the permanent mantle of ice and snow of the icefield. Along the coast, the summits of the same mountain range surface as offshore island stacks. As the glaciers recede the fjords deepen, enlarging and exposing peninsulas that indent the coast and disappear into the sea.

The park is located on an active tectonic shelf of the Pacific Ocean Plate that follows the coast from Port Dick (west of Nuka Bay) to Day Harbor (east of Seward) in one of the most seismically erratic regions of the United States. During the 1964 earthquake lands within the Kenai Fjords National Park subsided. The tremor dropped the coastline from three to six vertical feet in most areas and attempted to counterbalance the force by raising it in others. As the shifting plate moves and grates against the continental landmass, the coast submits to the sea. This process is believed to have begun after the last major period of glaciation, 20,000 years ago.

Glaciers and deep fjords in the southwestern portion of the Kenai Fjords radiate from the colossal snow pack of Harding Icefield. In 1950, the USGS officially named the icefield for President Warren G. Harding who died in 1923, soon after the first presidential visit to Alaska (see chapter 10). Ten of the thirty-four tidewater and hanging glaciers that emanate from Harding Icefield are included within the park.

Kenai Fjords National Park is open year-round; however the Exit Glacier road is closed to cars for the winter months and much of the spring. Snow at higher elevations on the Harding Icefield trail can persist into mid-summer. The weather at Kenai Fjords is difficult to predict and can change rapidly. In general the area enjoys a relatively temperate maritime climate primarily due to the influence of the Japanese current that flows through the Gulf of Alaska. It is always a good idea to check on current conditions before setting out.

Once the Exit Glacier Road is snow covered and closed to cars it is accessible by cross-country skis, snow machine or dog sled. Generally winter recreation starts in early November and the snow can last into May. However this varies greatly from season to season so be sure to check on current conditions before starting out. A warming hut with firewood and benches is available for day use. The Willow Public Use Cabin can be rented by the night, providing visitors with a once in a lifetime winter backcountry experience.

The only maintained trails in Kenai Fjords National Park are those in the Exit Glacier area. These include several short hiking trails on the valley floor and the Harding Icefield trail. From the Exit Glacier parking area an easy half-mile trail takes you to the foot of the Glacier. The first quarter mile is paved and handicap accessible. Once at the glacier, you can wander along the relatively flat outwash plain, or head up the moderately strenuous overlook loop trail along the glacier’s edge. You can return by the same path or take the nature trail back to the parking lot. This slightly longer, more wooded route includes interpretive signs describing the progression from pioneer plants to temperate rainforest that occurs after a glacier recedes. For longer day hiking, don’t miss the Harding Icefield trail. Most of the backcountry is trail-less wilderness. Off-trail hiking is not recommended. The terrain is steep and rugged, and often requires scrambling through dense vegetation. The vast majority of backcountry use involves kayaking and camping along the coastal fjords.

The area surrounding Kenai Fjords National Park has outstanding opportunities for both fresh and salt water fishing. Within the park’s backcountry you can fish coastal streams for salmon and Dolly Varden. The Fjords and Resurrection Bay are hotspots for salmon, halibut, rockfish and lingcod. You can fish right from shore in Seward and opportunities abound for freshwater fishing in the lakes and streams in nearby Chugach National Forest. State Fishing Licenses are required. Fishing charters are available year-round.

Parties wishing to explore the icefield should be well versed in glacier travel and crevasse rescue techniques and should be experienced skiers. However, people can also travel on the icefield with snowshoes. Travelers should rope together whenever moving on the icefield as buried crevasses can be encountered anywhere. The easiest access points are Exit Glacier on the east side and Tustemena or Chernof glaciers on the west. The most popular routes are from Tustemena Glacier to Exit Glacier and from Chernof Glacier (via the Fox River on Kachemak Bay) to Exit Glacier. Exit Glacier is the ideal ‘exit’ since it is the one access point where you don’t have to rely on meeting a boat or a plane. There is no way to predict exactly how long a traverse will take, so it is easier to end the trip where you don’t have to have a pre-arranged pick up date/time. Successful traverses have taken anywhere from six days to two weeks, but many parties have been turned back by the weather. Storms from the Gulf of Alaska can sweep in at any time of year, bringing winds in excess of 100 miles per hour.

It is legal to possess a firearm anywhere in the park in accordance with all other applicable state and federal laws. This is different than the rule in most Lower 48 National Park areas, but is allowed here for protection from bears and other dangerous wildlife. Hunting is strictly prohibited within the park.

Bicycles are allowed anywhere except the decks of the Headquarters building in Seward and the trail system at Exit Glacier. The only road in the park is the Exit Glacier Road, and a bike rack is provided at the trail head for cyclists who want to hike the last ½ mile to the glacial terminus.

Summer daytime temperatures range from the mid 40’s to the low 70’s (Fahrenheit). Overcast and cool rainy days are frequent. It is not unusual to get several long periods of continuous rain in the summer months (lasting days or even weeks at a time). There are sunny days as well. Snow often remains in the higher elevations through June or July.
Since this is a temperate rainforest, be prepared with raingear, layered clothing, and a jacket. But don’t forget your sunglasses and sunscreen either. The sunlight reflected off of the water or the ice can be very intense.

Winter temperatures can range from the low 30’s to -20. Exit Glacier area averages close to 200 inches of snowfall annually, but conditions vary greatly. Storms dumping several feet of snow are common as are rainy mid-winter days with temperatures hovering in the mid-upper 30’s.

The Exit Glacier Trails can still be under heavy snow in the springtime. Any hiking then will need skis or snowshoes. Stay on the packed trails to avoid getting stuck in deep slushy snow.

Whether you’re headed out on a day hike, backpacking trip or even just a scenic drive it’s always a good idea to have emergency supplies with you including extra food and water. Let someone know your plans and who to contact if you don’t check in. Alaska is remote, rugged and unpredictable where anything can happen including bear encounters, falling ice, radical shifts in the weather, earthquakes or avalanches. Have a trip plan. Let them know how long overdue you can be before they should start to worry. Prepare for the unexpected. Ocean storms can sweep through the Kenai Fjords any time of year. Good rain gear and extra food supplies are a must since weather may delay a charter pick-up for days. A properly prepared party can usually wait out bad weather and thus may be a few days overdue with no cause for alarm. Travel with a marine radio to stay informed of upcoming conditions.

When on a tour boat, plan to dress in warm layers that include a wind and waterproof outer shell, a warm hat and gloves or mittens. The best place to enjoy views of wildlife and scenery is out on deck but the winds can be surprisingly cold, even on sunny days.
A broad brimmed rain hat is also recommended as well as sunglasses, sunscreen, camera, film and binoculars. Bring some high-energy bars to keep you warm from the inside if no snacks or meal are provided.

Kenai Fjords rainy, cold and windy weather make hypothermia (or lower than normal body temperature) one of the greatest potential dangers to park visitors. Extreme hypothermia can be life threatening. Many people don’t realize that once they are shivering or have numb fingers and/or toes, they are in the early stages of hypothermia. The best way to deal with hypothermia is to avoid it. Drink plenty of water, even if you’re not thirsty. Avoid alcohol and coffee. Dehydration reduces blood volume and thus limits the body’s ability to produce heat. Eat high calorie foods throughout the day. Wear layered clothing…shed layers when you get warm and add layers when you get cold. The goal is to avoid sweating, which cools the body. Choose wool or synthetic clothing and avoid cotton, which is useless as insulation once it gets wet. Wear a hat because up to 25% of body heat is lost through your head. Stay dry and seek shelter from the wind. Take action at the first sign of hypothermia. The initial signs and symptoms are shivering, skin numbness, difficulty using fingers, sensation of chilliness, lack of coordination, weakness, stumbling, slow pace, and confusion and apathy. If someone in your party shows signs of hypothermia, get them out of the wind and indoors. Take off wet clothes and get them into dry ones. Keep them warm and encourage food and fluids.

Several abandoned mines are scattered throughout the park. Use extreme caution in areas around mine sites. Watch out for sharp rusted pieces of old mining equipment. Abandoned chemicals such as cyanide, arsenic, mercury and other deadly toxins may also be present in leaky and deteriorating containers. Don’t drink the water in areas near mine sites – filtering or treating it will not remove arsenic, mercury or other heavy metals that may be present. Never enter an adit, mine shaft or tunnel! They are extremely unstable and cave-ins and falling debris are a real danger.

For snowmobiling, carry enough food and water for an extended trip, as well as tools and spare parts. A small shovel, snow shoes, and a tow rope or strap can be invaluable when you or someone else is stuck or broken down. Be especially cautious while operating in darkness or low “flat light” conditions. Braided streams create multiple channels which can be difficult to see even under the best conditions. Moose are active throughout the winter. By late winter, they frequent snowmobile trails and often refuse to yield to people. By law, moose in the park are protected from harassment, so pick an alternate route or wait for the moose to move out of your way before proceeding.

Falling ice from glaciers can kill! Stay away from steep walls of ice, overhangs, or areas with visible cracks and or pieces of broken ice lying on the ground. Never enter an ice cave! By definition, a glacier is ‘ice on the move.’ Forward momentum causes ice to crack and rock-hard chunks ranging from softball to Volkswagen size break off without warning. Seeing an active glacier up close is an unforgettable experience, but it is extremely dangerous to be in the wrong place at the wrong time. Do not attempt to climb on the ice unless you have technical climbing skills and proper equipment. It’s more dangerous than it looks!

Anyone attempting to travel on or transverse the icefield must be prepared for the possibility of being pinned down by winds and whiteout for days at a time. Carry a shovel and always build a snow wall around your camp – even if it looks like a beautiful evening. Storms can come up quickly and unexpectedly and high winds can tear up an unprotected tent. Bear resistant food storage canisters are recommended for icefield crossings. You may encounter bears and other wildlife several miles from the icefield’s edge and there are no other viable food storage options. Human waste should be disposed of in a deep crevasse or packed out. Don’t forget these climbing/backpacking checklist essentials: stove and plenty of fuel (enough for cooking and melting snow for drinking water); extra food; extra stove and repair kit; four season expedition quality tent; shovel; foot care products (to combat blisters, etc.); first aid kit; climbing gear for glacial travel and crevasse rescue; snow shoes and/or cross-country skis; signal mirror; maps, compass and GPS for navigation (especially in poor visibility).

Boating and Kayaking Safely
Traveling with a guide is strongly recommended for inexperienced paddlers. The Kenai Fjords are exposed to the Gulf of Alaska, with only a few protected coves. These are not waters for beginners! Waves from calving glaciers or large icebergs can upset your kayak or skiff. Stay at least 1/2 mile away from tidewater glaciers. Even at that distance, falling ice can cause waves. Make sure you’re proficient at self rescue techniques and carry a survival kit including extra warm layers (protected from getting wet), food, water and emergency fire starter to help prevent hypothermia. Be prepared to wait out storms for several days. Better to get home late than to risk paddling through potentially deadly seas. When in doubt, stay on the beach.

Most kayakers access the park by water taxi or charter boat from Seward and get dropped off in Aialik Bay or Northwestern Lagoon. Another alternative is to fly in to the less visited Nuka Bay area from Homer. Paddling directly from Seward is okay for day trips in Resurrection Bay or overnight visits to Caines Head or Bear Glacier but rounding Aialik Cape in a kayak is not recommended. There are long stretches of exposed coastline with no landing sites between Callisto Head and Aialik Cape, and the waters around the Cape can be extremely treacherous. Most of an iceberg is hidden below the waterline. Do not approach them too closely as they regularly shift and roll.

Avoid landing on beaches within two miles of a tidewater glacier as they are subject to sudden and hazardous surf. Tides can affect the navigability of certain waters. The difference between high and low tides in the Kenai Fjords can be as much as 15 feet. Pick up a tide book before heading out. When making camp, be sure to store your gear well above the high tide line and tie off your boat. When choosing a landing/camping site, use clues such as driftwood accumulation, beach steepness and cobble size to judge what the wave action is likely to be in storm conditions. Make sure you will be able to launch from the beach in the morning if the wind or weather changes overnight. Carry a marine radio – cell phone coverage is not available in much of the park. In case of emergency Rangers and/or the Coast Guard can be reached on Marine Channel 16.

Current Weather

In the backcountry you are a visitor. Treat wildlife with respect. Bring binoculars and enjoy viewing animals from a distance. Bear and moose can be extremely dangerous if they are startled or approached, especially mothers with young. More people each year are injured by moose than by bears. In the summer months, moose blend in well to their environment and can be surprisingly hard to see for such large animals. They are likely to stand their ground even when they hear people approaching, so pay close attention to your surroundings, especially in prime moose habitat such as willow thickets or around streams or ponds.

Kenai Fjords is home to both brown and black bears, although black bears are far more common. Black bears are generally timid and will usually leave an area to avoid a threat. Brown bears are more likely to defend their food and/or their “personal space.” Since bears have only about six months to build up fat reserves to maintain them through the long winter – their main interest is getting food. However protecting cubs is also a high priority of mothers with young. Both species tend to ignore or avoid people, but if they learn to associate easily gotten food with humans, they can become aggressive! Park managers often have no choice but to kill ‘problem’ bears in the interest of visitor safety. See the Wildlife Precautions page for further information.

Never feed wild animals. This includes all park animals; birds, squirrels, marmots, otters and not just bears. Learning to beg for and/or rely on human foods is extremely harmful for all wild animals, big or small. Be careful not to leave wrappers, crumbs or other food trash after picnicking or snacking on the trails.

There are user fees of $5.00 – 7 days or $15.00 – Annual. Individual Hikers/bikers may enter for $3.00. This fee is charged at Exit Glacier May through September.

There is only one campground in the park, Exit Glacier Campground. However, there is camping in Chugach National Forest, through the City of Seward Parks and Recreation Department and at several area private campgrounds. Backcountry camping is allowed throughout the park except within 500 feet of a public use cabin or within 1/8 mile of a road or trail at Exit Glacier. There is no permit required, however, if you are camping outside of the Exit Glacier Campground, you are strongly encouraged to complete a free voluntary backcountry registration before going out. This information helps park managers determine visitor use patterns and identify areas that need food storage lockers or impact monitoring. It can also help us find you in an emergency.

Exit Glacier is open year round and has a 12-site walk-in tent campground. Sites are available on a first-come first-served basis. Campers must be in a designated site and are limited to a maximum of two tents and/or six people per site. You may not sleep in a RV, camper or other vehicle in the campground parking area and overnight parking is not permitted in any other part of the Exit Glacier area. There are no reservations or camping fees. There is a fourteen day stay limit. The campground frequently fills by early evening in July and August. A central food storage/cooking and dining shelter is provided. Cooking and/or storing food in campsites is prohibited. There is a pump for drinking water and pit toilets are available. The Park has four public use cabins available by reservation. Aialik, Holgate and Northarm, along the Kenai Fjords coast are available during the summer months and are accessible by boat or float plane. Willow Cabin, at Exit Glacier is available for winter use from mid-late fall through early April.

Pets are not permitted in campsites. Because of their potential negative impact on park wildlife, pets are allowed only on the Exit Glacier Road and parking lot, provided they are on leash no longer than 6 feet or otherwise restrained. They are not allowed on any trail or in the coastal backcountry. Dogs used for mushing or skijoring may be used on the Harding Icefield at any time, and in the Exit Glacier area when the road is closed by snow and vehicle access is not allowed. Pets are not allowed in any building regardless of the season. Exceptions will be made for service animals such as seeing-eye and hearing ear dogs.

Avoid setting up camp on or near game trails. Keep your camp clean. Cook and eat away from your sleeping area. Store your food by locking it in your vehicle, using a bear-proof storage container or hanging it well above the ground and away from tree trunks. Campfires are allowed in the park, but only wood that is dead and down may be collected by hand for fuel. In the Exit Glacier area, fires are limited to the steel fire rings at the campground cooking shelter and the picnic area. In other areas, you are strongly encouraged to use fire pans and/or to build fires below the tide line on beaches. Any trash and burnt food must be removed from fire rings and packed out with other garbage. If you build a fire ring in the backcountry, dismantle it and scatter the rocks to leave a more pristine site for the next user.

There are several beach camping sites: Abra Cove, Bear Cove, Coleman Bay Arm, Holgate Arm, Kayak Drop, McMullen Cove, Northeastern Glacier Beach, Otter Cove, Pedersen Lagoon, Quicksand Cove, Redstone Glacier Beach, Southwestern Glacier Beach, Sunlight Glacier Beach, Tooth Cove, and Verdant Cove. These can be reached by kayak. Some are privately owned and will require a permit. Nesting birds use some of the sites so they may be seasonally closed. Learn and follow the principles of Leave No Trace to help keep Kenai Fjords pristine, both for future visitors and for the wildlife that make their home here. Travel and camp on durable surfaces. Despite the rugged appearance, the rocky shores and cliffs of Kenai Fjords are vulnerable to human impact. Fragile alpine vegetation is easily damaged and can take years to recover. Stick to the beaches when camping on the coast. Everywhere else in the backcountry, camp on bare rock or snow. Camp in areas where sites have already been established and concentrate use in the middle of the site. Pack out all trash-even things that are biodegradable! Be sure to clean up any campfire litter and remember many modern packaging materials don’t burn. Human waste disposal is no longer permitted in the inter-tidal zone due to concerns about water quality. Instead pack it out or bury it in the uplands in a six-inch deep “cat hole” at least 200 feet from any water source. Toilet paper should always be packed out or carefully and completely burned. If a bear does get into your camp, you are responsible for cleaning up and packing out all debris. Remember the safety of the bear and of future visitors depends on you. Report all bear encounters or problems to a park ranger. Rangers on the coast can be contacted on marine VHF channel 16. Treat your drinking water. Untreated water may contain Giardia, which presents serious health risks. Be sure to boil water for one minute, treat with iodine tablets or use a water filter.

The Park has four public use cabins available by reservation. Aialik, Holgate and Northarm, along the Kenai Fjords coast are available during the summer months and are accessible by boat or float plane. For reservations contact the Alaska Public Lands Information Center at (907)271-2737. Willow Cabin, at Exit Glacier is available for winter use from mid-late fall through early April. Contact the Park at (907) 224-7500 for reservations.

There are no hotel accommodations in the park, but a full range of hotels, bed and breakfasts and hostels are available in Seward and the surrounding area.

There are many other things to see and do in the area. These include: the Alaska Maritime National Wildlife Refuge, the Alaska Sea Life Center, Caines Head State Recreation Area, Chugach National Forest, Lake Clark National Park and Preserve, Katmai National Park and Preserve, Denali National Park and Preserve, the Kenai Wildlife Refuge, and the Seward Historical Society Museum.

Currently there is no regularly scheduled air service between Anchorage and Seward, however charter flights may be available.

The park lies 130 road miles south of Anchorage on the Seward Highway. The park’s information center is located in Seward’s small boat harbor. Bus service is available year round between Anchorage and Seward.

The Alaska Marine Highway (ferry) System connects Seward with Homer and Seldovia via Kodiak, providing service to Valdez and Cordova. The Alaska Railroad serves Seward from Anchorage during the summer months.

In summer, Exit Glacier can be reached by car on a paved road and a short trail. Exit Glacier is the only portion of the park accessible by road. Turn on to the Herman Leirer road at mile 3 of the Seward Highway, this 9 mile road leads to the Exit Glacier Nature Center. The Harding Icefield can be reached by trail or air. Air and boat charters provide access to the fjords.

Approximate Mileage from the following major cities to Kenai Fjords National Park:

By Car:
Woodrow, AK – 6.22 miles
Primrose, AK – 17.01 miles
Muskwa Village, AK – 22.77 miles
Mouse Pass, AK – 28.39 miles

National Park Service, PO Box 1727, Seward, AK 99664
Visitor Information Recorded Message 907-224-2132
Headquarters 907-224-7500
By Fax 907-224-7505

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