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Lake Clark National Park and Preserve was established in 1980. It protects approximately 4 million acres of undisturbed public land representing a microcosm of Alaska ecological resources. Less than 5,000 people enjoyed the park in 2004.

The Natives may have inhabited the area for the last 7,000 years. Kijik village and Tanalian Point enrich the areas history. The Lake Clark area first attracted outsiders interested in mining and then homesteaders. Located at the mouth of the Tanalian River, Tanalian Point was Lake Clark’s first Euro American settlement. Settled by prospectors in the late 1890′s, Tanalian Point was the forerunner of Port Alsworth. The site offered ready access to nearby copper prospects and the best wood fuel and timber for cabins. Dena’ina Athapaskans lived at Tanalian Point after prospectors established it as a community. Kijik was the closest Native village, located seven miles north across Lake Clark. Originally from the Old Village at Telaquana, the Trefon Balluta family was living at Kijik in 1900 and at Tanalian Point by 1912. Kijik village was abandoned by 1909. Tanalian Point thus became more important for both Euro Americans and Natives. It developed into a staging area for the Telaquana Trail and mining activities on Kontrashibuna Lake and Portage Creek. Big game hunters arrived by 1921 seeking local guides.

In May 1942, Leon “Babe” Alsworth and his wife Mary moved to the north side of Lake Clark, from Koggiung on the Bristol Bay. With aircraft safety in mind, they relocated their homestead to Hardenberg Bay, about 3/4 of a mile from Tanalian Point, in 1944. Prior to this event, Mary Ann Trefon’s spring fishing camp and a prospector’s cabin associated with the Kasna Creek copper claims were the only structures on the bay. By 1950 time and change had eclipsed Tanalian Point. The old prospectors had passed on. The Trefon Balluta family had moved to the Dena’ina village of Nondalton, twenty-two miles to the southwest. Babe Alsworth began using his 4,000 foot runway. Tanalian Point ceased to exist as a community and Port Alsworth emerged. The first post office was established in Mary Alsworth’s home in 1950.

The park area is a land of volcanoes and earthquakes. The Aleutian Island subduction zone lies about 30 miles beneath the surface of the Kenai Peninsula, but abruptly dives to depths greater than 65 miles beneath the western edge of Cook Inlet, and to a depth greater than 100 miles beneath Redoubt and Iliamna volcanoes at the eastern end of the park. Here, the Pacific Ocean plate is being pushed beneath the North American Plate. The subduction along the Aleutian trench has been going on for the last three million years at a rate of 2.6 inches per year, and earthquakes and volcanoes are prevalent. Thirteen earthquakes of magnitude 5-6 on the Richter scale have occurred in the area since 1972, mostly at depths of 55-110 miles beneath Chinitna Bay and Tuxedni Bay. Strong earthquakes and volcanic eruptions can be expected to continue in the eastern part of the park as the Pacific plate continues to dive beneath the North American plate. Alaska’s volcanic belt is part of the Pacific “Ring of Fire” and contains 70 potentially active volcanoes. It extends from Mount Spurr near Lake Clark to Buldir Island in the western Aleutians.

Within the Lake Clark region itself there are four active (and three of the tallest) volcanoes. Mount Spurr, at 11,070 feet, lies just north of the park. Mount Redoubt, at 10,197 feet, and Mount Iliamna, at 10,016 feet, are both located in the park. To the south of the park lies Saint Augustine Island. Mount Spurr erupted on July 9, 1953. That spectacular explosion sent a cloud of ash up 70,000 feet in just 40 minutes. Ash dropped on Anchorage, only 80 miles east, with a total accumulation of 1/8 to 1/4 inch. The most recent eruptions took place on June 17, August 18, and September 16-17, 1992, with ash plumes reaching up to 30,000 feet, darkening the skies, and dusting Anchorage with ash once again. Gases are frequently seen venting near the summit of Mount Iliamna, but there are no documented reports of recent eruptions. Redoubt Volcano, just north of Iliamna, awakened December 14, 1989, dumping varying amounts of ash primarily north and west of the volcano and lightly dusting Anchorage and Kenai. Periodic eruptions continued throughout the week before Christmas, disrupting holiday air traffic. Eruptions continued until April 21, 1990. Until 1989, Redoubt had not erupted since 1966. St. Augustine last erupted in 1986. Its eruption, too, sent ash several miles high and disrupted air traffic in south-central Alaska for several days.

Along with Lake Clark’s volcanoes stand a frenzy of peaks called the Chigmit Mountains. They were formed as a result of massive intrusions of granite coupled with the uplift of existing rock layers. The intruded rocks are moderately to highly deformed volcanic and sedimentary rocks. Today, you see a spectacular maze of jagged peaks and spires, and broad, U-shaped valleys carved out by glacial action. About 12,000 years ago, great ice sheets and glaciers retreated as the world’s climate experienced a warming trend. The awesome and spectacular landscapes we see throughout the park and preserve today are remnants of this period. In the western foothills, glaciers once pushed out onto the interior plains. Retreating at a later time, the glaciers filled their former beds with melt water and created the remarkable jewel-like lakes that rank down the western side of the park and preserve. Like rivers, glaciers move down slope under the influence of gravity and flow along the path of least resistance. Although glaciers in the park are now retreating, their ice movement is still down the mountain. A glacier is said to be retreating if the rate at which it melts is greater than the rate at which it moves down slope.

At Lake Clark, glaciers are the dominant architects at work. Tremendously heavy and sharp glaciers tear, shear, and rip rock material away from the mountain and valley sides, transport the debris, and eventually dump it into piles called terminal moraines. Lateral moraines are piled up on each side of a glacier and are composed of plucked rock material from the valley walls, and rock that avalanche onto the ice surface. When two valley glaciers join, two lateral moraines merge to create a medial moraine in the middle of the combined glacier. At the foot of a glacier, a person can count the number of medial moraines and determine how many glacial valleys feed the main glacier.

Entirely trailless; wilderness adventures abound with the park and preserve’s western parts generally offering the easiest hiking. The drier, brush-less tundra plateaus enable hikers to go where ever they chose. Farther south, there is more timber and brush along the drainages, hence more bushwhacking and tougher going if one leaves the ridges. This area is still good hiking and is less frequented by the public. Access into various portions of Lake Clark National Park can be expensive because of the air taxi costs. The area south and east of Lake Clark itself is accessible from the community of Port Alsworth for the price of a seat fare (approximately $300 round trip from Anchorage). It offers 4,000 foot summits with great views, open tundra, and high alpine cirques. Hikers could spend several days traveling through these mountains. To the south is the Tazimina Lakes region, an excellent area to fish for rainbow trout.

Using a canoe or kayak to travel through Lake Clark National Park and Preserve is a peaceful and rewarding experience. There are numerous lakes to explore in this way. Contact the air taxi you plan to travel with to discuss with them the kind of boat you may want to bring and if they can fly it there. Rafting rivers in the Lake Clark area is also a great way to experience wilderness. There are numerous float trip possibilities. Three National Wild Rivers flow through here. Mulchatna National Wild River begins in Turquoise Lake at the base of Telaquana Mountain and flows through the rolling Bonanza Hills in a challenging, shallow, rocky channel, more suitable for small rafts and kayaks than canoes. Expect a stretch of fast WW II-III above Bonanza Creek; a portage is possible. West of the Bonanza Hills the valley broadens; here the river trip is a gentle float through forests of spruce, birch and aspen. Farther downstream after picking up the waters of the Chilikadrotna River, the floodplain widens to wetlands and joins the lowlands of the Nushagak River. The best time of year to go is June – September with trip lengths of 100 to 230 miles. Chilikadrotna National Wild River flows down the west side of the Alaska Range out of Twin Lakes, through gentle upland forests of spruce, birch, and aspen. The Chilikadrotna is a swift, twisting, narrow river, most suitable for rafts or kayaks; canoeist attempting it should be very experienced. There are limited whitewater opportunities: sweepers and strainers are the biggest hazard. Good fishing and a fast pace are pluses for this river. Trip lengths are 70 to 200 miles when combined with Mulchatna on its lower end. Tlikakila National Wild River is located about 110 air miles west of Anchorage and is found entirely within park boundaries. Flowing through Lake Clark Pass, this small but fast glacier-fed river follows the deep narrow valley of a major earth fault, surrounded by rugged snow-capped peaks, glaciers, waterfalls, and sheer rock cliffs. From its headwaters at Summit Lake, the river drops through a densely forested valley with thick underbrush. Just below the confluence with the North Fork, a short section of WW III-IV rapids can be portaged on the left bank. At high water, other WW III-IV rapids appear in the next 3 miles after this confluence. Small plane traffic will be present daily along the Tlikakila (Lake Clark Pass is the airway/route of getting to Anchorage from SW Alaska). Anticipate moderate to heavy traffic especially during weekends and the fall. The best time of year for this river is July – September and the average trip length is 70 miles.

The wide variety of habitats found in the park allow for an abundance of bird species that in turn allow ample bird watching opportunities. Over 125 species of birds are found in the Lake Clark region, and bird lists are available at the visitor center. The once endangered Peregrine falcon nests along the Tuxedni Bay coastline. The foothill/lakes region to the west of the Chigmit Range, and the Chulitna Flats adjacent to Lake Clark are important feeding and nesting grounds which host a varied array of migratory and native birds. Red-throated Loon, Arctic Loon, Horned Grebe, Fork-tailed Storm-Petrel, Tundra Swan, Green-winged Teal, Northern Pintail, American Wigeon, and Greater Scaup are just a few to be named. There are many, many more.

There is abundant wildlife to be seen in the park. Black bears are present throughout the park and preserve except at higher elevations. Brown (grizzly) bears are common in all habitats, but Chinitna Bay, along the coast, supports the most sizable concentration. Caribou remain primarily in the hills around Turquoise, Twin and Snipe lakes and westward to the Bonanza hills. The population of the herd is estimated to be over 200,000 animals, and is increasing in size. Moose, the largest members of the Deer family, are found below timberline throughout the park. Dall Sheep are the northernmost species of wild sheep in North America. These white sheep number about 600 animals and range at higher elevations all along the western flank of the Chigmit Mountains. Coyotes are found in grassy as well as brushy or boulder-strewn areas of the park. Wolves are mainly in the park’s mountainous areas, generally below 5,000 feet in coniferous forests, and in open tundra. Both red fox and lynx are found throughout the park at almost any elevation, primarily in coniferous-hardwood forests and open tundra. Other fur-bearers found in Lake Clark National Park and Preserve includes marten, river otter, wolverine, weasels, mink, hares and beaver. Chinitna Bay and Tuxedni Bay support a variety of marine mammals. Some of these mammals include sea lions, beluga whales, harbor seals and porpoises. Other whales may also be seen occasionally in the area. Most of the coast freezes in the winter, and therefore does not support a year-round marine mammal population.

One of the primary reasons Lake Clark National Park and Preserve was established was to protect a portion of the Bristol Bay watershed for the perpetuation of the sockeye salmon fishery. The watershed, the world’s most productive spawning and rearing habitat for sockeye salmon, contributes about 50% of sockeye salmon caught in Bristol Bay. This represents 33% of the entire U.S. catch, and 16% of the total world catch. Spectacular lakes and wild rivers fill the valleys, flowing southwestward to Bristol Bay. Fish include five species of salmon, rainbow trout, Dolly Varden, lake trout, northern pike, and arctic grayling. Crystal clear and glacial fed mountain lakes nestled among the jagged spires of the Alaska Range contain a combination of arctic grayling, Dolly Varden, several species of salmon, lake trout, and northern pike. The northern area of the park includes such major resources as Two Lakes, Twin Lakes, Telaquana, and Turquoise Lake. Lake Clark itself is fished for grayling, lake trout, Dolly Varden, northern pike, and red salmon. Other lakes that provide opportunities for recreational fishing include Kontrashibuna, Crescent, Portage, Lachbuna, Kijik, Fishtrap, and Tazimina Lakes, in addition to many smaller lakes. Two of the three wild and scenic rivers, the Mulchatna and the Chilikadrotna, provide exceptional floating experiences and the opportunity for fishing red and king salmon, grayling, Dolly Varden, and rainbow trout. The Tlikakila River, although an excellent float trip, is too glacial to support a sizeable population of game fish. The lower Chulitna River, with its non-glacial waters flowing through tundra and marshes in the southern preserve, has northern pike. Other rivers which will provide good fishing opportunities in and around the park include the Tanalian, Kijik, Tazimina, Necons, Stony, and Telaquana Rivers and Currant Creek. Several streams flow southeast into Cook Inlet, providing habitat for spawning red and silver salmon. These include the Crescent and Johnson Rivers in addition to Shelter and Silver Salmon Creeks. Adjacent saltwater provides good opportunity to fish for halibut.

An air quality monitoring station operated by the United States Fish and Wildlife Service is located at Silver Salmon cove. The station measures fine particles.

There are 30 species of non-native vascular plants within Lake Clark National Park and Preserve. Most of the plants are not considered to be highly invasive and problematic. There is an effort to eradicate the common dandelion from Upper Twin Lakes. There are no known species of non-native animals that are free roaming within the unit.

During late May and early June you may find that some of the upper elevation lakes are still frozen. June and early July are usually the best months for hiking. During these months be prepared for cool temperatures, averaging between 50° and 65° F with considerable precipitation. It’s especially cool in the evenings and in mountainous terrain. August and September are typically wet, cool and windy. Frost and snow can occur in September and October, and in mid-summer evening frost should be expected. Strong winds can occur at any time. Winter temperatures can sink to -40º F. North of the Artic Circle the sun does not set from mid-May until mid-August.

Spending time in this pristine country requires preparation. Wilderness adventure demands self-sufficiency and advanced backcountry skills. Leave your itinerary with the field headquarters at Port Alsworth before departing into the backcountry and also to a friend or family member. Be sure to notify your friend or family when you return. Weather can change quickly and remain bad for several days. Be prepared for the possibility of inclement weather delaying scheduled pick-up, again by perhaps several days. Always filter or boil your water. Have adequate layered clothing for the time of year you travel. Other useful equipment on your backpacking checklist should be of good quality and include, topographical maps, compass, GPS, first-aide kit, tent with rainfly, sleeping bag and mat, campstove, matches, good hiking boots, flashlight with extra batteries and bulb (in winter), rain and cool weather gear, multipurpose tool or knife, extra food, and extra cooking fuel, water filter or tablets, insect repellant, gun and/or pepper spray for bears, sunglasses, sunscreen, and signal mirror.

When backpacking and/or hiking, be aware that willows, alders and birch brush found along the water courses and on many of the lower mountain slopes generally mean slower and tougher travel. Some areas are virtually impassable because of the vegetation. Hikers should also be prepared for wet feet from occasional soggy tundra or river fords. Keep in mind that all streams and rivers must be forded, and during high water levels, this may prove to be impossible. Make wise choices when crossing.

Inflatable canoes and kayaks are good choices for gear-limiting small aircraft. The rivers in Lake Clark are more suitable for use with a kayak than a canoe. Wind and weather can work the lake’s surface into a stormy sea, unsuitable for small boats. If limited by time constraints, travel on Lake Clark by power boat is an option for getting around. A calm lake can quickly become rough. Keep an eye on the weather. Small waves in the morning and early afternoon can become large waves and white caps in just an hour or two. Hypothermia always needs to be considered in this country. The frigid water and windy, wet weather are unforgiving. Be prepared, think ahead and be aware of the signs and symptoms of hypothermia. (Chills, sluggishness, disorientation, difficulty thinking and with coordination)

Current Weather

Inquire about recent bear activity in the area. Keep in mind that each bear is an individual, each encounter is unique and you are not fluent in their language. Stay extra alert near food sources such as animal carcasses, berry patches, and spawning fish and be aware of your surroundings. Look for bear-activity signs: tracks, scat, diggings, torn-up logs, and turned-over rocks. It is legal to shoot a bear in defense of life or property in Alaska only if you have made efforts to avoid problems in the first place. Note: In the event a bear is killed for self-protection, you are responsible for ending your planned itinerary and transporting the skull and properly skinned hide to the State of Alaska. Further information on these regulations is available from the Alaska Dept. of Fish & Game. Use common sense.

Moose can also be dangerous. Avoid direct contact, especially those with young. See the Wildlife Precautions page.

There are no fees.

There is not an established campground in the park. It’s up to you to decide where to pitch your tent. Choices can be limited by private property around Lake Clark itself, so be sure of land status before setting up camp. If you are coming into Port Alsworth and want to camp in that area, you can hike three miles to Kontrashibuna Lake via the Tanalian Falls trail. With such freedom to travel and camp where one pleases, it’s important that you camp lightly on the land and leave no trace.

Firewood must be dead or down. Do not remove tundra for tent pads. Do not remove natural objects like antlers/horns, skulls, historical objects, plants or rocks. Hunt only in the Preserve and don’t kill undersize animals or fail to salvage the meat. Use bear resistant containers and pack out all trash. Dispose of all human waste properly.

Katmai National Park & Preserve, Kenai Fjords National Park, Aniakchak National Monument & Preserve, Denali National Park & Preserve, Kenai National Wildlife Refuge, Alaska Maritime National Wildlife Refuge, Alaska Peninsula National Wildlife Refuge, Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge, Chugach National Forest and Yukon Delta National Wildlife Refuge are all worth checking out for further outdoor adventures.

There is no highway access to the park and preserve. Access to the Lake Clark region is by small aircraft. Float planes may land on the many lakes throughout the area. Wheeled planes land on open beaches, gravel bars, or private airstrips in or near the park. A one to two-hour flight from Anchorage, Kenai or Homer will provide access to most points within the park and preserve. Scheduled commercial flights between Anchorage and Iliamna, 30 miles outside the boundary, provide another means of access.

There are no roads in the park. A two and one half mile trail to Tanalian Falls and Kontrashibuna Lake is accessible from the town of Port Alsworth. The 50 mile Telaquana Trail depicted on maps is an undeveloped historic route from Lake Clark to Telaquana Lake. Accommodations are available in Port Alsworth, but should be reserved well ahead of time. The period of highest visitation is June through September. This area is wilderness and preparation is important for your safety and enjoyment.

Lake Clark National Park and Preserve, Administrative Headquarters,
4230 University Drive, Suite 311, Anchorage, AK 99508

Field Headquarters, 1 Park Place, Port Alsworth, AK 99653
Headquarters (907) 271-3751
Visitor Information (907) 781-2218
By Fax (907) 781-2119

Map

The Preserve is open year round. The field office in Eagle is open 7 days a week, 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., from mid-May to mid-September. From mid-September to mid-May the Eagle field office is open Monday through Friday, 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. The Fairbanks office is open all year, Monday through Friday, from 8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. The Visitor Center at the Eagle Field Office offers exhibits depicting the area, history, and ecology of Yukon-Charley Rivers. Visitors can enjoy a short video presentation on the preserve as well as area specific videos during normal visitor hours. Scheduled nature hikes, talks, and campfire programs are posted at the Visitor Center.

Yukon-Charley Rivers National Preserve is located on the US-Canadian border and comprises 2.5 million acres (1 million hectares) of Alaskan wilderness. The preserve includes nearly 160 miles of the Yukon River and the entire 1.1 million acres (0.45 hectares) of the Charley River drainage.

In Alaskan and Yukon history, the best known period of mining history is the great Klondike Gold Rush which took place in 1898. By the time the thousands of prospectors landed at Dawson City in the Yukon Territory they found all the valuable ground staked. Consequently, many of them either returned to their homes empty-handed or fanned out into the surrounding country hoping to find new areas where they could make their fortunes. Many continued down the Yukon River to the already established Fortymile mining district and some further on to the Eagle district. Approximately 150 miles further down the river lay the town of Circle, the heart of the Circle district.

Although the strikes in the Klondike are the best known, previous discoveries were made and production began in tributaries along the upper Yukon in the mid-1880s with discoveries along the Fortymile River. Following these, in 1893, two Creoles, named Pitka and Sorresca made additional discoveries in what later became the Circle Mining District. Their initial discoveries were somewhere on Birch Creek. News of the discovery started an influx of prospectors into the area and in the following spring (1894) discovery of the placers on Mastodon Creek. As prospectors continued to probe the drainages surrounding Birch and Mastodon Creeks, gold was also discovered on Independence, Miller, Deadwood, and Boulder Creeks all within what eventually became the Circle mining district.

In 1895, gold was found on Eagle Creek with discoveries made on Harrison and Porcupine Creeks later that winter. By 1896, active mining was taking place on all the principle streams in the Circle District. Although many other streams in the District would be mined as commercial placers, it is an interesting fact to realize that the Birch Creek and Mastodon Creek discoveries occurred well before those of the Canadian Yukon that sparked the great Klondike Gold Rush in 1896.

Mining activity within Yukon-Charley Rivers primarily focused on Coal Creek, Woodchopper Creek, Ben and Sam Creeks, Fourth of July Creek. The Seventymile River, just outside the preserve’s eastern and southern boundaries also saw significant mining activity. A number of individuals are significant in the history of mining within Yukon-Charley National Preserve. Among them are Samuel Downs Harvey, John Holmstrum, Frank Rossbach, Jack and Kate Welch, Frank Slaven, Martin Adamik, and Phil Berail. It is also a common misconception that mining is a male oriented and dominated industry. That was not the case for Yukon-Charley Rivers. The role played by women on the creeks is fascinating. Some actually had a more significant part than did the men. Some of their backgrounds are quite surprising as well.

Gold mining continued to develop throughout the region between Circle and Dawson. Three main areas within the Circle District account for the vast majority of gold produced here. Among these were Mastodon Creek, Deadwood Creek, along with the combined drainages of Woodchopper Creek and Coal Creek (each in addition to the various tributaries and minor streams in their general vicinity). The Coal Creek area includes Ben Creek, Sam Creek and Woodchopper Creek as well as their tributaries.

The earliest claims in the vicinity date to November 1901 when D.T. Noonan staked claim to the Gertrude Bench on Coal Creek. Two weeks later, ten additional claims were staked on both Coal Creek and Woodchopper Creek by men including a Swede by the name of John Holmstrum who first came to Alaska in 1898. Over the next 50 years, 565 claims would be staked or re-staked between the two creeks.

For thirty five years, following the first claims, the placers on Coal Creek and Woodchopper were mined by hand, using simple techniques shafts and drifts outlined above. In 1934 however, things changed dramatically when General Alexander Duncan McRae and Dr. Ernest Patty organized Gold Placers Incorporated and began developing the properties on Coal Creek for a dredging operation. In 1935, the Coal Creek Dredge was assembled, going into production in July. Also in 1935, upon Patty’s recommendation, the operation expanded into Woodchopper Creek with the organization of Alluvial Golds Incorporated, also owned by McRae and managed by Patty. The Woodchopper Dredge went into operation in 1936. Over the next 25 years, the two dredges recovered $6,335,190.93 in gold and silver from the two creeks. Gold Placers Inc. shut down their operations on Coal Creek in 1957 focusing their attention on Woodchopper Creek until 1960 when that dredge shut down effectively ending the dredging era in Yukon-Charley Rivers National Preserve. The shut down of the Woodchopper dredge brought a close to the significant mining era in Yukon-Charley.

Several individuals from the Fairbanks area acquired the claims on Coal Creek and Woodchopper Creek in the mid-1960s. These included Dan Coben and Dr. Ernest Wolff who purchased the Coal Creek claims subsequently selling them to William Lomerson of Texas. Under Lomerson’s management, the Coal Creek Dredge was operated to a very limited degree and shut down for the last time in 1977. Lomerson in turn sold the claims to the National Parks Conservation Association in the early 1980s. The NPCA then donated the land to the National Park Service.

In the early 1970s, Joe Vogler, an active personality on the Alaska political scene, bought the Woodchopper claims from Alluvial Golds. Following his murder in 1993, the claims are now controlled by the Vogler Estate.

Today, the villages of Eagle and Circle lie just outside the preserve boundaries on either end of the Yukon. Both communities figured prominently in early Alaska history as focuses of major gold mining activities. In fact, the Circle City Rush predates the Klondike Gold Rush by nearly five years and at one time, Circle City was known as the “Paris of the North” and held the prestige of being the largest log cabin town in the world. Although the strikes in the Klondike are the best known, previous discoveries were made and production began in tributaries along the upper Yukon in the mid-1880s with discoveries along the Fortymile River. Following these, in 1893, two Creoles, named Pitka and Sorresca made additional discoveries in what later became the Circle Mining District. Their initial discoveries were somewhere on Birch Creek. News of the discovery started an influx of prospectors into the area and in the following spring (1894) discovery of the placers on Mastodon Creek. As prospectors continued to probe the drainages surrounding Birch and Mastodon Creeks, gold was also discovered on Independence, Miller, Deadwood, and Boulder Creeks all within what eventually became the Circle mining district. In 1895, gold was found on Eagle Creek with discoveries made on Harrison and Porcupine Creeks later that winter. By 1896, active mining was taking place on all the principle streams in the Circle District. The streams on the south side of the Yukon are also the source of a great deal of placer deposited gold. Creeks such as Coal Creek, Woodchopper Creek, Ben Creek, Sam Creek and Fourth of July Creek all supported gold mining efforts in the early- to mid-twentieth centuries.

Eagle, Alaska was founded in 1897, reportedly by a disgruntled prospector from Dawson in an attempt to break way from the law abiding atmosphere maintained by the Northwest Canadian Mounted Police (now called the Royal Canadian Mounted Police or “Mounties”). Today, Eagle boasts a population of around 125 people. It has several small stores, a restaurant, a motel and a number of bed-and-breakfasts. The Eagle Historical Society and Museums Association maintain the largest museum (based on actual area covered) in the state. It is housed in five separate buildings. Eagle, Alaska was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1970 and was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1975. Eagle is reached via the Taylor Highway 165 miles from Tetlin Junction on the Alaska Highway or via a combination of the Top of the World Highway to the Taylor Highway if you are coming from Dawson City in the Yukon.

Millions of years ago, two crustal plates shifted along the Tintina Fault causing super-heated water to carry readily soluble mineral, including gold and silica, toward the surface. As the water cooled in a myriad of cracks formed in the fault zone, silica precipitated out forming quartz. Impurities such as gold trapped in the quartz concentrated as well.

Pockets of gold existed in the rock around the fault zone until erosional forces tore the gold from the quartz’ grip and sent it tumbling down mountain streams. As the gold churned with other rocks it gradually settled to the bottom. Placer mining has been the method used for recovering this gold since prior to the Klondike Gold Rush.

The Tintina Fault divides the preserve into two distinct geologic areas. The Tintina Fault is a strike-slip fault that runs parallel to the Yukon River corridor six to twelve miles south of the river. This fault is one of the great fault systems in western North America, extending 600 miles from northeastern British Columbia into Alaska.

Northeast of the Tintina Fault, the greatest bedrock diversity occurs in a triangle formed by the Nation and Yukon Rivers and the Canadian border. This triangular area is the only portion of east-central Alaska thought to be part of the original North American plate and it comprises a sequence of unmetamorphosed sediments (Precambrian, Cambrian, Ordovician, Silurian, Devonian, and Mississippian periods). These sedimentary rocks were once part of a continental margin and contain an outstanding record of marine faunal evolution that includes ammonites, trilobites, brachiopods, and corals. The oldest known microfossils from northwestern North America are also found in this triangular area.

The area southwest of the Tintina Fault is a sequence of complex igneous, metamorphic, sedimentary and volcanic rocks. These were probably metamorphosed and reformed when several small plates collided to form Alaska during the Cretaceous period.

The rocks north of the Yukon and overlying the Tintina Fault record in almost unbroken succession the history of the area from about 800 million years ago to the Cenozoic Era – about 40 million years ago – an incredible and perhaps unparalleled 760 million years.

The two most striking features of Yukon-Charley Rivers National Preserve are its two namesakes, the Yukon and Charley Rivers. The Yukon River traverses the preserve from east to west for approximately 145 miles of the river’s total 1800 mile length between Eagle on the eastern end and Circle on the western. Historically the river served as a transportation corridor for indigenous peoples, and later, into the nineteenth century for sternwheelers carrying the hopeful gold seekers first to the Klondike, then down river to Nome, and later throughout interior Alaska. Heading at approximately 4,000 feet elevation, the Charley River empties into the Yukon at only 700 feet above sea level. The preserve encompasses not only the entire 106 river miles of the Charley, but also its entire 1.1 million acre watershed. The preserve is bounded on the south by the Mertie Mountains with the Ogilvie Mountains in Canada to the northeast.

Other significant rivers within the preserve include the Tatonduk, Nation and Kandik Rivers all entering the Yukon from the north while the Charley enters from the south. The streams on the south side of the Yukon are also the source of a great deal of placer deposited gold. Creeks such as Coal Creek, Woodchopper Creek, Ben Creek, Sam Creek and Fourth of July Creek all supported gold mining efforts in the early- to mid-twentieth centuries.

Taiga, or boreal forest, reaches it’s northern limit at about latitude 67° 30′ N, which is just north of Yukon-Charley. This extensive forest thins into scattered stands of spruce mixed with hardwoods that follow the river valleys into the mountains to an elevation of about 2,100 feet. This spruce-hardwood forest takes two forms. White spruce usually in association with scattered birch or aspen is commonly found on moderate south-facing slopes. Heaths, such as bearberry, crowberry, Labrador tea, blueberry and cranberry are common as are willows. Lichens and mosses cover the forest floor along with a variety of herbs. Some large, pure stands of white spruce occur along rivers such as the Kandik, Nation and Charley.

Alpine tundra communities occur in mountainous areas and along well-drained rocky ridges. The soils tend to be coarse, rocky and dry. A community of low, mat-forming heather vegetation is characteristic of much of the area. Exposed outcrops of talus sustain sparse islands of cushion plants, such as moss campion and saxifrage, interspersed with lichens. The low-growth forms of these plants protect them from snow and sand abrasion in the windswept environment. Other important plants include dryas, willows, heather, lichens and especially reindeer lichens. Grasses, sedges and herbs are also present.

Moist tundra is found in the foothills and in pockets of moderately drained soils on hillsides and along river valleys. Cotton grass tussocks, 6-10 inches high, predominate in these areas. Tussocks form as a cotton grass clump, which grows, then dies back each year, accumulating dead leaves that decompose slowly in cold temperatures. Moses and lichens grow in the moist channels between the tussocks. Other plants include grasses, small shrubs (dwarf birch, willow and Labrador tea).

A number of species of fish are found within the preserve. These include arctic grayling, northern pike, and several species of salmon that make their annual migration up the Yukon River to spawn. Fishing is relatively poor on the Yukon due to the very silty water. The Yukon River is a brown, silt-laden river in the summer. Therefore, anglers will find the best fishing areas are at the mouths of or up the clear-flowing tributaries of the Yukon. Tributaries are good sources for arctic grayling, northern pike, sheefish, burbot, and whitefish. Other species found in this area, but rarely caught are arctic lamprey, least cisco, arctic cisco, Dolly Varden, lake chub, longnose suckers, and slimy sculpin.

Historically the Yukon River has been used as a major transportation route in both summer and winter. Today, rafting, kayaking and canoeing are popular on the Yukon River. The river is silt laden in summer due to glacial runoff, and it is completely clear in winter when glaciers are frozen. As the river enters the preserve near Eagle, it flows across a narrow floodplain flanked by high bluffs and heavily forested hills. The bluffs become less prominent as the river leaves the preserve near Circle. Many people start in Eagle and end in Circle, either arranging to be picked up, or to be flown back to Eagle. Longer trips, from Dawson or Whitehorse to the lower Yukon or even the Bering Sea, are also popular ways of traveling the Yukon through the preserve.

The journey from Eagle to Circle is 158 miles long with most visitors traveling from late May through September. The Yukon River flows at an average speed of 5 to 8 miles per hour. Trip length varies depending on weather conditions, type of boat, and whether visitors continually float during long daylight hours or if they stop to camp and explore. Visitors who float approximately 30 miles a day and camp each night usually take around 5 days to reach Circle. Extra supplies should always be taken in case trip time is extended due to weather or other unplanned events.

The Charley River is a cold, clear, intermediate free-flowing stream. Maximum stream flow occurs in late May and early June. The boating season usually begins in June, and there are generally sufficient flows to accommodate small boats through August. During periods of low water, it may be necessary to drag or portage a raft or kayak over shallow riffles and exposed rocks or gravel bars. The Charley River flows from its headwaters at approximately 4,000 feet elevation to its confluence with the Yukon at about 700 feet. With an average gradient of 31 feet per mile, the upper two-thirds of the river provides a challenging white water experience. When water levels are lower, maneuvering becomes a constant necessity, and some rapids require scouting to determine the best channel. Most of the Charley is rated as class II (intermediate) water on the international scale of river difficulty, with limited areas rated as class III (more difficult). During periods of high water on the upper sections of the Charley, boaters can encounter class IV rapids. Extra caution should always be exercised during these less common conditions. Inflatable rafts are recommended due to the difficulty maneuvering through boulder laden areas and because they are easily transported by air. Kayaks, open canoes or other vessels are not recommended. Visitors are urged to evaluate their level of experience before considering vessels other than rafts.

Most visitors to the Charley River charter a flight from Fairbanks, Circle, or Tok to the headwaters of the Charley, float downriver to the Yukon, and take out at Circle. Average float time from the headwaters of the Charley at Gelvin’s airstrip to the Yukon River (approximately 75 miles) is six days. An additional two days are needed to float the Yukon River to Circle (a distance of 70 miles). There are no rapids on this section of the Yukon. The Charley River basin (designated as part of the National Wild and Scenic River system) is managed as a wilderness area. The 1.1 million acres encompassed by this region are representative of un-disturbed ecosystems of Interior Alaska.

The Fortymile River, although not within Yukon-Charley Rivers National Preserve, is part of the National Wild and Scenic River System. The river is well-known for excellent whitewater boating opportunities and good road access. The Fortymile and its many branches run across land managed by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM), through the Yukon Territory and into the Yukon River upstream from Eagle. Popular trips begin at any of the Fortymile crossings of the Taylor Highway and end at Eagle.

There are no roads into the preserve and most trails are used only in the winter. There are no maintained trails in the preserve. Game trails and some old mining trails provide limited hiking opportunities. Most people find summer hiking best above timberline (3000′ – 3500′) because of fewer insects, less brush, improved vistas and less chance of surprising bears.

Hunting is permitted in Yukon-Charley Rivers National Preserve. However, you must follow state and federal hunting regulations. Yukon-Charley contains three game management subunits, 20E, 25B, and 25C. Each game management subunit could have different season lengths and bag limits, so it is important to be familiar with the regulations for the species that you are pursuing. The preserve contains areas of private land and Native corporation land where hunting is only allowed with the permission of the land owner. Hunters must also be careful not to inadvertently cross the international border between the United States and Canada. Contact Yukon-Charley staff for land status and boundary questions. Most hunters access the Yukon-Charley by driving to Eagle or Circle and boating into the preserve on the Yukon River. The majority of hunting camps are along the Yukon River where access is easier and visibility along the river is less restrictive. A few hunters fly and land in the preserve, and some float the Charley River by raft.

Jet boats have been the preferred mode of transportation by many hunters accessing the Kandik, Nation, Tatonduk, and lower Charley Rivers. Water levels on all of these rivers are extremely variable from year to year, but they are usually quite low by September. Water levels on the smaller rivers can drop quickly as the temperatures in the higher elevations of the drainage approach freezing. Traveling by jet boat on these narrow and winding rivers can be extremely challenging even for the seasoned veteran.

An annual average of 20,000 acres burns each year at Yukon-Charley Rivers National Preserve, and nearly all fire ignition sources are natural starts. The preserve encompasses over 2.5 million acres, 95% of which is managed as a Limited Management Option. While human life and specific resources are protected, fires that start on these designated lands are not aggressively attacked but allowed to burn so that fire continues to play its natural role as a dynamic natural process within this fire dependent ecosystem.

Geographic and climatic factors at Yukon-Charley Rivers National Preserve enable wildland fire to ignite and burn. The preserve lies within an interior basin, surrounded by mountains to the north and south. This area experiences high lightning occurrence, low precipitation and high temperatures in the summer months. Wildland fire has been an inextricable component of this ecosystem for thousands of years.

As visitors travel the Yukon and Charley Rivers, the two main thoroughfares, they witness a history of fire on the landscape, burned and unburned islands of vegetation, a fire mosaic. The aspen and birch reveal recent burns while spruce indicates a lack of fire activity for 200-300 years. Without the routine occurrence of fire, organic matter accumulates, the permafrost table rises, and ecosystem productivity declines. Vegetation communities, wildlife habitat, and wildlife become less diverse. Fire, the agent of change, removes some of the insulating organic matter, elicits a warming of the soil, and maintains and rejuvenates these systems.

Weather can often be extreme, with winter bringing temperatures to minus 60 degrees F, while summer can bring temperatures to 90 degrees F. Summer thunderstorms are common, and high winds can produce whitecaps on the Yukon. Self- sufficiency in all respects must be the guiding rule. Quality clothing that can be layered, sturdy camping and rain gear and good insect repellent are essential.

http://www.weather.com/outlook/recreation/outdoors/overview/US0003?from=search_vert

There are no commercial facilities of any kind located within the preserve. Visitors should always carry all necessary supplies with them whether boating, camping or backpacking. Float times vary depending upon weather and water conditions. The Eagle Visitor Center personnel will be happy to file a backcountry hiking plan for you to help add to the level of security for your trip but, always remember that in the backcountry, you must be self sufficient. Carry plenty of water. Satellite phones and GPS units are often quite helpful in the backcountry. Safe storage of food supplies will deter wildlife advances and protect visitors from unnecessary loss of food and equipment. It is advisable for a good backpacking list to bring a tent with rainfly (if not staying in one of the cabins), repair kit, backpack, sleeping bag, sleeping mat, compass, topographical map, signal mirror and/or whistle, water filtering system or tablets, collapsible water container, 1-2 quart water bottle, food, bear-proof container, flashlight with extra batteries and bulb, sunscreen, sunglasses, insect repellent, campstove, waterproof matches, magnesium fire starter, tightly sealed emergency rations, cooking pots and utensils, GPS, extra clothes and socks, garbage bags to carry out trash or protect your things from water, first aid kit and extra medications, two-way radio, and/or personal ELT.

The land on either side of the Yukon River between Calico Bluff, near Eagle, and just below the mouth of the Tatonduk River is privately owned. Hungwitchin Native Corporation asks that visitors refrain from camping along this 16 mile section of their lands.

Visitors are urged to exercise caution when floating the rivers in the preserve. Variable weather conditions and water levels can create unexpected hazards. Water temperatures are consistently low, even in the summer, posing a severe hazard of hypothermia. Life jackets are a minimum safety precaution and should be worn at all times while on the water. Helmets are recommended. Rivers are dynamic systems, and their routes may not always follow the course on river maps. Ranger patrols on the Charley River are infrequent at best. Visitors must be safety conscious, well prepared, and self-sufficient. Although permits are not required for floating the Charley River, it is strongly recommended that visitors file a voluntary float plan and notification of trip completion. To file a float plan, contact the Eagle field office or visitor center (907) 547-2233. Most visitors to the Charley River charter a flight from Fairbanks, Circle, or Tok to the headwaters of the Charley, float downriver to the Yukon, and take out at Circle. Average float time from the headwaters of the Charley at Gelvin’s airstrip to the Yukon River (approximately 75 miles) is six days. An additional two to three days are needed to float the Yukon River to Circle (a distance of 70 miles). There are no rapids on this section of the Yukon. Personal watercraft such as jet skis are not allowed.

There is no direct road access into the Charley River basin. The region surrounding the Charley River basin is accessible, however, by the Taylor and Steese highways, which terminate at Eagle and Circle respectively. Access to the river is gained either by boat (running and lining up-river from the Yukon) or by aircraft. Fixed wing aircraft with short takeoff and landing capabilities can land on primitive, unmaintained gravel airstrips at Gelvin’s, Three Fingers, or Joseph. The most popular airstrip is Gelvin’s, located in the upper portion of the Charley just above Copper Creek. Visitors beginning at Three Fingers or Joseph run a high risk of forced portaging or dragging boats.

Yukon-Charley Rivers National Preserve is one of those famous places that “you can’t drive there from here.” But you can get close. Two highways serve towns near the preserve boundaries. Driving to Eagle, Alaska along the 161-mile Taylor Highway begins at Tetlin Junction on the Alaska Highway and ends on the bank of the Yukon River, 10 miles upstream from the preserve. The Steese Highway begins in Fairbanks and travels 162 miles to Circle, 14 miles downstream from the preserve boundary. Check locally about road conditions before setting out and always bring sufficient emergency gear with you. It is recommended that you carry warm clothing, a first aid kit, food, water and two spare tires, just in case. No emergency kit is complete without the Alaskan’s favorite fix-all, a roll of duct tape.

Most visitors to the Charley River charter a flight from Fairbanks, Circle, or Tok to the headwaters of the Charley, float downriver to the Yukon, and take out at Circle. Average float time from the headwaters of the Charley at Gelvin’s airstrip to the Yukon River (approximately 75 miles) is six days. An additional two to three days are needed to float the Yukon River to Circle (a distance of 70 miles). There are no rapids on this section of the Yukon.

The Charley River basin (designated as a National Wild and Scenic River) is managed primarily as a wilderness area. The 1.1 million acres encompassed by this region are representative of some of the little-disturbed ecosystems of Interior Alaska. Local plants and wildlife are the full-time residents of this area and should be treated with respect. Peregrine falcon eyries may be encountered along the narrower sections of the river and should be avoided. Visitors are encouraged to practice minimum impact camping guidelines.

Due to low moose densities, the hunter success rate is usually less than 20%. Hunting regulations are enforced by National Park Service Rangers and Alaska Fish and Wildlife Protection Troopers. The Royal Canadian Mounted Police also conduct hunting patrols along the international border. For more information contact: Alaska Department of Fish and Game (800) 478-2376; U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service (800) 478-1456; or Yukon-Charley Rivers National Preserve (907) 547-2234.

Sport and subsistence fishing are permitted in Yukon-Charley Rivers National Preserve. However, you must follow state and federal fishing regulations. For regulation booklets and general information, visit, call, go online, or write to state and federal agency offices.

For state regulations, visit the Alaska Department of Fish and Game homepage at www.state.ak.us/adfg/adfghome.htm. Sport fishing licenses may be purchased at a local license vendor in Eagle, by mail from the Alaska Department of Fish and Game, P.O. Box 25525, Juneau, AK 99802-5525, or online. For more information call toll free (877) 9FISHAK.

Alaska residents may subsistence fish in Yukon-Charley for customary and traditional uses. Salmon are primarily harvested using gillnets and fish wheels. Spawning populations of chinook (king) and chum salmon in the upper Yukon River have declined in recent years, and subsistence fishing was closed by emergency order for most of the 2000 season. A permit is required for subsistence fishing on this section of the Yukon River and must be obtained from and returned to the Alaska Department of Fish and Game with catch information after permit expiration. For a subsistence permit, write to Alaska Department of Fish and Game, Division of Commercial Fisheries, 1300 College Rd., Fairbanks, AK 99701, or call (907) 459-7274. For federal subsistence fishery regulations visit their website, write to U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, Office of Subsistence Management, 3601 C Street, Suite 1030, Anchorage, AK 99503, or call (800) 478-1456.

Within Yukon-Charley National Preserve’s 2.5 million acres are many examples of Alaskan fauna. These run the gamut from microscopic invertebrates to charismatic mega fauna such as wolves, Grizzly and Black bears, sheep, caribou and moose. During the summer of 2000 even a solitary wayward muskox was spotted several times along the Yukon River hundreds of miles from its normal range. Yukon-Charley is home to a number of wolf packs. Although rarely seen, these beautiful animals range throughout the preserve and into the Fortymile area to the south. Moose populations in the eastern interior are considered by biologists to be low, approximately one moose per four square miles. Within the preserve there is the highest nesting density of peregrine falcons in North America. Many birds spend their summers in the area before flying south to winter in South America.

A number of species of fish are found within the preserve. These include arctic grayling, northern pike, and several species of salmon that make their annual migration up the Yukon River to spawn. Tributaries are good sources for arctic grayling, northern pike, sheefish, burbot, and whitefish. Other species found in this area, but rarely caught are arctic lamprey, least cisco, arctic cisco, Dolly Varden, lake chub, longnose suckers, and slimy sculpin.

There are black bears and grizzlies present as well as moose. See Wildlife Precautions page for further information on animal encounters.

There are no fees for this preserve.

Backcountry camping is permitted on any federally owned land within the preserve. Select a durable surface for your campsite. Gravel bars are recommended as campsites because they are breezy, discouraging insects and also provide a good view of potential animal encounters such as bears. Make sure to camp above water level in case the river rises. Bring what you need. Do not trench for tents or cut branches for beds. Use lighter soled camp shoes to lessen your impact. Keep all food, and trash and petroleum items in the cooking area. Please practice low impact camping techniques and leave camping sites free of refuse. Pack everything out and leave no garbage. Before you leave make every effort to return the campsite to a natural appearance.

The National Park Service maintains a number of public-use cabins located on the Yukon. These can be found at Nation Bluff, Glenn Creek, Washington Creek, the Kandik River and Coal Creek. They are all rich with history about the enterprising men that built them. It is a tradition in the northland that when a traveler is in need of shelter and warmth while traveling they can make use of any cabin they come across. It is expected however that they leave the cabin in the same condition, if not better then when they found it and that they fill the firewood box and leave the fixings for a fire near the stove. They are available at no cost on a first come, first served basis. However be aware that if others arrive you may have company, particularly in emergency situations.

Campgrounds and waysides operated by the Bureau of Land Management are located along the Taylor and Steese Highways. Both Eagle and Circle have small campgrounds located in or near the community.

Scheduled air taxis from Fairbanks serve Eagle and Circle, located up river and down river of the preserve, respectively.

Yukon-Charley Rivers National Preserve is primarily a wilderness. There is no road access. Two highways serve towns near the Preserve boundaries. The 161-mile Taylor Highway begins at Tetlin Junction on the Alaska Highway and ends at Eagle, 12 miles from the preserve. It is usually open from mid-April to mid-October and is suitable for cars, trucks and RVs. The Steese Highway is open year round. It begins in Fairbanks and travels 162 miles to Circle, 14 miles from the preserve. In good weather it takes about five hours to drive either of these gravel roads. Check locally about road conditions before setting out.

Eagle Ranger Station (Field Office), P.O. Box 167, Eagle, AK 99738
- or – National Park Service ( Fairbanks Hqrts), 201 First Avenue, Fairbanks, AK 99701

Visitor Information (907) 547-2233 (EAA)

Visitor Information (907) 547-2234 (EAA)

Headquarters (907) 457-5752 (FAI)

Fax (907) 547-2247

Map

The Wrangell-St. Elias Visitor Center is open year round 8-4:30 M-F, with summer hours 8-6 daily. The kennicott Visitor Center is open summertime 9-5:30 daily. The Slana Ranger Station is open all year with summer hours 8-4:30 daily and winter by appointment only. All McCarthy/Kennecott visitors are encouraged to visit the Ranger Station at Chitina, open daily during the summer months between 10:00 a.m. and 6:00 p.m. Remember that Chitina is the last place to obtain fuel and supplies before heading out.

It was proclaimed as Wrangell-St. Elias National Monument Dec. 1, 1978; established as a national park and preserve and a wilderness on Dec. 2, 1980; and designated a World Heritage Site Oct. 24, 1979. The park is part of a World Heritage site with Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve, and Kluane National and Tatsheshini-Alsek Provincial Parks in Canada. The World Heritage site contains 24 million acres recognized for exceptional interest and universal value. Research activities and many researchers from all over the world conduct their work in the virtually untouched and remote areas here.

Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve is named for Baron von Wrangell (the territory’s Russian Governor) and St. Elias (the day the range was viewed by Bering during his exploration of interior Alaska). It encompasses four mountain ranges including nine of the 16 tallest peaks in the United States. Since it is remote, the park has had little human occupation. Early caribou hunters began visiting the region about 8,000 years ago but the first known settlements appeared in the last 1,000 years with the arrival of the Ahtna Indian Culture. Game was always sparse in the region.

The spelling of Kennecott varies according to author, subject, and context. USGS geologist Oscar Rohn named the Kennicott Glacier in 1899 for Smithsonian naturalist Robert Kennicott, who died of heart failure while surveying near Nulato, Alaska in May 1866. The Park is the largest park in the National Park System, spanning over 13 million acres.

Local residents later applied that name to the Kennicott River. Both are spelled with an “i.” The Kennecott Mines Company (and its most famous successors, the Kennecott Copper Corporation and Kennecott Minerals Company) took its name from the glacier as well, but unaccountably spelled it with an “e.” Nevertheless, in the early 1950s the USGS decided to correct the company’s “error” by spelling the site’s name with an “i” on its topographical maps, and most local residents subsequently adopted that spelling. Still later, the National Park Service chose to recognize the importance of the site’s rich mining history by restoring its original spelling. Consequently, all NPS documents spell Kennecott with an “e.”

The Nabesna Road was originally built in 1933 by the Alaska Road Commission to supply Nabesna Mine and to ship out its ore. Today, the Alaska Department of Transportation maintains the Nabesna Road and, generally, the road is passable by most two-wheel drive vehicles. However, higher clearance and/or four-wheel drive are occasionally needed beyond Mile 29 due to stream crossings. Wet conditions such as spring run-off and heavy rain can make these stream crossings impassable. The last four miles of the road are not maintained and may be deeply rutted and wet. Vehicle travel on this portion of the road is not recommended.

Animal populations in Wrangell-St. Elias have always been scarce and the human history in the basin has been sparse. Caribou were the dominant ungulate in the area with populations throughout what is now the park. Moose and other game were less plentiful but still form an important part of a subsistence diet for communities in the basin. Along the coastal zones of the park, the Tlingit peoples hunted seals in Disenchantment and Icy Bays. These populations are thought to be declining and yet are still considered an integral part of the Tlingit subsistence diet. Other mammals exist in the Copper River Basin that forms much of the lowlands around the southwestern side of the park and preserve.

The park and preserve encompasses four mountain ranges including nine of the 16 tallest peaks in the United States. The four ranges, the Chugach along the southern coast; the Wrangell in the south central region; the Saint Elias that crosses into Canada; and the end of the Alaska Range on the northern borders, include some of the world’s largest glaciers and North America’s most remote wilderness.

The park’s coastal resources include the Yakutat area (Icy and Disenchantment Bays) and the Malaspina Forelands. Wrangell-St. Elias has over 1,000 acres of inter-tidal communities and over 125 miles of coastline.

The 61-mile McCarthy Road offers Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve visitors a unique opportunity to explore the wilderness of interior Alaska. National and historic wonders await those visitors willing to accept travel and access on Alaskan terms. Driving this road is an Alaskan adventure. Its gravel and dirt surface makes for slow travel-it can take 3 hours or more. At the end of the road, you will find parking areas and two foot bridges that cross the Kennicott River and lead to McCarthy and Kennecott. Access to McCarthy is by foot, bike, or shuttle. Traveling the McCarthy road provides access to incredible hiking, fishing, and camping, as well as the wonderful historic communities of McCarthy and Kennecott.

Beyond Chitina, the 60-mile gravel road follows the abandoned Copper River and Northwest Railway bed to the Kennicott River. You will experience spectacular views, high narrow bridges, dust, bumps, and real Alaska! Most people spend a minimum of two days exploring the McCarthy/Kennicott area. A Park Service kiosk is located 1 mile before the end of the road (mile 60). Primitive campsites and parking are available near the kiosk.

The Nabesna Road is a 42-mile gravel road from Slana to Nabesna that traverses the headwaters country of the Copper and Tanana drainages. It is a dusty, gravel, dead end road that is short on services but big on wilderness! The Nabesna Road offers Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve visitors a unique opportunity to explore interior Alaska. The drive is an adventure in the midst of the Wrangell, Mentasta and Nutzotin Mountains. Camping, hiking, wildlife viewing, fishing and hunting are just a sampling of the activities available just off of the road.

Begin your journey on the motor trail, Nabesna Road, by stopping at the Slana Ranger Station, mile .5, to check current road conditions and to pick up a Nabesna Road Guide brochure. Generally the road is passable by most 2-wheel drive vehicles. Occasionally, higher clearance is advised beyond mile 29 due to stream crossings. The maintained portion of the road ends at a private hunting lodge at mile 42. The road offers access to lowland tundra, habitat for moose, caribou, wolves and bear. The clear creeks and lakes are teaming with waterfowl and fish. The abrupt highlands of the Mentasta and Wrangell Mountains offer opportunities to spot Dall Sheep. Activities such as hiking, camping, fishing, mountain biking, flight seeing, and hunting are available. Backcountry access by off-road vehicles on established trails is allowed with a permit obtained from the Slana Ranger Station. Hikers may venture out on the trails but need to keep in mind that trails can be very muddy. Better hiking is available on the trails and routes that lead into the Mentasta Mountains north of the road or past mile 36. Another option for backpackers is to contract a short flight into the high country with an air taxi.

A hiking trip can be an exciting and rewarding wilderness experience if you are prepared for the difficulties and hazards of traveling through rugged, undeveloped land. Here, you will experience solitude, self-reliance, and unaltered nature to an extent seldom found elsewhere. Because there are very few maintained trails within the park, travel through dense brush, along steep scree slopes, and across fast and cold glacial streams and rivers should be expected.

For your fishing pleasure, when hot weather increases water temperatures then insect activity should be at its peak for the fly fishing enthusiast. Mayfly, stonefly and caddis imitations will take even the wariest grayling. The Gulkana River is a good place to try when the king salmon season winds down resulting in fewer salmon fishermen on the river. Fishing behind rocks and next to cut banks should produce the best results. Another good place to try is the Little Nelchina River on the Glenn Highway. Lake trout have moved into deeper water and trolling with large spoons and plugs with downriggers will be necessary to get the lure to the proper depth. Large colored jigs are also good bounced off the bottom. Paxson and Summit lakes, as well as the Tyone River drainage lakes of Lake Louise, Susitina and Tyone lakes are the primary lake trout fisheries in the area. Lakes stocked with rainbow trout to try are Van, Silver and Sculpin lakes off the McCarthy Road, Ryan, Tex Smith and Buffalo lakes off the Glenn Highway, Crater, Old Road and Round lakes off the Lake Louise Road and Squirrel Creek Pit and Pippin Lake on the Richardson Highway. Slow, erratically retrieved flies and small spoons or spinner’s are among the most productive lures. Fishing with salmon eggs suspended from a bobber can be equally productive. All 5 species of Pacific salmon are found within the Park; king (chinook) salmon, silver (coho) salmon, red (sockeye) salmon, pink (humpy) salmon and chum (dog) salmon. Kokanee salmon are also found in Copper Lake, but there is little opportunity in the park itself to catch salmon. The best place for kings and reds is the Gulkana River. Grayling, whitefish, Dolly Varden, lake trout, rainbow/steelhead trout, cutthroat trout, sculpin, burbot, lamprey, smelts, and suckers are all found in the park. You will need an Alaskan fishing license for anyone over 16 years of age.

Mountain biking opportunities are limited in Wrangell-St. Elias. Lack of maintained roads and rough, boggy conditions make riding difficult. Both the McCarthy and Nabesna Roads are appropriate for mountain bikes. Both offer spectacular scenery. Bikers should be prepared for wet, muddy, dusty, uneven, and rocky biking conditions. Dry creek beds along the Nabesna Road suitable for mountain biking include Lost Creek and Trail Creek. Suggested routes along the McCarthy Road include the Kotsina Road and the Nugget Creek Trail. From McCarthy one can ride to the ghost town of kennicott and to the Nizina River. There are also a number of trails in the Glennallen, Copper Center-Chitina area that you might also enjoy.

Sport hunting is only allowed within the national preserve and must be conducted in accordance with Alaska State Law. An Alaska State hunting license is required for all hunters age 16 or older. Bag and possession limits vary by species and by area. Always check current hunting regulations. Off-road vehicles (ORV), including all-terrain vehicles (ATV), may be used on established routes only. Sport hunters are required to obtain ORV permits at any Ranger Station or the Park Headquarters. Hunters and trappers using the park and preserve should be familiar with the park and preserve boundaries and regulations concerning the use of areas. Maps can be obtained from the park upon request. There are opportunities to hunt bear, Dall sheep, mountain goat, muskoxen, moose, waterfowl, and caribou.

Since 1900, four huge tidewater glaciers have retreated to form Icy Bay on the coast of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve. The protected, blue waters surrounded by spectacular glacial scenery and an abundance of wildlife are ideal for sea kayaking. The coastline of the park stretches 150 miles from Icy Bay (approximately 40 miles north of Yakutat). Most of this coastline is wild and exposed to the open waters of the Gulf of Alaska or Yakutat Bay except for the relatively calm waters within Icy Bay. Icy Bay is composed of four separate fjords resulting from the retreat of Guyot, Yahtse and Tyndall Glaciers. It is a dynamic glacial system. Calving tidewater glaciers, icebergs and barren rugged landscapes are predominant in the northern portion of the bay. Most kayakers access Icy Bay by chartering a small bush plane to drop them off at Kageet Point on the eastern edge of Icy Bay or Pt. Riou, located on Chugach Alaska Native Corporation land southeast of Icy Bay. Before flying into Pt. Riou, visitors should request permission by writing Chugach Alaska Corporation, 560 E. 34th Ave., Suite 200, Anchorage, AK 99503. Since access to Icy Bay is restricted to small bush planes only, most parties use collapsible kayaks. A few parties have traveled from Cordova and Yakutat by hard shell kayak. This requires traveling across the rough, open waters of the Gulf of Alaska and is not recommended. At this time, there are no folding kayaks available for rent in the area. Permits are not required for private trips although voluntary backcountry registration is recommended for your safety. Contact the Yakutat Ranger Station for forms.

Winters are cold and dark, with nighttime temperatures dropping to possibly 50 below zero! Average daily high temperature is from 5 to 7 degrees. Days are usually clear and northern lights dance overhead on most nights. Average snow cover in winter is two feet. In the spring, clear skies, increasingly longer days, and warming temperatures break winter’s hold on the land with dramatic quickness. Average highs are 40-50. Lows may still dip into the teens and single digits. Wildflowers and mosquitoes peak in June and July. Consider bringing a head-net. June and July are also the warmest months, with highs reaching near 80 on some days, but it can snow any month of the year in the high-country. The prime backcountry season is June 20 to August 20 due to snow depths at higher elevations. Drizzling rains are not uncommon throughout the summer and, in general, rainfall increases in August and September, especially along the coast. Fall can be delightfully clear, spectacular, and mosquito-free, but the season is short. Be prepared for rain, because September is sometimes cool and wet.

+ Rules, Regulations and Safety

+ Wildlife

+ Wildlife Warnings

+ Fees

+ Camping

+ Transportation

+ Contact the park

+ Mapquest

+ Rules, Regulations and Safety

+ Wildlife

+ Wildlife Warnings

+ Fees

+ Camping

+ Transportation

+ Contact the park

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Operating hours and seasons for the park are: mid-May through September 30- the visitor center is open daily, 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. and the Russian Bishop’s House is open daily, 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. October through Mid-May, the visitor center is open Monday through Saturday, 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. and the Russian Bishop’s House is open by appointment only. The visitor center contains ethnographic exhibits and houses the Southeast Alaska Indian Cultural Center, where visitors can watch Native artists at work. The Visitor Center is wheelchair accessible, and a wheelchair is available for public use. The gravel-based, wood chip-covered trails in the park are accessible with many types of wheelchairs.

The historic Russian Bishop’s House is not wheelchair accessible. An audiovisual presentation is available to those unable to tour the house.

Sitka National Historical Park, Alaska’s oldest federally designated park was established as a federal park in 1890. It was designated as a park by President Benjamin Harrison on June 21. The park has been known officially be several different names, including Sitka Park, Government Park, Indian River Park, Sitka National Monument, and Sitka National Historical Park. It is just as often referred to by its unofficial names, Lovers’ Lane or Totem Park. It became a national monument in 1910 to commemorate the Battle of Sitka fought between the Tlingits and the Russians. All that remains of this last major conflict between Europeans and natives of the Northwest Coast is the site of a Kiks.ádi Fort. The surroundings are largely unchanged, and with a little imagination one can conjure up scenes of the battle. In 1972, the monument’s name was changed to Sitka National Historical Park and its boundaries expanded to include the Russian Bishop’s House, a National Historic Landmark. Acquisition of the house brought more emphasis to the Russian American focus of the park and involved the park in a lengthy restoration project.

The Southeast Alaska Indian Cultural Center (SEAICC) was established in 1969 to impart the cultural values of Southeast Alaska Native Culture to students and visitors. The center achieves this goal by providing a place for local Sitka Tlingits to teach themselves about their own culture, while also helping Park visitors understand the Native people whose history is part of the Park story. Although it is housed in the Park visitor center, SEAICC is an independent, non-profit Native organization. SEAICC offers both students and visitors the opportunity to learn about Northwest Coast native art. Park visitors can view artists working and can talk to them about their craft and culture. In addition, SEAICC offers courses in traditional Tlingit art such as beadwork, weaving, bentwood box making, and box drum making.

Learn more about Sitka National Historical Park by participating in a Ranger-led activity. During the summer season, park rangers and volunteers present a number of interpretive programs each day. Battle Walk is a ranger-led walk to the battle grounds and former fort site to learn about this important event. Carved History Walk lets you learn the stories and legends of the totem poles in the park. The Russian Bishop’s House Tour represents a little known chapter in American history. One of only four Russian period buildings left in North America, the Russian Bishop’s House stands as a lasting legacy of the time when the Tsar ruled Alaska. Sitka National Historical Park also offers visitors a chance to experience the natural world. You can walk in a temperate rain forest under towering trees, observe migrating salmon, explore the intertidal zone, and study wildlife. Park rangers present a variety of naturalist programs to assist visitors in their understanding of the park’s natural environment.

Alaska’s District Governor John G. Brady brought a collection of totem poles to Sitka in 1905. These histories carved in cedar were rounded up from villages throughout southeastern Alaska. None of the originals came from Sitka, though this art form is very much a part of Tlingit tradition. Many poles exhibited along the park’s two miles of wooded pathways are copies of deteriorating originals now in storage.

The totem poles in the park are exhibited along a scenic coastal trail. Traditionally, the totems would not have been arranged in such a neat line. Imagine that you are an explorer in the early 19th century, sailing through southeast Alaska. As you come around a point, a native village comes into view. Close by the water are numerous single story rectangular houses and towering above the houses, at the corners and in front of them, are carved poles with striking designs and colors. With their striking designs and colors, totem poles are bold statements of the identities and stories of the people who carved them. A totem pole generally served one of four purposes: Crest poles give the ancestry of a particular family, History poles record the history of a clan, Legend poles illustrate folklore or real life experiences, and Memorial poles commemorate a particular individual.

Baranof Island is one of the most rugged of all the islands in southeast Alaska, with many high peaks and slopes. The outer coast is dotted with numerous small islands. The northern part of the island exhibits soil layers of volcanic ash from past eruptions of Mt. Edgecumbe. The park is located at the mouth of Indian River on Baranof Island. Indian River drains the post-glaciated valley encompassing approximately 7,800 acres, outlined by Mount Verstovia, Arrowhead Peak, the Sisters, and Gavan Hill. The park coastline is adjacent to Crescent and Jamestown Bays.

Pink and chum salmon enter the intertidal and lower floodplain channel segments of the Indian River to spawn from mid-July through September. Coho salmon, chinook salmon, and steelhead trout migrate upstream but have not been observed spawning in the park. The primary rearing and spawning habitat for coho salmon, chinook salmon, and steelhead trout is above the Sheldon Jackson College diversion dam. A fish pass along the dam allows upstream access for these species under certain flow conditions. Anadromous Dolly Varden enter the river in August, migrating upriver through the park to spawn farther upstream. Non-anadromous resident fish in the river include rainbow trout, coast range sculpin, and Dolly Varden. Marine species of fish common to the marine waters of Sitka also inhabit the intertidal and estuarine areas of the park.

The park’s intertidal and shoreline areas support a variety of migratory waterfowl and shore birds during spring and fall. Resident birds including common mergansers, mallards, spotted sandpipers, and great blue herons use the estuary, river, and tidal flats for foraging and protection. Sea birds such as common murres, scoters, harlequin ducks, scaup, buffleheads, and long-tailed ducks commonly use the park waters, particularly in winter. Gulls, crows, and ravens scavenge along the tidal flats and the river. Bald eagles are common in the general area, especially during the spring herring spawn and fall salmon runs, when eagles feed on fish carcasses in the river and adjacent tidal flats. At least one bald eagle nest is present in the park. Many passerine birds use the park for breeding, a wintering ground, or a migratory stopover including pine siskins, savanna sparrows, varied, hermit, and Swainson’s thrushes, robins, Townsend’s warblers, ruby-crowned and golden-crowned kinglets, kingfishers, dippers, and winter wrens.

Mammal species such as shrews, mice, voles, red tree squirrels, mink, and river otters also inhabit the park. Brown bears occupy the Indian River drainage and occasionally enter the park, often at the beginning of the salmon runs. Sitka black-tail deer also occasionally enter and forage in the park but are discouraged from doing so because of the development and human activity around the park. The endangered humpback whale and the threatened Steller sea lion are commonly sighted in marine waters around Sitka.

The vegetation in Sitka National Historical Park is a coastal temperate rainforest typical of southeast Alaska. Western hemlock closed-canopy forest type is found on all the stable landforms, including most of the park. Blueberry and devil’s club dominate the shrub layer. Occasional Sitka spruce is found in the over-story, frequently taller than the hemlocks. Much of the park is second-growth hemlock (100-125 years in age) that shows an over-story of relatively uniform height. In areas where the canopy has been opened through blow down of trees, there is a well-developed shrub under-story. Under the denser canopies there are fewer shrubs and limited forbs and ferns. The largest trees are in the forest in the northeast corner of the park. This forest exhibits old-growth characteristics such as multiple canopy layers, trees of varying diameters, snags (dead standing trees), and woody debris. One Sitka spruce is close to 500 years of age. Old cut stumps in this area suggest that selective logging may have been practiced here in the past.

Sitka experiences a temperate marine climate, characterized by heavy precipitation and a small temperature range between seasons. Most of the 96.6 inches average annual precipitation in Sitka occurs as rain. The wettest months of the year are September through November, with October receiving an average of 14.8 inches. Summer temperatures range from high 50′s to high 60′s F. Winter is rainy and snowy with temperatures from the high teens to the 40′s F. Rain gear and layered clothing are recommended year-round. Also if you are going to hike the trails, bring good hiking or walking shoes

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Please do not feed or harass the wildlife. There are a few bears occasionally in the park. See Wildlife Precautions page for animal encounter tips.

There is an interpretive fee for exhibits in the Visitor Center of $4.00 for 5 days. No fee for children under 13 years old. Fees will be charged May 8 – late September 2005; fees are not charged during the winter season.

Interpretive fee for tours and exhibits in the Russian Bishop’s House are $4.00 for 5 days. No fee for children under 13 years old. Fees will be charged May 8 – late September 2005; fees are not charged during the winter season.

A Family Pass is $15.00 annual fee and grants entry to both the Visitor Center and Russian Bishop’s House for one year from the month of purchase.

No roads reach Sitka from the mainland; the city is accessible only by air or sea. Commercial airlines fly directly from Seattle, Juneau and Anchorage. Sitka is also a port of call for ferries on the Alaska Marine Highway System.

Once in Sitka, visitors without cars can travel by foot, taxi, tour bus, or bicycle. The downtown area is not very large; most points of interest are within walking distance of each other. The Park is located at the south end of Lincoln Street, approximately one-fourth mile from downtown Sitka. The Visitor Center and Russian Bishop’s House are located about a ten minute walk apart in this essentially urban park.

Sitka National Historical Park, 103 Monastery Street, Sitka, AK 99835

Visitor Center (907) 747-0110

Business Office (907) 747-6281

Fax (907) 747-5938

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