The park is open year-round. Bullfrog Visitor Center is open April, 8 am – 5 pm and May through September, 10 am – 7 pm. It is closed from approximately November 1 to February 28 and opens intermittently in March. It is located on Highway 276. Exhibits relating to geology and the human and natural history of Glen Canyon, Ancestral Puebloan and pioneer artifacts, and a life-size model of a slot canyon can be found here. There’s also a bookstore, rest rooms and medical clinic (May thru early October only). Carl Hayden Visitor Center is open mid-September through mid-May, 8 am – 5 pm and mid-May through mid-September 8 am – 6 pm. It is closed Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Years. It is located at Glen Canyon Dam on Highway 89 in Page, Arizona. There are Ranger given map talks in the summer, an orientation film, and dinosaur tracks exhibit, as well as three-dimensional map of Glen Canyon NRA, photos and history of the construction of Glen Canyon Dam, a bookstore, rest rooms, and dam tours. Navajo Bridge Interpretive Center is open mid-April through October, 9 am – 5 pm and weekends only early April and November (hours: 10 am – 4 pm). It is closed December thru March. It is located on Highway 89A near Lees Ferry, Arizona. There is a pedestrian walkway across the old Navajo Bridge which spans the Colorado River 470 feet (143 m) below in Marble Canyon, an interactive video and a bookstore here. All visitor centers are handicapped accessible.
The Halls Crossing Boater Contact station is designed as a self-serve visitor information center. It is open from approximately 8am – 6pm in the summer. There are exhibits on boater information and safety, geology, and a history of Halls Crossing. Hans Flat Ranger Station is open intermittently. (435-259-2652) The Hite Ranger Station is open intermittently throughout the year and is located just off Highway 95 at Hite, Utah.
Various cultures have utilized area resources for thousands of years. The Ancestral Puebloan (“Anasazi”) culture is the most conspicuous, but evidence of other cultures, including Paleo-Indian, Fremont and Paiute are present. The Hole-in-the-Rock trail and historic site is a reminder of Mormon pioneer heritage and uranium mining claims date from the boom of the 1940′s and 50′s.
Prehistoric Indians migrated seasonally through the canyon country, but they left little evidence of their life here at Glen Canyon: a few stone tools, grinding stones, remnants of baskets. The Indians, known today as Ancestral Puebloans (called “Anasazi” by the Navajo, a word loosely translated as “ancient ones”), began to build masonry houses, kivas, and storage rooms. The Glen Canyon area was probably on the outskirts of Ancestral Puebloan settlement. No large communities were built in this area, but a few small cliff dwellings and other archeological sites have been found.
Scattered across the mesas and canyon country of the Southwest are remnants of the once-thriving Ancestral Puebloan culture: dwellings and storage rooms, pictographs and petroglyphs, potsherds, corn cobs, and baskets. These ancient structures and items are a legacy, linking us with the past. Within Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, only certain sites are designated “open” sites which may be visited: the Ancestral Puebloan sites of Defiance House, Three Roof, Widow’s Ledge (to the fence only), Hole-in-the-Rock Trail, Baker Bench Petroglyph Panel, Colorado River Petroglyph Panel, Baker Bench Petroglyph Panel, Lees Ferry Historic District, and Lonely Dell Ranch Historic District. All other sites are “closed” to park visitors. You may observe and photograph “closed” sites from a distance, but entering them is prohibited by law.
Defiance House, three miles up the middle fork of Forgotten Canyon, is one of the best-preserved Ancestral Puebloan dwellings in Glen Canyon. Defiance House was discovered in 1959. Exploring the area before Lake Powell was created, University of Utah archeologists followed a dangerous hand-and-toe-hold trail up the sandstone cliff and were delighted to find an Anasazi site where “most of the roofs were still in place, and… two perfect red bowls still had scraps of food in them.” They named the site “Defiance House” for the large pictograph (rock painting) of three warriors brandishing clubs and shields. Defiance House was occupied from about 1250 to 1285 AD. No one knows why the Ancestral Puebloans built in such an inaccessible place. The site is protected from the elements in the winter, and it is shady and cool in the summer. Or perhaps it was a place of refuge, easily defensible high in the cliff. The structures and rock art are very old and are fragile. Please do not sit, lean or stand on walls. Enter buildings only through doorways or by ladder into the kiva.
Cass Hite lived in Glen Canyon as long as anyone except the Ancestral Puebloans. Cass, who had been prospecting in the Navajo Mountain country, arrived in Glen Canyon in September, 1883. Cass was looking for gold, and he found it in the sands and gravels along the Colorado River. His discovery set off the Glen Canyon gold rush. Cass Hite had reached the Colorado River by way of White Canyon, and near its mouth, he’d found a good place to cross the river. He named it “Dandy Crossing.” Indeed, it was the best crossing of the Colorado River above Lees Ferry. The many prehistoric sites in the area suggest that this river crossing was well known to early inhabitants as well as to the Navajo.
Hopeful prospectors soon headed for Glen Canyon and the town they named “Hite City.” But the gold the miners found was all fine gold dust, difficult to recover, and mining operations soon petered out. Cass Hite built the first structure in the town site named after him. It was a cabin of notched logs salvaged from the river. A post office was established in 1889. Mail was brought by horseback from the railhead at Green River, 100 miles away. Cass and his brothers operated a small store in conjunction with the post office, services much appreciated by the miners and others passing through. Cass died at his ranch in Ticaboo Canyon in 1914. Cass Hite’s log cabin, the store, and the post office are gone now-submerged beneath the waters of Lake Powell.
The canyons and mesas of the region appear, at first glance, to be harsh and devoid of life. Upon closer examination, however, there is an amazing variety of plants and animals to be found in Glen Canyon. Black-tailed jackrabbits, ravens and other birds, and a variety of small lizards are the most common animals encountered. Watch for collared lizards which are very patient and offer unusual photo opportunities. Large mammals, such as mule deer, beaver, Rocky Mountain elk, and coyotes may be spotted occasionally. A small population of desert bighorn sheep inhabits the rugged canyons and slickrock mesas east of the river, but they are rarely seen. Canyon wrens, warblers, cedar waxwings, western tanagers, and northern harriers are readily seen and will make it worth your while to bring binoculars for some great bird watching.
Plant communities vary from pinyon-juniper woodlands in higher elevations to riparian zones where Fremont cottonwoods and willows predominate. In between are blackbrush/Indian rice grass, shadscale, and sagebrush communities. Among the most unique sights are the “hanging gardens” found clinging to sandstone walls where seeps provide plentiful water. Delicate maidenhair fern is the most common plant found here. Springtime presents delightful opportunities to photograph and enjoy such wildflower species as the claret cup, cliffrose and Fremont barberry, while shooting-stars, scarlet gilia and bearded beardtongue bloom through the summer.
At an elevation of 6,000′ is a different life-zone. At the higher elevation grows a forest of pinion and juniper. Both of these trees were utilized by Indians and early settlers. The pinion produces tasty, nut-like seeds which can be roasted, ground, or eaten raw. The juniper cones (which look like berries) are edible and are used as flavoring in gin. Although not related to the true cedars of the Mediterranean, the fragrant wood of the juniper is often used for “cedar” shakes, boxes, and chests.
Lake Powell has much to offer in the way of water activities for the whole family. You could rent a houseboat and swim and fish right off the side or use personal watercrafts to explore other areas of the lake. You will be able to kayak, scuba dive, water ski, and explore the lake’s numerous side canyons by boat. There are plenty of marinas to help keep you having fun on your family vacation.
Wahweap Marina, located 5.5 miles (8.9km) from the visitor center along Lakeshore Drive near Page, Arizona, is the largest marina site on Lake Powell. It offers a wide variety of visitor services and opportunities for recreation. The city of Page also offers numerous visitor services and is the site of Glen Canyon Dam. Wahweap Marina was named for Wahweap Canyon, a side canyon of the Colorado River now covered by Lake Powell. “Wahweap” is a Paiute word meaning bitter or alkali water. In the days before Glen Canyon dam, this was a favorite stopping place for river runners on the Colorado, as well as a favorite camping spot for cowboys running cattle in the area. Both the marina and the city of Page owe their existence to Glen Canyon dam. Prior to the 1960′s, neither existed.
Dangling Rope Marina, 40 miles (64km) up-lake from Glen Canyon Dam, replaces the marina that was formerly in Forbidden Canyon near Rainbow Bridge National Monument. This marina is accessible only by water. According to the late author and Glen Canyon historian C. Gregory Crampton, the canyon was named Dangling Rope Canyon in the pre-dam days when some river runners found a rope dangling down from a 40-foot (12m) cliff wall. At the same location were some pecked steps, possibly of prehistoric origin. It appeared, however, that the steps had been enlarged at some time, probably by uranium prospectors in the region in the 1940′s and 50′s. At Dangling Rope, the National Park Service provides a ranger station, restrooms, free boat pump-out station, and emergency communications. During the summer season, interpretive rangers are stationed at nearby Rainbow Bridge National Monument. Rangers from Glen Canyon National Recreation Area patrol Rainbow Bridge National Monument and provide visitor information, even though the monument is a separate unit of the National Park Service and is subject to more stringent regulations regarding visitor use & activities than is Glen Canyon NRA.
Halls Crossing Marina was a place well-known on the Colorado River long before the creation of Lake Powell. It was the site of a popular river crossing for many years. Today, Halls Crossing Marina, located on the eastern shores of Lake Powell across from the Bullfrog Marina, offers many services to visitors. It’s about 95 (153km) miles upstream from Glen Canyon Dam. The National Park Service maintains a ranger station at Halls Crossing. It also provides a launch ramp and free boat pump-out station.
Charles Hall was one of the first pioneers to settle in southern Utah. A skilled carpenter and one of the founders of Escalante, Utah, Hall built the boat at the Hole-in-the-Rock which ferried the pioneer company across the Colorado River in 1870.Hall continued operating the ferry with his two sons at that location, but the route was very arduous. In 1880, he found an easier crossing 35 miles (56km) upstream, the present site of Halls Crossing.
The State of Utah maintains a regularly scheduled ferry, capable of carrying cars, trucks; RV’s and trailers, which runs between Halls Crossing and Bullfrog. This is a fee service and is available on a first come, first served basis. The ferry is occasionally out of service for repairs. If ferry service is crucial to your trip, we recommend you call ahead to verify that it is in service.
Bullfrog Marina is approximately 95 miles (153km) up-lake from Glen Canyon Dam, with the Waterpocket Fold on one side and the Henry Mountains on the other. It offers the largest array of services of any of the up-lake marinas. The National Park Service provides a launch ramp, portable toilet dump station, free boat pump-out station, picnic area, fish cleaning station, and paved landing strip for aircraft.
It is uncertain just exactly how Bullfrog got its name. In the days before the dam, there was a small rapid on the Colorado River at the mouth of Bullfrog Creek (now Bullfrog Bay). The rapids were named Bullfrog Rapids, probably after the creek. Older maps, however, show Bullfrog Creek on the east side of the river. The drainage that is now Bullfrog Bay was called Pine Alcove Creek on these maps. The most probable scenario was that Bullfrog was mis-named for Bullfrog Creek.
Another story is that Bullfrog was named for a rock formation found on Mount Elsworth, in the Henry Mountains just north of Bullfrog. Though there is no evidence to support this theory, you can see what appears to be a large frog stretched out on the west face of Mount Elsworth when driving south to Bullfrog on Highway 276. This formation is especially visible in the late afternoon sun.
The Escalante Subdistrict has no marina or launch ramp to access to Lake Powell. It does, however, provide for some of the best backcountry hiking and camping experiences within Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. The lower section of the Escalante River, approximately 12 miles, can be reached by boat from the main channel of Lake Powell. All of the canyons in the Escalante drainage feature excellent hiking opportunities.
The Escalante River was named in 1872 by A.H. Thompson, a member of the Powell Survey who passed through the upper basin area on a mapping expedition. He was traveling through the area again in 1875 when a group of Mormon pioneers were planning a settlement in the area. Thompson suggested they name their new town Escalante. The name comes from the Dominguez-Escalante Expedition of 1776. Two Spanish priests, Frs. Dominguez and Escalante, traversed much of the southwest in a grueling expedition in an attempt to reach California from Santa Fe, New Mexico. The party did not reach the Escalante drainage, but Thompson, who knew the history of the area, thought it would be a good way in which to honor one of the first known explorers of the Southwest.
Ranching was one of the primary occupations of the new village and the cowboys soon began to push their way into the many canyons of the Escalante seeking good grass and lost cattle. They were among the first non-Indians to see the arches, bridges, alcoves, and other wonders which draw visitors today.
The Escalante Interagency Office is located on the west side of town. This houses a visitor information center, as well as the combined offices for the Dixie National Forest, the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, and the Escalante Subdistrict of Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. The Visitor Center is open 7 days a week, 7:30 AM to 5:30 PM from mid-March through the end of October. The remainder of the year it is open from 8 AM to 4:30 PM Monday through Friday.
The Escalante River flows in exquisite desert canyons before emptying into Lake Powell, some 80 miles from its source. However, the river’s potential for running is limited. Generally, only peak spring runoff flows are runable. While high water periods may vary, peak runoff usually lasts for about two weeks, but many occur anytime from early April through May. Check with the BLM or NPS in Escalante for current conditions. An inflatable kayak is preferred for running the Escalante. The water is quite shallow and boats must be able to slide over rocks and gravel without structural damage. Rubber rafts are not recommended because of their width and bulk; hard shell craft are often damaged due to the numerous obstructions. Depending on your take-out point, weight will be a factor as some take-outs require a hike of up to three miles with an elevation gain of 800 to 1000 feet. Therefore, choose a craft that is light and maneuverable for the float as well as the hike out.
The best put-in is where Highway 12 crosses the river, fourteen miles east of Escalante. Floaters may take out at the confluence of Coyote Gulch and the Escalante River, but a strenuous hike up a steep sand dune via “Crack-in-the-Wall” to the trailhead at Fortymile Ridge is required; the elevation gain is nearly 900 feet. You may also paddle across Lake Powell down the Escalante Arm and around to Hole-in-the-Rock. This take-out requires only a 1/2 mile hike, but the elevation gain is a steep 600+ feet and requires climbing over boulders and ledges to reach the top. The easiest take-out is to have a motor boat pick you up on Lake Powell.
Low water is the biggest obstacle to float trips. A flexible schedule is required to have your trip coincide with high water. Check frequently with the BLM or NPS for current conditions. Water volume generally doubles with the addition of water from Boulder Creek and Deer Creek, about six miles downriver from Highway 12. Portaging or lining boats through riffles may be required. Several fences also cross the river, so floaters must remain alert.
Geologic formations exposed in the Escalante Canyons are sedimentary layers deposited millions of years ago during the Triassic and Jurassic periods. These layers were alternately deposited by shallow seas, vast deserts and sluggish streams. Listed below are the predominant rock layers found in the canyons. Please note that formations are listed in order from lower to upper layers.
Chinle Formation: Laid down by meandering streams and shallow lakes, this multi-colored formation is seen in the upper reaches of east side tributaries. It erodes fairly easily, undercutting the Wingate sandstone above, resulting in boulder strewn slopes. This formation is found predominantly in the Circle Cliffs area.
Wingate Sandstone: Deposited as sand dunes when a huge desert covered the region, this formation, when undercut by the Chinle below, forms angular vertical-walled cliffs.
Kayenta Sandstone: This formation has alternating hard and soft layers laid down by sluggish streams. Where exposed, the Kayenta forms ledges and terraces.
Navajo Sandstone: This sandstone was also deposited as desert dunes and aries in color from white to yellowish and light orange. Lying above the erosion-resistant Kayenta, it forms domes and rounded surfaces. The Navajo is the primary formation found in those canyons which flow to the river from the west. Most arches and natural bridges in the area are found in this formation.
Carmel Formation: Deposited by shallow seas, this siltstone-like formation was formed during the Jurassic Period. Its color varies from maroon and purple to gray and brown. Found west of the river in the Harris Wash, Egypt and Early Weed Bench trailhead areas.
Located 15.3 miles (24.4 km) down the river from Glen Canyon Dam, Lees Ferry is a meeting of the old and the new ferry. Lees Ferry is the only place visitors can drive to the Colorado River in over 700 miles of Canyon Country, right to the first “rapid” in the Grand Canyon. A natural corridor between Utah and Arizona, Lees Ferry figured prominently in the exploration and settlement of Northern Arizona. Lees Ferry is now a meeting of the old and the new. The Lees Ferry and Lonely Dell Ranch Historic District offers a glimpse of the old western life from the pioneers in the late 1800’s, through the miners at the turn of the century, to the ranchers of the 1940’s. Two self-guided walking tours interpret two different parts of the district: the Ferry and the Ranch.
Just upstream from the Lees Ferry Launch Ramp is the ferry-crossing site and several historic buildings. A “Walking Tour Guide” may be purchased at the entrance to the area. It tells the story of the different ferryboats and the pioneers, miners, Indians, and tourists who crossed here from 1872 until 1928. The complete tour is about a 1-mile (1.6-km) roundtrip. Take drinking water with you.
The Lonely Dell Ranch near the mouth of the Paria River was home to the families who operated Lees Ferry. In the 1870’s and 1880’s, the place was so isolated that the families working at the crossing needed to be self-sufficient, growing food for themselves and their animals. Hard labor changed the barren desert into a green oasis. The main ranch buildings are about 700 feet (213 m) up the dirt road from the parking area. A “Walking Tour Guide” may be purchased at the entrance to the ranch. The complete tour of the orchard, log cabins, stone ranch house, and pioneer cemetery is about a 1-mile (1.6-km) round trip. There are picnic tables and shade trees at the ranch. Take drinking water with you.
Lees Ferry continues to be a center of modern activity. Here at the very start of the Grand Canyon, adventurous river runners launch their boats for trips down the canyon. Fishermen enjoy world-class trout fishing upstream to Glen Canyon Dam. Backpackers finish their 4 or 5 day hike through the Paria Canyon Wilderness Area here. Day-hikers explore slot canyons and desert ridges.
Hiking at Lees Ferry offers several options for outdoor adventure. River Trail starts at the launch ramp and follows the old wagon road past the fort to the upper ferry-crossing site. A “Walking Tour Guide” is available. The two-mile round-trip walk takes about an hour. Fishermen’s trails continue upstream another half a mile, but there is no access into lower Glen Canyon. Paria Canyon Trail starts at the Lonely Dell Ranch parking area and continues 45 miles upstream to Hwy 89 in Utah. Overnight hikes require a permit from the Bureau of Land Management. Day hikers can enjoy the unique geology of the area. Please use the 14-day parking lot if you will be out overnight. Cathedral Canyon is a two-mile (3.2-km) round-trip hike that is not along a defined trail. You must find your own way down the intermittent stream bed, or wash, inside a narrow slot canyon with interesting rock formations. Be alert for flash floods. There is a rapid and beach along the Colorado River at the mouth of the canyon. Parking for this hike is at the second pullout from Hwy 89A, along the Lees Ferry Road. Spencer Trail is a historic trail that climbs 1700 feet up the cliff behind the Lees Ferry Fort. It is not regularly maintained but is passable to careful hikers. Views down Marble Canyon are memorable.
The canyons of the Escalante River offer many fascinating hiking/backpacking trips. The Escalante is rugged country with no formal trail system. Hikers should be experienced in the use of map and compass and thoroughly familiar with the techniques of canyon and slickrock hiking. Maps and other information are available at the Interagency Visitor Information Center in the town of Escalante. Always consult with a ranger at the Information Center for route information, trail and weather conditions, and other necessary information needed for a safe trip.
Moody Creek is a 6 mile one-way trip that is scenic and moderately strenuous, without technical difficulties. It leads into Moody canyon where you’ll see extensive, richly-colored exposures of the Chinle formation and an old uranium exploration camp. Davis Gulch is a 3.5 to 4 mile hike one-way past a number of beaver ponds which must be waded through or circumvented. Fiftymile Creek has two trailheads. From Cave Point trailhead to Lake Powell is 5.2 miles one- way. The Soda trailhead to Lake Powell is 5.5 miles one-way. There are no technical difficulties on either hike. There are opportunities for some rock climbing and wading. Harris Wash trailhead to the Escalante River is 10 miles one-way. Harris Wash is an easy hike with no technical difficulties. The stream must be continually crossed or waded. Wear appropriate shoes.
Coyote Gulch/Hurricane Wash is 12.3-13 miles one-way. The hike through Coyote Gulch is relatively easy, with two minor exceptions – a climb down a ledge near a waterfall and a steep descent down sandstone followed by a rather difficult climb down a second ledge. Coyote Gulch contains two arches, a natural bridge, and several waterfalls. It is easy to understand why this beautiful canyon is by far the most popular hiking destination of all the canyons of the Escalante. When hiking in Coyote Gulch in spring or fall, plan on encountering a number of other visitors. A minimum of three days will be required to explore the length of Coyote Gulch.
Twentyfive Mile Wash is 7-14.2 miles one-way depending upon where you start from. At least two to three days should be spent exploring the wash. Twentyfive Mile Wash presents an easy hike with no technical difficulties. Wading shoes are needed for walking in the stream. The streambed tends to contain a considerable amount of clay, so the wash presents a somewhat “muckier” hike than other canyons, especially after high stream flows. Scorpion Gulch is a 3.3 to 5.5 mile hike and is rather challenging, requiring cross-country route-finding skills. There is a lengthy hike over slickrock and sand, a descent down a sand dune, and walking through soft sand and alluvial deposits. The lower half of Scorpion Gulch is an easier walk beside a small stream with no difficulties other than two boulder jams and a small pour off, requiring some minor scrambling. Fence Canyon can be reached by the Egypt trailhead on a 2.75 mile one-way hike that leads to the river. A beautiful panorama awaits you from the Egypt trailhead at the edge of Allen Dump Bench. You can see views of the Escalante country, the Henry Mountains, and Fence Canyon as it leads toward the Escalante River. Fence Canyon is primarily used as a route to the Escalante River and other canyons up- or downstream, but Fence Canyon itself presents an interesting day hike.
Wahweap offers several day hiking options also. Glen Canyon Dam Overlook is a very short walk that takes you to a viewpoint on the canyon rim high above the Colorado River. It affords an unparalleled view of the river, the canyon, and Glen Canyon Dam. Horseshoe Bend View is a short hike that takes you to a spectacular view of Horseshoe Bend and the Colorado River from high atop the canyon rim. Wiregrass Canyon is a longer, more strenuous hike that takes you into Wiregrass Canyon, a steep-sided wash which leads down to Lake Powell. The hike through the wash provides views of colorful cliffs, balanced rocks, alcoves, and natural bridges. Wiregrass Canyon provides little shade, and the rocks reflect the sun’s heat. Fall, winter, and spring are the best times for this hike. If hiking in the summer, start as early in the morning as possible.
Lake Powell has created a new realm for fishermen. Before Glen Canyon Dam was built, the Colorado River was so full of silt that only carp, catfish, suckers, and the Colorado River squawfish could survive in its murky waters. Now, abundant game fish thrive in the clear waters of Lake Powell. Introduced species such as bass and crappie as well as walleye, bluegill, and catfish challenge the avid fisherman. The striped bass was introduced into Lake Powell in 1974. This fish can live in both fresh and salt water, and can be recognized by the series of dark stripes running the length of the back and sides. The largemouth bass has adapted to a wide variety of habitats. The body of this fish is elongated with dark green sides and a silvery belly. A broad, dark horizontal band with irregular patches extends midway on the sides. Smallmouth Bass is similar to the largemouth bass, but it has a smaller jaw and is bronze rather than greenish in color. Channel Catfish is prized both as a sport and food fish. The body is pale bluish-olive above and bluish-white below. Spots vary from a few to many. Endangered fish include Squawfish, Humpback Chub, Bonytail Chub, and Razorback Sucker.
The backcountry and primitive roads of Glen Canyon National Recreation Area are a great way to enjoy the scenery of the Colorado Plateau while mountain biking or scenic driving. In Wahweap, there is Warm Creek Road, Crosby Canyon Road, Alstrom Point Road and Grand Bench Road. These vary in difficulty and can be sandy or rocky. The Bullfrog/Escalante area has Hole-in-the-Rock Road, Purple Hills and Burr Trail. Halls Crossing/San Juan has Hole-in-the-Rock Road, a continuation of the pioneer trail from Escalante, and John’s Canyon. These are rocky and require hiking. Orange Cliffs has Flint Trail, North Hatch Canyon, Panorama Point/Cleopatra’s Chair, Land’s End/Big Ridge, Standing Rocks, Brown’s Rim, Blue Notch and Elaterite Basin. The roads offer interesting geologic views along with Indian and cowboy petroglyphs and excellent scenic views, although they can be rough travel. Road conditions may vary depending on the time of year and recent weather conditions. Inquire locally before setting out! Take along a shovel and plenty of water.
John Atlantic Burr was born in 1846 aboard the SS Brooklyn somewhere in the Atlantic Ocean. He and his family lived in Salt Lake City, then later moved south and established the town of Burrville, Utah, in 1876. John Burr soon developed a trail to move cattle back and forth between winter and summer ranges and to market. This cattle trail through the rough, nearly impassable country around the Waterpocket Fold, Burr Canyon, and Muley Twist Canyon came to be known as the Burr Trail. Today, the road which connects Bullfrog and Boulder, Utah, and which passes through the painted rock country of Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Capitol Reef National Park, and Bureau of Land Management (BLM) land is known as the Burr Trail.
Although in dry weather the Burr Trail is easily accessible to passenger cars, wet weather may make the road impassable even for 4WD vehicles. Check with rangers or local officials for weather and road conditions. Recreational vehicles are not recommended. There are many trailheads off of this road that lead to spectacular views of canyons, arches and mountains. The Navajo Mountain and Henry Mountains and the Waterpocket Fold, a 100-mile long bend in the earth’s crust, extending from Thousand Lake Mountain in the north to Lake Powell in the south; can be viewed along this route. The mountains are laccoliths, formed when magma pushed overlying sedimentary rock up into a dome. The Navajo Mountain is rounded, but the Henry Mountains have much of the sedimentary rock that has since been eroded away, exposing much of the igneous rock underneath. There are five peaks ranging from Mt. Holmes at 7,930′ elevation to Mt. Ellen at 11,615′ elevation. The Henry Mountains were among the last important mountain ranges in the continental United States to be named. When Major John Wesley Powell saw them in 1869, during his exploration of the Green and Colorado Rivers, the Henry Mountains did not appear on any official map. Powell first called the mountains the “Unknown Mountains,” but he later named them for Professor Joseph Henry, who was Secretary of the Smithsonian Institute at that time.
Driving the Hole-in-the-Rock Road also offers several different perspectives of the canyon. The portion of the Hole-in-the-Rock road which runs from Escalante, Utah to the Hole-in-the-Rock on the western shore of Lake Powell offers the easiest routes with the eastern side being rougher and requiring a four-wheel drive. This 62 mile (100km) drive (one way) follows the general route of the original Hole-in-the-Rock expedition of 1879. Most of the road is on land managed by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM); however the last approximately 5 miles are within the boundaries of Glen Canyon NRA. Most of the road on BLM land is passable to high-clearance, two-wheel drive vehicles in dry weather. The last few miles within Glen Canyon are best traveled by foot, bicycle, or four-wheel drive vehicle. There are numerous side-roads that leave this main road. Nearly all of these are only recommended for four-wheel drive.
Devil’s Garden has spectacular rock formations. This site has been designated as an Outstanding Natural Area by the BLM. Always carry water when walking in the desert! Twenty Mile Spring, now called Collett Wash, is where the pioneers had to dig in the sand for water. Dance Hall Rock is a large, solid sandstone amphitheater. The pioneers set up a base camp near here and held dances in the natural theater, accompanied by violins, to keep the morale up. Hole-in-the-Rock Arch has a commemorative plaque mounted in stone next to the road, pointing out a natural arch at the top of the Kaiparowits Plateau. Careful observation will reveal faint remains of wagon tracks to the side of the road. Construction of the Hole-in-the-Wall passageway was very difficult. The workers were plagued by lack of wood, forage for cattle, bitter cold, and diminishing food supplies. Blasting powder and picks were used to widen and/or fill various sections of the crevice. At the lower part of the Hole, a road was constructed on the side of a sheer cliff wall. Although a three-foot shelf had already existed, an extension to the shelf was formed by driving two-foot stakes into the rock and piling vegetation and rocks on top. This portion of the trail was nicknamed “Uncle Ben’s Dugway” in honor of its engineer, Benjamin Perkins. After six weeks of picking, chiseling, drilling, blasting, and digging, the Hole-in-the-Rock road had been completed.
Hole-in-the-Rock is accessible by boat from Lake Powell. It is located at buoy 66, which is 66 miles (106 km) up-lake from Glen Canyon Dam or approximately 30 miles (48 km) down-lake from Bullfrog and Halls Crossing. Boaters may tie up along the rocky shoreline. The trail is to the right and is easier to follow above the high water mark. Look for the informational exhibit on the right-hand slope. When hiking, be sure to notice the miners’ stairs, added by the Hoskaninni Mining Company around the turn of the century, as well as grooves and gouges from the wagon wheels and hubs of the original pioneers.
Summers are extremely hot, with little, if any, shade. Winters are moderately cold with night time lows often below freezing. Spring weather is highly variable with extended periods of winds. Fall weather is usually mild. Temperatures range from 110° F (38°C) in June & July to O° F (-16°C) in December & January. Precipitation is generally light (less than 6 inches–15.2cm– annually) though heavy rains and flash flooding can occur in spring and summer.
Thunderstorm season is from mid-July thru September and is the period when flash flood danger is greatest. Flash floods may occur anytime, however, so keep an eye on the sky–especially before entering a narrow canyon. Camp above the flood plain each night to avoid an unpleasant “midnight surprise.” Remember that storms several miles away may cause flash floods where you are, even though you are enjoying clear skies.
Lees Ferry is rugged country. Temperatures can be extreme, ranging from 0° in the winter to 115° F in the summer (-18° to 43°C). Avoid the heat. Wear reflective clothing and a hat. Use sunscreen. Flash floods are possible during stormy weather and can occur even when the sky is clear overhead. Carry plenty of water – at least one gallon (4 L) per person per day. Ask at the ranger station for further information and current hiking conditions. Do not hike alone. Pack out everything that you pack in. Carry out all trash and food scraps. Tell someone where you are going and when you will return.
Persons planning to hike overnight within Glen Canyon National Recreation Area are required to obtain a free Backcountry Use Permit before commencing; overnight hikers visiting Bureau of Land Management administered lands need to obtain the same permit. These permits help provide statistical information which assists resource monitoring and management. Route itinerary information can help personnel locate hikers should an emergency occur or a search effort for overdue hikers be necessary. The best months for hiking the canyons are March thru mid-June and September and October. The waterproof Trails Illustrated map, USGS topographic maps, the Escalante Resource Area Recreation Map, and other publications are available for sale at the Escalante Interagency Visitor Center. Topographic maps may also be ordered from the USGS, Public Inquiries Office, 125 South State Street, Salt Lake City, UT 84138. Water availability varies from hike to hike. An abundance of springs may be available on some hikes; other hikes may have no water at all. Always filter or boil water since Giardia or other pathogens may be present. Stay on established roads and trails. Watch your step. Do not hike on cryptobiotic crust (the dark crusty growth on top of the sand). Keep children nearby at all times. Do not leave children or pets in closed vehicles.
Remember that a good backpacking checklist will make your stay in the wilderness more enjoyable and safe. Some needed things are: tent with rainfly, sleeping bag and mat, ground cover, backpack, layered clothing suitable for the season, food, water, water purification system, collapsible water container, 1-2 quart water bottle, first-aid kit, extra medications, repair kits, camp stove, matches, fire starter, cooking and eating utensils, toilet kit, flashlight with extra batteries and bulb, knife or multipurpose tool, rain gear, a 20-30 foot length of rope, garbage bags, small trowel, topographical map, compass or GPS unit, sunglasses, sunscreen, and wide brimmed hat.
Large groups cause more impact to trails and campsites and concentrate human waste. They are also more obtrusive and diminish the wilderness experience for others. For these reasons, the recommended group size limit is eight persons. The maximum number of people allowed in the backcountry of the Escalante is twelve. Pack and saddle stock are also limited to twelve animals. In canyons, walk in or along streams so that high water will erase your footprints. Following these practices will prevent erosion and soil damage. When possible, choose an existing campsite with no vegetation or organic soil. Sandy or slickrock benches make the best sites. All campsites should be at least 100 feet, preferably 200 feet, from water sources to prevent contamination. Fires leave unsightly soot marks and damage soil organisms. Cutting wood harms trees and is often prohibited. Gathering dead and down wood upsets the delicate balance of an area. Desert plants and wildlife depend on this dead wood for homes and sustenance. Bring along a small camp stove and use it. Do not make “improvements” such as trenches or rock structures and avoid trampling vegetation around the perimeter which prevents the campsite from becoming enlarged and barren. When leaving your camp, rehabilitate the area by scattering dead leaves or twigs around. Make sure nothing has been left behind.
The dry desert climate often preserves waste before decomposition is complete, so extra attention is required. For human waste, dig a “cat hole” six to eight inches deep and at least 100 feet from water sources. Carry out the toilet paper in a plastic bag. All washing should also be done at least 100 feet from water sources. Use only biodegradable soaps and pour wash water on the ground away from springs and streams.
Dogs threaten wildlife and may prevent hikers from seeing any animals. They also foul campsites, trails and streams, so their excrement must be disposed of in the same manner as human waste. Additionally, they may get into trouble in this rugged country. For their own safety, to prevent intrusions on others and for your convenience, pets are best left at home. If you do bring a pet, they must be kept on a leash within Glen Canyon NRA. Saddle and pack stock are welcome, however processed feed must be carried to prevent spread of noxious weeds. Picket stock away from campsites and water sources and in a manner to prevent pawing of roots or stripping bark. Animals may damage trees if tied to them.
Do not boat below the cable downstream from the launch ramp. There are dangerous rapids below the cable. Downstream waters are restricted. A permit is required from Grand Canyon National Park to float this section of the river.
If you can boat it in, you can just as easily boat it out. There is no regular garbage collection upriver. Plastic litter bags are available, free of charge, at the Ranger Station. Leaving even small scraps of garbage behind encourages flies, ants, and rodents to invade an area and make camping less pleasurable. Do not bury trash. It will be uncovered either by high water flows or by animals. Dumpsters are available at the launch ramps for garbage disposal. If you have a boat with a marine sanitation device on board, use it–and make sure everyone else in the group uses it too. If you don’t have on-board toilet facilities, carry and use portable toilets. Note: Anyone camping in the recreation area within one-quarter mile (.5 km) of Lake Powell is required to carry and use a portable toilet unless their boats or campers are self-contained or unless toilet facilities are available within 200 yards (188m) of where they’re camping. Dispose of holding tank and portable toilet wastes properly–at boat pump-out and dump stations at all marinas.
Leave all artifacts where you find them. Collecting pieces of pottery, arrowheads or any other item is against the law which is strictly enforced. Heavy penalties may be imposed. Vandalism destroys sites for scientific investigation and the enjoyment of others. Avoid camping in archeological sites. It’s easy to destroy walls and artifacts in the dark. Charcoal from modern fires may also contaminate archaeological evidence making it impossible to date ancient campfire remains. If you encounter archaeological or historical sites, please treat these irreplaceable resources with care. Do not camp in or near these sites nor climb on them. Even “open” cultural sites are very old and fragile. Walls erode easily. Edges of kivas are brittle and may break under your feet. Walk carefully and avoid treading on walls, storage rooms, buildings, and kiva edges. Resist touching petroglyphs or pictographs. Oils from skin damage pictographs (rock paintings) and petroglyphs (rock carvings). Avoid picnicking in archeological sites, since crumbs attract rodents who may nest within the site. Make sure that you pick up and carry out all of your trash and garbage. Human waste left at archeological sites is unsightly and unsanitary. Utilize restrooms before you visit. Remember that your descendants will also surely want to learn from and enjoy these places. Contact a ranger or other law enforcement official if you find archeological sites defaced or if you witness someone removing artifacts. Call 1-800-227-7286 to report an incident. Also, do not disturb plants or animals, and do not feed wildlife. Help keep Glen Canyon wild and scenic.
The following Colorado River fishing regulations apply. Fishing is allowed with artificial lures and flies only. Fishing with all live, natural, or food bait is prohibited. The total possession limit is 2 trout per angler. Juveniles under 14 years of age may have only 1 trout in possession, unless they have a valid fishing license. Only 1 trout in possession may be over 22 inches in length. No trout between 16 and 22 inches in length may be possessed. If caught, these trout must be returned to the water alive and unharmed. Possession of live trout is prohibited. A valid Arizona state Resident fishing license and applicable Trout Stamp or Non-resident fishing license is required. Regulations are in effect on the Colorado River from the Marble Canyon (Navajo Bridge) upstream to Glen Canyon Dam and include all waters in and around Lees Ferry.
Bicycles are vehicles and can do much damage to fragile desert soils and vegetation. Help protect this special place by not riding cross-country, across slickrock, or on foot trails or closed roads. Stay on designated roads at all times. There are no areas where you may ride a bike along or from the shoreline of Lake Powell. Carrying bicycles on boats is not recommended. Overnight camping along roads within Glen Canyon National Recreation Area is permitted. You may also hike away from roads to camp without your bike. Carry a lock to secure your bike on the road. Riding or pushing your bike off road is not allowed. Remember always to carry all of your trash back out with you. Carry plenty of water – a minimum of 1 gallon (4 liters) per person per day. You should also have a repair kit, extra tire tube and pump, and a first aid kit. Be prepared for temperature extremes and sudden storms. Carry raingear and polypropylene or wool for strong winds. In summer, ride early or late in the day to avoid the intense midday heat. Always wear a helmet and gloves for safety. Terrain here can be extremely rugged. Watch out for other cyclists and vehicles. Use extreme caution on steep descents. Frequent snacking on easily digested, high-energy foods is much better than eating two or three large meals a day. Some good choices might be fruit, breads, granola bars, fruit and nut mixtures, and similar items.
Persons traveling the Hole-in-the-Rock Road should carry plenty of water (at least one gallon–4 liters–per person per day) and be equipped to get themselves out of any difficulty they might encounter. This road is not routinely patrolled by any agency. Temperatures can range over 100° F (38°C) in summer to near 0° F (-17°C) in winter. Sudden heavy rains, especially in summer months may make this road impassable. If you are caught near the end of the road during a heavy storm, you may not be able to make it back to the paved highway, even with a four-wheel drive. Check with the Interagency Visitor Center in Escalante for latest road conditions and travel information.