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Spending The Fourth in D.C.?

July 1st, 2009 No comments
Fireworks at The Capitol 2008.

Fireworks at The Capitol 2008.

Washington DC is a spectacular place to celebrate July 4th! The National Mall, with Washington DC’s monuments and the U. S. Capitol in the background, forms a beautiful and patriotic backdrop to America’s Independence Day celebrations. This is an all-day event in the nation’s capital, beginning with a parade along Constitution Avenue and ending with a spectacular display of fireworks over the Washington Monument. Following is a guide to all of the 4th of July events on the National Mall.

The 4th of July celebrations in Washington, DC are among the most attended events of the year and many people arrive early to stake out a seat on the lawn. There are plenty of activities scheduled throughout the day to keep the whole family busy.

 

 

Story reprinted from About.com

Getting to the National Mall

The best way to get to the National Mall is to take the Metro. Stations nearby include Metro Center, Gallery Place-Chinatown, Judiciary Square, Federal Triangle and L’Enfant Plaza.The Smithsonian Metro station will be closed on the Fourth.

Public access to the National Mall begins at 10:00 a.m., with all visitors required to enter via a security checkpoint. Read more about getting to the National Mall, public transportation, parking, security and road closures.

Washington, DC’s Independence Day Parade
Parade Start Time: 11:45 a.m.
Parade Route: Constitution Avenue and 7th to 17th Sts.
See a map of the parade route

Washington, DC’s 4th of July Parade features marching bands, military and specialty units, floats, and VIP’s. The parade draws a large crowd, so plan to arrive early to stake out a good viewing spot. Read more about the National Independence Day Parade

Smithsonian Folklife Festival
The annual event includes daily and evening music and dance performances, crafts and cooking demonstrations, storytelling and discussions of cultural issues. The themes of the 2009 program will be: Giving Voice: The Power of Words (African American Culture), The Americas and Wales. The hours on the 4th of July are 11 a.m to 5 p.m. Read more about the Smithsonian Folklife Festival.

4th of July at the National Archives
The National Archives celebrates the 4th of July with special family programming celebrating the signing of the Declaration of Independence. Visit the National Archives Building for this special birthday party from 10:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. See the schedule of events.

White House Visitor Center Family Events
Between 9:00 a.m. and 3:00 p.m., stop at the White House Visitor Center and enjoy games, crafts and other activities celebrating America’s Birthday. National Park Service rangers and volunteers will give you the opportunity to sample the sights, sounds, activities and personages that helped finalize the Declaration of Independence and create the United States of America on July 4, 1776.

Concert on the Washington Monument Grounds
Beginning at 6:00 p.m. the U.S. Army Concert Band and the U.S. Army Band Downrange plays on the Southwest corner of the grounds of the Washington Monument.

A Capitol Fourth Concert
Time: 8 – 9:30 p.m. (Admittance begins at 3 p.m.)
Location: West Lawn of the U. S. Capitol

A 4th of July tradition in the nation’s capital includes a live concert by the National Symphony Orchestra and several pop artists performing patriotic music on the West Lawn of the U.S. Capitol Building. The concert and show is followed by a spectacular display of fireworks over the Washington Monument. The concert is free and open to the public. No tickets are necessary. The annual event is broadcast live on PBS with a repeat airing at 9:30-11:00 p.m. The concert will also be broadcast over National Public Radio on WAMU – 88.5 FM. See photos of A Capitol Fourth and performers for the 2009 concert.

4th of July Fireworks on the National Mall
Fireworks Time: At dark, usually around 9:15 p.m. Rain Date: July 5th
Launch Location: The fireworks are launched from the Lincoln Memorial Reflecting Pool and light up the sky over the Washington Monument. See Photos of the Fireworks

Best Places to View the National Mall Fireworks

Spectacular views of the fireworks can also be seen from the Marine Corps War Memorial (Iwo Jima) in Arlington, Virginia near the Rosslyn Metro station and areas along the Virginia side of the Potomac River that can be reached from George Washington Memorial Parkway. You may park at the Gravely Point parking lot, which is about a quarter mile from the 14th Street Bridge.

If you’d prefer to avoid the crowds of the city, there are plenty of alternative places to watch fireworks. See suggestions on pages 2 and 3.

For Fireworks in Maryland, See Page 2
For Fireworks in Virginia, See Page 3

See also, 4th of July Parades in Washington, DC, Maryland and Northern Virginia

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July 1, On This Day 1863: Battle of Gettysburg Begins

July 1st, 2009 No comments

Gen. Robert E. Lee
Gen. Robert E. Lee

July 01, 2009 12:10 AM

On July 1, 1863, Gen. Robert E. Lee led Confederate troops into the battle of Gettysburg, the bloodiest battle of the Civil War. The three-day conflict left approximately 5,500 dead.

 

by “findingDulcinea” Staff
at findingDulcinea.com
A Turning Point in the Civil War
The Battle of Gettysburg, fought in and around the town of Gettysburg, Pa., on July 1–3, 1863, was a turning point in the war. Southern forces arrived in Gettysburg in high spirits. They took the lead on the first day of fighting, but the North retreated to stronger positions. The South suffered heavy losses during the second day, which was the bloodiest of the battle, according to the Gettysburg National Military Park Virtual Tour.

Lee’s final effort came on July 3, when he ordered an ill-fated attack on the seemingly weak center of Union forces on Cemetery Ridge. His nearly 12,000-man assault, known as “Pickett’s Charge,” resulted in the death, injury or capture of about 5,500 soldiers from both armies, the Gettysburg National Military Park Virtual Tour reports, and marked the end of the South’s northern advance. 

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Crater Lake National Park page 2

July 1st, 2009 No comments
This is page 2 of a 2 page post.

 

The nation’s fifth oldest national park serves to stand as a memorial to time and receives half a million visitors per year. In 1902, Congress decided that Crater Lake and its surrounding 180,000 acres were to be “dedicated and set apart forever as a public park or pleasure ground for the benefit and enjoyment of the people of the United States.” The passing of this legislative act had been a 17 year effort, championed by Crater Lake’s primary promoter, William G. Steel. William Gladstone Steel devoted his life and fortune to the establishment and management of Crater Lake National Park. The act (16 USC 121) also required that measures be taken for the “preservation of the natural objects….the protection of the timber….the preservation of all kinds of game and fish,” and as well as for use by “scientists, excursionists, and pleasure seekers.”

The park is always open, but many of the roads and facilities are closed during the winter. Rim Village Visitor Center is open from June through September 9:30 AM-5:00 PM. This visitor center is located on the south rim of the caldera, approximately 200 yards west of the Crater Lake Lodge. Exhibits on geology and lake research are located in the nearby Sinnott Memorial Overlook, open July through September. Steel Visitor Center located at park headquarters is open all year; November to April from 10:00 AM-4:00 PM and May to October from 9:00 AM-5:00 PM, except for Christmas day. A park ranger is on duty to assist you with information, weather forecasts, backcountry camping permits, ski route advisories, and safety tips. A 20 minute film, The Crater Lake Story, describes the formation of Crater Lake through a story passed down by Native Americans of this area. It is shown throughout the day in the auditorium. Books, maps, posters, postcards, and educational materials are available for purchase here from the Crater Lake Natural History Association. The Steel Center has public restrooms and is fully accessible. A post office is also located in this building. Sinnott Memorial Overlook and Crater Lake Lodge have interpretive displays and exhibits which are open to the public in the summer.

Local Native Americans witnessed the collapse of Mount Mazama and kept the event alive in their legends. One ancient legend of the Klamath people closely parallels the geologic story which emerges from today’s scientific research. The legend tells of two Chiefs, Llao of the Below World and Skell of the Above World, pitted in a battle which ended up in the destruction of Llao’s home, Mt. Mazama. The battle was witnessed in the eruption of Mt. Mazama and the creation of Crater Lake. The Klamaths revered the lake and the surrounding area, keeping it undiscovered by white explorers until 1853. Archaeologists have found sandals and other artifacts buried under layers of ash, dust, and pumice from this eruption approximately 7,700 years ago. To date, there is little evidence indicating that Mount Mazama was a permanent home to people. However, it was used as a temporary camping site.

Accounts of the eruption can be found in stories told by the Klamath Indians, who are the descendants of the Makalak people. The Makalaks lived in an area southeast of the present park. Because information was passed down orally, there are many different versions. The Umpqua people have a similar story, featuring different spirits. Early settlers and explorers did not hear about Crater Lake from the native inhabitants because this place is sacred to most Native Americans of Oregon and northern California. Makalaks (now Klamath Indians) held the belief that this place was so holy that looking upon it would lead to death. There are no stories relating to the crystal blue lake that formed after the eruption, indicating that these people became silent on the issue of Mount Mazama, the mountain that was no longer. Even today, some Native Americans choose not to view Crater Lake. Its beauty and mystery form a religious context.

On June 12, 1853, three gold prospectors, John Wesley Hillman, Henry Klippel, and Isaac Skeeters, came upon a long, sloping mountain. Upon reaching its highest point, a huge, awe-inspiring lake was visible. “This is the bluest lake we’ve ever seen,” they reported, and named it Deep Blue Lake. But gold was more on the minds of settlers at the time and the discovery was soon forgotten.

In the 1850s, hostilities between settlers and Native Americans developed in the area. In response, the U.S. Army established Fort Klamath seven miles southeast of the present park boundary in 1863. This led to the construction of a wagon road from Prospect in the Rogue River Valley to the newly established Fort Klamath. On August 1, 1865, the lake was “rediscovered” by two hunters attached to the road crews. Several soldiers and civilians journeyed to see the now-legendary lake. One of the participants, Sergeant Orsen Stearns, was so awestruck by what he saw that he climbed down into the caldera and became the first non-Native American to reach the shore of Crater Lake. Captain F.B. Sprague soon joined him and suggested the name “Lake Majesty.”
In July 1869, newspaper editor Jim Sutton and several others decided to visit Lake Majesty and explore it by boat. By August, a canvas boat had been constructed and lowered onto the lake. Five people reached Wizard Island and spent several hours exploring the cinder cone. Sutton wrote an article describing the trip for his Jacksonville newspaper. Instead of Lake Majesty, Sutton substituted the name “Crater Lake.”

In 1886, Captain Clarence Dutton was the next man to make a discovery at Crater Lake. Dutton commanded a U.S. Geological Survey party which carried the Cleetwood, a half-ton survey boat, up the steep slopes of the mountain then lowered it to the lake. From the stern of the Cleetwood, a piece of pipe on the end of a spool of piano wire sounded the depth of the lake at 168 different points. Dutton’s soundings of 1,996 feet were amazingly close to the sonar readings made in 1959 that established the lake’s deepest point at 1,932 feet.

The National Park Service began recording weather information at Park headquarters in 1926. The winter of 1932-1933 still holds the record for total snowfall in a single season, with 879 inches (2,230 cm). In 1950, Crater Lake set a state record for snowfall in a single calendar year, with 903 inches (2,294 cm). The most snow ever recorded on the ground at Park Headquarters was 21 feet (6.4 meters), on April 3, 1983.

Why does Crater Lake get so much snow? The major weather patterns at Crater Lake National Park originate in the Pacific Ocean. Storm events originate in the north Pacific and build in strength and moisture content over the ocean. Wind patterns at these northerly latitudes move storms from the ocean to the Pacific Northwest. Over 100 inches (250 cm) of rain falls each year on the Oregon Coast. After crossing the Coast Range, storm clouds descend into the Rogue and Willamette Valleys, dropping about 30 inches (76 cm) of rain. As storms move eastward, the high mountains of the Cascade Range push the cool, moist air to elevations over 10,000 feet (3,000 meters) in many places. As the air rises, it cools further. Water vapor in the air condenses to form clouds, and snow crystals form within them. If there is enough moisture in the clouds, the snow begins to fall. If the temperature is warm enough, the snow melts before it reaches the ground and falls as rain. Crater Lake, like all of the Cascade Range, is shaped by its winter snowfall. Without the snow, there would be no phlox, no streams, and ultimately, no Crater Lake.

The color of Crater Lake is the product of its great depth, the purity and clarity of its water, and the way solar radiation interacts with water. Water molecules absorb the longer wavelengths of light better (reds, oranges, yellows, and greens). This energy slowly heats the lake throughout the summer. Shorter wavelengths (blues) are more easily scattered than absorbed. In the deep lake, some of the scattered blue light is redirected back up to the surface where we can see it. Around the edges where the water is less deep, some of the unabsorbed green sunlight is reflected back up. The color of the lake can vary from day to day depending on wind, cloud cover, and the angle of the sun. Sunlight is able to penetrate the waters of Crater Lake to great depths. Readings deeper than 100 feet (30 meters) for most lakes are rare, but they can typically reach 120 feet (37 meters) at Crater Lake. The water is so pure because most of the annual input comes directly from precipitation. No stream or creek flows into the lake carrying dissolved minerals or dust. Seepage removes minerals already dissolved in the lake while volcanic rocks below the water line are relatively insoluble in cold lake water.

If you visit the park during spring, you will find Rim Drive still closed. It closes each year in mid-October due to the heavy winter snows. “Spring Opening”, or the clearing of snow from Rim Drive around the lake before summer, usually begins in mid-April. During the first phase of this operation, the park road crews clear 15 miles of roadway along the west side of Crater Lake reaching the park’s north entrance by mid-June. The second phase completes the opening of Rim Drive all around Crater Lake by early July. If left to melt out naturally, many sections of Rim Drive might remain closed until the end of July or early August!

The work involves several hazards for park staff. In most places the road is covered by more than 20 feet of snow and drifts as high as 60 feet must be cleared from the road behind Watchman Peak. Rim Drive is located aside sheer cliffs that drop off hundreds of feet. Snow completely obscures the roadway, and the edges of the cliffs are not always evident. Obstacles such as large trees and boulders fall on the road during winter and are hidden with the snow drifts. Sensors are used to pinpoint a wire buried in the center of the road in areas where the route is not apparent under the snow. Large bull-dozers called Cats push snow away from the route until the road has only about 5 feet of snow above it. When the Cats are through, large snow blowers remove the remaining snow down to the road surface. Clearing 1/4 mile of Rim Drive per day is considered a fast rate. Only a few hundred feet of roadway are cleared on many days. Major winter storms with high winds and heavy snows continue to strike the park through May, often delaying road clearing progress for several days. It is the parks’ desire to make the park roads accessible to visitors for the longest season possible, but they are limited to the park’s severe winters and the hazards of clearing snow from Rim Drive. It is an operation that can’t be rushed and jeopardize the safety of park staff.

The 33-mile Rim Drive encircles Crater Lake, with each mile giving a very different perspective of the lake, rim, and surrounding terrain. Open only during the summer from late June to mid-October, there are numerous overlooks, many with interpretive signs. The only access to the lake itself is via a steep trail to Cleetwood Cove, where boat tours of the lake are offered. Numerous picnic areas can be found along the Rim Drive, as well as hiking access to Garfield Peak (from Rim Village), Lightning Springs (west side), Cleetwood Cove (north side), Mount Scott (east side), Sun Notch Viewpoint and Crater Peak (south side). Both Kerr Notch and Sun Notch Viewpoints are particularly spectacular viewpoints, with views down to Phantom Rock and across the lake to Wizard Island. To protect the fragile meadows, please stay on the established trails!
If you approach Munson Valley from the north (accessible only from late June to October), the easterly portion of the Rim Drive is a left-hand turn just past the Steel Information Center. Continuing straight ahead (south) takes you to Mazama and the Annie Spring Entrance Station. If you approach Munson Valley from the south, you encounter the junction with the Rim Drive. Proceeding north-west, you begin the clock-wise portion of the Rim Drive, and access to the Rim Village.

Turning east takes you around Crater Lake in a counter-clockwise direction and is the quickest route to The Pinnacles section of the park. A short distance (east) of this road junction on the Rim Drive is the delightful Castle Crest Wildflower Trail. While this is a short .4-mile loop hiking trail, the tread is uneven and is not suitable for wheelchairs. When flowers are in bloom the profusion of colors is spectacular. The trail passes from forest, to wet meadows, crosses a tributary of Munson Creek, and finally passes a small dry slope exposing the visitor to a wide assortment of Northwest wildflowers.

The Pinnacles can be reached in the summer from the Rim Drive on a paved, 6-mile road. These eerie spires of eroded ash rise from the edges of Sand and Wheeler Creeks in pinnacle-fashion. Once upon a time, the road continued east of the turn-out, to the former East Entrance of the park. A path now replaces the old road and follows the rim of Sand Creek (and more views of pinnacles) to where the entrance arch still stands.

The views of Crater Lake from the Rim are certainly the highlight of Rim Village. A path follows along the Rim from Discovery Point to Crater Lake Lodge (2.6 miles round-trip). An extension of this hiking trail proceeds from Crater Lake Lodge to the top of Garfield Peak (3.4 miles round-trip). Walking a portion of any of these trails affords the visitor views of Wizard Island, The Watchman, Hillman Peak, Mt. Thielsen (located outside of the park to the north), Cleetwood Cove (located at the base of the North Rim, nearly 6 miles distance), Mt. Scott, and Garfield Peak. A short walk to Sinnott Memorial, with a small museum and ranger-talks during the summer, gives a spectacular view 900 feet down to the lake’s surface.

Crater Lake National Park contains more than 90 miles of hiking trails. Many of these trails may easily be hiked in a single day. The steep terrain around Crater Lake makes hiking times difficult to assess. Sun Notch Viewpoint, Godfrey Glen, Castle Crest Wildflower Garden and Park Headquarters Historic Trail are all short hikes, one mile or less. Watchman Overlook, Cleetwood Cove, Annie Creek Canyon and Discovery Point are all less than 1.7 miles. Garfield Peak, Mt. Scott, Crater Peak and Wizard Island Summit are longer hikes that range from .9 miles to 3.2 miles and are more strenuous.

The Pacific Crest Trail stretches from the Mexican to Canadian borders along the mountainous crest of the Cascades and Sierra Nevada and has long been a multi-day backpacking trip adventure for many. Thirty-three miles pass through Crater Lake National Park, offering through-hikers magnificent views of the lake. In 1946, Crater Lake was the finishing point on the Oregon Skyline trail. Today this 400 mile stretch from Mount Hood to Crater Lake is the oldest section of the Pacific Crest Trail. The idea for a trail on the west coast was first proposed in the 1920s, but it was not until 1972 that all 2,638 miles of the trail were completed and hiked for the first time.

Crater Lake is one of seven National Parks through which the Pacific Crest Trail passes. Hikers who wish to stay overnight in Crater Lake National Park must get a backcountry permit. Permits may be obtained at the Rim Visitor Center in Rim Village, or at the Steel Information Center in the Park Headquarters area. Alternatively, PCT through-hikers may sign the trail register as they enter Crater Lake National Park. In June 1995, an alternate trail opened which brings hikers right up to the rim of Crater Lake. Coming from the south, the trail ascends the Dutton Creek trail to the rim, and then follows the edge of the caldera for six miles with spectacular views. It then parallels the road from North Junction to Grouse Hill and rejoins the PCT. Short sections of the PCT may be completed within the park as day hikes. None are loop trails, so hikers must backtrack to their vehicles. A long day hike is possible, but to do this, hikers need to have two vehicles. The PCT crosses Highway 62 south and west of the Annie Springs Entrance. It crosses the North Entrance Road in the Pumice Desert area. This day hiking covers 18 miles.

Each year, increasing numbers of cyclists come to the park to ride around the lake on the 33-mile Rim Drive. The route is physically demanding. Steep hills at high elevation may encourage even the most physically fit riders to pause at many of the road’s thirty overlooks and pullouts. The payoff, however, is spectacular scenery, seen at a pace that few visitors choose to take enough time for. All routes into the park have long, steep grades. Most cyclists start from the Park Headquarters area and ride around the lake clockwise. This direction puts one of the steepest and longest grades at the beginning of the trip. Because road conditions are unfavorable to cyclists most of the year, and because many roads are closed during the long winter, it is recommend you plan trips only for the summer months of July, August, and September.

All waters within the park are open to fishing unless otherwise indicated. The lake can be fished year-round except when seasonal limitations prevent safe access. The only access to the lake is by the Cleetwood Trail located on the north side of Crater Lake. No fishing license is required within the park. Fishing is allowed in the park from 1/2 hour before sunrise to 1/2 hour after sunset generally May 20 through Oct 31. All waters are restricted to use of artificial lures and flies only. No organic bait of any kind can be used in Crater Lake National Park. This includes live or dead fish, power bait, and fish eggs or roe. There are no restrictions relative to size, number, or species taken. Cleetwood Cove provides about 1/4 mile of rocky shoreline for angling. Wizard Island is also open while boat tours are running. Fishing is allowed from park boat docks except when a boat is within 200 feet of the dock. Private boats or flotation devices are not allowed on Crater Lake. You’ll have to pack out your catch as cleaning fish in the lake is prohibited. Kokanee salmon which average eight inches and Rainbow trout which can average 10-14 inches are the only two types of fish that remain in the lake after extensive stocking years ago. The park streams have four species of fish, Eastern brook trout, rainbow trout, German brown trout and bull trout. The bull trout is considered the only native fish and listed on the endangered species list.

The Park has no stock trails which provide views of Crater Lake itself. However, the park’s backcountry has many miles of trails suitable for stock use which explore diverse lower elevation forests, including the full length of the Pacific Crest Trail within the park (but not the alternate trail along the caldera rim). For use within the park, stock animals are defined as horses, mules, burros and llamas.

Scuba diving is also a popular sport at Crater Lake. Access to the lake for diving is only by hiking the Cleetwood Trail, located on the north side of Crater Lake. The Cleetwood Trail is 1.1 miles in length and descends 700 feet to the lake surface. You must be able to carry all your equipment up and down the trail. Wheeled vehicles are prohibited. Restrooms are available at the top and bottom of the Cleetwood Trail but there are no food or drinking water facilities. You may dive from the Cleetwood Cove dock near the lake level gauge. You may also dive from Wizard Island; however, the island is only accessible by taking one of the concession-operated boat tours. A ranger-naturalist narrates the tour, so plan on arriving to Wizard Island about forty minutes after departing from the Cleetwood Cove dock. Prior arrangements must be made with the concessionaire, as space on the tour boats is limited. After your dive, you may return to Cleetwood Cove by catching a later boat tour, on a space-available basis. No one is allowed to stay on Wizard Island overnight. There is no drinking water or other facilities on Wizard Island. If lightning threatens, boat tours may be cancelled.

Surface temperatures in Crater Lake vary from 32° to 65°F. The average summer temperature is 50° to 58°F. Below 260 feet, the temperature is a constant 38°F. Once under the surface, you will find Crater Lake varied in appearance. As in any natural body of water, you may encounter sediments, algae, and suspended materials. Phytoplankton and zooplankton live in the lake, along with two species of fish (kokanee salmon and rainbow trout), which were introduced in the late 1800s. Moss grows along the caldera walls to depths of more than 400 feet.
During the winter, trails and unplowed roads provide cross country skiing and snowshoeing, with access to open slopes, dense forests, and breathtaking views, making Crater Lake ideal for both day-trippers and backcountry visitors. Since 93% of the park is managed as federal wilderness under the provisions of the Wilderness Act, opportunities for solitude abound. The Rim Drive around Crater Lake is closed and unplowed during the winter, creating a popular ski route from about November to April. The trip is thirty miles long and typically requires three or four days, longer on snowshoes. Although a trip in either direction is possible, most people start at Rim Village and proceed clockwise around the lake to Park Headquarters, with a net loss of 700 feet of elevation. For groups with only one car, the Raven Trail offers a connection between Park Headquarters and Rim Village.

There are several ski trails available during the winter. Some may be used for snow shoeing as well. West Rim Road is 6.1 miles and ends up at North Junction. This is an easy cross-country skiing route that has good views of the lake, but is often windy and icy. Hemlock Loop is a little more difficult with rolling hills, but more sheltered and only 2 miles. Raven Trail is east of the lodge and is in an open bowl leading into woods. It is considered difficult as it is not easy to follow. Dutton Creek / PCT / Annie Springs Trail is 4.5 miles long with a 1000 foot vertical drop near the beginning which rates it difficult, but an outdoor adventure! Lightning Springs branches off West Rim Road two miles from Rim Village and is 9.6 miles in length with a 1300 foot vertical drop. East Rim Road is rated moderate. It follows an unplowed roadway 3 miles to Vidae Falls, 4.5 miles to Sun Notch, and than 9 miles to Kerr Notch. There is no view of lake until Sun Notch. Crater Peak Trail ranges in difficulty from moderate to difficult. It has a 600 foot climb to the peak from East Rim Road with the last 0.7 miles being very steep through trees. Greyback Trail is used very little. It is 4.8 miles one way with a 250 foot climb, followed by an 800 foot loss (west to east). Mazama Village is a good beginner ski trail with views of Annie Creek Canyon.

Snowmobile use is permitted at the park only on the North Entrance Road from the park boundary to North Junction, where the entrance road meets Rim Drive. Snowmobile use is limited to the unplowed roadway. The Diamond Lake area in the Umpqua National Forest offers many more trails and developed facilities for snowmobiles. The Diamond Lake Ranger District can be contacted Monday though Friday from 8:00 am to 4:30 pm at (541) 498-2531.

Like many of the park’s attractions, most forms of wildlife are seldom seen. In fact, one may think that the wildlife is restricted to the squirrels and birds that hover about. The animal population at Crater Lake is actually quite diverse. From summer seasonal visitors such as the black bear, elk, and bald eagle, to the year round residents like the pine marten, snowshoe hare, and Clark’s Nutcracker, the park serves as a sanctuary and home for these animals of the Crater Lake ecosystem. Other animals you might see are Northern Spotted Owl, American Peregrine Falcon, Gray Wolf, Columbian White-tailed Deer and wolverines. The black bear (Ursus americanus) is the largest carnivore inhabiting Crater Lake. The exact population of bear is unknown, but has been estimated at approximately 30 to 40 animals. Among the summer mammals, the elk is one of the largest yet least viewed. A herd of about 150 bases itself near Union Peak and grazes in the meadows on the south side of the park. Elk are most common in open areas near timber stands, where they graze on grasses and shrubs. They stand up to five feet high at the shoulder and can weigh up to six hundred pounds. Despite their size, elk have an uncanny ability to move quietly and avoid detection. There are also plenty of birds for the bird watching lover in your family. Some that you’re likely to see or hear are grebes, ducks, hawks, grouse, American kestrels, spotted sandpipers, doves, Goatsuckers, and hummingbirds.

One of the year round residents, the pine marten, becomes especially active in the winter. The hunt for food keeps them on the move and their lack of natural predators allows them to be especially brave. The pine marten is a close relative of the short-tailed weasel, and is distinguishable from its cousin as the marten keeps its brown coat throughout the year. This is due in part to the lack of predators the pine marten has during the cold, snowy months. Pine martens have adapted themselves especially well to survive this time. Their small bodies and large feet allow them to bound over the snow very effectively in their hunt for food, most notably mice and other small rodents.

Understanding and caring for the ancient forests at Crater Lake National Park has always been an important part of park management. Although its tree species are at relatively high elevations (4400 to 8900 feet), the park’s forests were of enough interest to men like John Muir, Gifford Pinchot, and John Wesley Powell that they assisted William Gladstone Steel with his efforts to establish a national park in 1902. Subsequent extensions to the park in 1932 and 1980 were made with the intention of protecting representative samples of the region’s ancient forests.

There are four major forest zones at the park, each named after its dominant tree species. Starting in the park’s lower elevations (about 4500 ft), a ponderosa pine forest is the first zone greeting visitors who enter on Highway 62 from the south or west entrances. The ponderosa zone gives way to a dense lodgepole pine forest at about 5000 ft. Sometimes referred to as dog’s hair forest because of the dense, scraggly stands of thin lodgepoles, this zone sometimes covers vast areas. Mountain hemlocks become dominant at about 6000 feet. This zone has the final tall trees in the park and has limited underbrush. The next zone is almost purely whitebark pines and extends from about 7500 ft to the top of Mt. Scott, the highest point in the park (8,929 ft). The whitebark pine zone is more an open woodland than a forest.

Management of Crater Lake’s ancient forests ranges from proper fire control to ecological studies, such as surveys for ancient forest dependent species like the northern spotted owl. A critical difference between the National Park Service and the Forest Service is the “use” of these forests. The Forest Service, under the Department of Agriculture, manages its lands as “multiple-use” lands. The USFS strives to maintain a balance between commercial harvesting, stock grazing, mineral extraction, and recreation. The National Park Service has a different mandate. The NPS seeks to preserve the systems that have shaped the land. National Park lands are preserved for human enjoyment, enrichment, and understanding. These ancient forests are an integral part of Crater Lake National Park.

Weather plays a dramatic role. Winter, especially, shapes the landscape; snow generally begins to accumulate each year in October and doesn’t melt in most places until the following June. Summer weather is more predictable, with warm, dry days, blue skies, and cool nights. Nevertheless, there may be days even in August when the lake is completely obscured by clouds and fog. Visitors to Crater Lake National Park should be prepared for any kind of weather, any time of the year. For current road and weather conditions updated at 8am daily, call (541) 594-2211.

The weather in May and June can vary from warm and sunny to snowy and foggy with poor lake visibility. Temperatures may be as high as 65°F (18°C) or as low as freezing. July, August, and September are the best months for dry, warmer weather. A typical daytime high temperature during these three months is around 67°F (19°C), but can range from 40°F to 80°F or more (4°C to 27°C). Temperatures cool off rapidly in the evening, with a typical nighttime low around 40°F (4°C), while some nights dip below freezing. Summer thunderstorms occur from June through mid-September, bringing dramatic displays of lightning and high winds. Boat tours, guided walks, and evening programs may be canceled if lightning is present in the park.

October usually presents cool but sunny days and brings the start of winter snowfall by mid-month. From October to June, the park is a snow-covered wilderness. November through April is assuredly snowy with poor
visibility and fair to poor driving conditions. With snowfall still lingering on the ground in early July, winter defines Crater Lake more than any other season.

Typical winter temperatures range from a high of about 35°F (2°C) to an overnight low around 19°F (-7°C). Winter can also be a challenging time. Blizzards, snow avalanches, and steep, icy slopes are just some of the hazards to be prepared for during the winter months. Make safety your first consideration.

Crater Lake National Park is a special place and a federally protected area. To help preserve park resources and to protect yourself, please observe the following rules on park trails: hiking, skiing, snow shoeing, or climbing inside the caldera is prohibited. Conditions within the caldera are extremely dangerous. You are responsible for your own safety. The Cleetwood Trail is the only safe and legal access to the lake’s shore. Pets, firearms, bicycles, and motorized vehicles are not permitted in the backcountry. Pets are permitted on leash in developed areas only. Dogs and other pets are not allowed on park trails. Pets often threaten small wildlife. Even well-behaved domestic pets leave scents that disturb the local wildlife. The park has also had many incidents of lost or injured pets who escape from their owner’s control. Smoking is not allowed on any trail. Stay on trails to protect vegetation and fragile hillsides. Shortcutting trails, particularly on switchbacks, can damage slopes, making them more susceptible to erosion and visual damage. Leave all rocks, plants and artifacts undisturbed for the enjoyment of future hikers. There is no hunting or mushroom picking allowed in the park.

The “leave no trace” philosophy is a critical concept to backcountry travel. More than 90% of Crater Lake National Park has been proposed as federal wilderness.
Choose bathroom break locations wisely. Improper sanitation can contaminate streams and lakes. Make your toilet well away from camp and at least 100 feet away from any standing or running water. Dig a shallow trench and cover after use. Pack out all toilet paper. Dispose of waste or wash water at least 100 feet away from any water source. Pack out all garbage.

Be prepared! Equip yourself with water, food, warm clothing, rain gear, and anything else appropriate to the trail you take. It is better to be over-prepared than under-prepared. Do not drink water from park streams or from the lake without properly treating it. Giardia, a water-borne parasite can be present even if the water appears clear and clean. Water is scarce in Crater Lake’s backcountry. In a typical year, many sources are dry by late July or early August. Hikers should carry at least one gallon of water per person. Possible water sources include Red Cone Springs, Lightning Springs, and major branches of Dutton, Trapper, Bybee, North Copeland, and South Copeland Creeks.

A good backpacking checklist is: backpack, water, food, compass, topographical map, first aid kit, good hiking boots, rain gear, layered, warm clothing, hat, gloves, sunglasses, sunscreen, water filtering system if you are not taking enough water, matches, candle, multipurpose tool or knife, flashlight with extra bulb and batteries and signal mirror or whistle. It is also useful to carry a ground sheet or small tarp for possible unforeseen overnight stays on a trail. For overnight camping, you’ll want to add a tent with rainfly, sleeping bag and mat, possible campstove and fuel, repair kits, animal proof containers, garbage bags to pack out what you take in, collapsible water container, cooking pots and utensils.

Pack stock use is not permitted throughout the backcountry with the following exceptions: Bald Crater Loop Trail and Bert Creek Access Trail, Pacific Crest Trail, not including the alternate trail along the rim, Lightning Springs Trail, up to the hitching post below Rim Drive, and Stuart Falls Trail. You must bring feed for any pack stock and it must be pelletized feed. To protect the Crater Lake ecosystem, all other feed types are prohibited, including hay and seed type feeds. Grazing is prohibited. There is a special campsite located west of the Pacific Crest Trail on Bybee Creek with pack stock facilities. Carefully select resting areas for your stock. Tethering them to a small tree can damage the tree. Remember you need a fee backcountry permit for overnight stays.

Stock is not permitted on the new alternate trail along the caldera rim. Access to the rim for stock remains via the Lightning Springs trail. To reduce impact on the park’s natural resources, camp at one of the park’s designated camp sites: Grouse Hill, Red Cone, Lightning Springs or Dutton Creek. No camping is permitted on the alternate trail along the caldera rim. Camp sites are located at either end of the alternate trail at Dutton Creek and Grouse Hill.

No pets are permitted along the PCT. Although information distributed by the Pacific Crest Trail Conference may state that pets are allowed on all segments of the PCT, pets are not allowed on any section of the trail in Crater Lake, Mount Rainier, Lassen Volcanic, Yosemite, or Sequoia/Kings Canyon National Parks.

There are several essential tips for bicyclists. Bicycle helmets are required. Cyclists face many hazards, including high speeds on steep downhill runs; rocks, animals, and other road hazards; and heavy traffic. Only cyclists experienced at riding with auto traffic should consider biking at Crater Lake. Park roads seldom have shoulders. Cyclists should use extreme caution, particularly along narrow areas and blind curves. Wear bright, highly-visible clothing to help drivers see you. Bicycles are not permitted on park trails. All roads closed to automobiles are also closed to bicycles. For mountain biking, the Grayback Drive provides eight miles of unpaved, one-way road. Cyclists unaccustomed to high altitudes may find that the elevation makes for difficult breathing. Water is available only at Rim Village and Park Headquarters. Cyclists on long tours are welcome to stay at either of the park’s two campgrounds.

Fishing is prohibited in Sun Creek starting three miles upstream from the junction of Sun Creek and the park boundary, and extending three miles upstream, as posted. Sun Creek is protected habitat for endangered Bull Trout. State regulations are enforced for stream fishing in Crater Lake National Park.

Keep in mind that Crater Lake is accessible for divers only from about June 15 through September 15 of each year due to our extreme snow conditions. Earlier or later dives may be possible, but cannot be guaranteed due to the variability of our weather. All divers are required to obtain a diving permit in person upon arrival at the park. The permit is free of charge, and is available between the hours of 8:00 am and 4:30 pm daily. Permits are only issued from the Canfield Building (Ranger Station) in the Park Headquarters complex. A ranger will confirm your diving ability and give you specific information about diving in the lake. The lake level is at 6,173 feet in elevation, so high altitude dive tables should be used in planning your dive. Most divers use the 8,000 foot table.
Private boats and rafts are not allowed on the lake. Only interpretive boat tours and research vessels are permitted. Crater Lake is preserved as a scenic and scientific wonder, not as a recreational lake. Because the water is quite cold (temperatures below the surface are consistently in the upper 30’s), a good quality, 0.25-inch full wet suit or a dry suit is required. Diving is prohibited within 100 feet of the Cleetwood Cove dock and mooring facilities, and within 100 feet of the Wizard Island dock. No solo diving is permitted under any circumstances. A “diver down” flag is required. No collecting of rocks, plants, or other features is permitted. No spear fishing is permitted. The nearest full decompression chamber is more than 300 miles from the park. All divers must be certified NAUI, PADI, or similar-type divers and must bring proof of certification with them. Air refills are not available in the park. The closest facilities for this are dive shops in Klamath Falls, Medford, Phoenix, and Grants Pass.

Sno-Park permits are not required to visit Crater Lake during the winter. Sno-Park permits are required for skiing in the adjacent National Forests. Skiing or snowshoeing on any plowed road or parking area is forbidden. Please put on your skis or snowshoes only after leaving the roadway. No overnight lodging is available in the park during the winter months, and roadside camping is not permitted. Backcountry camping is allowed. All backcountry campers must register at a park Visitor Center for a free permit before camping. Campers must ski or snowshoe to their campsite. The following areas are closed to camping: within one mile of any plowed road, within one mile of Boundary Springs or Sphagnum Bog, within 100 feet of any water source, and within visibility of any other backcountry campers or ski trails. Entering the caldera is extremely dangerous and is strictly forbidden. Stay well back from the edge of any drop-off. Snow overhangs, called cornices, can fall away without warning. You are responsible for your own safety. The volunteer ski patrol operates only on weekends. Even during patrolled periods, not all trails and possible routes can be canvassed. No open fires are permitted during the winter season. This is to protect the exposed vegetation. During the summer, dead and downed wood may be used for campfires; during the winter, however, it is covered by deep snow. All trails in the park are ungroomed. The more popular ski trails are marked. Snowshoers should stay off of and out of ski tracks as a courtesy to skiers. Avalanches and icy conditions can create hazards at several points along the Rim Drive. Please familiarize yourself with avalanche safety precautions before your trip, and check on current avalanche conditions upon your arrival at Crater Lake. If you have questions about skiing or snowshoeing at Crater Lake, or if you would like to know the current weather forecast and trail conditions, call (541) 594-3100 between 10:00 am and 4:00 pm Pacific time.

Here are some snowmobiling regulations. Snowmobiles must stay on the unplowed roadway. Both headlight and taillight must be illuminated while the snowmobile is in operation. Operators must carry a valid state registration for each snowmobile. Maximum speed is 45 mph. Operators must possess a valid state license or proof of state certification by an authorized state snowmobile safety officer. Snowmobiles must be equipped with a muffler in good working order. Wheeled vehicles are prohibited. Also, remember that the winter weather can be unpredictable, so be prepared.

Currernt Weather

Feeding wild animals, including birds, is prohibited. Feeding animals is dangerous for you, bad for them, and harmful for the ecosystem. Animals that learn to depend on human handouts lose their instinctive abilities to find food for themselves. Even a single potato chip is bad for wild animals—potato chips do not naturally occur in their diet. Neither do cheese curls, candy, sandwiches, or even peanuts or raisins. Animals quickly come to recognize humans as a source of food, and may forget their natural food seeking skills. When winter comes, the easy food supply they’ve come to depend on disappears. They may now starve because they have lost their self-sufficiency. Please enjoy all wild animals from a distance.

While black bear are normally shy animals who avoid human contact, the presence and availability of human food often leads to conflict. Food-reward association with humans can result in the loss of fear of man and a more “sophisticated” and unnatural population of bear. As the animal becomes “habituated” to this food source and to the presence of humans, its behavior may become bolder, and more aggressive. Property damage and the potential for injury may result. The black bear is a very intelligent animal with an incredible ability toward learned behavior. For example, if successful in obtaining food from a cooler, the cooler (which next time may be empty) may become associated with food. If the cooler happens to be stored in plain view inside a vehicle, this is no obstacle for the bear. It may simply remove a window or a door to get to the cooler. Covering the cooler with a blanket or other item (while being stored inside a vehicle) may prevent this. Better yet, the cooler and food items should be secured in a trunk, and all garbage immediately deposited in a bear proof trash can or dumpster. A clean camp is extremely important.

If a bear has been successful in obtaining food, never attempt to take the food away from the bear! This may sound obvious, but it has happened and the result has been significant injury. If rangers witness such action or other improper bear behavior, they may employ aversive conditioning in an attempt to punish the bear, hoping to reverse its behavior. This action must only be taken by trained persons. Aversive conditioning must be used with discretion around bystanders. They should always be advised of the rationale behind the use of this technique. Other precautions are never step between a bear who is about to acquire food and the food source. And never place yourself between a sow and her cubs.

Black bear are generally easy to frighten away. To accomplish this, recommendations for visitor action include making loud noise (vocal, banging on pots and pans, etc.) and holding your ground to the approaching bear. Such action will usually result in a discouraged bear which moves on. A bear that has become habituated, however, may learn to bluff charge. A bluff charge is a discernable aggressive movement toward humans. This action is intended to move persons from an area, such as a picnic table or campsite where food is present. Once accomplished, the bear enjoys a free meal. This action should be considered serious, and may pose a threat to personal safety; holding your ground is no longer advised. In the event of a bluff charge, stay calm and back away, talking aloud but in soft tones. Avoid direct eye contact and don’t turn and run. If actually attacked by a black bear, some experts advise to fight back (unlike a grizzly attack, where the suggested action is to assume the fetal position and play dead). Other signs of possible aggressive bear behavior may include grunting, snorting, gnashing of teeth, swaying of the head, and lying back of the ears. “Problem bears” are a consequence of irresponsible human behavior. “A fed bear is a dead bear.” It is everyone’s responsibility to behave properly and responsibly in bear country. For more information see the Wildlife Precautions page.

Entrance fees are $10.00 for 7 days for automobiles and $5.00 for bicycles with a maximum fee of $10.00 per family.

Camping fees are required, but call the park for current fees.

Lost Creek Campground is open from early July to early October (weather permitting). Located 3 miles south of Rim Drive on the Pinnacles Road, it has 16 campsites for tents.

Mazama Campground is open from early June through early October and has 200 campsites. Reservations are not taken, however sites are usually available. Running water, flush toilets, picnic tables, and fire rings are provided. Please Note – Weather can impact the opening and closing dates of the campgrounds.

With 100 miles of hiking trails, Crater Lake National Park’s backcountry offers many opportunities for solitude and exploration. Backcountry use permits are required for all backcountry overnight stays. They are issued from park visitor centers during their regular hours of operation. Try to use one of the designated backcountry campsites. Staying at one of these sites lessens the number of impacted areas. Check with park staff for these locations. If you don’t use one of these areas, pick an already established campsite or area which is more resistant to human impact. Open campfires are allowed only if “dead and down” wood is used to fuel the fire. Wood can only be collected below an elevation of 6,800 feet. Use an existing fire ring. Maximum party size is limited to 8 people and/or 12 head of stock. At your campsite, hang all food in a pack or stuff sack, out of reach of wild animals (at least 10 feet above the ground) and well away from your cooking area, or use an animal proof container. Pack out all garbage and leave a clean camp. Camping and open campfires are prohibited in the following areas: within a mile of any paved road, nature trail, or developed area, within 100 feet of any water source, within 100 feet of any trail or other camping party except when using a designated campsite, between the Rim Drive and Crater Lake, on the Phantom Ship or Wizard Island, atop Mt. Scott and along the trail to the summit, atop Garfield Peak and along the trail to the summit, and in the vicinity of Sphagnum Bog.

Kimball State Park is 17 miles away. Winema National Forest is nearby with campgrounds available. The Rogue River National Forest is west of the park and also has campgrounds. Umpqua National Forest is 6 miles north of Crater Lake junction. Diamond Lake is 20 miles north of the north entrance of the park. Other attractions are Oregon Caves National Monument, Lava Beds National Monument, John Day Fossil Beds National Monument, Redwood National and State Parks, Lassen Volcanic National Park and Deschutes National Forest. There are also several nearby cities that offer attractions: Roseberg and Grants Pass to name but a few.

The closest airports are located in Klamath Falls (60 miles from the park) and Medford (80 miles from the park).

Driving in Oregon and coming from the north: from Roseburg, take route 138 east to the park’s north entrance, and from Bend, take Route 97 south to route 138 west to the park’s north entrance. From the south: from Medford, take Route 62 north and east to the park’s west entrance and from Klamath Falls, take Route 97 north to route 62 north and west to the park’s south entrance.

Approximate Mileage from the following major cities to Crater Lake National Park:

By Car:

North Entrance:

Medford, OR – 83.28 miles

Portland, OR – 238.34 miles

Salem, OR – 194.22 miles

Princeton, OR – 266.54 miles

Dayville, OR – 215.75 miles

West Entrance:

Medford, OR – 63.65 miles

Portland, OR – 265.43 miles

Salem, OR – 221.31 miles

Princeton, OR – 293.63 miles

Dayville, OR – 242.84 miles

South Entrance:

Medford, OR – 83.11 miles

Portland, OR – 269.92 miles

Salem, OR – 213.50 miles

Princeton, OR – 298.11 miles

Dayville, OR – 247.32 miles

The north entrance is closed in early November to mid-June. Some dates can vary but usually the north entrance is closed during the listed months.

Crater Lake National Park, P.O. Box 7, Crater Lake, OR 97604
(541) 594-3100
By Fax (541) 594-3010

Map

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Glacier National Park page 2

July 1st, 2009 No comments
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Apgar Visitor Center is open all year and is located at the foot of Lake McDonald, 2 miles north of West Glacier. During November through March it is open on weekends only. Rangers are available to answer questions and assist with trip planning needs. Logan Pass Visitor Center is open early June through mid-October. It is located in the center of Glacier National Park. 18 miles west of St. Mary, MT. Exhibits include highlights of the alpine ecosystem which covers almost 1/3 of Glacier National Park. Rangers are on duty to answer questions and assist with trip planning. The St. Mary Visitor Center is open May through mid-October and is located in St. Mary, MT. Rangers are on duty to answer questions and assist with trip planning here also. Ranger activities include evening slide programs, guided hikes, boat tours, and all day hikes.

The Lewis Overthrust of Waterton/Glacier provides scientists with insight about the massive dynamics of geologic processes that are going on today in other parts of the world, such as the Andes and the Himalaya Mountains. Because of the high degree of preservation of the original rock characteristics, the recent glacial sculpturing of the rocks, and the access by roads and trails, this major geologic structure in Waterton/Glacier Park is available for study by scientists from around the world. The Lewis Overthrust began 170 million years ago, when a collision of the Earth’s crustal plates elevated numerous mountain chains and formed the ancestral Rocky Mountains. Ever-increasing stresses near the end of this great event shoved a huge rock wedge, several miles thick and several hundred miles wide, eastward more than 50 miles. Large masses of relatively stronger rocks were shoved over softer and more easily deformed rocks. Erosion stripped away the upper part of the original rock wedge and exposed the rocks and structures visible in the park today. Rarely have rocks of such ancient age been thrust over rocks that are so much younger. The overlying Proterozoic rocks are over 1,500 million years older than the underlying Cretaceous age rocks. Thus, the Lewis Overthrust is significant as a structural feature, for the extent of lateral displacement (up to 80 kilometers), and because it has functioned to expose ancient sediments possessing an unparalleled degree of preservation.

Mt. Cleveland is the park’s tallest peak, listed at 10,466 feet, and more than one hundred other summits rise above 8,000 feet. The Livingston Range lies in the park’s northwest corner, trending northwest to southeast, and the parallel Lewis Range lies to the east of the Livingston Range. McDonald and Waterton Valleys formed in the bottom of the trough, along the Flathead Fault, near the western park boundary. The stretching of the landscape caused land on the west side of the fault to separate and tilt. The resulting “half-graben” trough is now occupied by the North and lower Middle Forks of the Flathead River.

The beautiful banding of the sedimentary layers in Glacier’s mountains is due to changes in conditions of the shallow seas where they were originally deposited. The shapes of Glacier’s peaks were carved relatively recently. Visible to the observer today are stunning amphitheater-like cirque basins and broad U-shaped valleys, formed initially through glacial activity dating to the last ice age, and knife-edged aretes and pyramid-shaped peaks shaped by more recent erosional forces.

Of particular scenic and geologic note is Chief Mountain, a spectacular monolith towering above the prairie along the eastern margin of Waterton/Glacier. Chief Mountain is an erosionally isolated remnant of the eastern edge of the upper plate of the Lewis Overthrust — a feature known as a Klippen ranking with the Matterhorn as an example of this structural and erosional phenomenon. Most of the rocks exposed in the park are sedimentary rocks of Proterozoic age, which were deposited from 1,600 to 800 million years ago. Rocks of that age in other parts of the world have been greatly altered by mountain building processes and no longer exhibit their original characteristics. These virtually unaltered Proterozoic rocks of Waterton/Glacier are unique in that they have preserved the subtle features of sedimentation such as ripple marks, mud cracks, salt-crystal casts, raindrop impressions, oolites, six species of fossil algae, mudchip breccias, and many other bedding characteristics. These Proterozoic sedimentary rocks, while outcropping over an area extending from southern Montana to southern British Columbia, are most impressively exposed in Waterton/Glacier. Due to the extreme relief and unexcelled exposures, over 2,100 meters of stratigraphic thickness is exposed to scientific examination. These features plus their chemical characteristics make the Proterozoic sediments of Glacier and Waterton National Parks unique for studying the physical and chemical conditions that existed on the Earth over a billion years ago. Such information is of great importance to scientists in understanding the stability or changes of the Earth s climates through geologic time. The recent glacial carving of these rocks has left them unusually fresh and beautifully exposed.

The glaciers in Glacier National Park today are all geologically new having formed in the last few thousand years. Presently, all the glaciers in the park are shrinking. More snow melts each summer than accumulates each winter. Geologists theorize that about 20,000 years ago the climate became cooler and/or wetter. This allowed for the formation of huge glaciers that filled the valleys with thousands of feet of ice. Imagine the valleys of Glacier National Park filled with ice, and just the tops of the highest peaks sticking out. These giant rivers of ice sculpted the mountains and valleys into their present appearance. Today’s glaciers are carving at the mountains as well. Although smaller, they work in the same way as the larger glaciers of the past, and teach us about Glacier National Park’s geologic history. As of 2005, Glacier National Park has 27 glaciers by definition.

The Park is filled with horns, cirques, arêtes, hanging valleys, and moraines; landforms given special names because they were produced by the action of glaciers. A horn is a steep mountain peak caused by several glaciers carving different sides of the same mountain. Mt. Reynolds at Logan Pass is a good example of a horn. A cirque is a large bowl formed at the head of a glacier. Often as the ice melts away a small lake will form in the depression gouged by the glacier. Avalanche, Iceberg, and Gunsight are all excellent examples of cirque lakes. An arête (French for fish-bone) forms when two glaciers work on opposite sides of the same wall, leaving a long narrow ridge. One of Glacier National Parks more prominent features, the Garden Wall, is an arête separating the Lake McDonald Valley from the Many Glacier Valley.

Hanging Valleys are found throughout the park. As large glaciers scoured the main valleys, tributary glaciers worked the smaller side canyons. Unable to cut as deep as the valley glaciers, they left behind small valleys high up on the mountainsides. Frequently hanging valleys have waterfalls cascading out of their mouths into the valleys below. Birdwoman Falls, seen from the Going-to-the-Sun Road, plummets from a hanging valley on Mt. Oberlin. Moraines form at the sides and front of a glacier. In a glacier there is always a flow of ice from the head to the toe. This conveyor belt like flow brings with it the rock and debris trapped in the ice. As it reaches the sides or front and the ice melts, this trapped material is released forming large piles. These piles of glacially transported material are called moraines. Moraines from the present glaciers are visible as mounds of rock and gravel along the sides and front of the ice. Plants soon colonize this new soil. Forests and meadows cover many ancient moraines making them harder to spot.

Recent archaeological surveys have found evidence of human use dating back over 10,000 years. These people may have been the ancestors of tribes that live in the area today. By the time the first European explorers came to this region, several different tribes inhabited the area. The Blackfeet Indians controlled the vast prairies east of the mountains. The Salish and Kootenai Indians lived and hunted in the western valleys. They also traveled east of the mountains to hunt buffalo. In the early 1800’s, French, English, and Spanish trappers came in search of beaver. In 1806, the Lewis and Clark Expedition came within 50 miles of the area that is now the park. As the number of people moving west steadily increased, the Blackfeet, Salish, and Kootenai were forced onto reservations. The Blackfeet Reservation adjoins the east side of the park. The Salish and Kootenai reservation is southwest of Glacier. This entire area holds great spiritual importance to the Blackfeet, Salish, and Kootenai people.

The railroad over Marias Pass was completed in 1891. The completion of the Great Northern Railway allowed more people to enter the area. Homesteaders settled in the valleys west of Marias Pass and soon small towns developed. Under pressure from miners, the mountains east of the Continental Divide were acquired in 1895 from the Blackfeet. Miners came searching for copper and gold. They hoped to strike it rich, but no large copper or gold deposits were ever located. Although the mining boom lasted only a few years, abandoned mine shafts are still found in several places in the park.

After the creation of the park, the growing staff of park rangers needed housing and offices to help protect the new park. The increasing number of park visitors made the need for roads, trails, and hotels urgent. The lack of roads meant that, to see the interior of the park, visitors had to hike or ride a horse. Eventually, the demand for a road across the mountains led to the building of the Going-to-the-Sun Road. The construction of the Going-to-the-Sun Road was a huge undertaking. Even today, visitors to the park marvel at how such a road could have been built. The final section of the Going-to-the-Sun Road, over Logan Pass, was completed in 1932 after 11 years of work. The road is considered an engineering feat and is a National Historic Landmark. It is one of the most scenic roads in North America. The construction of the road forever changed the way visitors would experience Glacier National Park. Future visitors would drive over sections of the park that previously had taken days of horseback riding to see. Just across the border, in Canada, is Waterton Lakes National Park. In 1931, members of the Rotary Clubs of Alberta and Montana suggested joining the two parks as a symbol of the peace and friendship between our two countries. In 1932, the United States and Canadian governments voted to designate the parks as Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park, the world’s first. More recently the parks have received two other international honors. The parks are both Biosphere Reserves, and were named as a World Heritage Site in 1995. This international recognition highlights the importance of this area, not just to the United States and Canada, but to the entire world.

Glacier is part of the Northwest Montana Avalanche Warning System, which provides a weekly assessment of local avalanche conditions. Forecasts are updated each Friday morning during the avalanche season, and broadcast by local radio stations. Information can also be obtained by calling 257-8402 or 1-800-526-5329. About 80% of avalanches occur during and immediately after storms. Avalanche activity increases with a foot or more of new snow, snowfall of one inch or more per hour, sustained winds over 15 miles per hour, changing temperatures, and during spring warming.

Over half of the visitors to Glacier National Park report taking a hike. That’s a lot of hikers, but over 700 miles of trail provide many outstanding opportunities for both short hikes and extended backpacking trips. Hikers need to assume individual responsibility for planning their trips and hiking safely. Before setting out on your hike, stop by a park visitor center to obtain needed warnings and recommendations. You will increase your odds of a safe hike, decrease your disturbance to park wildlife, and lessen cumulative damage to resources. Visitor center bookstores carry a complete line of trail guides, topographic maps and field guides to aid the hiker.

You will find little evidence of human impacts or development in Glacier’s pristine, off-trail areas. These vast areas offer greater solitude and challenge, but are extremely rugged, with greater inherent risks and infrequent ranger patrols. While off-trail hiking may be permissible, it is recommended only for the very experienced, skilled backcountry travelers. Glacier’s backcountry has grown in popularity over the years, resulting in cumulative impacts upon the park’s sensitive natural resources. High levels of backcountry use are typically concentrated in July and August, heightening the need for stewardship and sound backcountry management practices. Allow plenty of time for your trip and make sure you have everything you need before you set out. Help to minimize impacts on fragile soils and plants by staying on the trails and in single file. Please camp only in designated areas.

Five self-guided walks interpret trailside features with brochures and signs. The Trail of the Cedars, Huckleberry Mountain, Hidden Lake, Sun Point, and Swiftcurrent Nature Trails encourage hikers to experience Glacier National Park at their own pace. The Trail of the Cedars is wheelchair accessible. Good day hikes are plentiful. Visitor center staff will be happy to assist you with your choices and provide free maps of popular trails in the park. Hikers planning to camp overnight in Glacier’s backcountry must stop at a visitor center or ranger station and obtain a backcountry permit.

There are several day hikes available from the different campgrounds. The following trails are located near Apgar, Avalanche, Fish Creek and Sprague Creek campgrounds. Avalanche Lake is 2 miles long, climbs 500 feet and is located south of the Avalanche Gorge footbridge on the Trail of the Cedars. Boundary Trail is located at the park headquarters and can be as long as an 15 mile hike to Coal Creek, but is a gentle up and down along the Middle Fork of the Flathead. Fish Lake is 3 miles long with a 1,000 foot climb near the Lake McDonald Lodge. Howe Lake is 2 miles long with a 240 foot climb. John’s Lake Loop Trail is a 3 mile loop trail with a 160 foot climb. McDonald Falls is at the north end of Lake McDonald where you can see the falls from a bridge or a short trail. Mt. Brown Lookout is 5.4 miles long with a 4, 325 foot climb and is found on the Sperry Trailhead. Snyder Lake is 4.4 miles and climbs 2,147 feet, Sperry Chalet is 6.4 miles long and climbs 3,432 feet and Sperry Glacier is 10.4 miles long and climbs 5,032 feet and are all found at the Sperry Trailhead also. Trail of the Cedars is located across from the Avalanche Campground Ranger Station and is a 0.4 mile loop on a level boardwalk. Trout Lake is 4.2 miles long, climbs 2,100 feet and then drops 2,100 feet to the lake.

The following day hikes are located near the Cut Bank and Two Medicine campgrounds. Aster Park Viewpoint, Cobalt Lake, Dawson Pass, No Name Lake, Oldman Lake, Pitamakan Pass, Rockwell Falls, Running Eagle Falls, Scenic Point, Twin Falls, Two Medicine Pass and Upper Two Medicine Lake. The hikes range from .3 mile to 7.9 miles and have climbs ranging from 60 feet to 2,450 feet. These day hikes can be found around Logging Creek and Many Glacier campgrounds: Appekunny Falls, Cracker Lake, Granite Park Chalet, Grinnell Glacier, Grinnell Lake, Iceberg Lake, Poia Lake, Ptarmigan Falls, Ptarmigan Lake, Ptarmigan Tunnel, Red Rock Falls, Swiftcurrent Nature Trail, and Swiftcurrent Pass. They range in length of 1 to 7.3 miles and climbs of mostly level to 2,300 feet. The Rising Sun and St. Mary campgrounds offer the following day hikes. Baring Falls, Beaver Pond Trail, Otokomi Lake, Red Eagle Lake, St. Mary Falls, Siyeh Pass, Sun Point Nature Trail and Virginia Falls. These range from .3 mile to 7.5 miles in length and have climbs between gentle sloops and 1,900 feet.

There is plenty of wildlife to view in the park. Numerous birds make bird watching an enjoyable pastime. Also seen throughout the various parts of the park are black and grizzly bears, moose, elk, mule deer, mountain lion, big horn sheep, mountain goat, white-tailed deer, voles, squirrels, white-tailed jack rabbits, snowshoe hare, pika, river otters, wolves, coyotes, lynx and many others.

The introduction of exotic game fishes was found to be detrimental to Glacier’s native fishes. Predation and competition for space and food adversely affected several native species, and hybridization between indigenous and non-native species of fish also occurred. The native westslope cutthroat trout has been all but eliminated from several lakes, where it was once the dominant species. Today the National Park Service is engaged in fisheries research to determine the extent of damage to native fish populations, and to explore possible means for re-establishing native fishes in some waters where they have been eliminated or replaced by hybrid populations. Paramount importance is attached to the goal of ensuring the future survival of Glacier National Park’s unique native fishes for the benefit and enjoyment of future generations. The primary purpose of Glacier National Park is to preserve natural ecosystems for their aesthetic, educational, cultural and scientific values.

Fishing is permitted when consistent with preservation or restoration of natural aquatic environments, native fishes, and other aquatic life. The general park season is from the third Saturday in May, through November 30, with some exceptions: Waterton Lake season, catch and possession limits are the same as set by Canada, Lower Two Medicine Lake season, catch and possession limits are set by the Blackfeet Nation and Lake McDonald and St. Mary Lake are open to lake trout (mackinaw) fishing year around.

Glacier National Park offers a variety of boating experiences. Boat launching ramps are available on Bowman and McDonald Lakes on the west side, and St. Mary and Two Medicine Lakes on the east side of the park. Boat rentals are available at Apgar, Lake McDonald Lodge, Rising Sun, Many Glacier, and Two Medicine. Canoes or rafts can be carried to many smaller waters. White water canoeing, kayaking, or rafting can be enjoyed on the Flathead River which forms the south and west boundary of Glacier. The rivers and lakes in this mountainous region are very cold. All water users (boaters, swimmers, and skiers) should be aware of the dangers of hypothermia at any time of the year. Water skiing is permitted only on Lake McDonald and St. Mary Lake from sunrise to sunset.

Generally, the trails of Glacier National Park are open to stock (i.e., horses, mules, donkeys, llamas), as well as foot travel. There are a few trails, however, that due to their physical condition or unsuitability, are not available for stock use. They are not allowed off trail. Most of the backcountry campsites are available for stock. Please ask the park for their stock regulations. Certain conditions may cause trails to be closed to stock use. Generally, this is in the early summer, when they still have steep snow banks, before trails have dried out sufficiently, or during extended periods of wet weather. Bear activity may also result in temporary closures at any time. To be certain, check at a visitor center or ranger station. The day use limit shall be no more than 10 animals in a party, except on the trails maintained to handle more stock travel. Backcountry campgrounds have designated capacities for numbers of people and stock that cannot be exceeded. Competition is very keen at some areas for available space from July to mid-August. Stock users are encouraged to plan overnight trips after this period, when trails and campgrounds are less crowded, in better condition for horse travel, and there are fewer insects. When planning an overnight trip in the backcountry using stock, be aware that certain campsites are not available for stock use due to size or resource considerations.

To the casual observer, a remote park like Glacier would seem likely to have excellent air quality. However, there are some areas of concern. At Glacier an extensive monitoring network exists for pollution and visibility conditions. Air quality in Glacier is generally good compared to many parks. Current ozone concentrations and deposition are low enough that resources are probably not affected. Visibility impairment exists but is not as bad as that found in most of the United States.

Air pollution is one of the most important environmental issues facing the National Park Service (NPS). Data collected through the NPS air quality programs show that park service units are not islands isolated from the by-products of an urban, agricultural and industrial society. Manmade and natural air pollutants are transported long distances and have been detected at all NPS monitoring sites. Air pollution is affecting natural and cultural resources throughout much of the park system through visibility reduction, biological and human health effects and degradation of historic structures and artifacts. NPS units that are monitoring air quality, such as Glacier, are serving as key areas for research on air pollution and are yielding valuable baseline data and basic information on the effects of air pollution.

The Clean Air Act, as amended in 1977, provides one of the most important mandates for protecting air resources in NPS areas. Congress states that one of the purposes of the act is “to preserve, protect and enhance the air quality in national parks, national wilderness areas, national monuments, national seashores and other areas of special national or regional natural, recreation, scenic or historic value”.

The National Park Service began air quality monitoring programs in 1979 at various park units throughout the United States. Data from these stations help to delineate the mobility of air masses over large areas. Analysis of data yields information about air pollution transport into parks with monitoring stations as well as adjacent units that may not have any monitoring instrumentation.

Information collected through the NPS air quality monitoring programs has been used in a variety of decision-making arenas. Baseline data have assisted the NPS Air Resource Division in reviewing hundreds of air quality permit applications from major and new and modified industrial facilities whose activities might affect air quality in parks. Information regarding visibility impairment and pollution-caused injury to vegetation in NPS units has been shared with Congress and transmitted to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and state air quality control agencies to promote the development of national air pollution control programs and standards that will protect park resources.

Glacier’s western valleys generally receive the most rainfall. Daytime temperatures can exceed 90 degrees F. It is frequently 10 to 15 degrees cooler at higher elevations. Strong winds and sunny days predominate on the east side of the park. Overnight lows throughout the park can drop to near 20 degrees F, and snow can fall anytime. In August of 1992, a foot of snow fell on the northeastern corner of Glacier. An average of 39 inches falls in January, the highest month. Prepare for a variety of conditions and pack accordingly. You may start the day in a T-shirt and shorts, and need a parka by evening. Dress in layers. Always bring raingear.

There are several fishing regulations. Daily catch and possession limits will not exceed five (5) fish, including no more than: two (2) cutthroat trout, two (2) burbot (ling), two (2) northern pike, two (2) mountain whitefish, five (5) lake whitefish, five (5) kokanee salmon, five (5) brook trout, five (5) grayling, five (5) rainbow trout, five (5) lake trout (mackinaw). EXCEPTION: Fifteen (15) lake trout (mackinaw) are allowed in Kintla Lake; Lake McDonald and Bowman Lakes have no limit on lake trout. Lake McDonald also has no limit on lake whitefish.
Fishing for bull trout is prohibited and any bull trout incidentally caught must be immediately released. Fish caught in Lower McDonald Creek (from the Quarter Circle Bridge and upstream, extending into Lake McDonald for a radius of 300 feet) must be handled carefully and released immediately to the stream/lake. Only artificial flies or lures with a single hook may be used in Lower McDonald Creek. No fish of any species may be in possession at any time along this stream/lake. Fish caught in Hidden Lake and outlet must be released, except when closed for spawning. Cutthroat trout caught on the North Fork of the Flathead River must be released in accordance with state regulations.

Fishing is allowed by hook and line only. The rod or line must be hand held. The use of artificial lures and flies is strongly recommended. The use of fish or fish parts, including non-preserved fish eggs, of any species is prohibited. No bait, including insects and worms, may be collected inside the park’s boundaries. Do not deposit fish eggs, roe, food, or other substances in waters to attract fish. Fishing with nets, seines, traps, drugs, or explosives is prohibited. Snagging fish in park waters, or from park lands, is prohibited. When cleaning fish, use garbage cans where available for entrails disposal. When cleaning fish in the backcountry, puncture the air bladder, and throw entrails into deep water at least 200 feet from the nearest campsite or trail. Do not bury or burn entrails, as they will attract bears. Consider “catch and release” fishing; otherwise, keep only enough fish for a meal. Be a clean fisherman! Leave nothing behind–except a few footprints.

All motorboats and sailboats 12 feet in length and longer must be registered and numbered according to State of Montana regulations. Hand propelled boats are exempt, and boats from other states or countries may be used temporarily without Montana registration. Keep to the right in channels when safe & practicable. Keep to the right when approaching another boat head-on or nearly so. Boats propelled by a motor shall keep clear of boats propelled by oars, paddles, or sails. Yield right-of-way to vessels on your right side in crossing situations. Yield right-of-way to vessels you overtake or pass. Hand-propelled boats and sailboats are permitted on all park waters, except on a section of Upper McDonald Creek. The section of Upper McDonald Creek between Mineral Creek and Lake McDonald is closed to all types of boating and floating to protect nesting Harlequin ducks. Privately owned motorboats and motor vessels are prohibited from all park waters with the exception of the following:
Motorboats and motor vessels are allowed on McDonald, Sherburne, St. Mary, Two Medicine, and Waterton Lakes (no boat launch ramps exist on Sherburne Lake; only hand carried craft are permitted). Motorboats and motor vessels are allowed on Bowman and Two Medicine Lakes but are limited to ten (10) horsepower or less. A wearable type personal floatation device is needed for each person on board, classified as Type I, II, III, or V. The throwable (Type IV) floatation device, such as a cushion or ring buoy, can no longer be substituted. Children under 12 must wear a personal floatation device. Flame arrestor (USCG approved) must be on each carburetor on inboard gasoline engines. Fire extinguisher(s) (B-1 type) or a fixed fire extinguisher system for all inboard engines and outboards with enclosed fuel compartments are needed. Sound producing device for each motorboat 16 feet and longer. Navigation lights are needed for motorboats and sailboats used between sunset & sunrise.

“Airboats”, “Para-sailing”, or use of personal watercraft on any park waters is prohibited. Also not allowed is operating a vessel in excess of 5 mph within 100 feet of a diver’s marker, downed water skier, or swimmer, discharging toilet wastes into the water, and depositing trash, refuse, or debris of any kind in the water. Reckless or negligent boat handling so as to endanger or be likely to endanger the lives of others is not allowed. Neither is boat handling by any person under the influence of alcohol or drugs or riding the gunwales, transom, nor foredeck while boat is moving faster than 5 mph. Swimming from boat while underway is not allowed. Never leave a boat unattended for more than 24 hours without specific authority from the superintendent or his duly authorized representative. Any accident resulting in death, personal injury, or property damage shall be reported (by each boat operator involved) to a park ranger as soon as possible, and no later than 24 hours after the incident. Boaters should render assistance to all persons needing help. Give in writing the name and address of the boat operator and the identification of the boat to any injured person or to the owner of any property damaged.

Boating may be restricted in certain areas for safety or to protect sensitive wildlife habitat. Marker buoys and/or signing will be placed to designate the closures. To provide for the safety of the general public using beaches for swimming and other similar activities, the segments of the south shoreline of Lake McDonald are closed to the beaching of any motorized watercraft; and, motorized watercraft are prohibited within an area extending into the water 300 feet perpendicular to the shoreline.

Undesignated camping is not allowed on lakes or lakeshores. A Backcountry Use Permit is required for all designated backcountry campsites. Permits are issued for periods of up to 6 nights and may be obtained at visitor centers and major ranger stations. A special permit is need for doing anything on the Blackfeet Reservation. Backcountry camping regulations require that food, cooking utensils, and food containers be suspended from the designated food hanging device at all times, except mealtimes. If needed, when not in a designated campground, suspend food and cooking utensils at least 10 feet above the ground and 4 feet from any tree trunk. In the absence of trees, store food and cooking gear in approved bear resistant food containers. Never leave food unattended. Fires are allowed in designated fire pits only. Use the Leave-No-Trace principles. A good backpacking checklist is: tent with rainfly, sleeping bag and mat, camp stove, fuel, matches, fire starter, food, water or water filtering system, first aid kit, extra medications, cooking utensils, flashlight with extra batteries and bulb, compass, topographical map, GPS unit, signal mirror or whistle, repair kit, good hiking boots, backpack, sunglasses, sunscreen, hat, insect repellent, 2 quart water bottle, collapsible water container, garbage bags to pack out what you pack in, 25 feet of rope to hang food and garbage if not using the bear-proof containers, trowel to bury human waste in a 6-8 inch “cat hole”, and a small mesh strainer to strain food particles from gray water.

Cyclists must observe all traffic regulations. Keep well to the right side of the road and ride in single file only. Pull off the road if four or more vehicles stack up behind you. In fog or after dark a white light in front and a red reflector on the rear of your bicycle are required. Be visible! Helmets are strongly advised. Attach a bright flag on a pole and wear light-colored clothing. Watch for falling rocks, drainage grates, and ice on road. For safety and to ease congestion, restrictions are in effect on sections of the Going-to-the-Sun Road, from June 15 through Labor Day: From Apgar Campground to Sprague Creek Campground bicycles are prohibited, both directions, between 11 a.m. and 4 p.m. From Logan Creek to Logan Pass east-bound (uphill) bicycle traffic is prohibited between 11 a.m. and 4 p.m. Start early! It takes about 45 minutes to ride from Sprague Creek to Logan Creek and about three hours from Logan Creek to Logan Pass. Bicycle rentals are not available inside the park.

The proper use of Glacier’s backcountry will prevent damage to the natural resources, maintain the aesthetic quality of the area, and avoid conflicts with other users. Please comply with the following regulations, guidelines and Leave No Trace techniques. Grazing of stock is not permitted. Stock users need to pack supplementary feed such as grain or pellets. Feed must be hung out of reach of bears using the established food hanging device or an NPS approved bear-resistant feed container (available to checkout at permit stations). Transporting hay into or through Glacier is prohibited, except on the portion of U.S. Highway 2 which passes through the park. Due to problems with noxious weeds, feeding hay at trailheads or backcountry campgrounds is prohibited. When not being used, pack and saddle stock must be tethered. Horses, llamas or mules that are nervous “diggers” or “pawers” should be hobbled when tied to prevent unnecessary damage to the terrain. Please tie at least 200′ from streams or lakes. Always use hitch-racks where provided. Where there are no hitch racks, tie a rope between two trees, “a highline” away from the trail and hitch the stock to the rope. This avoids damage to the tree and trampling around the root system. Stock are not permitted in the camping areas of campgrounds. Load & unload at the hitch rails provided. Loose herding or trailing is prohibited. Hikers are required to stand quietly on the lower side of the trail and yield the right-of-way to stock. Many hikers do not know and understand the need for this procedure, so stock users are encouraged to courteously coach them on proper meeting procedures. Please stay on established trails. Cross-country riding or riding on paved roads is not permitted. Scatter manure after camping or stopping for long periods and smooth out any ruts or holes. Stock is not permitted in auto campgrounds.

For skiers, take into account your skiing ability, and check with rangers for local weather and snow conditions. Severe weather, lack of snow, winter rains, or melting conditions can quickly alter the difficulty of any winter trip. Ice is common on roads and on heavily skied trails. Plan to break trail on less popular routes. The Middle and North Forks of the Flathead River present major barriers to travel on the west side of the park. Skiing on frozen lakes is dangerous and not recommended. Skiers, snowshoers, and hikers are asked to maintain separate tracks. As winter snows start to melt, emerging vegetation is revealed. Please stay off these fragile areas. Spring skiing opportunities remain at Granite Park, Many Glacier, and Logan Pass, but remember, warming conditions greatly increase avalanche activity. Most ski routes are not marked. Pay attention to descriptions and local landmarks. A topographic map will help. Arduous cross park trips contain extreme avalanche and terrain hazards and should be attempted only by experienced and well equipped parties.

Avalanches are a major danger and potential killer to winter backcountry travelers. An understanding of avalanche conditions is the skier’s best defense. Watch the signs of previous activity. These include old avalanche paths, downed trees, recent slides, and clumps of snow. Choose the safest route. Stay off cornices, steep to moderate open slopes, and stay out of gullies. If you must travel on a dangerous slope, go straight up or down; never traverse back and forth. Learn to recognize dangerous weather conditions. Carry rescue equipment including rescue shovels, ski probe poles, and transceivers. If you must cross a steep slope, cross one at a time, loosen all pack straps, remove ski pole straps, fasten all layers of clothing, and put on a hat and gloves. If caught in an avalanche, discard all equipment and make swimming motions toward the surface. As the sole survivor, do not go for help unless it is only a few minutes away. After 30 minutes, the buried victim has only a 50% chance of surviving. Mark the place where the victim was last seen, search directly down slope from this point for clues, and begin to probe immediately at the most likely location. Use probes, ski poles, skis, or anything available. With more than one survivor, send for help while the rest search.

Winter backcountry travel increases the risk of hypothermia and frostbite. Hypothermia, the “progressive physical collapse and reduced mental capacity resulting from the chilling of the inner core of the body”, is the primary killer of outdoor enthusiasts. Drink liquids, stay dry, carry survival equipment, and wear layers of warm clothing, and snack frequently. Be alert to symptoms of drowsiness and confusion. Once hypothermia sets in, external sources of warmth are necessary to revive the victim. Frostbite can occur on the ears, fingers, toes, face, or any exposed skin.

Current Weather

Consider yourself lucky to see a black or grizzly bear. But remember…the wilderness is their home. Please be a well-mannered guest. Bears are usually shy; however, make no attempt to approach or startle them. They have been known to attack without warning. When hiking make some noise to alert them of your presence. Never offer food to bears and never get between a sow and cub. As bears have an excellent sense of smell, it is important to avoid the use of odorous food. See the Wildlife Precautions page.

Remember, survival during the long winter is difficult for Glacier’s wildlife. Human contact adds unnecessary stress. Avoid approaching or startling any animals or birds. All park animals are wild and should never be fed. Bears, asleep for most of the winter, sometimes awaken for short periods of time. As always in bear country, exercise extreme caution, especially with food and garbage. If approached by a mountain lion, act aggressively. Do not run! Lions may be scared away by being struck with rocks or sticks, or by being kicked or hit.

The entrance fee for all persons traveling in a single private, non-commercial vehicle (car/truck/van) is $15.00 December 1, 2006 – April 30, 2007 (winter rate) and $ 25.00 May 1, 2006 – November 30, 2006 (regular season rate). The 7 day single entry fee per person for a visitor traveling on foot, bicycle, motorcycle, or for individuals traveling together in a vehicle as a non-commercial, organized group is $ 10.00 December 1, 2006 – April 30, 2007 (winter rate) and $12.00 May 1, 2006 – November 30, 2006 (regular season rate). This applies to all individuals 16 and over. Single Vehicle Pass starting May 1, 2007 is $25.00/7 days. Single Person Entry starting May 1, 2007 is $12.00 By foot, bicycle, or motorcycle for 7 days.

The Glacier National Park Annual Pass is $35.00 and is valid for one year from month of purchase. It admits the purchaser and passengers in a single, private, non-commercial vehicle, or the pass holder and his/her immediate family (spouse, children, parents) when entry is by other means (foot, bicycle). It is non transferable, nonrefundable and does not cover camping fees.

Backcountry Permit fees are $4.00 per person per night (June 1 through September 30). The fee for ages 9-16 is $2.00. There is no fee for campers aged 8 and under. An additional fee of $20 will be charged for confirmed advance reservations for June 15 through October 31. The individual campground fees are between $15-17per night. Advance Backcountry reservations requests can be made by fax 406-888-5819 or U.S. Mail begining April 1, 2007. Fees for for making the advance reservations are $30.00 and for 16 and older $5.00 per person per night for 8-15 $3.00 per person per night for 7 and under are free.

Glacier has 13 campgrounds with approximately 1000 sites. Fish Creek and St. Mary Campgrounds may be reserved in advance. All others are first come/first served. Reservations can be made online or by phone at 1-800-365-CAMP. A limited number of sites at Apgar, Fish Creek, Sprague Creek, Avalanche, Many Glacier, Rising Sun, Two Medicine, and St. Mary campgrounds are held until 9:00 p.m. for bicyclists, pedestrians, and motorcyclists. Sites are shared and have a capacity of 8 people; larger groups must split up. The fee is $4.00 per person. If hiker/biker sites are full, campers must use regular unoccupied campsites. Group sites for 9-24 campers are available at Apgar, Many Glacier, St. Mary, and Two Medicine. Check with a park ranger or campground host prior to using them. Front country camping fees in Glacier Advance can make reservations at Fish Creek and St Mary Campgrounds. They are $23.00 a night and can be made six months in advance online at www.recreation.gov or by phone 877-444-6777. From April 1 through April 30, 2007 primitive camping is $10.00 per night. From April 1 through April 30, 2007 primitive camping is $10.00 per night. Beginning May 1, 2007 Class A camping fee will be $20 per night (campgrounds with flush toilets) Class B will be $15 night (campgrounds with pit toilets) Group camping is a $50 flat fee for the first 9 campers then $5 per person over that up to site limit if 24.

Keep a clean camp to prevent attracting wildlife. Violators will be fined $50 or have their improperly stored items confiscated. Do not burn trash in fires. Secure your valuables out of site. Quiet hours are from 10PM to 6AM. Generators are allowed between the hours of 7AM to 9AM, 12 Noon to 2PM, and 5PM to 7PM. Pets must be on a leash not longer than six feet and are not permitted along streams, shores, rivers or trails. Pets must not be left unattended and all pet waste must be picked up and deposited in a trash receptacle. Only dead and downed wood is allowed for firewood and only from certain areas. Please check with the park when you arrive. It is prohibited to use campground faucets to wash dishes, clothing, and clean fish, prepare food or to bathe. All wastewater must be contained and disposed of in the utility sinks or at a dump station. Do not leave wastewater unattended.

Apgar campground is the largest campground in Glacier National Park. It is near Apgar Village, where you will find the Apgar visitor center, gift shops, a camp store, and a casual restaurant. Horseback ride reservations, boat rentals, a shuttle service, and bus tour reservations are also located in Apgar Village. There is a new free shuttle service which will start July 1, 2007. The campground itself is situated in trees and provides tent and RV campers with shade and some privacy. Potable water is accessible in the campground, and restroom facilities provide flush toilets and sinks with running water. Evening sunsets on Lake McDonald are only a short stroll from the campground, and you won’t want to miss evening programs at the Apgar Amphitheater with a ranger. Please see our ranger guided activity schedule for more information. For those interested in day hiking, many trails are located within a short drive of the campground.

Avalanche campground is located in one of the most popular sections of Glacier National Park west of the Continental Divide. The campground is situated within old growth cedar and hemlock trees, keeping the area cool during the summer months. The campground accommodates tent and RV campers, however only 50 sites will accommodate vehicle lengths up to 26 feet. Potable water is accessible in the campground, and restroom facilities are equipped with flush toilets and sinks with running water. Bring your hiking boots and binoculars if you are staying at Avalanche Campground. Two popular day hikes, Trail of the Cedars, and Avalanche Lake, afford visitors spectacular scenery and glimpses of birds and wildlife that inhabit the area. Plant enthusiasts will appreciate the diverse species of flora. Be sure to check out many of the evening programs with a ranger at the Avalanche Amphitheater, just a short stroll from the campground. Sites are on a first-come, first-serve basis.

Bowman Lake campground is located in the North Fork area of Glacier approximately 32.5 miles from the west entrance, and 30 miles from the Canadian border. The drive to Bowman Lake is a very slow, dusty, and bumpy ride on dirt roads, and passes through the tiny community of Polebridge and sections of the park that notably burned in 1988. Mountains tower over pristine Bowman Lake. The campground is located close to the shore and camp sites are within trees for shade and some privacy. Tent campers looking for peace and quiet will enjoy Bowman Lake for its serenity and remote location. Be sure to pack bug repellent or head nets though, as mosquitoes often take residence at Bowman Lake. Potable water is available through water spigots in the campground, and there are pit toilets nearby. A picnic area provides day use visitors with the opportunity to enjoy a peaceful lunch, and there are day hiking opportunities near Bowman Lake for hikers eager to experience Glacier’s wilderness. Fisherman, canoers, and kayakers will enjoy the recreational opportunities Bowman Lake offers. Motorized vessels are allowed on Bowman Lake, but are limited to 10 horsepower or less. Limited amenities can be found in Polebridge. RVs and truck and trailer combinations are not recommended at Bowman Lake due to the nature of the long, narrow, and windy dirt road to the campground. Turning vehicles around (3-point turns) is difficult. Sites are on a first-come, first-serve basis.

The Cut Bank campground is located on the east side of Glacier and provides a sense of peace and quiet that may not be found in larger campgrounds within the park. The campground is accessed by a 5 mile dirt road off of highway 89. The Campground is located among trees, providing shade and privacy for tent campers. RVs are not recommended due to the nature of the road and campground layout. A water pump is available for potable water, and pit toilets are located nearby. Trailheads are also near the campground for day hiking use or extended trips into the backcountry. Shuttle service can be found off of highway 89 at the beginning of the dirt road that leads to the campground. Day hiking opportunities are available at Cut Bank and offer spectacular views into Glacier’s interior. Cut Bank offers campers the opportunity to enjoy a primitive camping experience with serenity and solitude. Sites are on a first-come, first-serve basis.

Fish Creek campground is located just off the Camas Road approximately 2.5 miles from Apgar Village on the west side of Glacier National Park. It is the second largest campground in the park. Sites within the campground are surrounded by trees and provide shade and some privacy to both tent and RV campers. Some sites, though not directly on the shore of Lake McDonald, offer filtered views of the lake. Potable water is accessible in the campground, and restroom facilities provide flush toilets and sinks with running water. A park ranger hosts nightly evening programs at the Fish Creek Amphitheater, speaking on a variety of subjects about Glacier. Please see our ranger guided activity schedule for more information. Fish Creek serves as a central location to many day hikes in the area, including the Rocky Point trail, where you have the opportunity to hike through a burn area from the Robert Fire of 2003. Take advantage of morning and evening drives along the Camas Road where there is a good chance of seeing wildlife. Sites are on a first-come, first-serve basis, though advance reservations for Fish Creek may be made.

Kintla Lake campground is Glacier National Park’s most remote front-country and car camping campground. It is located in the upper most northwest section of the park known as the North Fork, approximately 40 miles from the west entrance and the Canadian border. Though the drive is very slow and bumpy on dirt roads, the scenery along the way is spectacular. Part of the drive takes you through the tiny community of Polebridge, and sections of the park that notably burned in 1988 and 2003. Due to its remote location, the campground is very quiet and is very rarely filled, offering tent campers a sense of solitude. The campground sits on Kintla Lake and is surrounded by trees, providing shade, cover, and filtered views of the lake and the mountains that circle it. A hand pump is available for potable water, and pit toilets are located in the campground as well. For those who canoe and kayak, Kintla Lake is a paddlers paradise; no motorcraft is allowed. Fisherman will also enjoy Kintla Lake for the trout found in it. And if you like to hike, don’t forget to pack your boots, as day hikes and extended trips into the backcountry can be found near the campground. It isn’t uncommon to hear the memorable howls of wolves at night. Limited amenities can be found in Polebridge. RVs and truck and trailer combinations are not recommended at Kintla Lake due to the nature of the long, narrow, and windy dirt road to the campground. Sites are on a first-come, first-serve basis.Logging Creek campground is located on the west side of the park and is accessed by the Inside North Fork Road, a rough, dusty, dirt road with many blind curves and few pullouts. The maximum speed is 20 mph, so the drive can be long if traveling from the Fish Creek area; less, if traveling from Polebridge. Tent campers will enjoy a true wilderness experience at the campground. This small campground is located within trees and views are limited, though a 6.2 mile (one way) day hike to Logging Lake will provide great views. The campground is equipped with pit toilets and a hand pump for potable water. Limited amenities can be found in Polebridge. RVs and truck and trailer combinations are not recommended at Logging Creek due to the nature of the long, narrow, and windy dirt road to the campground. Sites are on a first-come, first-serve basis.

The campground at Many Glacier is one of the most popular campgrounds in Glacier National Park. Camp sites are on a first- come, first- serve basis, and due to the popularity of this campground, it is suggested you arrive early. The campground is situated within trees for tent and RV camping, though there are only 13 sites that can accommodate vehicle lengths up to 35 feet in length. Potable water is accessible in the campground, and restroom facilities are equipped with flush toilets and sinks with running water. Be sure to join a ranger for nightly evening programs. Please see our ranger guided activity schedule for more information. Bring your binoculars, as there are opportunities to view wildlife like bighorn sheep and bears. Many Glacier also provides access to some of the best day hikes in the park, including a hike to one of the park’s largest glaciers, so don’t forget your hiking boots. There are token operated showers nearby as well as many tour and dining options.

Quartz Creek campground is Glacier National Park’s smallest campground and is considered to be primitive. It is located on the west side of the park and is accessed by the Inside North Fork Road, a rough, dusty, dirt road with many blind curves and few pullouts. The maximum speed is 20 mph, so the drive can be long if traveling from the Fish Creek area; less, if traveling from Polebridge. Tent campers will enjoy a true wilderness experience at the campground. This small campground is located within trees and views are limited, though a 6.2 mile (one way) day hike to Lower Quartz Lake will provide great views. The campground is equipped with pit toilets and a hand pump for potable water. Limited amenities can be found in Polebridge. RVs and truck and trailer combinations are not recommended at Quartz Creek due to the nature of the long, narrow, and windy dirt road to the campground. Sites are on a first-come, first-serve basis.

Rising Sun campground is located where, “the mountains meet the prairies”, just west of St. Mary and halfway along St. Mary Lake. Campers at Rising Sun will enjoy beautiful sunrises in the morning with Red Eagle Mountain as a backdrop, and the campground serves as a convenient base camp to many day hikes located east of Logan Pass. Some sites are open, allowing for cool breezes throughout the day, while others are located among trees, accommodating those seeking some shade and privacy. Potable water is accessible in the campground, and restroom facilities are equipped with flush toilets and sinks with running water. Be sure to join a ranger for nightly evening programs. Please see our ranger guided activity schedule for more information. Adjacent to the campground is a camp store, a casual restaurant, and token operated showers (1 shower stall for men, and 1 shower stall for women). Boat tours on St. Mary Lake are located near Rising Sun, and shuttle service is available at this location. Sites are on a first-come, first-serve basis.

Sprague Creek is a small campground located on the northeast shore of Lake McDonald, about 9 miles from the west entrance of the park. Camp sites are on a first-come, first-serve basis, and due to the size of this campground, it is suggested you arrive early. The campground is located within trees, providing shade during warm summers. Some sites near the shore, have unobstructed views of Lake McDonald. Due to its location along the Going-to-the-Sun Road, the campground is not as quiet as other locations in the park, and vehicles can be heard driving by. Tent campers however, will enjoy this campground as no towed units are allowed in Sprague Creek due to the nature of the road within the campground. Potable water is accessible in the campground, and restroom facilities provide flush toilets and sinks with running water. A picnic area is also located within the campground. Amenities such as a camp store, restaurant, gift shop, tour buses, boat tours, and horse rides can be found at the historic Lake McDonald Lodge, about a mile away from the campground. Evening programs with a ranger are also located at Lake McDonald Lodge.

St. Mary campground is the largest campground on the east side of Glacier National Park, and is conveniently located approximately one half mile from the St. Mary visitor center. Activities such as interpretive programs, book sales, shuttle service, and bus tours are located at the visitor center. Though shade may be sparse, aspen trees grace St. Mary campground with soothing sounds from spring and summer breezes, and colorful splashes of yellow late in the season. Views of Singleshot, East Flattop, and Red Eagle Mountains compliment the landscape. Potable water is accessible in the campground, and restroom facilities provide flush toilets and sinks with running water. Sites are on a first-come, first-serve basis, though advance reservations for St. Mary may be made.

Before the Going-to-the-Sun Road opened for vehicle traffic, Two Medicine was an extremely popular destination for visitors. Still holding its majestic beauty, Two Medicine is now a quiet and peaceful location in Glacier National Park, located approximately 13 miles from East Glacier. Sites are on a first-come, first-serve basis. Sites within the campground at Two Medicine are generally shaded by trees, and offer some privacy from other campers. 13 sites up to 32 feet offer RV campers the opportunity to spend time in Two Medicine. Potable water is accessible in the campground, and restroom facilities are equipped with flush toilets and sinks with running water. Be sure to join a ranger for nightly evening programs at the amphitheater within the campground. Please see our ranger guided activity schedule for more information. Located on the shore of Two Medicine Lake stands what used to be the Two Medicine Chalet built by the Great Northern Railway. It now serves as a camp store and gift shop, and is a registered historic landmark. Shuttle service, boat tours, and bus tours can be found at Two Medicine. There are numerous day hiking opportunities available, including a handicap accessible trail to Running Eagle Falls. Wildlife enthusiasts will want to have their binoculars handy in Two Medicine.

Big Hole National Battlefield, Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area, Fort Union Trading Post National Historic Site, Grant-Kohrs Ranch National Historic Site, Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument, Nez Perce National Historical Park, Yellowstone National Park, Kootenai National Forest, Flathead National Forest, Flathead Lake, Lewis and Clark National Forest, Helena National Forest, Lolo National Forest, Blackfeet Indian Reservation and Flathead Indian Reservation are all nearby and provide ample vacation options.

The closest airports are Glacier Park International Airport in Kalispell, Montana (25 miles from West Glacier) and in Great Falls, Montana (200 miles from West Glacier). Car rentals are available at both airports. Shuttles are available at the Kalispell airport.

Vehicles longer than 21 feet or wider than 8 feet (including mirrors) are prohibited on the steepest sections of the Going-to-the-Sun Road.

Public transportation options are limited. Shuttles from airports and train stations provide some service to visitors to the park.

Approximate Mileage from the following major cities to Glacier National Park:

By Car:

Missoula, MT – 202.70 miles

Helena, MT – 274.52 miles

Great Falls, MT – 189.45 miles

Kalispell, MT – 97.37 miles

Lethbridge AB, CA – 80.80 miles

Longview AB,CA – 154.88 miles

By Plane:

Glacier Park International Airport – 88.29 miles

Backcountry Reservations, Glacier National Park, West Glacier, MT 59936
Glacier National Park, Park Headquarters, PO Box 128, West Glacier, MT 59936
Visitor Information (406) 888-7800
Telecommunication Device for the Deaf (TDD) (406) 888-7806
By Fax (406)-888-7808

Map

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The park is open year-round. Bullfrog Visitor Center is open April, 8 am – 5 pm and May through September, 10 am – 7 pm. It is closed from approximately November 1 to February 28 and opens intermittently in March. It is located on Highway 276. Exhibits relating to geology and the human and natural history of Glen Canyon, Ancestral Puebloan and pioneer artifacts, and a life-size model of a slot canyon can be found here. There’s also a bookstore, rest rooms and medical clinic (May thru early October only). Carl Hayden Visitor Center is open mid-September through mid-May, 8 am – 5 pm and mid-May through mid-September 8 am – 6 pm. It is closed Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Years. It is located at Glen Canyon Dam on Highway 89 in Page, Arizona. There are Ranger given map talks in the summer, an orientation film, and dinosaur tracks exhibit, as well as three-dimensional map of Glen Canyon NRA, photos and history of the construction of Glen Canyon Dam, a bookstore, rest rooms, and dam tours. Navajo Bridge Interpretive Center is open mid-April through October, 9 am – 5 pm and weekends only early April and November (hours: 10 am – 4 pm). It is closed December thru March. It is located on Highway 89A near Lees Ferry, Arizona. There is a pedestrian walkway across the old Navajo Bridge which spans the Colorado River 470 feet (143 m) below in Marble Canyon, an interactive video and a bookstore here. All visitor centers are handicapped accessible.

The Halls Crossing Boater Contact station is designed as a self-serve visitor information center. It is open from approximately 8am – 6pm in the summer. There are exhibits on boater information and safety, geology, and a history of Halls Crossing. Hans Flat Ranger Station is open intermittently. (435-259-2652) The Hite Ranger Station is open intermittently throughout the year and is located just off Highway 95 at Hite, Utah.

Various cultures have utilized area resources for thousands of years. The Ancestral Puebloan (“Anasazi”) culture is the most conspicuous, but evidence of other cultures, including Paleo-Indian, Fremont and Paiute are present. The Hole-in-the-Rock trail and historic site is a reminder of Mormon pioneer heritage and uranium mining claims date from the boom of the 1940′s and 50′s.

Prehistoric Indians migrated seasonally through the canyon country, but they left little evidence of their life here at Glen Canyon: a few stone tools, grinding stones, remnants of baskets. The Indians, known today as Ancestral Puebloans (called “Anasazi” by the Navajo, a word loosely translated as “ancient ones”), began to build masonry houses, kivas, and storage rooms. The Glen Canyon area was probably on the outskirts of Ancestral Puebloan settlement. No large communities were built in this area, but a few small cliff dwellings and other archeological sites have been found.

Scattered across the mesas and canyon country of the Southwest are remnants of the once-thriving Ancestral Puebloan culture: dwellings and storage rooms, pictographs and petroglyphs, potsherds, corn cobs, and baskets. These ancient structures and items are a legacy, linking us with the past. Within Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, only certain sites are designated “open” sites which may be visited: the Ancestral Puebloan sites of Defiance House, Three Roof, Widow’s Ledge (to the fence only), Hole-in-the-Rock Trail, Baker Bench Petroglyph Panel, Colorado River Petroglyph Panel, Baker Bench Petroglyph Panel, Lees Ferry Historic District, and Lonely Dell Ranch Historic District. All other sites are “closed” to park visitors. You may observe and photograph “closed” sites from a distance, but entering them is prohibited by law.

Defiance House, three miles up the middle fork of Forgotten Canyon, is one of the best-preserved Ancestral Puebloan dwellings in Glen Canyon. Defiance House was discovered in 1959. Exploring the area before Lake Powell was created, University of Utah archeologists followed a dangerous hand-and-toe-hold trail up the sandstone cliff and were delighted to find an Anasazi site where “most of the roofs were still in place, and… two perfect red bowls still had scraps of food in them.” They named the site “Defiance House” for the large pictograph (rock painting) of three warriors brandishing clubs and shields. Defiance House was occupied from about 1250 to 1285 AD. No one knows why the Ancestral Puebloans built in such an inaccessible place. The site is protected from the elements in the winter, and it is shady and cool in the summer. Or perhaps it was a place of refuge, easily defensible high in the cliff. The structures and rock art are very old and are fragile. Please do not sit, lean or stand on walls. Enter buildings only through doorways or by ladder into the kiva.

Cass Hite lived in Glen Canyon as long as anyone except the Ancestral Puebloans. Cass, who had been prospecting in the Navajo Mountain country, arrived in Glen Canyon in September, 1883. Cass was looking for gold, and he found it in the sands and gravels along the Colorado River. His discovery set off the Glen Canyon gold rush. Cass Hite had reached the Colorado River by way of White Canyon, and near its mouth, he’d found a good place to cross the river. He named it “Dandy Crossing.” Indeed, it was the best crossing of the Colorado River above Lees Ferry. The many prehistoric sites in the area suggest that this river crossing was well known to early inhabitants as well as to the Navajo.

Hopeful prospectors soon headed for Glen Canyon and the town they named “Hite City.” But the gold the miners found was all fine gold dust, difficult to recover, and mining operations soon petered out. Cass Hite built the first structure in the town site named after him. It was a cabin of notched logs salvaged from the river. A post office was established in 1889. Mail was brought by horseback from the railhead at Green River, 100 miles away. Cass and his brothers operated a small store in conjunction with the post office, services much appreciated by the miners and others passing through. Cass died at his ranch in Ticaboo Canyon in 1914. Cass Hite’s log cabin, the store, and the post office are gone now-submerged beneath the waters of Lake Powell.

The canyons and mesas of the region appear, at first glance, to be harsh and devoid of life. Upon closer examination, however, there is an amazing variety of plants and animals to be found in Glen Canyon. Black-tailed jackrabbits, ravens and other birds, and a variety of small lizards are the most common animals encountered. Watch for collared lizards which are very patient and offer unusual photo opportunities. Large mammals, such as mule deer, beaver, Rocky Mountain elk, and coyotes may be spotted occasionally. A small population of desert bighorn sheep inhabits the rugged canyons and slickrock mesas east of the river, but they are rarely seen. Canyon wrens, warblers, cedar waxwings, western tanagers, and northern harriers are readily seen and will make it worth your while to bring binoculars for some great bird watching.

Plant communities vary from pinyon-juniper woodlands in higher elevations to riparian zones where Fremont cottonwoods and willows predominate. In between are blackbrush/Indian rice grass, shadscale, and sagebrush communities. Among the most unique sights are the “hanging gardens” found clinging to sandstone walls where seeps provide plentiful water. Delicate maidenhair fern is the most common plant found here. Springtime presents delightful opportunities to photograph and enjoy such wildflower species as the claret cup, cliffrose and Fremont barberry, while shooting-stars, scarlet gilia and bearded beardtongue bloom through the summer.

At an elevation of 6,000′ is a different life-zone. At the higher elevation grows a forest of pinion and juniper. Both of these trees were utilized by Indians and early settlers. The pinion produces tasty, nut-like seeds which can be roasted, ground, or eaten raw. The juniper cones (which look like berries) are edible and are used as flavoring in gin. Although not related to the true cedars of the Mediterranean, the fragrant wood of the juniper is often used for “cedar” shakes, boxes, and chests.

Lake Powell has much to offer in the way of water activities for the whole family. You could rent a houseboat and swim and fish right off the side or use personal watercrafts to explore other areas of the lake. You will be able to kayak, scuba dive, water ski, and explore the lake’s numerous side canyons by boat. There are plenty of marinas to help keep you having fun on your family vacation.

Wahweap Marina, located 5.5 miles (8.9km) from the visitor center along Lakeshore Drive near Page, Arizona, is the largest marina site on Lake Powell. It offers a wide variety of visitor services and opportunities for recreation. The city of Page also offers numerous visitor services and is the site of Glen Canyon Dam. Wahweap Marina was named for Wahweap Canyon, a side canyon of the Colorado River now covered by Lake Powell. “Wahweap” is a Paiute word meaning bitter or alkali water. In the days before Glen Canyon dam, this was a favorite stopping place for river runners on the Colorado, as well as a favorite camping spot for cowboys running cattle in the area. Both the marina and the city of Page owe their existence to Glen Canyon dam. Prior to the 1960′s, neither existed.

Dangling Rope Marina, 40 miles (64km) up-lake from Glen Canyon Dam, replaces the marina that was formerly in Forbidden Canyon near Rainbow Bridge National Monument. This marina is accessible only by water. According to the late author and Glen Canyon historian C. Gregory Crampton, the canyon was named Dangling Rope Canyon in the pre-dam days when some river runners found a rope dangling down from a 40-foot (12m) cliff wall. At the same location were some pecked steps, possibly of prehistoric origin. It appeared, however, that the steps had been enlarged at some time, probably by uranium prospectors in the region in the 1940′s and 50′s. At Dangling Rope, the National Park Service provides a ranger station, restrooms, free boat pump-out station, and emergency communications. During the summer season, interpretive rangers are stationed at nearby Rainbow Bridge National Monument. Rangers from Glen Canyon National Recreation Area patrol Rainbow Bridge National Monument and provide visitor information, even though the monument is a separate unit of the National Park Service and is subject to more stringent regulations regarding visitor use & activities than is Glen Canyon NRA.

Halls Crossing Marina was a place well-known on the Colorado River long before the creation of Lake Powell. It was the site of a popular river crossing for many years. Today, Halls Crossing Marina, located on the eastern shores of Lake Powell across from the Bullfrog Marina, offers many services to visitors. It’s about 95 (153km) miles upstream from Glen Canyon Dam. The National Park Service maintains a ranger station at Halls Crossing. It also provides a launch ramp and free boat pump-out station.

Charles Hall was one of the first pioneers to settle in southern Utah. A skilled carpenter and one of the founders of Escalante, Utah, Hall built the boat at the Hole-in-the-Rock which ferried the pioneer company across the Colorado River in 1870.Hall continued operating the ferry with his two sons at that location, but the route was very arduous. In 1880, he found an easier crossing 35 miles (56km) upstream, the present site of Halls Crossing.

The State of Utah maintains a regularly scheduled ferry, capable of carrying cars, trucks; RV’s and trailers, which runs between Halls Crossing and Bullfrog. This is a fee service and is available on a first come, first served basis. The ferry is occasionally out of service for repairs. If ferry service is crucial to your trip, we recommend you call ahead to verify that it is in service.

Bullfrog Marina is approximately 95 miles (153km) up-lake from Glen Canyon Dam, with the Waterpocket Fold on one side and the Henry Mountains on the other. It offers the largest array of services of any of the up-lake marinas. The National Park Service provides a launch ramp, portable toilet dump station, free boat pump-out station, picnic area, fish cleaning station, and paved landing strip for aircraft.

It is uncertain just exactly how Bullfrog got its name. In the days before the dam, there was a small rapid on the Colorado River at the mouth of Bullfrog Creek (now Bullfrog Bay). The rapids were named Bullfrog Rapids, probably after the creek. Older maps, however, show Bullfrog Creek on the east side of the river. The drainage that is now Bullfrog Bay was called Pine Alcove Creek on these maps. The most probable scenario was that Bullfrog was mis-named for Bullfrog Creek.

Another story is that Bullfrog was named for a rock formation found on Mount Elsworth, in the Henry Mountains just north of Bullfrog. Though there is no evidence to support this theory, you can see what appears to be a large frog stretched out on the west face of Mount Elsworth when driving south to Bullfrog on Highway 276. This formation is especially visible in the late afternoon sun.

The Escalante Subdistrict has no marina or launch ramp to access to Lake Powell. It does, however, provide for some of the best backcountry hiking and camping experiences within Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. The lower section of the Escalante River, approximately 12 miles, can be reached by boat from the main channel of Lake Powell. All of the canyons in the Escalante drainage feature excellent hiking opportunities.

The Escalante River was named in 1872 by A.H. Thompson, a member of the Powell Survey who passed through the upper basin area on a mapping expedition. He was traveling through the area again in 1875 when a group of Mormon pioneers were planning a settlement in the area. Thompson suggested they name their new town Escalante. The name comes from the Dominguez-Escalante Expedition of 1776. Two Spanish priests, Frs. Dominguez and Escalante, traversed much of the southwest in a grueling expedition in an attempt to reach California from Santa Fe, New Mexico. The party did not reach the Escalante drainage, but Thompson, who knew the history of the area, thought it would be a good way in which to honor one of the first known explorers of the Southwest.

Ranching was one of the primary occupations of the new village and the cowboys soon began to push their way into the many canyons of the Escalante seeking good grass and lost cattle. They were among the first non-Indians to see the arches, bridges, alcoves, and other wonders which draw visitors today.

The Escalante Interagency Office is located on the west side of town. This houses a visitor information center, as well as the combined offices for the Dixie National Forest, the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, and the Escalante Subdistrict of Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. The Visitor Center is open 7 days a week, 7:30 AM to 5:30 PM from mid-March through the end of October. The remainder of the year it is open from 8 AM to 4:30 PM Monday through Friday.

The Escalante River flows in exquisite desert canyons before emptying into Lake Powell, some 80 miles from its source. However, the river’s potential for running is limited. Generally, only peak spring runoff flows are runable. While high water periods may vary, peak runoff usually lasts for about two weeks, but many occur anytime from early April through May. Check with the BLM or NPS in Escalante for current conditions. An inflatable kayak is preferred for running the Escalante. The water is quite shallow and boats must be able to slide over rocks and gravel without structural damage. Rubber rafts are not recommended because of their width and bulk; hard shell craft are often damaged due to the numerous obstructions. Depending on your take-out point, weight will be a factor as some take-outs require a hike of up to three miles with an elevation gain of 800 to 1000 feet. Therefore, choose a craft that is light and maneuverable for the float as well as the hike out.

The best put-in is where Highway 12 crosses the river, fourteen miles east of Escalante. Floaters may take out at the confluence of Coyote Gulch and the Escalante River, but a strenuous hike up a steep sand dune via “Crack-in-the-Wall” to the trailhead at Fortymile Ridge is required; the elevation gain is nearly 900 feet. You may also paddle across Lake Powell down the Escalante Arm and around to Hole-in-the-Rock. This take-out requires only a 1/2 mile hike, but the elevation gain is a steep 600+ feet and requires climbing over boulders and ledges to reach the top. The easiest take-out is to have a motor boat pick you up on Lake Powell.

Low water is the biggest obstacle to float trips. A flexible schedule is required to have your trip coincide with high water. Check frequently with the BLM or NPS for current conditions. Water volume generally doubles with the addition of water from Boulder Creek and Deer Creek, about six miles downriver from Highway 12. Portaging or lining boats through riffles may be required. Several fences also cross the river, so floaters must remain alert.

Geologic formations exposed in the Escalante Canyons are sedimentary layers deposited millions of years ago during the Triassic and Jurassic periods. These layers were alternately deposited by shallow seas, vast deserts and sluggish streams. Listed below are the predominant rock layers found in the canyons. Please note that formations are listed in order from lower to upper layers.

Chinle Formation: Laid down by meandering streams and shallow lakes, this multi-colored formation is seen in the upper reaches of east side tributaries. It erodes fairly easily, undercutting the Wingate sandstone above, resulting in boulder strewn slopes. This formation is found predominantly in the Circle Cliffs area.

Wingate Sandstone: Deposited as sand dunes when a huge desert covered the region, this formation, when undercut by the Chinle below, forms angular vertical-walled cliffs.

Kayenta Sandstone: This formation has alternating hard and soft layers laid down by sluggish streams. Where exposed, the Kayenta forms ledges and terraces.

Navajo Sandstone: This sandstone was also deposited as desert dunes and aries in color from white to yellowish and light orange. Lying above the erosion-resistant Kayenta, it forms domes and rounded surfaces. The Navajo is the primary formation found in those canyons which flow to the river from the west. Most arches and natural bridges in the area are found in this formation.

Carmel Formation: Deposited by shallow seas, this siltstone-like formation was formed during the Jurassic Period. Its color varies from maroon and purple to gray and brown. Found west of the river in the Harris Wash, Egypt and Early Weed Bench trailhead areas.

Located 15.3 miles (24.4 km) down the river from Glen Canyon Dam, Lees Ferry is a meeting of the old and the new ferry. Lees Ferry is the only place visitors can drive to the Colorado River in over 700 miles of Canyon Country, right to the first “rapid” in the Grand Canyon. A natural corridor between Utah and Arizona, Lees Ferry figured prominently in the exploration and settlement of Northern Arizona. Lees Ferry is now a meeting of the old and the new. The Lees Ferry and Lonely Dell Ranch Historic District offers a glimpse of the old western life from the pioneers in the late 1800’s, through the miners at the turn of the century, to the ranchers of the 1940’s. Two self-guided walking tours interpret two different parts of the district: the Ferry and the Ranch.

Just upstream from the Lees Ferry Launch Ramp is the ferry-crossing site and several historic buildings. A “Walking Tour Guide” may be purchased at the entrance to the area. It tells the story of the different ferryboats and the pioneers, miners, Indians, and tourists who crossed here from 1872 until 1928. The complete tour is about a 1-mile (1.6-km) roundtrip. Take drinking water with you.

The Lonely Dell Ranch near the mouth of the Paria River was home to the families who operated Lees Ferry. In the 1870’s and 1880’s, the place was so isolated that the families working at the crossing needed to be self-sufficient, growing food for themselves and their animals. Hard labor changed the barren desert into a green oasis. The main ranch buildings are about 700 feet (213 m) up the dirt road from the parking area. A “Walking Tour Guide” may be purchased at the entrance to the ranch. The complete tour of the orchard, log cabins, stone ranch house, and pioneer cemetery is about a 1-mile (1.6-km) round trip. There are picnic tables and shade trees at the ranch. Take drinking water with you.

Lees Ferry continues to be a center of modern activity. Here at the very start of the Grand Canyon, adventurous river runners launch their boats for trips down the canyon. Fishermen enjoy world-class trout fishing upstream to Glen Canyon Dam. Backpackers finish their 4 or 5 day hike through the Paria Canyon Wilderness Area here. Day-hikers explore slot canyons and desert ridges.

Hiking at Lees Ferry offers several options for outdoor adventure. River Trail starts at the launch ramp and follows the old wagon road past the fort to the upper ferry-crossing site. A “Walking Tour Guide” is available. The two-mile round-trip walk takes about an hour. Fishermen’s trails continue upstream another half a mile, but there is no access into lower Glen Canyon. Paria Canyon Trail starts at the Lonely Dell Ranch parking area and continues 45 miles upstream to Hwy 89 in Utah. Overnight hikes require a permit from the Bureau of Land Management. Day hikers can enjoy the unique geology of the area. Please use the 14-day parking lot if you will be out overnight. Cathedral Canyon is a two-mile (3.2-km) round-trip hike that is not along a defined trail. You must find your own way down the intermittent stream bed, or wash, inside a narrow slot canyon with interesting rock formations. Be alert for flash floods. There is a rapid and beach along the Colorado River at the mouth of the canyon. Parking for this hike is at the second pullout from Hwy 89A, along the Lees Ferry Road. Spencer Trail is a historic trail that climbs 1700 feet up the cliff behind the Lees Ferry Fort. It is not regularly maintained but is passable to careful hikers. Views down Marble Canyon are memorable.

The canyons of the Escalante River offer many fascinating hiking/backpacking trips. The Escalante is rugged country with no formal trail system. Hikers should be experienced in the use of map and compass and thoroughly familiar with the techniques of canyon and slickrock hiking. Maps and other information are available at the Interagency Visitor Information Center in the town of Escalante. Always consult with a ranger at the Information Center for route information, trail and weather conditions, and other necessary information needed for a safe trip.

Moody Creek is a 6 mile one-way trip that is scenic and moderately strenuous, without technical difficulties. It leads into Moody canyon where you’ll see extensive, richly-colored exposures of the Chinle formation and an old uranium exploration camp. Davis Gulch is a 3.5 to 4 mile hike one-way past a number of beaver ponds which must be waded through or circumvented. Fiftymile Creek has two trailheads. From Cave Point trailhead to Lake Powell is 5.2 miles one- way. The Soda trailhead to Lake Powell is 5.5 miles one-way. There are no technical difficulties on either hike. There are opportunities for some rock climbing and wading. Harris Wash trailhead to the Escalante River is 10 miles one-way. Harris Wash is an easy hike with no technical difficulties. The stream must be continually crossed or waded. Wear appropriate shoes.

Coyote Gulch/Hurricane Wash is 12.3-13 miles one-way. The hike through Coyote Gulch is relatively easy, with two minor exceptions – a climb down a ledge near a waterfall and a steep descent down sandstone followed by a rather difficult climb down a second ledge. Coyote Gulch contains two arches, a natural bridge, and several waterfalls. It is easy to understand why this beautiful canyon is by far the most popular hiking destination of all the canyons of the Escalante. When hiking in Coyote Gulch in spring or fall, plan on encountering a number of other visitors. A minimum of three days will be required to explore the length of Coyote Gulch.

Twentyfive Mile Wash is 7-14.2 miles one-way depending upon where you start from. At least two to three days should be spent exploring the wash. Twentyfive Mile Wash presents an easy hike with no technical difficulties. Wading shoes are needed for walking in the stream. The streambed tends to contain a considerable amount of clay, so the wash presents a somewhat “muckier” hike than other canyons, especially after high stream flows. Scorpion Gulch is a 3.3 to 5.5 mile hike and is rather challenging, requiring cross-country route-finding skills. There is a lengthy hike over slickrock and sand, a descent down a sand dune, and walking through soft sand and alluvial deposits. The lower half of Scorpion Gulch is an easier walk beside a small stream with no difficulties other than two boulder jams and a small pour off, requiring some minor scrambling. Fence Canyon can be reached by the Egypt trailhead on a 2.75 mile one-way hike that leads to the river. A beautiful panorama awaits you from the Egypt trailhead at the edge of Allen Dump Bench. You can see views of the Escalante country, the Henry Mountains, and Fence Canyon as it leads toward the Escalante River. Fence Canyon is primarily used as a route to the Escalante River and other canyons up- or downstream, but Fence Canyon itself presents an interesting day hike.

Wahweap offers several day hiking options also. Glen Canyon Dam Overlook is a very short walk that takes you to a viewpoint on the canyon rim high above the Colorado River. It affords an unparalleled view of the river, the canyon, and Glen Canyon Dam. Horseshoe Bend View is a short hike that takes you to a spectacular view of Horseshoe Bend and the Colorado River from high atop the canyon rim. Wiregrass Canyon is a longer, more strenuous hike that takes you into Wiregrass Canyon, a steep-sided wash which leads down to Lake Powell. The hike through the wash provides views of colorful cliffs, balanced rocks, alcoves, and natural bridges. Wiregrass Canyon provides little shade, and the rocks reflect the sun’s heat. Fall, winter, and spring are the best times for this hike. If hiking in the summer, start as early in the morning as possible.

Lake Powell has created a new realm for fishermen. Before Glen Canyon Dam was built, the Colorado River was so full of silt that only carp, catfish, suckers, and the Colorado River squawfish could survive in its murky waters. Now, abundant game fish thrive in the clear waters of Lake Powell. Introduced species such as bass and crappie as well as walleye, bluegill, and catfish challenge the avid fisherman. The striped bass was introduced into Lake Powell in 1974. This fish can live in both fresh and salt water, and can be recognized by the series of dark stripes running the length of the back and sides. The largemouth bass has adapted to a wide variety of habitats. The body of this fish is elongated with dark green sides and a silvery belly. A broad, dark horizontal band with irregular patches extends midway on the sides. Smallmouth Bass is similar to the largemouth bass, but it has a smaller jaw and is bronze rather than greenish in color. Channel Catfish is prized both as a sport and food fish. The body is pale bluish-olive above and bluish-white below. Spots vary from a few to many. Endangered fish include Squawfish, Humpback Chub, Bonytail Chub, and Razorback Sucker.

The backcountry and primitive roads of Glen Canyon National Recreation Area are a great way to enjoy the scenery of the Colorado Plateau while mountain biking or scenic driving. In Wahweap, there is Warm Creek Road, Crosby Canyon Road, Alstrom Point Road and Grand Bench Road. These vary in difficulty and can be sandy or rocky. The Bullfrog/Escalante area has Hole-in-the-Rock Road, Purple Hills and Burr Trail. Halls Crossing/San Juan has Hole-in-the-Rock Road, a continuation of the pioneer trail from Escalante, and John’s Canyon. These are rocky and require hiking. Orange Cliffs has Flint Trail, North Hatch Canyon, Panorama Point/Cleopatra’s Chair, Land’s End/Big Ridge, Standing Rocks, Brown’s Rim, Blue Notch and Elaterite Basin. The roads offer interesting geologic views along with Indian and cowboy petroglyphs and excellent scenic views, although they can be rough travel. Road conditions may vary depending on the time of year and recent weather conditions. Inquire locally before setting out! Take along a shovel and plenty of water.

John Atlantic Burr was born in 1846 aboard the SS Brooklyn somewhere in the Atlantic Ocean. He and his family lived in Salt Lake City, then later moved south and established the town of Burrville, Utah, in 1876. John Burr soon developed a trail to move cattle back and forth between winter and summer ranges and to market. This cattle trail through the rough, nearly impassable country around the Waterpocket Fold, Burr Canyon, and Muley Twist Canyon came to be known as the Burr Trail. Today, the road which connects Bullfrog and Boulder, Utah, and which passes through the painted rock country of Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Capitol Reef National Park, and Bureau of Land Management (BLM) land is known as the Burr Trail.

Although in dry weather the Burr Trail is easily accessible to passenger cars, wet weather may make the road impassable even for 4WD vehicles. Check with rangers or local officials for weather and road conditions. Recreational vehicles are not recommended. There are many trailheads off of this road that lead to spectacular views of canyons, arches and mountains. The Navajo Mountain and Henry Mountains and the Waterpocket Fold, a 100-mile long bend in the earth’s crust, extending from Thousand Lake Mountain in the north to Lake Powell in the south; can be viewed along this route. The mountains are laccoliths, formed when magma pushed overlying sedimentary rock up into a dome. The Navajo Mountain is rounded, but the Henry Mountains have much of the sedimentary rock that has since been eroded away, exposing much of the igneous rock underneath. There are five peaks ranging from Mt. Holmes at 7,930′ elevation to Mt. Ellen at 11,615′ elevation. The Henry Mountains were among the last important mountain ranges in the continental United States to be named. When Major John Wesley Powell saw them in 1869, during his exploration of the Green and Colorado Rivers, the Henry Mountains did not appear on any official map. Powell first called the mountains the “Unknown Mountains,” but he later named them for Professor Joseph Henry, who was Secretary of the Smithsonian Institute at that time.

Driving the Hole-in-the-Rock Road also offers several different perspectives of the canyon. The portion of the Hole-in-the-Rock road which runs from Escalante, Utah to the Hole-in-the-Rock on the western shore of Lake Powell offers the easiest routes with the eastern side being rougher and requiring a four-wheel drive. This 62 mile (100km) drive (one way) follows the general route of the original Hole-in-the-Rock expedition of 1879. Most of the road is on land managed by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM); however the last approximately 5 miles are within the boundaries of Glen Canyon NRA. Most of the road on BLM land is passable to high-clearance, two-wheel drive vehicles in dry weather. The last few miles within Glen Canyon are best traveled by foot, bicycle, or four-wheel drive vehicle. There are numerous side-roads that leave this main road. Nearly all of these are only recommended for four-wheel drive.

Devil’s Garden has spectacular rock formations. This site has been designated as an Outstanding Natural Area by the BLM. Always carry water when walking in the desert! Twenty Mile Spring, now called Collett Wash, is where the pioneers had to dig in the sand for water. Dance Hall Rock is a large, solid sandstone amphitheater. The pioneers set up a base camp near here and held dances in the natural theater, accompanied by violins, to keep the morale up. Hole-in-the-Rock Arch has a commemorative plaque mounted in stone next to the road, pointing out a natural arch at the top of the Kaiparowits Plateau. Careful observation will reveal faint remains of wagon tracks to the side of the road. Construction of the Hole-in-the-Wall passageway was very difficult. The workers were plagued by lack of wood, forage for cattle, bitter cold, and diminishing food supplies. Blasting powder and picks were used to widen and/or fill various sections of the crevice. At the lower part of the Hole, a road was constructed on the side of a sheer cliff wall. Although a three-foot shelf had already existed, an extension to the shelf was formed by driving two-foot stakes into the rock and piling vegetation and rocks on top. This portion of the trail was nicknamed “Uncle Ben’s Dugway” in honor of its engineer, Benjamin Perkins. After six weeks of picking, chiseling, drilling, blasting, and digging, the Hole-in-the-Rock road had been completed.

Hole-in-the-Rock is accessible by boat from Lake Powell. It is located at buoy 66, which is 66 miles (106 km) up-lake from Glen Canyon Dam or approximately 30 miles (48 km) down-lake from Bullfrog and Halls Crossing. Boaters may tie up along the rocky shoreline. The trail is to the right and is easier to follow above the high water mark. Look for the informational exhibit on the right-hand slope. When hiking, be sure to notice the miners’ stairs, added by the Hoskaninni Mining Company around the turn of the century, as well as grooves and gouges from the wagon wheels and hubs of the original pioneers.

The increasing popularity of wildland recreation has led to unprecedented demands on the backcountry resulting in greater impact on the resources we all love and enjoy. In some cases, areas have been “loved to death.” The desert is not indestructible rock and sand; it is a fragile ecosystem and scars take years to heal. Proper low impact hiking and camping is required to preserve this pristine desert country. By being courteous and thoughtful, we can leave the area as we would like it left for us.

Rainfall is scarce–less than 7 inches yearly. Soils, where they exist at all, are thin and nutrient-poor. Every scrap of life here is hard-won. Human-caused scars can take lifetimes to heal. Charcoal and soot from campfires, human and animal waste, litter, tire tracks, even footprints will endure long after our journey through the land is over. These are the beacons we leave for those who follow us. Everything we do in the desert leaves a mark. We must think about what we do and about the people who will visit this place later. The desert can be as fragile as a snowflake. Treat it with care.

When hiking, walk on slickrock or sand whenever possible. All vehicles, including mountain bikes, are required to stay on roads. Stay on established trails to prevent creating new ones. Likewise, never cut switchbacks. Cryptobiotic soils, the dark crust of lichens, fungi, algae and moss which binds desert soils, is easily damaged when walked upon and may take years to regenerate.

Washing should be done at least 100 ft (31m) from any water source, including potholes. Pothole water is a precious and necessary source of water for desert wildlife. If you pollute that source or otherwise make it unavailable, you have just made life that much harder for them.

Leaving anything, including human and pet wastes, on the shores or in the waters of Lake Powell is unacceptable and illegal. Solid wastes, not urine, are the problem. Certain areas of the lake are periodically closed to swimming because of bacterial contamination from feces. Because desert soils lack sufficient bacteria, fungi, and moisture, buried organic materials decompose extremely slowly. Human and pet wastes left on beaches, as well as wastes dumped directly in the water, cause pollution and can cause closures.

Since 1988, the National Park Service has monitored Lake Powell for fecal coliform bacteria (FC). FC is found in the digestive tracts of warm-blooded animals like dogs, cows, and humans. When FC is detected in the lake, it indicates recent fecal contamination, and that pathogens, commonly contained in feces, might also be present. Every two weeks, biologists take water samples at about 50 beach and marina locations and test for E. coli, a specific type of FC. When a sample exceeds a 126 MPN (Most Probable Number of bacterium) per 100 milliliters of water, the site is rechecked. Sampling continues until contamination no longer exists. If counts remain high for two consecutive samplings, the site is closed to swimming. Signs and bright yellow buoys mark any closed areas.

Once an area is closed, water samples are taken every day until the bacterial concentrations return to safe levels, and the beach can be reopened. Since the implementation in 1995 of the Strategic Plan to Protect Water Quality at Lake Powell, beach monitoring has shown a marked improvement in the bacterial water quality of Lake Powell.

Glen Canyon Dam was constructed and is operated by the Bureau of Reclamation, an agency within the Department of Interior. The controversy surrounding the construction of the dam is often cited as the beginning of the modern-day environmental movement.

As part of the authorization of the dam project, a unit called Glen Canyon Environmental Studies (GCES) was formed to study the impact of the dam on the Colorado River, through Marble and Grand Canyons downstream. Their findings have changed dramatically the way the dam is operated today. Though their name has changed to Grand Canyon Monitoring & Research Center, this unit continues to study the environmental impacts of Glen Canyon Dam.

Summers are extremely hot, with little, if any, shade. Winters are moderately cold with night time lows often below freezing. Spring weather is highly variable with extended periods of winds. Fall weather is usually mild. Temperatures range from 110° F (38°C) in June & July to O° F (-16°C) in December & January. Precipitation is generally light (less than 6 inches–15.2cm– annually) though heavy rains and flash flooding can occur in spring and summer.

Thunderstorm season is from mid-July thru September and is the period when flash flood danger is greatest. Flash floods may occur anytime, however, so keep an eye on the sky–especially before entering a narrow canyon. Camp above the flood plain each night to avoid an unpleasant “midnight surprise.” Remember that storms several miles away may cause flash floods where you are, even though you are enjoying clear skies.

Lees Ferry is rugged country. Temperatures can be extreme, ranging from 0° in the winter to 115° F in the summer (-18° to 43°C). Avoid the heat. Wear reflective clothing and a hat. Use sunscreen. Flash floods are possible during stormy weather and can occur even when the sky is clear overhead. Carry plenty of water – at least one gallon (4 L) per person per day. Ask at the ranger station for further information and current hiking conditions. Do not hike alone. Pack out everything that you pack in. Carry out all trash and food scraps. Tell someone where you are going and when you will return.

Persons planning to hike overnight within Glen Canyon National Recreation Area are required to obtain a free Backcountry Use Permit before commencing; overnight hikers visiting Bureau of Land Management administered lands need to obtain the same permit. These permits help provide statistical information which assists resource monitoring and management. Route itinerary information can help personnel locate hikers should an emergency occur or a search effort for overdue hikers be necessary. The best months for hiking the canyons are March thru mid-June and September and October. The waterproof Trails Illustrated map, USGS topographic maps, the Escalante Resource Area Recreation Map, and other publications are available for sale at the Escalante Interagency Visitor Center. Topographic maps may also be ordered from the USGS, Public Inquiries Office, 125 South State Street, Salt Lake City, UT 84138. Water availability varies from hike to hike. An abundance of springs may be available on some hikes; other hikes may have no water at all. Always filter or boil water since Giardia or other pathogens may be present. Stay on established roads and trails. Watch your step. Do not hike on cryptobiotic crust (the dark crusty growth on top of the sand). Keep children nearby at all times. Do not leave children or pets in closed vehicles.

Remember that a good backpacking checklist will make your stay in the wilderness more enjoyable and safe. Some needed things are: tent with rainfly, sleeping bag and mat, ground cover, backpack, layered clothing suitable for the season, food, water, water purification system, collapsible water container, 1-2 quart water bottle, first-aid kit, extra medications, repair kits, camp stove, matches, fire starter, cooking and eating utensils, toilet kit, flashlight with extra batteries and bulb, knife or multipurpose tool, rain gear, a 20-30 foot length of rope, garbage bags, small trowel, topographical map, compass or GPS unit, sunglasses, sunscreen, and wide brimmed hat.

Large groups cause more impact to trails and campsites and concentrate human waste. They are also more obtrusive and diminish the wilderness experience for others. For these reasons, the recommended group size limit is eight persons. The maximum number of people allowed in the backcountry of the Escalante is twelve. Pack and saddle stock are also limited to twelve animals. In canyons, walk in or along streams so that high water will erase your footprints. Following these practices will prevent erosion and soil damage. When possible, choose an existing campsite with no vegetation or organic soil. Sandy or slickrock benches make the best sites. All campsites should be at least 100 feet, preferably 200 feet, from water sources to prevent contamination. Fires leave unsightly soot marks and damage soil organisms. Cutting wood harms trees and is often prohibited. Gathering dead and down wood upsets the delicate balance of an area. Desert plants and wildlife depend on this dead wood for homes and sustenance. Bring along a small camp stove and use it. Do not make “improvements” such as trenches or rock structures and avoid trampling vegetation around the perimeter which prevents the campsite from becoming enlarged and barren. When leaving your camp, rehabilitate the area by scattering dead leaves or twigs around. Make sure nothing has been left behind.

The dry desert climate often preserves waste before decomposition is complete, so extra attention is required. For human waste, dig a “cat hole” six to eight inches deep and at least 100 feet from water sources. Carry out the toilet paper in a plastic bag. All washing should also be done at least 100 feet from water sources. Use only biodegradable soaps and pour wash water on the ground away from springs and streams.

Dogs threaten wildlife and may prevent hikers from seeing any animals. They also foul campsites, trails and streams, so their excrement must be disposed of in the same manner as human waste. Additionally, they may get into trouble in this rugged country. For their own safety, to prevent intrusions on others and for your convenience, pets are best left at home. If you do bring a pet, they must be kept on a leash within Glen Canyon NRA. Saddle and pack stock are welcome, however processed feed must be carried to prevent spread of noxious weeds. Picket stock away from campsites and water sources and in a manner to prevent pawing of roots or stripping bark. Animals may damage trees if tied to them.

Do not boat below the cable downstream from the launch ramp. There are dangerous rapids below the cable. Downstream waters are restricted. A permit is required from Grand Canyon National Park to float this section of the river.

If you can boat it in, you can just as easily boat it out. There is no regular garbage collection upriver. Plastic litter bags are available, free of charge, at the Ranger Station. Leaving even small scraps of garbage behind encourages flies, ants, and rodents to invade an area and make camping less pleasurable. Do not bury trash. It will be uncovered either by high water flows or by animals. Dumpsters are available at the launch ramps for garbage disposal. If you have a boat with a marine sanitation device on board, use it–and make sure everyone else in the group uses it too. If you don’t have on-board toilet facilities, carry and use portable toilets. Note: Anyone camping in the recreation area within one-quarter mile (.5 km) of Lake Powell is required to carry and use a portable toilet unless their boats or campers are self-contained or unless toilet facilities are available within 200 yards (188m) of where they’re camping. Dispose of holding tank and portable toilet wastes properly–at boat pump-out and dump stations at all marinas.

Leave all artifacts where you find them. Collecting pieces of pottery, arrowheads or any other item is against the law which is strictly enforced. Heavy penalties may be imposed. Vandalism destroys sites for scientific investigation and the enjoyment of others. Avoid camping in archeological sites. It’s easy to destroy walls and artifacts in the dark. Charcoal from modern fires may also contaminate archaeological evidence making it impossible to date ancient campfire remains. If you encounter archaeological or historical sites, please treat these irreplaceable resources with care. Do not camp in or near these sites nor climb on them. Even “open” cultural sites are very old and fragile. Walls erode easily. Edges of kivas are brittle and may break under your feet. Walk carefully and avoid treading on walls, storage rooms, buildings, and kiva edges. Resist touching petroglyphs or pictographs. Oils from skin damage pictographs (rock paintings) and petroglyphs (rock carvings). Avoid picnicking in archeological sites, since crumbs attract rodents who may nest within the site. Make sure that you pick up and carry out all of your trash and garbage. Human waste left at archeological sites is unsightly and unsanitary. Utilize restrooms before you visit. Remember that your descendants will also surely want to learn from and enjoy these places. Contact a ranger or other law enforcement official if you find archeological sites defaced or if you witness someone removing artifacts. Call 1-800-227-7286 to report an incident. Also, do not disturb plants or animals, and do not feed wildlife. Help keep Glen Canyon wild and scenic.

The following Colorado River fishing regulations apply. Fishing is allowed with artificial lures and flies only. Fishing with all live, natural, or food bait is prohibited. The total possession limit is 2 trout per angler. Juveniles under 14 years of age may have only 1 trout in possession, unless they have a valid fishing license. Only 1 trout in possession may be over 22 inches in length. No trout between 16 and 22 inches in length may be possessed. If caught, these trout must be returned to the water alive and unharmed. Possession of live trout is prohibited. A valid Arizona state Resident fishing license and applicable Trout Stamp or Non-resident fishing license is required. Regulations are in effect on the Colorado River from the Marble Canyon (Navajo Bridge) upstream to Glen Canyon Dam and include all waters in and around Lees Ferry.

Bicycles are vehicles and can do much damage to fragile desert soils and vegetation. Help protect this special place by not riding cross-country, across slickrock, or on foot trails or closed roads. Stay on designated roads at all times. There are no areas where you may ride a bike along or from the shoreline of Lake Powell. Carrying bicycles on boats is not recommended. Overnight camping along roads within Glen Canyon National Recreation Area is permitted. You may also hike away from roads to camp without your bike. Carry a lock to secure your bike on the road. Riding or pushing your bike off road is not allowed. Remember always to carry all of your trash back out with you. Carry plenty of water – a minimum of 1 gallon (4 liters) per person per day. You should also have a repair kit, extra tire tube and pump, and a first aid kit. Be prepared for temperature extremes and sudden storms. Carry raingear and polypropylene or wool for strong winds. In summer, ride early or late in the day to avoid the intense midday heat. Always wear a helmet and gloves for safety. Terrain here can be extremely rugged. Watch out for other cyclists and vehicles. Use extreme caution on steep descents. Frequent snacking on easily digested, high-energy foods is much better than eating two or three large meals a day. Some good choices might be fruit, breads, granola bars, fruit and nut mixtures, and similar items.

Persons traveling the Hole-in-the-Rock Road should carry plenty of water (at least one gallon–4 liters–per person per day) and be equipped to get themselves out of any difficulty they might encounter. This road is not routinely patrolled by any agency. Temperatures can range over 100° F (38°C) in summer to near 0° F (-17°C) in winter. Sudden heavy rains, especially in summer months may make this road impassable. If you are caught near the end of the road during a heavy storm, you may not be able to make it back to the paved highway, even with a four-wheel drive. Check with the Interagency Visitor Center in Escalante for latest road conditions and travel information.

Current Weather

While not frequently seen, scorpions and rattlesnakes are present. The best precautions against an unpleasant experience are to avoid reaching into piles of leaves or under logs or rocks and to check your boots and pack before putting them on each morning. See Wildlife Precautions page for further information.

Avoid feeding wildlife, for human food is harmful to wild animals

Entrance fee per vehicle (all passengers–note fee does NOT include ferry charges) is $10.00 for 7 days. Pedestrian fees are $5.00 for 7 days. Annual Entrance fee is $20.00.

Boating (first motorized vessel) fees are $16.00 for 7 days. Boating (each additional motorized vessel) fees are $8.00 for 7 days. Annual boating fee is $30.00 for motorized vessel.

Recreation River Use fees are $2.00 a day.

Camping fees range from free to $18.00 per night

There are several camping areas from which to choose. Camping is limited to 14 consecutive days. Fires are to be in provided fireplaces or portable fire pans only. No ground fires are allowed. Ground fires can easily become wildfires, and ashes are a major source of damage to beach soils. If portable fire pans are used, all burned charcoal must be carried out. Camping in the Orange Cliffs north of Clearwater Canyon is by permit only. Requests are handled by Canyonlands National Park and will be accepted only by mail or fax. For further information, call 801-259-7164 or 4351.

Bullfrog Developed Campground is open all year. (435-684-3000) it is a large campground with picnic tables, grills, centrally located bathrooms in each loop, and water. No reservations are taken. Approximately 78 sites can accommodate tents, campers, and small to medium length RV’s. Fee is $18 per night.

Bullfrog Primitive Camping Areas are open all year. (435-684-7400) primitive camping is normally available at Stanton Creek, Bullfrog North, and Bullfrog South. However, due to low water levels, Bullfrog North and South are closed until further notices. There are no facilities except for pit toilets. Fee is $6 per vehicle per night. Shoreline camping is available, but there are no sites, as such, but a large vehicle-accessible shoreline area where camping is permitted. No reservations are required. NOTE: The roads into Stanton Creek may be very sandy and rough in places. They may not be suitable for low-clearance vehicles and/or longer trailers or RV’s.

Bullfrog RV Campground is open all year. (435-684-3000) it is an RV campground with full hookups and accommodates most sizes of vehicles. There are approximately 24 sites. Reservations are possible. Fees vary.

Halls Crossing Developed Campground is open year round. (435-684-7000) there are picnic tables, grills, centrally located bathrooms in each loop and approximately 64 sites. Fee is $18 per night. No reservations taken.

Halls Crossing RV Park is open all year. (435-684-7000) This RV campground has with full hookups and accommodates most sizes of vehicles. There are approximately 32 sites. Fees vary. Reservations are accepted.

Hite Camping is open all year. (435-684-7400) several primitive camping areas exist at Hite. Camping is permitted near the launch ramp, in Farley Canyon, and along the Dirty Devil near Highway 95. All these areas have toilets only. No reservations taken. The fee is $6 per vehicle per night. Campers camping more than 200 yards from existing toilet facilities must have a portable toilet. Camping is also available at White Canyon and Blue Notch Canyon. No facilities, no fees there. Portable toilets are required.

Lake Powell Shoreline Camping is open all year. (928-608-6404) Camping is allowed anywhere along the lake shore outside the developed areas. There is no fee. There are no facilities. Campers must have a portable toilet or toilet facilities on their vessel. The amount of camping is dependent on the lake level. On average, Lake Powell has 1960 miles of shoreline. Approximately 150 miles of this is camp-able at any given time.

Lees Ferry Campground is open all year. (928-355-2319) it offers primitive camping, with only toilets available. No hookups, no reservations. There are approximately 30 sites and the fee is $10 per night. It can accommodate vehicles up to approximately 35 feet. It may be full on weekends and holidays. The next available camping is about 50 miles away.

Lone Rock Beach is open year round. (928-608-6404) Lone Rock Beach is a primitive camping area at the south end of the lake near Wahweap. There are no facilities except for vault toilets. You can drive your RV or vehicle right up to the shoreline and camp against the water if you choose. When camping more than 200 yards from toilet facilities, campers must have their own portable toilet or self-contained toilet facilities. The fee is $6 per vehicle per night.

Wahweap Campground is open all year. (928-645-2433) It is a large campground with picnic tables, grills, centrally located bathrooms in each loop, and water. No reservations are taken. There is one group site, reservations are available. Fee is $18 per night.

Wahweap RV Park is open all year. (928-645-2433) It is an RV Park with full hook-ups. Reservations are possible. Fees vary.

Bryce Canyon National Park is 220 miles away. Capitol Reef National Park is 102 miles away. Grand Canyon National Park is 240 miles away. Canyonlands National Park is 180 miles away. Zion National Park is 120 miles away. Other nearby places to visit are Arches National Park, Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, Vermillion Cliffs National Monument, Canyons of the Ancients National Monument, Navajo Indian Reservation, Havasupai Indian Reservation, Kaibab Indian Reservation, Hopi Indian Reservation, Ute Mountain Indian Reservation, Canyon Rims B.L.M. Recreational Area, Kaibab National Forest, Dixie National Forest, Manti-La Sal National Forest, and Fishlake National Forest.

The City of Page is served by a commercial commuter airline. Charter flights are available from Page and Salt Lake City to other areas on the lake. Bullfrog, Hite and Escalante all have landing strips. Cal Black Memorial Airport is located approximately 10 miles (16km) from Halls Crossing.

To drive there, Lees Ferry and the Navajo Bridge Interpretive Center are located on Arizona Highway 89A. Carl Hayden Visitor Center in Page, AZ is on Highway 89. The Bullfrog Visitor Center is located on Utah Highway 276. Halls Crossing is also reached by Highway 276. Hite is located just off Utah Highway 95.

No public transportation serves Glen Canyon NRA. The primary form of transportation within the park is by boat. Except for Lakeshore Drive in Wahweap, there is virtually no hard-surfaced road which offers access to or view of the lake outside the developed marinas. In-park shuttle services are available at Wahweap, Bullfrog, Halls Crossing, and Hite.

Approximate Mileage from the following major cities to Glen Canyon Recreational Area:

By Car:

Bullhead City, AZ – 316.44 miles

Phoenix, AZ – 279.30 miles

Flaggstaff, AZ – 135.24 miles

Moab, UT – 276 60 miles

Salt Lake City, UT – 384.33 miles

Escalante, UT – 191.52 miles

Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, P.O. Box 1507, Page, AZ 86040-1507

Carl Hayden Visitor Center 928-608-6404

Headquarters 928-608-620

Bullfrog Visitor Center 435-684-7400

Lees Ferry Ranger Station 928-355-2234

By Fax 928-608-6283

Map

 

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