Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve page 2

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The Park is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. The main visitor center is open all year. Memorial Day to Labor Day 9 am to 7 pm; fall and spring variable; generally 9am to 5pm. November through February it’s open 9am to 4:30pm. It is closed Christmas Day and New Year’s Day. The visitor center has a 15 minute video, exhibits, and bookstore. Interpretive programs begin here in the summer months. About 300,000 visitors come to the park annually, and most visit during the warmer summer months. Over 33,000 acres of Great Sand Dunes National Park and most of Great Sand Dunes National Preserve is legislated wilderness.

Significant winter snowfall usually makes the area difficult to access from November through April, except by back-country skiing or snowshoes. Four wheel drive access in summer from the west is by the Medano Pass Primitive Road, which leaves from just north of the Visitor Center. Four-wheel drive, high clearance vehicles are required for this road. Note the Medano Pass Primitive Road is closed by snow in the winter months–contact the Visitor Center for road conditions at (719) 378-6399.

Human beings have known about, visited, or lived near the Great Sand Dunes for a long, long time. The oldest evidence of humans in the area dates back about 11,000 years. Some of the first people to enter the San Luis Valley and the Great Sand Dunes were nomadic hunters and gatherers whose connection to the area centered around the herds of mammoths and prehistoric bison that grazed nearby. They were Stone Age people who hunted with large stone spear or dart points now identified as Clovis and Folsom points. Like nearly everyone else until about 400 years ago, they walked into the San Luis Valley, apparently spending time here when hunting and plant gathering was good, and avoiding the region during times of drought and scarcity.

Although we don’t know the names or the languages of those earliest people, modern American Indian tribes were familiar with the area when Spaniards first arrived about 400 years ago. The traditional Ute word for the Great Sand Dunes is sowapophe-uvehe, “The land that moves back and forth.” Jicarilla Apaches settled in northern New Mexico and called the Dunes ei-anyedi, “it goes up and down,” Blanca Peak, just southeast of the Dunes, is one of the four sacred mountains of the Navajo. What was-and is-the connection for these people?

For the Jicarilla Apache and southern Ute tribes, it is a practical matter: they camped and hunted in the San Luis Valley. While they were here at the Dunes, they collected the inner layers of bark from ponderosa pine trees, useful to them as food and medicine. For the people from Tewa/Tiwa-speaking pueblos along the Rio Grande, it is a spiritual link. They remember a traditional site of great importance located in the San Luis Valley near the Dunes: the lake through which their people emerged into the present world.

“This was one of the places that the Utes used to gather…the Capulta band were the ones that used to camp in this area. Neighboring families would come here and camp with them—this was maybe early in the spring or late in the fall. The Utes used to use the bark from the ponderosa pine for medicinal purposes, and also for food sources…they would cut the bottom, pulling it apart. That’s the way they harvested. The younger kids would help, to a certain age, but basically it was all the women that did the harvesting of the trees, and they’re the ones that picked the trees out…” Alden Narango, Southern Ute tribal historian

In 1694, Don Diego de Vargas became the first European known to have entered the San Luis Valley, although herders and hunters from the Spanish colonies in present-day northern New Mexico probably entered the Valley as early as 1598. De Bargas and his men saw and hunted a herd of 500 bison, apparently in the southern part of the Valley, before returning to Santa Fe.

According to legend, the Sangre de Cristo mountains were named at San Luis Lakes by a Spanish priest wounded in battle. At sunset he lay dying on a raft in the middle of San Luis Lake, and the mountains were bathed in crimson light. The priest exclaimed, “Sangre de Cristo!” (Blood of Christ), allegedly naming the mountain range.

In 1776, Juan Bautista de Anza and a huge entourage of men and livestock probably passed near the Dunes as they returned from a punitive raid against a group of Comanche. At this time, the San Luis Valley was a travel route between the High Plains and Santa Fe for Comanches, Utes, and Spanish soldiers. For some of them, the Dunes were likely a visible landmark along the trail.

The first known writings about the Dunes appear in Zebulon Pike’s journals of 1807. As Lewis and Clark’s expedition was returning east, U.S. Army Lt. Pike was commissioned to explore as far west as the Arkansas and Red Rivers. By the end of November 1806, Pike and his men had reached the site of today’s Pueblo, Colorado. Still pushing southwest, and confused about the location of the Arkansas River, Pike crossed the Sangre de Cristo Mountains just above the Great Sand Dunes. His journal from January 28th, 1807, reads:
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“After marching some miles, we discovered…at the foot of the White Mountains [today's Sangre de Cristos] which we were then descending, sandy hills…When we encamped, I ascended one of the largest hills of sand, and with my glass could discover a large river [the Rio Grande]…The Sand-hills extended up and down the foot of the White Mountains about 15 miles, and appeared to be about 5 miles in width. Their appearance was exactly that of a sea in storm, except as to color, not the least sign of vegetation existing thereon.”

1n 1848, John C. Freemont was hired to find a railroad route from St. Louis to California. He crossed the Sangre de Cristos in the San Luis Valley in winter, courting disaster but proving that a winter crossing of this range was possible. He was followed in 1853 by Captain John Gunnison of the U.S. Topographical Survey. Gunnison’s party crossed the dune field on horseback: “Touring the southern base of the sand-hills, over the lowest of which we rode for a short distance, our horses half burying their hoofs only on the windward slopes, but sinking to their knees on the opposite, we for some distance followed the bed of the stream from the pass, now sunk in the sand, and then struck off across the sandy plain…The sand was so heavy that we were six hours and a half making ten miles…”

In the years that followed, the Rockies were gradually explored, treaties were signed and broken with resident tribes, and people with widely differing goals flooded into Colorado from the United States and Mexico. In 1852, Fort Massachusetts was built and then relocated to Fort Garland, about 20 miles southeast of the Great Sand Dunes, to safeguard travel or settlers following the explorers into the San Luis Valley.

Although many settlers arrived in the San Luis Valley via the trails from Santa Fe or La Veta Pass, several routes over the Sangre de Cristo Mountains into the San Luis Valley were well-known to American Indians and increasingly used by settlers in the 1800s. Medano Pass, also known as Sand Hill pass, and Mosca Pass, also called Robidoux’s Pass, offered more direct routes form the growing front-range cities and dropped into the San Luis Valley just east of the Great Sand Dunes. Trails were improved into wagon routes and eventually into rough roads. The Mosca Pass Toll Road was developed in the 1870s, and stages and the mail route used it regularly through about 1911. That year, the western portion was badly damaged in a flash flood. Partially rebuilt at times in the 1930s through the 1950s, it has been repeatedly closed by flooding and is now a trail for hikers.

Gold and silver rushes occurred around the Rockies after 1853, bringing miners by the thousands into the state and stimulating mining businesses that operate to this day. Numerous small strikes occurred in the mountains around the San Luis Valley. People had frequently speculated that gold might be present in the Great Sand Dunes, and in the 1920s, local newspapers ran articles estimating its worth at anywhere from 17 cents/ton to $3/ton. Active placer mining operations sprang up along Medano Creek, and in 1932 the Volcanic Mining Company established a gold mill designed to recover gold from the sand. Although minute quantities of gold were recovered, the technique was too labor-intensive, the stream was too seasonal, and the payout was too small to support any business for long.

The idea that the Dunes could be destroyed by gold mining or concrete-making alarmed residents of Alamosa and Monte Vista. By the 1920s, the Dunes had become a source of pride for local people and a potential source of tourist dollars for local businesses. Members of the Ladies PEO sponsored a bill to Congress asking for national monument status for the Great Sand Dunes. Widely supported by local businesses and Chambers of Commerce, the bill was signed into law in 1932 by President Herbert Hoover.

Formerly managed by the US Forest Service as part of Rio Grande National Forest, the preserve was established as part of the Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve Act of 2000. The preserve is also part of the Sangre de Cristo Wilderness Area, and offers superb wilderness adventure opportunities for backcountry hiking and camping in the summer months.This geologic wonderland, containing over 30 square miles of massive dunes, became a national monument in 1932. About 300,000 visitors come to the park annually, and most visit during the warmer summer months.

Thirty-four miles away by car in Alamosa, prevailing winds are from the southwest throughout the year. This wind pattern continues to the southwest corner of the dune field.

Over the years, sand and small dunes migrate in this southwestern, unimodal wind pattern toward the main dune field. Close to the dune field, however, wind patterns change. It is not uncommon for winds to emerge from any of the three mountain passes—Music, Medano and Mosca—any time of the year. The dune field’s bimodal and complex wind regime contribute to two distinctive dune types: reversing and star dunes.

Star dunes are oriented in many directions, which indicate the occurrence of a complex wind regime. By studying a dune’s physical features, even beginning students of dune science can determine general year-to-year wind dynamics. Where star dunes are present, an area’s wind regime is quite complex; for star dunes form only in places where wind blows from varied directions over the course of a year. At Great Sand Dunes, a large star dune complex occurs in the northeast corner of the dune field. Star dunes can also form in bimodal wind areas such as are found in the Central Dune field. A bimodal wind regime is apparent in the southern region of the dune field by the existence of the north-south trending Medano Creek dune ridges.

During much of the year wind blows from the southwest toward the Sangre de Cristo Mountains in the northeast. When the angle of repose is exceeded by the dune, a sand avalanche occurs on the lee side of the dune. It is common for winds to come from the opposite direction. This greatly alters the dune morphology. One reason the Great Sand Dunes reach such great heights is due to reversing winds. Reversing dunes grow atop themselves rather than moving forward across the landscape. A surface feature created on the crests of reversing dunes is a Chinese wall.

Much of the Great Sand Dunes sand sheet is covered with vegetation. If strong winds erode a section of the vegetated sand (commonly referred to as a blowout), a parabolic dune may form. Leeward motion occurs if sand from the blowout is deposited on the opposite slope of the parabolic dune. Vegetation holds the “arms” of the dune in place as the leeward “nose” of the dune migrates forward toward the main dune field. Parabolic dunes are common in the sand sheet southwest of the main dune field.

If conditions were “perfect”—the landscape was flat, winds blew from only one direction, vegetation could not grow, and sand was available but limited —barchan dunes would dominate a sandscape. Since those conditions are rarely found at Great Sand Dunes, a very complex dune system emerges. Even so, classic barchan dunes can be found at various locations throughout the park. Look for classic barchan dunes directly across from the dune’s main parking lot.

As the sand supply increases, barchan dunes begin to connect with others forming barchaniod ridges. If the ridges become fairly straight, scientists call them transverse dunes.

Barchan dunes can become aligned together along a plane perpendicular to the wind. If the line becomes somewhat straight, dune scientists refer to these forward marching ridges as transverse dunes. They progress forward as their leeward slipfaces release sand one avalanche at a time. Along the southern boundary of the dune field at Great Sand Dunes, a series of transverse dunes are fed by recycled sand transported by Medano Creek.

The main dune field grows to enormous heights not only because of a complex wind regime, but also due to sand carried by Medano and Sand Creeks. These streams seasonally carve out and carry sand from the east and north side of the dune field and re-deposit it where wind can transport it back to the dune field.

Medano Creek flows on the surface of the sand in spring and early summer because of the aquifer which supports it is “perched” atop a mostly impermeable layer of “hardpan” of caliche (calcium carbonate). During the winter the perched aquifer shrinks and surface flow disappears until spring snowmelt refills the perched aquifer and Medano Creek begins to flow on the surface again, usually in April or May. Note that the regional unconfined aquifer (water table) without Medano Creek’s perching layer is roughly 120 feet below the surface.

Great Sand Dunes National Preserve might seem like the complete opposite of the dune field. Lushly green in summer and cloaked in snow in winter, its home to sub-alpine and alpine plants and animals and is punctuated by streams and small lakes. Its 41,676 acres protect the high elevation watersheds and creeks critical to the dune field. The national preserve stretches from the eastern boundary of the old national monument to the crest of the Sangre de Cristos, from just west of Carbonate Mountain on the south side to Milwaukee Peak on the north, then south through Music Mountain, Tijeras Peak, and Cleveland Peak. Including the watersheds for Sand Creek and Medano Creek, the preserve boasts high alpine tundra and lakes, barren scree slopes, and 13,000+ foot Rocky Mountain peaks.

At Great Sand Dunes Medano Creek flows around the east and south sides of the dune mass. A unique phenomena occurs along this sandy reach of the creek during periods of high water. At regular intervals, roughly every 15 seconds, a bore (a pulse of water) passes downstream. Low amplitude underwater dunes called antidunes form as water carries sand grains from trough to crest in the same way that wind action creates sand ripples on dry land. As the height of the antidune increases, the volume of water dammed behind the antidune crest eventually becomes heavy enough to break the antidune and spill over into the next trough downstream. A chain reaction of antidune breaks occurs downstream, creating one bore of water. Subsequent bores occur as antidunes rebuild in the streambed and break once again. You may observe pulsating flow on a few other streams on Earth, but Medano and Sand Creeks are the best examples in North America.

Water and low temperatures define a life zone. The amount of water available and the lowest winter temperatures determine which plants can grow, and the plants determine which animals frequent a life zone. The snow pack of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains supplies the water for every life zone at Great Sand Dunes. Melting snow fills high cirques to form clear, cold alpine lakes full of Rio Grande cutthroat trout. The lakes spill into mountain streams whose lushly vegetated banks are marked by the work of gnawing beavers. Springtime streams carry water through the piñon-juniper woodlands and down to the dunefield, recycling sand blown into the mountains, defining the borders of the dunefield, and making possible the shady stands of aromatic cottonwoods alongside the dunes. In a good year, the water flows as far as the sand sheet before it sinks away to replenish the huge aquifer underlying the east side of the valley. This water resurfaces to form wetlands, havens for herons and tiger salamanders.

Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve encompasses a stunning diversity of life zones—journey from sand to alpine areas, all within a day’s hike! Climb from the arid sabkha and sand sheet of the valley floor, past the dunes and into piñon-juniper woodland, through shaded montane forest and finally onto the cool tundra of 13,000 foot mountain peaks to experience all the life zones.

The low-lying sabkha is a landscape of sand cemented into a fragile crust by the alkaline minerals of a high water table. Due to the high water table, moisture is plentiful (despite only seven inches of rainfall per year). But most plants won’t tolerate the harsh chemical environment. Four wing saltbush and saltgrass are among the few plants adaptable enough to thrive in this life zone.

The vast sand sheet is slightly higher than the sabkha, and far less alkaline. This life zone includes mobile sand dunes. But most of the sand is anchored by rabbitbrush, prickly pear and yucca, their deep tap roots reaching down to the water table. Sand verbena and prairie sunflower provide swathes of color in an otherwise dusky panorama.

From a distance, the dunes appear barren. But there is life on the dunes, some of it so uniquely adapted that it is found no where else in the world. Fragile looking Indian rice grass and blowout grass withstand forceful winds and blasting sands. Scurfpea roots are horizontal, ready to send up a new shoot when blowing sand covers the original plant.

At the base of the mountains, in the Piñon-Juniper Woodland, short shrubs give way to deep green woodlands. Annual precipitation in this life zone is twelve inches, a scant amount for a piñon pine or a juniper tree. In response to little moisture, the trees space themselves widely, filling the open air with their resinous scent. Screeching flocks of gregarious piñon jays collect and cache thousands of calorie-packed pine nuts. Most are eaten over the winter. But some pine nuts are forgotten, remaining in their earthy hiding places to germinate and grow into new piñon pine trees.

With rising elevation, piñon-juniper woodlands give way to taller and more dense montane forests (montane means mountain). Douglas fir trees mix with white fir, ponderosa pine and aspen. In the cool, moist shade, thick club moss cushions the ground. Breaks in the tree canopy create puddles of sun where one-sided penstemons and columbines flower. The moisture of the montane forest supports diverse plants, which in turn attract a variety of animals.

The subalpine life zone is the upper limit for trees—and only the hardiest trees survive the cooler temperatures and heavier snows of this elevation. Engelmann spruce, blue spruce, and subalpine fir, dark boughs sweeping the ground, grow in stands separated by fingers of rocky talus.

The peaks of the Sangre de Cristo mountain range top 13,000 feet. Locked in snow and ice for nine months of the year, the highest peaks are bare rock. In places, lichens have found a foothold, beginning the process of breaking down rock into soil. Where thin top soil has accumulated, moss campion and purplefringe form miniature gardens. The plants are mere inches tall, hugging the ground to avoid desiccating winds. Deceptively delicate in appearance, they withstand the crush of many inches of snow. The snow pack is welcome insulation against frigid winter temperatures, and a vital source of moisture. Summer in this life zone is a frenzied time of replenishment. Alpine plants bloom against a background of lingering spring snowdrifts, rushing to produce seeds before the short summer ends.

This is truly a four season park with plenty of outdoor vacation adventure! Winter offers solitude, natural quiet, and incredibly clear day and night skies. Days are generally sunny and chilly, and the sand may even feel warm in the intense alpine sun. But be prepared for any winter conditions at this 8200′ elevation, including blizzards and subzero temperatures at night. When snow does fall on the dunes, sledding, snowboarding or skiing are fantastic, with no trees or rocks to run into. Whether the dunes are snowy or sandy, a winter hike on the dunes can be a refreshing experience for all ages. There’s also mountaineering and climbing.

In the warmer months, you will find many outdoor adventure activities for an enjoyable family vacation. In average to wet years, the popular Medano Creek begins as a trickle in early April, increasing to a wide, shallow stream flowing in rhythmic waves at its peak in late May. Bring a swimsuit to enjoy this natural beach environment. Afternoon activities in summer can include hiking in the adjacent Sangre de Cristo Mountains. After climbing the dunes on a hot summer day, cool off at Zapata Falls, a popular 1/2 mile hike; the trailhead is 12 miles south of the Park and Preserve. South Zapata Creek has powered its way through a rock crevasse, etching and carving the steep stone walls containing the 30 ft. high waterfall. Listen to the melodic cascading waters; feel the chilling spray of the falls; and watch for dippers, dark gray aquatic song birds that feed on water insects. Creek and waterfall flow is highest in spring and early summer. During low creek flow in late summer and fall, it may be possible to scramble up the rocks in the creek bed to access the falls. Along with breathtaking views of the Great Sand Dunes, San Luis Lakes State Park, the San Juan Mountains, the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, and the San Luis Valley, Zapata Falls Day Use Area also contains mountain bike trails. While there is no overnight camping allowed in the Zapata Falls Day Use Area, backcountry camping is allowed in nearby Rio Grande National Forest. Guides to hikes and bike trails in the Zapata Falls Area and the rest of the San Luis Valley are available at the Great Sand Dunes bookstore. Consider a walk on the dunes around sunset; what better way to watch the closing of the day than from a dune ridge line? Moonlight walks on the dunes can be enchanting, and the night sky may amaze you with its brilliance!

Fall at Great Sand Dunes can mean anything from warm sun and mild fall temperatures to blizzards – sometimes in one day! Typically, however, fall days are sunny with highs in the 60′s to 70′s F. and lows in the 30′s F. Fall colors generally peak in late September to early October. Yellow aspens peak along the Medano Pass road in late September. Plan to enjoy a hike on the dunes without the crowds of summer. Go hiking on a mountain trail to enjoy the fall foliage up close. Fall hunting is permitted in the mountains of the national preserve, so wear bright orange colors and be alert. Animals hunted in the preserve are elk and deer. Hunting is not permitted anywhere in the national park, including the dunes, and grasslands and forests around the perimeter of the dunes.

Scheduled ranger programs are available most days in summer. Nightly evening programs are offered in the amphitheater from mid May through mid September. A paved, lighted, and mostly level trail leads from the campground to the amphitheater. Porch talks are offered at the Visitor Center throughout the day. There are Summer Concert Series, Special Guest Speakers, and Castles and Kites, an annual event for all ages that takes place the last Saturday in June beside Medano Creek. Sponsored by Friends of the Dunes, it features a sand-sculpture contest and kite-flying contest.

Fishing is ‘catch and release’ only in Medano Creek. Rio Grande Cutthroat, a species of special concern, has been reintroduced to this watershed. Great Sand Dunes Medano Creek flows around the east and south sides of the dune mass. A unique phenomenon occurs along this sandy reach of the creek during periods of high water. At regular intervals, roughly every 15 seconds, a bore (a pulse of water) passes downstream. Low amplitude underwater dunes called antidunes form as water carries sand grains from trough to crest in the same way that wind action creates sand ripples on dry land. As the height of the antidune increases, the volume of water dammed behind the antidune crest eventually becomes heavy enough to break the antidune and spill over into the next trough downstream. A chain reaction of antidune breaks occurs downstream, creating one bore of water. Subsequent bores occur as antidunes rebuild in the streambed and break once again. Medano and Sand Creeks are the best examples in North America of pulsating flow in a stream. Sand Creek Lakes is also popular for hiking, equestrians, bird watching, and fishing.

Boating and fishing at nearby San Luis Lakes State Park is a fantastic place to observe migratory waterfowl and a variety of wetland species. According to legend, the Sangre de Cristo Mountains were named at San Luis Lakes by a Spanish priest wounded in battle. At sunset he lay dying on a raft in the middle of San Luis Lake, and the mountains were bathed in crimson light. The priest exclaimed, “Sangre de Cristo!” (Blood of Christ), allegedly naming the mountain range.

There are several hiking trails to choose from in the park. The High Dune Trailhead starts at the Dunes Parking Lot and is rated moderately strenuous. One way distance and elevation gain is about 1 mile and about 650 feet. The “High Dune” is not the tallest in the dune field – it is about 650 feet from base to top – but it is one of the highest dunes above sea level in the dune field, and is the most accessible of the big dunes. Soft sand and steep slopes make this more strenuous that you’d expect. From the base, zigzag up the dune ridge lines. Hike before noon in summer to avoid extremely hot sand and sun. You’ll gain terrific views of the entire dune field, the surrounding mountains, and the San Luis Valley from the top.

The Star Dune Trailhead also starts at the Dunes Parking Lot and is listed as strenuous. One way distance and elevation gain is about 4-5 miles and about 750 feet. The Star Dune is the tallest dune in North America (from base to top it is 750 feet). It can be approached from the High Dune, or from Medano Creek south of the Dunes Parking Lot. From the High Dune, the Star Dune is the very prominent high point about 1 mile to the west. To approach from the south, hike downstream from the Dunes Parking Lot about 2 miles, and then begin watching for ridges leading north. It’s about 1.25 miles to the Star Dune. Expect many false summits as you climb.

The Medano Creek Trailhead is located in the Dunes Parking Lot and is rated Easy. You can go as far as you like with minimal elevation gain. Explore Medano Creek, flowing at the base of the dunes. During dry years, the creek disappears. In years of adequate snow and rainfall, the creek flows in April, May, and June, usually peaking in late May. Observe the creek closely. Medano Creek exhibits a phenomenon called surge flow. Watch for animal tracks and signs of insect life in the damp sand–there are 6 species of insects living in the dunes which are found nowhere else on earth!

A couple of trails begin near the Visitor Center. Montville Nature Trail has it’s trailhead located 1/4 mile north of Visitor Center and is rated easy. One way distance and elevation gain is 1/2 mile and 50 feet. Take along a trail guide and learn a little natural and human history of the area. The trail gets its name from a late 1800s settlement at the foot of nearby Mosca Pass, consisting of 20 houses in its heyday. Wellington Ditch Trail is also located ¼ mile north of the Visitor Center and is rated easy. One way distance and elevation gain is 1 mile and 50 feet. Beginning at the Montville Trailhead, take the nature trail to the north (left) and intersect the Wellington Ditch Trail, which follows the route of an irrigation ditch dug by the Wellingtons early in the 1900s. The hiking trail is mostly level and provides outstanding views of the dunes; it ends at the campground. Mosca Pass Trail trailhead is located ¼ mile north of the Visitor Center at Montville, but is listed as moderately strenuous. One way distance and elevation gain is 3 miles and about 1500 feet. The trail leaves the national park and enters the national preserve almost immediately as it follows the route of an old wagon road through a deep canyon filled with aspens and conifers. It continues through a series of open meadows ringed by forest rising to Mosca Pass. The trail ends at Mosca Pass, where it meets US Forest Road #583.

There are several options for all day or over night backpacking within the national park and the national preserve. Be aware that many of the trailheads into the national preserve are accessed from Highway 69, on the east side of the Sangre de Cristos. Hiking into the dune field and finding your own campsite under one of the darkest skies in the United States is a great experience. The Sand Ramp Trail is a trail that skirts the east and north sides of the dune field for 11 miles, starting at Piñon Flats campground and ending at Sand Creek Camp, on the north side of the dunes. Carbonate Peak and Revelation Point Routes have no established trails and is about 4 miles one way with a 4200’ elevation gain. It is difficult and strenuous. The rounded bald peak visible directly east of the Great Sand Dunes National Park Visitor Center is the shoulder of 12,200’ Carbonate Peak. The slightly lower grassy knoll to the north of Carbonate Peak is locally known as Revelation Point or Little Baldy, and offers tremendous views of the dune field and the valley floor. This hike is not for beginners; excellent fitness is required. Check with the visitor center for specific tips for this hike. Music Pass, Medano Pass, and Mosca Pass trailheads are accessed via USFS roads from Highway 69, south of Westcliffe, Colorado, and are just a few more challenging trails to try out on your adventure travel.

A sand wheel chair may be borrowed at the Visitor Center to see the dunes. Two wheelchairs especially designed for over-sand travel are available for loan at the Visitor Center. Although a helper is required to push the chair, large inflatable tires make short trips across the sand possible and fun! Please note: the chair is not suitable for very large adults, and should be borrowed only by those who need a chair for access.

Wildlife watching is a popular past time at Great Sand Dunes. During the day, watch for coyotes, mule deer, pronghorn, ground squirrels, and chipmunks. At night, wander the dunes in search of giant sand treader camel crickets or kangaroo rats. Golden and bald eagles, ravens, and magpies have recently been spotted in the park, so there is something for the bird watching enthusiasts. In fall, winter, and spring, watch for elk along the entrance road. No need to worry about poisonous snakes and scorpions-they are not found in these high-elevation dunes.

Consider a walk on the dunes around sunset; what better way to watch the closing of the day than from a dune ridge line? Moonlight walks on the dunes can be enchanting, and the night sky may amaze you with its brilliance! No need to worry about poisonous snakes and scorpions-they are not found in these high-elevation dunes. However, be sure you stay oriented and can find your way back to your vehicle when you’re ready.

If you have a high-clearance 4WD vehicle, consider the primitive road to Medano Pass, 11 miles from the Visitor Center. For non-hikers, this is the best way to access the Great Sand Dunes National Preserve. The drive is most spectacular during fall when the aspens paint the mountainsides with gold, but is lovely any time of year. The Medano Pass Road is most difficult on the west side (dunes’ side) where the sand entraps a vehicle on occasion. Use 4-wheel drive ‘low’ and keep steady pressure on the gas pedal to avoid bogging down in sandy areas; vehicles must have high clearance to maneuver this road. This route is not recommended for small sport utility vehicles (e.g., Subaru Forester or Outback, Toyota Rav-4, etc.). Creek crossings can be hazardous in spring, and the road is closed by winter conditions from approximately December through April. Elevation at the Pass is 10,000 feet above sea level. Don’t expect to be anywhere fast; driving is generally in the 5-10 mph range. If you don’t have access to 4-wheel drive, consider an outing with our concessionaire, The Oasis, which offers a 4-wheel drive tour. Tours are available during the summer months only; call 719-378-2222 for more information.

The purpose of Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve is to: preserve spectacular and unique sand dunes and their high elevation watersheds and to perpetuate the entire system for the benefit and enjoyment of present and future generations; provide long-term protection of the geological, hydrological, ecological, scenic, scientific, cultural, wilderness, educational, wildlife, and recreational resources of the area, including the sand deposits associated with the dune mass and the ground water system on which the sand dune and wetland systems depend, and the remarkable biodiversity evident in the landscape from the valley floor to the mountain crest; provide opportunities for visitors to experience, understand, enjoy, and gain a sense of stewardship for the park’s natural and cultural resources; and facilitate research to support park management, and to promote scientific knowledge and education.

Winter days are generally sunny and chilly, and the sand may even feel warm in the intense alpine sun. But be prepared for any winter conditions at this 8200′ elevation, including blizzards and subzero temperatures at night. Fall is generally mild, with Indian summer days. Highs average in the 60s – 70s F, with chilly nights in the 20s – 30s F. Be prepared, though, for the occasional cold fall storm, bringing icy rain or even snow associated with high winds. Bring warm, layered clothing, rain or snow gear and sturdy footwear.

Spring at Great Sand Dunes can mean anything from warm sun and mild spring temperatures to chilly winds or blizzards – sometimes in one day! Have clothing available for a warm, calm day splashing in the water, but also for snowy or windy conditions if needed. Spring is windy season at Great Sand Dunes. March, April, and May winds are unstable and can be unusually strong. Generally afternoons are the windiest, so plan to hike on the dunes in morning when possible.

The Great Sand Dunes receive an average annual precipitation of 11 inches including an average snowfall of 37 inches. In fall, winter, and spring, expect moderate daytime temperatures and freezing to sub-zero temperatures at night. Summer temperatures during the day average 70 to 80 degrees; lows may drop to 40 degrees. Even in summer, warm layered clothing is recommended, as lows may drop into the 40s. After dark, a warm coat or a blanket are necessities. Afternoon thundershowers are common in July and August with associated winds and lightning. Be prepared to leave the dunes promptly if thunderstorms threaten: lightning strikes are common and may be fatal. Plan to hike on the dunes in morning or evening to avoid these storms, and to avoid the hot mid-day sand surface. Sand temperatures can reach 140 degrees in summer; shoes are highly recommended for hiking the dunes.

Current Park Weather

The Visitor Center and Campground areas are about 8200 feet above sea level. Altitude sickness is common. Many people experience headaches, dehydration, fatigue, sleeplessness, rapid heartbeat, and shortness of breath at this altitude. Drink plenty of liquids, avoid alcohol and caffeine, and move slowly until your body acclimates.

For a few weeks each mid-summer, tiny piñon flies cluster around campers and hikers, attracted to the carbon dioxide exhaled by humans. While often annoying, they do not bite. In wet years mosquitoes and biting gnats (“no-see-ums”) are common from roughly mid June to early August. Ticks are common in April, May and June in the forest and shrub land surrounding the dunes. There are no ticks in the dunes.

Hypothermia is a dangerous condition of untreated low body temperature. It occurs when your body loses warmth more quickly than it can produce it. Cold winds and wet conditions make hypothermia more likely. Always take extra layers of clothing, try to stay dry, eat high energy snacks, and watch your companions for signs of coldness. Symptoms include uncontrollable shivering, numbness, poor coordination, irrational behavior or confusion.

There are no trails for backcountry backpacking. You’ll be navigating by sight, map, and compass. Be prepared! Try to avoid camping on patches of vegetation. They are fragile and critical habitat for the insects and animals which live on the dunes. Practice the Leave-No-Trace rules and minimum impact camping and hiking techniques. Pack out everything you bring with you, including your trash and toilet paper. Do not trench around your tent. It destroys roots and soil networks. Camp at least 200 feet from any source of water and at least 100 feet from the trail. Purify all water taken from natural sources.

As with any wilderness areas, use a backpacking checklist similar to this: take backpack, maps, water, sun protection, sunglasses, wide brimmed hat, insect repellent, food, first aid kit, tent, sleeping bag, sleeping mat, backpack, good hiking boots, compass, GPS system, flashlight with extra batteries and bulb, water treatment pills/filter (remember that water may be scarce), campstove, fuel, fire starter, appropriate clothing and layers for the season, whistle and /or a signal mirror. Make sure someone at home knows where you’re going and when you’ll be back. Instruct your contact to call the area-wide dispatch at (719) 589-5807 if you don’t return as planned.

The following campground rules apply. Tents must be pitched within the rock wall boundaries of each site. Please use tent pads where provided. Do not trench or dig in your site. Vehicles must be parked on pavement with a limit of two per site. Please contact the campground hosts if you have you have more than two vehicles for alternate parking. Fires are permitted, but gathering wood is illegal. Please bring your own wood, or purchase firewood at the campground store, open summer evenings near site #45, or in the visitor center the rest of the year. Trash should be taken to the dumpster located near the amphitheater. To protect yourself, your property, and the park’s bears, do not leave it in your site. Quiet hours are from 10 pm to 6 am. Please be courteous. Check out time is 1 pm.

Horseback riding and camping with horses or pack animals is permitted in most of the national park and national preserve, with some exceptions in the developed areas. Horses, mules, burros, donkeys or asses, and llamas are all considered pack animals. For suggestions on where to ride, areas open to camping with horses, and other related information, please call the Great Sand Dunes National Park Visitor Center at (719) 378-6399.

Hunting season each fall requires extra care when hiking or horseback riding in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, including Great Sand Dunes National Preserve. Please call the Visitor Center at 719-378-6399 for current hunting seasons and travel tips.

At the Zapata Falls, use the following precautions. The rushing water is cold and the rocks can be slippery, so use good judgment as to whether or not you are up to the challenge. Air temperatures inside the alcove can be cool, so bring a jacket, even in summer. Wear sturdy shoes with good traction.

Digging deep holes anywhere in the sand can be dangerous, thanks to sand’s potential to collapse. If you’ve ever been buried at the beach by “friends”, you know how impossible it can be for someone trapped in a collapsed hole to escape without help. Parents, make sure your kids don’t dig more than about 18″ down, and never dig deep holes or caves into the base of steep dunes.

Remember, the dunes are where they are because of the wind! Wind-blown sand can be painful and dangerous. Plan to hike the dunes in morning or evening hours when it’s more likely to be calm and cool, and check the forecast if you are heading into the backcountry. Afternoons are frequently windy and can be uncomfortable time on the sand.

Wildlife sightings are common. Recent observations include mule deer, elk, coyotes, golden and bald eagles, ravens, magpies, and, just outside park boundaries, bison. The Alpine tundra areas contain Bighorn sheep, Rocky Mountain elk, pikas and marmots. In the shady ancient forests you may see Pine martens, squirrels, black bears, mule deer, snowshoe hares, mountain lions, and bobcats. In the high dunes with the drastic fluctuating temperatures, only one mammal can survive its entire life there and that is the Kangaroo Rat. At the western end of the dunes lie the desert grasslands. Here you will find Pronghorns, badgers, weasels, prairie dogs, elk and black-tailed jackrabbits. The wetlands have large shore birds, beavers, bison, elk and the water shrew.

There are several bird species to watch for as you explore the park and preserve. Pied-billed Grebe, Red-necked Grebe, American White Pelican, Great Blue Heron, Snowy Egret, White-faced Ibis, Snow Goose, American Wigeon, Northern Shoveler, Ring-necked Duck, Common Goldeneye, Osprey, Northern Harrier, Bald Eagle, Golden Eagle, Peregrine Falcon, White-tailed Ptarmigan, Sandhill Crane, Snowy Plover, American Avocet, Spotted Sandpiper, Long-billed Dowitcher, Rock Dove, Flammulated Owl, Western Screech-Owl, Northern Pygmy-Owl, Common Nighthawk, White-throated Swift, Black-chinned Hummingbird, Rufous Hummingbird, Belted Kingfisher, Lewis’ Woodpecker, and American Three-toed Woodpecker are just a few of the species to be found in this diverse area.

Deer and elk are commonly seen in the park and on park roads, and bison are often seen on roads near the park. Drive slowly and be prepared to stop, especially at night, to avoid hitting one of these animals. Mule deer and elk frequently cross the road in winter. Check out our Wildlife Precautions page.

Do not feed wildlife. All animals within the park, including birds, are protected by law. Feeding wildlife is dangerous for you and unhealthy for them.
Bears frequent the area! While in backcountry, hang your food, trash, and toiletries at least 10’ above the ground and 4’ horizontally from the tree trunk, or use bear proof containers. Secure your food, trash, and toiletries whenever it is not in use. See the Wildlife Precautions page for more information on animal encounters.

The entrance fees are for persons 17 and older and per person-$3 – 7 Days;
$15 – Annual. Great Sand Dunes Annual Pass is good for the holder and everyone in the same car for entry to Great Sand Dunes for one year from the month of purchase.

Camping fees are $14 – Day. There is a 6 person / 2 vehicle limit per site.

Pinyon Flats campground is open year-round, and has 88 campsites available on a first-come, first-served basis. Fire grates, picnic tables, flush toilets and drinking water are available. It has accessible restrooms and running water. Many have RV campsites can accommodate RVs up to 32 feet in length. However, there are no electrical, sewer, or water hookups. Drivers with RVs longer than 32′ will find it difficult to turn corners. The RV dump station closes when freezing temperatures occur regularly, usually late September through mid May. In warmer spring months, the campground often fills on weekends. Group sites for groups of 12 to 75 are available, as space permits, by reservation: (719) 378-6399. Individual sites are $14 per night. Group camping costs $3/person/night. Pets are welcome in the campground. Please keep them leashed and under control at all times and clean up after them. Remember your pet’s feet are sensitive to burns, too. Avoid hiking with your pet on the dunes during the hottest parts of the day. Pets succumb faster to heat than humans; sand is hot and shade is scarce. Never leave a pet in a car on a summer day; temperatures can reach 100+ degrees within minutes.
The campground is located in pinion/juniper forest and has excellent views of the dunes and the Sangre de Christo Mountains. Winter low temperatures average between 0 and 13 degrees F. Fire wood can be purchased in the visitor center, open daily 8:30 am to 4:340 pm or please bring your own wood. Black bears are common visitors in the campground area. Safeguard yourselves and the bears by storing all food and aromatic cosmetics in the trunk of your cars when you’re not eating or in bear-proof containers. If your vehicle lacks a trunk, store the food inside the body of the car and keep it hidden from sight. Try to minimize food odors in your site and vehicle. Do not leave food, coolers, or trash in unattended sites.

Very few gas, food, or lodging facilities are open nearby. All services are available year-round in Alamosa; shops in Blanca, Mosca, and Hooper may not be open every day.

Car camping in the backcountry is available without a permit along the Medano Pass road, in the Great Sand Dunes National Preserve, as long as existing campsites are used and no vegetation is damaged. This road is passable only with a high-clearance 4WD vehicle (ATVs are not permitted), as the road is soft sand in the national park, and rocky with stream crossings in the national preserve. Heavy spring runoff can cause creek crossings on the road to reach over two feet. During dry periods, the sand may become soft enough to require dropping air pressure by 15 pounds from each tire. Call the Visitor Center at (719) 378-6399 for current road conditions and seasonal closures. You must be in the national preserve, not in the national park. The boundary is marked and is located 5.2 miles from the west end of the road and 6.1 miles from the east end of the road. Please use existing fire rings, and collect only dead and down wood less than 4″ in diameter. Your vehicle must be parked within 100 feet of the road.

Backpacking sites are available by free permits obtained at the Visitor Center. You may either camp in the backcountry of the dune field, or at a designated site at the perimeter of the dune field. You must hike beyond the highest crest of the most easterly ridge of dunes in order to go beyond the day use area, and choose a spot out of site of the road, parking areas, and Visitor Center. Slightly more sheltered from wind and lightning than the open dunes, these sites tend to have excellent views and some shade, but some are more than 1 mile from a source of water. No fires are permitted; you must use a stove instead.

There are 6 designated back-country campsites along the Sand Ramp Trail. Escape Dunes is 2.4 miles from Piñon Flats campground. The campsite is in an open grove of ponderosa pines. Indian Grove is 3.9 miles from Piñon Flats campground. Nearby is a grove of ponderosa pines where trees were peeled by Ute and Jicarilla Apache people. The bark and cambium layers were used for shelter and medicine. Little Medano is 4.9 miles from Piñon Flats campground. Little Medano Creek is a good close water source. Aspen is 6.7 miles from Piñon Flats campground. This is the highest and coldest of the back country sites, sitting at an elevation of 9,240 feet above sea level. There are incredible views. Cold Creek is 9.9 miles from Piñon Flats campground. The site is located in a rugged valley filled with ponderosa pines. Sand Creek is 11.5 miles from Piñon Flats campground. Situated in a grove of cottonwood trees on the very edge of the dune mass, this is a site worth hiking for!

San Luis Lakes State Park, Rio Grande National Forest, Sangre de Cristo Wilderness Area, Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument, Mesa Verde National Park, Rocky Mountain National Park, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, and Curecanti National Recreation Area are all within 150 miles of the park.

Limited air service is available to Alamosa, Colorado. Airports in Colorado Springs, Denver, and Albuquerque are all within 4 hours drive.

Great Sand Dunes National Monument is located 35 miles northeast of Alamosa, Colorado, reached by US Highway 160 and Colorado Highway 150 from the south or from Colorado Highway 17 and County Six Mile Lane from the west.

Greyhound Bus Lines serve Alamosa and Blanca, CO, but do not enter the park.

Getting around the park is by foot, bicycle, or personal vehicle. Please note: bicycles are not permitted on trails.

Approximate Mileage from the following major cities to Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve:

By Car:

Colorado Springs, CO – 146.36 miles

Denver, CO – 240.80 miles

Pueblo, CO – 103.30 miles

Alamosa, CO – 34.56 miles

Blanca, Co – 25.63 miles

Albuquerque, NM – 236.70 miles

Ulysses, KS – 306.38 miles

Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve, 11500 Highway 150,
Mosca, CO 81146-9798
- or -
Visitor Center, 11999 Highway 150, Mosca, CO 81146
Main 719-378-6300
Visitor Center 719-378-6399

Map

 

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