Great Basin National Park page 2

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The park is open daily, 8:00 to 4:30 Pacific Time, with extended hours in the summer. It’s closed Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day, and New Years Day. Lehman Cave tours are offered daily year-round. In the winter, the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive is only open to the Upper Lehman Creek Campground and Lehman Creek Trailhead. Opening dates of the higher portions of the road depend on weather. The road usually opens for the summer season starting in May, June or early July. It usually closes by late October or November.

Great Basin National Park encompasses 77,180 acres and entertains 80,000 visitors a year. It was established in 1986.

The Great Basin region has been occupied for over 12,000 years. The first cultural group to occupy the area was what archeologists call the Paleo-Indians. They were in this area from about 12,000 to 9,000 years ago. They are considered to have been big game hunters; their prey were animals such as bison and the extinct mammoth and ground-sloth. They did not have permanent houses because they were following animal herds. Their hunting tools were large fluted or unfluted projectile points lashed to the tip of a spear.

The Great Basin Desert Archaic was the next cultural group to occupy this region. They were here from about 9,000 to 1,500 years ago. These groups of people are considered hunter-gatherers that followed game animals such as the Mule deer and antelope. They also gathered wild plants such as onions, Great Basin wild rye and pinyon pine nuts. These cultural groups used grinding stones to process plant seeds. They also made baskets, mats, hats, and sandals from plant fibers and used animal hides to make their cloth, blankets and mocassins. Marine shell beads are also associated with this cultural period, indicating trade with coastal peoples. Spears were still used for hunting large game, but the projectile points were smaller and what archeologists call stemmed, side-notched, and corner-notched points.

The Fremont lived in the area from about 1,500 to 700 years ago. They were a horticultural group that planted corn and squash but still harvested wild plants and hunted. They built small villages, including one near present-day Baker now known as the Baker Archeological Site, and produced pottery. With one style of pottery they painted black geometric designs. This type of pottery is known as black-on-gray. Evidence of the Fremont can also be found in local rock art. Upper Pictograph Cave, in Great Basin National Park, contains pictographs believed to be painted by the Fremont. The figures painted onto the rock surface with an organic pigmented mixture resemble both animal and human forms, and contain the classic Fremont style trapezoidal shapes. Other creations are more abstract, consisting of lines or dots.

The Shoshone came into this area around 700 years ago and their descendents still live in the area today. The ancestral Shoshone were hunter-gatherers. They lived in temporary structures made of brush known as wikiups, and they moved to follow game and collect wild plants. They made baskets and undecorated pottery. They hunted deer, rabbits and antelope and used the bow-and-arrow to hunt large animals.

The nearest descedents of the early Shoshone now live in Ely, Nevada. Other early Shoshone descendents are the Duckwater Shoshone and the Skull Valley Band of the Gosiute (also spelled Goshute).

Difficulty traveling over the desert playas and mountain passes and low rainfall made the area hard to settle. Yet gold, silver, and other precious ores lured miners to the region and farmers and ranchers soon followed. Trappers, including Jedidiah Smith, and several military expeditions, one led by Captain John Fremont, traveled across Nevada in the early 1800′s. Mail and pony express stations dotted the landscape by the 1850s. Immigrants on the way to California crossed the northern Great Basin on the California Trail.

Around 1855, the first Euro-American entered the area around Great Basin National Park to establish ranching. Coming from diverse backgrounds, some were teamsters passing through hauling ammunition and silver; others included Mormons following an exodus to the west; surveyors; or simply homesteaders looking to build a future for themselves. Discoveries of silver and gold in the region brought six mining operations to the South Snake Range. The largest one, Osceola, is on the west side of the range outside the park boundary. The Johnson Lake Mine, inside the park, operated well into the 20th century.

In the 1870′s Absalom Lehman established a ranch near today’s Lehman Creek, where he grew and raised food for local miners. Trees from his orchard still survive near the Lehman Caves Visitor Center. In 1885, he discovered the cave that now bears his name and devoted the rest of his life to guiding people through the natural wonder.

The Snake Range, with its creeks and high meadows, provided enough water and forage to support a few ranching operations, and allowed some ranchers to succeed in building new lives. These ranching pioneers started a legacy that would last for generations to follow. Ranching has been a significant part of the Great Basin’s cultural heritage for well over 100 years. Dependence on the land and its resources has created a financial stability and a rich heritage for ranchers and their families. Through a deep understanding and honest relationship with the terrain, these ranchers have been able to prosper on what others might call a barren wasteland. For many years cattle grazed on the east side of the South Snake Range, even after the establishment of Great Basin National Park. Sheep still graze in the summer months on high elevation meadows on the west side of the park.

The latest generation of three ranching families, however, would soon face a change. Increasing complaints from visitors not used to sharing a national park with cattle sparked conversations between then Superintendent Al Hendricks and local ranchers. Convinced that compensation for the donation of grazing permits might be an equitable and profitable gain to the ranchers, this group pursued discussions with Senator Harry Reid of Nevada on one of his visits to the park.

A solution did not come quickly or easily. While mandated in the original legislation, continued cattle grazing in Great Basin National Park conflicted with the National Park Service Mission. In December 1999, after the better part of nine years of talking, compromising and fundraising, the Conservation Fund, aided by Senator Reid, had raised enough money from various organizations, foundations, and individuals to compensate the ranchers for donating their permits. Once these permits were donated, they could then be terminated. However, this action did not end all grazing in the park. Sheep continue to graze on the western slopes of the Snake Range.

The final outcome involving the cattle ranchers and the buyout of their grazing permits has been described by a local rancher as a win-win situation for both the ranchers and the National Park Service. Great Basin National Park will be monitoring the areas in which cattle are no longer grazing to try and understand the changes in the vegetation and the watershed that will ensue. The park will also now be able to continue its efforts to remove non-native plant species and reintroduce fire in the park’s ecology. Visitors are also free to enjoy the park without having to share hiking trails and campgrounds with cattle.

The ranchers were compensated for donating their permits and pursue cattle grazing in other allotments nearby and on private land. Holding onto their rich heritage, they proceed with their ranching operations and continue to assist in the conservation of open space that so many people here in the Great Basin treasure.

Carefully tucked into the scenic western slopes of east central Nevada’s Snake Range and almost 11,000 feet above sea level, Johnson Lake Mine today lies in ruins. The remains of a few log cabins, mining equipment, and artifacts (trash) from miners and their families are left to tell the story of this mining district. The mine probably played a role in the wartime efforts of the United States during the early 20th century. The deteriorating structures and the vestiges of an aerial tramway are part of what makes Johnson Lake Mine a valuable cultural resource.

Today a historic landscape in Great Basin National Park, Johnson Lake Mine’s story actually begins in the early part of the 1900s, when the mineral tungsten was first discovered in the southern Snake Range. At Johnson Lake Mine tungsten was extracted and milled onsite and then transported a great distance to be refined and then used to make alloy steel. Alloy steel was used to create things like weapons, tanks, and transmitter radios during World War I.

Following the war, mining activity was sporadic until the 1930s when a snowslide rushed over the mine and halted production. After that, the mine was closed and abandoned. Now in disrepair, with much of the mining equipment salvaged for use at other mines or collected by mining buffs, the site still possesses archeological resources. Archeologists are following clues, dusting off the remains of the past, and discovering the day-to-day practices of the mine and the people who inhabited the region.

The Johnson Lake Historic Mining District cannot be reached by car. It is accessible by a strenuous 7.4 mile round trip hike that begins at 8,000 ft and climbs over 2,700 ft in elevation. The trail begins at the end of the Baker Creek Road. Topographic maps of the area are available for purchase at any visitor center bookstore.

The uplift of the Sierra Nevada Mountains to the west creates a rain shadow and makes the Great Basin the desert that it is. Because of the northern latitude and relatively high elevations, the Great Basin is considered a cold desert. The high elevation of Great Basin National Park results in greater precipitation at higher levels leading to a wide diversity of plant and animal life. This desert environment is punctuated by many north-south trending mountain ranges. Some of these reach summits of 12,000 or 13,000 feet. These ranges are separated by lower valleys, creating “islands” of habitat types. This allows for high levels of endemism, restriction of the animals to a particular region. Often a species may be found in one mountain range but not another where it would seem to thrive, just because there is no mechanism for it to cross the desert in the valley floors. The desert climate and many mountain ranges do not allow any surface streams to flow from this region to the sea. The Great Basin region was named for this feature of drainage. Great Basin National Park is only a small part of the Great Basin region.

Great Basin National Park is home to Lexington Arch, one of the largest limestone arches in the western United States. This six-story arch was created by the forces of weather working slowly over the span of centuries. This type of above ground limestone arch is rare. Most of the natural arches of the western United States are composed of sandstone. The fact that Lexington Arch is made of limestone leads to speculation that it was once a passage in a cave system. Flowstone, a smooth glossy deposit that forms in caves has been found at the base of the opening, lending support to this theory.

It is even possible that Lexington Arch is actually a natural bridge. The distinction: an arch is formed by the forces of weathering, such as ice, wind, and chemical breakdown of the rock. A natural bridge, by contrast, is formed by the flowing waters of a stream. It is possible that long ago when Lexington Canyon was less deep, the waters of Lexington Creek flowed through a cave in the wall of the canyon, in the process enlarging the tunnel that later became Lexington Arch. If this happened then the Arch is truly a natural bridge.

Whatever the case may be, the forces of weather continue to sculpt the Arch. The limestone is particularly vulnerable to the dissolving action of rainwater. As time goes on the rain, ice, heat, and cold chisel the Arch into a unique natural form that will continue to change with the passage of centuries.

The park begins in a low elevation area dominated by plants such as sagebrush, pinyon pines, and junipers. As you ascend, running streams, mountain meadows, fir, aspen, spruce, and large pines become more common. Eventually you reach high above the tree line and can venture into the alpine area of low, delicate plants and rocky outcroppings.

The Great Basin gets less than 10 inches of rain a year on average. It is a cold desert and because of its high elevation it receives most of its moisture in winter snows. Despite these dry conditions there are over 800 different plant species in the park and South Snake Range. The way many of these plant species are able to survive in this environment is through specialized adaptations or by living in the mountain ranges. Many flowering plants will only grow and produce seeds during a year when there is enough water. They then lie dormant until a year of adequate moisture. The Sagebrush, a very common resident of the Great Basin, is well adapted to the area. The Big Sagebrush root system can extend as much as 90 feet in circumference. This adaptation allows the plant to catch as much water as possible when the rains do come. Others have adapted to the high salt areas by excreting excess salt from their leaves.

There are many species of trees and shrubs present in the park and these are just a few. Utah Juniper, Juniperus osteosperma, is one of the most abundant and widely scattered trees of the region. Typically found between 3,000 and 8,000 feet, this tree grows amongst pinyon and sagebrush. The short scale-like needles are 1/8 inch long and last several years. Foliage and branches are stiff. Seeds are borne in berry-like scaled cones. The cones, when mature, are up to a half-inch in diameter and bronze in color with a bluish white frosting. Male and female cones are found on the same tree. Bark consists of many layers of fibrous elongated shreds. Native Americans used the bark for torches, tobacco substitute, and wove it for cloth. The wood was used for wickiups, pit houses, utensils, and as a preferred fuel. Ranchers favored the wood for fence posts because of its durability. Needles produce a tea high in vitamin C. The cones were eaten and today are used to flavor gin.

Singleleaf Pinyon Pine, Pinus monophylla, grows between 5,000 and 9,000 feet often mixed with Utah Juniper and sagebrush. Pinyon grows better in places where Utah Juniper is already established as the juniper moderates the microclimate by providing shade. Pinyon migrated into the region eleven thousand years ago after the retreat of the glaciers. Normally this reddish barked tree is small and many branched. This is the only pine to have a single needle fascicle. The needles are usually round or cylindrical in cross section, rigid and sharp. They curve toward the branch and are about 1 ½ inches long. Cones contain wingless edible seeds. Native Americans relied heavily on this tree. The nuts were an important source of food. One pound of pinyon nuts contains more than 3,000 calories. The tree provided fuel, charcoal for painting, pollen for ceremonies. The resin or pitch was used for chewing gum, mending, cementing, and waterproofing. During the mining boom years of the 1800′s pinyon was the primary source of wood used charcoal for the smelters.

Douglas fir, Pseudotsuga menziesii, is the most valuable lumber tree of the west. Although it is not a true fir, Douglas fir’s one-inch needles are also Flat, Friendly and Flexible. Bark of young trees is gray and smooth becoming darker and scaly with age. Very old trees display deep furrows in the bark. Cones are red-brown, 2 to 4 inches long with three pointed bracts extending from beneath the cone scales. Seeds have one wing. One of its distinguishing characteristics is long shiny pointy brown buds. Douglas fir is common between 6,500 and 9,000 feet. It may live up to 1,000 years. Native Americans used the needles to make a tea high in vitamin C. The roots were used for basket weaving and the twigs for arrow shafts.

Pinus longaeva, or Bristlecone, the oldest living thing, has been known to live for over 4,900 years. Great Basin Bristlecone pines are remarkable for their great age and their ability to survive adverse growing conditions. In fact, it seems one secret to their longevity is the harsh environment in which most bristlecone pines grow. It usually grows between 9,000 and 11,500 feet although specimens can be found at lower elevations. Bristlecone pines in these high-elevation environments grow very slowly, and in some years don’t even add a ring of growth. This slow growth makes their wood very dense and resistant to insects, fungi, rot, and erosion. Bristlecone grows on exposed rocky sites above the continuous forest. It is usually found on limestone or dolomite but, as is the case on Wheeler Peak, will grow on quartzite or volcanic rock. It forms woodlands alone or with limber pine and Engelmann spruce. At timberline this tree will form krumholtz. At lower elevations it retains its upright shape but stops growing taller at 15 to 30 feet. Trees in protected sites may grow to heights of 60 feet. Wind and snow at higher elevations cause the crown to become bushy and distorted. Wind blown sand and ice crystal polishes the trunk, often wearing away sections of the tree.

Needles are short, one-inch long, and in packets of five. The dark green needles surround the twig and tufts may extend back a foot or more along the branch. Needles can last up to forty years. Developing cones are purple, which helps absorb heat. After two years they turn brown at maturity. The woody scales on the three inch long cones are each tipped with a fragile cat claw-like bristle. Although the seeds are winged, the bristlecone is heavily dependent on nutcrackers to help with dispersion. Bristlecones survive longest where conditions are most strenuous. They are slow growing and easily out-competed by faster growing trees so they have adapted to the harshest conditions where other trees won’t grow. The oldest known living bristlecone, 4,600+ years old, is in the White Mountains near Bishop, California. A 4,900+ year old tree was removed from the Wheeler Peak grove in 1964.

Groves found in the park are Wheeler Peak Grove, the most accessible grove in the park,and is located on the northeast side of Wheeler Peak. It is unusual in that it grows on a glacial moraine consisting of quartzite boulders. Most groves grow on limestone or dolomite. The northeastern exposure of the Wheeler Peak grove is also unusual as most other groves have a generally southern or western exposure. The Wheeler Peak grove is reached by a 1.5 mile (3 miles round trip) trail from Wheeler Peak Campground.

The largest grove of bristlecone pines in the park is on Mt. Washington. Located in the west central portion of the park, access is difficult. No developed trails exist in the grove. Some sections of this grove have relatively tall (over 40 feet) bristlecone pines that resemble high-elevation spruce or limber pine more than the typical gnarled treeline bristlecone pines. Unlike the Wheeler Peak grove, the trees on Mt. Washington grow exclusively on limestone. In fact, nearby quartzite areas are notable for their lack of bristlecones.

The third grove in the park is near Eagle Peak (Peak 10,842) on the ridge between the Snake Creek and Baker Creek drainages. The terrain is steep and access is difficult. These bristlecones also grow exclusively on limestone soils, while granitic soils in the area lack bristlecones.

Western Chokecherry, Prunus virginiana, is a common tree of stream bottoms and moist hillsides. It can grow to a height of 30 feet or more. It has smooth dark bark on young trees that becomes gray and slightly furrowed with age. Twigs are brown with prominent lenticular scars. Leaves are shiny green and finely toothed. Flowers are white and form in clusters. Fruit is cherry-like, dark red to black and very bitter. They are eaten by birds and deer. The leaves contain cyanide and are poisonous to domestic livestock. With enough sugar the fruit makes a good jam. Native Americans ate the fruits and used them in pemmican. Fruits and twigs were also used in some ceremonies.

There are six species of sagebrush Artemisia in the park. Sagebrush tolerates a great range of elevations and ecological conditions. It is the indicator plant of the Great Basin Desert. Big Sagebrush, A. tridentata, is the most common sagebrush in the park and the state flower of Nevada. Big sagebrush is a branched, erect, evergreen shrub with aromatic gray-green alternate leave. Leaves are lobed at the tip and have silvery hairs on both sides. Numerous, small, stalk-less yellow flowers appear in erect clusters in August. Flowers are wind pollinated and cause allergies in some people. Sagebrush was important to the Native Americans. Seeds were eaten and tea from the leaves was used as an antiseptic and as a cure for colds and stomach ailments. Leaves provided a green dye. A hair tonic and a tonic to treat worms were made from the plant. Fibrous branches provided tinder for fires and were woven into cloth. Branches were used in smudging before a hunt. Today some sagebrush species provide absinthe, a fragrance. Other common species of sagebrush include Dwarf Sagebrush, A. arbuscula, which is a smaller plant than big sagebrush and has three lobed leaves that wide and wedge shaped. Black sagebrush is considered a subspecies of dwarf sagebrush. Both grow on poor rocky soil. Silver Sagebrush, A. Cana, and Bud Sagebrush, A. spinescens, are also found in the park. Silver sagebrush looks similar to big sagebrush from a distance but it is smaller and the leaves are generally not lobed. Bud sagebrush grows amongst shadscale. It is distinctive for its spines. It tolerates the most arid condition of the sagebrush species.

Fishing is a great way to enjoy the park. When the new populations of natice fish have stabilized, recreational fishing for this unique species will greatly add to visitor enjoyment of the park. Bonneville cutthroat in their native waters can reach relatively large sizes in small creeks compared to brook, rainbow and brown trout. In order to make this project a success, you are ask that you please do not move any fish between bodies of water within the park. While fishing in those streams that contain populations of Bonneville cutthroat trout, please practice catch and release techniques using barbless hooks and fill out an angler survey card before you leave.

There are numerous limestone caverns to explore. Visit the beautiful Lehman Caves, a national monument since 1922, where you can choose a 60 or 90 minute tour where you’ll pass by many shields, helictites, flowstone, popcorn, over 300 rare shield formations, and fabulous draperies for an adventure not soon forgotten. Lehman Caves can only be entered with a guided tour. Cave tours are offered daily, year round, except for Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day, and New Year’s Day. Park rangers lead all tours, explaining the history and geology of the caves. Cave tours are 30, 60, or 90 minutes long. Longer tours go further along the same route than shorter tours. The full tour route is 0.54 miles round-trip. The First Room Tour (30 minutes) visits only the Gothic Palace, the first room in the cave. Because children ages 4 and under have a limited attention span, they are not permitted on the 90 minute tour. Cave tours are limited to 20 persons per tour. Cave tours often sell out during busy summer months. To ensure space, buy your tickets early in the day, or in advance over the telephone (775-234-7331 x242) between the hours of 9:00am to 4:00pm Pacific Time, Monday through Friday. Please note that tickets cannot be purchased over the phone on the day of the tour.

Lexington Arch is located in a remote and wild section of Great Basin National Park. The hike to the base of the Arch is 1.7 miles (2.7 km). The trail rises 820 feet (250 m). Rising high above the floor of Lexington Canyon, this imposing natural arch was created by the forces of weather working slowly over a span of centuries. Lexington Arch is unusual in one important respect: it is carved from limestone. Most of the natural arches of the western United States are composed of sandstone.

Carefully tucked into the scenic western slopes of east central Nevada’s Snake Range and almost 11,000 feet above sea level, Johnson Lake Mine today lies in ruins. The remains of a few log cabins, mining equipment, and artifacts (trash) from miners and their families are left to tell the story of this mining district. The mine probably played a role in the wartime efforts of the United States during the early 20th century. The deteriorating structures and the vestiges of an aerial tramway are part of what makes Johnson Lake Mine a valuable cultural resource. Today it is a historic landscape in Great Basin National Park. The Johnson Lake Historic Mining District cannot be reached by car. It is accessible by a strenuous 7.4 mile round trip hike that begins at 8,000 ft and climbs over 2,700 ft in elevation. The trail begins at the end of the Baker Creek Road. Topographic maps of the area are available for purchase at any visitor center bookstore.

Great Basin National Park is best explored by hiking. This is a park where it is possible to experience true solitude for a special wilderness adventure. Hiking options range from a 1/4 mile accessible trail, nature trails and mountain treks to primitive routes taking several days of backpacking. Chose a hiking trail to a six-story limestone arch or one that passes two beautiful alpine lakes, named Stella and Teresa Lakes. Or you may chose a trail that offers nice views of the surrounding peaks and ends at Baker Lake, an alpine lake with beautiful cliffs behind it. A good walk to break in a young hiker begins at the Summit Trailhead and leads to beautiful Stella Lake. Round trip distance is under 2.5 miles. Any backpacking trail you chose will lead you past beauty and great wilderness views. Consider extending your hike by spending the night in the backcountry. Great Basin offers extensive areas for backpacking trips. Though there are a number of established routes, much of the park, especially the fragile alpine areas, remains wild country without trails. Much of the park’s scenic backcountry is at elevations of 9000 feet and above. As a result the hiking season here is typically limited to the months of June through September. Deep snow closes the roads and limits access to those equipped with skis or snowshoes for the remainder of the year. The Baker Lake and Johnson Lake Trails can be combined as a 13.1 miles loop hike. The connecting section is a steep route over the ridge between Baker and Johnson Lakes. The ridge top offers spectacular views in all directions, including the south faces of Wheeler Peak and Baker Peak. Rangers can also recommend possible routes in even more remote areas of the park. Hiking cross-country can be an exciting adventure and challenge for the more experienced hikers and route-finders. Horses and pack animals (mules, burros, and llamas) are allowed in most of the park as well.

For those who enjoy a less strenous vacation, take a scenic drive through some of the park. Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive winds for 12 miles to end at the Wheeler Peak Campground (elevation 9,986 feet). Vehicles over 24 feet in length are not recommended beyond Upper Lehman Creek Campground (3.5 miles). Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive closes seasonally, though it may be open by Memorial Day Weekend, beyond Upper Lehman Creek Campground. Baker Creek Road is a 3.5 mile graded gravel road. This road is usually closed in winter. Inquire at the visitor center for more information on dirt roads which provide access to the backcountry.

Campfire programs and guided Bristlecone hikes are offered in the summer. The ranger-guided hike to the ancient bristlecone grove in the Wheeler Peak cirque is an excellent way to learn more about the natural history of these incredible trees and the Wheeler Peak area. Campfire programs are offered in the summer season at Upper Lehman Creek and Wheeler Peak Campgrounds. Program topics vary, covering subjects related to Great Basin National Park’s cultural and natural resources. Programs last 40-60 minutes. Please come prepared with warm clothing and a lantern or flashlight. Mid-June through Labor Day.

The area in and around Great Basin National Park sees a very limited amount of technical rock climbing. The hazardous nature of the rock is the main contributor to this as well as the remoteness of the sites. All routes in the Wheeler Peak area are hazardous with deadly rockfall at all times of year. Visitor Centers can provide information on routes.

Mountain biking is allowed only on roads (no trails) in the park. Helmets are strongly recommended. There are primitive roads to access for more of a challenge. For more information on possible rides, check with a ranger at a visitor center.

Solitude, stillness, and spectacular scenery greet skiers in Great Basin National Park. Novice skiers can find gentle slopes for touring or experienced ski mountaineers can challenge their skills on steep and deep backcountry runs. Snow conditions range from wet or hard packed snow to fresh dry powder. While skiing, look around to familiarize yourself with the surroundings for the return trip. Follow your progress on a map of the area. Know your abilities and limitations. Many trails and roads (varying in length and elevation gain) provide access for snowshoeing. The Baker Creek & Pole Canyon Loop Trail is for the nivice to intermediate skier and is 5.6 miles round trip to Baker Trailhead and then the Pole Canyon loop is 7.6-miles. Route finding can be difficult without orienteering skills. There are other trails that are for the expert skier as they can be dangerous during high avalanche danger.

Several environmental factors have had profound effects on the region’s ecology and human history. Human lives have been affected by the environmental factors of this region. Difficulty traveling over the desert playas and mountain passes and low rainfall made the area hard to settle. Yet gold, silver, and other precious ores lured miners to the region and farmers and ranchers soon followed. Today, water is still the limiting resource for man, wildlife, and plant life.

The fight against nonnative invasive plants in Great Basin National Park has begun. Not all nonnative plants are invasive. Many, like the fruit trees in the historic orchard by the visitor center, require care taking to survive in this environment. Only a very few of all introduced plants become pests. These plants arrive in an environment that is actually better suited to them than the ecosystem they evolved in. They thrive because of different seasonal patterns, water patterns, or lack or competition or predation.

These plants can out-compete the native plants. This can reduce biodiversity, create conditions for increased soil erosion, reduce forage and alter habitats. Spotted knapweed secrets biotoxins that inhibit the growth of other plants. Cheat grass sprouts earlier than the native grasses, then uses enough water that the native grasses (generally better forage) have a hard time competing.

Although there are over 25 species of nonnative plants in the park, management is only targeting a few of them for control. The effort is focusing on plants with the greatest potential impact that can be controlled feasibly, such as spotted knapweed, bull thistle and musk thistle. You may see park employees and volunteers spot treating plants, pulling flowering plants or scientifically monitoring the effects of treatment. One problem is that some plants are continuously being re-introduced into the park.

Plants are introduced via many routes. Some are planted in gardens or during roadside stabilization projects. Others are introduced accidentally as contaminants in seed, animal feed, or even packing material! Nonnative seeds and plant parts are often spread by being carried on the hooves or hides of animals, in the doors or undercarriages of vehicles, or on hikers’ apparel.

You can help! Check the doors and undercarriage of your vehicle for plants. Scrutinize your pet’s coat and your shoes, socks and pants legs for “hitchhiking” seeds. If you find any plants or seeds, remove them and place them in a garbage can. Use weed-free hay when taking stock animals into the park. If you want to contribute more actively in the fight against non-natives, contact rangers at the visitor center about volunteering for an hour or more as a Weed Warrior. Consider landscaping around your own home with native plants.

Great Basin National Park is charged with a mission to provide for public enjoyment of the park and to protect the park’s natural resources. The park started a long-term project in 1999 to eliminate the nonnative fish from certain park streams and return the native Bonneville cutthroat trout to the habitat. The park, in cooperation with many like-minded organizations, is working to restore the Bonneville cutthroat trout to approximately eighteen stream miles within the South Snake Range. Six streams within the park are being considered for reintroduction efforts. The full Bonneville cutthroat trout reintroduction program is expected to take six to ten years to complete.

This is a fairly arid region with most precipitation received during winter snows or summer thunderstorms. Winters are generally cool and summers are generally mild; however, weather conditions can change rapidly, especially at the higher elevations. Be prepared for all types of weather. Lehman Caves is 50 degrees F, 90% humidity year round, a jacket and suitable walking shoes are recommended.

Current Park Weather

Lehman Caves is 50 degrees F, 90% humidity year round, so a jacket and suitable walking shoes are recommended. The elevation at the cave entrance is 6,825 feet (2080m). There are steps and slopes along the cave tour route. Watch your head as low ceilings may require frequent stooping. Trails may be wet and slippery. Shoes should have good traction. Watch your step and always use handrails where provided. No food, gum, tobacco products, or beverages (including water) are allowed in the cave. Narrow passages make it necessary that excess items (such as purses, camera bags, fanny packs, backpacks, strollers, tripods, walking sticks, etc.) not be taken in the cave. These items should be secured in your vehicle. The only items visitors may bring in the cave with them is a camera, jacket and flashlight. Stay with your tour, as the ranger will turn off the lights as the group leaves an area. Do not touch or collect any natural formations, rocks, ceilings, or walls in the cave. The guide may dictate when and where photographs are allowed. Lehman Caves can only be entered with a guided tour. Children under 16 must be accompanied by an adult. Brief tours of the first room, Gothic Palace, are available for those unable to negotiate the stairs and narrow passageways. Visitors may purchase tickets up to 30 days in advance. All tickets must be paid for at the time of purchase. Major credit cards are accepted. All advance sales are final, so please plan carefully. Advance tickets must be picked up at the Lehman Caves Visitor Center at least 15 minutes prior to tour time, at which time unclaimed tickets will go on sale to walk-in customers. Golden Age/Golden Access cards must be presented to be eligible for a discount. Unclaimed tickets will not be refunded.

Elevations in the park range from 6,200 to 13,063 feet. Due to the extreme elevation range, backpackers should be prepared for highly variable weather conditions. Heed these weather warnings. This is a fairly arid region with most precipitation received during winter snows or summer thunderstorms. Winters are generally cool and summers are generally mild; however, weather conditions can change rapidly, especially at the higher elevations. The higher elevations areas are usually snowbound until late June. Much of the park’s scenic backcountry is at elevations of 9000 feet and above. As a result the hiking season here is typically limited to the months of June through September. Deep snow closes the roads and limits access to those equipped with skis or snowshoes for the remainder of the year. At elevations of 10,000 feet and higher, snow and/or electrical storms can be life-threatening, and can occur any month of the year. Be prepared for all types of weather and carry clothing and gear for a wide range of temperatures and conditions.

Make sure you are prepared before starting any hike. Bring clothing for all types of weather, as weather may change rapidly, especially at high elevations. Eat and drink plenty while hiking. Though there are a number of established routes, much of the park, especially the fragile alpine areas, remains wild country without trails. Be prepared to hike cross-country on hard-to-follow routes, or to follow drainages, ridges and other natural features. Skills in map reading are essential to any off-trail travel in the park. Though permits are currently not required for backcountry camping, you are encouraged to come to the visitor center before departing to fill out a voluntary backcountry registration form and to obtain the latest information on backcountry conditions.

No water source in the backcountry should be used without boiling or filtering. Ask at the visitor center about water sources and availability when you arrive. Generally, late spring is the time of most abundant water. By late summer, streams and springs can be dry, or nearly so. It is advisable to carry ample water on any backcountry trip, and drink it! Keeping hydrated prevents many ailments encountered while hiking. Hypothermia, dehydration, altitude sickness and sun exposure are serious hazards that should be understood by the hiker before venturing on any hike. Be sure to maintain an appropriate level of preparedness for these and other situations. Wear sunscreen and a good hat when weather is sunny and stay as warm and dry as possible when weather is stormy. More information about these hazards can be obtained at the visitor center. Also remember that it is unsafe to enter any mine or cave without proper approval.

Other useful equipment for a backpacking checklist is tent with rainfly, repair kit, sleeping bag and mat, backpack, good hiking boots, food, collapsible water carrier, 1-2 quart water bottle, first aid kit, signal mirror or whistle, layered clothing, topographical map, compass, GPS unit, campstove, fuel, matches, fire starter such as a candle, cook pots, utensils, and flashlight with change of batteries and bulb.

Horses and pack animals are prohibited on paved roads, in campgrounds and developed areas, on self-guided interpretive trails, and in day use zones. Horses and pack animals are not allowed on or within 1/4 mile of the following trails: Bald Mountain Cutoff Trail, Alpine Lakes Loop, Bristlecone/Glacier Trail, Wheeler Peak Trail, and Baker to Johnson Lake Cutoff Trail, Osceola Ditch Trail, and Lexington Arch Trail. Portions of trails may be closed to horse and/or pack animal use for safety or environmental reasons. Manure piles dropped at trailheads or in overnight backcountry camping areas must be scattered. Please remember to use weed-free feed for a week prior to your visit. This helps to reduce the spread of noxious weeds in the park. Do not tie your animal to trees or other vegetation for more than 60 minutes or in a manner that causes damage to park resources. Do not picket, hobble, or allow your animal to graze within 100 yards of any lake, stream, or spring.

Pets are not allowed on park trails or in the backcountry. Pets may disturb the wildlife and cause damage to plants and terrain. They could also be in danger from bobcats or mountain lions. It is better for the pet to be left at home if you are going to be hiking.

Please remember that everything in a national park is protected. Some bristlecone pine wood on the ground may be thousands of years old and important scientifically. Please leave all down bristlecone pine wood in place.

When climbing in Great Basin National Park, please remember that the park was established to preserve its outstanding resources and significant geological and scenic values. All biological, cultural and mineral resources, including rocks, should be protected and preserved in their natural state. Chiseling, chipping, gluing, or breaking away rock, or otherwise physically altering the rock, is prohibited. This includes placing bolts or other fixed protection. Clean aid, top-roping, or traditional lead climbing are permitted. The use of motorized drills, hand drills or other portable motorized equipment is not allowed. Painting or otherwise marking the rock including names of climbs or ratings is prohibited. Climbing within 100 yards of an archeological site, including pictographs and petroglyphs, is not permitted. Damaging plant life, including lichens and moss, is prohibited.

Technical climbing registration is voluntary at Great Basin National Park. However, climbers are strongly encouraged to register, especially those attempting any of the alpine routes. Registration forms provide crucial information for rescue personnel. Leaders may register for climbs at the visitor center.

Please climb clean! If using chalk select a color which blends in with the rock (most of the rock in this area is a greyish limestone) and any webbing or cord being used as a rapell anchor should also blend into the surroundings (leave the hot pink at home). Remember, the use of fixed protection is prohibited. Rescue resources are very limited and frequently unavailable, or hours away. Parties should always be capable of self-rescue. If someone is injured or seriously overdue, contact a park ranger or a campground host. If a ranger cannot be found, a pay phones is available at the Lehman Caves Visitor Center. Dial 911 to get help.

The park contains a wide diversity of animal life due to the large elevational changes in the park. A large herd of feral horses lives in the Mountain Home Range, south of the park. Another herd occurs in the Conger Range, east of Eskdale, UT. Elk were native to Snake and Schell Creek ranges but extirpated. Re-introduced (from Yellowstone NP) in the Schell Creek Range in the 1930′s, they are now abundant there. Small groups are occasionally reported in the Snake Range, in Board, Shingle, and Strawberry Creeks.

Only two species of amphibians have been positively identified in the southern Snake Range and adjacent portions of Snake and Spring Valleys–the spadefoot toad (Scaphiopus hammondi) and the leopard frog (Rana pipiens) although others are suspected to exist there. Snakes, especially rattlesnakes, are among the best-known of the Great Basin reptiles. Nine to ten species of snakes live within the park and the surrounding area. Some of these species are very secretive and rare, and others are highly visible and often observed by park visitors and local residents. Of the local snake species, only rattlesnakes are dangerous to humans. Great Basin rattlesnakes are the only rattlesnake species found in this area. Great Basin rattlers can be up to 48 inches in length, but are usually between 36 and 40 inches. Rattlesnakes frequent a variety of habitats with rocky areas: desert shrub, woodland, and forest. Rattlesnakes can be distinguished from harmless snakes by their short, stocky bodies and stubby, rattle-tipped tail. Harmless snakes have a long, sharp tail.

Bird watching is a legitimate activity in the park as 238 species of birds have been reported in Great Basin National Park and the vicinity, which includes Snake Valley and north and south Snake Range. Some of these are the Common Loon, Eared Grebe, American White Pelican, Double-crested Cormorant, American Bittern, Cattle Egret, Black-crowned Night Heron, Snowy Egret, Great Egret, Great Blue Heron, Tundra Swan and Snow Goose to name but a few of the many birds to be seen.

In the sagebrush desert, you will find certain animals which are specially adapted to the aridity of that area. Jackrabbits, pygmy rabbits, mountain cottontails, ground squirrels, chipmunks, and various mice live in this area. Pronghorn antelope may be seen on the open sagebrush and grassy plains near the park entrance. Coyotes, kit fox, and badgers will be seen less often, but are present.

The pygmy forest with its pinyon pine and juniper trees offers another haven for mammals. Some prefer the wooded areas, while others like the transition zone between the sagebrush desert and pygmy forest. Mule deer abound in this area. Other mammals most commonly seen in the pinyon-juniper forest are striped skunks, mice, and ground squirrels. There are a number of springs and clear running streams in the park. The secretive spotted skunk, shrews, ringtail cat, and the least weasel or ermine are fond of wetter places to make their homes. In the more rugged areas on the slopes of mountains and in the valley areas nearby, mountain lions, bobcats, mule deer, marmots, rock squirrels, and mountain sheep can occasionally be seen. Great Basin National Park’s mountain lions feed primarily on mule deer but also include porcupines, rabbits, bighorn sheep, beaver, elk, marmots, and small rodents in their diets, so this is a good area for them. All mammals in the park are protected which means their numbers are controlled naturally by predators, disease, food supply, and the diversity of available habitat.

The Bonneville cutthroat trout is the only trout native to Great Basin National Park and East Central Nevada. Unfortunately Bonneville cutthroat trout were extirpated from their ancestral waters within Great Basin National Park largely as a result of two factors: stocking of nonnative fish and habitat degradation from human activities. Most of the streams on the eastern side of the South Snake Range had healthy populations of Bonneville cutthroat trout at the time the settlers arrived. Decades later, other fish species were transported to the South Snake Range and planted in the mountain lakes and streams. Indiscriminate and widespread stocking of nonnative Lahonton cutthroat, rainbow, brook and brown trout introduced overwhelming competition for food and other resources. In addition, rainbow trout interbreed with native cutthroats and reduce species purity. Water diversions, mining, and domestic livestock grazing significantly altered the streams by reducing stream flows, increasing sediment, and decreasing streamside cover. In recent years, land use has changed within the park. Park streams and lakes are no longer stocked with nonnative fish, mining and livestock grazing no longer occur, and stream habitat is improving.

Remember to respect the wildlife. Do not approach them or feed them. Be cautious for rattlesnakes, mountain lions and elk. See Wildlife Precautions page for further safety tips regarding these animals.

There are no entrance fees. Camping fees for established campgrounds is $12.00 per night. There is no fee for the primitive campgrounds.

The fees for the Lehman Cave Tours vary with the length of the tour and run from $4 for youths and $10 for adults.

There are five campgrounds as well as primitive camping areas and backcountry camping. All park camping is on a first come, first served basis. No reservations can be made (except for the Grey Cliffs Group Campground). Campsites cannot be “saved” or reserved for family or friends arriving later. Pets in the campgrounds must be kept on a leash 6 feet in length or shorter at all times. Pets are not permitted on park trails. Campsites are limited to 8 people and 2 vehicles per site, except the group campsites.

Baker Creek Campground is open mid-May through September. At 7,700 feet (2,350 meters), it contains 32 campsites, 2 of which are wheelchair accessible, and pit toilets. It is 3 miles from the Visitor Center on a gravel road. Water is available in summer only.

Grey Cliffs Group Campground is open Memorial Day to Labor Day. ((775) 234-7331 ext. 213). The elevation is 7,115 ft. (2,160 meters). A campfire is allowed in one campfire ring only. The campsite has pit toilets and no potable water. Water jugs can be filled at the Baker Creek Campground or the RV dumpstation. RV’s are not recommended due to space constraints. The campsite fee is $25 per night for up to 25 people. Each additional person will increase the fee one dollar. The total may not exceed 50 people and $50. A $10 non-refundable deposit will be applied to the fee. Balance is due upon check-in.

Lower Lehman Creek Campground is open year round. At 7,300 feet (2,200 meters), it contains 11 campsites, pit toilets, and a limited number of pull-through RV campsites for small RV’s and trailers. It is 2.5 miles from the Visitor Center off the paved scenic drive. Water is available in summer only.

Upper Lehman Creek Campground is open mid-May through September. It is located 3 miles from the Visitors Center off the Scenic Drive at 7,800 feet (2,400 meters). It contains 24 campsites, pit toilets, and 1 wheelchair accessible site. Water is available in summer only.

Wheeler Peak Campground is open June through September and is located at 9,950 feet (3,000 meters) at the end of the scenic drive, just over 12 miles from the Visitors Center. It contains 37 sites, (one wheelchair accessible), and pit toilets. The road to the campground is narrow and curvy and climbs an 8% grade 12 miles. RV’s and trailers are not recommended. Water is available in summer only. We have two visitor centers now, so Wheeler Peak Campground is just over 12 miles from the Lehman Caves Visitor Center.

The Primitive Campgrounds is open year round. The facilities are located along Snake Creek and Strawberry Creek Roads. Picnic tables and fire pits are provided at most sites. A few Snake Creek sites have toilets. Creek water should be treated before use. Drinking water is available at the dump station near the visitor center from late spring through early fall. In winter, water is available at the visitor center. Camping is on a first come, first served basis. The park’s primitive campgrounds do not have a fee.

Bryce Canyon National Park, Cedar Breaks National Monument, Death Valley National Park, Timpanogos Cave National Monument, Zion National Park, Arches National Park, and Capitol Reef National Park all range from 148 to 326 miles from Great Basin. Closer to the park is Humboldt National Forest, Toiyabe National Forest, Cave Lake State Park, and Willow Creek Rec Area State Park.

The nearest airport is located in Cedar City, Utah, 120 miles away. Major airports are found in Salt Lake City (240 miles) and Las Vegas (287 miles.)

By car, the park can be reached from the east or west: from U.S. Highway 6 & 50, turn south on Nevada State Highway 487 and travel 5 miles to Baker, NV; in Baker turn west on Highway 488 to the park. From the south: Travel north on Utah State Highway 21 through Milford, UT and Garrison, UT, which will become Nevada State Highway 487 as you cross the border; turn west on Highway 488 in the town of Baker.

The Wheeler Peak Scenic drive is 12 miles long with an 8% grade. Vehicles longer than 24 feet are not recommended to travel beyond the Upper Lehman Creek Campground. The road is closed beyond this campground in the winter. The Baker Creek Road is a 3.6 mile gravel road. This road is closed in winter.

Approximate Mileage from the following major cities to Great Basin National Park:

By car:

Salt Lake City, UT – 263.32 miles

Provo, UT – 219.06 miles

Las Vegas, NV – 312.59 miles

Reno, NV – 384.16 miles

By Plane:

Cedar City, UT Regional Airport – 142 miles

There is no public transportation available to or in the park.

Great Basin National Park, 100 Great Basin National Park, Baker, NV 89311
Visitor Information (775) 234-7331
By Fax (775) 234-7269

Map

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