Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve
Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve
The park is located in south-eastern Alaska
Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve includes the continent’s largest assemblage of glaciers and the greatest collection of peaks above 16,000 feet, including the second highest peak in the US- Mount St. Elias. Needless to say, this is the park for those who enjoy solitude and outdoor adventures. You will find fishing, mountaineering, climbing, cross country skiing, snow skiing, snowmobiling, snow shoeing, kayaking, rafting, backpacking, hiking, mountain biking and sports hunting. Continue reading for further Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve information.
Uniqueness
The Chugach, Wrangell, and St. Elias mountain ranges converge here in what is often referred to as the “mountain kingdom of North America.” The largest unit of the National Park System and a day’s drive east of Anchorage, this spectacular park includes the continent’s largest assemblage of glaciers and the greatest collection of peaks above 16,000 feet. Mount St. Elias, at 18,008 feet, is the second highest peak in the United States. Adjacent to Canada’s Kluane National Park, the site is characterized by remote mountains, sweeping valleys, wild rivers, and a variety of wildlife.
The 61-mile McCarthy road offers Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve visitors a unique opportunity to explore interior Alaska. National and historic wonders await those visitors willing to accept travel and access on Alaskan terms. Driving this road is an Alaskan adventure. Its gravel and dirt surface makes for slow travel-it can take 3 hours or more. At the end of the road, you will find parking areas and two foot bridges that cross the Kennicott River and lead to McCarthy and kennicott. Access to McCarthy is by foot, bike, or shuttle. Traveling the McCarthy road provides access to incredible hiking, fishing, and camping, as well as the wonderful historic communities of McCarthy and kennicott.
Another way to experience the beauty and tremendous size of this park is from above! Fly past massive peaks, over jagged glaciers, and endless expanses of wild Alaska! A wide variety of tours and itineraries are available. Most operators take off from Glennallen, McCarthy, or Chitina. And still another way to see the park is on the waters. The park offers tremendous kayaking and rafting options. But the list doesn’t end there. You can enjoy mountaineering, climbing, cross country skiing, snow skiing, snowmobiling, snow shoeing, bird watching and horseback riding.
The Wrangell-St. Elias Visitor Center is open year round 8-4:30 M-F, with summer hours 8-6 daily. The kennicott Visitor Center is open summertime 9-5:30 daily. The Slana Ranger Station is open all year with summer hours 8-4:30 daily and winter by appointment only. All McCarthy/Kennecott visitors are encouraged to visit the Ranger Station at Chitina, open daily during the summer months between 10:00 a.m. and 6:00 p.m. Remember that Chitina is the last place to obtain fuel and supplies before heading out.
It was proclaimed as Wrangell-St. Elias National Monument Dec. 1, 1978; established as a national park and preserve and a wilderness on Dec. 2, 1980; and designated a World Heritage Site Oct. 24, 1979. The park is part of a World Heritage site with Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve, and Kluane National and Tatsheshini-Alsek Provincial Parks in Canada. The World Heritage site contains 24 million acres recognized for exceptional interest and universal value. Research activities and many researchers from all over the world conduct their work in the virtually untouched and remote areas here.
Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve is named for Baron von Wrangell (the territory’s Russian Governor) and St. Elias (the day the range was viewed by Bering during his exploration of interior Alaska). It encompasses four mountain ranges including nine of the 16 tallest peaks in the United States. Since it is remote, the park has had little human occupation. Early caribou hunters began visiting the region about 8,000 years ago but the first known settlements appeared in the last 1,000 years with the arrival of the Ahtna Indian Culture. Game was always sparse in the region.
The spelling of Kennecott varies according to author, subject, and context. USGS geologist Oscar Rohn named the Kennicott Glacier in 1899 for Smithsonian naturalist Robert Kennicott, who died of heart failure while surveying near Nulato, Alaska in May 1866. The Park is the largest park in the National Park System, spanning over 13 million acres.
Local residents later applied that name to the Kennicott River. Both are spelled with an “i.” The Kennecott Mines Company (and its most famous successors, the Kennecott Copper Corporation and Kennecott Minerals Company) took its name from the glacier as well, but unaccountably spelled it with an “e.” Nevertheless, in the early 1950s the USGS decided to correct the company’s “error” by spelling the site’s name with an “i” on its topographical maps, and most local residents subsequently adopted that spelling. Still later, the National Park Service chose to recognize the importance of the site’s rich mining history by restoring its original spelling. Consequently, all NPS documents spell Kennecott with an “e.”
The Nabesna Road was originally built in 1933 by the Alaska Road Commission to supply Nabesna Mine and to ship out its ore. Today, the Alaska Department of Transportation maintains the Nabesna Road and, generally, the road is passable by most two-wheel drive vehicles. However, higher clearance and/or four-wheel drive are occasionally needed beyond Mile 29 due to stream crossings. Wet conditions such as spring run-off and heavy rain can make these stream crossings impassable. The last four miles of the road are not maintained and may be deeply rutted and wet. Vehicle travel on this portion of the road is not recommended.
Animal populations in Wrangell-St. Elias have always been scarce and the human history in the basin has been sparse. Caribou were the dominant ungulate in the area with populations throughout what is now the park. Moose and other game were less plentiful but still form an important part of a subsistence diet for communities in the basin. Along the coastal zones of the park, the Tlingit peoples hunted seals in Disenchantment and Icy Bays. These populations are thought to be declining and yet are still considered an integral part of the Tlingit subsistence diet. Other mammals exist in the Copper River Basin that forms much of the lowlands around the southwestern side of the park and preserve.
The park and preserve encompasses four mountain ranges including nine of the 16 tallest peaks in the United States. The four ranges, the Chugach along the southern coast; the Wrangell in the south central region; the Saint Elias that crosses into Canada; and the end of the Alaska Range on the northern borders, include some of the world’s largest glaciers and North America’s most remote wilderness.
The park’s coastal resources include the Yakutat area (Icy and Disenchantment Bays) and the Malaspina Forelands. Wrangell-St. Elias has over 1,000 acres of inter-tidal communities and over 125 miles of coastline.
The 61-mile McCarthy Road offers Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve visitors a unique opportunity to explore the wilderness of interior Alaska. National and historic wonders await those visitors willing to accept travel and access on Alaskan terms. Driving this road is an Alaskan adventure. Its gravel and dirt surface makes for slow travel-it can take 3 hours or more. At the end of the road, you will find parking areas and two foot bridges that cross the Kennicott River and lead to McCarthy and Kennecott. Access to McCarthy is by foot, bike, or shuttle. Traveling the McCarthy road provides access to incredible hiking, fishing, and camping, as well as the wonderful historic communities of McCarthy and Kennecott.
Beyond Chitina, the 60-mile gravel road follows the abandoned Copper River and Northwest Railway bed to the Kennicott River. You will experience spectacular views, high narrow bridges, dust, bumps, and real Alaska! Most people spend a minimum of two days exploring the McCarthy/Kennicott area. A Park Service kiosk is located 1 mile before the end of the road (mile 60). Primitive campsites and parking are available near the kiosk.
The Nabesna Road is a 42-mile gravel road from Slana to Nabesna that traverses the headwaters country of the Copper and Tanana drainages. It is a dusty, gravel, dead end road that is short on services but big on wilderness! The Nabesna Road offers Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve visitors a unique opportunity to explore interior Alaska. The drive is an adventure in the midst of the Wrangell, Mentasta and Nutzotin Mountains. Camping, hiking, wildlife viewing, fishing and hunting are just a sampling of the activities available just off of the road.
Begin your journey on the motor trail, Nabesna Road, by stopping at the Slana Ranger Station, mile .5, to check current road conditions and to pick up a Nabesna Road Guide brochure. Generally the road is passable by most 2-wheel drive vehicles. Occasionally, higher clearance is advised beyond mile 29 due to stream crossings. The maintained portion of the road ends at a private hunting lodge at mile 42. The road offers access to lowland tundra, habitat for moose, caribou, wolves and bear. The clear creeks and lakes are teaming with waterfowl and fish. The abrupt highlands of the Mentasta and Wrangell Mountains offer opportunities to spot Dall Sheep. Activities such as hiking, camping, fishing, mountain biking, flight seeing, and hunting are available. Backcountry access by off-road vehicles on established trails is allowed with a permit obtained from the Slana Ranger Station. Hikers may venture out on the trails but need to keep in mind that trails can be very muddy. Better hiking is available on the trails and routes that lead into the Mentasta Mountains north of the road or past mile 36. Another option for backpackers is to contract a short flight into the high country with an air taxi.
A hiking trip can be an exciting and rewarding wilderness experience if you are prepared for the difficulties and hazards of traveling through rugged, undeveloped land. Here, you will experience solitude, self-reliance, and unaltered nature to an extent seldom found elsewhere. Because there are very few maintained trails within the park, travel through dense brush, along steep scree slopes, and across fast and cold glacial streams and rivers should be expected.
For your fishing pleasure, when hot weather increases water temperatures then insect activity should be at its peak for the fly fishing enthusiast. Mayfly, stonefly and caddis imitations will take even the wariest grayling. The Gulkana River is a good place to try when the king salmon season winds down resulting in fewer salmon fishermen on the river. Fishing behind rocks and next to cut banks should produce the best results. Another good place to try is the Little Nelchina River on the Glenn Highway. Lake trout have moved into deeper water and trolling with large spoons and plugs with downriggers will be necessary to get the lure to the proper depth. Large colored jigs are also good bounced off the bottom. Paxson and Summit lakes, as well as the Tyone River drainage lakes of Lake Louise, Susitina and Tyone lakes are the primary lake trout fisheries in the area. Lakes stocked with rainbow trout to try are Van, Silver and Sculpin lakes off the McCarthy Road, Ryan, Tex Smith and Buffalo lakes off the Glenn Highway, Crater, Old Road and Round lakes off the Lake Louise Road and Squirrel Creek Pit and Pippin Lake on the Richardson Highway. Slow, erratically retrieved flies and small spoons or spinner’s are among the most productive lures. Fishing with salmon eggs suspended from a bobber can be equally productive. All 5 species of Pacific salmon are found within the Park; king (chinook) salmon, silver (coho) salmon, red (sockeye) salmon, pink (humpy) salmon and chum (dog) salmon. Kokanee salmon are also found in Copper Lake, but there is little opportunity in the park itself to catch salmon. The best place for kings and reds is the Gulkana River. Grayling, whitefish, Dolly Varden, lake trout, rainbow/steelhead trout, cutthroat trout, sculpin, burbot, lamprey, smelts, and suckers are all found in the park. You will need an Alaskan fishing license for anyone over 16 years of age.
Mountain biking opportunities are limited in Wrangell-St. Elias. Lack of maintained roads and rough, boggy conditions make riding difficult. Both the McCarthy and Nabesna Roads are appropriate for mountain bikes. Both offer spectacular scenery. Bikers should be prepared for wet, muddy, dusty, uneven, and rocky biking conditions. Dry creek beds along the Nabesna Road suitable for mountain biking include Lost Creek and Trail Creek. Suggested routes along the McCarthy Road include the Kotsina Road and the Nugget Creek Trail. From McCarthy one can ride to the ghost town of kennicott and to the Nizina River. There are also a number of trails in the Glennallen, Copper Center-Chitina area that you might also enjoy.
Sport hunting is only allowed within the national preserve and must be conducted in accordance with Alaska State Law. An Alaska State hunting license is required for all hunters age 16 or older. Bag and possession limits vary by species and by area. Always check current hunting regulations. Off-road vehicles (ORV), including all-terrain vehicles (ATV), may be used on established routes only. Sport hunters are required to obtain ORV permits at any Ranger Station or the Park Headquarters. Hunters and trappers using the park and preserve should be familiar with the park and preserve boundaries and regulations concerning the use of areas. Maps can be obtained from the park upon request. There are opportunities to hunt bear, Dall sheep, mountain goat, muskoxen, moose, waterfowl, and caribou.
Since 1900, four huge tidewater glaciers have retreated to form Icy Bay on the coast of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve. The protected, blue waters surrounded by spectacular glacial scenery and an abundance of wildlife are ideal for sea kayaking. The coastline of the park stretches 150 miles from Icy Bay (approximately 40 miles north of Yakutat). Most of this coastline is wild and exposed to the open waters of the Gulf of Alaska or Yakutat Bay except for the relatively calm waters within Icy Bay. Icy Bay is composed of four separate fjords resulting from the retreat of Guyot, Yahtse and Tyndall Glaciers. It is a dynamic glacial system. Calving tidewater glaciers, icebergs and barren rugged landscapes are predominant in the northern portion of the bay. Most kayakers access Icy Bay by chartering a small bush plane to drop them off at Kageet Point on the eastern edge of Icy Bay or Pt. Riou, located on Chugach Alaska Native Corporation land southeast of Icy Bay. Before flying into Pt. Riou, visitors should request permission by writing Chugach Alaska Corporation, 560 E. 34th Ave., Suite 200, Anchorage, AK 99503. Since access to Icy Bay is restricted to small bush planes only, most parties use collapsible kayaks. A few parties have traveled from Cordova and Yakutat by hard shell kayak. This requires traveling across the rough, open waters of the Gulf of Alaska and is not recommended. At this time, there are no folding kayaks available for rent in the area. Permits are not required for private trips although voluntary backcountry registration is recommended for your safety. Contact the Yakutat Ranger Station for forms.
Winters are cold and dark, with nighttime temperatures dropping to possibly 50 below zero! Average daily high temperature is from 5 to 7 degrees. Days are usually clear and northern lights dance overhead on most nights. Average snow cover in winter is two feet. In the spring, clear skies, increasingly longer days, and warming temperatures break winter’s hold on the land with dramatic quickness. Average highs are 40-50. Lows may still dip into the teens and single digits. Wildflowers and mosquitoes peak in June and July. Consider bringing a head-net. June and July are also the warmest months, with highs reaching near 80 on some days, but it can snow any month of the year in the high-country. The prime backcountry season is June 20 to August 20 due to snow depths at higher elevations. Drizzling rains are not uncommon throughout the summer and, in general, rainfall increases in August and September, especially along the coast. Fall can be delightfully clear, spectacular, and mosquito-free, but the season is short. Be prepared for rain, because September is sometimes cool and wet.
Current Park Weather[/DDET
While driving the McCarthy Road, please drive slowly as traffic and weather may create ruts and washboard effects. In places, old railroad ties may surface along with anchoring spikes creating unexpected hazards. The road is narrow in places and slower moving traffic is encouraged to allowing passing at road turnouts. Also, be aware that there is private property all along the roadway. Please respect land owner rights. Under normal summer conditions, most two-wheel drive vehicles can make the trip. In wet weather, the road often becomes muddy and slippery. Portions of the road may be subject to washouts after heavy rains. Soft shoulders have led to numerous accidents and vehicle damage. Most major car rental companies in Anchorage do not let renters drive vehicles on the McCarthy Road. Several of the discount and independent rental companies do. Some may have added expense or requirements for such a rental. You should carry at least one spare tire and an adequate car jack. Allow a minimum of three hours for each leg of the trip.
For most hiking and backpacking routes,topographic map and compass reading skills are essential. Weather in these vast and spectacular mountain ranges can vary to extremes in relatively short time periods. It is best to expect (and prepare for) almost any possibility with a variety of layerable clothing (polypropylene, wool or pile), raingear and extra food. Summer snow storms may occur at elevations of 4,500 feet and above. Also bring: tent with rainfly, sleeping bag, plastic bag to keep equipment and clothes dry, mosquito net or repellent, campstove, first aid kit, matches, signal mirror or whistle, GSP, good hiking boots, extra socks, flashlight, water filtering system, and extra batteries.
A successful hiking trip requires adequate planning. You should be prepared for everything and should not count on aid or rescue from others. Here, you will be on your own. Caution and good judgment are key ingredients for a pleasant expedition. For many hikers, hiring the services of a local guide will make the trip safer and more enjoyable. In general, the areas above tree line approximately 3000′ afford the easiest hiking and best views. These areas are often accessed by chartering a flight to one of the many possible “bush” landing strips.
On topographical maps, be aware that many of the historic trails shown on older U.S.G.S. maps are often non-existent or overgrown. If you prefer not to see others on your trip, ask a ranger or pilot about some of the lesser known areas. Be flexible and prepared for alternative destinations. Your air taxi or the Park Service may know of high water conditions, wildlife hazards or overcrowding in an area and may encourage you to choose an alternative at the last minute.
Backcountry permits are not required, but travelers are encouraged to complete a “Backcountry Itinerary” available at any park office. Additionally, leave your route and expected time of return with a friend or family member. If you fail to check in from a backcountry trip, rangers will not initiate a search until a specific request from a friend or family member is made. If you are flying in or out of a remote airstrip, your pilot will be your main communication link to safety. Be sure to discuss “what if” scenarios with your pilot before you are dropped off. Carry food for several extra days in case of unexpected delays. Assistance may be days or miles away, so be extraordinarily careful in this vast region.
Ask park rangers or local residents about weather conditions and the reasonableness of trying to reach certain points. Walking across the spruce muskeg with a pack or crossing rivers can take much more time than expected. From a distance the landscape may look like easy hiking, but place a foot in it and you quickly find out the land tests your endurance as you hop from tussock to tussock and try to avoid hidden pools of water. While planning your trips, remember that there are very few actual “trails” like you may find in other tame national parks in the lower 48. Here you will mainly find rugged, un-maintained “routes” over which you may only be able to travel a few miles in a day.
For kayakers, remember these tips. The weather in the area is extremely wet. Overcast days and rain predominate. The area averages over 134 inches of rain a year with most of it falling August through November. May-July are the best months for kayaking. The water temperatures of Icy Bay vary from 34 to 42 degrees F (1.1 to 5.6 degrees C). Icebergs and ice flows block various parts of Icy Bay throughout the year, especially in May and June. Kayaks can slowly push through the smaller ice pieces safely, but the larger icebergs are potentially dangerous and may break up or turn over without warning. Stay at least 1/2 miles (.8 kilometers) away from the face of a glacier due to unpredictable calving of ice, both below the water and above. Calving icebergs can create large waves that wash up high onto nearby shores. Kayakers should keep this in mind when going ashore in the vicinity of a glacier. Also, please be aware that the ice flows in the area provide habitat for harbor seals and their newborn pups in May and June. Please keep your distance from seals using ice flows during these critical months.
Since 1900, there has been extensive mineral exploration and development within the Wrangell-St. Elias / Chugach Mountains area. Numerous abandoned and inactive mineral properties are scattered throughout the park and preserve. Hazards exist at these sites. Visitors should use extreme caution and avoid abandoned mineral properties. Explosives, mine openings, unsafe structures and toxic chemicals may be present. Many inactive mineral sites are privately owned. Please check the land status before planning a trip.
Today the Park manages subsistence hunts within its boundaries, several large ungulate populations including native caribou, moose, Dall sheep and introduced bison. In addition, the Park is home to wolf, lynx, coyote, wolverine, and numerous small mammals. Surprisingly, while winter temperatures can dip as low as minus 50 degrees Fahrenheit, there is a healthy population of dragonflies that prey on the abundant mosquitoes and flies, while wood frogs bounce among deep lichen beds. Spring comes rapidly and with the breakup of the winter snow and ice, Lynceads (blue butterflies) and Colias (yellow butterflies) crowd the seeps and damp areas. Larger fritillaries (orange and black butterflies) compete with the regal Wideymeyer’s admiral–a large circumpolar member of the Papiolonids (swallowtails) that over winter as adults and claim large territories in the early spring.
These coastal waters support an abundance of fish, invertebrates and algae that provide a food base for a variety of marine mammals such as harbor seals (Phoca vitulina), Stellar’s sea lions (Eumetopias jubatus), sea otters (Lontra canadensis), Dall porpoises (Phocoena dalli), and Orcas (Orcinus orca).
The Wrangell’s contain two passerine migratory routes that pass through the park and an abundance of coastal bird communities near Yakutat and Icy Bay. There are records for 239 species of birds in the park with approximately 53 species listed as residents. Migratory bird species present a challenge for park monitoring goals. Many of the migrants have impacts throughout their home ranges that may stretch from pole to pole. The Arctic warbler (Phylloscopus borealis), a neotropical migrant, is known to occur in Wrangell yet it winters in southeast Asia. Exotic species have also made their appearance in the park—the European starling (Sturnus vulgaris) has been recorded several times in the park area.
Several species of loons, shorebirds and waterfowl are also found on ponds and wetlands scattered throughout the study area, but do not depend on forested habitats. The coastal areas of Wrangell-St. Elias contain a variety of additional species, including: Kittlitz’s, ancient and marbled murrelets; harlequin ducks; black and white-winged scoters; arctic, common, and Caspian terns; parasitic and Pomarine jaegers; numerous gulls; black and pigeon guillemots; black oystercatchers. Icy Bay and the Malaspina Forelands contain an important population of Kittlitz’s murrelets, a declining species that has been petitioned for listing under the Endangered Species Act.
Grayling, whitefish, Dolly Varden, lake trout, rainbow/steelhead trout, cutthroat trout, sculpin, burbot, lamprey, smelts, suckers are found in the park. All 5 species of Pacific salmon are found within the Park; king (chinook) salmon, silver (coho) salmon, red (sockeye) salmon, pink (humpy) salmon and chum (dog) salmon. Kokanee salmon are also found in Copper Lake. The Copper River and most of its tributaries are migration routes for sockeye, coho, chum, and king salmon in Wrangell and are an important subsistence fisheries within the park’s boundaries.
Alaska is bear country! Brown/grizzly bears are found from the islands of southeastern Alaska to the arctic. Black bears inhabit most of Alaska’s forests. Most bears tend to avoid people. In most cases, if you give a bear the opportunity to do the right thing, it will. Many bears live in Alaska and many people enjoy the outdoors, but surprisingly few people even see bears. Most people who see a bear in the wild consider it the highlight of their trip. The presence of these majestic creatures is a reminder of how privileged we are to share some of the country’s dwindling wilderness.
Bears are curious, intelligent and potentially dangerous animals, but undue fear of bears can endanger both bears and people. Many bears are killed each year by people who are afraid of them. Respecting bears and learning proper behavior in their territory will help so that if you encounter a bear, neither of you will suffer needlessly from the experience.
Cook away from your tent. Store all food away from your campsite. Hang food out of reach of bears if possible. If no trees are available, store your food in airtight or specially designed bear-proof containers. Remember, pets and their food may also attract bears.
Keep a clean camp. Wash your dishes. Avoid smelly food like bacon and smoked fish. Keep food smells off your clothing. Burn your garbage completely in a hot fire and pack out the remains. Food and garbage are equally attractive to a bear so treat them with equal care. Burying garbage is a waste of time. Bears have keen noses and are great diggers.
See Wildlife Precautions page for further information on bears and moose.
There are no fees for this park.
There are no formal National Park Service campgrounds in Wrangell-St.Elias at this time. Along the Richardson and Edgerton Highways, there are a wealth of private campgrounds and lodging facilities.
Virtually unlimited backcountry camping is available. Many visitors simply make camp on public land along the McCarthy and Nabesna Roads. Please practice the Leave-No-Trace rules.
The nearest major airport is located in Anchorage. It is approximately a 4-hour drive to park headquarters in Copper Center/Glennallen. Local air taxis and flight seeing tours leave from the airstrips in Glennallen, McCarthy, and Chitina.
Although you can view the park’s mountains from along the Richardson Highway, Glenn Highway, and Edgerton Highway, there are only two gravel roads that actually enter the park. The Nabesna Road (42 miles long) begins at Slana and offers spectacular scenery and access to a seldom seen, wild corner of Alaska. The McCarthy Road (60 miles long) begins at Chitina, follows an old rail bed, and ends at the historic communities of McCarthy and kennicott. Check on current road conditions at a ranger station, be prepared for slow travel, and have a good spare tire before setting out. Be aware that some car rental companies prohibit clients from accessing these roads.
Approximate Mileage from the following major cities to Wrangell-St. Elias National Park:
By Car:
Anchorage, AK – 245.38 miles
Palmer, AK – 202.94 miles
Wasilla, AK – 215.74 miles
Sterling, AK – 379.37 miles
Soldotna, AK – 390.55 miles
Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve, 106.8 Richardson Hwy. PO Box 439, Copper Center, AK 99573-0439
Headquarters Copper Center (907) 822-5234
Nabesna District Ranger Station (907) 822-5238
Chitina District Ranger Station (907) 823-2205
Yakutat Ranger Station (907) 784-3295
Map[/DDE
While driving the McCarthy Road, please drive slowly as traffic and weather may create ruts and washboard effects. In places, old railroad ties may surface along with anchoring spikes creating unexpected hazards. The road is narrow in places and slower moving traffic is encouraged to allowing passing at road turnouts. Also, be aware that there is private property all along the roadway. Please respect land owner rights. Under normal summer conditions, most two-wheel drive vehicles can make the trip. In wet weather, the road often becomes muddy and slippery. Portions of the road may be subject to washouts after heavy rains. Soft shoulders have led to numerous accidents and vehicle damage. Most major car rental companies in Anchorage do not let renters drive vehicles on the McCarthy Road. Several of the discount and independent rental companies do. Some may have added expense or requirements for such a rental. You should carry at least one spare tire and an adequate car jack. Allow a minimum of three hours for each leg of the trip.
For most hiking and backpacking routes,topographic map and compass reading skills are essential. Weather in these vast and spectacular mountain ranges can vary to extremes in relatively short time periods. It is best to expect (and prepare for) almost any possibility with a variety of layerable clothing (polypropylene, wool or pile), raingear and extra food. Summer snow storms may occur at elevations of 4,500 feet and above. Also bring: tent with rainfly, sleeping bag, plastic bag to keep equipment and clothes dry, mosquito net or repellent, campstove, first aid kit, matches, signal mirror or whistle, GSP, good hiking boots, extra socks, flashlight, water filtering system, and extra batteries.
A successful hiking trip requires adequate planning. You should be prepared for everything and should not count on aid or rescue from others. Here, you will be on your own. Caution and good judgment are key ingredients for a pleasant expedition. For many hikers, hiring the services of a local guide will make the trip safer and more enjoyable. In general, the areas above tree line approximately 3000′ afford the easiest hiking and best views. These areas are often accessed by chartering a flight to one of the many possible “bush” landing strips.
On topographical maps, be aware that many of the historic trails shown on older U.S.G.S. maps are often non-existent or overgrown. If you prefer not to see others on your trip, ask a ranger or pilot about some of the lesser known areas. Be flexible and prepared for alternative destinations. Your air taxi or the Park Service may know of high water conditions, wildlife hazards or overcrowding in an area and may encourage you to choose an alternative at the last minute.
Backcountry permits are not required, but travelers are encouraged to complete a “Backcountry Itinerary” available at any park office. Additionally, leave your route and expected time of return with a friend or family member. If you fail to check in from a backcountry trip, rangers will not initiate a search until a specific request from a friend or family member is made. If you are flying in or out of a remote airstrip, your pilot will be your main communication link to safety. Be sure to discuss “what if” scenarios with your pilot before you are dropped off. Carry food for several extra days in case of unexpected delays. Assistance may be days or miles away, so be extraordinarily careful in this vast region.
Ask park rangers or local residents about weather conditions and the reasonableness of trying to reach certain points. Walking across the spruce muskeg with a pack or crossing rivers can take much more time than expected. From a distance the landscape may look like easy hiking, but place a foot in it and you quickly find out the land tests your endurance as you hop from tussock to tussock and try to avoid hidden pools of water. While planning your trips, remember that there are very few actual “trails” like you may find in other tame national parks in the lower 48. Here you will mainly find rugged, un-maintained “routes” over which you may only be able to travel a few miles in a day.
For kayakers, remember these tips. The weather in the area is extremely wet. Overcast days and rain predominate. The area averages over 134 inches of rain a year with most of it falling August through November. May-July are the best months for kayaking. The water temperatures of Icy Bay vary from 34 to 42 degrees F (1.1 to 5.6 degrees C). Icebergs and ice flows block various parts of Icy Bay throughout the year, especially in May and June. Kayaks can slowly push through the smaller ice pieces safely, but the larger icebergs are potentially dangerous and may break up or turn over without warning. Stay at least 1/2 miles (.8 kilometers) away from the face of a glacier due to unpredictable calving of ice, both below the water and above. Calving icebergs can create large waves that wash up high onto nearby shores. Kayakers should keep this in mind when going ashore in the vicinity of a glacier. Also, please be aware that the ice flows in the area provide habitat for harbor seals and their newborn pups in May and June. Please keep your distance from seals using ice flows during these critical months.
Since 1900, there has been extensive mineral exploration and development within the Wrangell-St. Elias / Chugach Mountains area. Numerous abandoned and inactive mineral properties are scattered throughout the park and preserve. Hazards exist at these sites. Visitors should use extreme caution and avoid abandoned mineral properties. Explosives, mine openings, unsafe structures and toxic chemicals may be present. Many inactive mineral sites are privately owned. Please check the land status before planning a trip.
Today the Park manages subsistence hunts within its boundaries, several large ungulate populations including native caribou, moose, Dall sheep and introduced bison. In addition, the Park is home to wolf, lynx, coyote, wolverine, and numerous small mammals. Surprisingly, while winter temperatures can dip as low as minus 50 degrees Fahrenheit, there is a healthy population of dragonflies that prey on the abundant mosquitoes and flies, while wood frogs bounce among deep lichen beds. Spring comes rapidly and with the breakup of the winter snow and ice, Lynceads (blue butterflies) and Colias (yellow butterflies) crowd the seeps and damp areas. Larger fritillaries (orange and black butterflies) compete with the regal Wideymeyer’s admiral–a large circumpolar member of the Papiolonids (swallowtails) that over winter as adults and claim large territories in the early spring.
These coastal waters support an abundance of fish, invertebrates and algae that provide a food base for a variety of marine mammals such as harbor seals (Phoca vitulina), Stellar’s sea lions (Eumetopias jubatus), sea otters (Lontra canadensis), Dall porpoises (Phocoena dalli), and Orcas (Orcinus orca).
The Wrangell’s contain two passerine migratory routes that pass through the park and an abundance of coastal bird communities near Yakutat and Icy Bay. There are records for 239 species of birds in the park with approximately 53 species listed as residents. Migratory bird species present a challenge for park monitoring goals. Many of the migrants have impacts throughout their home ranges that may stretch from pole to pole. The Arctic warbler (Phylloscopus borealis), a neotropical migrant, is known to occur in Wrangell yet it winters in southeast Asia. Exotic species have also made their appearance in the park—the European starling (Sturnus vulgaris) has been recorded several times in the park area.
Several species of loons, shorebirds and waterfowl are also found on ponds and wetlands scattered throughout the study area, but do not depend on forested habitats. The coastal areas of Wrangell-St. Elias contain a variety of additional species, including: Kittlitz’s, ancient and marbled murrelets; harlequin ducks; black and white-winged scoters; arctic, common, and Caspian terns; parasitic and Pomarine jaegers; numerous gulls; black and pigeon guillemots; black oystercatchers. Icy Bay and the Malaspina Forelands contain an important population of Kittlitz’s murrelets, a declining species that has been petitioned for listing under the Endangered Species Act.
Grayling, whitefish, Dolly Varden, lake trout, rainbow/steelhead trout, cutthroat trout, sculpin, burbot, lamprey, smelts, suckers are found in the park. All 5 species of Pacific salmon are found within the Park; king (chinook) salmon, silver (coho) salmon, red (sockeye) salmon, pink (humpy) salmon and chum (dog) salmon. Kokanee salmon are also found in Copper Lake. The Copper River and most of its tributaries are migration routes for sockeye, coho, chum, and king salmon in Wrangell and are an important subsistence fisheries within the park’s boundaries.
Alaska is bear country! Brown/grizzly bears are found from the islands of southeastern Alaska to the arctic. Black bears inhabit most of Alaska’s forests. Most bears tend to avoid people. In most cases, if you give a bear the opportunity to do the right thing, it will. Many bears live in Alaska and many people enjoy the outdoors, but surprisingly few people even see bears. Most people who see a bear in the wild consider it the highlight of their trip. The presence of these majestic creatures is a reminder of how privileged we are to share some of the country’s dwindling wilderness.
Bears are curious, intelligent and potentially dangerous animals, but undue fear of bears can endanger both bears and people. Many bears are killed each year by people who are afraid of them. Respecting bears and learning proper behavior in their territory will help so that if you encounter a bear, neither of you will suffer needlessly from the experience.
Cook away from your tent. Store all food away from your campsite. Hang food out of reach of bears if possible. If no trees are available, store your food in airtight or specially designed bear-proof containers. Remember, pets and their food may also attract bears.
Keep a clean camp. Wash your dishes. Avoid smelly food like bacon and smoked fish. Keep food smells off your clothing. Burn your garbage completely in a hot fire and pack out the remains. Food and garbage are equally attractive to a bear so treat them with equal care. Burying garbage is a waste of time. Bears have keen noses and are great diggers.
See Wildlife Precautions page for further information on bears and moose.
There are no fees for this park.
There are no formal National Park Service campgrounds in Wrangell-St.Elias at this time. Along the Richardson and Edgerton Highways, there are a wealth of private campgrounds and lodging facilities.
Virtually unlimited backcountry camping is available. Many visitors simply make camp on public land along the McCarthy and Nabesna Roads. Please practice the Leave-No-Trace rules.
The nearest major airport is located in Anchorage. It is approximately a 4-hour drive to park headquarters in Copper Center/Glennallen. Local air taxis and flight seeing tours leave from the airstrips in Glennallen, McCarthy, and Chitina.
Although you can view the park’s mountains from along the Richardson Highway, Glenn Highway, and Edgerton Highway, there are only two gravel roads that actually enter the park. The Nabesna Road (42 miles long) begins at Slana and offers spectacular scenery and access to a seldom seen, wild corner of Alaska. The McCarthy Road (60 miles long) begins at Chitina, follows an old rail bed, and ends at the historic communities of McCarthy and kennicott. Check on current road conditions at a ranger station, be prepared for slow travel, and have a good spare tire before setting out. Be aware that some car rental companies prohibit clients from accessing these roads.
Approximate Mileage from the following major cities to Wrangell-St. Elias National Park:
By Car:
Anchorage, AK – 245.38 miles
Palmer, AK – 202.94 miles
Wasilla, AK – 215.74 miles
Sterling, AK – 379.37 miles
Soldotna, AK – 390.55 miles
Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve, 106.8 Richardson Hwy. PO Box 439, Copper Center, AK 99573-0439
Headquarters Copper Center (907) 822-5234
Nabesna District Ranger Station (907) 822-5238
Chitina District Ranger Station (907) 823-2205
Yakutat Ranger Station (907) 784-3295
[DDET + Mapquest]
