Theodore Roosevelt National Park

Theodore Roosevelt National Park

Theodore Roosevelt National Park

North and South units are in western North Dakota

Theodore Roosevelt National Park, located in the North Dakota badlands, offers outdoor adventure for the whole family. Named after one of the greatest presidential conservationists, you will see lots of wildlife and a wide variety of plants. There is also hiking, backpacking, horseback riding, mountain biking, historical buildings and canoeing. Continue reading for further Theodore Roosevelt National Park information.

Uniqueness

Here in the North Dakota badlands, where many of his personal concerns first gave rise to his later environmental efforts, Roosevelt is remembered with a national park that bears his name and honors the memory of this great conservationist. Theodore Roosevelt National Park is in the colorful North Dakota badlands and is home to a variety of plants and animals, including bison, prairie dogs, and elk.

Roosevelt first came to the badlands in September 1883 on a hunting trip. While here he became interested in the cattle business and invested in the Maltese Cross Ranch. He returned the next year and established the Elkhorn Ranch.

Whenever he managed to spend time in the badlands, he became more and more alarmed by the damage that was being done to the land and its wildlife. He witnessed the virtual destruction of some big game species, such as bison and bighorn sheep. Overgrazing destroyed the grasslands and with them the habitats for small mammals and songbirds. Conservation increasingly became one of Roosevelt’s major concerns. During his Presidency, Roosevelt established the US Forest Service and signed the 1906 Antiquities Act under which he proclaimed 18 national monuments. He also established 5 national parks, 51 wildlife refuges and 150 national forests.

The park contains 100+ miles of trails. Some are short walks (under 1 mile) and others are longer (16 miles). Take a hike and experience the same wild beauty and solitude of the badlands that captivated Theodore Roosevelt more than a century ago. Exploring the park’s backcountry in the winter can be an exciting and rewarding experience. It also offers new challenges in meeting the environment on its own terms.

There are many things to see and do at the park. Don’t miss Theodore Roosevelt’s Maltese Cross Cabin which is located behind the Medora Visitor Center. The cabin is open for self-guided tours from September through May. Park summer interpretive programs showcase the park’s natural and cultural history. Included are talks, evening programs, walks, and hikes. Join a ranger at the campfire circle in Cottonwood Campground and Juniper Campground to learn about a different aspect of your National Park. They are offered nearly every evening from mid-June to Labor Day. The Medora Visitor Center contains a museum on the natural and cultural history of the park. There is a special emphasis on Theodore Roosevelt and ranching. Of course, for the kids there’s the Junior Ranger Program and a chance to become a member of the Theodore Roosevelt National Park Badlands Club.

Theodore Roosevelt National Park preserves a wealth of geologic information that can be enjoyed by visitors and studied by scientists. Much of that information tells us about events that occurred long ago, while some small-scale processes can be seen occurring over days, weeks, months, or even years. Just a short visit here can give visitors insight into the past, instill wonder, and inspire questions and a desire to learn more. You are welcome to explore the park and make your own discoveries about the rocks and fossils found here.

Theodore Roosevelt National Park is a 70,446-acre park in three units. A variety of habitats make up the park, including native prairie, north- and south-facing slopes, hardwood and juniper draws, sagebrush flats, and undisturbed Little Missouri River bottomland forest. On April 25, 1947, after several compromises, President Truman signed the bill (PL-38) that created Theodore Roosevelt National Memorial Park. This included lands that roughly make up the South Unit and the Elkhorn Ranch site today. The North Unit was added to the memorial park on June 12, 1948. As a memorial park, it was the only one of its kind in the National Park System. Eventually, in addition to a connection with a president, the land was recognized for its diverse cultural and natural resources. On November 10, 1978, the area was given national park status when President Carter signed Public Law 95-625 that changed the memorial park to Theodore Roosevelt National Park. This same law placed 29,920 acres of the park under the National Wilderness Preservation System.

The Maltese Cross Ranch cabin where Theodore Roosevelt lived was originally located about seven miles south of Medora in the wooded bottom-lands of the Little Missouri River. At Roosevelt’s request ranch managers Sylvane Ferris and Bill Merrifield built a one and one-half story cabin complete with a shingle roof and cellar. Constructed of durable ponderosa pine logs that had been cut and floated down the Little Missouri River, the cabin was considered somewhat of a “mansion” in its day, with wooden floors and three separate rooms (kitchen, living room and Roosevelt’s bedroom). The steeply pitched roof, an oddity on the northern plains, created an upstairs sleeping loft for the ranch hands. During Roosevelt’s presidency, the Maltese Cross cabin was exhibited in Portland, Oregon and St. Louis. It was then moved to the state capitol grounds in Bismarck. In 1959, the cabin was relocated to its present site and renovated. The most recent preservation work occurred in 2000. A number of items in the cabin today belonged to Theodore Roosevelt. Those that did not are from the same time period and would be typical furnishings of the day.

The Maah Daah Hey Trail is a 96 mile hiking, horseback and mountain bicycle trail that traverses through the scenic and rugged North Dakota badlands. The trail passes through the Little Missouri National Grasslands, as well as State and private land, as it connects the North and South Units of Theodore Roosevelt National Park. The trail begins at Sully Creek State Park, located south of Medora (Interstate 94, exit 24) in Billings County. The trail winds its way to its northern terminus at the U.S. Forest Service CCC Campground in McKenzie County, located 20 miles south of Watford City off Highway 85.

The trail name, “Maah Daah Hey”, comes from the Mandan Indians and means “an area that has been or will be around for a long time.” The turtle is used as the trail marker. The turtle was chosen because of its firm determination, steadfastness, patience, long life and fortitude. The Maah Daah Hey trail traverses an area of highly dissected badlands surrounded by large expanses of gently rolling prairie. This area of North Dakota provides prime habitat for a variety of mammals and birds. Mule deer and coyotes are often sighted, while an occasional golden eagle or prairie falcon may be spotted soaring above. Bighorn sheep and elk have been reintroduced into the area and can be spotted by keen observers. In addition, bison and feral horses roam the range in Theodore Roosevelt National Park. The trail is open for use all year, but at various times of the year, the trail may be impassable due to mud, snow, ice, and high water. Since users of the Maah Daah Hey Trail will share the same space with horseback riders, hikers and bicyclists, users will be expected to respect the rights of others. Bicycles are NOT allowed on the trail as it passes through Theodore Roosevelt National Park. They may not be ridden or carried. Riders need to contact the U.S. Forest Service for alternative routes around the park boundary. Park entrance fee must be paid at either the South Unit or North Unit Visitor Center. A free permit is required for overnight camping.

The North Unit has many hiking trails. Along the park road are a number of trail heads. Some are self-guiding nature trails. Any trail will help you gain an understanding of this land and its wildlife. There are six trails: Little Mo Nature Trail, Achenbach Trail, Caprock Coulee Nature Trail, Upper Caprock Coulee Trail, Buckhorn Trail, and Sperati Point. These range in length of 1.10 mi. to 16 miles round trip. Things to be seen are river woodlands and badlands, Oxbow Overlook along the way by a spur trail, and a prairie dog town where the black-tailed prairie dog lives within the park.

The South Unit offers several hiking trails as well. A few are Ridgeline Nature Trail, Coal Vein Trail, Buck Hill, Wind Canyon, Painted Canyon Nature Trail and many more. These range in lengths of very short walks to 7 mile hikes. Things to be seen are where a fire burned in a coal seam for many years and greatly altered the terrain, the wind-sculpted sands of the canyon, and numerous creek and wash crossings.

Theodore Roosevelt National Park is open to horse use. Visitors may bring their own horses or take rides with the park concessionaire. The park trail system, except for developed nature trails, is open to horse use. Cross-country horseback travel is also allowed. Horses are not allowed on park roadways, in developed campgrounds, picnic areas or on developed nature trails. You may bring your horse and do some back country camping.

All roads in the park are open to cyclists. The park roads follow the contours of the badlands allowing riders to enjoy the park close up. Off-road cycling is not allowed in the park. All bicycles must remain on paved or dirt roads. Bicyclists should exercise caution as they ride in the park; they will share the narrow roads with large RVs and other vehicles. Traffic is heaviest in June, July and August and Road shoulders are absent in some places. Bicyclists must obey all traffic laws. Use caution around bison and all wildlife.

A float trip down the Little Missouri River is an ideal way to experience the beauty and solitude of the North Dakota Badlands. It takes about three or four days to canoe the 110 miles between Medora near the South Unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park and Long X Bridge on U.S. Highway 85 near the park’s North Unit. Two days are needed to continue from Long X Bridge to Lost Bridge on State Highway 22 (Little Missouri Bay on Lake Sakakawea). The canoeing opportunities on the Little Missouri River are quite seasonal, primarily limited to the months of April, May and June. Canoeists intending to camp overnight in the park and outside of the developed campgrounds must obtain a backcountry use permit and observe backcountry regulations. Canoeists are advised to portage around the wildlife river barrier along the northern and southern boundaries of the South Unit. Attempting to cross under or through the barrier can result in overturning. Instead of carrying a portage, it is usually sufficient to step out of the canoe and drag it through the stretch of shallow water. Bring shoes adequate for wading and exercise caution to avoid drop-offs and soft bottoms. Fences cross the river outside the park. The use of outboard motors is permitted but not recommended because the channel is frequently too shallow for their use, and the river’s heavy silt load may destroy the engine’s water pumps after a very brief running time.

The Little Missouri River begins in Northeastern Wyoming near Devil’s Tower National Monument and meanders northward through Montana and into Southwestern North Dakota. It eventually flows into the Missouri River/ Lake Sakakawea after passing through the South Unit, by the Elkhorn Ranch Unit and through the North Unit of the park. The river is nicknamed the “Little Mo” and the “Little Muddy.” The water contains lots of silt and is usually cloudy. Fish include chubs, minnows, redhorses, carpsuckers, and catfish. On rare occasion’s walleye and fingerling pike are spotted. Sport fishing is limited to channel catfish, goldeyes and sauger, but the quantity and quality of these fishes is unpredictable. North Dakota state laws and license requirements apply. North Dakota regulations.

There are other animals to be seen in the park such as white-tailed deer, bobcats, badgers, beavers, pronghorns, and prairie dogs. Most of them will be seen early morning or evening. Consider yourself very lucky if you see a bobcat! Only two or three are seen each summer. Look for them on the barren rocky slopes, especially at night. When Roosevelt arrived in the North Dakota Badlands in 1883 for a hunting trip, not only was he struck by the beauty of the area but, as a naturalist, he also found the variety of birdlife exhilarating. Always check the sky for glimpses of soaring golden eagles along the river floodplain and at the North Unit’s River Bend Overlook. Bald Eagles migrate through the area each fall. Many different species of birds inhabit the park campgrounds where there is plenty of food and shelter in the thick brush and trees. Mornings and evenings provide the best viewing times.

Bison roam throughout the park and should be given a wide berth if met along the trail. Bison initially made their way to America by crossing the ancient land bridge that once connected Asia with the North American continent. During the ensuing centuries, the bison moved south and east, at one time ranging from Mexico to southern New England. The greatest concentration of these animals, however, was found in the prairies and plains where the peak number of bison has been estimated at between 40 and 60 million. Full-grown bulls weigh up to 2,000 pounds and stand six feet or more at the shoulder. Their massive heads, which are matted with a thick covering of wiry hair, hold a set of horns that are never shed. Bison are herbivores or plant eaters, and feed primarily on wheat grass, buffalo grass, blue grama, and other similar grasses. Though they generally have poor eyesight, bison have excellent hearing and a keen sense of smell. Bison reach maturity at seven or eight years of age and may live to the ripe old age of thirty.

The start of the westward expansion movement in the 1830s marked the beginning of the end for the great bison herds. Between 1830 and 1880, large-scale bison hunts were organized and hundreds of thousands of bison were killed for their hides. Thousands were killed just for their tongues, which were considered a delicacy. As many as 250 bison were shot in one day by one hunter, and a good skinner could remove the hide in five minutes. The years between 1870 and 1880 saw the height of the bison trade when as many as 250,000 hides were auctioned off in one or two days. By the turn of the twentieth century, less than 300 wild bison remained. If it were not for the foresight of a few individuals such as Theodore Roosevelt, the mighty bison could easily have become extinct. Warnings and attempts to protect the bison came as early as 1776, but it wasn’t until 1894 that the first federal legislation protecting this animal was enacted. Today, more than 125,000 bison roam the North American continent.

There are no approved drinking water sources in the backcountry! There are springs and wells, which supply water for wildlife, but none are certified safe for human consumption. Plan to carry in all your drinking water. Use the LEAVE NO TRACE principles. Collecting or possessing skulls, antlers and other animal parts is illegal.

Weather can be unpredictable and sometimes dangerous! Both summer and winter backcountry users must be prepared for rapid and often violent changes in the weather. Both winter storms and summer thunderstorms can build rapidly and be upon you in a very short time. Choose campsite wisely, flash floods do occur. Be prepared to protect yourself in severe weather, or plan on a hasty evacuation to a place of safety or shelter. Be properly equipped and knowledgeable about winter survival. Group leaders should verify the adequacy of their party’s equipment for survival and personal safety. Special attention should be given to footwear, outer clothing, sleeping gear, and stoves that are operable at low temperatures. Plan your trip. Know your limitations. Keep your group together. Be prepared for high temperatures during the summer, and protect yourself from the sun and the possibility of heat exhaustion or heat stroke. Ticks and poison ivy are also present.

Watch your footing! Backcountry trails are not routinely maintained. They may be rocky and their surfaces uneven, and during wet or freezing weather they will become slippery. Wear footgear with soles that grip and do not scramble on the steep badlands slopes unless you are sure of your footing. If you plan foot or horseback travel into the backcountry of the park, know your destination and the route you plan to follow. Although some trails are marked, you could possibly confuse a designated trail with a wildlife trail. Carry a park topographic map and compass. Wildlife trails are also frequently followed by hikers and horseback riders and are especially helpful in rugged terrain and in crossing creeks with steep banks. The openness of the terrain, along with easily identifiable features, is also a boon to those traveling cross-country. Leave trip itinerary with someone so they can contact us if you are overdue. Whether traveling cross-country or on an established trail, it is best not to travel alone in the backcountry. In the event of an accident or sudden illness, one or two members of a group can go for help while the others remain awaiting assistance.

Although the Little Missouri River and its tributaries are not fast flowing, they are sometimes subject to high water, especially during spring and early summer, and can be hazardous to ford. Most of the time they can be waded; however, a hiker or horseback rider should use caution because of areas with soft bottoms and deep channels or holes. Consult rangers as to good crossing sites.

With back country horseback riding observe these precautions. During rainstorms the ground and backcountry trails become extremely slippery, making it very difficult to travel by horseback or on foot. These conditions can make riding treacherous. When riding during these slippery conditions, try and avoid trails with no vegetation. Be aware of sudden changes to the Little Missouri River and the park’s creeks. They can become swollen and run bank to bank in a very short time. Never cross a swollen stream by horseback or on foot when these dangerous conditions exist. Before riding, inspect all horseback riding equipment for wear and stretching and be sure it is all securely fastened. Wear footwear that has a distinct heel and make sure the boot covers the ankle. Make sure your footwear has a smooth sole, so it can slide out of the stirrups easily. Always approach the shoulder of a horse, and announce your arrival by speaking to the horse. At all times keep your center of gravity as close as possible to that of the horse. Always hang on to your reins. When riding don’t relax too much, always be ready for the unexpected i.e.: your horse’s reaction to biting/stinging insects, snakes, and other foreign activities that could startle a horse. Helmets save lives! The park encourages the use of safety helmets for children.

With canoeing trips, follow these tips. Because the river winds through truly remote terrain, it is important that complete advance preparations be made for your trip. Temperatures and the amount of precipitation may vary widely in late spring, so clothing should be adequate for a broad range of climatic conditions. Clothes that retain warmth when wet, such as wool, are suggested. Hats and lotion for sun protection are a must. With the exception of Medora and park campgrounds, there are no reliable sources of drinking water along the route. Plan to carry an adequate supply of water and food with you, and don’t forget a first aid kit, spare paddles, and approved life preservers. Two other items that may help are a supply of large plastic bags for keeping your supplies waterproof (and for litter) and a bucket or big sponge to bail out water and mud. Local conditions should be checked before depending on access, and changes should be anticipated. It is recommended that all cooking be done on liquid or gas-fueled camp stoves. No open fires are permitted on park lands. Most of the land that boarders the river outside the park is private. Contact landowner in advance for permission to camp. If you plan to camp in the park at locations other than the designated campgrounds, you must obtain a free backcountry use permit at one of the park visitor centers. Campsite selection is sometimes difficult. On years when the river raises high enough to occupy the flood plain, a thick deposit of mud limits campsites to higher terraces adjacent to the banks. Also, after the channel is ice free early in the season, it is common to have large heaps of mud-covered ice slabs lining the shores.

Water levels vary daily. High water and easy canoeing one day can be a float trip with several portages the next. Wildlife barriers have been installed across the Little Missouri River where it enters and exits the South Unit of the park. Short portages around these fences that block the river are required. Also be aware that, on occasion, river users have reported wires and other temporary fences strung across the river outside of the park boundary. There were no warning signs to let boaters know of these upcoming fences.

Current Weather

Do not feed, frighten or disturb bison or other wildlife. Park animals are wild and even small creatures may react to protect their home or young, Do not approach any wild animal too closely. Be especially wary of bison. They can run up to 35 miles per hour and turn faster than a horse. People who get too close to them may be gored by antlers and horns or trampled or bitten by sharp teeth. Always stay well clear of these animals and give them the right-of-way. Do not ride horses closer than 100 yards to any bison. There are prairie rattlesnakes in the park. The rattlesnake will ignore or avoid us unless surprised or provoked. Do not attempt to capture or kill snakes. See the Wildlife Precautions page for further animal safety tips.

Drive slowly. Watch for animals crossing the road. Deer, elk, pronghorn, and horses are seldom alone. If you see one animal, look for others that may follow.

A 7 day Entrance Pass is good for both Units-$5 per person maximum $10 per vehicle. Annual Pass is $20 and allows entrance into the park for card holder and passengers in a private vehicle.

Camping fees are $10 per site per night for regular sites and $2 per person/minimum fee $20 for group sites.

There are three campgrounds in the park: Cottonwood and Roundup in the South Unit and Juniper in the North Unit. Cottonwood Campground is open year round. It is located in the South Unit of the park, along the Little Missouri River, 5 miles from the park entrance. It accommodates tents, trailers and recreational vehicles. First come, first served (no reservations accepted), with 70 sites. Pull-through sites are available. A group site is available and reservations are accepted beginning March 1 (701) 623-4466. There is no water, sewer or electrical hook-ups and no showers. A picnic table and grill are at each site. Flush toilets and running water are available from May through September. During the remainder of the year, a pit toilet is the only bathroom and one water faucet remains open. The pit toilet is wheel-chair accessible. Each site, except the group site, is limited to a maximum of 6 people. The group site is for 7 to 20 people. Camping limit is 14 days.

The group campsite is located off of the north loop of Cottonwood Campground. The site includes five designated camping pads, cooking grill and picnic tables. Faucet with drinking water plus restrooms with running water and flush toilets are available nearby. Collection of firewood is not permitted – bring your own wood or charcoal.

The Roundup Camp is a group site that can accommodate one group at a time, also located in the South Unit. Horses are permitted at this campground. Maximum group size is 20 people with 20 horses or 30 people without horses. Minimum group size is 6 people. Groups are limited to 5 nights during a calendar year. Reservations are accepted.

Juniper Campground and Juniper Group Site are located in the North Unit. They accommodate tents, trailers and recreational vehicles. No hook-ups are available. Check out time is 12 noon. Camping is limited to 14 consecutive days per year. Campsites are available on a first come, first served basis. It offers the same facilities as Cottonwood. The group site has the same regulations as the Cottonwood site.

Pets must be kept on a leash no longer than 6 feet in length or otherwise physically restrained while in the park. Pets are not permitted on trails or in the backcountry. Dogs and bison don’t mix. Please clean up after your pet.

Open fires are permitted only in the charcoal grates provided at each site. You must extinguish fires before you leave, even if you plan to be gone for only a few minutes. Collection of park vegetation, dead or alive, is prohibited. Fires of all types may be banned during periods of extreme fire danger.

When away from the site, demonstrate your occupancy by displaying your current camping permit or exhibiting other evidence. To avoid resource damage to campsites, occupancy of any one site is limited to one family group or a group not totaling over six (6) individuals. Do not tie ropes or tent lines to trees or structures. All wheeled vehicles, including trailers, bicycles, and motorcycles, must be operated or parked only on paved or gravel-surfaced roadways and pads. Do NOT park or drive on grass or trails. All drains on all vehicles must either be sealed or provided with receptacles, such as buckets, to catch waste discharge. Dumping of any waste on the ground is prohibited. Waste water disposal facilities are located in the side door of each campground comfort station. Commercial sanitary dumping stations are available in Medora. Generator hours are from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. Generators must be equipped with an effective muffler. Skates, roller blades, skateboards and fireworks are prohibited.

Backcountry camping is prohibited without a permit. For the South Unit (and the Elkhorn Ranch), backcountry permits must be obtained at the Medora-Visitor Center. For the North Unit, permits must be obtained at the North Unit Visitor Center. Open fires (wood, charcoal, etc.) are not permitted in the backcountry. Before using the trail contact the US Forest Service and inquire about maps, regulations, trail updates, and possible water sources. Remember, for your protection, exercise caution while using the trail. Prepare yourself for climate extremes, steep and slippery terrain, and unpredictable wildlife. There are no established backcountry campsites at this time. Camping in the backcountry is limited to 14 consecutive days. When you have completed your backcountry camping trip, please stop by the visitor center to advise rangers of your safe return. Overnight parties in the backcountry are limited to a maximum of 10 persons without horses, or 8 persons and 8 horses. Backcountry camping is prohibited within 1/4 mile of roads and trailheads and within 200 feet of any water source. Practice Leave No Trace principles.

Air service is available into the North Dakota towns of Bismarck, Dickinson and Williston.

The South Unit entrance and Visitor Center are located in Medora, just off Interstate 94 (exits 23 & 27) and is 135 miles west of Bismarck, North Dakota. The Painted Canyon Visitor Center is located 7 miles east of Medora just off I-94 at exit 32. The North Unit entrance is located 16 miles south of Watford City along U.S. Highway 85. The distance between Medora at the South Unit and the North Unit is 70 miles via I-94 and U. S. Highway 85.

Bus transportation via Greyhound is available along I-94. The bus stops in Medora, three blocks from the park entrance. Train service via Amtrak is available into Williston, ND.

Both units of the park have scenic drives. The South Unit road makes a 36-mile loop from the entrance. The North Unit road is 28 miles roundtrip.

Approximate Mileage from the following major cities to Theodore Roosevelt National Park:

By Car:

Bismark, ND – 144.15 miles

Dickinson, ND – 47.59 miles

Wissiston, ND – 138.40 miles

Rapid City, SD – 262.29 miles

New Haven, WY – 259.79 miles

Miles, City, MT – 148.57 miles

Theodore Roosevelt National Park , Box 7, Medora, ND 58645-0007

South Unit Information (701) 623-4466

North Unit Information (701) 842-2333

Map

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