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The park is open daily (with overnight camping available by permit only) from sunrise to sunset throughout the year.

Bear Valley Visitor Center is open all year except Christmas. The hours are Monday through Friday 9 a.m. – 5 p.m. and weekends and holidays 8 a.m. – 5 p.m. The Bear Valley Visitor Center is located 0.5 mile (0.8 kilometer) west of Olema, CA along Bear Valley Road. The park’s primary Visitor Center provides an orientation of the park’s roads, trails, and human and natural history. It was designed to blend in with the historically significant ranching culture of this area and is located in the heart of the Olema Valley. The interior exhibit space provides a glimpse of the diverse ecosystems and cultural heritage of the park and includes a seismograph, touch table, auditorium, and book sales area. Audio-visual programs, shown in the auditorium, are available upon request. Natural history books, cards and posters are for sale in the bookstore. Reservations and permits for backcountry camping, as well as beach fire permits, may be obtained here. Allow at least 45 minutes to view exhibits and to watch an audio-visual program. Restrooms are available in the Visitor Center or in the trailhead parking lot 24 hours a day. A picnic area with barbecue grills is located across the driveway. Many trailheads are located near the Bear Valley Visitor Center. It is handicap accessible.

Kenneth C. Patrick Visitor Center is open year round, weekends and holidays, except December 25, from 10:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m. It is closed Monday through Friday. Located at beautiful Drakes Beach off of Sir Frances Drake Blvd, the Visitor Center contains exhibits that focus on 16th century maritime exploration, marine fossils and marine environments. A minke whale skeleton is suspended from the ceiling. Natural history books, cards and posters are for sale in the bookstore. Allow 20-30 minutes to view exhibits. It is handicap accessible. Restrooms and an outdoor shower are available 24 hours a day. A pay phone is available outside the Visitor Center. There are picnic tables and barbecue grills nearby. Drakes Beach Cafe is located next to Visitor Center.

The Lighthouse Visitor Center and the Point Reyes Historic Lighthouse is open year round, Thursday through Monday from 10:00 a.m. – 4:30 p.m. It is closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays and December 25. The stairs to the lighthouse are closed when winds exceed 40 miles per hour (64 km/h). The Lighthouse Visitor Center is located 45 minutes west of Bear Valley on the Point Reyes Headlands, at the end of Sir Francis Drake Blvd. There is a 0.4 mile (650 meter) walk (mostly uphill) from the parking lot to the Lighthouse Visitor Center. Allow at least 2 hours round trip for travel to and from the Lighthouse from the Bear Valley area and another hour to tour the Visitor Center and Lighthouse. The Lighthouse Visitor Center offers exhibits on the historic Point Reyes Lighthouse, as well as on whales, seals and sea lions, wildflowers, birds and maritime history.

The Point Reyes Lighthouse itself is another 0.1 mile (150 meters) beyond the Visitor Center at the base of some 300 steps – the equivalent of 30 stories. The lens room, which houses the original clockworks and first-order Fresnel lens that were manufactured in 1867 and installed in 1870, is open from 2:30 p.m. to 4 p.m. Thursdays through Mondays as staffing and weather conditions permit. The lower chamber of the historic lighthouse has exhibit panels on the history of the light and the keepers. The equipment building next to the lighthouse exhibits the two 1947 super Typhon foghorns, the air compressors, and a backup power generator that were used at Point Reyes. Evening programs illuminating the historic light occur on the first and third Saturday of the month, April through December. There is no fee, but reservations are required. Please call (415) 669-1534 10:00 a.m. – 4:30 p.m. on the day of the program to reserve a spot. Restrooms are available 24 hours a day. A pay phone is available outside the Visitor Center.

Within the lands of Point Reyes are innumerable archaeological sites which contain clues to the prehistory and history of human use of this place. The cultural history of Point Reyes reaches back some 5,000 years. Before the Europeans came to California, the Coast Miwok people were the inhabitants of what we now call Marin and southern Sonoma Counties. Over 120 known village sites exist within the park. They knew and blended with this bountiful land for thousands of years, developing a rich economy based on gathering, fishing and hunting. Village communities of 75 to several hundred people developed in sheltered places near fresh water and plentiful food.

Coast Miwok life was intricately woven into the changing seasons. In the late spring, fresh new greens of Indian lettuce, young nettle leaves and clover were gathered. Fire-hardened digging sticks were used by the women to reach deep-set roots and bulbs. The ocean provided kelp in large amounts, some to be eaten fresh, the rest dried and stored for the winter. Tule was gathered in the fall for skirts and tule baskets. The summer sun ripened grasses and flower seeds, gathered by hitting the ripened seed with a beater basket and letting them fall directly into a collecting basket.

Fall was the season for collecting a variety of nuts: acorns (stored in a granary for year-round consumption), buckeye, hazel and bay. Tule was cut and dried for kotcas (houses), boats and mats. Gray willow for baskets and traps was abundant. Winter and early spring were times of shortage when stored acorns, seeds and kelp became important food sources.

The ocean provided food year-round. Crab, clams, mussels, abalone, limpets and oysters were some of the seafood gathered by the women in the tidal zones. Cleaned of meat, the shells were also fully utilized. Abalone shells were made into beautiful ornaments. The Washington clam was one of the most important shells; these were ground into circular, flat disk beads with a hole drilled in the middle. Strings of these beads were the main trade item (money) and were used extensively through Northern California.

The men adopted many different techniques for fishing. Dip nets (bags of netting attached to wooden frames on a handle) were used to scoop up fish, and woven surf nets were used along the open beaches. Cone-shaped traps of woven gray willow were set up in creeks and mouths of rivers. With hook and bait one could successfully catch halibut and rockfish year-round.

Hunting by use of traps and bow and arrow supplied the Coast Miwok with meat, fur and tools. Traps were used to capture such game as quail, acorn woodpeckers and rabbits, which were highly valued for their fur and meat. Deer were usually hunted with bow and arrow, and provided many necessary items. Antler tips were used for shaping arrowheads, sinew (muscle tendon) was used to fasten points to arrow shafts and leg bones were made into awls (needles used in basket making) and hair pins. In this way, the Coast Miwok wasted little of the animals they hunted.

According to many experts, Sir Francis Drake landed here in 1579, the first European explorer to do so. Sir Francis Drake probably first sighted and mapped the fog-shrouded headlands in 1579, at which time he is thought to have camped along the beach which today bears his name. Drake’s quest for new lands and riches had taken him around South America to the Spanish trade routes of the Pacific Ocean. His ship, the Golden Hinde, was full of gold and luxuries such as porcelain, taken from Spanish galleons traveling from the Philippines to Acapulco.

During the summer of 1579, Drake came ashore somewhere in California to careen his ship to repair the hull. The ship’s chaplain complained in his log of “the stinking fogges”. The nearly omnipresent fog at the Point Reyes headlands throughout the summer, along with the chaplain’s descriptions of the inhabitants, the landscape and the wildlife, indicate that Drake’s Estero may be the location of Drake’s camp. Drake claimed the land for Queen Elizabeth before setting sail southwest to complete his circumnavigation of the globe before returning to England in 1580.

During the late 1500′s, Spanish galleons were making numerous voyages between Mexico and the Philippines. To sail across the north Pacific, ships from Manila would sail north before catching the prevailing easterly winds, arriving along the North American coast north of Point Reyes. It is likely that numerous Spanish crews saw Point Reyes as they sailed south along the California coast toward Acapulco and other Mexican ports where Asian luxury goods such as porcelains and spices were then shipped to Europe. We do know that in 1595, Sebastian Cermeno anchored in the calm waters of what is now called Drakes Bay. As his crew was ashore seeking fresh water, their Manila galleon stuffed with silks and spices, was wrecked in a sudden storm. The crew managed to return home by rowing their long boat to Mexico.

The Spanish had been sending ships along the Pacific Coast and overland explorations throughout North America for many years. In an age of empire building, the Spanish expanded their domain up the California coast from Mexico. Point Reyes officially entered Spanish maps on January 6, 1603 when Sebastian Vizcaino sighted the headlands on the Roman Catholic feast day of the three wise men. Following Spanish tradition, the headlands were named after these religious figures: “la Punta de los Reyes” or the Point of the Kings. Spanish expeditions along the north coast continued. Later, sailors eventually found and entered Tomales Bay, where they would have seen the Miwok village at Segogolue or Toms Point. Amongst the kotças (sleeping shelters), the Spanish traded goods made of metal for finely woven Miwok baskets.

Point Reyes is the windiest place on the Pacific Coast and the second foggiest place on the North American continent. Weeks of fog, especially during the summer months, frequently reduce visibility to hundreds of feet. The Point Reyes Headlands, which jut 10 miles out to sea, pose a threat to each ship entering or leaving San Francisco Bay. In response to the many shipwrecks in the treacherous coastal waters, key lighthouse and lifesaving stations were established by the United States Government in the late 1800s and early 1900s. The historic Point Reyes Lighthouse warned mariners of danger for more than a hundred years.

The Point Reyes Lighthouse was completed in 1870, 16 years after Congress initially appropriated funds for its construction. It still stands in its original location, having weathered over 135 years at what is considered to be the windiest, foggiest location on the US west coast. The Point Reyes Lighthouse lens and mechanism were constructed in France in 1867. The clockwork mechanism, glass prisms and housing for the lighthouse were shipped on a steamer around the tip of South America to San Francisco. The parts from France and the parts for the cast iron tower were transferred to a second ship, which then sailed to a landing on Drakes Bay. The parts were loaded onto ox-drawn carts and hauled three miles over the headlands to near the tip of Point Reyes, 600 feet above sea level.

Meanwhile, 300 feet below the top of the cliff, an area had been blasted with dynamite to clear a level spot for the lighthouse. To be effective, the lighthouse had to be situated below the characteristic high fog. It took six weeks to lower the materials from the top of the cliff to the lighthouse platform and construct the lighthouse. Finally, after many years of tedious political pressure, transport of materials and difficult construction, the Point Reyes Light first shone on December 1, 1870.

Lighthouses provide mariners some safety by warning them of rocky shores and reefs. They also help mariners navigate by indicating their location as ships travel along the coast. Mariners recognize lighthouses by their unique flash pattern. On days when it is too foggy to see the lighthouse, a fog signal is essential. Fog signals sound an identifying pattern to signal the location to the passing ships. Unfortunately, the combination of lighthouses and fog signals does not eliminate the tragedy of shipwrecks.

Because of this ongoing problem, a lifesaving station was established on the Great Beach north of the lighthouse in 1890. Men walked the beaches in four-hour shifts, watching for shipwrecks and the people who would need rescue from frigid waters and powerful currents. A new lifesaving station was opened in 1927 on Drakes Bay near Chimney Rock and was active until 1968. Today, it is a National Historic Landmark and can be viewed from the Chimney Rock Trail.

The lens in the Point Reyes Lighthouse is a “first order” Fresnel (fray-nel) lens, the largest size of Fresnel lens. Augustin Jean Fresnel of France revolutionized optics theories with his new lens design in 1823. Before Fresnel developed this lens, lighthouses used mirrors to reflect light out to sea. The most effective lighthouses could only be seen eight to twelve miles away. After his invention, the brightest lighthouses could be seen all the way to the horizon, about twenty-four miles.

The historic Point Reyes Lighthouse served mariners for 105 years before it was replaced. It endured many hardships, including the April 18, 1906 earthquake, during which the Point Reyes Peninsula and the lighthouse moved north 18 feet in less than one minute! The only damage to the lighthouse was that the lens slipped off its tracks. The lighthouse keepers quickly effected repairs and by the evening of the eighteenth, the lighthouse was once again in working order. The earthquake occurred at 5:12 a.m. and the lighthouse was scheduled to be shut down for regular daytime maintenance at 5:25 a.m. Although the earthquake caused much devastation and disruption elsewhere, the Point Reyes Lighthouse was essentially only off-line for thirteen minutes!

The lighthouse was retired from service in 1975 when the U.S. Coast Guard installed an automated light. They then transferred ownership of the lighthouse to the National Park Service, which has taken on the job of preserving this fine specimen of our heritage. All lighthouses in the United States are now automated because it is cheaper to let electronics do the work. Many decommissioned lighthouses were transformed into restaurants, inns or museums. The lighthouse at Point Reyes National Seashore is now a museum piece, where the era of the lightkeepers’ lives, the craftsmanship and the beauty of the lighthouse are actively preserved.

The National Park Service is now responsible for the maintenance of the lighthouse. Park rangers now clean, polish and grease it, just as lighthouse keepers did in days gone by. With this care, the light can be preserved for future generations – to teach visitors of maritime history and of the people who worked the light, day in and day out, rain or shine, for so many years.

Before the establishment of Life Saving and Lifeboat Stations, the remains of vessels littered the beaches and the rocks along the United States coastline. Horrified spectators witnessed the drowning of passengers and crew, helpless to do anything. In the same waves that smashed hulls and took lives of the unsuspecting, some heard a call to action.

Though lifesaving’s role in maritime history begins in the 1780’s, it was not until 1871 that a coordinated government agency was established to aid distressed mariners. The United States Life-Saving Service (USLSS) provided hope for those whose fate was once sealed by pounding ocean waves and foreboding coastlines of the United States. The USLSS was a model agency and its surfmen would earn a place in the hearts of Americans for their feats of bravery.

In 1890, alone on the long stretch of empty beach, the Point Reyes Life-Saving Station opened with a crew of eight and a seasoned keeper on a lonely stretch of Great Beach known for its notorious pounding surf and bad weather. Their positions were poorly paid, difficult and full of danger. The surfmen patrolled the beaches of Point Reyes with an ever-vigilant eye, looking for shipwrecks and their desperate crews. They walked the beaches day and night, with the fog chilling them to the bone and the wind blasting sand at the unprotected skin of their faces.

When a wreck was found, the surfmen did what they did best, they saved lives. A shipwrecked mariner you could be assured that the surfmen’s presence gave you close to a 99% chance of survival. Equipped with a surf boat and breeches buoys, a keeper would determine the best way to aid those in distress. Using a surfboat with the eight surfmen rowing and the keeper steering, the crew of the lifesaving station would take the imperiled mariners back to shore. But there were times when the boat could not safely reach a wreck. In those instances the breeches buoy and Lyle gun were used. Using a small cannon called a Lyle gun; a line would be shot to the wreck. The breeches buoy which was a life preserver ring with an oversize pair of canvas legs would then be sent to the wreck to remove crew and passengers one at a time.

As the century turned, The United States Lifesaving Service was combined with the US Revenue Cutter Service to form the Coast Guard. This newly formed agency was now charged with aiding those in distress. Very little changed in the first years under Coast Guard management, but, in 1927, operations moved from Great Beach to the protected waters of Chimney Rock. At Chimney Rock, a new station was built as longer, heavier, motorized lifeboats replaced the old, human-powered, surfboats.

The move to Chimney Rock in 1927 relieved many who faced the dangers of the Great Beach surf but lives risked and lost in the pursuit of saving others were not a thing of the past. After only two months at the new site, the men of the station responded to their first rescue saving the crew from a burning vessel. As the years passed and the Coast Guardsmen left their marks in the Station’s logbooks, hints of their bravery can often be found. Life saving crews risked their lives in rough seas, near the rocky headlands and among towering waves saving the lives of many. In the process they lost two of their own. In 1960, on Thanksgiving Eve two Coast Guardsmen were lost in an ordinary call for assistance. After securing a disabled vessel in Bodega Bay, the two-man crew radioed their arrival time to the Life Boat Station. That was the last that was heard from the crew. In the morning, their boat was found grounded on Great Beach with the propellers still turning. What happened to the crew? The answer was lost with them, leaving a mystery in its place.

Whatever the answer, there is no question of the surfman’s bravery. Even with all these tragedies, the lives and vessel saved far outnumbered those lost by the duty bound. In the 80 years of life saving at Point Reyes, countless vessels, their crews and passengers and millions of dollars worth of ships and cargo were saved. Ships continue to wreck on Point Reyes. Even with modern satellite technology, nearly every year some small vessel, a pleasure craft or fishing boat, is lost to these shores.

Eventually modern technologies eclipsed the need for the Lifeboat Station at Point Reyes. The quick response of larger faster coast Guard Cutters and helicopters have meant the need for fewer lifesaving sites and less staff. In 1969 the Point Reyes Lifeboat Station was closed. Much of this history and these lives lived in service to others are now gone. All that remains in its place is a building. Silent and decommissioned, it embodies all the perils endured, and all the lives saved that would have otherwise been lost forever. The Historic Lifeboat Station at Chimney Rock stands as a monument to their stories of service and sacrifice.

The 1849 California Gold Rush brought an influx of capitalists, merchants, professional practitioners, laborers, and agriculturists, amongst others seeking alternative wealth along the shores of San Francisco Bay. Some of those who vainly sought mineral gold in the Sierra Nevada foothills came further west, finding gold of another kind at Point Reyes. With their dairying skills honed in their previous homes, they could envision production of golden wheels of cheese and casks of butter to provision the growing population of nearby San Francisco. The treeless coastal plain beckoned with opportunity.

The early American settlers of the 1850s were impressed with the cool, moist climate of Point Reyes, providing near-ideal conditions for raising dairy cows. Abundant grass and forbs, a long growing season, and sufficient fresh water supplies promised productivity well in excess of domestic need. Unknown to the early ranchers, the expansive coastal prairie was most likely the byproduct of burning, weeding, pruning and harvesting for at least two millennia by Coast Miwok and their antecedents.

The Franciscan missionaries set the stage for the explosion of dairy in west Marin with the introduction of feral cattle in 1817. They established the San Rafael Asistencia, near San Francisco Bay, as an annex to Mission Dolores in San Francisco, serving as a recuperative center for ailing Coast Miwok and Ohlone natives. Secularization of the missions following Mexican independence from Spain led to land grant subdivision and the expansion of cattle ranching on the peninsula.

The advancing front of Americano ranchers brought to light poor record keeping, and the behavior of several Mexicano land grantees coveting and utilizing a neighbor’s adjacent parcel. As land was sold to the new immigrants, the title to the land usually became ensnared in litigation. During a five-year period ending in 1857, the San Francisco law firm of Shafter, Shafter, Park, and Heydenfeldt obtained title to over 50,000 acres on the peninsula, encompassing the coastal plain and most of Inverness Ridge. Unlike the small dairy operations pre-existing on the peninsula, these Vermont-native lawyer / businessmen saw the opportunity to market large quantities of superior quality butter and some cheese under a Point Reyes brand to San Francisco. The remote location of Point Reyes would be overcome with the expeditious delivery of finished products and livestock to the foot of Market Street by way of small schooners, and eventually by rail and ferry.

Initially, the Shafters signed new leases with the existing dairy ranches. The singular exception was the sale of Tomales Point to an old friend from Vermont, Solomon Pierce. The Pierce family built a small town to support their isolated twin dairy ranches with the commanding views of the Pacific and Tomales Bay. In time, the Pierce Point Ranches out-competed the Shafter dairy collective in production and quality of finished product.

Oscar Shafter’s son-in-law C. W. Howard and the Shafter brothers proceeded to divide the remainder of their real estate into a tenant dairy enterprise in 1866. The land was subdivided into 33 ranches. Three years later, the business partners partitioned the dairies into six tracts, leaving each to own and manage a collection of coastal plain and ridgeline ranches. Oscar Shafter and Howard utilized the letters of the alphabet to name their individual ranches. “A” Ranch was located closest to the headlands; “Z” Ranch was located at the summit of Mt. Wittenberg, while several letters were left unneeded. James Shafter bequeathed more poetic names like Drakes Head, Muddy Hollow, Oporto and Sunnyside.

The Shafters and Howard employed family members, local residents, or recruited European dairymen as superintendents to construct new dairies, refurbish existing ranches, recruit immigrant ranch hands, and aid selection of the tenant ranchers. The tenant ranches were rented by Irish, Swedish, Italian-speaking Swiss, and Azore Islands-Portuguese families. Surviving Coast Miwok families displaced by the Spanish missions also found work on the dairies situated above their Tomales Bay homes. The Shafters envisioned creating a more civil society for the nineteenth century Bay Area, refining bachelor ranch hands and educating ranch family children. Chinese, Canadian, Filipino, Mexican and German immigrants all found their chance to get started in America through dairying at Point Reyes.

The ultimate success of the Shafter / Howard dairy enterprise rested on their ability to market and negotiate contracts with high-end hoteliers and fine food purveyors. The Point Reyes brand of butter conveyed a high level of quality, attested in articles in local contemporary newspapers. “The grass growing in the fields on Monday is butter on the city tables the following Sunday,” as the 1880 History of Marin County reported. The brand with letters “PR” inside a star was stamped into cheesecloth-wrapped rolls or casks of butter. This familiar symbol was actually forged by other dairy farmers of the time.

Record yields of butter and cheese came from the dairy farms at Point Reyes throughout the late 19th century. Herds of Devons, Jerseys, Guernseys, and later on Holsteins, numbering from 100 to 250 cows per ranch, catapulted the Point Reyes enterprise as perhaps the largest operation in the early years of the state. In 1867, Marin County produced 932,429 pounds of butter, the largest yield of butter in California. These huge amounts of butter were produced in an era when the finest restaurants served every good steak with a melting slab of butter on top.

The distance to San Francisco and east Marin communities precluded the ability to ship milk for domestic consumption. In the absence of refrigeration, the raw milk was briefly useable by the ranch families and employees. Collected by milkers either outdoors or inside large milking barns, raw milk sat in pans inside dairy houses to allow for cream separation. The surplus skim milk was dumped into a drain leading to an open trench, finding its way to penned, thirsty hogs. It was not unusual to see swine and casks of butter shipped off together on the decks of schooners headed for the city.

The estates of the three Shafter / Howard families declined shortly after the turn of the century. Following the 1906 earthquake, several dairies located on Inverness Ridge shuttered their doors. Although building damage contributed to their demise, these ranches failed due to the absence of Coast Miwok burning and the rapid expansion of native coyotebrush and poison oak thickets, leading to dramatic reductions in grazeable pastures for cows. By 1933, all ridgeline dairies were gone.

The demand for Shafter / Howard ranch produce waned, particularly as transportation throughout the Bay Area improved. Other regional dairies were improving their quality, quantity and distribution of produce, while the cumulative impacts of overgrazing on Point Reyes had caused a significant decline in pasture quality. The accumulation of massive debt, the 1929 stock market crash, and the close of the Depression ultimately brought an end to the three estates, and the “butter rancho”. Land speculators picked up the pieces, and in most instances resold the ranches to the contemporary tenants.

The Shafter / Howard enterprise “corresponded to the feudal system of England”, according to the San Rafael Independent in 1939. The new owners had chafed at the terms of their leases and the increasing inability of their landlords to make capital improvements to their dairy infrastructure. The timing of the demise of the Shafter family estates coincided with Federal and state regulation of milk production for consumer health. Butter production shifted from the individual ranches to cooperative creameries located on “F” Ranch and railroad town of Point Reyes Station. The most important improvements, in the form of more profitable Grade A dairy operations, began to appear in 1935, though most were constructed after the conclusion of World War II. Ranch homes and bunkhouses built in the 1870s were found to be too small and difficult to maintain, and began to be replaced with stucco-covered, single story residences.

During the Depression, ranchers struggled to make ends meet. It was not uncommon for ranchers to augment their incomes with expanded livestock production, such as beef cattle, chickens, and eggs. Several ranches invited Japanese immigrants to raise peas, and Italian immigrants to cultivate artichokes on more remote parcels. These ventures were usually successful. Following the attack on Pearl Harbor in 1941, and the subsequent internment of the Japanese-Americans and relocation of Italian-Americans, the fields went fallow for lack of labor, and mounting soil erosion problems. During Prohibition, whiskey and rum smuggling at Home Ranch on Limantour Estero replaced dairy operations as their sole source of income.

Others changes were coming. The Golden Gate Bridge opened in 1937, expediting movement of produce from the North Bay region into San Francisco. During World War II, the ranches became connected to the regional electric power grid, replacing gas-powered generators to run milking and refrigeration equipment. The cooperative creameries closed, allowing for ranchers to sell raw milk as commodity to regional creameries. After the war, some dairies ceased operation, converting to far less labor-intensive beef cattle operations. Probably most important, fresh war veterans who had transited through San Francisco enroute to the Pacific theatre decided to relocate their families to the Bay Area, swelling the tide of suburbanization into Marin County.

Marin County had embraced a favorable growth plan in the 1950s and 60s to benefit real estate developers and speculators, with assistance from the state department of transportation. With the influx of new residents, many of them affluent, property taxes for the county as a whole dramatically increased. At the same time, dairy operators nationally saw prices for the products drop considerably. Dairies regionally had been closing or consolidating for sometime, but the combination of economics, competition, labor costs, taxes, environmental regulation, and land values accelerated the pace. Point Reyes dairies feared the loss of the quality of life as much as declining profitability. If more dairies closed their doors, the fear rose that the supporting dairy industry infrastructure might collapse. Most important, the ranchers valued the pastoral landscape that their parents and grandparents had set roots in, often back to the nineteenth century.

In order to secure their place at Point Reyes, the dairy and cattle ranchers formed an uneasy alliance with the Sierra Club in hopes of preserving their ranches and west Marin open space. The National Park Service had actively sought to establish a literal beachhead on the California coast, and Point Reyes in particular, as early as 1936. Washington was approached to help solve the pressing needs of many local and national constituencies. The compromise hammered out by Congress and signed by President Kennedy in 1962 explicitly provided for the retention of the ranches in a designated pastoral zone, with ranchers signing 25-30 year reservations of use and occupancy leases, and special use permits for cattle grazing. Over the ensuing ten years, NPS acquired the 17 remaining operating ranches and the property of the abandoned ranches.

In 2002, six historic Shafter / Howard era dairies were operating in the park. An additional nine occupied historic ranches and former ranch sites run beef cattle. The Pierce Point Ranch on Tomales Point ceased operations in 1973. Three years later, Congress authorized creation of the wilderness area incorporating that ranch as habitat for the reintroduction of tule elk. Beginning in 1980, NPS invested in the rehabilitation of the ranch core, citing it as the best example of a nineteenth century west Marin dairy ranch. Pierce Point Ranch was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1985, and was subsequently opened to the public as an interpretive site.

The former “W” or Bear Valley Ranch was early on designated as the new National Seashore’s headquarters. Visitors to the Bear Valley Visitor Center pass through the former ranch core, adaptively reused for park administration and support services. The visitor center itself is a new addition, designed to echo the surrounding agricultural landscape and local history. Plans call for seventeen ranches on Point Reyes to be included on the National Register as a historic landscape district.

Guglielmo Marconi sited and commissioned the building of wireless telegraphy transmitting station in Bolinas and receiving station in Marshall, on Tomales Bay, in 1913-14. They formed the foundation for the most successful and powerful ship to shore and land station, known as “KPH”, on the Pacific Rim. The Marshall station was replaced in 1929 by a new Art Deco-designed facility at Point Reyes Beach on the “G” Ranch. Few of the succeeding generations of antennas, arranged in “farms”, remain at the two sites. However, the radio equipment, some of it dating to the World War II-era, remains intact, functional, and used for ceremonial occasions by former RCA key operators. The Monterey cypress “tree tunnel” at the Point Reyes station is a signature landscape feature that evokes some of the prestige that RCA placed in this profitable, historic operation. Studies are underway to ultimately list both National Seashore sites and the Marshall facility, now a California State Parks conference center, together as a multiple property National Historic Landmark.

In 2000, Park staff and dedicated volunteers worked to preserve the structures, artifacts and records of the historic RCA/Marconi radio facilities, including the Bolinas transmitting station and the Point Reyes receiving station. The facilities date from 1913, the earliest days of wireless communication, and research indicates that together with the Marshall Marconi receiving station, the sites comprise what appear to be the last intact Marconi-era coast station in North America.

Night of Nights is an annual event held on the 12th of July by the MRHS to commemorate the history of maritime radio and the closing of commercial Morse operations in the USA. These on-the-air events are intended to honor the men and women who followed the radiotelegraph trade on ships and at coast stations around the world and made it one of honor and skill.

The scenic Wilkins Ranch, at the head of Bolinas Lagoon, witnessed three waves of mining fever on the upper slopes of Bolinas Ridge. Three copper mining companies organized in 1863, following the clear-cutting of redwoods from the slopes of Olema Valley. Only one, in Union Gulch, produced any substantial ore, but failed due to low copper prices and high transportation costs for smelting. The Chetco Mining Company, more successful than its predecessors, closed its doors in 1918 as the last operation to work the vein. The mine’s adit and shaft, having long since been secured, are accompanied by the mining road, concrete foundations and cabin site, a rusty boiler and cable, and other large debris.

Point Reyes National Seashore encompasses approximately 71,000 acres of grassland, forest, wilderness lakes, dunes, and sandy and rocky beaches and shoreline along the Pacific coast north of San Francisco. The coastal dunes rise above the reach of the highest tides. The north side of Inverness Ridge is covered by granitic soil. The south side of Inverness Ridge has shale and sandstone mix.

Point Reyes National Seashore is blanketed with subtle natural features nestled over a variety of ecosystems. The overriding natural feature is the presence of the eastern San Andreas Fault that bisects the geologic peninsula from the rest of the California mainland. The remaining sides of the peninsula are intermittently edged by beaches, sea cliffs, and intertidal zones cascading into the Pacific Ocean. Encircled by this rich assemblage is a mosaic of ecosystems arranged by factors such as geologic foundation, climate, and exposure. While there are dozens of ways to classify and name the exact type of ecosystem, the broadest and closest category places Point Reyes National Seashore into a Mediterranean Ecosystem.

The Point Reyes Peninsula has long baffled geologists. Why should the rocks of this craggy coast match Tehachapi Mountains rocks more than 310 miles to the south? The answer lies in plate tectonics and the continual motion of the Earth’s crust. Geologically, Point Reyes is a land in motion.

The Peninsula rides high on the eastern edge of the Pacific plate, which creeps northwestward about two inches a year. The slower moving North American plate travels westward. In Olema Valley, near Bear Valley Visitor Center, the North American and Pacific plates grind together along the San Andreas Fault Zone. This fault zone contains many large and small faults running parallel and at odd angles to one another. Because neither plate can move freely, tremendous pressures build up. From time to time this pressure becomes too great, and the surface actually moves. This is what happened in the earthquake of 1906 when the Peninsula leaped 20 feet northwestward. The most accessible location within Point Reyes National Seashore to view the San Andreas Fault Zone is from the Earthquake Trail, located off of the parking lot at the Bear Valley Visitor Center.

The sea is the soul of Point Reyes. The shores of Point Reyes are full of rocky cliffs. Close to the vigorous port of San Francisco, Point Reyes has always been a major feature along the shipping routes. It thrusts ten miles out into the ocean. The Point Reyes peninsula is surrounded on three sides by the Pacific Ocean which dramatically affects the daily and seasonal climates, and numerous resident and migratory marine species. The most significant oceanic impact on the peninsula is the seasonal upwelling phenomena. Upwelling occurs when nutrient-rich colder waters rise from deeper levels to replace the relatively warm surface waters, and as a result creates summer coastal fog. Tormented by chill, coursing currents, the sheer granite cliffs are thrashed by howling winds and concealed by impenetrable fogs – the worst the Pacific has to offer, according to a survey carried out by the United States Lighthouse Service in the 1800s.

The intertidal area is where the land merges under the ocean and the tidal zones begin. This complex marine ecosystem is found along coastlines worldwide with general similarities expressed by local diversity. At Point Reyes National Seashore, the intertidal zone is characterized by four zones delineated mostly by the amounts of moisture, exposure to the sun, water movement, temperature, and salinity.

The different zones of the park provide the opportunity to experience windswept Bishop pines, Douglas firs, estuaries, forests, wetlands, chaparral, and coastal scrub. The pastoral areas have native coastal grasslands. The broad range of plant communities supports over 900 species of vascular plants. This number represents about 15% of the California flora. Sixty-one species found in Marin County are known only from Point Reyes.

Bishop pine forests are unique to granitic quartz-diorite soils. Fragments of bishop pine forests exist along the coast of California where the climate, soil and fire regime are just right for their growth. Here at Point Reyes, these forests are not hard to find. They grow primarily all along the northern end of Inverness Ridge. Post-fire, you can find young pines of the same age crowded together such as along the Drakes View Trail. Dense pine patches alternate with dense stands of blue blossom and the very rare Marin manzanita. Over time, young forests self-thin, giving way to mature forests mixed with bay laurel, madrone, coast live oak, tanoak, huckleberry, salal and swordfern. The bishop pine forest bounces back quickly from a fire. Over one third of the pine forest you see today was ash in 1995 after a fire raged through the Mt. Vision area.

A piece of the Pacific Northwest grows on the east side of Inverness Ridge. Here enough rain falls in the winter to quench the thirst of this fast-growing tree and the trees, shrubs and herbs that sprout underneath. They are buoyed in the summer by fog moisture. The plants thrive in soil derived from marine sediments. They are a diverse mix. Looking up you see the Douglas-fir trees soaring straight up to form a canopy, then you’ll see California bays, tanoaks, and coast live oaks bending upwards, and right at your eye level you can see coffeeberry, huckleberry, poison oak, hazelnuts, elderberries, honeysuckles, bouquets of ferns and small woodland herbs. This vegetation type describes over 30,000 acres of the Seashore. Sudden Oak Death is a recent phenomenon to this community; expect to see dead and dying tanoaks and true oaks in the forest canopy as Sudden Oak Death continues to spread throughout this community.

One of the most common plant communities at the Seashore, coastal scrub stretches over much of the gentle hills above the ocean. These plants tolerate abrasive conditions – high winds, little rain, blowing salt spray and poor soils – but still they persist. They make do with the resources they have, keeping short and shrubby, putting extra support into stiff leaves, and growing a long taproot for stability and to reach deep water. Vast tracts of coyote bush indicate that you are in the coastal scrub. The scrub is made up of other shrubs like yellow bush lupine, poison oak, and blackberry and lone stunted conifers. In the southern parts of the park, California sagebrush and California buckwheat replace coyote bush. Springtime finds this community alive with color. A common flower is the sticky monkey-flower, whose flower is orange and resembles a monkey’s face. Bright red Indian paintbrush steals nutrients and water from other plants’ roots. California poppies and Douglas irises also grow in the coastal scrub.

Point Reyes is host to 13 species of ferns from six different fern families. Ferns are by far the largest group of living seedless vascular plants. Vascular plants have stems, roots, leaves, and vascular systems that transport water, minerals, and food. Other seedless vascular plants include horsetails and club mosses. Keep your eye out for ferns along creek banks and in moist places; you’ll be rewarded with views of the delicate five-finger fern, California maiden-hair, wood fern, Leathery Grapefern, bracken, and more.

For wildflower enthusiasts, a trip to Point Reyes in the spring and summer is a must. Wildflowers bloom at the Seashore February through August, depending on many factors including the amount and frequency of rains. Peak flower blooms occur April-May. Colors range throughout the spectrum and across many sizes. They can be viewed in many habitats including woodlands, scrublands, grasslands, coastal bluffs, beach, dunes, disturbed areas, salt marsh edges. Abbotts Lagoon, Chimney Rock and Tomales Point are just a few of the locations where the flowers bloom early in the season. In late winter and early spring, the Seashore offers ranger-led Wildflower Walks.

A wide variety of other plants can be seen at the park. Small-leaved Iceplant, Hottentot Fig, New Zealand Spinach, Coastal Angelica, Poison Hemlock, Rattlesnake Weed, Coyote Thistle, Lovage, Hairy-petal Hog Fennel, Gairdner’s Yampah, Kellogg’s Yampah, Footsteps-of-Spring, Common Calla, Yarrow, Seaside Dandelion, Pearly Everlasting, Beach Sagebrush, Common Aster, Pineapple Weed, Green Buttons, Cape-ivy, Lobed-leaf Australian Fireweed, Seaside Daisy, Woolly Sunflower, Weedy Cudweed, Cotton-batting Plant, Coastal Western Evax, Hairy Cat’s-ear, Giant Goldfields, Tidy-tips, Bristly Ox-tongue, Milk Thistle, Soliva, Narrow-leaf Mule-ears, Common Fiddleneck, Seaside Fiddleneck, Grassland Popcorn Flower, Field Mustard, Sea Rocket, Meadow Milkmaids, Wart-cress, Coastal Wallflower, Shining Peppergrass, Snowberry, Annual Mouse-ear Chickweed, Coastal Catchfly, Chickweed, Coastal Goosefoot, Coastal Morning-glory, Pigmy-weed, Sea Lettuce, Manroot, Tall Basket-Sedge, Western Brackenfern, Common Swordfern, Narrow-leaf Bird’sfoot Trefoil, Yellow Bush Lupine, Coastal-Prairie Lupine, Bearded Clover, Twin-head Clover, American Vetch, Giant Coastal Vetch, Blue Gentian, Red-stem Filaree, California Perennial Phacelia, Douglas Iris, Salt-sand Rush, Hairy Coyote Mint, Pussy-ears Star Tulip, Australian Tea-tree and Coast Godetia are just a few.

Grasses and short plants grow in the salt marsh. They tend to have stout stems, small leaves and the ability to rid their tissues of excess salt. Most of the plants you see are saltgrass, cordgrass and pickleweed. Saltgrass has special pores on its leaves where salt crystals can push out. Pickleweed also concentrates salt in its leaves. The leaves turn red as the salt concentration gets higher and eventually the plant simply drops its leaves.

Less than one percent of California’s native grassland is still intact today. The northern coastal prairie, which extends into Oregon, is the most diverse type of grassland in North America. Pristine patches of this vegetation still grow at Point Reyes on either side of the San Andreas Fault. Deschampsia coastal prairie is found on the Point Reyes peninsula and Danthonia coastal prairie is found on Bolinas Ridge. Coastal prairie is dominated by long lived perennial bunchgrasses, such as Purple needle grass, California fescue and California oatgrass, all of which can stay green year round with the moisture provided in the fog belt.

Purple needle grass (Nasella pulchra) is the most widespread native perennial bunchgrass found in California. It was an important food source to Native Americans, and is valuable to wildlife and livestock. Purple needle grass is used in many restoration projects at Point Reyes. Its life span can last for hundreds of years; and its deep root systems can support the survival of young oak trees through root fungal associations.

California fescue (Festuca californica) is a native perennial bunchgrass that lives in both shaded and open areas. It is found in coastal forests, chaparral and grasslands. At Point Reyes, it is found at the D-ranch, as well as in the wilderness, growing on west to southwest facing slopes.

California oatgrass (Danthonia californica) is a densely tufted perennial grass. It is found in moist soils, and is moderately drought-tolerant. It is dominant in the coastal prairie along Bolinas ridge where it grows with purple needle grass. Danthonia has adapted to grazing pressure by producing fertile seed enclosed within the stem.

Grass-like sedges and rushes may also be found at Point Reyes. “Sedges have edges and rushes are round,” is an often used phrase to help people know what they are looking at. Like grasses, sedges and rushes have linear plant forms, and inconspicuous flowers which lack color. However, these are three distinct plant families. Sedges and rushes are wetland plants with fewer species than the highly diverse grass family.

There are many activities in which visitors may participate during their trip to Point Reyes. Visitors interested in learning more about the human and natural history of the Point Reyes area can participate in free ranger-led programs. Leisurely drives wind their way over Inverness Ridge and through the pastoral lands to beaches, to the historic lighthouse, and to wildlife viewing areas, such as the tule elk range on Tomales Point or the Elephant Seal Overlook near Chimney Rock. Birdwatching is exceptional throughout the seashore, especially during fall and spring migrations. The Point Reyes headlands and park beaches are excellent places to view the annual gray whale migration, which is best from January through April. Many visitors enjoy picnicking at beaches or at some beautiful vista along the park’s trails. About 150 miles (240 kilometers) of trails beckon hikers, mountain bikers, and horse riders to explore the backcountry. Recreational use of Tomales Bay has grown in recent years especially for camping, boating, and wildlife watching.

The National Seashore has great hiking trails to explore. Trail maps for the north district trails and south district trails are available at the Bear Valley Visitor Center. There are many ways to customize your hike to accommodate your physical and time limitations. Stop by the Bear Valley Visitor Center for current trail information and suggested hikes.

The Earthquake Trail is a short (0.6 mi. /1 km) paved loop that explores the San Andreas Fault Zone. Interpretive signs describe the geology of the area. This trail begins at the southeast corner of the Bear Valley Picnic Area, just across the street from the Bear Valley Visitor Center. The Kule Loklo Trail is a short path that leads up to a replica of a Coast Miwok Indian village. Interpretive signs briefly describe Coast Miwok culture and history and the structures in the village. From Kule Loklo, return on the same trail, or continue around the horse pasture to return via the Morgan Horse Ranch. This trail begins at the north end of the Bear Valley Parking Lot, about 100 yards (100 meters) from the Bear Valley Visitor Center.

The Chimmney Rock Trail is a spectacular hike (1.6 mi. /2.5 km) with views of Drakes Bay and the Pacific Ocean and renowned for great spring wildflowers. Rocky cliffs drop off steeply to the water, so there is no beach access. From January through May, look for migrating whales from the point. Fog and wind can make this hike challenging. Start this hike at the Chimney Rock Trailhead, near the Lighthouse, a 45-minute drive from the Bear Valley Visitor Center.

Mt. Wittenberg Loop is approximately 5 mi / 8 km long and is a steep 1300 feet (400 meter) climb to the highest point in the park (426 m / 1407 ft), with views of the Seashore and Olema Valley. The loop passes through a mixed Douglas fir and oak forest and several open meadows. Start at the Bear Valley Trailhead and follow the Bear Valley Trail south for 0.2 mi. (0.3 km). Turn right on to the Mt. Wittenberg Trail and climb all the way to the top. Continue to the junction with the Meadow and Sky trails, and then return to Bear Valley Trail via Meadow Trail.

The Bolinas Ridge Trail is 2 to 22 mi. / 3 to 35 km long. It is the best trail in the area for walking a dog, with views of Olema Valley. On a sunny day or a moonlit night, enjoy the expansive feeling of this open space. If you choose to continue beyond the first few miles, you will enter the redwood forest and eventually the chaparral. Turn around and retrace your steps whenever you are ready. You may hike with your dog on this trail. Dogs must be leashed at all times. The Bolinas Ridge Trailhead is east of Olema on Sir Francis Drake Boulevard, about 5 minutes driving time from the Bear Valley Visitor Center. There are many other trails both long and short to choose from.

Several hikes along the beaches are great activities. A 1.5-mile (2.5-kilometer) walk through coastal scrub, across a bridge over a stream between two lagoons, and over sand dunes brings you to Abbotts Lagoon Beach. The lagoons attract large numbers of migrating shorebirds in the fall, followed by the wintering ducks. Occasionally peregrine falcons are seen selecting their meals amongst these tasty morsels. The sand dunes backing the beach are home to the endangered snowy plover. The eggs and young of this ground-nesting bird are easily destroyed. Be especially careful in this area during their nesting season, June 1 – September 15.

A wide stretch of beach backed by dramatic white sandstone cliffs makes Drakes Beach a very popular place. Drive-up access, a small café and a visitor center add to its appeal. The sands of the Drakes Bay cliffs were deposited in a shallow sea many years ago, compacted, then uplifted. Erosion has revealed the striations of this story in the cliff faces.

Heart’s Desire Beach is part of Tomales Bay State Park. It is a nice sheltered cove on Tomales Bay that is excellent for families with small children. The ocean water tends to be a little warmer at this beach.

A half-mile walk alongside a marsh and over a sand dune takes you to the northern end of the Great Beach, called Kehoe Beach. Once at the beach, turn left to explore a stream meandering its way into the Pacific Ocean. To the right, giant dunes make explorations fun. Follow the beach further north to see the dramatic juxtaposition of rocks. The first cliffs you see are the smooth Laird sandstone, which change abruptly to granite. A reverse fault displaced the sandstone against the granite upon which it was deposited, creating a continuous cliff made of very different rock types. Dogs are allowed on a 6-foot (1.8-meter) leash on this beach to the north of the trail. Dogs are not permitted south of the trailhead as this area is protected habitat for the endangered snow plover.

A 4.8-mile (7.7-kilometer) trek from the Bear Valley trailhead brings hikers to an overlook above this quiet, secluded beach called Kelham Beach north of Arch Rock. The trail from Coast Trail to Kelham Beach is currently closed due to erosion of the cliff. The cliff is unstable and it is advised that visitors not hike down to the beach from this point.

A long, narrow spit of sand, bound between Drakes Bay and an estuary, is a bountiful wildlife area called Limantour Beach. Scores of shorebirds feed in the wetlands and along the beaches during the fall. Ducks abound in winter at old, freshwater stock ponds created during the peninsula’s ranching era. Harbor seals are often seen bobbing offshore in the gentle waves or basking in the sun’s warmth. Mother gray whales guide their calves along the shoreline during the spring. Dogs are allowed on a 6-foot (1.8-meter) leash on the southeast end of this beach. Dogs are not permitted to the northwest as this area is protected habitat for harbor seals and the endangered snowy plover.

Marshall Beach is on the Tomales Bay side of Point Reyes National Seashore, south of Tomales Point. The parking area is a 2-mile (3-kilometer) drive on a dirt road. It is then a 1.2-mile (1.9-kilometer) hike from the parking area to the beach.

A short, steep, downhill hike leads visitors to McClures Beach, a small but exciting cove with intense surf. The rocks at either end of the beach add to the drama and danger. It is tempting to venture around the southern corner to explore the adjacent beach, but use caution! This area can only be safely accessed during the outgoing low tide.

Palomarin Beach is at the south end of Point Reyes, between Bolinas Point and Wildcat Beach. This trail is a strenuous walk down the cliff. The beach is good for tidepooling at minus tides.

Sculptured Beach is located two miles south of Limantour Beach. Winter rains feed two creeks which stream across the sand into the ocean creating a wet barrier for beach walkers wishing to keep their feet dry. Once at Sculptured Beach, look for its namesake rocks lying on the shoreline. The sculptured rocks are exposed at low tide, along with the organisms that cling to them, creating an exciting area to go tidepooling.

The Great Beach – also known as Point Reyes Beach – is an incredible expanse of over 10 miles (15 kilometers) of undeveloped ocean beach visitors are welcome to explore. If you are looking for the drama of heavy surf this is the place to be. Drive-up access is located at the North Beach or South Beach parking lots. Dogs are allowed on a 6-foot (1.8-meter) leash on this beach. Dogs are not permitted north of the North Beach entrance as this area is protected habitat for the endangered snowy plover. And during the winter when elephant seals are present, dogs are not permitted south of the South Beach access. Please be very cautious near the water as “sneaker waves” have been known to drag unwitting victims out to sea.

Wildcat Beach is a 2.5-mile (4-kilometer) long beach in the southern end of the National Seashore. To access Wildcat Beach at Wildcat Campground, visitors will need to hike at least 5.5 miles (8.8 kilometers). The shortest route to Wildcat Campground is along the Coast Trail from the Palomarin trailhead in the southern part of Point Reyes. Visitors may also ride their bicycles 6.7 miles (10.7 kilometers) from Five Brooks along the Stewart Trail to get to Wildcat Campground. A mile south of Wildcat Campground is Alamere Falls.

For those who enjoy wildlife viewing there is plenty of marine life to see in the different seasons. The Gray Whale migration is January – April. Elephant Seal breeding occurs December-March. The bird migration happens March-May and August-December. You will be able to see a varied amount of bird life. Harbor Seal pupping occurs in March-June, although they are present year round. Every spring, approximately 7,000 harbor seals, or 20% of the mainland California breeding population, haul out on the beaches of Point Reyes. Look for them in the esteros and in Tomales Bay and Bolinas Lagoon. The Tule Elk rut happens in July-October. Look for wildlife at Abbotts Lagoon, Drakes Estero, Elephant Seal Overlook, Five Brooks Pond, Lighthouse, Olema Marsh, Sea Lion Overlook and Tule Elk Preserve.

The key to experiencing the wildlife and the wilderness at Point Reyes is to take your time and to find a quiet space to do it. And above all, be aware of your surroundings. But finding wildlife isn’t very difficult, if you aren’t too particular. Just by stepping out the door of the Bear Valley Visitor Center you are likely to see gophers or gopher snakes, turkey vultures or great blue herons. You might notice black-tailed deer, jackrabbits, or even a coyote or bobcat. However, the best wildlife watching requires patience and the willingness to venture out on the trails, just to enjoy the surroundings. It also requires a sense of ethics. Everything we do may affect wildlife and wild lands.

Jutting 10 miles (16 kilometers) into the Pacific Ocean, the headlands of the Point Reyes Peninsula offer one of the finest spots to view the gray whale. The Gulf of the Farallones National Marine Sanctuary provides a 20-mile (32-kilometer) wide “highway” along which the whales cruise; sometimes they travel in the close lane (nearer to shore), and sometimes they travel in the far lane (farther out to sea). The areas around Chimney Rock and the Lighthouse offer some of the best whale watching spots in the park. Late April and early May afford the opportunity to see mothers and calves close to shore.

The most popular area for kayaking at Point Reyes National Seashore is on Tomales Bay. Tomales Bay is a 15-mile (24-kilometer) long, 6,780-acre (2,645-hectare) tidal water body located in rural west Marin County, California. It is the largest unspoiled coastal embayment on the coast of California. The bay is bounded largely on the west by the Point Reyes National Seashore. Adjacent communities include Pt. Reyes Station, Inverness, Tomales, Marshall, and Dillon Beach in the north where Tomales Bay meets Bodega Bay. Kayaking is also permitted on Drakes Estero and Limantour Estero from July 1 through February 28.

There are four areas for launching on Tomales Bay. Miller County Park (415) 499-6387, also known as Nick’s Cove, is located on the east side of Tomales Bay off Highway 1, north of the town of Marshall. Tomales Bay State Park (415) 669-1140, provides two access areas to Tomales Bay, Millerton Point and Hearts Desire Beach. Millerton Point is on the east side of Tomales Bay, 3 miles (five kilometers) north of Point Reyes Station. Hearts Desire Beach is on the west side of Tomales Bay off Pierce Point Road. Golden Hinde Inn and Marina are located on the west side of the bay. It is off Sir Francis Drake Boulevard 3 miles (five kilometers) north of Inverness. Lawson’s Landing is a campground and boat launch located in Dillon Beach with direct access to Tomales Bay.

Point Reyes provides a variety of off-road biking opportunities traversing diverse habitats and terrains. You can explore trails through evergreen forests, coastal scrub, or along estuaries and beach bluffs. Visitor Centers offer a free map of the park’s trails, indicating which trails are designated for bike travel. Point Reyes permits biking only outside of wilderness areas along emergency access/dirt fire roads, paved roads and a few single-track trails. Bicycles may be rented in Point Reyes Station.

Horses and other pack animals are permitted on most established trails and beaches at the Seashore. They may not travel off trail because conditions are not maintained for their safety, and their presence can negatively impact the environment. Stop by one of the park’s Visitor Centers to pick up a trail map and obtain more information to find out which trails are designated for horse travel. There is a park concessionaire that runs a full service horse stable and offers guided trail rides.

Some popular horse trails in the park are Arch Rock which is the most direct and level route to the ocean, Mt. Wittenberg, Inverness Ridge, Coastal Ride, San Andreas Fault, Wildcat Beach and the Lakes Tour. Check with the Visitor Centers for more information about these trails.

Visit the historic, 135 year-old Point Reyes Lighthouse. Travel time to the Lighthouse parking lot from the Bear Valley Visitor Center is approximately 45 minutes. From the parking lot there is a 10-15 minute walk to the Lighthouse Visitor Center. The Lighthouse itself can be seen from the observation deck located near the Lighthouse Visitor Center. To reach the Lighthouse you must descend 308 stairs from the observation deck to the facility. Note: The Lighthouse Visitor Center and the steps leading down to the Lighthouse are only open Thursdays through Mondays, 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays. Here, you can see historic photographs of shipwrecks and lighthouse-keepers, and handle items on the touch table, including whale baleen. A display of local birds will introduce you to the birds you might see just off the cliffs. A small bookstore offers books, maps and other educational products. There are two Ranger guided programs to learn more about the lighthouse.

A 35-40 minute drive from the Bear Valley Visitor Center can get you to the Pierce Point Ranch and Tule Elk Reserve. Here you can learn about the history of dairy ranching in the park though interpretive signs and historical structures. A short hike from the Pierce Point Ranch will take you into the 2,600 acre (1,050 hectare) preserve where nearly 400 tule elk roam free. They can be seen any time of the year – and often can be seen from the ranch parking lot. The most exciting time to see the tule elk is during the fall rut, late July through November.

The Seashore also offers many ways for visitors to learn more about the park. Ranger-guided programs give visitors the opportunity to explore the wonders of Point Reyes with a Park Ranger. Programs are offered each weekend on both Saturdays and Sundays. On Shaky Ground is at 2 PM on Saturdays where you can dare to tread the San Andreas Fault where the earth’s crust shifted and moved 16 feet (5 meters) in 1906! The Kule Loklo Walk is every Sunday at 2 PM where this leisurely 0.8 mile (1.3 kilometer) tour introduces visitors to the Coast Miwok and their history and culture. Weekdays Memorial Day through Labor Day come and join a Park Ranger to learn more about Point Reyes’ natural and cultural history. Topics may cover earthquakes and plate tectonics, the Coast Miwok, the U.S. Lifesaving Service, or area flora and fauna.

Point Reyes offers lots of fun opportunities for kids. While at Point Reyes, children can discover the wonders of wildlife-watching, hike along a variety of trails, build sand castles, watch for whales, seals and sea lions, discover the lighthouse, check out the visitor centers with interactive displays, or become a Junior Ranger! The park has two self-guided Junior Ranger programs. One explores the history of the Coast Miwok people, while the other is a study at the lighthouse. Stop at the Bear Valley Visitor Center or the Lighthouse Visitor Center, respectively, for more information on becoming a Junior Ranger. There is even a summer camp run by the Point Reyes National Seashore Association.

Sensitive resources such as birds and plants are affected by elephant seals. The western snowy plover, a federally threatened species under the Endangered Species Act, breeds on few California beaches. Loss of habitat to beachfront development and human recreation has forced elephant seals and plovers to compete for limited protected space. Also, rare plants native to coastal dunes are potentially at risk. Elephant seals and their curious human visitors may physically crush plants that are struggling to remain alive.

The park’s task is to balance the expansion of the elephant seal colony while providing for the health of other species. To manage this balance, the park will continue its docent program, which provides visitors with on-site information and safety messages at the overlooks. To anticipate where the elephant seals might expand to next, researchers will attempt to discover why seals prefer to breed on some beaches and not others. This information will allow the park to make responsible choices about appropriate beach use by people, pets, and wildlife.

Since 1995, Point Reyes National Seashore (PRNS) and Point Reyes Bird Observatory Conservation Science (PRBO) have been implementing a recovery project for the breeding western snowy plover (Charadrius alexandrinus nivosus) population within the Seashore. The snowy plover is a small shorebird that was listed as a federally threatened species in 1993. Current estimates project that there are roughly 1,800 western snowy plovers along the Pacific Coast from Washington to Baja (USFWS unpublished data). Their diminishing numbers are largely due to habitat loss and degradation from the introduction of nonnative plants.

While habitat loss and degradation are the biggest factor contributing to plover declines, our seemingly benign beach activities can also pose significant threats to plovers here at Point Reyes. Beaches provide open spaces for us to relax and play but some things we love to do at the beach spell disaster for the snowy plover. The peak of human activities on Point Reyes beaches usually coincides with the ‘snowies’ breeding season March through September. Walking dogs or riding horses near nests flushes protective parents, leaving eggs and chicks exposed to wind, sand, cold, and predators. Food scraps left on beaches attract predators that would not have otherwise found the odorless, camouflaged plover eggs.

Gulls, ravens, foxes, coyotes, dogs, feral cats, skunks, and raccoons are famous for developing feeding habits based on reckless human disturbance and often congregate where people recreate. Even simply standing a stick in the sand as a flagpole can draw predators: the stick provides a perch for raptors that otherwise have no vantage points on barren beaches.

PRBO in collaboration with PRNS have been monitoring snowy plovers at Point Reyes intensively for 16 years including 1977, 1986 to 1989, and 1995 to the present. Over the years, PRBO and PRNS have experimented with a variety of management measures that would help the plovers reproduce successfully, including erecting enclosures around nests, creating seasonal closures around nesting habitat and removing invasive plants. The enclosures, similar to those used for the piping plover on the east coast, were made of 10-foot by 10-foot square, 4-5 foot tall fencing that allows entrance and departure of plovers while keeping out predators.

To reduce human disturbance of plovers, the park used educational signs and brochures to teach the public about the vulnerability of nesting snowy plovers and to alert visitors to seasonal closures and pet restrictions in plover habitat. On weekends, when recreation was most intense, park employees and several volunteer docents were present on beaches and at trail heads to educate visitors.

In conjunction with this recovery program, coastal dune restoration efforts at Abbotts Lagoon were initiated to expand the range of endangered plants and increase nesting habitat for snowy plovers. From 2001 to 2005, 50 acres of non-native European beachgrass (Ammophila arenaria) and iceplant (Carpobrotus edulis) have been removed from critical dune habitat.

Since March 2004, plovers have begun to nest in the dune area restored with heavy equipment. This is the first time plovers have used these back dunes since research began in 1972. Normally, plover nesting activity has been restricted to a narrow strip of sand between the beachgrass formed sea wall and the high tide line. Plovers are using the area for chick rearing as well. Male plovers have been seen moving chicks to this area from as far as a mile and a half away. The restored area is open enough for plovers to see approaching predators and provides areas of protection (chicks are much harder to find in open sand fields) and native food sources.

Point Reyes National Seashore protects a portion of the watershed necessary to ensure the safe migration and spawning of Coho salmon and steelhead trout. This protection is necessary as both species have been directly impacted by human activities and development. Healthy creeks are one step toward maintaining and hopefully increasing their populations. Their true hope for survival lies in changing human attitudes, behaviors, and priorities.

Armed with chest waders and measuring sticks, National Park Service staff and volunteers brave streams swollen from the winter rains to survey for spawning Coho and steelhead. They track spawners, carefully count carcasses, and take tissue samples for DNA analysis, providing valuable information to study the abundance and distribution of these fish. This is part of the work of the Coho and Steelhead Restoration Project.

When Coho salmon and steelhead trout were placed on the threatened species list, the National Park Service initiated a five-year project to identify, evaluate, restore, and enhance Coho and steelhead populations and their habitat within three West Marin parks, Point Reyes National Seashore, Golden Gate National Recreation Area, and Muir Woods National Monument. The Coho and Steelhead Restoration Project is focusing on Pine Gulch, Redwood, Olema, and Lagunitas creeks and their watersheds.

The success of this ambitious program depends on the active participation of the public, local community conservation organizations, adjacent landowners, and public agencies. By working together, they will lay the groundwork for sustainable and healthy streams, riparian zones, and watersheds.

As native systems have been altered in other areas of California, many native plants have been pushed to the brink of extinction. Point Reyes National Seashore serves as a refuge for an astonishing number of these rare plants. Over 50 plants at Point Reyes are currently listed by the Federal government, State government, or the California Native Plant Society as being rare, threatened, or endangered. These threatened, rare, and endangered plants are actively monitored and managed by park scientists.

Unfortunately, 292 of the plants within the park are not native. These include a wide variety of grasses in the pastoral zone, South African capeweed, scotch broom, pampas grass, and trees such as eucalyptus, cypress, and Monterey Pine. Invasive non-native species tend to spread very rapidly and out-compete native plants for scarce space and resources. To curb the tide of many of the Seashore’s non-native invasive plants, volunteers are recruited to remove the most threatening species.

Point Reyes National Seashore is a Class I park and air quality is generally good due to the prevailing westerly marine flows. However, during periods when atmospheric conditions displace the east Pacific high pressure system, air flows from the San Francisco Bay area can degrade the air quality of the seashore. This mainly occurs during the late summer and early fall, when the major atmospheric systems undergo a seasonal change. During this time, the seashore is often impacted by a general haze, which significantly impairs visibility.

Because ambient ozone levels at Point Reyes are currently quite low, oxidant injury in vegetation is unlikely at the present time. If there were to be changes in the atmospheric patterns at the Seashore, there are approximately 37 plant and lichen species with known sensitivities to sulfur dioxide, ozone, and nitrogen oxides.

As you hike and drive around forested areas of Point Reyes, you may look out upon the landscape and notice a large number of dying trees. When first observed in the 1990’s, the disease affecting these trees was named “Sudden Oak Death” (SOD), and researchers attempted to ascertain it’s cause and what might be done to reverse or stop its spread. Research has revealed the answers to some of the questions, but not all.

Sudden Oak Death is caused by the fungus Phytophthora ramorum. It is a water mold which prolifically produces spores in humid and moist environments. This makes California’s damp riparian corridors superb highways for the pathogen to spread. As a result many of the native species in this “perfect environment” have become vectors for Phytophthora ramorum and infect other species, which then may die due to the fungus. Phytophthora ramorum was initially identified in 1993 in Germany and the Netherlands. There, the fungus began attacking ornamental rhododendrons. The pathogen made its first appearance in the United States in 1995 in Marin County’s Mill Valley, where it infected and killed a Tan Oak.

Tan Oaks (Lithocarpus densiflorus) are a common species in many types of forests. It has been a historically significant species since before the United States became a country. The Tan Oak has been, and continues to be, a food source for many Native American peoples. Tannins in the acorns increase storage time due to their resistance to mold. In addition to storage time the sheer volume of acorns produced made the Tan Oak an important food source. Soup, bread, and mush were all made from the acorn. The tree’s uses evolved as settlers moved west and played an important role in the tanning industry. Acids leached from the bark of the tree were used to tan leather.

In addition to human cultural uses the Tan Oak is an important wildlife species. It is associated with both conifer forests and mixed evergreen forests. Its acorns provide a plentiful food source for many wildlife species such as squirrels. They also provide homes for insect larvae. The elimination of this species from our landscape would create a cultural and ecological hole in our environment.

The Tan Oak is but one species affected by Sudden Oak Death. There are two ways a plant can play host to the pathogen: foliar host — which are not usually killed by SOD — and bark canker host. Foliar hosts are not usually killed by SOD, whereas bark canker hosts are. These include members from the Quercus (oak) family and Lithocarpus densiflorus (Tan Oak.) Red Oaks such as Coast Live Oak (Quercus agrifolia) and Black Oak (Quercus kellogii) are species suffering mortality from the pathogen. Bark cankers form on infected trees and appear as open oozing wounds. Upon inspection the cankers excrete a dark brown, reddish thick liquid from the wound. These cankers are evidence of Phytophthora ramorum’s presence. Cankers girdle the cambium of the main stem eventually killing the tree. Sudden Oak Death may take up to two years to kill its host. However, cankers are extremely attractive to invading pests and these pests will often hasten the demise of the tree. The ambrosia beetle, Monorthrum scantellare, M. deatiger, bark beetle Psudopityophythorus pubipennis, and sapwood decay fungus Hypoxylon thouarsianum all pose a threat to infected trees. Sapwood decay fungus is especially compromising to the structure of the tree. As the tree ages, heartwood tissue naturally decays. Sapwood decay fungus weakens sapwood portions of the tree compromising the entire tree.

Currently there is no cure for Sudden Oak Death, although the research continues. One fungicide is approved both as a preventative measure and to slow onset of the disease of recently affected organisms (trees). Another preventative measure involves spraying a specific chemical on oak trunks and lower limbs. The hope is the substance will prevent the pathogen from entering treated trees. Another method of control is injecting a particular chemical into the base of oak trunks. It is hoped this method will prolong lifespans of treated trees. However, many of these treatments can have adverse impacts on the person applying it, or on pets, birds, insects, and other animals, if not applied carefully. These products need to be applied properly to prevent impacts, and should only be applied by a qualified professional.

Other ongoing research includes studies centering on California’s fire regime and whether recent changes in fire frequency has aided Phytophthora ramorum’s success. Initial studies found infested areas occur in locations where fire has been absent for an extended period of time. The pathogen is most common and abundant in urban areas correlating with an infrequent fire regime. But additional research on historic fire regimes and ground truthing is needed to obtain a more accurate picture and reliable conclusions on this matter.

The Marin County Fire Department has also investigated the fire regime issue. The department has found infested areas with Phytophthora ramorum where prescribed burns have occurred. This disproves the theory that fire itself could be the key to stopping the spread of Phytophthora ramorum.

Besides losing a piece of our cultural heritage and an important food source for wildlife, the die off of numerous trees raises other concerns. Increased tree mortality could increase fire risks to communities. Dead and down trees suffering from Phytophthora ramorum add significant amounts to fuel loads which previously did not exist. Just as fire suppression has played a part in altering our fire regime, so too could this newly increasing fuel load. However, instead of the decrease we see as a result of fire suppression, an increasing fuel load could increase fires.

As a visitor to places with Sudden Oak Death be aware of your surroundings and what you can do to stop its spread. Now that you know the signs of SOD, be aware of the vegetation around you. When you notice signs that may be SOD take precautions such as washing and disinfecting your shoes, tires, and anything that can transport vegetative particles and dirt. Disinfection can be accomplished with a diluted bleach solution. Phytophthora ramorum reproduces through spores and wet winters encourage reproduction. Periods of high dispersal rates of Phytopthora ramorum are during windstorms and rain events. Be especially vigilant about disinfecting shoes, etc., after storms.

Wood brought from outside of the park for building a beach fire must be pine or almond. Do not bring oak, fir, redwood, madrone, or tanoak unless they are certified to be free of Phytophthora ramorum. Because Phytophthora ramorum may be found on a large number of trees and other plants and in soil, there are often restrictions on the transportation of these items from areas affected by Sudden Oak Death in order to limit the spread of this pathogen. When in doubt, do not remove infected material from where it is found.

Warm dry summers and cool rainy winters characterize the Point Reyes Peninsula’s climate, similar to the type of climate that prevails on the Mediterranean. While this is the general trend, the weather may be quite different depending on which side of the Inverness Ridge you are visiting. For example, there are usually moderate to strong winds on the exposed headlands and outer beaches and lighter breezes on the east side of Inverness Ridge. The moderating influence of the Pacific Ocean creates a climate with no great extremes of heat or cold. Weather can change rapidly at Point Reyes. Tomales Bay can act as a wind tunnel. Be aware of afternoon wind forecasts.

Although there is very little rain during summer months, there is often dense fog. If you are visiting Bear Valley or Tomales Bay, expect patchy morning fog to burn off by mid-day. Afternoons are often sunny and warm with a light breeze. By contrast, the beaches and headlands are often 20 degrees cooler with heavy fogs common throughout the day in July, August and September.

The coastal areas of Point Reyes experience some of the clearest days in late September, October and early November. The occasional storm will start rolling through in late October, bringing clouds, wind, and rain. The strongest winds occur in November and December during occasional southerly gales. Winds have been clocked at 130 miles per hour at the Lighthouse on the Point, but the annual maximum wind velocity is 43 miles per hour. Winds are much lighter on the eastern side of the Inverness Ridge, but it is an unusual day that does not bring afternoon breezes to Point Reyes.

Headlands and beaches on the Pacific Coast are subject to frequent heavy fogs. During most of the year, the water temperatures near the coast are lower than that of the ocean farther to the west. As warm moist air from farther offshore travels east it encounters these frigid coastal waters. The air cools, condenses, and produces fog. The fog can blanket the ocean for more than 50 miles off the shore and often smothers the beaches. Heavy fogs are most common in July, August and September.

Rainfall averages about 12 inches per year out on the Point where the Lighthouse is located. The heaviest rainfall occurs in the winter months. A few miles inland the rainfall is much greater, averaging about 36 inches a year at Bear Valley. Although there is scarcely any rain from mid-April to October, the night and morning coastal fogs condense on the trees and keep the wooded hills moist. Come prepared for rain and drizzle to possibly last for several days. More rain falls east of Inverness Ridge than on the west side. In between winter rains, it is often sunny, calm and cool.

Most spring days are windy and even Bear Valley and Tomales Bay experience stiff breezes. Expect cool temperatures in March. Sunshine and higher temperatures can be found inland. By late May and early June, temperatures can be quite warm on the east side of Inverness Ridge. Inland temperatures in the summer are often 20 degrees warmer than temperatures on the Headlands and outer coast.

Current Park Weather

Remember that wildflowers are protected by law in national parks. Please don’t pick the wildflowers or crush them by straying off the trails. All objects (plants, animals, or parts of them such as flowers or antlers, historic artifacts, minerals, etc.) within the National Seashore are protected and may not be collected. However, certain products are available for personal (non-commercial) use only in limited quantities. These are: edible berries – 1 quart (1 liter) per person per day; edible mushrooms – 2 gallons (8 liters) plus 1 mushroom per adult per day;
unoccupied seashells, gathered by hand; and Daffodil flowers from the abandoned nursery site near the Laguna Trailhead – six (6) flowers per person per day.

Visitors will likely experience high winds, cool temperatures, fog and/or rain along the 0.5 mile (800 meter) walk to the Lighthouse, so dress appropriately. Please take your time walking from the parking lot to the Visitor Center and climbing the stairs.

The coastal water temperatures at Point Reyes rarely exceed 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Prolonged exposure to these temperatures can result in hypothermia (abnormally low body temperature) or death. Do not stay in the water for more than a few minutes unless you are wearing a wetsuit. Before swimming or wading, consider the weather conditions and whether you would be able to stay warm if you were to get wet. You have a much better chance of warming up again if the weather is sunny and hot as opposed to overcast, windy and cool. Don’t wait until you start to shiver or for your lips to turn blue before you get out of the water. If you start to shiver, you are already suffering from mild hypothermia. Get out of the water and try to warm up. Symptoms of hypothermia include uncontrollable fits of shivering, slurred speech, frequent stumbling. Cold water can be more dangerous than cold air since body temperature can be drained away much more quickly.

There were two white shark attacks at the mouth of Tomales Bay in 1996. In general, white sharks may be found near seal resting areas. The most likely place for a shark encounter in Tomales Bay is the area north of Tom’s Point.

The ocean is one of the most dangerous hazards found at the Seashore. Do not underestimate the power of the ocean. Numerous hazards exist along all beaches, including rough surf, sneaker waves, rip currents, contaminated water, hypothermia, and buried hot ashes. Hot coals may exist on the beach surface or just below the sand due to improperly extinguished beach fires. Put all fires out with water. Do not attempt to extinguish fires or cover the coals with sand. Please use common sense when near the water’s edge. There are no lifeguards present at the beaches within Point Reyes National Seashore.

Be aware of sneaker waves. A sneaker wave is an unexpectedly large wave, higher, stronger and reaching farther up the beach to levels far beyond where the normal waves reach. Beach goers, particularly children, can quickly be caught in the rip current and pulled out to deep water. If the person can not escape the current, they may drown. This has occurred numerous times at Point Reyes Beaches. Sneaker waves also have the ability to toss around large driftwood logs that may fall on a person, injuring or even killing them.

Never turn your back on the surf. Stay at least thirty yards away from the water on beaches facing the open ocean, particularly the Great Beach (North and South beaches), McClures Beach and Kehoe Beach. Watch out for sneaker waves. Sneaker waves are often preceded by a sudden lowering of the water level. Supervise children at all times. Avoid slippery rocks as you could be knocked off by a sneaker wave.

Rip currents are powerful, channeled currents of water flowing away from shore. They typically extend from the shoreline, through the surf zone, and past the line of breaking waves. Rip currents can occur at any beach with breaking waves. Rip currents can be killers.

If you are caught in a rip current, remain calm to conserve energy and think clearly. Never fight against the current. Think of it like a treadmill that cannot be turned off, which you need to step to the side of. Swim out of the current in a direction following the shoreline. When out of the current, swim at an angle–away from the current–towards shore. If you are unable to swim out of the rip current, float or calmly tread water. When out of the current, swim towards shore. If you are still unable to reach shore, draw attention to yourself by waving your arm and yelling for help.

Lagoons, such as those found at Abbotts Lagoon, Kehoe Beach, and occasionally at Drakes Beach, and similar bodies of water can be hazardous areas for swimming whether they are in parklands or other urban or rural areas. Rainfall runoff and stream flow from surrounding agricultural areas flows into the lagoons potentially carrying harmful bacteria with it. The lagoons are also collection areas for waste from deer, birds and other wildlife that congregate there as well as dog waste. Please exercise caution if you choose to swim/wade in these areas and closely watch dogs and children who may enter the water. Additional advisories (where applicable) will be posted at trailheads.

Remote controlled, motorized aircraft are prohibited due to potential disturbance to visitors and wildlife. Hang gliders require special use permit to operate in the park. Contact the Special Park Uses office at 415-464-5111 for information about hang gliding at Point Reyes.

Bicycles must remain on paved roads or on trails designated by signs for their use. Bicyclists may not exceed 15 mph (25 km/hr) on trails, and must yield to horses and pedestrians.

Non-motorized vessels may be used on freshwater lakes within the Seashore. They are also permitted at Abbott’s Lagoon, Limantour Estero and Drakes Esteros, except that Limantour and Drake’s Esteros are closed to all boat traffic from March 1 through June 30 each year to protect breeding wildlife. Personal water craft are prohibited in Tomales Bay.

Camping is allowed by permit only in designated backcountry campgrounds and on the western Tomales Bay beaches that are not closed for wildlife protection. Camping is limited to four nights per visit, with a maximum of 30 nights per year. We do not allow groups of more than 6 people to split up into individual sites. Groups are restricted to group sites only. No dogs or other pets are permitted in any campground or on park trails. Wood fires are prohibited in the hike-in campgrounds. Only gas stoves, charcoal or canned heat may be used for cooking.

Store your food and other scented items properly in the food storage lockers provided at the campsite. While the lockers prevent larger animals from getting properly stored food, mice can gain access into the lockers through small drain holes. Campers may wish to use steel wool to plug these holes during their stay. Please remove the steel wool upon departure. Do not leave any food unattended or stored in your tent. Raccoons, foxes and skunks are plentiful and aggressive. Do not feed wild animals.

Quiet hours are from sundown to sunrise. Respect your neighbor, the wilderness and natural quiet. Campsites should be left clean. Pack out all trash, food scraps, packaging. Food scraps tempt wildlife into camping areas and may endanger them and you. Carry water with you, as there are few water sources emptying into the bay on the west side. Boil, treat, or filter any water obtained from the park. If you wash dishes, all soaps can adversely affect water. Use biodegradable soap when possible. Do not return wash water to the bay; dispose of all dirty water 100 feet (30 meters) at least from the source. Campers must vacate their campsite by noon on their day of departure, but are welcome to continue hiking and exploring the park after noon.

Fires are allowed on beaches but are subject to restrictions. A permit is required and is available at the visitor centers or from field rangers. Permits are issued free of charge on a same day basis (the same-day you plan to have a fire). During periods of high fire danger, all open fires may be prohibited. Check with a visitor center for fire closures on the day you obtain your permit. Wood fires are allowed only on beaches (below the high tide line, if possible), 30 feet (9 meters) or more from vegetation and other flammable material – nowhere else.

Reasonable amounts of driftwood may be gathered from beaches. Driftwood should be dry and clean (i.e., no wood coated with creosote or other chemicals, no wood embedded with nails or other metal objects), and shouldn’t be much larger or longer than your arm. Wood brought from outside of the park must be pine or almond. Do not bring oak, fir, redwood, madrone, or tanoak unless they are certified to be free of the plant pathogen Phytophthora ramorum which causes Sudden Oak Death.

The fire may not be more than 36 inches (0.9 meters) in diameter. Before leaving your beach fire, put it out completely with water. Douse the fire with water, stir the coals, douse with water again. Repeat until the coals do not emit any heat. Do not cover the coals with sand as it will only insulate the heat and be an unseen danger to wildlife and barefoot visitors. Fires must be extinguished by 12 midnight.

Charcoal fires are allowed in the Bear Valley and Drakes Beach picnic areas and the backcountry campgrounds in the grills provided. Visitors may also have charcoal fires in their own self-contained barbecue grills. Completely extinguish the briquettes and pack out the ash and charcoal. Visitors planning to cook food over a beach fire or barbecue should come prepared with an alternative means (i.e., self-contained gas stove) of cooking in the event of high, very high or extreme fire danger.

Fishing is closely regulated in the park and is subject to California State Fish and Game regulations. It is the individual’s responsibility to be familiar with the state laws pertaining to the area they intend to fish, and with the species and limits of fish they take. A valid state fishing license is required. Fishing is allowed on park beaches and freshwater lakes and ponds. Fishing is prohibited in Lagunitas Creek and all its tributaries including Olema and Bear Valley Creeks, in all inland freshwater streams in the park, in Limantour Estero, and in the Point Reyes Headlands Marine Conservation Area.

Horses are permitted on all open trails in the park. The Bear Valley Trail (between the Mt. Wittenberg Trail and the Glen Trail junctions), the Meadow Trail, and the Old Pine Trail are closed to horses on weekends and holidays. Horses are prohibited at Kule Loklo, Drake’s Beach, Earthquake Trail, Woodpecker Trail, and on roadways. Llamas are prohibited from Tomales Point Tule Elk Reserve and the Limantour area from Home Bay to the Coast Trail/Woodward Valley Trail Junction from the beach up to Inverness Ridge. Maximum number of horses or pack animals in any campground is eight. Horses are not allowed at Glen Camp. Pack animals and horses must be tied to hitch rails.

Stinging nettle is a common plant at Point Reyes. Horses can react strongly if they are stung by this plant’s small needle-like hairs. In extreme cases, horses have died after extensive exposure to this plant. Some trails may be overgrown at certain times of the year with nettle. Both horse and rider should avoid this plant. The best way to do this is to stay on the trail.

To help control the spread of non-native plants, please feed horses weed-free feed for a few days before visiting the park. Please do not shovel manure out of horse trailers in parking lots or elsewhere within the National Seashore. Carry plenty of water! Always take a trail map with you. Free maps are available at visitor centers. Study the map carefully before beginning your trip so that you will know the names and locations of trails. In the event of an accident, this will assist rangers in locating the injured party quicker. It is best not to ride alone. In case of an accident, send someone to the nearest visitor center or ranger station or call 911. Give a good description of your location and the nature of injury to both horse and rider.

Allow plenty of time for your ride. Trails over Inverness Ridge can be steep and physically stressful for your horse. Plan adequate rest stops. Please share the trail. Horses have the right of way: hikers yield to horses and are asked to stand on the downhill side of slopes, and bicyclists yield to both horses and hikers. Remain alert. Remember that interactions can occur with little warning on curves and hills. Slow your horse to a walk when encountering other trail users.

To control erosion and lessen impact, short-cutting trails or switchbacks is prohibited. Do not leave pack animals unattended for extended periods of time in campground areas, unless you are camping at the site and have obtained a permit for overnight use. Horses may only be tied to hitching rails, not to trees, faucets, picnic tables, etc. Please check at the Visitor Centers for trails that are closed to horses.

Camping is by permit only in three established campgrounds. Permits must be obtained at the Bear Valley Visitor Center before starting your trip. Reservations are recommended and can be made in person at the Bear Valley Visitor Center. Phone reservations are taken from 9am-2pm on Mondays through Fridays at 415-663-8054. The maximum number of horses or pack animals permitted overnight at Sky, Coast and Wildcat Campgrounds is six. Horses are not permitted over-night at Glen Camp. Llamas are not permitted at Coast Campground. Grazing in the wilderness areas is prohibited. All feed for the animals must be packed in with you. There is usually potable water available at each of the camps from faucets. Sky and Wildcat Campgrounds also have a water trough for horses and pack animals. Special Use Permits are required for commercial horseback riding or pack trains into the backcountry. Call 415-464-5111 for more information.

Metal detecting and detectors are prohibited in the park to protect cultural and historic resources. Metal detectors may be transported through the park if they are cased and broken down so as to prevent their use.

All pets must be restrained at all times while in the Seashore on a leash no longer than six feet long. Pets may not be tied to an object and left unattended, or be allowed to make unreasonable noise. Pets are not permitted in public buildings, on most trails, or in campgrounds. Pets are permitted on the Kehoe Trail to Kehoe Beach, and on the Bolinas Ridge, Randall, Jewell, and McCurdy Trails. Please observe all signs indicating pet restrictions.

Wildlife may not be viewed with an artificial light at night, nor approached so that animal behavior is altered. Respect the needs of wild animals and birds. Wildlife are sensitive to our presence and may change their behavior just by seeing us. Disturbing wildlife when they are resting or feeding may be life threatening to them.

To protect the snowy plover, do not approach birds or nests. Avoid prolonged picnicking near plover nesting habitat. Stay out of fenced or posted habitat areas, and do not approach fencing. Keep pets out of plover areas and where authorized, keep dogs leashed. Do not light fires near plover breeding areas. Dispose of garbage properly to avoid attracting plover predators. Equestrians must stay out of nesting areas. Observe posted restrictions and keep to wet sand in plover habitat. Do not collect kelp or driftwood from the beach; it provides nesting and feeding habitat for snowy plovers. Do not fly kites, hang glide or toss Frisbees or balls near snowy plover nesting habitat. Fireworks are prohibited. Other activities causing disturbance may also be restricted. Please report to park staff any nests, threats or disturbances to plovers.

For your own safety, always observe elephant seals from a distance. Use binoculars and spotting scopes. If a seal becomes alert or nervous and begins to move away, you are too close. Stay at least 100 feet from any marine mammal.
Do not come between a cow and pup, a bull and a group of cows, or two bulls challenging each other. Watch quietly; whisper. Move slowly. Bring your pets only where they are allowed. Observe beach closures and restrictions.

For your own safety, always observe elk from a distance. Use binoculars and spotting scopes. If an elk becomes alert or nervous and begins to move away, you are too close. If viewing from your car, pull off the road or park in designated areas. If you are on foot, stay on the trail; do not come between a cow and calf, a bull and a group of cows, or two bulls challenging each other. Watch quietly; whisper. Move slowly. Do not feed the elk. Feeding elk or any other wildlife is unhealthy for the animals, potentially dangerous for visitors, and strictly prohibited. Ride your bicycle only on designated trails. Within the Tomales Point Tule Elk Reserve, bicycles are only permitted on the Pierce Point Road. Bicycles are prohibited on the Tomales Point and McClures Beach trails. Pets are prohibited in most areas where elk may be seen, including the Tomales Point Tule Elk Reserve. Do not collect or remove elk antlers. They are an important source of calcium for many wildlife species such as rodents and deer.

On the water or beach, follow Marine Mammal Protection Act regulations – stay away 300 feet (100 meters) from whales, seals, and sea lions. Harbor seals are most sensitive during their pupping season, which is approximately March 1 through June 30, and as they molt in July and August. You may see single pups but do not disturb them. Usually, a parent is feeding nearby and has only left the pup for a brief period. The parent may abandon the pup if they sense humans nearby. It is extremely difficult to reunite a mother and her pup after the pup has been moved, and very difficult to raise a pup in captivity. If you are concerned about a marine mammal, contact the park dispatch office at 415-464-5170 or park visitor centers and leave a message about the location and condition of the animal.

Please take care not to make your presence known — either visually or audibly — when you come across an individual or a group of harbor seals when you are on land or on the water. Seals may flee into the water immediately when they hear or see a human. This flight disrupts their resting, can cause mother-pup separations and may endanger their health. If you see the seals raise their heads in a startle response, immediately back away so that they do not feel threatened.

To protect harbor seals from disturbance during the most crucial part of the pupping season, from March 1 through June 30 the National Park Service has closed the following areas to the public: Drakes Estero, Limantour Estero and South Blue Gum Beach. Pelican Point, Duck Island and the east side of Hog Island are closed to the public year round. Drakes Estero and the mouth to Drakes Estero are closed to boating, canoeing and kayaking. Double Point is closed to all visitor access. Tomales Point and Limantour Spit are harbor seal pupping areas, but are not closed. Please use care not to disturb the animals at these places and keep a distance of 300 feet (90 m) away. Ask at visitor centers for a map indicating closed areas.

During summer and fall, brown pelicans, a federally listed endangered species, roost on islands and floats in the bay. Many other seabirds make their home on the bay as well. Keep at least 100 feet (30 meters) away.

When exploring intertidal regions it is important to remember that these places are extremely sensitive. When the tide is low these animals are simply trying to “hold on” until the water comes back over them. Here are some simple rules for tidepool etiquette: Be careful walking. It is wet and slippery down there and a fall could mean injury to you and the animals. Also, many of the animals are not easy to see so look closely. Look more, touch less. Most of the animals will die if they are picked up and some may hurt you if touched. Get down low and watch them at their level, this way you can see their interactions and learn a lot.

Weapons, including firearms, B-B guns, slingshots, bows and arrows, or any object capable of discharging a projectile, as well as weapons prohibited by the state, are prohibited and must be secured to prevent their use. Hunting within the National Seashore is prohibited.

Stay on trails to prevent erosion as well as to avoid poison oak, stinging nettles and ticks. Ticks that carry Lyme disease are known to occur in this area. The quicker ticks are removed, the less the chance of transmittal of the organism that causes illness. Wearing light-colored, long pants helps you spot them; tuck your pant legs inside your socks to keep them from crawling up your legs. Always check your body completely at the end of your hike. Do not shortcut on switchbacks. Please do not enter closed areas. They are closed for your safety and resource protection. Stay away from cliff edges. Loose soil can give way suddenly and you may fall. Do not climb cliffs.

While hiking in the park, dress appropriately for possible weather changes. Wear layered clothing and be prepared for changing conditions. Always carry food and water for longer hikes. Dehydration is a common cause of exhaustion, fatigue and headaches. Raccoons and other animals can quickly find and ransack unattended food and daypacks. If horses are passing on the trail, step to the downhill side and greet the rider so the horse knows you are there; do not touch the animals. There may be trail closures in effect. Please check at the visitor center before heading out on the trails. Don’t forget to carry water and tell a friend where you are going if you travel alone. It is always better to travel with someone.

The protozoan Giardia lamblia may be present in natural sources of water and can cause severe illness. Do not drink water from streams and all other natural sources without treating. Water may be treated by boiling, filtering, or using iodine or other chemical water purifiers. Water treatment disinfecting chemicals are not considered as reliable as heat in killing giardia. Use a Giardia-rated filter in place of chemicals or heat disinfecting. Backcountry surface water should be boiled for one minute. The evening meal is an ideal time to boil water for drinking and brushing teeth for the next day’s use. Potable drinking water is available at visitor centers and in campgrounds.

Many of the cliffs and bluffs found within Point Reyes National Seashore are composed of friable rocks and are quite unstable. Rock falls and slumps occur regularly, so visitors should stay several feet away from the edge of cliff tops and the base of the cliffs. Because of the crumbly nature of the rocks, rock climbing within Point Reyes National Seashore is discouraged.

Boaters must remove human waste. Disposing of human waste in the bay or onto park beaches is prohibited, so campers must bring portable toilets or limit camping to Marshall Beach or Tomales Beach, where pit toilets are available. No overnight parking for boat-in campers is allowed in Point Reyes National Seashore or Tomales Bay State Park. Move gently through the water so that you do not disturb wildlife.

Be a prepared boater. Learn about the area and what to expect. Check local tidetables and maps. Bring adequate liquids and food. Check all equipment so that it is in good condition before you get on the water. Carry extra dry clothing. Know some first aid such as the signs and symptoms of hypothermia, sunstroke, heat exhaustion, etc. Check at park visitor centers and via the park web site for current weather and wildlife sightings. Personal floatation devices MUST be worn at all times. For safety, paddle in groups if possible. Ensure that you are close enough to reach fellow paddlers quickly if trouble arises. Paddle close to shore or if an open-water crossing is necessary, choose the most direct route.

Hog Island is in the northern section of Tomales Bay across from Whites Gulch on the west side and Nicks Cove on the east side. It is a critical wildlife habitat, a favorite haul-out for seals and roosting place for brown pelicans. The island is open on the west side only for day use. Heart’s Desire Beach has orange floats placed to mark the swimming area during the summer. Boaters may pull up on the southern edge of the beach to access the restrooms and drinking water. No overnight use or beach fires. Indian Beach is north of Hearts Desire and has a redwood kotca, a traditional Coast Miwok sleeping shelter on it. A pit toilet is available for use.

The change between high and low tide can create strong currents, especially at the mouth of Tomales Bay. Check the tide charts. Low tides also expose mudflats at the south end of Tomales Bay and you may become stuck at Millerton Point or White House Pool access points.

Horseback riders have right-of-way on the trails with hikers coming second. Bicyclists must yield to both of these trail user groups. Be aware that many horses are easily spooked when approached from behind. Reduce your speed when approaching horses or hikers. When approaching from behind, announce your presence. Stop on the downhill side of the trail while horses pass. The speed limit on all trails, even when headed downhill, is 15 mph. Be courteous. If trails are dry and dusty, slow down even more so as not to leave hikers in a cloud of dust.

The maximum number of bicyclists in any one group is 10. Larger groups of cyclists will have to divide into groups no larger than 10. This size restriction is necessary for the safety of cyclists using public roadways and authorized trails within the Park. These roadways and trails are narrow and winding and will not safely accommodate large numbers of bicyclists.

Loose dirt and gravel cover many of the trails. This slick surface can be difficult to maneuver in and can make for easy slide outs. The loose dirt can also hide potholes. These technical riding surfaces challenge even the most experienced bikers. It is recommended to always wear a helmet, a long-sleeved shirt and long pants. Carry plenty of water!

The historic sites are fragile and the information they contain is a part of the historic fabric of Point Reyes’ history. Please do not bother them.

Point Reyes National Seashore is home to wide diversity of wildlife. Nearly forty species of land mammals and at least a dozen species of marine mammals may be seen here. Birders scouring the Point Reyes peninsula have identified nearly half of the bird species found in North America. The park is home to one of the largest populations of tule elk and hosts a thriving breeding ground for the once nearly extinct elephant seal. Jutting 10 miles into the Pacific Ocean, Point Reyes offers one of the best spots for viewing the migrations of the California gray whale. Nearly half the park has been designated as a Wilderness Area.

For thousands of years, vast numbers of tule elk thrived in the grasslands of central and coastal California. The tule elk herds had virtually disappeared by 1860, 13 years before the state awarded them complete protection. In the spring of 1978, two bulls and eight cows were brought in from the San Luis Island Wildlife Refuge near Los Banos. The elk were contained within a temporary, three acre enclosure to allow for adjustment to their new surroundings. That summer, 6 of the cows bore calves. In the fall, 17 elk were released from the enclosure on Tomales Point to 2,600 acres of open grassland and coastal scrub. By the summer of 1988, the population was at 93 animals. The population census taken in 2000 counted over 400 elk. There are two separate herds of tule elk at Point Reyes. The larger herd is at Tomales Point, a 2,600-acre fenced reserve at the north end of the Seashore. The other is a herd of roughly 30 animals that was recently transplanted from Tomales Point and now roams free in the Limantour wilderness area of the Seashore. The reintroduction of this free-ranging herd is an important step in the ecological restoration in the park.

The tule elk is a subspecies of North American elk that occurs only in California. They are smaller and lighter in color than other subspecies of elk. The tule elk can be found in several locations within the park but the best chance of seeing them is in the Tule Elk Preserve at Tomales Point. They graze freely and are often seen near the road as you drive into the preserve.

The term “beaver” often leads people to imagine a large rodent living in ponds and building dams. This is not the case with the mountain beaver (Aplodontia rufa). Mountain beavers are an unusual and primitive species of rodent. They are about the size of a muskrat, 10-12 inches (27-30 cm) long. However, they have a very short tail, less than one-half inch (1 cm) long. The subspecies of mountain beaver found at Point Reyes, the Point Reyes mountain beaver (Aplodontia rufa phaea), is endemic to the area – found nowhere else. It is only known to occur in western Marin County, almost entirely within Point Reyes National Seashore. Here it is found on cool, moist, north-facing slopes in moderately dense coastal scrub. This scrub vegetation typically includes coyote brush as well as sword fern, bracken fern, poison oak, California nettle, and cow parsnip, which tend to grow in the moister areas.

Most of the area occupied by the Point Reyes mountain beaver was regularly burned by Coast Miwok Indians who once occupied the Point Reyes peninsula. In the last 100 years, however, fires have been far less frequent and routinely suppressed. This fire control has resulted in a buildup of highly combustible fuels. The Vision Fire of October 3-12, 1995 burned 12,354 acres (5,000 ha), with 94% of the burn area within Point Reyes National Seashore. The fire consumed mostly coastal scrub, but also some Bishop Pine and Douglas fir forest, grassland, and riparian habitats. The fire burned 40% of the known range of the Point Reyes mountain beaver, including the majority of what was believed to be prime habitat. The post-fire survival rate of mountain beavers throughout the burn area was very low. It is expected to take up to 20 years post-fire for full recovery of the population.

Marine biologists have identified nearly a third of all known marine mammal species in the waters surrounding Point Reyes. Blue whales and humpback whales feed here during spring and summer months. Gray whales migrate past the park’s shores twice a year on their round trip from Alaska to Baja.

Engaging in the longest migration of any mammal, the California gray whale (Eschrichtius robustus) swims 10,000 miles (16,000 kilometers) each year, spending about one third of its life migrating from the cold, nutrient-rich waters of Alaska, to the warm, shallow lagoons of Baja California. Along the way, these incredible animals can often be seen from the shores of Point Reyes. What drives the gray whale to undertake this incredible annual round trip from Alaska to Baja? Food and reproduction.

There is a mystery about these beautiful giants, the Humpback Whale. Like humans, they breathe air, have warm blood and give birth to live young. However, their home is in the depths of the dark ocean where so much is concealed from our probing human eyes. As the gray whales migrate along the Pacific Coast, we may have a brief chance to view them before their return to a world that remains mysterious.

The harbor seal, northern fur seal, California sea lion, Steller sea lion and northern elephant seal are the five species of pinnipeds a visitor might see at Point Reyes. Harbor seals can usually be distinguished from elephant seals by size alone. The harbor seal is a rather small marine mammal, only getting up to five-six feet (1.5-1.8 m) in length and 250 pounds (115 kg) in weight, whereas elephant seals are much larger. Bull elephant seals average about 3,000 to 5,500 pounds (1,360 to 2,500 kg), while females range in weight from 800 to 1200 pounds (360 to 545 kg). However, yearling and weaned pups weigh about 300 pounds (135 kg), so a young elephant seal could be mistaken for an adult harbor seal, if one attempts to identify the seal by its size. What color is the seal? While young elephant seals are a uniform gray, harbor seals are typically silver, white or gray, with black spots, although some harbor seals also are black or brown with white spots. Sometimes a harbor seal may have a reddish colored head or body, which is due to iron oxide deposits on the hair shafts.

After being absent for more than 150 years, elephant seals returned to the sandy Point Reyes Headlands in the early 1970s. In 1981, the first breeding pair was discovered near Chimney Rock. Since then, researchers have found that the colony is growing at a dramatic annual average rate of 16 percent. Fanning out from their initial secluded spot, the seals have expanded to popular beaches. From December through March a breeding colony of elephant seals can be observed from Elephant Seal Overlook near Chimney Rock, above beautiful Drakes Bay. The males are the first to arrive here, in December, to stake out a claim on the beach. Then pregnant females begin to arrive and soon give birth to a single pup. Subadult and juvenile animals arrive and the colony can number close to one hundred animals. Elephant seals are the largest pinniped.

From the Overlook you can witness the fascinating behavior of these animals, including male dominance contests, birthing of pups and the interactions of mothers and pups. You will hear the distinctive vocalizations of females, pups and the powerful trumpeting of the adult males (bulls) which can be heard for over a mile. During weekends and holidays, highly trained docents staff the Overlook. They have binoculars, spotting scopes, and a wealth of information to share with you.

Many invertebrates like corals, sponges and worms can be found at Point Reyes within intertidal habitats. Intertidal habitats exist on rocky shorelines that are only covered part of the time with water due to the tide. These pools are popular places for these animals to live because they receive a lot of sunlight which provides food for the things that intertidal creatures eat.

Point Reyes Seashore has the Red Octopus (Octopus rubescens), but like may inhabitants of the sea, it is almost never seen. They do live in intertidal areas, but spotting one is extremely rare and if you do, it is safest to not touch the animal. Another common cephalopod is the common squid, but don’t expect to see this one either. They only will come towards the shore area to breed and then die.

More than 70,000 acres of habitat harbor an incredible variety of bird life. Nearly 490 avian species have been observed in the park and on adjacent waters. The park’s coastal location and its wealth of unspoiled habitats, estuaries, grasslands, coastal scrub and forest all attract many migrating and wintering birds. The projection of the peninsula some 10 miles seaward from the “mainland” makes Point Reyes National Seashore a landing spot for many vagrants — birds that may have made errors in navigation and thus are unexpected in this area. All of these factors account for the Point Reyes area consistently reporting one of the highest tallies in the nation every year during the Christmas Bird Count.

In Bear Valley you can see warblers, sparrows, kinglets, thrushes, wrens, woodpeckers, hummingbirds, and owls. In the Limantour area look for wading birds in the marshes, waterfowl on the ponds, shorebirds on the beach, brown pelicans cruising over the breakers, and birds of prey soaring over dunes and wetlands. Bolinas Lagoon attracts cormorants, pelicans, kingfishers, and a variety of waterfowl and shorebirds. Audubon Canyon Ranch’s Bolinas Lagoon Preserve protects heron and egret rookeries. In winter, green-backed heron, hooded merganser, ring-necked duck, and grebes can be seen at Five Brooks Pond. In grasses and trees, watch for pileated woodpeckers, swallows, accipiters, warblers, and thrushes. An old pine plantation provides winter roosting habitat for long-eared and great-horned owls on Estero Trail. Look for water and shore birds such as great egrets, great blue herons, and loons in the Estero. Watch for hawks above the grasslands.

Winter rains bring new life to West Marin creeks. For thousands of years Coho salmon and steelhead trout have returned from the vast ocean feeding grounds to the shaded streams of their birth. Look for salmon one to three days after a rainstorm. Traditionally, January is the best month to spot the spawning Coho and steelhead. There are several places in western Marin County to view the spawning fish. Other fish that exist in the park but are endangered are the Threespine Stickleback, Tidewater Goby, Sacramento Splittail, Chinook Salmon and Green Sturgeon.

At Point Reyes, there are six species of salamanders. The most common include the Rough-skinned newt, the California newt, the slender salamander, Ensatina, and arboreal salamander. Larval California giant salamanders are found in many of the cooler streams in the Olema Valley, but adults are rarely seen except on warm, rainy nights.

The 14 species of reptiles found at Point Reyes National Seashore are found in a wide variety of habitats. Turtles utilize habitats such as freshwater ponds, streams, drainage ditches, marshes, stock ponds and the open ocean. Lizards occur in almost every habitat except the dampest innermost forest and the tidal salt marsh. Snakes prefer warm and dry environments; therefore the humid environment at Point Reyes limits the population sizes of several species. Some reptiles that you might see are the Northern Alligator Lizard, Southern Alligator Lizard, Rubber Boa, Racer, Common Kingsnake, Gopher Snake, Aquatic Garter Snake. Western Terrestrial Garter Snake, Western Fence Lizard, Western Skink, Western Rattlesnake, Loggerhead Sea Turtle, Green Sea Turtle, Pacific Ridley Sea Turtle, and Leatherback Sea Turtle.

There are four species of frogs and toads known from the Seashore, one of which is not native to this area. The bullfrog was introduced into California in the 1800s, and has spread throughout much of the state. The most common frog is the Pacific treefrog, a species that calls in large, loud choruses in the late winter and spring. The California red-legged frog is Federally listed as a threatened species. While populations of this frog are greatly reduced throughout many parts of the state, there are still good-sized populations of this frog at Point Reyes.

A variety of hardy crustaceans exist in the Seashore. Shrimp and crabs are the bigger varieties but you could also see Fairy Shrimp, Tadpole Shrimp, Water Fleas, & Clam Shrimp if you had a microscope. These are very important as they serve as food for the larger fish. Krill, although rarely seen by visitors, can feed the occasional gray or blue whale passing by the tip of the peninsula. Many of the crustaceans that live here are important players in lower trophic levels of the ocean and are very small. However, there are plenty of big guys too. Many types of crabs (and their old shells) live here, such as the Pacific rock crab, Thick-Clawed Porcelain Crab, Pea Crab, and Pacific Mole Crab. Two types of barnacles that are common to find are the Gooseneck Barnacle and the White-acorn Barnacle.

California has over 30,000 species of insects within the state which scientists put into Class Insecta. They occur in all terrestrial habitats on earth except the poles and certainly occur in abundance at Point Reyes. As primary consumers they eat dead and decaying things, which return those things to the earth as nutrients.

Point Reyes hosts a large variety of habitats that hold a large variety of arthropods. Some of the insects here are listed with the Endangered Species Act. The Myrtle’s Silverspot butterfly is endangered and the Marin elfin butterfly, Point Reyes blue butterfly, San Francisco Lacewing, San Francisco Forktail Damselfly, Bumblebee Scarab Beetle, and Globose Dune Beetle are all species of special concern. The North American Butterfly Association has been conducting annual counts at Point Reyes for several years and often finds the rare butterflies.

A commonly seen caterpillar in the fall is the Yellow-spotted Tiger Moth, which is black with a yellow band through the middle and has long white hairs jutting up all over its body. The spring may provide some excellent opportunities to find butterflies in the park. You may see the Pipevine Swallowtail butterfly on woodland borders or the Spring Azure butterfly anywhere within the park. In the summer, beetles are more easily spotted along the ground when the vegetation is dry and brown. Jerusalem crickets are plump and plentiful along the coast and many species of snakes feed on them.

Spiders are often seen, but not as often identified. A couple of the more conspicuous ones include the flower spider (Misumena vaita), which looks like a small crab and hangs out in flowers. It can change colors to match its surroundings so that when an insect, often a bee, lands on the flower it can attack and eat. The red-backed jumping spider (Phidippus johnsoni) is found at Point Reyes and even included in a state-wide study. They are black with red spots on their abdomen and they jump like their name implies. If you see a beautiful web, check the middle for Cyclosa conica. This classic-looking spider decorates its web with dead victims to hide amongst as camouflage.

Wildlife can be unpredictable and dangerous. But visitors to Point Reyes National Seashore need not worry much about being harmed by wildlife if they use a bit of common sense. Always maintain a safe distance of at least 90 meters 300 feet (90 meters) from large animals such as elk and mountain lions, and at least 75 feet (23 meters) from other wildlife. It is illegal to be within 100 feet (30 meters) of marine mammals. Never position yourself between a bull elk and its harem, a mountain lion and its prey, or an adult and its offspring. Females with young can be especially defensive.

Bull elk behave aggressively during their rutting season. Stay on designated trails, where the elk are accustomed to encountering people. If you encounter an elk on the trail, stop and evaluate the situation. Do not approach the elk. Wait for it to proceed on its way. Or you can return to the trailhead. But, as with any potentially dangerous animal, don’t completely turn your back on the elk. Keep an eye on it and remain aware of what it is doing. See our Wildlife Precautions page for further safety tips.

It is illegal to feed wildlife, including squirrels and birds. Feeding wild animals makes them dependent on people, and these animals sometimes end up biting the hands of people who try to feed them. Diseases and/or parasites may also be transmitted from animals to humans.

Do not harass wildlife. Harassment is any human action that causes unusual behavior, or a change of behavior, in an animal. Repeated encounters with people can have negative, long-term impacts on wildlife, including increased levels of stress and the avoidance of essential feeding areas.

Point Reyes has an abundance of deer which are often found feeding on the shoulders of roadways. Automobile collisions with deer occur on an almost daily basis. Most of the roads of Point Reyes are windy and narrow, so slow down, observe speed limits and allow your passengers to enjoy the scenery.

No entrance fee is charged at Point Reyes.

CAMPING FEES:

$15/night/site for 1 to 6 people
$30/night/site for 7 to 14 people
$40/night/site for 15 to 25 people

SHUTTLE BUS

The fee is $5.00 per person for anyone over 16 years of age. On weekends from late December to mid-April when the weather is good, the west end of Sir Francis Drake Blvd is closed to vehicle traffic. Shuttle buses transport visitors to the lighthouse and Chimney Rock areas. Shuttle tickets may be purchased at Drakes Beach between the hours of 9 a.m. and 3 p.m. weekends and holidays, weather permitting. The shuttle buses run approximately every 20 minutes starting at 9:30 a.m. and service the headlands area from Drakes Beach to the Lighthouse parking lot to Chimney Rock parking lot back to Drakes Beach. Children 16 years and under ride free. Shuttles are cancelled if weather is poor. See our Winter Shuttle Bus System page for more details.

Point Reyes National Seashore offers year-round backcountry camping along Drakes Bay and amongst the hills and valleys of the Phillip Burton Wilderness, and boat-in camping on the west shore of Tomales Bay. Because of its location near the Metropolitan San Francisco Bay Area, the campsites at Point Reyes are in great demand. Reservations are strongly suggested.

Each campground has a vault toilet and a water faucet. The water from the faucets is usually potable, but campers should bring along some means of treating the water in case the campground’s water treatment system fails, at which time signage would be posted at the water faucet to alert campers that the water is not potable. Each 1-6 person campsite has a picnic table, a food storage locker and a charcoal grill. Group sites have two picnic tables, two food storage lockers and one large or two regular charcoal grills.

Coast Camp is nestled within a small coastal grassy valley with easy access to the beach and tidepools. The beach is within 200 yards (200 meters) of the campground. The shortest approach to Coast Camp is via the 1.8 miles (2.9 km) slightly uphill hike on the Laguna and Firelane Trails, starting at the Laguna Trailhead just past the hostel. Following the Coast Trail from the Coast Trailhead before the hostel offers an easy, flat 2.7 miles (4.3 km) route and is open to bicycles. There are twelve individual sites and two group sites. Sites 1-7 are in a small semi-protected canyon.

Glen Camp is a quiet and secluded camp deep within a wooded valley protected from ocean breezes. The shortest hike to this camp is a moderate 4.6 miles (7.4 km) by foot along the Bear Valley Glen Trails. To access Glen Camp by bicycle, start at the Five Brooks Trailhead, follow the Stewart Trail to the Glen Trail, then north to the Glen Camp Loop, and finish by descending to Glen Camp. This is a strenuous 6.3 mile (10.1 km) bike ride. It is a 2.5 mile (4 km) strenuous hike to the beach at Wildcat Camp. No groups, horses, or pack animals are allowed at Glen Camp. There are twelve individual sites.

Sky Camp is located on the western side of Mt. Wittenberg at an elevation of 1,025 feet (310 meters). In clear weather, it has a sweeping view of Point Reyes, Drakes Bay, and the Pacific Ocean. The easiest and shortest approach is a 1.4 miles (2.2 km) slightly uphill hike or bicycle ride from the Sky Trailhead on Limantour Road. It is a 4 mile (6.4 km) moderately strenuous hike to the beach. Eleven individual sites and one group site are found here.

Wildcat Camp is located in an open meadow on a bluff overlooking the ocean with a short walk to the beach and a 2.0 mile (3.2 kilometer) round-trip walk to Alamere Falls. It is a 6.3 mile (10 kilometer) hike from Bear Valley or a 5.5 mile (8.8 kilometer) hike on the Coast Trail from Palomarin with access to Bass Lake. The only bicycling route is via a strenuous 6.7 mile (10.7 kilometer) ride along the Stewart Trail from the Five Brooks Trailhead. Five individual sites and three group sites are available; three of the individual sites only hold up to four people.

Tomales Bay boat-in camping is allowed on the west side National Park beaches north of Tomales Bay State Park’s Indian Beach. These beaches are tidally influenced and generally are small sandy coves backed against steep cliffs. All waste (including human) must be removed. Disposing of human waste in the bay or onto park beaches is prohibited, so campers must bring portable facilities or limit camping to Marshall Beach or Tomales Beach, where pit toilets are available. There is no potable water available. There are seasonal closures on some beaches. Check with the seashore reservation office for updates. Twenty permits are available each day – nine to parties of 1 to 6 people, eight to parties of 7 to 14 people, and three to parties of 15 to 25 people.

All campsites are accessible only by hiking, biking or horseback for the backcountry sites, and only by kayak or boat for the Tomales Bay sites. There is no car or RV camping available in the park. There are, however, many nearby campgrounds, located outside of Point Reyes National Seashore, that do have car and RV camping.

Hike-in camping is allowed only in one of the four established campgrounds at the numbered site specified on the permit. Boat-in camping is allowed on national park beaches on the west side of Tomales Bay north of Tomales Bay State Park’s Indian Beach.

Camping is by permit only. Camping permits must be obtained from the Bear Valley Visitor Center before starting your trip. When you arrive to pick up your permit, please be prepared to provide a description (color, make, model and license plate number) of any vehicles that you will be leaving overnight in the park. There is no after-hours self-registration for camping available. You must have made a reservation in advance to camp within Point Reyes National Seashore. If you have made a reservation and are arriving after 5 p.m., a permit will be left for you in a small box on the back side of the information board outside Bear Valley Visitor Center.

Campsites may be reserved up to three months (to the day) in advance. To obtain a reservation, call (415) 663-8054 between the hours of 9:00 am and 2:00 pm, Monday through Friday. Reservations by phone are not accepted at any other time. You may make reservations in person 7 days a week at the Bear Valley Visitor Center. Weekends and holidays fill up quickly, especially group sites, so reservations are strongly suggested.

A credit card payment is required for phone reservations. The non-refundable payment is due at the time the reservation is made. There are no refunds given for weather, illness, etc. Even though a campsite is guaranteed for your stay once the payment is made, you must still obtain the permit at the Bear Valley Visitor Center before your trip. When you arrive to check-in, please have vehicle descriptions (color, make, model, license plate number) for all vehicles in your party.

If you arrive after 5:00 pm, your permit will be in a small wooden box on the back side of the information board in front of the Visitor Center. You will need to fill in the highlighted sections of the permit, remove the carbon copies and place the carbon copies (with your list of vehicles attached) back in the wooden box. Attach the original permit to your backpack as you travel to your campsite and then attach the permit to a tent so that park personnel checking for compliance can easily find your permit.

Golden Gate National Recreation Area is 14 miles away. Muir Woods National Monument is 23 miles away. Fort Point National Historic Site is 33 miles away. Juan Bautista de Anza National Historic Trail at the Presidio is 34 miles away. San Francisco Maritime National Historic Park is 36 miles away. Alcatraz Island is 36 miles away. Rosie the Riveter / World War II Home Front National Historical Park is 30 miles away. John Muir National Historic Site is 47 miles away. Eugene O’Neill National Historic Site is 60 miles away. Pinnacles National Monument is 160 miles away. Tomales Bay State Park is 7 miles away. Samuel P. Taylor State Park is 7 miles away. Mount Tamalpais State Park is 21 miles away. Jack Mason Museum is 6 miles away. Bolinas Museum is 12 miles away. Other areas within driving distance are San Francisco, CA, Mendocino National Forest, Van Damme Beach State Park, Russian Gulch State Park, Stanislaus National Forest, Yosemite National Park and Sierra National Forest.

Point Reyes is located approximately 30 miles (50 km) north of San Francisco on Highway 1 along the west coast of California (see Maps). Travelers may approach the park from the winding scenic Highway 1, either northbound or southbound. You can also reach the park via Sir Francis Drake Boulevard or the Point Reyes/Petaluma Road.

From San Francisco, go north on U.S. Highway 101 across the Golden Gate Bridge. Follow U.S. 101 about 9 miles (14 km) north of the Golden Gate Bridge to the Sir Francis Drake-San Anselmo exit. Make sure you are in the lane for San Anselmo (the second lane from the right) and exit onto Sir Francis Drake Boulevard heading west. Follow Sir Francis Drake west approximately 21 miles (33 km) – passing through San Anselmo, Fairfax and Samuel P. Taylor State Park – until it intersects with Highway 1 at Olema. Turn right on Highway 1 and proceed north about 100 yards (100 m). Take the first left turn at Bear Valley Road and head west about 1/2 mile (0.8 km). Look for a big red barn on the left and a sign for Seashore information on the right. Turn left past the red barn and proceed up the driveway to the Bear Valley Visitor Center, the main park contact station.

Directions from the East Bay (San Francisco Bay Area): Follow Interstate 580 west across the Richmond-San Rafael Bridge. Shortly after the bridge, take the Sir Francis Drake Blvd. exit (the second exit after the bridge). Follow Sir Francis Drake west approximately 22 miles (35 km) – passing through San Anselmo, Fairfax and Samuel P. Taylor State Park – until it intersects with Highway 1 at Olema. Turn right on Highway 1 and proceed north about 100 yards (100 m).
Take the first left turn at Bear Valley Road and head west about 1/2 mile (0.8 km). Look for a big red barn on the left and a sign for Seashore information on the right. Turn left past the red barn and proceed up the driveway to the Bear Valley Visitor Center, the main park contact station.

Directions from Sacramento: Follow Interstate 80 about 50 miles (80 km) west to Vallejo. From Vallejo, take California Highway 37 about 21 miles (33 km) west to the intersection of U.S. Highway 101 in Novato. Go north on U.S. Highway 101 about 2.5 miles (4 km) and take the Atherton Avenue-San Marin Drive exit.
Turn left onto San Marin Drive and head west for about 2.5 miles (4 km) to the junction with Novato Blvd. Turn right onto Novato Blvd. and proceed west for about 6 miles (10 km) to the Point Reyes-Petaluma Road. Turn left and follow the Point Reyes-Petaluma Road southwest for about 7 miles (11 km) to the junction with Platform Bridge Road. Turn right to stay on the Point Reyes-Petaluma Road and continue west for about 3 miles (5 km) to the junction with California Highway 1 in the town of Point Reyes Station. Turn left onto Highway 1, drive south through Point Reyes Station and continue south on Highway 1 approximately 2.5 miles (4 km) – if you get to a flashing red light, you’ve gone 100 yards (100 m) too far. Turn right onto Bear Valley Road and head west about 1/2 mile (0.8 km). Look for a big red barn on the left and a sign for Seashore information on the right. Turn left past the red barn and proceed up the driveway to the Bear Valley Visitor Center, the main park contact station.

Due to the high volume of traffic out to the Lighthouse and Chimney Rock areas during the elephant seal and gray whale migration, the park will be operating a shuttle bus system from the Drakes Beach parking lot (usually from New Year’s to Easter each year on weekends and holidays – weather permitting). Sir Francis Drake Boulevard from South Beach to the Lighthouse and Chimney Rock areas will be closed during shuttle operating hours. For more information call the Bear Valley Visitor Center at (415) 464-5100.

Approximate Mileage from the following major cities Point Reyes National Seashore :

By Car:

Santa Rosa, CA – 40.42 miles

San Francisco, CA – 37.74 miles

San Jose, CA – 84.53 miles

Daly City, CA – 41.21 miles

Sacramento, CA – 98.50 miles

Modesto, CA – 127.46 miles

Point Reyes National Seashore

1 Bear Valley Rd.

Point Reyes Station, CA 94956

(415) 464-5100

Fax (415) 663-8132

Map