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The volcano is located in the south-western part of the state of Washington

Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument offers a unique view of an active volcano where scientists are still learning things. You will be awed by the devastation it caused in 1980 and also be able to see how the land has recovered since that time. There is plenty of outdoor adventure for the outdoor enthusiast. You will find mountain climbing, backpacking, hiking, fishing, and fantastic scenery. Keep reading for further Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument information.

Uniqueness
Mount St. Helens erupted at 8:32 Sunday morning, May 18, 1980. Shaken by an earthquake measuring 5.1 on the Richter scale, the north face of this tall symmetrical mountain collapsed in a massive rock debris avalanche. Nearly 230 square miles of forest was blown over or left dead and standing. At the same time a mushroom-shaped column of ash rose thousands of feet skyward and drifted downwind, turning day into night as dark, gray ash fell over eastern Washington and beyond-to Portland, OR 45 miles away, and 16 hours later, to central Colorado. The hot gas and magma melted the snow and ice that covered the volcano. The resulting floodwater mixed with the rock and debris to create concrete-like mudflows that scoured river valleys surrounding the mountain resulting in the largest landslide in recorded history. The eruption lasted 9 hours, but Mount St. Helens and the surrounding landscape were dramatically changed within moments. You will be awed by the devastation.
Climbing Mount St. Helens is popular with both experienced and beginning mountaineers. The climb is not a trail hike; it is a rugged, off-trail scramble. The climb is suitable for people in good physical condition who are comfortable on steep irregular terrain. The route climbs 4,500 feet from trailhead to the rim in a distance of about 5 miles. Most climbers complete the round trip in 8 to 12 hours. A climbing permit is required year-round.

Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument has nearly 200 miles of trails where hikers can experience features of the 1980 eruption. Most of these trails can be accessed without a permit. Some circle the volcano, while others traverse high lakes and old growth forest north of the 1980 blast area.

Hikers may also once again explore trails that lead to the sapphire lakes, pinnacle studded ridges and flowered mountain slopes of the Mount Margaret Backcountry. Visitors to this rugged and spectacular portion of the Monument can see effects of the 1980 eruption of Mount St. Helens. Trails in the Mount Margaret Backcountry have narrow tread, are steep in places and can climb over 2,000 feet in elevation. Some trails are very challenging. Camping in the Mount Margaret Backcountry is another one of the many ways to explore Mount St. Helens backcountry.

Visitors will also enjoy the inside of an ancient lava flow at Ape Cave; the Coldwater Ridge Visitor Center where you can discover the plants and animals that are returning and thriving at Mount St. Helens and uncover the secrets of their survival; the Johnston Ridge Observatory where you’ll learn to “read” the effects of the 1980 eruption on the land from this visitor center that sits only 5 1/2 miles from the crater and discover that the eruption of Mount St. Helens was more than just a single event; Lava Canyon & Lahar where you will enjoy the thrill of a rushing river with impressive waterfalls; Mount St. Helens Visitor Center where you can learn the human history of the area before, during and after Mount St. Helens’ 1980 eruption; and Windy Ridge / Spirit Lake Viewpoints where you’ll encounter the lateral blast’s full impact as you transition from green forest to standing dead forest to blown down forest. Discover Spirit Lake’s immense floating forest.

Park and Visitor Center Hours
A good place to begin your visit is at one of the Monument’s visitor centers or information stations. Interpretive staff are available to answer your questions and help you plan your visit. Ask about the schedule of interpretive walks, talks and theater presentations that share the geologic, biologic, and cultural history of the area. Interpretive talks, walks, and theater programs are offered at each site. You can now travel on the east, south and west sides of the mountain. All visitor centers are open daily during the summer months.
On the west side of the mountain, State Road 504 allows access to five Visitor Centers. These reveal tremendous views of Mount St. Helens, including the crater, lava dome, and blast zone. The Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument Visitor Center at Silver Lake is located at mile post 5 on highway 504. It is operated by the Washington State Parks and Recreation Commission. This visitor center shows the eruption on May 18, 1980, and talks about volcanoes in general. It also includes a walk through a volcano model, two theater programs, 1-mile boardwalk wetlands nature trail, and a book store. The hours are 9:00am to 6:00pm June 15 through September 1, and 9:00am to 4:00pm in the winter. It is closed New Years, Thanksgiving and Christmas Day. The County owned Visitor Center at Hoffstadt Bluffs is located at milepost 27. This visitor center has a unique gift shop offering merchandise hand crafted from Mount St. Helens ash and a variety of other unique items from around the area. The Forest Learning Center, located at milepost 33.5, is operated by Weyerhaeuser in conjunction with the Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation. This Visitor Center leads you through the steps that were taken to salvage the downed lumber and reforest the area. It is possible to take a look through telescopes mounted at the top of their interpretive trail and have the chance to see any elk that may be in the vicinity.

The Coldwater Ridge Visitor Center is located at milepost 43 at an elevation of 3,091 feet / 942 meters. Winter Hours: Thursday through Monday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. (closed Tuesday and Wednesday). This Visitor Center is operated by the Forest Service and is used as an educational guide showing how changes come about after an eruption. Services inside the center include a video-wall theater program, interpretive exhibits, a staffed information desk, a gift shop, and a Northwest Interpretive Association book sales area. There is a short trail, “Winds of Change” that is self-guided and shows what happened on May 18, 1980.

Johnston Ridge Visitor Center opened in May, 1997. Located at the end of State Highway 504 and 52 miles east of Castle Rock, in the heart of the blast zone, the Center’s state-of-the-art interpretive displays magically portray the sequence of geologic events that transformed the landscape and opened up a new era in the science of monitoring an active volcano and forecasting eruptions. Read amazing eyewitness accounts from eruption survivors. This is the closest Visitor Center to Mount St. Helens and you can look into the Crater and see the dome. Take a .5 mile walk on the Eruption Trail and learn how the eruption shaped the surrounding landscape. Visitors can expect to see views of the lava dome, crater, pumice plain, and the landslide deposit. Forest Interpreters share the magic of the geological events surrounding the 1980 eruption through a variety of formal talks and guided walks. Experience how volcanoes are monitored and discover how Mount St. Helens has taught us new answers to old mysteries.

On the East Side, Forest Roads 25 and 99 provide access to the vast blown down forest and views of the legendary Spirit Lake, and are usually open from Memorial Day until snow blocks the roads. Cowlitz Valley Ranger Station is open to visitors daily during the summer season. On Forest Road 99 interpretive talks and walks bring the landscape to life for visitors and can be enjoyed at the numerous view points. Food services and gifts are available at Cascades Peaks Viewpoint.

The South Side Forest Road 83 passes through lava flows and mudflows from earlier eruptions and provides access to the Climber’s Bivouac. Pine Creek Information Station is open for visitor inquiries. State Highway 503 is open year round, while Forest Roads 83 and 90 are usually open from Memorial Day until snow blocks roads. Guided lantern walks are conducted daily at Ape Cave.

History & Statistics
In 1982 the President and Congress created the 110,000-acre National Volcanic Monument for research, recreation, and education. The Monument is dedicated to the protection of the unique natural features created by the 1980 eruption for the benefit of future generations. This monument is actually maintained by the National Forest Service and is part of the Gifford Pinchot National Forest.
Within a few moments of the explosion in 1980, the slab of rock and ice slammed into Spirit Lake, crossed a ridge 1,300 feet high, and roared 14 miles down the Toutle River. The avalanche rapidly released pressurized gases within the volcano. A tremendous lateral explosion ripped through the avalanche and developed into a turbulent, stone-filled wind that swept over ridges and toppled trees. Wet, cement-like slurries of rock and mud scoured all sides of the volcano. Searing flows of pumice poured from the crater. A vast, gray landscape lay where once the forested slopes of Mount St. Helens grew.

After the May 18, 1980 eruption, thick pasty lava crept onto the crater floor, building a lava dome. Pressure from steam and volcanic gas caused this dome to explode, sending hot rocks across the crater floor. Over the next six years, this cycle of dome building eruptions and destructive explosions occurred several times. When the last dome building eruption ended in October of 1986, the dome was 900-feet tall and 3000-feet wide.

In late September 2004, after 18 years of relative quiet, hundreds of earthquakes signaled Mount St. Helens’ reawakening. Activity increased, producing the first steam eruption on October 1st. Thousands of people flocked to the volcano hoping to witness geologic history. Over the next ten days larger steam explosions showered the crater and flanks with ash, and a portion of the crater glacier began to swell, as magma moved under the crater’s ice and snow.

By October 11th, the first small fin of new lava broke the surface. The thick, pasty lava formed a lava dome, a common feature of Cascade Volcanoes. The new dome grew at a steady pace, about a dump truck load every second through December. By February of 2005, the pace of the lava extrusion had slowed, but the new dome was already over 1450 feet high and 1600 feet long.

Inside the Monument, the environment is left to respond naturally to the disturbance. Lessons learned by scientists have improved our understanding of volcanic processes, extended our ability to forecast future eruptions, and provided insight into how ecosystems respond to catastrophic disturbances. Each year thousands of students visit Mount St. Helens and are enriched by discoveries from research.

Natural Features
Mount St. Helens is an active volcano in southwest Washington. By October 11, 1980 the first small fin of new lava broke the surface. The thick, pasty lava formed a lava dome, a common feature of Cascade Volcanoes. The new dome grew at a steady pace, about a dump truck load every second through December. By February of 2005, the pace of the lava extrusion had slowed, but the new dome was already over 1450 feet high and 1600 feet long.
Today, the crater and lava dome are often cloaked in a haze of dust resulting from rocks falling from the crater walls and occasional wisps of steam from the lava dome. This still retains a considerable amount of heat and due to erosion has developed deep gullies in the crater floor. These in turn get filled with water and become thermal springs and a special habitat for bacteria and other microbial life. The United States Geological Survey scientists continue to monitor the volcano for earthquakes, swelling, microbial life and gas emissions. Those who do so face dangers from possible pathogenic bacteria to almost constant rock fall from unstable walls.

In the crater, much more snow falls each winter than melts during the summer. The almost perfect north facing amphitheater, formed by the crater walls, shades this snow. Rocks that tumble to the crater floor insulate this growing mass of snow and ice. Time and pressure from over-lying snow slowly change this snow to ice. Since 1982, scientists estimate that the thickness of the ice mass has increased by nearly 50 feet each year. Surface cracks suggest that the ice mass is beginning to move. As the size of the ice mass increases it may begin to erode the lava dome it surrounds. Today, the snow and ice in the crater is equal in volume to all of the pre-eruption glaciers on Mount St. Helens combined. Geologists are carefully monitoring the growth of North America’s youngest glacier because rapid melting by a future eruption could produce a massive mudflow and potentially threaten downstream areas.

Prior to the eruption Spirit Lake and other lakes were typical cold, clear mountain lakes (low nutrients, productivity and temperature with high clarity). The removal and virtual vaporization of forest vegetation by the blast caused great changes in the physical and chemical structure of lakes within the blast zone. Tremendous quantities of useable ammonium, carbon and other energy sources (sulfur, iron and manganese) were leached into the lakes as rainwater percolated through the shattered forest and ash deposits.

Lakes such as Spirit, Coldwater and Castle Lakes that were closer to the volcano were much more heavily impacted. The levels of organic and inorganic nutrients that leached into the lakes were much higher where deposits were thicker and blast intensities (shredding and scorching of forest vegetation) were greater. The water in Spirit Lake was completely displaced by the avalanche and heated to body temperature (a 200 foot (60 m) wave washed against the ridges to the north).

Coldwater and Castle Lakes are two examples of lakes that were created as rainwater was impounded inside drainages by the debris avalanche deposit. Meta Lake is an example of a high elevation lake where fish survived the eruption first under ice cover and then in a lens of fresh water that persisted on the surface following the spring thaw. Ryan Lake is one of many lakes not covered with ice where fish perished as microbial activity tied up the available oxygen in the excessively nutrient rich waters that developed in the months following the eruption.

Widespread oxygen depletion occurred as bacterial populations responded to increased nutrient levels. Within the first year after the eruption the biological system was transformed from oxygen based system to one dominated by anaerobic heterotrophs (methanogens that obtain their energy from either hydrogen or acetate). Anoxic conditions persisted for a relatively short period of time. Within five years after the eruption the lakes had mostly returned to normal as wind and seasonal turnover stirred oxygen into the water column and available nutrients were depleted as dead microbes and fine sediments settled to the bottom of the lakes.

Even though the Monument Act specifically allows opportunities for recreational fishing, it was determined that representative lakes within the blast zone (including Spirit Lake) would be set aside for scientific research and would not be stocked with fish. “These recommendations recognize the value of managing for a recreational fishery on some lakes, while allowing others to remain undisturbed so that natural recovery processes may continue unimpeded with the option for research studies (Page 41, Monument Fish and Wildlife Plan, 1989).” The Washington State Wildlife Commission has closed Spirit Lake to fishing consistent with the Monument’s Fish and Wildlife Plan. The Commission recognizes the importance of Spirit Lake and its surroundings as a unique natural laboratory for research and for the enjoyment of future generations. This will allow future Monument visitors to witness the natural recovery process unimpeded by human activity.

The Spirit Lake basin and valley of North Fork of the Toutle River west to Monument boundary (Class I Research Area) is closed to public access, except on developed trails. At this time, the only trail access to Spirit Lake is to the northeastern shore of the lake via the Harmony Falls Trail located off Forest Road 99. Spirit Lake is listed as closed for fishing in the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife regulation pamphlet. Monument policy clearly indicates that access to the Spirit Lake basin (and rest of the Class I Research Area) will be on developed trails only. This will help protect opportunities for long-term research and allow our future visitors to have the opportunity to observe nature’s own recovery processes at work in Spirit Lake.

Flora
Some plants and animals did survive the eruption. Plants such as willow, vine maple and black cottonwood were able to re-sprout from roots protected in moist soil. Not all plants and animals that survived the blast were able to survive the harsh conditions that followed, but those that did helped to pave the way for new colonizers. Ponds and springs created by the eruption became the centers of life for survivors and colonizers. Many areas around the volcano still have a desert-like appearance, but the vast majority of plant and animal species that were found at Mount St. Helens prior to the 1980 eruption have returned.
Probably the biggest single factor aiding forest recovery on managed lands has been tree planting. The Forest Service salvaged 200 million board feet of blown down and standing dead timber from 10,000 acres. To date nearly 10 million trees have been planted to reforest more than 14,000 acres of National Forest land. The survival of planted trees has been very good because forest managers used the best planting techniques and planting stock available. Survival of planted trees has generally exceeded 70 percent. Trees planted 10 miles northeast of the volcano in the Clearwater valley are growing well and many plantations are ready for pre-commercial thinning.

Activities in the Park
Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument has nearly 200 miles of trails where hikers can experience features of the 1980 eruption. Most of these trails can be accessed without a permit. Popular backpacking trails in the Monument include: Boundary Trail #1 east of Norway Pass, Loowit Trail #216 which circles the volcano, Green River Trail #213, and the Goat Mountain Trail #217 which traverse high lakes and old growth forest north of the 1980 blast area. Trails vary in difficulty from short, accessible interpretive loops to longer, steep narrow trails that challenge even experienced hikers. Consult with Monument staff to pick the trails that best meet your needs.

Climbing Mount St. Helens is popular with both experienced and beginning mountaineers. Late spring through early fall is the most popular season. The climb is not a trail hike; it is a rugged, off-trail scramble. The climb is suitable for people in good physical condition who are comfortable on steep irregular terrain. Most climbers use the Monitor Ridge route from Climbers Bivouac. The route climbs 4,500 feet from trailhead to the rim in a distance of about 5 miles. Most mountain climbers complete the round trip in 7 to 12 hours. A climbing permit is required year-round to climb above 4,800 feet elevation. Although people climb Mount St. Helens year-round, late spring through early fall is the most popular season. Entry into the crater is strictly prohibited.

Climbing is permitted during the winter season (November 1 through May 14). A permit is required, and must be purchased at Jack’s Restaurant Climbers Register, 23 miles cast of I-5, on State Hwy. 503 (Woodland exit 21). There is no charge for climbing November 1 – March 31. The most direct winter climbing route is from Marble Mountain Sno-Park via the Swift Creek Ski Trail, up the Worm Flows to the top of Monitor Ridge, and on to the summit. Winter mountaineers should be experienced in winter climbing techniques and avalanche terrain travel, and should exercise caution during any ascent. Take special care at the crater rim, where cornices can extend 100 feet over the edge.

Camping in the Mount Margaret Backcountry is only one of the many ways to explore Mount St. Helens backcountry. Mount St. Helens has nearly 200 miles of hiking trails where hikers can experience features of the 1980 eruption. Most of these trails can be accessed without a permit. Some circle the volcano, while others traverse high lakes and old growth forest north of the 1980 blast area. Trails vary in difficulty from short, accessible interpretive loops to longer, steep narrow trails that challenge even experienced hikers. Consult with Monument staff to pick the trails that best meet your needs.

You can travel more than 1,200 miles of trail of varying difficulty in the national forest. Some low-elevation trails, which open in the spring, have displays of early wildflowers. However, most trails are located in upper-elevation forest and alpine areas, which may be snow covered until July. Nearly 300 miles of trail are located within the Wildernesses. Approximately 150 miles of trails are constructed to barrier-free standards with several levels of difficulty. Approximately 150 miles of the Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail traverses the Forest through spectacular, scenic high country, including the Indian Heaven, Mt. Adams, and Goat Rock Wildernesses.

Hikers may explore trails that lead to the sapphire lakes, pinnacle studded ridges and flowered mountain slopes of the Mount Margaret Backcountry. Visitors to this rugged and spectacular portion of the Monument can also see effects of the 1980 eruption of Mount St. Helens. The lateral blast, a hot stone filled wind, shattered trees and swirled around peaks and basins as it toppled thousands of acres of pristine forest. Margaret, Bear and Dome camps have views of Mount St. Helens and the growing lava dome.�
West side trails offer close-up views of the crater, newly formed lakes and the barren pumice plain. Hike on the landslide deposit and discover how water has created new habitats. Drinking water is located at Coldwater Lake and the Visitor Centers. East, beyond the reach of the volcano’s power, old-growth forests and lush vegetation offer a sharp contrast to the gray in the blast area. Trails along Forest Road 99 lead hikers into the heart of the blast area and provide outstanding views of Spirit Lake. Water pumps are located at Norway Pass Trailhead on Forest Road 26 and the Meta Lake Trailhead on Forest Road 99. South side trails offer outstanding opportunities to learn about ancient lava flows and recent mudflows that scoured down the slopes of Mount St. Helens. Discover the longest continuous lava tube in the continental U.S. formed more than 1,900 years ago. There are no water pumps on this side of the Monument. Popular backpacking trails in the Monument include: Boundary Trail #1 east of Norway Pass, Loowit Trail #216 which circles the volcano, Green River Trail #213 and the Goat Mountain Trail #217 which traverse high lakes and old growth forest north of the 1980 blast area.

Mount Margaret Backcountry is located in the 1980 blast area about 7 miles north of Mount St. Helens. Visitors to Mount Margaret Backcountry should be aware that ash fall from Mount St. Helens remains a possibility. Growth of the new lava dome inside the crater of Mount St. Helens continues. As long as this eruption is in progress, episodic changes in the level of activity can occur over days, weeks, or even months. Increase in the intensity of eruption could occur suddenly or with very little warning and may include explosive events that produce hazardous conditions within several miles of the volcano.

Discover the inside of an ancient lava flow at Ape Cave. Allow an hour to explore the lower section and two and a half hours to hike the more difficult upper portion of the cave. Between late June and Labor Day services available include ranger-led tours, lantern rentals, and a small book store. A Recreation Day Pass is required and available there.

On May 18, 1980, slurries of wet concrete-like mud scoured away the forest, exposing an ancient lava flow at Lava Canyon & Lahar. Today, enjoy the thrill of a rushing river with impressive waterfalls. Walking terrain varies and may be slippery. Take extra caution and stay on the trail! A Recreation Day Pass is required and available here. Nearby Lahar Viewpoint offers a striking view of the mountain and the power of the mudflows.

At Windy Ridge / Spirit Lake Viewpoints you will encounter the lateral blast’s full impact as you transition from green forest to standing dead forest to blown down forest. Discover Spirit Lake’s immense floating forest. It is open seasonally. Opportunities include ranger-led programs, hiking trails, gift shop, and a restaurant. A Recreation Day Pass is required and available at various sites along Forest Roads 90 and 99.

Snow trails in the Mount St. Helens Winter Recreation Area are available for snowmobiling, skiing, or snowshoeing. The use of wheeled vehicles (including motorcycles and ATV’S) on these routes is strictly prohibited. Roads outside the winter recreation area are generally open for use by wheeled vehicles. 36 CFR 261 prohibits mechanized and motorized equipment in wilderness areas. This means snowmobiles are not allowed in wilderness areas. Cross-country skiing is allowed. Please note that some of the groomed snowmobile trails run parallel with the Wilderness boundaries. Keep snowmobiles outside Wilderness areas.

During the winter recreation season, from mid-November through April the Sno-Parks are open for sledding and winter family fun. A Washington or Oregon State Sno-Park permit is required for parking at either the Cougar or Marble Mountain Sno-Parks.

The Gifford Pinchot National Forest has more than 20 species of fish in 1,360 miles of streams and over 100 lakes. Three species of anadromous fish (chinook and coho salmon, and steelhead trout) and several species of resident salmonids (rainbow trout, kokanee salmon, brown trout, and cutthroat trout), including two species of char (bull trout and eastern brook trout); can be found within Forest waters. More than 90 percent of the streams on the Forest have a self-sustaining resident fishery. Fish populations are supplemented with hatchery fish in some forest lakes and streams. High mountain lakes may not be accessible until the late-spring snow melts. Excellent opportunities for both bait and fly fishing abound. There are high mountain lakes north of Mount St. Helens that are among a number of lakes in the volcanic blast zone that are readily accessible by road or trail and are available for recreational fishing. The Lakes Trail has several lakes that support Eastern Brook Trout. Anglers must follow state regulations.

There are some outstanding waterfall-viewing opportunities on the Gifford Pinchot National Forest. Big Creek is located in Upper Lewis River. There is a 500 foot Barrier-free trail leading to the viewpoint. The trail continues for one mile, passing another waterfall, to a viewpoint over looking the Lewis River Valley. The waterfall drops approximately 125 feet into pool. Davis Creek is located at Upper Cowlitz. The waterfall drops about 100 feet while the creek runs under the road. Dry Creek or Puff Falls lies in the Wind River Valley and has a 120 foot waterfall. Falls Creek in the same valley ahs a series of three falls dropping about 200 to 250 feet. There are several others worth checking into at the visitor centers for their locations.

Gifford Pinchot National Forest Wilderness Areas offer 180,600 acres of wilderness. Wilderness provides more than an opportunity to find solitude and natural beauty. The wilderness environment is an important habitat for many species of animal and plant life. Its forests act as a watershed storing rain and snow for gradual release to streams and rivers. Wilderness provides the environment for scientists to study the dynamics of natural ecological relationships. Wilderness management must recognize and protect these many benefits. The Forest Service gathers information from Wilderness visitors to monitor Wilderness use, set trail maintenance priorities, and plan work for Wilderness rangers. Much of this information comes from Wilderness permits, which are now required for entry in the Goat Rocks Wilderness. Permits are self-issued, free and are available at all Wilderness Trailheads.

Along with horseback riding, hiking, or climbing, people may hunt, fish, or trap. A small number of outfitting and guiding services operate under special use permits. The 105,600-acre Goat Rocks Wilderness is located on the northern portion of the Forest. It is a rugged beautiful land of flinty pinnacles, icy snowfields and glaciers, surrounded by flower-carpeted meadows. Elevations range from 3,000 to 8,200 feet. The Wilderness derives its name from the mountain goats that inhabit its peaks. Along the west slope of Mt. Adams lays the 47,270-acre Mt. Adams Wilderness. The 12,276-foot high Mt. Adams is the second highest peak in the Northwest after Mt. Rainier. Mt. Adams Wilderness is bounded on the east by the Yakima Indian Reservation. Wilderness trails offer the traveler spectacular views of Mt. Adams and its glaciers, tumbling streams, open alpine forests, and wildflowers scattered among lava flows and rimrocks. Since the eruption of Mount St. Helens, Mt. Adams has become a popular attraction for mountain climbers.

Canoeing, kayaking, rafting, and other forms of boating can be found here. However, gas powered motors are prohibited on most Forest lakes. Swimming may be limited to hardy persons who can endure the cold water of mountain lakes.

Environmental Impact
Probably the biggest single factor aiding forest recovery on managed lands has been tree planting. The Forest Service salvaged 200 million board feet of blown down and standing dead timber from 10,000 acres. To date nearly 10 million trees have been planted to reforest more than 14,000 acres of National Forest land. The survival of planted trees has been very good because forest managers used the best planting techniques and planting stock available. Survival of planted trees has generally exceeded 70 percent.
Erosion played a very important positive role in the recovery of native plants at Mount St. Helens and, ultimately, the long-term stabilization of blast zone hill slopes. From the standpoint of ecosystem recovery at St. Helens, erosion should be viewed as a positive process. The erosion that occurred during the first winter broke up the overlying ash and enabled many native plants to re-sprout and survive. In many areas where thick ash deposits prevented re-sprouting plant recovery was restricted to erosion gullies on steep slopes. These early plant survivors provided a good seedbed (shade and litter) and thus paved the way for the recovery of plant life in the blast zone.

The positive influence of erosion on vegetation recovery is a key lesson learned for managers of Cascade Volcanoes. Where eruptions bury existing vegetation and ash deposits are comparatively thin (less than 10 inches) it is very likely that the surviving native vegetation will be the most dominant force in stabilizing the hill slopes. In these cases it is unlikely that introduction of non-native grass species will be a cost effective means of revegetation.

Weather
Wind, rain, fog and even snow can form quickly any time of the year. The temperature at the rim of Mt. St. Helens can be 20 to 30 degrees colder than that of the surrounding valleys. Be prepared with proper layered clothing.

Rules, Regulations and Safety
Hypothermia literally means low (hypo) temperature (thermia). Our “normal” body temperature is around 98.6°F (37°C) and it can only operate in a very narrow temperature range. In order to stay within this narrow temperature range we need to either generate or conserve our body heat. We can generate heat by increasing our metabolism by becoming active (hiking faster, doing jumping jacks, etc). To conserve this additional heat we may cross our arms or simply add more clothing. At some point in a hypothermic victim their body’s ability to generate and conserve heat is overcome by the amount of heat loss. Hypothermia occurs most commonly when the air temperature is between 30-50°F (-1-10°C). Don’t wait until winter to think about hypothermia. In the outdoors we should be concerned about hypothermia all year round. Wet clothes lose about 90% of their insulating value. Make sure your rain gear works. Wind carries heat away by driving cold air through clothing. Wear a wind breaker and protect your skin. Exercise drains your energy reserves. Stop and rest frequently while you still have energy and eat frequently to replace energy expended.
Symptoms include uncontrollable fits of shivering, vague, slow, slurred speech, memory lapses, incoherence, fumbling hands, stumbling, drowsiness, apparent exhaustion, and inability to get up after a rest. To avoid these stay dry, dress in warm layers when you are going to be out in the elements, avoid exposure, be aware of the wind chill factor, drink plenty of fluids and eat high energy foods frequently. If symptoms begin, get out of the elements and into dry clothing. When possible build a fire and get warm. Drink warm fluids and dive into a warm sleeping bag. Attempt to warm the victim by providing heat to the chest area. Do not attempt to warm the extremities first. Keep the person severely affected, awake. Never ignore the symptoms of hypothermia.

At 10,000 feet, air contains only two-thirds the oxygen it has at sea level. In addition, the higher air pressure at sea level easily forces the available oxygen through the thin lining of the lungs into the bloodstream. At high elevations, there is less air pressure and the available oxygen is not so easily forced through the lung walls. This can result in altitude sickness. The symptoms are listlessness, loss of appetite, weakness, apathy, nausea, dizziness and drowsiness. Stop and rest, breathe deeply a few times, and obtain nourishment from simple sugars such as candy or fruit juices. Travel to a lower elevation. By keeping in good physical condition and eating a well-balanced diet, you can help prevent this. Avoid sudden trips to high altitudes requiring immediate physical exercise and drink plenty of water. This can also help in hyperventilation, an increase in rate of breathing causing a lowering of carbon dioxide in the blood. This makes you feel lightheaded, cold, apprehensive and excited. Smokers and anyone using depressant drugs are more apt to suffer from altitude difficulties.

Camping, hiking, or climbing in the higher elevations can be challenging. Portions of trails are often covered by snow until midsummer. Be prepared to cross snow slopes if you plan an early season visit. Trails in the Mount Margaret Backcountry have narrow tread, are steep in places and can climb over 2,000 feet in elevation. Some trails are very challenging. The Whittier Trail #214, in particular, is very narrow and crosses steep cliffs; it is not suitable for hikers that are uncomfortable with heights. Stay on the trail; off-trail travel is prohibited with a $100.00 minimum fine. Bicycles are prohibited. When fire danger is high, trails and access in some areas may be closed. Rolling rocks are a hazard in certain areas, particularly during the latter part of the summer. Heed the first signs of weather changes, darkness, loss of route, and fatigue while you can still place yourself in a protected and secure position. Always maintain visual contact with the person in front of you and the person behind you. Protect your eyes from snow blindness and your body from sunburn.

Follow the camp rules and be sure to use the “leave no trace” policy and leave nothing behind. Stay on trails and paved areas. Do not remove or disturb any natural feature. Do not feed wild animals. Please do not litter, pack out your trash. What you carry in, please carry out. Take food in easily compressed packages, such as foil, that requires little space in your gear. Avoid leaving human waste near any water source. If you are in a group, avoid concentrating wastes. Nature can assimilate only small quantities at a time. Bury solid waste 6 inches underground. Shortcutting trail switchbacks are prohibited. Camping within 100 feet of lakes or the Pacific Crest Trail is prohibited. Grazing, hitching, or tethering of stock within 200 feet of lakes is prohibited. Livestock feed must be weed-free certified hay or processed feed. Help keep weeds out of Wilderness. You may cache or store equipment, personal property or supplies for 48 hours or less. Treat all water or bring it from home.

All hikers are responsible for their own safety. Let someone know your destination and your return time. It is best to never hike alone. A good backpacking checklist is: topographical map, compass, GPS unit, flashlight or headlamp with spare bulbs and batteries, extra food and water, water purification system, collapsible water container, 1-2 quart water bottle, gaiters, gloves, extra clothing including rain gear, sunglasses and sunscreen, a First aid kit, signal mirror or whistle, an ice axe for climbing on snow, and the usual camping equipment for the weather-sleeping bags and mats, sturdy tents, good hiking boots, backpack, pocket knife, matches wrapped in a waterproof container, fire starter, camp stove and fuel. Additional climbing gear could be crampons, rope, route markers, climbing boots and human waste pack-out bags to remove solid wastes.

To protect research opportunities and natural features, some portions of the Mount Margaret Backcountry are closed to public entry. Closed areas include the Boot Lake basin, St. Helens Lake, all areas south of the Boundary Trail #1 and a few other areas where research activity is taking place. Camping is prohibited at Grizzly, Venus and Lower Venus Lakes as well as areas within the blast area which are not designated for camping.

A restricted area has been established in the heart of the National Volcanic Monument to protect opportunities for scientific research and allow for the recovery of plant and animal life. The following rules apply in the restricted area: Stay on the trail; off-trail travel prohibited. No camping is allowed in the restricted area. Disturbing research plots or removal of any natural feature is strictly prohibited. Access into the crater is strictly prohibited. Fires are not allowed within the blast area. Stoves are allowed within the blast area. Pets and bicycles are prohibited. For more detailed information and maps, contact one of the Visitor Centers or a Forest Ranger District Office.

Yakama Indian Reservation is closed to public use. The boundary between the Gifford Pinchot National Forest and the Reservation in the Midway-Meadows area is a north-south line over the summit of Potato Hill. Trespassers will be cited.

Wilderness Regulation Permits are required to enter the following Wilderness areas on the Gifford Pinchot National Forest: Indian Heaven, Mt. Adams, Goat Rocks, William O. Douglas, Trapper Creek, Tatoosh, and Glacier View. (This includes the portion of the Goat Rocks and William O. Douglas Wildernesses on the Wenatchee National Forest.) Permits are used to collect accurate visitor information. There is no charge for these permits. The self-issuing permits are mandatory and are available at all trailheads leading into these Wildernesses, and (to take to the trailhead) at the Packwood and Naches Ranger Stations. No motorized or wheeled conveyances are allowed in any Wilderness. Copies of Wilderness Regulations are available at all Ranger Stations. Mechanized and motorized vehicles are not permitted in Wilderness areas. This includes snowmobiles in the wintertime and bicycles anytime. Violators will be prosecuted.

Climbing Permits are required year-round. Each person must display their permit during their climb. Climbing is limited to 100 climbers a day from May 15 through October 31. Maximum party size is 12 people. Climber registration is required. The Climbers Register is located outside Jack’s Restaurant and Store. Any commercial use, including paid guiding is prohibited, unless authorized by a Special Use Permit. Contact Monument Headquarters at 360-449-7800 for more information. All climbers should carry extra clothing and rain wear, sun protection for eyes and skin, extra food and water, sturdy boots, gaiters, gloves, topographical map and a first aid kit.

Pets are prohibited at many Monument sites and trails, especially in some of the most sensitive landscapes. Along State Highway 504, pets are restricted to the pet areas at the Coldwater Ridge Visitor Center, Coldwater Lake Recreation Area, and Johnson Ridge Observatory. Pets must be on a leash six feet or less in length at all times. For the sake of your pet, consider leaving it at home. There are areas in the Monument where you can hike and camp with your pet. Contact Monument Headquarters or the Visitor Centers more information.

If you remove anything from federal land, you must have a “special forest products” permit. If you are removing a product for personal use, you must get a “personal use” permit. If you are pursuing a commercial venture, you must obtain a “commercial use” permit. Please check with the District Office nearest you, to obtain a complete list of “special forest products” and for information on where to obtain the permit you need.

The Ape Cave tour has uneven terrain and a temperature of 42*F/6*C year round. Bring warm clothes, sturdy shoes, and two light sources per person.

Mount St. Helen is still an active volcano. If you encounter ash fall remain calm, cover your nose and mouth with a moist cloth, and wait until the ash settles before resuming travel. There are periodic closures of the mountain or camping areas due to volcanic activity. Be sure to check with the park before you arrive.

Trails in the Mount Margaret Backcountry are narrow, rugged and many climb over 2,000 feet. Some trails and camps will remain snow covered until early July. Pets, livestock and campfires are prohibited and camping is limited to designated sites only. Campsites are located at Snow, Shovel, Panhandle and Obscurity Lakes as well as near Mount Margaret, Bear Pass, The Dome and the intersection of Coldwater trail #230 and South Coldwater Trail #230A. Margaret, Bear and Dome camps have views of Mount St. Helens and the growing lava dome.

Wildlife
Some plants and animals did survive the eruption. Pocket gophers in underground burrows, fish in ice covered lakes and salamanders hibernating in mud were protected from the hot, stone-filled wind of the lateral blast. Not all plants and animals that survived the blast were able to survive the harsh conditions that followed, but those that did helped to pave the way for new colonizers. Winds brought light seeds and insects to the area. Plants and insects attracted birds, deer and elk. Heavier seeds rode in on the feathers of birds and in elk droppings. Ponds and springs created by the eruption became the centers of life for survivors and colonizers. Many areas around the volcano still have a desert-like appearance, but the vast majority of plant and animal species that were found at Mount St. Helens prior to the 1980 eruption have returned.
Of the 32 species of small mammals thought to be living near Mount St. Helens only 14 were known to have survived. The eruption adversely affected small mammals either directly through immediate injury or death or indirectly by reducing the availability of food, water or hiding cover. Small mammals that live beneath the soil surface such as the already mentioned, northern pocket gopher (Thomomys talpoides) or hibernators such as the Pacific jumping mouse (Zappus trinotatus) survived where other surface dwelling or non-hibernating animals perished. Species that have returned to the blast zone tend to be generalists having few specific habitat requirements and a broad food base (deer mouse, Peromyscus maniculatus and golden-mantled ground squirrel, Spermophilus saturatus). Species with narrower requirements will probably not return until forest vegetation recovers and food and hiding cover are abundant.

Large mammals did not survive but animals from adjacent, less-disturbed areas were able to move into the blast zone soon after the eruption. These animals found prime habitat due to the availability of high quality summer forage from surviving plants and winter forage from grass and clover planted to control erosion on the debris avalanche deposit west of the Monument.

The availability of winter forage contributed greatly to the recovery of the elk population. Some, like the Roosevelt elk have returned in numbers that far exceed pre-1980 populations. It is not unusual to see large herds of bull elk running together on the debris avalanche or in the blast zone north of the volcano. Elk viewing is a very popular activity among Monument visitors. The Columbia black-tailed deer also found prime habitat due to the availability of high quality summer forage from surviving plants and winter forage from grass and clover planted to control erosion on the debris avalanche deposit west of the Monument. The winter of ’98 buried the available forage for elk and deer beneath a record snow pack (more than three times normal). More than 200 elk starved to death in the snow-covered blast zone as winter snow blocked their access to forage in a late spring. The record snow pack of ‘98 had placed an additional stress on a population that had already begun to run up against the limits of the available food supply during the winter season. The reduction in forage was due in part to the growth of forest plantations on private lands adjacent to the Monument. As the branches of adjacent plantation trees have grown together the availability of sunlight for the growth of forage between the plantation trees has been greatly reduced. What turned out to be a very stressful winter for elk at the volcano turned into a boon for scavengers and predators. Animals like coyote, bear and even wolverines were sighted in places in the blast zone where they had never been seen before.

Bird survival was restricted to areas on the margins of the blast zone where ash fall was the only disturbance. Recolonization of the blast zone occurred very quickly (hours, days, weeks) due to the tremendous dispersing capability of birds. Ten years after the eruptions, few species are present in the pyroclastic flow, debris avalanche and tree blow-down zones where vegetation recovery has been relatively slow. The common raven (Corvus corax), mountain bluebird (Sialia currucoides) and white-crowned sparrow (Zonotrichia leucophrys) are examples of species that have returned to the most heavily disturbed areas. The standing dead forests harbor species such as the American robin (Turdus migratorius), hairy woodpecker (Picoides villosus) and red-breasted nuthatch (Sitta canadensis) but lack many of the foliage loving species found in undisturbed forests. Ash fall areas support bird life similar to adjacent, undisturbed forested sites. In time as the blast zone returns to a forested condition we should observe a return of bird life found in adjacent, undisturbed forests.

The first resident invertebrates observed in the blast zone, apart from ant colonies that survived below ground, were ballooning spiders and beetles. Ballooning spiders spin a parachute-like web that enables them to disperse long distances. These animals are scavenging predators that feed upon other insects that are blown into the area. On a summer day the upper air column is filled with flying insects that are swept aloft and carried great distances. Wind blown insects are actually helping to pave the way for the development of future forests at Mount St. Helens. More and more insects are colonizing the blast zone as developing plant life provides a source of food and shelter. Grasshoppers forage among the lupines on the pumice plain. Such insects provide a food source for small mammals and insectivorous birds. As food and shelter become increasingly available animals are colonizing the blast zone in ever increasing numbers.

Many amphibians were inactive at the time of the eruption burrowed in lake or stream bottoms or beneath logs and rocks. Survival was generally greater among the aquatic than terrestrial forms due to the tremendous sheltering capacity of water and moist sediments. Recolonization of newly formed habitats was particularly rapid for highly mobile amphibians (frogs and toads) that can travel considerable distances during cool, wet weather. Research Ecologist Charlie Crisafulli of the US Forest Service, Pacific Northwest Research Station estimates that there are 5,000 western toads living in the Mount St. Helens area. This is particularly impressive given that populations of western toads are declining in other locations in western North America. Crisafulli attributes their relative success to a temporary lapse in populations of their natural predators following the eruption and an abundance of algae, a key food source in open blast pools and lakes.

During the early years following the eruption garter snakes (Thamnophis spp.) and Northern alligator lizards (Elgaria coerulea) were observed only in ashfall areas outside of the blast zone.

Wildlife Warnings
Don’t feed the wildlife. Remember that elk are huge animals and can be unpredictable. Also remember that this is a fragile, recovering area. See the Wildlife Precautions page for further animal safety tips.

Fees
The Monument Pass is a one-day per person pass required at the Coldwater Lake Recreation Area, and Johnston Ridge Observatory and costs $8 for Adult 16 and older, free for 15 and under. Admission to Mount St. Helens Visitor Center at Silver Lake will be $3 for ages 18 and older, $1 for ages 7 to 17, and free for ages 6 and younger.

The Northwest Forest Pass is required at recreation facilities on the Gifford Pinchot National Forest where this fee is charged. Expect to need a Northwest Forest Pass where there are facilities, trails or services that the Forest Service provides to enhance your experience. The Northwest Forest Pass is not valid where other fees are charged, such as at concession-operated campgrounds or day-use sites or at Forest Service-operated campgrounds where a nightly camping fee is charged. The cost is $5 per day or $30 for an annual pass. Passes are available at Forest Service offices, many retail outlets, and by phone (800) 270-7504.

Interagency Annual Pass, Interagency Senior Pass, and the Interagency Access Pass are all honored at all U.S. Forest Service, National Park Service, Bureau of Land Management, Bureau of Reclamation, and US Fish & Wildlife Service sites charging entrance or standard amenity fees.

Camping fees run from free to $5-35 a site depending on the campsite in the Mt. St. Helens area and how many vehicles you have. All campers in the Mount Margaret Backcountry must carry a valid Northwest Forest Pass and camping permit. A backcountry permit, which covers camping, is free of charge, but must be accompanied by a Northwest Forest Pass to be valid. Permit applications will be accepted via mail, FAX and in person at Monument Headquarters. Allow three weeks total for processing when applying by mail or FAX. Call for the fax number.

A $15 per person climbing permit fee plus a $7 service charge is required for a one day climbing permit from April 1 through October 31. the Mount St. Helens Institute starts selling the permits in early February. Climbing permit fees are not refundable.

During the winter recreation season, from mid-November through April, a Washington or Oregon State Sno-Park permit is required for parking at either the Cougar or Marble Mountain Sno-Parks. Check with the forest service as fees vary.

Camping
There are several campgrounds in the Mt. St. Helens area. Two of them are state parks: Sequest State Park on State Hwy 504 and Lewis & Clark State Park on U.S. Hwy 12 (800-452-5687). Four of them are located on State Hwy 503: Cougar, Beaver Bay, Cresap Bay and Swift (503-813-6666). On Forrest Road 23 is Tower Rock (877-444-6777) and on Forest Road 25 is Iron Creek (877-444-6777). Sunset Falls is located on Forest Road 42 (360-449-7800), with Kalama Horse Camp (360-449-7800) and Merill Lake (360-577-2025) located on Forest Road. 81. The last two are to be found on Forest Road 90 and are Lewis River Horse Camp and Lower Falls (360-449-7800). Horse camps are for Horse Camping only April 1 – September 30.
Campgrounds can fill up fast. Making a reservation will guarantee you a camp site. Dispersed camping is permitted outside the Restricted Area. No fires are allowed in the blown down forest of the Monument. Plan to use a camp stove to cook. When fire danger is high, trails and access in some areas may be closed. The campgrounds range from primitive to RV campsites. The season varies with the weather so call the camp you are interested in to see if it is open.

Eight camps are located in Mount Margaret Backcountry and can accommodate tent campers. Each campsite has a level, wooden framed, earth filled tent pad as well as a gray water sump for waste water from washing and cooking. Solar composting toilets are also provided. Water from any source should be treated before drinking. Camping is limited to designated campgrounds only. Maximum group size for camping is four people. To protect natural features, pets and pack stock are prohibited. Also, fires are not allowed, so plan to use a camp stove for cooking. All campsites may be snow covered in early summer, if you plan an early season trip be prepared to camp on snow.

Ridge Camp is located along the Coldwater Trail #230 at an elevation of 3,800 feet. Near the camp there are views of Coldwater Lake, Minnie Peak and Coldwater Creek canyon. In early summer, water is available from a spring 1/4 mile north of the camp. This water source is dry in late summer and autumn. Carry your own water.

Dome Camp, Margaret Camp and Bear Camps are all located along the Boundary Trail #1 at elevations over 5,000 feet. At or near each camp, there are stunning views of the Spirit Lake Basin, Mount St. Helens and the rugged peaks of the Mount Margaret Backcountry. Water is available from small springs north of the Boundary Trail.

Shovel, Snow, Obscurity and Panhandle Camps are all located along the Lakes Trail #211, beside tranquil mountain lakes. These lakes are at elevations between 4,300 feet and 4,700 feet. In early summer, snow is usually present and the surfaces of the lakes may be partially frozen. At these camps, water is available from lakes and streams. These lakes support Eastern Brook Trout.

Nearby Attractions
Mount Rainier National Park, Olympic National Park, Gifford Pinchot National Forest, Snoqualmie National Forest, Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest, Yakama Indian Reservation, Beacon Rock State Park, and Big Cedars County Park are all nearby in Washington. Hares Canyon State Park, Wygant State Park, Smith And Bybee Lakes Wildlife Area, Forest Park and Washington Park are all nearby in Oregon.

Transportation
Mt. St. Helens is a one hour and fifteen minute drive time from Portland, OR, taking I-5, north to State Route 504 east to Castle Rock Exit #49. From Seattle, WA. it is a two hour drive, south on I-5 to State Route 504 east.
Approximate Mileage from the following major cities to Mount St. Helens:

By Car:
Portland, OR – 107.89 miles
Salem, OR – 153.89 miles
Seattle, Wa – 154.49 miles
Bellevue, WA – 157.49 miles
Vancouver, WA – 98.93 miles
Boise, ID – 530.25 miles

Contact the park
Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument, Monument Headquarters, 42218 N.E. Yale Bridge Rd, Amboy, WA 98601
Voice: (360) 449-7800
TTY: 360-891-5003
FAX: 360-449-7801
Mount Margaret Backcountry: 360-449-7871
Climbing Info-Line: 360-449-7861

US Forest Service
http://www.fs.fed.us/gpnf/mshnvm/