Kenai Fjords National Park Information

Kenai Fjords National Park

Kenai Fjords National Park

Southeast coast of Alaska’s Kenai Peninsula

Kenai Fjords National Park is a prime choice for the outdoor adventure seeker. You won’t soon run out of things to do! There’s glaciers, excellent salt and freshwater fishing, ice climbing, wildlife viewing, cross-country skiing, snowmobiling, boat charters, kayaking, backpacking, hiking and camping. Continue reading for great Kenai Fjords National Park information.

Uniqueness

Sweeping from rocky coastline to glacier-crowned peaks, Kenai Fjords National Park encompasses 607,805 acres of unspoiled wilderness. The park is capped by the Harding Icefield, a relic from past ice-ages and the largest icefield entirely within U.S. borders. You will see a landscape continuously shaped by glaciers, earthquakes, and storms. Inland areas that aren’t icebound consist mainly of sheer cliffs, steep gorges and box canyons – often covered by dense vegetation. This challenging wilderness will test the mettle of even the most experienced backcountry traveler. It is not a place for beginners, but several licensed outfitters do offer guided backcountry trips.

There are operators that offer scenic over flights of the park. Flight seeing is one of the best ways to get a sense of the vastness of the Harding Icefield. Soaring over this expanse of ice broken only by isolated mountain peaks, or nunataks, is like traveling back to the Pleistocene. Over flights also provide dramatic views of the Park’s glaciers, fjords and even wildlife. You may catch a glimpse of a mountain goat traversing a rocky ledge, or peer down at a Brown Bear fishing in salmon choked streams.

Orcas, otters, puffins, bear, moose and mountain goats are just a few of the numerous animals that make their home in this ever-changing place where mountains, ice and ocean meet. Winter is one of the best times of year to spot moose at Exit Glacier. One of the unique features of the Kenai Fjords coastline is the “ghost forests” – dead standing trees whose roots were inundated with salt water during the ’64 earthquake. Different nesting birds, like Black Oystercatchers, still use these areas.

Exit Glacier is the only part of the park accessible by road. Here you can stroll the trails, walk right up to an active glacier or take a ranger led walk. It is a place where you can witness up close how glaciers re-shape a landscape and learn how plant life reclaims the barren rocky land exposed by a glacier’s retreat. The Exit Glacier Nature Center has hands-on exhibits and an Alaska Natural History Association book store.

Snowmobiling is allowed in the park once there is at least 18 inches of snow with a solid base. The Harding Icefield has adequate snow cover year round, but the rest of the park is generally open to snowmobile use from November through April. Technical ice climbing is permitted on the glacier’s terminus from November through March. The rest of the year, climbers must be at least ½ mile above the terminus. Ice climbing opportunities are very limited due to unstable ice conditions. The park sponsors a cross-country skiing race the third weekend in January in conjunction with the Annual Polar Bear Jump. Proceeds go to support the local Nordic Ski Club. Tour boats depart Seward’s small boat harbor daily. It’s a good idea to make reservations in advance. In the summer months you can choose from full-day tours that venture out to one of the park’s actively calving glaciers and half-day tours that give you a taste of the park’s wildlife and scenery while staying in the more protected waters of Resurrection Bay. Several companies provide a variety of tour options, schedules and amenities.

The Harding Icefield offers excellent mountaineering possibilities. April is generally the best time of year for crossing the icefield. The days are getting longer and warmer but there is still plenty of snow to ski and pull sleds on the approach and descent. Those lucky enough to have good weather can experience an awesome glimpse back into the ice age, when entire continents were dominated by glaciers. Isolated nunataks jut up from the vast white expanse like dark islands in a smooth sea, begging to be explored. The view from the summit of one of these jagged peaks is indescribably beautiful and eerie.

Exit Glacier Nature Center is open Memorial Day Weekend to Labor Day daily 9am-8:30pm. It is located 9 miles down Exit Glacier Road from turn-off at mile 3 of the Seward Highway. It offers exhibits, an Alaska Natural History Association book store, and information about the glacier and the Harding Icefield, interpretive programs and talks. Seward Information Center is open May 7 – May 26 9am – 5pm daily, May 27 – September 5 8am – 6pm daily, and September 6 – 12 9am – 5pm daily. The center is located on Seward’s small boat harbor and offers videos, maps, publications, exhibits and interpretive programs daily Memorial Day through Labor Day.

Kenai Fjords National Park is a sequestered glacial landscape of ice, tidewater glaciers, deeply chiseled fjords, and jagged peninsulas formed by the forces of the Harding and Grewingk-Yalik icefields as they plunge into the sea. Located on the southeastern or seaward coast of the one hundred and seventy-mile-long Kenai Peninsula, the park abuts the Kenai Mountains to the north and west. These lofty mountains, part of the Chugach and St. Elias ranges, bisect the peninsula close to the southeastern coast and extend to Kodiak and Afognak islands. Only the mountain peaks (nunataks) are visible above the permanent mantle of ice and snow of the icefield. Along the coast, the summits of the same mountain range surface as offshore island stacks. As the glaciers recede the fjords deepen, enlarging and exposing peninsulas that indent the coast and disappear into the sea.

The park is located on an active tectonic shelf of the Pacific Ocean Plate that follows the coast from Port Dick (west of Nuka Bay) to Day Harbor (east of Seward) in one of the most seismically erratic regions of the United States. During the 1964 earthquake lands within the Kenai Fjords National Park subsided. The tremor dropped the coastline from three to six vertical feet in most areas and attempted to counterbalance the force by raising it in others. As the shifting plate moves and grates against the continental landmass, the coast submits to the sea. This process is believed to have begun after the last major period of glaciation, 20,000 years ago.

Glaciers and deep fjords in the southwestern portion of the Kenai Fjords radiate from the colossal snow pack of Harding Icefield. In 1950, the USGS officially named the icefield for President Warren G. Harding who died in 1923, soon after the first presidential visit to Alaska (see chapter 10). Ten of the thirty-four tidewater and hanging glaciers that emanate from Harding Icefield are included within the park.

Kenai Fjords National Park is open year-round; however the Exit Glacier road is closed to cars for the winter months and much of the spring. Snow at higher elevations on the Harding Icefield trail can persist into mid-summer. The weather at Kenai Fjords is difficult to predict and can change rapidly. In general the area enjoys a relatively temperate maritime climate primarily due to the influence of the Japanese current that flows through the Gulf of Alaska. It is always a good idea to check on current conditions before setting out.

Once the Exit Glacier Road is snow covered and closed to cars it is accessible by cross-country skis, snow machine or dog sled. Generally winter recreation starts in early November and the snow can last into May. However this varies greatly from season to season so be sure to check on current conditions before starting out. A warming hut with firewood and benches is available for day use. The Willow Public Use Cabin can be rented by the night, providing visitors with a once in a lifetime winter backcountry experience.

The only maintained trails in Kenai Fjords National Park are those in the Exit Glacier area. These include several short hiking trails on the valley floor and the Harding Icefield trail. From the Exit Glacier parking area an easy half-mile trail takes you to the foot of the Glacier. The first quarter mile is paved and handicap accessible. Once at the glacier, you can wander along the relatively flat outwash plain, or head up the moderately strenuous overlook loop trail along the glacier’s edge. You can return by the same path or take the nature trail back to the parking lot. This slightly longer, more wooded route includes interpretive signs describing the progression from pioneer plants to temperate rainforest that occurs after a glacier recedes. For longer day hiking, don’t miss the Harding Icefield trail. Most of the backcountry is trail-less wilderness. Off-trail hiking is not recommended. The terrain is steep and rugged, and often requires scrambling through dense vegetation. The vast majority of backcountry use involves kayaking and camping along the coastal fjords.

The area surrounding Kenai Fjords National Park has outstanding opportunities for both fresh and salt water fishing. Within the park’s backcountry you can fish coastal streams for salmon and Dolly Varden. The Fjords and Resurrection Bay are hotspots for salmon, halibut, rockfish and lingcod. You can fish right from shore in Seward and opportunities abound for freshwater fishing in the lakes and streams in nearby Chugach National Forest. State Fishing Licenses are required. Fishing charters are available year-round.

Parties wishing to explore the icefield should be well versed in glacier travel and crevasse rescue techniques and should be experienced skiers. However, people can also travel on the icefield with snowshoes. Travelers should rope together whenever moving on the icefield as buried crevasses can be encountered anywhere. The easiest access points are Exit Glacier on the east side and Tustemena or Chernof glaciers on the west. The most popular routes are from Tustemena Glacier to Exit Glacier and from Chernof Glacier (via the Fox River on Kachemak Bay) to Exit Glacier. Exit Glacier is the ideal ‘exit’ since it is the one access point where you don’t have to rely on meeting a boat or a plane. There is no way to predict exactly how long a traverse will take, so it is easier to end the trip where you don’t have to have a pre-arranged pick up date/time. Successful traverses have taken anywhere from six days to two weeks, but many parties have been turned back by the weather. Storms from the Gulf of Alaska can sweep in at any time of year, bringing winds in excess of 100 miles per hour.

It is legal to possess a firearm anywhere in the park in accordance with all other applicable state and federal laws. This is different than the rule in most Lower 48 National Park areas, but is allowed here for protection from bears and other dangerous wildlife. Hunting is strictly prohibited within the park.

Bicycles are allowed anywhere except the decks of the Headquarters building in Seward and the trail system at Exit Glacier. The only road in the park is the Exit Glacier Road, and a bike rack is provided at the trail head for cyclists who want to hike the last ½ mile to the glacial terminus.

Summer daytime temperatures range from the mid 40’s to the low 70’s (Fahrenheit). Overcast and cool rainy days are frequent. It is not unusual to get several long periods of continuous rain in the summer months (lasting days or even weeks at a time). There are sunny days as well. Snow often remains in the higher elevations through June or July.
Since this is a temperate rainforest, be prepared with raingear, layered clothing, and a jacket. But don’t forget your sunglasses and sunscreen either. The sunlight reflected off of the water or the ice can be very intense.

Winter temperatures can range from the low 30’s to -20. Exit Glacier area averages close to 200 inches of snowfall annually, but conditions vary greatly. Storms dumping several feet of snow are common as are rainy mid-winter days with temperatures hovering in the mid-upper 30’s.

The Exit Glacier Trails can still be under heavy snow in the springtime. Any hiking then will need skis or snowshoes. Stay on the packed trails to avoid getting stuck in deep slushy snow.

Whether you’re headed out on a day hike, backpacking trip or even just a scenic drive it’s always a good idea to have emergency supplies with you including extra food and water. Let someone know your plans and who to contact if you don’t check in. Alaska is remote, rugged and unpredictable where anything can happen including bear encounters, falling ice, radical shifts in the weather, earthquakes or avalanches. Have a trip plan. Let them know how long overdue you can be before they should start to worry. Prepare for the unexpected. Ocean storms can sweep through the Kenai Fjords any time of year. Good rain gear and extra food supplies are a must since weather may delay a charter pick-up for days. A properly prepared party can usually wait out bad weather and thus may be a few days overdue with no cause for alarm. Travel with a marine radio to stay informed of upcoming conditions.

When on a tour boat, plan to dress in warm layers that include a wind and waterproof outer shell, a warm hat and gloves or mittens. The best place to enjoy views of wildlife and scenery is out on deck but the winds can be surprisingly cold, even on sunny days.
A broad brimmed rain hat is also recommended as well as sunglasses, sunscreen, camera, film and binoculars. Bring some high-energy bars to keep you warm from the inside if no snacks or meal are provided.

Kenai Fjords rainy, cold and windy weather make hypothermia (or lower than normal body temperature) one of the greatest potential dangers to park visitors. Extreme hypothermia can be life threatening. Many people don’t realize that once they are shivering or have numb fingers and/or toes, they are in the early stages of hypothermia. The best way to deal with hypothermia is to avoid it. Drink plenty of water, even if you’re not thirsty. Avoid alcohol and coffee. Dehydration reduces blood volume and thus limits the body’s ability to produce heat. Eat high calorie foods throughout the day. Wear layered clothing…shed layers when you get warm and add layers when you get cold. The goal is to avoid sweating, which cools the body. Choose wool or synthetic clothing and avoid cotton, which is useless as insulation once it gets wet. Wear a hat because up to 25% of body heat is lost through your head. Stay dry and seek shelter from the wind. Take action at the first sign of hypothermia. The initial signs and symptoms are shivering, skin numbness, difficulty using fingers, sensation of chilliness, lack of coordination, weakness, stumbling, slow pace, and confusion and apathy. If someone in your party shows signs of hypothermia, get them out of the wind and indoors. Take off wet clothes and get them into dry ones. Keep them warm and encourage food and fluids.

Several abandoned mines are scattered throughout the park. Use extreme caution in areas around mine sites. Watch out for sharp rusted pieces of old mining equipment. Abandoned chemicals such as cyanide, arsenic, mercury and other deadly toxins may also be present in leaky and deteriorating containers. Don’t drink the water in areas near mine sites – filtering or treating it will not remove arsenic, mercury or other heavy metals that may be present. Never enter an adit, mine shaft or tunnel! They are extremely unstable and cave-ins and falling debris are a real danger.

For snowmobiling, carry enough food and water for an extended trip, as well as tools and spare parts. A small shovel, snow shoes, and a tow rope or strap can be invaluable when you or someone else is stuck or broken down. Be especially cautious while operating in darkness or low “flat light” conditions. Braided streams create multiple channels which can be difficult to see even under the best conditions. Moose are active throughout the winter. By late winter, they frequent snowmobile trails and often refuse to yield to people. By law, moose in the park are protected from harassment, so pick an alternate route or wait for the moose to move out of your way before proceeding.

Falling ice from glaciers can kill! Stay away from steep walls of ice, overhangs, or areas with visible cracks and or pieces of broken ice lying on the ground. Never enter an ice cave! By definition, a glacier is ‘ice on the move.’ Forward momentum causes ice to crack and rock-hard chunks ranging from softball to Volkswagen size break off without warning. Seeing an active glacier up close is an unforgettable experience, but it is extremely dangerous to be in the wrong place at the wrong time. Do not attempt to climb on the ice unless you have technical climbing skills and proper equipment. It’s more dangerous than it looks!

Anyone attempting to travel on or transverse the icefield must be prepared for the possibility of being pinned down by winds and whiteout for days at a time. Carry a shovel and always build a snow wall around your camp – even if it looks like a beautiful evening. Storms can come up quickly and unexpectedly and high winds can tear up an unprotected tent. Bear resistant food storage canisters are recommended for icefield crossings. You may encounter bears and other wildlife several miles from the icefield’s edge and there are no other viable food storage options. Human waste should be disposed of in a deep crevasse or packed out. Don’t forget these climbing/backpacking checklist essentials: stove and plenty of fuel (enough for cooking and melting snow for drinking water); extra food; extra stove and repair kit; four season expedition quality tent; shovel; foot care products (to combat blisters, etc.); first aid kit; climbing gear for glacial travel and crevasse rescue; snow shoes and/or cross-country skis; signal mirror; maps, compass and GPS for navigation (especially in poor visibility).

Boating and Kayaking Safely
Traveling with a guide is strongly recommended for inexperienced paddlers. The Kenai Fjords are exposed to the Gulf of Alaska, with only a few protected coves. These are not waters for beginners! Waves from calving glaciers or large icebergs can upset your kayak or skiff. Stay at least 1/2 mile away from tidewater glaciers. Even at that distance, falling ice can cause waves. Make sure you’re proficient at self rescue techniques and carry a survival kit including extra warm layers (protected from getting wet), food, water and emergency fire starter to help prevent hypothermia. Be prepared to wait out storms for several days. Better to get home late than to risk paddling through potentially deadly seas. When in doubt, stay on the beach.

Most kayakers access the park by water taxi or charter boat from Seward and get dropped off in Aialik Bay or Northwestern Lagoon. Another alternative is to fly in to the less visited Nuka Bay area from Homer. Paddling directly from Seward is okay for day trips in Resurrection Bay or overnight visits to Caines Head or Bear Glacier but rounding Aialik Cape in a kayak is not recommended. There are long stretches of exposed coastline with no landing sites between Callisto Head and Aialik Cape, and the waters around the Cape can be extremely treacherous. Most of an iceberg is hidden below the waterline. Do not approach them too closely as they regularly shift and roll.

Avoid landing on beaches within two miles of a tidewater glacier as they are subject to sudden and hazardous surf. Tides can affect the navigability of certain waters. The difference between high and low tides in the Kenai Fjords can be as much as 15 feet. Pick up a tide book before heading out. When making camp, be sure to store your gear well above the high tide line and tie off your boat. When choosing a landing/camping site, use clues such as driftwood accumulation, beach steepness and cobble size to judge what the wave action is likely to be in storm conditions. Make sure you will be able to launch from the beach in the morning if the wind or weather changes overnight. Carry a marine radio – cell phone coverage is not available in much of the park. In case of emergency Rangers and/or the Coast Guard can be reached on Marine Channel 16.

Current Weather

In the backcountry you are a visitor. Treat wildlife with respect. Bring binoculars and enjoy viewing animals from a distance. Bear and moose can be extremely dangerous if they are startled or approached, especially mothers with young. More people each year are injured by moose than by bears. In the summer months, moose blend in well to their environment and can be surprisingly hard to see for such large animals. They are likely to stand their ground even when they hear people approaching, so pay close attention to your surroundings, especially in prime moose habitat such as willow thickets or around streams or ponds.

Kenai Fjords is home to both brown and black bears, although black bears are far more common. Black bears are generally timid and will usually leave an area to avoid a threat. Brown bears are more likely to defend their food and/or their “personal space.” Since bears have only about six months to build up fat reserves to maintain them through the long winter – their main interest is getting food. However protecting cubs is also a high priority of mothers with young. Both species tend to ignore or avoid people, but if they learn to associate easily gotten food with humans, they can become aggressive! Park managers often have no choice but to kill ‘problem’ bears in the interest of visitor safety. See the Wildlife Precautions page for further information.

Never feed wild animals. This includes all park animals; birds, squirrels, marmots, otters and not just bears. Learning to beg for and/or rely on human foods is extremely harmful for all wild animals, big or small. Be careful not to leave wrappers, crumbs or other food trash after picnicking or snacking on the trails.

There are user fees of $5.00 – 7 days or $15.00 – Annual. Individual Hikers/bikers may enter for $3.00. This fee is charged at Exit Glacier May through September.

There is only one campground in the park, Exit Glacier Campground. However, there is camping in Chugach National Forest, through the City of Seward Parks and Recreation Department and at several area private campgrounds. Backcountry camping is allowed throughout the park except within 500 feet of a public use cabin or within 1/8 mile of a road or trail at Exit Glacier. There is no permit required, however, if you are camping outside of the Exit Glacier Campground, you are strongly encouraged to complete a free voluntary backcountry registration before going out. This information helps park managers determine visitor use patterns and identify areas that need food storage lockers or impact monitoring. It can also help us find you in an emergency.

Exit Glacier is open year round and has a 12-site walk-in tent campground. Sites are available on a first-come first-served basis. Campers must be in a designated site and are limited to a maximum of two tents and/or six people per site. You may not sleep in a RV, camper or other vehicle in the campground parking area and overnight parking is not permitted in any other part of the Exit Glacier area. There are no reservations or camping fees. There is a fourteen day stay limit. The campground frequently fills by early evening in July and August. A central food storage/cooking and dining shelter is provided. Cooking and/or storing food in campsites is prohibited. There is a pump for drinking water and pit toilets are available. The Park has four public use cabins available by reservation. Aialik, Holgate and Northarm, along the Kenai Fjords coast are available during the summer months and are accessible by boat or float plane. Willow Cabin, at Exit Glacier is available for winter use from mid-late fall through early April.

Pets are not permitted in campsites. Because of their potential negative impact on park wildlife, pets are allowed only on the Exit Glacier Road and parking lot, provided they are on leash no longer than 6 feet or otherwise restrained. They are not allowed on any trail or in the coastal backcountry. Dogs used for mushing or skijoring may be used on the Harding Icefield at any time, and in the Exit Glacier area when the road is closed by snow and vehicle access is not allowed. Pets are not allowed in any building regardless of the season. Exceptions will be made for service animals such as seeing-eye and hearing ear dogs.

Avoid setting up camp on or near game trails. Keep your camp clean. Cook and eat away from your sleeping area. Store your food by locking it in your vehicle, using a bear-proof storage container or hanging it well above the ground and away from tree trunks. Campfires are allowed in the park, but only wood that is dead and down may be collected by hand for fuel. In the Exit Glacier area, fires are limited to the steel fire rings at the campground cooking shelter and the picnic area. In other areas, you are strongly encouraged to use fire pans and/or to build fires below the tide line on beaches. Any trash and burnt food must be removed from fire rings and packed out with other garbage. If you build a fire ring in the backcountry, dismantle it and scatter the rocks to leave a more pristine site for the next user.

There are several beach camping sites: Abra Cove, Bear Cove, Coleman Bay Arm, Holgate Arm, Kayak Drop, McMullen Cove, Northeastern Glacier Beach, Otter Cove, Pedersen Lagoon, Quicksand Cove, Redstone Glacier Beach, Southwestern Glacier Beach, Sunlight Glacier Beach, Tooth Cove, and Verdant Cove. These can be reached by kayak. Some are privately owned and will require a permit. Nesting birds use some of the sites so they may be seasonally closed. Learn and follow the principles of Leave No Trace to help keep Kenai Fjords pristine, both for future visitors and for the wildlife that make their home here. Travel and camp on durable surfaces. Despite the rugged appearance, the rocky shores and cliffs of Kenai Fjords are vulnerable to human impact. Fragile alpine vegetation is easily damaged and can take years to recover. Stick to the beaches when camping on the coast. Everywhere else in the backcountry, camp on bare rock or snow. Camp in areas where sites have already been established and concentrate use in the middle of the site. Pack out all trash-even things that are biodegradable! Be sure to clean up any campfire litter and remember many modern packaging materials don’t burn. Human waste disposal is no longer permitted in the inter-tidal zone due to concerns about water quality. Instead pack it out or bury it in the uplands in a six-inch deep “cat hole” at least 200 feet from any water source. Toilet paper should always be packed out or carefully and completely burned. If a bear does get into your camp, you are responsible for cleaning up and packing out all debris. Remember the safety of the bear and of future visitors depends on you. Report all bear encounters or problems to a park ranger. Rangers on the coast can be contacted on marine VHF channel 16. Treat your drinking water. Untreated water may contain Giardia, which presents serious health risks. Be sure to boil water for one minute, treat with iodine tablets or use a water filter.

The Park has four public use cabins available by reservation. Aialik, Holgate and Northarm, along the Kenai Fjords coast are available during the summer months and are accessible by boat or float plane. For reservations contact the Alaska Public Lands Information Center at (907)271-2737. Willow Cabin, at Exit Glacier is available for winter use from mid-late fall through early April. Contact the Park at (907) 224-7500 for reservations.

There are no hotel accommodations in the park, but a full range of hotels, bed and breakfasts and hostels are available in Seward and the surrounding area.

There are many other things to see and do in the area. These include: the Alaska Maritime National Wildlife Refuge, the Alaska Sea Life Center, Caines Head State Recreation Area, Chugach National Forest, Lake Clark National Park and Preserve, Katmai National Park and Preserve, Denali National Park and Preserve, the Kenai Wildlife Refuge, and the Seward Historical Society Museum.

Currently there is no regularly scheduled air service between Anchorage and Seward, however charter flights may be available.

The park lies 130 road miles south of Anchorage on the Seward Highway. The park’s information center is located in Seward’s small boat harbor. Bus service is available year round between Anchorage and Seward.

The Alaska Marine Highway (ferry) System connects Seward with Homer and Seldovia via Kodiak, providing service to Valdez and Cordova. The Alaska Railroad serves Seward from Anchorage during the summer months.

In summer, Exit Glacier can be reached by car on a paved road and a short trail. Exit Glacier is the only portion of the park accessible by road. Turn on to the Herman Leirer road at mile 3 of the Seward Highway, this 9 mile road leads to the Exit Glacier Nature Center. The Harding Icefield can be reached by trail or air. Air and boat charters provide access to the fjords.

Approximate Mileage from the following major cities to Kenai Fjords National Park:

By Car:
Woodrow, AK – 6.22 miles
Primrose, AK – 17.01 miles
Muskwa Village, AK – 22.77 miles
Mouse Pass, AK – 28.39 miles

National Park Service, PO Box 1727, Seward, AK 99664
Visitor Information Recorded Message 907-224-2132
Headquarters 907-224-7500
By Fax 907-224-7505

Map

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