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Hovenweep is open year-round. The visitor center is open daily from 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., with extended hours during summer. The visitor center is closed on Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s Day. The most popular seasons are spring (April through May) and fall (mid-September through October). Canyonlands Natural History Association operates the bookstore in the visitor center and sells the official park brochure. Trails are open from sunrise to sunset only.

In 1917-18, J.W. Fewkes of the Smithsonian Institution surveyed the area and recommended the structures be protected. On March 2, 1923, President Warren G. Harding proclaimed Hovenweep a unit of the National Park System.

Human habitation at Hovenweep dates to over 10,000 years ago when nomadic Paleoindians visited the Cajon Mesa to gather food and hunt game. These people used the area for centuries, following the seasonal weather patterns. By about A.D. 900, people started to settle at Hovenweep year-round, planting and harvesting crops in the rich soil of the mesa top. By the late 1200s, the Hovenweep area was home to over 2,500 people.

The towers of Hovenweep were built by ancestral Puebloans, a sedentary farming culture that occupied the Four Corners area from about A.D. 500 to A.D. 1300. The name “Anasazi” has long been used for the prehistoric farmers of the Four Corners area. The term now favored is “ancestral Puebloan,” indicating that these people were the ancestors of modern-day Puebloans. Similarities in architecture, masonry and pottery styles indicate that the inhabitants of Hovenweep were closely associated with groups living at Mesa Verde and other nearby sites.

The ancestral Puebloans prepared their land for cultivation much like farmers do today. They created terraces on hillsides, formed catch basins to hold storm run-off, and built check dams to retain topsoil that would otherwise wash away. Storage granaries under the canyon rims protected harvests of corn, beans and squash for later use.

Most of the structures at Hovenweep were built between A.D. 1200 and 1300. There is quite a variety of shapes and sizes, including square and circular towers, D-shaped dwellings and many kivas (Puebloan ceremonial structures, usually circular). The masonry at Hovenweep is as skillful as it is beautiful. Even the cliff dwellings of Mesa Verde rarely exhibit such careful construction and attention to detail. Some structures built on irregular boulders remain standing after more than 700 years.

Many theories attempt to explain the use of the buildings at Hovenweep. The striking towers might have been celestial observatories, defensive structures, storage facilities, civil buildings, homes or any combination of the above. While archeologists have found that most towers were associated with kivas, their actual function remains a mystery.

By the end of the 13th century, it appears a prolonged drought, possibly combined with resource depletion, factionalism and warfare, forced the inhabitants of Hovenweep to depart. Though the reason is unclear, ancestral Puebloans throughout the area migrated south to the Rio Grande Valley in New Mexico and the Little Colorado River Basin in Arizona. Today’s Pueblo, Zuni and Hopi people are descendants of this culture.

The first historic reports of the abandoned structures at Hovenweep were made by W.D. Huntington, the leader of a Mormon expedition into southeast Utah in 1854. The name “Hovenweep” is a Paiute/Ute word meaning “Deserted Valley” which was adopted by pioneer photographer William Henry Jackson in 1874. In 1917-18, J.W. Fewkes of the Smithsonian Institution surveyed the area and recommended the structures be protected. On March 2, 1923, President Warren G. Harding proclaimed Hovenweep a unit of the National Park System.

The Cajon Group (pronounced ca-hone) consists of a small village constructed in the same configuration as Hackberry, Horseshoe and Holly. The surviving structures are situated at the head of a small canyon, and evidence indicates that 80 to 100 people may have lived here. Under a ledge are several small structures as well as pictographs painted in the Mesa Verde pottery style. In the canyon below, the remains of an earthen dam built to store water can still be seen today. On the western slope of the canyon stand the remains of a remarkable circular tower that conforms perfectly to the shape of three large, irregular boulders. This round structure on a completely uneven surface demonstrates the skill and determination of the ancestral Puebloans that lived at Hovenweep.

The earliest historic record of Cutthroat Castle dates from 1929, when it was documented by archeologist Paul Martin. The site was added to Hovenweep National Monument in 1956. Unlike the other Hovenweep pueblos, the structures at Cutthroat Castle are not located immediately at the head of a canyon, but further downstream. The Cutthroat Group also appears to have a large number of kivas (Puebloan ceremonial structures) relative to other building types.

Puebloan kivas are usually built into the earth, and are typically round. An exception is the kiva incorporated into Cutthroat Castle, which rests on top of a boulder. In Puebloan religion, the kiva is a structure that connects with different worlds. The floor is related to the world below, and is usually built below ground level. The entrance to a typical kiva is through the roof, which relates to the world above. Cutthroat Castle Kiva is surrounded by another structure or room. Access into this surrounding structure appears to have been from below the boulder on which the kiva is built, through a split in the boulder.

Though it may appear isolated, the ancestral Puebloan population at Cutthroat Castle was quite large. Natural resources in the area, particularly the forest of piñon and juniper trees, provided the Puebloans with a variety of useful materials. Piñon seeds were a food source rich in calories and protein. Piñon sap or pitch was used as a waterproof sealant for baskets. Shredded juniper bark was used for clothing and sandals. Trees were burned in fires and used as building materials. In fact, by counting the tree rings present in structural timbers, archeologists can determine exactly when these sites were built.

Researchers studying prehistoric diets have found sagebrush flowers, seeds, and leaves in the Puebloans’ waste. As a minor part of their diet, sagebrush would have been a good source of iron and Vitamin C. In larger amounts, it kills intestinal parasites. Quartz pebbles from stream beds provided material for stone tools. When these rocks are broken using another rock or a piece of antler, they have edges as sharp as glass. Puebloans shaped these hard rocks into tools such as knives, scrapers, and projectile points.

Goodman Point, the eastern-most unit of Hovenweep National Monument, is located in Montezuma County, Colorado and contains prehistoric ruins that, in 1889, were the first archeological resources to be set aside for protection by the federal government. As such, the unit now contains one of the best-preserved, but collapsed, clusters of sites in the Four Corners region.

These resources are very different in nature from sites in the other Hovenweep Units. Instead of multi-storied towers that surround canyon heads and have commanding views, the sites at Goodman Point consist of partially buried pueblos that range in size from small hamlets to very large villages and are covered by piñon-juniper woodland or sagebrush.

Recent surveys within the unit suggest that the area was inhabited sparsely during the Basketmaker II period (AD. 200-450), more densely during the Pueblo II period (A.D. 900-1150), and most densely during the Pueblo III period (A.D. 1150-1300).

Goodman Point Pueblo is the largest site in the unit and contains the collapsed remains of an extensive village complex complete with public architecture such as a great kiva, plazas, at least one compact, multi-storied “tower” and other features.

The National Park Service has recently entered into a cooperative agreement with Crow Canyon Archaeological Center out of Cortez to begin a multi-year testing project at Goodman Point Pueblo in order to better understand the nature of the site and its relationship with surrounding prehistoric communities. Crow Canyon is a non-profit organization that provides experiential and educational opportunities to the public related to archeology, a mission that dove-tails with that of the National Park Service.

If you would like to visit Goodman Point Unit and view the ongoing archeological efforts, please contact the Hovenweep National Monument Visitor Center at Square Tower Unit (970-562-4282) for directions and to obtain additional information about the project.

The Holly Group is named for Jim Holley who ranched and traded in this area during the late 1800s. Holly Site includes Tilted Tower and Boulder House, located at the head of Keeley Canyon. Traveling the pedestrian trail from east to west, the base of a tower structure can be seen along the canyon rim. This multi-story pueblo called Tilted Tower was built atop a large sandstone boulder that shifted sometime after the canyon was abandoned (A.D. 1300). The upper stories of the tower tumbled into the canyon while the footing remained attached.

The design and construction of Tilted Tower is similar to Boulder House, which is the large multi-story tower located inside Keeley Canyon. Built atop a large sandstone boulder on the canyon bottom, Boulder House is detached from the canyon rim, and like many of the towers at Hovenweep National Monument, it is located adjacent to a seep. In contemporary Puebloan culture, springs are special locations associated with stories that talk about the origins of Puebloan peoples. Boulder House was built sometime after A.D. 1200, and it appears that the tower was constructed without outside scaffolding. Each floor was built from the inside, one floor at a time, building upward. Looking at Boulder House, you can still see the steps or hand-holds that were pecked into the boulder below the entrance.

Archeological analysis of the Hovenweep towers suggests these structures were used for multiple activities, although some activities were probably very specialized. The presence of grinding stones such as manos and metates indicates plant materials were being ground, probably for food production. Stone tools typically used for chopping, scraping, and cutting suggest a variety of activities associated with daily life were occurring within the towers. The presence of bone awls suggests activities associated with weaving might have also occurred. In addition, archeologists suggest these towers were usually paired with kivas and the towers may relate to how the kiva connects with the outside world. The deliberate location of towers and kivas at the heads of canyons goes beyond architecture, and has everything to do with the hydrology of the canyon and the way Puebloan peoples envisioned their world. Some of the towers and kivas are placed virtually on top of the springs and seeps that emerge from these canyons.

The walking trail to Hackberry Canyon is a one-mile round-trip walk that includes the structures at both Horseshoe and Hackberry. Structures at these sites were built approximately 800 years ago by the ancestors of today’s Puebloan people. Today their descendents are among the Pueblos of New Mexico and Arizona.

Horseshoe Tower is built on a point that marks the start of the Horseshoe Site. From this tower, inhabitants could see clearly into Horseshoe Canyon. At one time, the tower was walled off from the mesa top, raising questions about the use of such structures for defense.

Further along the Canyon Rim Trail is Horseshoe House, which is composed of four masonry structures that together form a horseshoe shape. From the trail it is easy to see the precisely cut stone-masonry that forms the outside wall of Horseshoe House. Each stone was shaped for a precise fit before being set into place. Clay, sand, and ash, mixed with water from seeps in the canyon below, made the mortar that still holds these walls together. One unresolved question is whether specialized masons built these structures, or if the entire community contributed to their construction.

About 500 yards east of the Horseshoe structures is the Hackberry Site. Archeologists speculate that Hackberry Canyon may have had one of the largest populations of all the Hovenweep units because of the constant seepage of water in the canyon. As many as 250 to 350 people may have lived here. It is unclear if the residents were related or represented different clans and lineages.

The concentrations of structures at both Horseshoe and Hackberry demonstrate the importance of water to the people who lived here. Large multi-story pueblos and towers, located at canyon heads with seeps and springs, are the defining characteristics of the late Pueblo III time period. In this climate, precipitation comes in the form of winter snows, spring rains, and isolated summer thunderstorms. The intermittent rains of summer were crucial to the survival of crops, and Puebloans responded by constructing water-control features. In washes on the mesa tops, small stone dams were built so that sediment could accumulate and water could soak into the ground, flowing slowly into nearby garden plots.

A 23 year-long drought beginning in A.D. 1276 possibly combined with warfare, overpopulation, and limited resources, forced the ancestors of today’s Pueblo people to leave Hovenweep. By the end of the 13th century, Puebloan communities across southeast Utah and southwest Colorado migrated south, joining the pueblos of the Rio Grande River Valley in New Mexico, and the Hopi in Arizona.

The Square Tower Group contains the largest collection of ancestral Puebloan structures at Hovenweep. The remains of nearly thirty kivas have been discovered on the slopes of Little Ruin Canyon, and a variety of other structures are perched on the canyon rims, balanced on boulders and tucked under ledges. It’s possible that as many as 500 people occupied the Square Tower area between A.D. 1200 and 1300.

Square Tower, for which the group is named, is a three-story tower built on a boulder at the head of Little Ruin Canyon. A nearby spring would have been an important resource for the inhabitants of Hovenweep. To increase water storage, a checkdam was built above the spring in order to slow storm runoff. The unique location and appearance of Square Tower fuels speculation that it was a ceremonial structure.

Located near the visitor center and campground, the Square Tower Group is the only unit of Hovenweep accessible by a paved road. A moderately strenuous trail follows the canyon rim and offers excellent views of every structure. Most visitors spend one to two hours exploring the area. Between the visitor center and the first overlook the trail is paved and may be traversed by visitors in wheelchairs with assistance.

The rocks at Hovenweep were deposited over 100 million years ago during the Cretaceous Period. The landscape at that time featured streams, lakes and flood plains. The Dakota Sandstone forms the mesa tops and cliffs in the area, while the Burro Canyon Shale forms talus slopes.

The geology of the surrounding landscape produces springs and seeps. In these canyons, permeable Dakota sandstone rests on top of impermeable Burro Canyon shale. Water from rain and snow soaks through the sandstone, but is forced to flow outward when it meets the shale. When this water reaches the wall of a canyon it forms a spring.

The dirt is alive! A living crust called “Biological Soil Crust” covers much of Hovenweep and the surrounding area. Composed of algae, lichens and bacteria, this crust provides a secure foundation for desert plants. Please stay on roads and trails to avoid trampling this important resource.

Natural resources in the area include the forest of piñon and juniper trees and sagebrush. Pinyon pines do not produce pine nuts every year. These delicious nuts can only be harvested every three to seven years. This irregular schedule prevents animals from adapting to an abundance of pine nuts and guarantees that at least some nuts will become new pine trees instead of a quick meal.

Hovenweep National Monument includes six separate pueblos in two states. They include Cajon and Square Tower in Utah, as well as Cutthroat, Horseshoe, Hackberry and Goodman Point in Colorado.

The trail system at Hovenweep provides visitors excellent views of all the archeological sites. The archeology of Hovenweep delights kids as much as adults. The Square Tower Group Trail is fun for all ages. The Square Tower Group features a two mile loop that begins at the visitor center and is a perfect starting point for any visit. Between the visitor center and the first overlook (a distance of roughly 300 yards), the trail is paved and may be traversed by visitors in wheelchairs with assistance. Most visitors spend an hour exploring the area, with the full two-mile loop taking at least 1.5 hours.

Visitors may also explore the outlying sites, which include Cajon, Cutthroat Castle, Goodman Point, Holly and Horseshoe/Hackberry. Most areas have very short (a half mile or less one-way) trails which are primitive and lightly maintained. Backpacking is not permitted at Hovenweep.

Rangers conduct short patio and overlook talks on a regular basis spring through fall. Kids also enjoy interpretive talks where they might learn how to play the Indian flute, how to use an atlatl, or how lizards survive at Hovenweep. Subjects vary from season to season. Please contact the park or ask at the visitor center for current schedules. Guided walks and other interpretive programs can be arranged for larger groups. Please contact the park in advance.

Along with family-oriented interpretive talks, Hovenweep has a Junior Ranger Program suitable for ages 6 to 11. The program introduces children to the cultural history of the area and their role in preserving special places like Hovenweep. The free booklet includes several fun activities that kids can complete while they explore the Square Tower Group. Booklets are available at the visitor center. Hovenweep also has a free activity sheet for children 5 and under.

There are many compelling stories told about Hovenweep. One story observes that several of the structures and rock art panels seem designed to mark major celestial events such as the summer solstice. While this is largely conjecture, the open skies of Hovenweep certainly draw one’s attention, and fortunately the night sky is about as dark today as it was 700 years ago, so you can enjoy star gazing.

The dirt is alive! A living crust called “Biological Soil Crust” covers much of Hovenweep and the surrounding area. Composed of algae, lichens and bacteria, this crust provides a secure foundation for desert plants. Please stay on roads and trails to avoid trampling this important resource.

Southeast Utah is part of the Colorado Plateau, a “high desert” region that experiences wide temperature fluctuations, sometimes over 40 degrees in a single day. During spring (April through May) and fall (mid-September through October), high temperatures average 60 to 80 F and lows average 30 to 50 F. Summer temperatures often exceed 100 F, making strenuous exercise difficult.

Late summer monsoon season brings violent storm cells which often cause flash floods. Winters are cold, with highs averaging 30 to 50 F, and lows averaging 0 to 20 F. Though large snowfalls are uncommon (except in nearby mountains), even small amounts of snow or ice can make local trails and roads impassable. Local weather conditions and forecasts are available from the National Weather Service.

Current Park Weather

The visitor center and restrooms are wheelchair accessible. The Square Tower Group trail is paved to the first overlook and may be negotiated by wheelchairs with assistance. All other trails are uneven and primitive.

Because of the high summer temperatures, it is advisable to drink plenty of water, wear sunscreen, sunglasses, light colored, light weight clothing, good walking shoes, and a hat.

Pets are allowed on trails and in the campground, but must be leashed at all times.

Food, gas, lodging and similar services are not available at Hovenweep. These are available in nearby towns like Blanding, UT, Monticello, UT and Cortez, CO.

Cell phone coverage is poor to nonexistent throughout the area.

Lizards, including the colorful collared lizard, are one of the most frequently seen animals at Hovenweep. When not chasing flies or basking in the sun, they are often seen doing what appears to be push-ups. Scientists believe this and other behaviors signal dominance and facilitate courtship.

All federal lands passes are issued and accepted at Hovenweep.

Individuals: $3 (Good for 7 Days)

This fee applies to motorcycles, bicycles and walk-ins (per person).

Vehicles: $6 (Good for 7 days)

This fee includes all occupants of a vehicle.

Local Passport: $25 (Good for one year)

Good for entrance to Arches, Canyonlands, Hovenweep and Natural Bridges.

There is a small campground with 30 sites near the visitor center which is open year round on a first-come, first-served basis. The sites are designed for tent camping, though a few sites will accommodate RVs up to 36 feet long. Hookups are not available. Sites include tent pads, fire grills and picnic tables with shade structures. The fee is $10.00 per night. Flush toilets and running water are available. The campground rarely fills.

Arches National Park, Aztec Ruins National Monument, Canyonlands National Park, Chaco Culture National Historical Park, Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Mesa Verde National Park, Natural Bridges National Monument, Canyons of the Ancients National Monument, Canyon Rims B.L.M. Recreation Area, Anasazi Heritage Center, Crow Canyon Archaeological Center, San Juan National Forest, and the Ute Mountain Indian Reservation are nearby in Utah and Colorado.

Paved roads lead to the visitor center and Square Tower Group from Cortez, Colorado (County Road G / McElmo Canyon Road), from Highway 191 south of Blanding, Utah, and from Pleasant View, Colorado. All roads into the outlying units are dirt and are not maintained regularly. High-clearance vehicles are recommended for visiting these sites.

Commercial airlines serve Cortez and Grand Junction, CO, Salt Lake City and Moab, UT, and Albuquerque, NM as well as other cities in the Four Corners area.

There is no public transportation to Hovenweep.

Approximate Mileage from the following major cities to Hovenweep National Monument:

By Car:

Provo, UT – 305.39 miles

Denver, CO – 384.68 miles

Phoenix, AZ – 412.51 miles

Albuquerque, NM – 275.84 miles

Hovenweep National Monument

McElmo Route

Cortez, CO 81321

Visitor Information (970) 562-4282

Fax (970) 562-4283

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