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Hot Springs National Park Visitor Center is open all year 9:00 a.m.-5:00 p.m. It is closed Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Years days. It is located in the former Fordyce Bathhouse on Bathhouse Row in downtown Hot Springs. Bathhouse Row is located on Arkansas Highway 7 or Central Avenue between Reserve and Fountain Streets. Parking is available in private lots and meters on all adjacent streets. During the summer, special family programs for your family vacation are being offered several afternoons and evenings each week. The Fordyce Bathhouse exhibits 24 rooms that are refurnished like they were when the building opened for baths in 1915. Modern exhibits on the second floor detail the use and development of the spa. The Fordyce Spring is also on display in the basement. The visitor center in the former Fordyce Bathhouse is also a museum offering self-guided tours. Considered the most elegant bathhouse when completed in 1915, it contains lovely mosaic tile floors, marble, stained glass windows and ceilings, gymnasium, and routine bathing equipment. The park 15-minute orientation movie, “Valley of Vapors,” offers a brief history of the area. “Taking the Baths” is a 9-minute video showing the traditional bathing routine in the Hot Springs bathhouses. Eastern National has a bookstore with books and other items pertaining to the baths and the park. Rest rooms and water fountains are located in the basement.

The Visitor Center is fully accessible with wheelchairs available for loan. There is a loading zone in front of the Visitor Center; parking is across the street in public lots or in a city lot at the south end of Bathhouse Row. A model of Bathhouse Row and other architectural features is available for blind and visually impaired visitors. The park brochure is available on cassette and large print park information can be obtained at the information desk. An American Sign Language interpreter can be provided for regularly scheduled tours with five days notice.

Congress established Hot Springs Reservation on April 20, 1832 to protect 47 hot springs and their watershed flowing from the western slope of Hot Springs Mountain. Hot Springs Reservation became Hot Springs National Park by a Congressional name change on March 4, 1921. The hot springs are the primary natural resource of the park, but they have not been preserved in their unaltered state as natural surface phenomena. They have instead been managed to conserve the production of uncontaminated hot water for public use. The mountains within the park are also managed within this conservation philosophy in order to preserve the hydrological system that feeds the springs.

The park and its surrounding mountains exhibit a south-central United States pine-oak-hickory forest ecosystem. Outside of the Bathhouse/Grand Promenade historic areas, Hot Springs National Park is primarily forested hills and valleys. The oak-hickory-pine forest type includes many other tree and shrub species. Wildflowers and blooming trees are especially beautiful in spring, while autumn brings many bright colors of leaves. The park’s vegetation, thermal waters, cold water springs, bathhouses and associated cultural features, foot trails, prehistoric and historic novaculite quarries, and general physiographic combine to form an almost 5400 acre area of resource preservation and interpretation that is under the exclusive legislative jurisdiction of the federal government. Another 672.69 acres are within the park boundary but are not federally owned. The city of Hot Springs, Arkansas, with an approximate population of 33,000, lies immediately outside the park and exerts a significant influence on it.

Wildlife within the park is typical of the region, consisting mostly of rodents, bats, and other small mammals. Because of the region’s mild climate, bird species are varied and plentiful making for some excellent bird watching. The park is home to a variety of song birds as well as wild turkey. It also supports a variety of small animals; those that can adapt to living near people thrive. The wooded parklands provide a home to foxes and deer and sometimes beaver build homes in a stream.

President Thomas Jefferson wanted to know more about his Louisiana Purchase and began making plans for Americans to explore it. Jefferson was interested in the Red and Arkansas Rivers, southern tributaries of the Mississippi, and wrote to William Dunbar of Natchez, Mississippi, about leading an exploratory party. There was too much unrest with the American Indians and Spanish along the Red River, the southwestern border of the territory, so Dunbar suggested a shorter trip to “the hot springs on the Washita.” Jefferson agreed and recommended Dr. George Hunter, a Philadelphia chemist, as the second principal. The first scientific expedition to the hot springs was led by William Dunbar and Dr. George Hunter in 1804-05. This first scientific expedition into the new territory set out from Natchez, Mississippi, on October 16, 1804, traveling down the Mississippi River to the mouth of the Red River, then upstream a short distance to the Black River, and finally to the mouth of the Ouachita River. Along the journey, Dunbar and Hunter took astonomical readings for use in plotting the route after their return. They also made observations about the plants and wildlife that they encountered, as well as the mineral resources. Abundant natural resources would be necessary to the success of settlers in the new territory. One of the most important discoveries, besides the hot springs, was a source of rock suitable for whetstones for knife sharpening.

The party camped at the hot springs from December 9, 1804, until January 8, 1805. Dunbar and Hunter improved a cabin built for summer use and stayed in it while the enlisted men camped. Dunbar reported to President Jefferson that “… the hot springs themselves are indeed a great curiosity; the temperature of their waters is from 130 to 150° of Farheneits’ [sic] thermometer.” In his journal, Dr. Hunter pondered the cause of the heat of the springs. He speculated that they were heated by chemical reactions. Of the hot springs, Dunbar wrote, “I shall only mention that from our analysis of the water of the hot springs, it appears to contain lime with a minute portion of iron disolved [sic] by a small excess of Carbonic acid: this is indeed visible upon first view of the Springs. An immense body of Calcareous matter is accumulated upon the side of the hill, by the perpetual depositions from the hot waters, and the bed of the run is coloured [sic] by red oxid [sic] of iron or rather Carbonated iron. Every little spring which rises up in a favorable situation, forms its own calcareous cup, considerably elevated in form of a Crater.” Both men’s journals are in the archives of the American Philosophical Society in Philadelphia, the repository of scientific papers and materials of the day. Dunbar’s original journal is in the Ouachita Baptist University archives.

The first permanent settlers to reach the Hot Springs area arrived in 1807. By the 1830s, log cabins and a store had been built to meet the needs (albeit in a rudimentary way) of visitors to the springs. Bathing in the springs in their natural state or in the wild was not a sought after pastime. Bathhouses or places to take a bath in private became part of the park’s landscape as soon as the springs became popular in the early to mid 1800s. The first bathhouses, which were constructed in the late 1830s, were really little more than brush huts and log cabins placed over excavations cut in the rocks to receive hot water that flowed from the springs. More elaborate bathing facilities soon developed, and a complicated series of wooden troughs was constructed to convey hot water from the springs on the hillside to bathhouses located on the valley floor. These bathhouses were built along the east bank of Hot Springs Creek. Some of the tufa covering the hillside was excavated and removed to make room for them. The visitor of that time would cross over Hot Springs Creek via a bridge from the narrow street which ran the length of the valley. The creek, however, had a tendency to flood and was muddy during wet weather, foul during dry.

Much unplanned growth occurred before direct federal supervision was exercised in 1877. Shortly after this event, an engineer from Yellowstone National Park was detailed to make major improvements. The creek was eventually arched over and the space above and on either side filled in, permitting construction of a street 100 feet (30 meters) wide. Diggings, tents, shacks, and rubbish cluttered the area above and between the springs. All squatters were evicted, a few of the springs were encased, and a centralized plumbing system was begun. Individual bathhouses, however, still had ingenious but often unreliable flumes and pipes leading from various springs. Not until comparatively recent times has a unified central collection, cooling, and distribution system been achieved.

The bathhouses became bigger and better as building materials became readily available, that is when transportation to the area improved. By the late 1800s the bathhouses in Hot Springs, Arkansas, rivaled bathhouses at the spas in Europe. There were large luxurious hotels and bathhouses for wealthy visitors and smaller accommodations with less luxurious amenities for those of average income. Eventually the government even provided free bathing service for those determined to be indigent or unable to afford the baths by their own means and had a doctor’s recommendation for the baths. By 1901 all of the springs had been walled up and covered to protect them and their water now runs through underground pipes rather than filtering down over the hillside. Between 1912 and 1922 the wooden Victorian bathhouses built in the 1880s were replaced by fire-resistant brick and stucco bathhouses, several of which featured marble walls, billiard rooms, gymnasiums, and stained glass windows.

Individual springs began to gain a reputation for alleviating specific ills. Some of the names given the springs refer to their chemical properties: Magnesia, Big Iron, and Arsenic. Big Iron deserves its designation for the ocherous crusts and stains that precipitate from its water. Arsenic Spring, on the other hand, contains no detectable traces of that substance. An anomalous pair of cold-water springs was named after adjoining organs of the body: Kidney and Liver. Drinking copious quantities of kidney had the predictable effect, but the value of Liver remains obscure. These two springs are no longer in existence.

At one time or another, almost any of the open springs could have gone by the designation, “Mud”. This name, however, was reserved for the most viscous of the lot. Mud Spring was a favorite among early bathers, who could ease themselves into its tepid ooze without fear of getting parboiled. Minor differences in the composition of the individual spring waters do exist but their overall similarity indicates a common origin. All of these waters are now mixed together, and a single water of the same composition is supplied to each of the bathhouses.

In 1905, Professor B.B. Boltwood of Yale showed that the waters contained a measurable level of radioactivity. This radioactivity is due primarily to the presence of dissolved radon gas, secondarily to radium. These two elements come from decay of tiny traces of uranium and thorium, which are scattered throughout the rocks through which the thermal waters flow. Both radon and radium were considered in the past to have curative properties. As a result, collection and distribution equipment was specifically designed to retain the radon gas. Today we recognize that it is probably not healthful to be exposed to uncontrolled radiation of any kind. The radon gas, however, is initially present in extremely small quantities, and most escapes into the air space in the storage reservoirs before the hot waters are pumped to the bathhouses. The level of exposure to radiation that results from bathing in these appears to be similar to the level that would result from sitting in the sun for the same period of time. A greater exposure may result from drinking the water. Even though water quality standards for public supplies have been considerably tightened in recent years, park water is considered well within safe limits. Other natural waters within the region and throughout the world have similar levels of activity.

The individual springs vary in the amount of water they discharge. Some are mere seeps. The total amount of water discharged by the hot springs as a group, ranges from 750,000 gallons per day to about 950,000 gallons per day. Studies by the U.S. Geological Survey show that discharge is highest in winter. Maximum water temperatures have declined about 5oF (3oC) since records have been kept. Dissolved, silica content, which is also a measure of maximum water temperature, has also declined slightly.

Geochemists from the USGS have determined that the thermal waters at Hot Springs are actually rainwater. The water is believed to be collected in the broad valley in the northern part of the city of Hot Springs and than percolates down through hard brittle rock that was fractured during mountain building eons ago. It picks up minerals as it flows through the rock and many chemical changes occur. It is uncertain how the waters are heated, but it is believed to be caused from the earth’s temperature being warmer by 3- 5 degrees every 300 feet down. Some of the water coming out of the springs is estimated to be thousands of years old and averages 143 degrees F. Resting at estimated levels of 6,000 to 8, 000 feet, or 1800 to 2400 meters, in a valley, possibly just northwest of the hot springs, the water finds a ready release in the large cracks and fractures that occur here. This allows the water to ascend much faster then it dropped and therefore, there is little cooling of the waters. The reason the water finds its way back up to the surface is believed to be threefold. One, the rainwater coming into the ground comes from a broad area that is slightly elevated from where the water comes out. Secondly, water becomes more buoyant when it is heated under great depths. And thirdly, the space where the water comes out is more narrow then the rainwater coming in causing a more rapid ascent. Usually thermal springs occur where recent volcanic activity has occurred. It is rare in the central part of the United States, especially in a small valley in central Arkansas. There is a delicate balance between the upper springs and the underground waters. The park will continue to maintain the springs to insure that nothing man does will reduce the flow of these waters or alter their chemical quality.

One of the most outstanding sights in the Valley of the Hot Springs in history was the massive blanket of calcareous tufa on the side of Hot Springs Mountain. Vestiges of the tufa can still be seen in several places in the park. It is exposed at the open springs behind the Maurice Bathhouse and forms the cliff in back of the south end of Bathhouse Row. DeSoto Rock, across from the Arlington Hotel, is a large block of tufa that has tumbled down from the steep cliff just to the east. Another interesting exposure of tufa is located on the hillside above the Grand Promenade near the north gates to the Rehabilitation Center. This is far above present hot spring activity. Here lies a broad dome of porous calcium carbonate about three feet (one meter) thick where it is cut by the old carriage roadway. The deposit overlies from 2-6 inches (5-15cm) of a black silty material probably an old soil layer. This dome may represent some of the oldest tufa in the park. It is known that the springs which deposited it were extinct by the time of Dunbar and Hunter’s visit in 1804. The tufa cliffs are no longer forming because most of the hot water is now diverted. Nature cannot be controlled, however, and some calcium carbonate now precipitates out in the pipes and reservoirs of the park’s hot water collecting system.

The usual camping gear is needed for camping. Good hiking shoes or boots will come in handy for long walks. Central Arkansas has four seasons. The weather in summer is hot and very humid. Remember to wear comfortable clothing. Spring and fall is mild so a jacket is recommended. Winter weather can be from freezing to a high in the 60’s.

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Remember that the animals are wild and need to stay that way. Do not feed or harass them. All park animals are protected.

Camping is available at Gulpha Gorge Campground for $10.00 per night.

At the date of this publication, you can still take the baths for $19.00 to $30.00 or indulge in a massage for $20.00 to $50.00.

Gulpha Gorge Campground is open all year and is located on 7-spur, a short distance off the four-lane U.S. Highway 70B, on the eastern edge of Hot Springs. It has 43 wooded tent and RV campsites available. Each is supplied with a picnic table and pedestal grill. Fires are permitted only in the campsite grill. No commercial wood is available within the park. Water supplies, comfort stations, and a dumping station are located within the campground. While there are no showers or hookups, there are modern restrooms. Water is available at several stations throughout the campground most of the year and at the dump station. Quiet hours are 10:00 p.m.-6:00 a.m.

Pets are allowed if leashed. Please pick up animal waste. Sites are available on a first come, first served basis. No reservations can be taken. Camping is limited to no more than 14 days in a calendar year. Several hiking trails that connect with others in the park begin at Gulpha Gorge. Campgrounds with more amenities are available in the surrounding area.

Central High School National Historic Site is 60 miles away. Arkansas Post National Memorial is 115 miles away. Buffalo National River is located 160 miles away. Fort Smith National Historic Site is 130 miles away. Pea Ridge National Military Park is 225 miles away. The City of Hot Springs is right there. Ouachita National Forest is very close. Lake Ouachita, Corps of Engineers, is15 miles away. Lake Ouachita State Park is 18 miles away. Lake Catherine State Park is 18 miles away.

Hot Springs is serviced by a local airport, Hot Springs Memorial Field, or Little Rock National Airport (with shuttle service and rental cars.)

Hot Springs National Park is in downtown Hot Springs. Visitors traveling north-south on I-30 take the Hot Springs US 70 West exit south of Benton, the Hot Springs US 270 West exit at Malvern, or the Hot Springs Ark. 7 North exit near Arkadelphia; visitors traveling south on Ark. 7 will come through downtown Hot Springs where the visitor center is located; visitors traveling south on US 71 from Fort Smith, or north on US 71 from Texarkana, take the US 270 East exit; visitors coming from Oklahoma on US 70 would take this route all the way into Hot Springs. When you get into the city you will see signs for the National Park. The Visitor Center is located downtown on Highway 7 North or Central Avenue.

Greyhound Bus Lines services Hot Springs with a station located at 1001 Central Ave, Suite D. Amtrak’s Texas Eagle route serves Little Rock, Arkansas, with shuttle services to Hot Springs.

For getting around in the park, you may use personal vehicle or bicycles on the roads.

Approximate Mileage from the following major cities to Hot Springs National Park:

By Car:

Little Rock, AR – 56.90 miles

Memphis, TN – 190.56 miles

Shreveport, TX – 191.69 miles

Jonesboro, AR – 183.93 miles

By Plane:

Hot Springs Memorial Field local Airport – 5.87 miles

Little Rock National Airport – 57.36 miles

Hot Springs National Park
101 Reserve Street, Hot Springs AR 71901
Visitor Information (TDD) 501-624-2308
Superintendent’s Office 501-623-2824
By Fax 501-624-3458
By E-Mail: hosp_interpretation@nps.gov

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