Capitol Reef National Park

Capitol Reef National Park
Capitol Reef National Park is located in south-central Utah on Utah Highway 24
Capitol Reef National Park has much to offer as a place to plan your family adventure vacation. If an outdoor adventure is what you crave, you couldn’t ask for a better park! There are miles of colorful canyons, buttes, and monoliths for exploring whether you enjoy hiking, backpacking, mountain biking, climbing, or would rather view it from the comfort of your car on one of several scenic drives. There’s plenty of history also to investigate as you check out the orchards near the visitor center, the remains of a Mormon settlement, called, what else-Fruita. Check out below for great Capitol Reef National Park information.
Uniqueness
The Waterpocket Fold, a 100-mile long wrinkle in the earth’s crust known as a monocline, extends from nearby Thousand Lakes Mountain to the Colorado River (now Lake Powell). Capitol Reef National Park was established to protect this grand and colorful geologic feature, as well as the unique historical and cultural history found in the area. Capitol Reef is a place to enjoy the scenic majesty formed by geologic processes, and also to appreciate the interrelationships between the Earth and all life found in the varied environments within the park – - from the forested slopes of Thousand Lake Mountain, to the green oasis of Fruita, to the barren Bentonite Hills.
Capitol Reef National Park comprises 378 square miles of colorful canyons, ridges, buttes, and monoliths. The area was called the “Land of the Sleeping Rainbow” by the Navajo because of the brilliantly colored canyon walls.
About 75 miles of the long up-thrust called the “Waterpocket Fold”, extending like a rugged spine from Thousand Lake Plateau southward to Lake Powell, is preserved within the park boundary. “Capitol Reef” is the name of an especially rugged and spectacular part of the Waterpocket Fold near the Fremont River. : “Capitol” for the white domes of Navajo Sandstone that resemble capitol building rotundas, and “reef” for the rocky cliffs which are a barrier to travel, like a coral reef.
The park’s main driving tours include the paved Scenic Drive and two long, mainly unpaved, loop tours through the park’s Cathedral and Waterpocket Districts, providing plenty of adventure travel as you see the sites. The Scenic Drive starts at the park Visitor Center and provides access to Grand Wash, Capitol Gorge, Pleasant Creek, and the South Draw Road. The Scenic Drive is a 10 mile paved road with dirt spur roads into Grand Wash and Capitol Gorge that, weather permitting, are accessible to ordinary passenger vehicles. The South Draw Road is a high clearance 4-wheel-drive road that extends from Pleasant Creek to the park boundary near Tantalus Flats. The South Draw Road is rough and rocky, includes several creek crossings, and, in inclement weather, becomes impassable to even 4-wheel-drive vehicles.
The Notom-Bullfrog road intersects Utah Hwy 24 9.3 miles east of the Capitol Reef Visitor Center and extends south to Bullfrog Marina and Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. This dirt road runs along the eastern side of the Waterpocket Fold and offers excellent scenery as well as marvelous hiking opportunities. Access too many of the park’s backcountry trails, such as Lower Muley Twist and Halls Creek Narrows can be found off this road and promise great backpacking trips. While portions of the road outside the park are paved, the majority of the Notom-Bullfrog road is dirt and subject to changes in weather conditions. Visitors are advised to check with the Visitor Center before setting out.
The Burr Trail road has 5.3 mile stretch of road inside Capitol Reef and includes a breathtaking set of switchbacks rising some 800 feet in only one- half mile. These switchbacks are not considered suitable for RVs or vehicles towing trailers. The Harnet road affords expansive views of the Blue Flats and the South Desert. The Caineville Wash road, or eastern side of the Cathedral Valley Loop, begins 18.6 miles east of the Visitor Center. 16.5 miles up the road, in Lower Cathedral Valley, are the Temple of the Sun and Moon, massive monoliths rising from the desert floor. Further north in Upper Cathedral Valley, columns of spire-like formations dominate the landscape offering a unique setting for that family adventure vacation.
Kids can interview a ranger, map an ancient earthquake, or get their feet wet watching water bugs! There are opportunities to become a Junior Ranger or Junior Geologist. Visit the new Ripple Rock Nature Center, ¾ mile from the visitor center or get everyone into the act with a Family Fun Pack. The wide open skies make ideal stargazing. From May to September, the park offers a variety of ranger-guided programs at no charge. These include guided walks, talks, and evening programs at the campground amphitheater. Explore the national park with a horseback riding trip, backpacking trip, a mountain biking vacation, or scenic drives that will make this one of those memorable family vacations!
The park and campgrounds are open year round. The Visitor Center is open daily (except Christmas Day) from 8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. with extended hours during the summer season.
On August 2, 1937, President Roosevelt signed a proclamation creating Capitol Reef National Monument. It became a national park in 1971 after several enlargements of the monument property.
The earliest traces of human activity date from the 9th century when Indian peoples occupied the flood plains and high ground near the few perennial watercourses. These people – called the Fremont Culture by archeologists – were contemporaries of the pueblo-building Anasazi of the Four Corners area but were less advanced. In the 13th century, all Indian cultures in this area underwent sudden change; the Fremont Indian settlements and fields were abandoned. No one is sure what happened to these Fremont hunter-farmers. Not for several centuries did significant human activity reappear. When the first white explorers traveled in the vicinity of the Waterpocket Fold, both Utes and Southern Paiute nomads were encountered. Despite the fact that numerous expeditions passed near Capitol Reef, none of them explored the Waterpocket Fold to any great extent. It was, as now, incredibly rugged and forbidding.
There are fruit trees that lie within a mile or two of the Visitor Center. These trees – apple, pear, peach, cherry, apricot, mulberry, even Potowatomee Plum – are the most obvious reminder of the pioneer community that once prospered in the narrow valley of the Fremont River. Mormon settlers along the Fremont River were well known for their orchards as well as sorghum (for syrup and molasses), vegetables and alfalfa. Along the Fremont River, barter served as the means for acquiring goods and services; cash was in short supply. Although some Fruita men worked on state roads, annual fruit sales remained the major sources of cash income. Fifty years ago, Fruita was spared much of the anguish that the Great Depression brought to other communities in America. Long reliance on barter as the main method of obtaining basic life needs shielded the Fremont River settlers from the cash drought that plagued the nation.
Although most of the structures of the Fruita settlement are gone (with the exception of the restored schoolhouse, the Gifford house and barn, and a few others), the orchards remain and dominate the landscape. The new general management plan for Capitol Reef National Park cites the value of the orchards as a “historic landscape” and affirms the resolve of the NPS to preserve them. As each fruit crop comes into season, the fruit is made available to the public on a pick-your-own basis. The park Superintendent sets the per pound or bushel price after checking local commercial orchard prices. Although he may take the isolation of Fruita into consideration in setting prices, he is not permitted to undercut private enterprise. You are welcome to stroll in any unlocked orchard and you may consume as much ripe fruit as you want while in the orchards. Fruit may not be picked in quantity until the designated harvest begins.
Nearly 10,000 feet of sedimentary strata are found in the Capitol Reef area. These rocks range in age from Permian (as old as 270 million years old) to Cretaceous (as young as 80 million years old.) The Waterpocket Fold has tilted this geologic layer-cake down to the east. The older rocks are found in the western part of the park, and the younger rocks are found near the east boundary. The tilt of the Waterpocket Fold dies out at Thousand Lake Mountain near the northwestern boundary of the park. Rock layers in Cathedral Valley have a gentle inclination of 3 – 5 degrees to the east and appear nearly horizontal.
Deep erosion has carved Cathedral Valley’s free-standing monoliths, or temples, out of the soft reddish-orange Entrada Sandstone, which was originally deposited as sandy mud on a tidal flat. Some of the cathedrals are capped by thin, hard beds of greenish gray marine sandstone, the Curtis Formation.
Recent years have seen an increase in climbing in Utah’s canyon country. The rock at Capitol Reef is comprised predominately of sandstone. It varies in hardness from the soft crumbly Entrada to the relatively hard Wingate. The Wingate cliff walls are the most popular for rock climbing, as natural fracturing has created many climbable crack systems. In addition, the hardness of the Wingate lends itself more readily to the successful use of chocks, nuts, and camming devices; however it can flake off easily and be very unpredictable. Climbing in canyon country is not something to be taken lightly.
Capitol Reef National Park is a clean climbing area. Minimum impact techniques that don’t destroy the rock or leave a visual trail are encouraged. The use of white chalk is prohibited. Climbers using chalk must use chalk which closely matches the color of the surrounding rock. The use of power drills is also prohibited. Bolts may only be used to replace existing unsafe bolts. Where it is necessary to leave or replace existing webbing, the webbing should closely match the color of the surrounding rock. Ropes may not be left in place unattended for more than 24 hours, and these ropes must be out of reach from the ground or other points accessible without technical climbing.
In the Fruita area, there are 15 day-hiking trails with trailheads located along Utah Hwy. 24 and the Scenic Drive. These trails offer the hiker a wide variety of options, from easy strolls along smooth paths over level ground to strenuous hikes involving steep climbs over uneven terrain near cliff edges. Hikes may take you deep into a narrow gorge, to the top of high cliffs for a bird’s eye view of the surrounding area, under a natural stone arch, to historic inscriptions…and much, much more! Round trip distances vary in length from less than 1/4 mile to 10 miles. All trails are well-marked with signs at the trailhead and at trail junctions and by cairns (stacks of rocks) along the way. A free guide to the trails is available at the visitor center.
Capitol Reef also offers much adventure travel for serious backpacking and those who enjoy exploring remote areas. Marked hiking trails lead into narrow, twisting gorges and slot canyons and to spectacular viewpoints high atop the Waterpocket Fold. Popular backcountry hikes in the southern section of the park include Upper and Lower Muley Twist Canyons and Halls Creek. Backcountry hiking opportunities also exist in the Cathedral Valley area and near Fruita, in other words, the possibilities are endless! Stop in the visitor center and talk to a ranger if you are interested in a backcountry hike. They can help you pick out a hike that will fit your time and abilities. If you plan on overnight hiking, you need to obtain a free backcountry permit at the visitor center prior to your trip. Backcountry group size cannot exceed 12 people. Pets are not permitted on trails or anywhere in the backcountry. Pets may not be left unattended at trailheads or in other locations either.
Cryptobiotic soil is found throughout the world. In arid regions, these living soil crusts are dominated by cyanobacteria, and also include soil lichens, mosses, green algae, microfungi and bacteria. These crusts play an important role in the ecosystems in which they occur. In the high deserts of the Colorado Plateau (which includes parts of Utah, Arizona, Colorado and New Mexico), these knobby black crusts are extraordinarily well-developed, and may represent 70 to 80 percent of the living ground cover. The fibers that confer such tensile strength to these crusts are no match for the compressional stress placed on them by footprints or machinery, especially when the crusts are dry and brittle. This soil is fragile. Impacted areas may never fully recover. Under the best circumstances, a thin veneer of cryptobiotic soil may return in five to seven years. Damage done to the sheath material, and the accompanying loss of soil nutrients, is repaired slowly during up to 50 years of cyanobacterial growth. Lichens and mosses may take even longer to recover. Stay on existing trails and when you must go off trail, walk in wash bottoms or on slickrock. Camp on slickrock or in previously disturbed areas. Ask a ranger to show you what the living soil looks like so you can avoid it whenever possible.
Summer temperatures often climb into the upper 90s (F), but nights cool down into the 50s (F) and 60s (F). The thunderstorm season from July through September brings cloudbursts, flash floods and lightning. Do not enter a narrow gorge or slot canyon if storms are threatening and never camp in wash bottoms. Spring and fall are milder with highs generally in the 50s (F) and 60s (F). Daytime winter highs average less than 50 (F). Snowfall is usually light, especially at lower elevations. Humidity is low all year. Wear appropriate clothing, footwear, sunscreen and a hat.
Climbing during the summer is very hot as temperatures frequently reach the upper 90′s to near 100 degrees. Afternoon thunderstorms are common in July and August. Sandstone is weak when wet, so avoid climbing in damp areas or right after a rain. Please climb safely! Many falls have been taken on relatively easy routes because experienced climbers became careless. Please report all accidents or injuries at the visitor center.
Help protect the fragile desert environment. Stay on established trails, avoid stepping in cryptobiotic crust, and do not shortcut switchbacks. Do not throw rocks. Climbing on loose talus or steep slickrock is dangerous, and it is always harder to climb down than to climb up. Don’t take unnecessary risks…help may be a long way off. Think before you act. If you do become rimrocked, call for help and wait for assistance rather than attempting to climb down…one misplaced step or handhold could end in tragedy.
Always carry water! Even the shortest stroll will make you thirsty on a 100 degree summer day. At this time of year, rapid dehydration is common and could be fatal to the unprepared hiker. Potable water is available at the pump located in the visitor center parking lot, and at the spigots in front of each restroom in the Fruita campground. A minimum of one gallon per person per day is recommended, more for backpackers. Water is scarce in the backcountry, especially during the hot summer months. Water pockets, seeps, and springs are scattered throughout canyon country but are unreliable. Plan to carry in all your water. If you do use water from backcountry sources, boil or filter the water before drinking to kill Giardia.
For backcountry hiking/camping be sure to use a backpacking checklist. Carry topographic maps and guides of the area. Pack out all trash, including garbage, cigarette butts, and toilet paper and do not burn or bury. Bury human waste 6″ deep in soil and 100′ from water sources. Stay on marked routes whenever possible. When hiking cross-country, walk in wash bottoms, on slickrock, or use animal trails to avoid stepping in cryptobiotic crust. Use portable stoves for cooking and don’t build fires. You should always carry water away from the source to clean dishes or bathe then strain out food particles and disperse dirty water. Always use biodegradable soap. Never swim in water pockets; lotion, sunscreen, and residue on skin can quickly pollute water sources that are not free-flowing. Don’t camp within 1/2 mile or in sight of roads or trails. In narrow canyons, try to camp as far away from the hiking route as possible and out of sight. Remember backpack, tent, sleeping bag and mat, ground sheet, food, GPS unit, first aid kit, repair kit, flashlight with extras batteries and bulb, good hiking boots, matches, fuel, signal mirror or whistle, 2 quart water bottle, animal proof food container, sunglasses, sunscreen, wide brimmed hat, and cooking pots and utensils.
Capitol Reef National Park contains nearly a quarter million acres within the slickrock country of southern Utah. The birdlife is diverse because of a variety of habitats such as pinyon-juniper, perennial streams, dry washes and rock cliffs and offers superb bird watching opportunities. Some birds to be seen are Green-backed herons, Northern Harrier, Chukar, Great Horned owls, White-throated swifts, Belted Kingfishers, Western tanagers, Horned larks, and Black-billed Magpie.
Mammals to be found within the park are shrews, assorted bats, ring-tailed cats, minks, raccoons, coyotes, red and gray foxes, mule deer, mountain lions, bobcats, and the rare black bear. These are but a few of the animals to be seen. Buffalo might be seen from a reintroduced herd near Notom Road in the park. Check out the Wildlife Precautions page.
There’s an assortment of fish in the park for the option of a fishing trip. Some include Brown Trout, Rainbow Trout, Brook Trout, Black Bullhead Catfish, and Bluegill. A state fishing license is required.
There is an entrance fee of $5 per vehicle for traveling the park’s Scenic Drive beyond the Fruita campground. Entrance fees are good for seven days from date of purchase.
The Cathedral Campground is located approximately halfway on the Cathedral Valley loop road which traverses Capitol Reef’s Cathedral District, about 36 miles from the Visitor Center. It is open year round with free primitive camping.
Pit toilets, picnic tables, and fire grates are the only facilities available. It has six campsites. There is no water. The campground is at approximately 7000 feet in elevation.
The Cedar Mesa Campground is located approximately 35 miles south of the Visitor Center on the Notom-Bullfrog Road. Visitors should check with the Capitol Reef Visitor Center for road conditions prior to planning an overnight stay. It is open year round and offers free primitive camping. It has five sites, each with a picnic table and fire grate. There is also a pit toilet, but no water is available. Fruita Campground is open all year. The Fruita campground is the only developed campground in the park offering restrooms and water. Surrounded by historic orchards, this developed campground has 70 RV/tent sites, each with a picnic table and grill, but no hook-ups. An RV dump station is located near the entrance to Loop A for those who are RV camping. Heated restrooms are available. A $10 use fee is charged at the Fruita campground.
Back country camping is allowed via backpacking or horseback riding/pack animals. A free backcountry use permit, available at the visitor center, is required for each party with horses or pack animals staying overnight in the park. Backcountry camping is prohibited within one half mile of roads or trailheads. Camping is also prohibited within sight of established roads or trails, or within sight or sound of other campers. Campsites and tethering areas must be a minimum of 300 feet from non-flowing water or archeological sites and at least 100 feet from flowing water. Parties camping with stock must camp in a new location each night. Manure must be scattered before vacating the area. Stock animals may not be ridden or kept overnight in any campground, picnic area, orchard, or roadside pullout.
Arches National Park is 140 miles away. Bryce Canyon National Park is 125 miles away. Canyonlands National Park is 200 miles away. Zion National Park is also 200 miles away. Glen Canyon National Recreation Area is 110 miles away. Goblin Valley State Park is 75 miles away. Anasazi Indian Village State Park is 47 miles away. Escalante State Park is 75 miles away. Kodachrome Basin State Park is 130 miles away. Also around the park are Dixie, Fishlake, and Manti La Sal National Forests.
The nearest major airport is located in Salt Lake City, Utah, approximately 250 miles north of the park. There is no public transportation to the park. Utah
Highway 24 runs east and west through the park. The Scenic Drive (25 mile round-trip) begins at the Visitor Center. Other dirt roads traverse the park both north and south of Highway 24.
Approximate Mileage from the following major cities to Capitol Reef National Park:
By Car:
Salt Lake City, UT- 231.23 miles
Torrey, UT – 10.71 miles
Boulder, UT – 46.15 miles
Provo, UT – 187.86 miles
Bicknell, UT – 18.84 miles
Capitol Reef National Park, HC 70 Box 15, Torrey, UT 84775-9602
Visitor Information 435-425-3791


