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The Visitor Center is open daily all year from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., except for Christmas Day. The North and South Rim Drives and the White House Trail remain open all year. The phone number is 928-674-5500. The Visitor Center is 3 miles (4.8 km) from Route 191 in Chinle, AZ. There is a museum with exhibits that feature the cultural history of the area and restrooms, drinking water, and pay phones.

NOTE: From April through October, the Navajo Nation observes Mountain Daylight Savings Time. The rest of Arizona observes Mountain Standard Time all year.

The monument was authorized April 1, 1931. There was a boundary change on March 1, 1933. The total acreage involved is 83,840, all nonfederal.

Archeologists have found evidence that the canyon has been occupied for nearly twenty centuries. Two distinct groups settled this area although they were centuries apart. The first group to settle in the canyons was the Anasazi or “the ancient ones” as the Navajo call them. There are pieces of pottery, ancient weapons and tools, jewelry, ruined villages and works of art found in kivas and burial sites to mark their passage and living in the canyons.

The Anasazi can be divided into four classifications of cultural successive stages of development in the canyon. The Early Basketmakers were semi-nomadic just starting to settle down from wandering to a life of agriculture. Their homes were not permanent, just poles covered with brush built by their fields during the spring and summer while wintering in the high, dry caves. They were called Basketmakers because of the fine basket weaving found in archeological sites. There have been game nets made of yucca fiber and human hair that measure up to 200 feet in length found intact.

The Modified Basketmakers dwelt in more permanent homes called pit houses. The Anasazi dug circular pits up to 5 feet deep and 20 feet in diameter and covered these with a cone shaped or truncated superstructure along the rim of the pits. Located near the fire pits of these dwellings was a small hole filled with sand called a sipapu. This was the symbolic entrance to the mythological underworld. The present day kivas still have these in them. The pit house is thought to be the precursor to the kiva. The Anasazi now had pottery and the bow and arrow.

The Pueblo Period started around 700 A.D. where the Anasazi had the first village or pueblo which consisted of long rows of flat roofed rooms made of poles and mud. The pit house was now used just for ceremonial purposes. Over the next 300-400 years the people evolved into building structures entirely of stone masonry as well as multi-storied homes for several families. These were built on higher ground possibly due to the periodic flash flooding that occurs in the canyon. Their pottery was becoming more decorative and of finer work. They also began trading ideas and inventions with other Anasazi. The Antelope House Ruin found in Canyon del Muerto revealed the importance of cotton for food and clothing. The people had learned to grow their own and adapt it to their own life styles. There were also new stone tools that allowed them to hew large timbers for constructing large buildings.

The Great Pueblo Period started around 1100 A.D. and saw the Anasazi building the finest massive stone walled pueblos ever built. Tall tower-like structures were built in high cliff dwellings. It is speculated that these were either used for defense or ceremonial kivas. They began trading with Mexico, the Pacific coast and other Anasazi settlements. But during the 14 century, there began a strange exodus of the Canyon and other major Anasazi sites. Many different speculative ideas have been thrown around as to what precipitated this mass exodus, but it is generally thought to have to do with evidence of a severe drought during this time period. Whatever the reason, the Anasazi left the American Southwest.

The next people to find the Canyon and settle in were the Navajo or Dineh, “The People” as they called themselves. They were from the Southern Athapascan who had mingled with the Rio Grande Pueblos and the Spanish. The Navajo learned to borrow the best of other cultures and make them their own. When hostilities with the Spanish caused the Pueblo to flee to the Navajo in the late 1600’s, the increase in people brought forced expansion and in the mid-1700’s, a small group wandered into the Canyon. It provided seclusion, protection of the canyon walls and fertile fields. Although they settled into farming, they continued to raid the Spanish and other nearby Indians. As a result, the Spanish sent a military force in the winter of 1804-05 and in the Canyon of Muerto (Canyon of the Dead); the Spanish trapped the Navajo on a ledge where previously they had been protected from the bows and arrows of other Indians. But the Spanish had rifles and they ended up killing 115 Navajos and taking 33 prisoners. Massacre Cave is considered haunted now to the Navajo.

When America won the Spanish American War, the Navajo continued their raiding tactics. The Navajo had no one person that spoke for the whole people. It was run by a group of wealthy men that had great influence and wished for peace, but unfortunately the less affluent tribesmen felt they could not exist without the benefit of raiding. The accumulation of multiple treaties that were not kept was another military force sent to subdue the people. In 1863, the Navajo were forced on the “Long Walk” to Fort Sumner, NM. The 8,500 Navajo tried to make a life in Bosque Redondo, but could not adapt and many died from white man’s diseases that they had no immunity against. After four long years, the government realized the failure of this move and allowed the Navajo to return to their homeland where their descendants remain today.

The most extensive single site of pueblo ruins can be found in Canyon del Muerto. This includes a three-storied tower house that was typical of the Great Pueblo period. Mummy Cave was partially excavated in the 1920’s. There are many other ruins available to see including slab-lined storage cysts for harvested crops, Yucca Cave, Antelope House Ruin, Rounded Corner Ruin, Standing Cow Ruin and many more. All of these show glimpses into the past of the Indian peoples.

The walls of the canyons are layered with weathered sandstone, known as the De Chelly sandstone. The color is predominately red, but a few areas vary in color. On top of this sandstone is coarse rock known as the Shinarump conglomerate. In some areas the Shinarump is overlain by the Chinle formation, but the rim of the Canyon De Chelly has only the Shinarump conglomerate.

The end of the Cretaceous period brought a great uplifting along what is now the border between northern Arizona and New Mexico. At 30 to 40 miles wide and over 100 miles long, it is known as the “Defiance Uplift” and although it has a gentle slope towards the west, it drops steeply on the eastern side. Streams from the nearby Chiska Mountains ran to the west cutting deeper and deeper into the slowly arching land and formed sheer-walled canyons.

Continuous erosional agents are at work widening the canyons. These include water that seeps into cracks and then freezes, causing huge pieces of canyon wall to slough off; tree roots dislodged slabs of rock; water and weak acid soils dissolving the rock until it was sand again.

One of the most striking of the geologic phenomena is the “desert varnish”. These are the long streams of dark stain the run vertically on the walls everywhere. Typical of desert regions, they look like spilled paint or wet streaks left after a rainstorm. They are caused by chemical deposits although it is still speculated as to exactly how that has happened. The ones that are blue-black are formed by manganese and the red streaks are caused by iron.

The principle tributary canyon in Canyon de Chelly is Canyon del Muerto where Mummy Cave is found. This is where you will find many of the ruins.

Most of the canyon lies in the Upper Sonoran life zone which is characterized by pinon, juniper and sagebrush. The small town of Chinle at 5,500 feet lies at the bottom of this zone. This is the canyon floor where you will see the common reed and the night blooming sacred datura. At nearly 7,000 feet, Spider Rock Overlook is where the first ponderosa pines can be found in the Transition life zone. The next zone is the Canadian where Douglas fir grows in the upper reaches of the canyon on north facing slopes or cracks under the rim. This area is a micro climate because there is less sun so the snow lingers longer.

Other plants to be seen in the Canyon are peach-leaf willows, cottonwoods, peach trees, wildflowers growing in canyon niches, cholla cactus, Rocky Mountain bee plant, prickly pear cactus, yucca, Russian olive and tamarisk. The flowering shrubs include serviceberry, mountain mahogany, cliffrose and false mock orange. These give quite a show on the rim and in the canyon during the spring.

Auto tours, hiking, rock art viewing, interpretive exhibits and talks, horseback riding (by prior arrangement), picnicking and photography are all available activities in the monument. There are also overnight camping trips available.

The biggest environmental impact on the land is the increase in tourism. Vandalism is a problem as well as people just being careless with littering and where they walk. Please be respectful of the canyon so the beauty you see will be there for your children.

It is important to realize that unpredictable weather may adversely affect your visit to Canyon De Chelly National Monument. High winds, rain, and other extreme conditions are frequent in the area during spring and late summer months, while snow and ice make travel hazardous in the winter. In the spring and late summer, flash flood conditions may exist, and will close the canyon floor to some or all motorized guiding services. Hiking and horseback tours may still be available during these closures. Weather conditions are monitored on a daily basis, and inquiries to canyon closures may be directed to the Visitor Center at (928)674-5500 ext. 222.

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Remember that while visiting the national monument you will also be visiting a place where the Navajo people live. Be respectful of their ways and do not disturb them or their animals. Also, it is illegal to remove, deface or litter any archeological ruins or natural formations. Take pictures only when allowed and always ask the people before photographing them.

The commercial tours are available providing conditions are right. The canyon floor can be hazardous with quicksand, occasional flash flooding and deep dry sand that can trap vehicles.

The most prevalent animals seen in the canyon are horses, sheep and cattle. These of course belong to the Navajo. There is, however, wildlife to be seen if you are lucky. Bears, turkeys and deer stay mostly in the upper canyon region and are rarely seen. Badgers, porcupines, squirrels, cottontails, jackrabbits, foxes and coyotes are occasionally seen. There are also snakes, lizards and horned toads. There are many species of birds in the canyon, but many may be heard and never seen. The canyon wren and house finch are such birds that are often heard but not seen. The raven, swallow, pinion jays and hawks are often seen here.

Entrance fees are free. Activity fees vary and generally require a Navajo guide.

To drive on the canyon bottom, a 4-wheel drive vehicle, a Park Service permit and an authorized Navajo guide are required. The fee is $15 an hour for 1 vehicle, $5 an hour for each additional vehicle with a 5-vehicle limit per guide.

Hiking within the canyon requires a Park Service permit and an authorized Navajo guide, except along the 2.5-mile (4-km) White House Ruins Trail. One guide may take up to 15 people for $15 per hour.

Campsites are available at no charge on a first-come, first-served basis year-round. Reservations for group sites of 15 or more people can be made by contacting the Monument. No reservations are accepted for RV groups. Backcountry camping is allowed with an authorized guide.

Nearby sites include Monument Valley Tribal Park, Grand Canyon National Park, Vermillion Cliffs National Monument, Glen Canyon National Recreational Area, Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, Wupatki National Monument, Kaibab National Forest, and Cibola National Forest.

Airports within 3 hours drive-time are Flagstaff AZ and Farmington NM.

The Visitor Center is 3 miles (4.8 km) from Route 191 in Chinle, AZ. No public transportation is available.

Approximate Mileage from the following major cities to Canyon De Chelly National Monument:

By Car:

Prescott, AZ – 307.90 miles

Mesa, AZ – 297.44 miles

Cottonwood, AZ – 281.43 miles

Navajo, AZ – 84.70 miles

Blanding, UT – 124.04 miles

Los Alamos, NM – 325.33 miles

Canyon de Chelly National Monument, PO Box 588, Chinle, AZ 86503
Headquarters 928-674-5500

By Fax 928–674-5507

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