Bering Land Bridge National Preserve Information

Bering Land Bridge National Preserve

Bering Land Bridge National Preserve

 The preserve is located on the Seward Peninsula in northwest Alaska, approximately 500 miles northwest of Anchorage

Bering Land Bridge National Preserve is a vast wilderness area for those who love outdoor adventure. Once connected to Russia, it still retains some of that heritage in the Beringia Days conference that occurs every October where participants from the US and Russia meet to share history and research of this unique land mass. For that adventure vacation, there’s bear hunting, that great Alaska fishing, wildlife viewing, including bird watching, hiking and backpacking trips into the wild countryside, wilderness camping, the stimulating Serpentine Hot Springs, cross-country skiing, snowmobiling, and dog mushing. Check out below for great Bering Land Bridge National Preserve information.

Uniqueness

The Bering Land Bridge National Preserve is one of the most remote national park areas, located on the Seward Peninsula in northwest Alaska. The Preserve is a remnant of the land bridge that connected Asia with North America more than 13,000 years ago. The majority of this land bridge, once thousands of miles wide, now lies beneath the waters of the Chukchi and Bering Seas.

During the glacial epoch this was part of a migration route for people, animals, and plants whenever ocean levels fell enough to expose the land bridge. Archeologists agree that it was across this Bering Land Bridge, also called Beringia, that humans first passed from Asia to populate the Americas. The Preserve’s western boundary lies 42 miles from the Bering Strait and the fishing boundary between the United States and Russia.

The waters of the Bering Strait separate the continents of Asia and North America but they do not divide the people, the resources or the heritage of “Beringia”. An annual international conference sponsored by the National Park Service – “Beringia Days”, takes place in October and highlights the heritage shared by two countries as participants from the United States and Russia meet to share their knowledge and their experiences. The Anchorage Museum of History and Art cosponsor and host the event in their auditorium. Since 1997, Native peoples of Alaska and Chukotka, Russian and American scholars, researches, environmentalists, and representatives of government and non-governmental organization have gathered in October to report on their projects funded by the National Park Service’s Shared Beringian Heritage Program. Other presentations at the conference include topics of interest to the Beringia region and to the proposed Beringian Heritage International Park. The Beringian Days conference is a true international forum at the crossroads of the Eurasian and American continents where people come to share and learn about the past, present, and future of one of the most unique regions in the world – Beringia.

The park is open year-round encompassing 2.8 million acres. Highest visitation is in June and July; lowest in December, January and February. Bering Land Bridge National Preserve commemorates the prehistoric peopling of the Americas from Asia some 13,000 or more years ago. It also preserves important future clues in this great detective story regarding human presence in the Americas.

The Administrative Offices and Interpretive Center are open year round. Located on Front Street in Nome, AK, they are closed on all Federal Holidays. Open hours are from 8:00 AM – 4:30 PM. The Interpretive Center in Nome offers limited exhibits on the Preserve and Beringia, has an interactive educational computer program, films and offers programs and workshops year round. The museum collection of Bering Land Bridge National Preserve contains a range of natural history specimens and cultural artifacts representing several disciplines and specialties such as biology, geology, paleontology, archeology, ethnology, history and archives.

It is currently believed that the ocean levels rose and fell several times in the past. During extended cold periods, tremendous volumes of water are deposited on land in the form of ice and snow, which can cause a corresponding drop in sea level. The last “ice age” occurred around 12-15,000 years ago. During this period the shallow seas now separating Asia from North America near the present day Bering Strait dropped about 300 feet and created a 1,000 mile wide grassland steppe, linking Asia and North America together with the “Bering Land Bridge”. Across this vast steppe, plants and animals traveled in both directions, and humans entered the Americas. The landscape is a treeless expanse of tundra, mountains, and serpentine streams. It is sprinkled with lakes, bare rocky ridges, and low growing willow shrub.

The Bering Land Bridge is as much a part of America’s cultural heritage as Yellowstone or Yosemite, if not more so. The distance across the Bering Strait from Siberia to Alaska’s Seward Peninsula is approximately 55 miles, and for several periods during the Pleistocene Ice Ages the trip could be made entirely on land instead of water. During additional periods, the passage from Siberia to North America could also have been made by small watercraft moving along coastlines.

Whether on land, along Bering Sea coasts or across seasonal ice, humans crossed Beringia from Asia to enter North America about 13,000 or more years ago. Humans were latecomers to this magnificent land mass so widely separated from other continents by vast oceans except near Earth’s poles. Europe, the Middle East, Asia, the Indonesian Archipelago, and Australia already hosted humans. Well dated finds in both the southwestern United States and South America suggest that humans were in these locations about 12,000 years ago. Much closer to the Bering Land Bridge, the arctic coastline was not peopled year-round until about 4,500 years ago.

Artifacts suggest that people lived in both north and South America by some 12,000 years ago; by the time waters of the Bering Strait had become a significant barrier again. However, similarities between peoples of coastal Siberia and coastal Alaska show that the Bering Strait did not prevent contact between their cultures. Similar languages, shared spiritual practices, hunting tool and traditional dwelling similarities, distinctive fish cleaning methods, and meat preservation by fermentation are but a few examples ethnologist cite.

The term Beringia comes from the name of Vitus Bering, a Danish explorer for the Russian czar in the 18th Century. The Bering-Chirikov expedition explored the waters of the North Pacific between Asia and North America. The Bering Strait, which lies between Alaska and Northeast Russia, and Bering Island, in the Commander Islands, are named after him. Today, we use the term to describe a vast area between the Kolyma River in the Russian Far East to the Mackenzie River in the Northwest Territories of Canada. It is a region of worldwide significance for cultural and natural resources. This area also provides an unparalleled opportunity for a comprehensive study of the earth–its unusually intact landforms and biological remains may reveal the character of past climates and the ebb and flow of earth forces at the continents’ edge. As one of the world’s great ancient crossroads, Beringia may hold solutions to puzzles about who the first people were to come to North America, how and when they traveled and how they survived under such harsh climatic conditions.

In the 1800’s fossil bones of mammoths were found on Unalaska Island and the Pribilof Islands. The Pribilof Islands were too far away from land for the animals to have swum over. There was also a significant similarity to the plants and animals of northeast Asia and Alaska. A botanist named Eric Hulten in 1937 had been studying the geographic distribution of living plants and noticed that there was a many closely related plants between the two areas, some not found anywhere else in the world. He hypothesized that there once must have been a land bridge between North America and Asia in the vicinity of the Bering Strait that enabled the spread of these plants. Today, research still goes on to discover the remains of history that will tell the whole story.

About 500 miles northwest of Anchorage, the Preserve occupies about one-third of the Seward Peninsula. The northernmost point, Cape Espenberg, extends just north of the Arctic Circle. The westernmost point lies only 70 miles from Eastern Asia and is near cape Prince of Wales. Bering Land Bridge National Preserve has diverse landscapes, tundra, lakes, rivers, bare rocky ridges, lava fields and mountains. One of the highest peaks in the Preserve is an unnamed peak at 3379 ft above sea level in the Bendeleben Mountains on the southern park boundary. The Preserve is home to many geological wonders like Devil Lake, the largest maar in the world. The Preserve contains extensive lava flows and ash/steam explosion craters now turned to lakes called maars. It also offers dynamic coast and beach environments of barrier islands and low sand dunes. Serpentine Hot Springs nestles in a haunting valley marked by imposing granite spires called tors.

The landscape is a treeless expanse of tundra. Tundra plant communities range from wet tundra on the coast to alpine tundra on mountains in and near the Preserve. It is sprinkled with low growing willow shrub. In late-June cotton grass covers the tundra as far as the eye can see. More than 400 species of plants have been listed in the Preserve. Many evolved in ancient Beringia and spread into Asia or northern Canada and the United States.

The preserve offers camping, hiking, backpacking, exploration, nature observation, photography to grab that tremendous outdoor photo, hunting, fishing and costal boating. State licenses are required. Winter offers opportunities for snowmobiling, dog sledding, and some cross-country skiing. Explore the remains of the gold rush era, evidence of ancient Inuit life, and visit neighboring villages and learn about traditional subsistence living and historic reindeer herding. The scenery offers extensive lava flows, ash/steam explosion craters now turned into lakes called maars, dynamic coast and beach environments of barrier islands and low sand dunes. The Serpentine Hot Springs which lie in a haunting valley marked by imposing granite spires called tors is known throughout the Seward Peninsula as a place of healing and relaxation, as well as beauty. It is the area associated with the training of shamans, the traditional spiritual leaders of the Inupiat.

There are many factors that affect the Alaskan tundra. Mechanized assistance to reindeer herding has its price. Vezdehodi, tank-like tracked vehicles used to supply reindeer camps in Chukotka, destroy tundra and leave many long-term scars on the land when used on bare tundra in summer.

Another threat to the tundra, particularly to lichens on which caribou and reindeer depend, comes from atmospheric pollution generated locally and in distant regions.

Because of their sheer numbers, caribou and reindeer can have considerable effects on their habitat. For instance, during the 1960′s the number of reindeer on the Chukotsk Peninsula rose to 100,000, exceeding the capacity of the winter range. The essential lichens were seriously overgrazed and have not fully recovered. The present population is about 45,000.

Domesticated herds have displaced Chukotkan caribou. The wild animals have difficulty subsisting in areas already grazed by reindeer. In addition, herders tend to shoot caribou present near their herds, since caribou compete with reindeer for forage and make herding difficult. Still, there are signs of recent increases in the caribou population of western Chukotka.

Other effects of reindeer herding are not as obvious. Herds can threaten ground-nesting birds by trampling nests and eggs, and even eating eggs. Potential predators like wolves are often killed to protect the herds.

Other human activities, including human-caused tundra fires, can degrade reindeer/caribou habitat. To the west of the Chukotsk Peninsula vast land areas have been destroyed by large-scale placer mining for gold. The areas are so large that reindeer may be unable to cross them. Until now the peninsula has been spared but one mine has begun operating in its southwest part. Mining and oil development activities also threaten to disrupt and fragment the habitat of Alaska’s caribou.

Summer temperatures on the coast are usually in the low 50′s ° F, with mid 60′s to 70′s and an occasional 80′s or 90′s in the interior. Average January lows are -15 ° F on the coast and -50 ° F in the interior. Winds average 8 to 12 mph, but 50 to 70 mph winds commonly accompany storms and produce extremely low and dangerous chill factors. Averages are meaningless; summer can see snow, near freezing temperatures, and long periods of clouds, wind, and rain. Summer days are long, almost without darkness; winter days are short, with only a few hours of light. Exposure and hypothermia are real threats.

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Serpentine Hot Springs is remote and potential dangers exist. The area is subject to abrupt and sometimes severe weather changes. Sudden storms can change the pastoral scene into a rugged and hostile environment. The temperature of the water can range from 140 – 170 ° F. Winter ice builds up around the bathhouse, making footing treacherous. Alcohol increases the danger of slipping on ice. It can impair the body’s ability to respond appropriately to heat or cold, increasing the possibility of scalding or hypothermia. Remember, medical attention can be days, or even weeks away. Serpentine Hot Springs has always had a casual, relaxed, and sharing atmosphere. Each person shared responsibility of caring for the facilities and left the area in a condition which contributed to the next person’s enjoyment. The National Park Service encourages newcomers to respect this tradition. The reward will be a truly unique and memorable experience.

Typically you are all on your own in the Preserve, with few if any links to the outside world. Hiking can be difficult and strenuous, especially across tussock tundra. You must be prepared for varied and changing weather conditions. Using this backpacking checklist will help you have a more enjoyable wilderness adventure. Make sure all equipment and clothing is of good quality. Have good hiking shoes and warm, layered clothing appropriate for the season. Use only durable tested equipment and be experienced in its use before you set out. Use good survival equipment: tent with rainfly (able to withstand high winds), backpack, compass, GSP system, water-proof gear, sunglasses, sunscreen, insect repellent, plastic bag to carry out garbage and to keep equipment dry, warm sleeping bag and mat, toilet kit (minimize the scents), terrain map, signal mirror, camp stove, fuel, matches, extra food, bear-proof container, cook pots and utensils, flashlight with extra batteries and bulbs, appropriate headwear, repair kit, collapsible water container, multiuse tool, knife, and water or tablets for treating water. Rain gear is often needed. Mosquitoes and other biting insects are common in the summer. Headnets and repellent are recommended.

Tundra and river bars are normally used for camping. Caution is required when using river bars. Rivers and their tributaries are commonly subject to flash flooding, and the water can rise and fall dramatically in a short period of time. Camp only where escape routes are available to safe, higher ground. Keep all gear well above the river level and secure all floatable items.

To help prevent or aid in the possibility if you do get lost, follow these tips. While hiking, take careful note of the direction you’re traveling, of prominent landmarks and approximate distances you have walked in the wilderness. Frequently ask yourself if you could find your way back under conditions of low clouds, rain or snow. Take careful compass bearings on the next day’s proposed route before retiring. Inform all your party of the planned route, campsite, and general direction of travel in the event you become separated. If you become lost, don’t panic; stop and plan carefully. If you become separated from your group, stay where you are or move a short distance to the point where you were last in contact with the group. If alone, climb high to look for familiar landmarks. If you find no familiar landmarks or rivers, stay in one place and remain in the open. Bright signals or objects placed in sequence of three are widely recognized as distress signs.

If you encounter an injured or ill person, remain calm. Quickly give whatever first-aid is required to stabilize the person and protect them from the elements. It may be some time before assistance arrives. Mark where they are located with a brightly colored material, in the open, so the person can be located from the air. Write down the nature of the injury/illness; condition and name, home address, phone number, sex and age of the person; what rescue equipment will be needed; exact location and type of terrain; and any information about a Medic-Alert tag, bracelet, or wallet card with ID number that the person may have. Then, quickly go or send for help. If you are injured or ill, conserve your energy and body heat. Stay by a water supply and remain calm, think, plan, and organize.

Arctic summers often present conditions in which hypothermia is a danger: low air temperatures, cold river waters, and frequent rain and snow showers. Exposure to cool temperatures, wet clothing, wet sleeping gear and wind, in combination with physical exhaustion, can cause even the strongest hiker to lose heat faster than he/she can produce it, resulting in a decline in core body temperature. Be aware that if you get wet, hypothermia is likely to follow.

Early symptoms of hypothermia include slurred speech, trembling, exhaustion, stumbling and impaired judgment. The objective of treatment is to keep warm and dry. Stop hiking and find a warm, dry spot, out of the wind, rain or cold. Remove wet garments and add layers of dry, warm clothing. Drink warm liquids (not alcohol). In more advanced cases, remove clothing and climb into a dry sleeping bag, stay awake, and share body heat with others. Remember-advanced hypothermia is difficult to treat properly, creating a very serious situation.

Prevention is always the best treatment, and that means careful planning and preparation. Take plenty of warm clothes, and enough food, water, clothing and equipment for at least one extra day. Take at least one complete change of warm cloths in case one gets wet. Pack clothes, sleeping bags and sleeping pads in waterproof bags. Eat high calorie foods. Dress in layers and remove outer layers to ventilate when you start to sweat. Make sure all members of your party are aware of the symptoms of hypothermia and to look out for each other.

The use of off-the-road vehicles is prohibited except for snowmobiles.

Subsistence hunting, fishing, trapping, and collecting of wild plants sustain village cultures and are protected by law. Do not disturb cabins, camps, drying racks, wood supplies, boats, fish nets, or other equipment, even if they look abandoned. Artifacts, sites, structures, and other archaeological and historical resources are protected by federal law. Do not disturb them. Please report such findings to a park ranger.

The Seward Peninsula boasts a rich and diverse bird life. More than 170 known species, from every continent in the world, include such seabirds as gulls, murres, and kittiwakes; such migrating and nesting waterfowl as ducks, swans, and geese; such birds of prey as hawks, eagles, falcons, and owls; and many songbirds of tundra and uplands. At the crossroads of the Asiatic-North American flyway, this area offers rare opportunities to observe several Old World species for bird watching enthusiasts.

Mammals include muskox, grizzly bears, moose, reindeer, wolves, wolverines, Arctic and Red foxes, and other smaller species. Although they are called by different names in North America, wild caribou and domestic reindeer are considered to be a single species throughout the world. Alaskan caribou are clove-brown with a white neck and rump. Chukotkan reindeer, as a result of domestication, have varied pelt combinations of brown, grey, black and white in the same herd. Reindeer from Siberia were introduced here in 1891 as a meat source to replace native caribou that seem to have disappeared earlier in the century. Reindeer herding and husbandry is a small but thriving industry for Eskimo herdsmen. In winter, polar bears frequent the coastline and may come ashore. Marine mammals occasionally seen along the coast include several species of seals, walrus, and beluga and bowhead whales. Fish in area rivers, streams, and lakes include several species of salmon, grayling, char, whitefish, and pike, allowing for a great fishing trip.

Moose immigrated onto the Seward Peninsula in the late 1940′s. By the 1960′s, the population was well established and increasing each year. Although numbers have apparently stabilized over most of the region, they are still increasing in the western part of the Preserve where habitat for them is limited. The moose is the largest animal in the Preserve, weighing more than most bears and all other species. Height at the shoulders range between 6 ½ -7 ½ feet (1.95-2.25 m), and they are 6 ¾ -9 feet (2.06-2.79 m) long. Females weigh 700-1,000 pounds (315-495 kg), while males weigh 900-1,400 pounds (405-630 kg). Males have massive flattened antlers usually 4-5 feet (1.2-1.5 m) wide, but can be as big as 6 ¾ feet (206 cm). This largest member of the deer family is frequently seen at Serpentine Hot Springs, and on willow covered hillsides during the summer. They move to stream bottoms in winter to take advantage of taller willow species used for food and cut banks used for shelter from the wind. Their primary predators within the Preserve are brown (grizzly) bears and wolves.

Grizzly bears are also called brown bears, and are found throughout the Preserve. Height at the shoulders is about 4 ½ feet (1.3 m), 6-7 feet (1.8-2.13 m), they weigh between 323-1,496 pounds (147-680 kg) and when standing, measure up to 9 feet (2.7 m). They have a characteristically large hump (created by muscle mass) over the bear’s shoulders. The bears in the preserve are not the largest-usually only up to 500 pounds. Bears are actively hunted throughout the region and tend to be shy around people. Most visitors to the region will never see a bear. There are no black bears in or near the Preserve. Brown/grizzly bears are found from the islands of southeastern Alaska to the arctic. Black bears inhabit most of Alaska’s forests. Polar bears frequent the pack ice and tundra of extreme northern and western Alaska. In winter, polar bears frequent the coastline and may come ashore.

Bears, moose, and other wildlife can prove deadly, especially if surprised or if their young seem threatened. Respect these animals and keep a safe distance.

Bears are curious, intelligent and potentially dangerous animals, but undue fear of bears can endanger both bears and people. Many bears are killed each year by people who are afraid of them. Respecting bears and learning proper behavior in their territory will help so that if you encounter a bear, neither of you will suffer needlessly from the experience. Most bears tend to avoid people. In most cases, if you give a bear the opportunity to do the right thing, it will. Many bears live in Alaska and many people enjoy the outdoors, but surprisingly few people even see bears. Only a tiny percentage of those few are ever threatened by a bear.

Firearms should never be used as an alternative to common-sense approaches to bear encounters. If you are inexperienced with a firearm in emergency situations, you are more likely to be injured by a gun than a bear. It is illegal to carry firearms in some of Alaska’s national parks, so check before you go. A .300-Magnum rifle or a 12-gauge shotgun with rifled slugs are appropriate weapons if you have to shoot a bear. Heavy handguns such as a .44-Magnum may be inadequate in emergency situations, especially in untrained hands. State law allows a bear to be shot in self-defense if you did not provoke the attack and if there is no alternative, but the hide and skull must be salvaged and turned over to the authorities. Also keep in mind that bears behave differently in different areas so it is always best to check with the rangers about the area you will be staying in. See the Wildlife Precaution page for further information.

There is no fee for this park.

Most camping is backcountry wilderness and primitive. Camping is relatively unrestricted, with no formal campsites and no developed water, power, or sanitation facilities. There are six widely shattered shelter cabins in the preserve used mostly for emergency winter use. Cottonwood Shelter Cabin, Ear Mountain Shelter Cabin, Goodhope, Grayling Creek, Kividlo Shelter Cabin, and Nuluk are open year round. Serpentine Hot Springs is open year-round and is a bunkhouse-style cabin that sleeps 15 to 20 people in two sections. A wooden tub for bathing is enclosed in a small bathhouse which is fed by the waters of the hot spring. All cabins are unreserved and bush etiquette may require sharing space with strangers. Serpentine Hot Springs has always had a casual, relaxed, and sharing atmosphere. Each person shared responsibility of caring for the facilities and left the area in a condition which contributed to the next person’s enjoyment. The National Park Service encourages newcomers to respect this tradition.

Cape Krusenstern National Monument, Kobuk Valley National Park, Noatak National Preserve, Selawik National Wildlife Refuge, Koyukuk N.W.R., Innoko N.W.R., and Yukon Delta N.W.R. are all nearby.

The nearest city for commercial airlines is Nome, AK. The Preserve is vast and access is limited. It sprawls across 2.7 million acres of the Seward Peninsula in northwest Alaska. There are no roads that lead directly into it, and summer access is usually by bush planes and small boats. Winter access is mostly by small planes on skis, by snow machine, or by dog sleds.

National Park Service, P.O. Box 220, Nome, AK 99762
or
National Park Service, P.O. Box 1029, Kotzebue, 99752
Visitor Information (907) 443-2522
Headquarters (907) 442-3890

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  1. May 10th, 2010 at 06:04 | #1

    HOW BIG IS BERING LAND BRIDGE

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