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The Albright Visitor Center and Museum (open 365 days a year) is located at Mammoth Hot Springs, five miles inside the North Entrance and at the northwest corner of the upper loop of the Grand Loop Road. Winter hours are 9:00 am to 5:00 pm. After late May, the hours are 8:00 am to 7:00 pm. The visitor center houses a museum with its major theme being history: Native Americans (pre-1800), the mountain men (1807-1840), early exploration (1869-1871), the Army days, and early National Park Service. In early 1998, new exhibits with a predator-prey theme were installed upstairs. There is a theater in the visitor center where Park Rangers show film and video presentations every half hour in summer and on request in winter. Films include The Challenge of Yellowstone (1979, 25 min) on the history of Yellowstone and the evolution of the national park idea and Thomas “Yellowstone” Moran (1997, 12 min) on Moran’s contribution toward the establishment of Yellowstone National Park and are shown year-round.

The Grant Visitor Center is located on the shore of the West Thumb of Yellowstone Lake one mile off of the main park road at Grant Village Junction. It is open daily 8:00 am to 7:00 pm late May through September. The visitor center and development are named for President Ulysses S. Grant, eighteenth president of the United States, who signed the bill creating Yellowstone National Park in 1872. The facility was constructed during the 1970s and, along with the entire Grant development, was and is a controversial Yellowstone development due to its location in prime grizzly bear habitat (the area is the location of several major cutthroat trout spawning streams). The visitor center hosts an exhibit that interprets fire’s role in the environment, using the fires of 1988 as the example. The movie The Unfinished Song is shown on a regular schedule throughout the summer months. The Yellowstone Association has a sales area in the lobby of the visitor center.

The Canyon Visitor Center is open daily late May through early October from 8:00 am – 7:00 pm. The Canyon Visitor Center is located 1/8 mile southeast of Canyon Junction in the Canyon Village complex. An exhibit on the Yellowstone Bison is the result of a cooperative effort between Yellowstone National Park and the Buffalo Bill Historical Center in Cody, Wyoming. The exhibit deals with the natural history of bison and the bison as a symbol of wildness; it also includes information on the current bison management controversy. Seasonally you will find restrooms, exhibits, book sales, backcountry permits, non-motorized boat permits, and first-aid assistance, fishing permits, and nearby gas, food, lodging, and general store.

The Old Faithful Visitor Center is open daily 9:00 am – 5:00 pm mid April and 8:00 am – 7:00 pm starting after the end of May through early November. It is located on the Grand Loop Road 16 miles south of Madison Junction and located only 200 yards from Old Faithful Geyser. Evening ranger-led programs are presented here during the summer and the winter seasons. Restrooms, exhibits, book sales, backcountry permits, fishing permits, and nearby gas, food, lodging, and general store are available seasonally.

The Museum of the National Park Ranger is housed in the Norris Soldier Station, located at the entrance to Norris Campground. The Norris Soldier Station (Museum of the National Park Ranger) was an outlying station for soldiers to patrol and watch over Norris Geyser Basin. It was among the longest occupied stations in the park. A prior structure was built in 1886, replaced after fire in 1897, and modified in 1908. After the Army years, the building was used as a Ranger Station and residence until the 1959 earthquake caused structural damage. The building was restored in 1991. It is open daily from 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM beginning in the end of May. Exhibits depict the development of the park ranger profession from its roots in the military traditions through early rangers and to the present array of NPS staff specialized duties. A small auditorium shows a laser-disc production of the 25-minute movie, “An American Legacy,” which tells the story of the development of the National Park Service. There is no Yellowstone Association sales outlet in this museum. The staffing is done primarily by retired National Park Service employees who volunteer for short periods of time. Many of these employees retired as superintendents, chief rangers, regional directors, and from various positions in the Washington office. Restrooms are located at the nearby campground.

The Norris Geyser Basin Museum is one of the park’s original trailside museums built in 1929-30. It has always been a museum. It is an outstanding example of a stone-and-log architecture that became a prototype for park buildings throughout the country known as “parkitecture”. The Norris Geyser Basin Museum is located 1/4 mile east of Norris Junction just off the Grand Loop Road. It is National Historic Landmark. It is open daily 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM starting in late May. New exhibits on geothermal geology, Norris Geyser Basin features, and life in thermal areas were installed in 1995. These exhibits replaced old ones from the 1960s with similar subject matter. There is no auditorium in this building, and it consists of two wings separated by an open-air breezeway. An information desk in the breezeway is staffed by National Park Service interpreters. An adjacent old restroom facility of matching architectural style houses a Yellowstone Association bookstore that are open seasonally.

The Fishing Bridge Museum and Visitor Center is located one mile off the Grand Loop Road on the East Entrance Road. It is open seasonally starting in late May from 8:00 AM to 7:00 PM through September. The Fishing Bridge Museum was completed in 1931. Built of native rock and stone, it appears to rise out of a rock outcrop. The structure was built to reflect the beauty of nature itself. Approaching from the parking lot, it was designed so that one could see through the building to Yellowstone Lake, hence the notion of focusing on the natural resource that the building was created to interpret. It would eventually become a prototype of rustic architecture in parks all over the nation and was declared a National Historic Landmark in 1987. When automobiles replaced stagecoaches as the main means of transportation through the park, people were no longer accompanied by a guide. The Museum was built as a “Trailside Museum,” allowing visitors to obtain information about Yellowstone on their own. The historic bird specimens (by Carl Russell) were installed in 1931 and provide a good overview of the birds of Yellowstone. Other taxidermied animals include a grizzly sow and two cubs (formerly from the Canyon Visitor Center) and a family of river otters.

West Yellowstone Visitor Information Center is open all year Monday-Friday 8:00 am – 5:00 pm. It is located in the West Yellowstone Chamber of Commerce Building at the corner of Yellowstone Avenue and Canyon Street in West Yellowstone, Montana. Information and publications can be obtained here. Accessible restrooms, brochures and park information, fishing permits, and nearby activities, food, fuel, lodging, and stores can be found.

Madison Information Station is open daily beginning early June from 9:00 am – 5:00 pm. It is located just south of Madison Junction in the Madison Picnic Area. Built in 1929 – 1930, it is a National Historic Landmark. It is built from wood and stone materials. The building sits near the site of the legendary campfire circle of the Washburn-Langford-Doane Expedition. Although no evidence can confirm the authenticity of this tale, the legend gives us a strong theme for discussion of the establishment of Yellowstone National Park. In previous years, this building has been used as a museum, has housed the Arts Yellowstone program, and has sat empty and abandoned. It began its new life as an information station and Yellowstone Association bookstore during the summer of 1995. Information and orientation is provided. Facilities include restrooms adjacent to the parking area, a small exhibit area, and book sales. A wayside exhibit just outside the building commemorates the “campfire story,” and a commemorative plaque honors Stephen T. Mather.

There are several Ranger Stations for backcountry use. Bridge Bay Backcountry Office is located south of Lake Village on the Grand Loop Road, adjacent to Yellowstone Lake. It is open seasonally on a variable schedule. Backcountry, fishing, and boating permits are available, as well as general park information.

Grant Village Backcountry Office is located 0.75 miles from the Grant Village Junction on the road to Grant Village. It is open seasonally on a variable schedule. The office is near the gas station and Hamilton Store. Backcountry, fishing, and boat permits are available. Food, lodging, and a general store are available seasonally.

Lake Backcountry Office is located in the Lake Village Area on the Grand Loop Road approximately 1.5 miles south of Fishing Bridge Junction. It is open seasonally with a variable schedule. Backcountry, fishing, and boating permits are available as well as general park information. You will also find a nearby clinic, gas, food, lodging, and general store.

Mammoth Backcountry Office is located in the Albright Visitor Center at Mammoth Hot Springs, five miles south of the North Entrance and at the northwest corner of the upper loop of the Grand Loop Road. Backcountry permits, non-motorized boating permits, fishing permits, and general information are available. Facilities include restrooms, exhibits, book sales, and (seasonally) nearby gas, food, lodging, and general store.

The Old Faithful Backcountry Office is located on the Grand Loop Road 16 miles south of Madison Junction across the west parking lot from the Old Faithful Visitor Center. It is open seasonally, summer and winter, on a variable schedule. Backcountry permits, fishing permits, non-motorized boating permits, and first aid are available. Seasonally there are nearby restrooms, exhibits, book sales, gas, food, lodging, and general store.

Tower Backcountry Office is located immediately west of Tower Junction. Open seasonally on a variable schedule, the Tower Ranger Station issues backcountry permits, fishing permits and provides general park information. There are nearby restrooms and seasonal gas, food, and lodging.

West Thumb Information Station is located just east of the junction of the Old Faithful / South Entrance Road and the Bridge Bay / Fishing Bridge / Lake Road,. in the West Thumb Geyser Basin area on the shore of Yellowstone Lake. It is open late May 9:00 am – 5:00 pm. Park information and small bookstore are available with nearby restrooms.

In 1872 a country that had not yet seen its first centennial established Yellowstone as the first national park in the world. President Ulysses S. Grant signed a law declaring that Yellowstone would forever be “dedicated and set apart as a public park or pleasuring ground for the benefit and enjoyment of the people.” Yellowstone National Park, encompassing 2.2 million acres, is one of America’s premier wilderness areas. Most of the park is backcountry and managed as wilderness.

Digs by the Midwest Archaeological Center in Norris and Madison campgrounds reveal that people have camped in these areas for at least 10,000 years. Campfire remnants, obsidian flakes, and chips and bone fragments show that these campgrounds have always been favorites! Other such sites abound throughout the Norris area, particularly along the Solfatara Trail that connects Norris Campground with the Obsidian Cliff area.

From about 11,000 years ago to the very recent past, many groups of Native Americans used the park as their homes, hunting grounds, and transportation routes. These traditional uses of Yellowstone lands continued until a little over 200 years ago when the first people of European descent found their way into the park. In the park, Paleoindian people hunted bison, bighorn sheep, rabbits, deer, and bear. While people probably ate berries and fresh greens, there is little evidence at any time for the cooking and processing of plants as part of the diet.

The earliest evidence of humans living in Yellowstone is a Clovis point that was found near Corwin Springs, 12 miles north of the park. This artifact is made from Obsidian Cliff obsidian that is found only in Yellowstone National Park. We know the obsidian came from Obsidian Cliff in the park because it has been “sourced” to Obsidian Cliff. Nevertheless, each year we find evidence of new obsidian sources for stone tools.

The next people or culture in western North America is known as Folsom. An Obsidian Cliff obsidian Folsom point dating about 10,900 years ago was discovered on the Bridger-Teton National Forest south of the park. A second Obsidian Cliff Folsom point was found about 15 miles northwest of the park. As time goes on, the number of distinctive point types (assumed to equal cultures), such as Agate Basin and Hell Gap dating to about 10,000 years ago, increase and these are taken as evidence of an increasing population.

While there are Agate Basin and Hell Gap points found on the ground’s surface in the park, the earliest intact cultural deposits are related to the Cody Complex which dates 9,400-9,600 years ago. The Cody Complex is named for a Bison antiquus kill site near Cody Wyoming. It is believed that these Paleoindians visited the park during the summer to hunt and while they were here, they collected obsidian for tools. The Osprey Beach site is a 9,400 year old camp at nearly 7,300 feet where several families spent time on Yellowstone Lake repairing and manufacturing tools. They used blocks of local sandstone to shape their wooden shafts. The large number of obsidian tools found Osprey Beach is changing the view that Paleoindians did not use obsidian, which had been thought by some archeologists to be too brittle a stone from which to make these lanceolate points.

Campsites of the Middle and Late Archaic Periods are often large basecamps where a whole families or groups of families appear to have stayed in the park during the summer, spending significant time at these locations, and carrying out a variety of activities including manufacturing and repairing tools, tanning hides, and cooking. These activities are represented by broken and whole tools, flakes from tool maintenance, fire-cracked rock and hearths, charcoal, and animal bones.

In contrast, Late Prehistoric sites after A.D. 1100 are rare and often contain only a few scraps indicative of perhaps an overnight stay. We know people were still coming to the park because Obsidian Cliff obsidian is being found in sites outside the park but our interpretation is that now that instead of family groups, work parties were dispatched to carry out specific tasks such as obtaining obsidian, hunting bighorn sheep, or to collect other materials (perhaps clay from thermal areas) that could not be obtained elsewhere.

The Protohistoric Period indicates the brief time when European manufactured goods such as beads, axes, knives, and kettles are traded into an area but before there are any historic records. The times at which the protohistoric and historic periods begin differ from geographical region to the next. In the Yellowstone National Park area, the historic period begins about A.D. 1805 when Lewis and Clark pass by the northern portion of the park. Although there are earlier historic records, they are very rare. Protohistoric/historic period Native American sites are similarly rare in the park. The most plentiful are the historic records for wickiups, or wooden tipis, which were described as being numerous. Unfortunately, the wickiups were made from perishable organic materials and these structures have collapsed.

The Bannock Trail, once used by Native Americans to access the buffalo plains east of the park from the Snake River plains in Idaho, was extensively used from approximately 1840 to 1876. A lengthy portion of the trail extends through the Tower District from the Blacktail Plateau (closely paralleling or actually covered by the existing road) to where it crosses the Yellowstone River at the Bannock Ford upstream from Tower Creek. From the river, the trail’s main fork ascends the Lamar River splitting at Soda Butte Creek. From there, one fork ascends the creek before leaving the park. Traces of the trail can still be plainly seen in various locations, particularly on the Blacktail Plateau and at the Lamar-Soda Butte confluence.

Lying in the Snake River watershed west of Lewis Lake and south of Yellowstone Lake, Heart Lake was named sometime before 1871 for Hart Hunney, an early hunter. The name does not refer to the heart-like shape of the lake. During the 1890s, historian Hiram Chittenden learned from Richard “Beaver Dick” Leigh, one of Hunney’s cronies, about the naming of the lake. Evidently, Capt. John W. Barlow (see Barlow Peak), who explored Yellowstone in 1871, made the incorrect connection between the lake’s name and its shape. Chittenden wrote to Barlow, who could recall nothing about the naming, but Leigh “was so positive and gave so much detail” that Chittenden concluded that he was right. Chittenden petitioned Arnold Hague of the USGS to change the spelling back to “Hart Lake,” but Hague refused, convinced the shape of the lake determined the name.

As for Hart Hunney, Leigh said that Hunney operated in the vicinity of Heart Lake between 1840 and 1850 and died in a fight with Crow Indians in 1852. Chittenden thought it was possible that Hunney was one of Capt. Benjamin Bonneville’s men.

In 1869, the first scientific expedition to explore the Yellowstone area, the Folsom- Cook-Peterson Expedition, visited the West Thumb Geyser Basin. David Folsom described the area as follows: “Among these were springs differing from any we had previously seen. They were situated along the shore for a distance of two miles, extending back from it about five hundred yards and into the lake perhaps as many feet. There were several hundred springs here, varying in size from miniature fountains to pools or wells seventy-five feet in diameter and of great depth. The water had a pale violet tinge, and was very clear, enabling us to discern small objects fifty or sixty feet below the surface. A small cluster of mud springs near by claimed our attention. These were filled with mud, resembling thick paint of the finest quality, differing in color from pure white to the various shades of yellow, pink, red and violet. During the afternoon they threw mud to the height of fifteen feet. . .”

Nez Perce Creek Wayside exhibit tells the story of the flight of the Nez Perce through Yellowstone in 1877. A band of 700 men, women, and children entered the park on the evening of August 23rd, fleeing 600 Army regulars commanded by General O.O. Howard. The Nez Perce had been told to leave their homeland and move to a reservation. They fled their ancestral home in the Wallowa Valley in northeastern Oregon on June 17, 1877, and by the time they entered the park, several battles, including a fight at Big Hole (another NPS site), had occurred. During the two weeks they were in the park, the Nez Perce bumped into all 25 known people visiting the new park at that time, some more than once. Camps were plundered, hostages taken, and several people were killed or wounded.

After leaving the park, the Nez Perce tried reaching the Canadian border but were stopped by General Nelson Miles, who had reinforced General Howard’s command. Some Nez Perce were able to slip into Canada, but the remaining 350 tribal members led by Chief Joseph surrendered to General Miles. This is where Chief Joseph gave his famous speech, “I will fight no more forever.” The 1,700-mile flight that included Yellowstone National Park had come to an end. Today, Nez Perce Creek and the nearby wayside exhibit are reminders of their visit.

All of the red-roofed, many-chimney buildings in the Mammoth area are part of historic Fort Yellowstone. Beginning in 1886, after 14 years of poor civilian management of the park, the Cavalry was called upon to manage the park’s resources and visitors. Because the Cavalry only expected to be here a short while, they built a temporary post near the base of the Terraces called Camp Sheridan. After five cold, harsh winters, they realized that their stay in the park was going to be longer than expected, so they built Fort Yellowstone, a permanent post. In 1891, the first building to be constructed was the guard house because it directly coincided with the Cavalry’s mission–protection and management. There were three stages of construction at Fort Yellowstone. The first set of clapboard buildings were built in 1891, the second set in 1897 as the Fort expanded to a two-troop fort, and, finally, the stone buildings were built in 1909 making the fort’s capacity 400 men or four troops. By 1916, the National Park Service was established, and the Cavalry gave control of Yellowstone back to the civilians. After a short time away, the Cavalry returned in 1917 and finished their duty completely in 1918. Since that time, historic Fort Yellowstone has been Yellowstone’s headquarters.

Mt. Everts was named for explorer Truman Everts of the 1870 Washburn Expedition who became separated from his camping buddies, lost his glasses, lost his horse, and spent the next 37 days starving and freezing and hallucinating as he made his way through the untracked and inhospitable wilderness. Upon rescue, he was, according to his rescuers, within but a few hours of death. Everts never made it quite as far as Mt. Everts. He was found near the “Cut” on the Blacktail Plateau Drive and was mistaken for a black bear and nearly shot. His story, which he later published in Scribner’s Monthly Magazine, remains one of Yellowstone’s best known, lost-in-the-wilderness stories.

Bunsen Peak and the “Bunsen burner” were both named for the German physicist, Robert Wilhelm Bunsen. Although most people are familiar with the “Bunsen burner,” few people know why his students gave the burner that name. He was involved in pioneering research about geysers, and a “Bunsen burner” has a resemblance to a geyser. His theory on geysers was published in the 1800s, and it is still believed to be accurate. Bunsen Peak is 8,564 feet high (2,612 meters). The peak is also interesting because it burned in the 1880s and then again in 1988. A series of old photos show the creep of trees up Bunsen following the 1880 fires, and the new patterns of open space created by the fires of 1988.

In 1891, the first building to be constructed was the guard house because it directly coincided with the Cavalry’s mission–protection and management. There were three stages of construction at Fort Yellowstone. The first set of clapboard buildings were built in 1891, the second set in 1897 as the Fort expanded to a two-troop fort, and, finally, the stone buildings were built in 1909 making the fort’s capacity 400 men or four troops. By 1916, the National Park Service was established, and the Cavalry gave control of Yellowstone back to the civilians. After a short time away, the Cavalry returned in 1917 and finished their duty completely in 1918. Since that time, historic Fort Yellowstone has been Yellowstone’s headquarters.

Lower Hamilton Store was built in 1897, and as such is the oldest structure in the Old Faithful area still in use. The “knotty pine” porch is a popular resting place for visitors, providing a great view of Geyser Hill. (The oldest building at Old Faithful was built as a photo studio in 1897 for F. Jay Haynes. Originally located 700 feet southwest of Beehive Geyser and about 350 feet northwest of the front of the Old Faithful Inn, it now stands near the intersection of the Grand Loop Road and the fire lane, near the crosswalk.)

The buildings comprising historic Lake Village are figuratively, and literally in some cases, landmarks in the history of the Yellowstone story. Built on a site long known as a meeting place for Indians, trappers, and mountain men, the Lake Yellowstone Hotel was ready to serve guests in 1891. At that time, it was not particularly distinctive, resembling any other railroad hotel financed by the Northern Pacific Railroad.

The first major entrance for Yellowstone was at the north boundary. In 1903, the railway finally came to Gardiner, and people entered through an enormous stone archway. Robert Reamer, a famous architect in Yellowstone, designed the immense stone arch for coaches to travel through on their way into the park. At the time of the arch’s construction, President Theodore Roosevelt was visiting the park. He consequently placed the cornerstone for the arch, which then took his name. The top of the Roosevelt Arch is inscribed with “For the benefit and enjoyment of the people,” which is from the Organic Act of 1872, the enabling legislation for Yellowstone National Park.

Also in 1903, the architect of the Old Faithful Inn, Robert Reamer, masterminded the renovation of the Hotel, designing the ionic columns, extending the roof in three places, and adding the 15 false balconies, which prompted it to be known for several years as the “Lake Colonial Hotel.” A number of further changes by 1929, including the addition of the dining room, porte-cochere (portico), and sunroom as well as the refurbishing of the interior created the gracious landmark we see today.

By the 1970s, the Hotel had fallen into serious disrepair. In 1981, the National Park Service and the park concessioner, TW Recreational Services, embarked upon a ten-year project to restore the Lake Hotel in appearance to its days of glory in the 1920s. The work was finished for the celebration of the hotel’s centennial in 1991. The Hotel was placed on the National Register of Historic Places that year. The hotel is currently operated by Xanterra Parks & Resorts.

Built during the winter of 1903-04, the Old Faithful Inn was designed by Robert C. Reamer, who wanted the asymmetry of the building to reflect the chaos of nature. The lobby of the hotel features a 65-foot ceiling, a massive rhyolite fireplace, and railings made of contorted lodgepole pine. Wings were added to the hotel in 1915 and 1927, and today there are 327 rooms available to guests in this National Historic Landmark. The inn is currently operated by Xanterra Parks & Resorts.

Unlike the Inn, the current Old Faithful Lodge is a result of numerous changes dating back to the early days of tent camps provided by companies like Shaw and Powell Camping Company and Wylie Permanent Camping Company. These camps were erected throughout the park and offered shelter before hotels and lodges were built. Both companies had facilities at Old Faithful. By 1917, auto traffic into the park was increasing, and it was decided that some camps could be eliminated. Yellowstone Park Camping Company emerged and operated on the old site of the Shaw and Powell camp, the present day site of the Lodge. In 1918, a laundry was built on the site and construction continued on the facility until 1928 when the Lodge reached its present configuration.

Cabin-style accommodations are available at Old Faithful Lodge. Often confused with the other two hotels in the area, Old Faithful Lodge houses a cafeteria, gift shop, coffee shop, and the front desk where guests check in. The lodge is currently operated by Xanterra Parks & Resorts.

The advent of the auto in the park in 1915 created a great influx of visitors. The need arose for an intermediate style of lodging between the luxury of the Lake Hotel and the rustic accommodations of the tent camps. In 1926, the Lake Lodge (also a Robert Reamer design) was completed, one of four lodges in the park. The park was no longer primarily accessible to only affluent “dudes” or hearty “sagebrushers.” Democracy had come to Yellowstone.

The Lamar Buffalo Ranch was built in the early part of the century in an effort to increase the herd size of the few remaining bison in Yellowstone, preventing the feared extinction of the species. Buffalo ranching operations continued at Lamar until the 1950s. The valley was irrigated for hay pastures, and corrals and fencing were scattered throughout the area. Remnants of irrigation ditches, fencing, and water troughs can still be found. Four remaining buildings from the original ranch compound are contained within the Lamar Buffalo Ranch Historic District (two residences, the bunkhouse, and the barn) and are on the National Register of Historic Places. You are welcome to drive by to view the historic buffalo ranch, however, there are no facilities open to the general public at this location.

On July 12, 1988, a small fire started near the Falls River in the southeastern corner of the park. For several weeks, the fire grew slowly as crews attempted to contain it. On August 20, the winds picked up. This day would later become known as “Black Saturday” because more acres burned on this day alone than in the entire history of Yellowstone prior to this day. During that week, high winds drove the fire for miles until it approached the Lewis River. Defying all conventional understanding of fire behavior and driven by 60 mph winds that gusted to 80 mph, the fire blew all the way across the Lewis River Canyon on August 23.

Firefighters were astounded. Even the most experienced Incident Commanders had never seen fire burn like it did in 1988. While the fires shocked the nation and the world, scientists had long known that a fire of this magnitude would burn through a lodgepole pine forest like Yellowstone’s on an average of once every 300 years. In fact, lodgepole pine forests are adapted to fire. Some of the pine cones need the intense heat of fire to open the cones and drop the seeds for the next generation of forests. While fire is often difficult for people to understand, for the lodgepole pine forests it is as important and necessary as other natural processes like rain and sunshine, death and rebirth.

Geologists indicate that large volcanic eruptions have occurred in Yellowstone on an approximate interval of 600,000 years. The most recent of these (600,000 years ago) erupted from two large vents, one near Old Faithful, the Mallard Lake Dome, and one just north of Fishing Bridge, the Sour Creek Dome. Ash from this huge explosion, 1,000 times the size of Mt. St. Helens, has been found all across the continent. The magma chamber then collapsed, forming a large caldera filled partially by subsequent lava flows. Part of this caldera is the 136-square mile basin of Yellowstone Lake. The original lake was 200 ft. higher than the present-day lake, extending northward across Hayden Valley to the base of Mt. Washburn.

In the last decade, geological research has determined that the two volcanic vents, now known as “resurgent domes”, are rising again. From year to year, they either rise or fall, with an average net uplift of about one inch per year. During the period between 1923 and 1985, the Sour Creek Dome was rising. In the years since 1986, it has either declined or remained the same. The resurgence of the Sour Creek dome, just north of Fishing Bridge is causing Yellowstone Lake to “tilt” southward. Larger sandy beaches can now be found on the north shore of the lake, and flooded areas can be found in the southern arms.

Mt. Everts is made up of distinctly layered sandstones and shale–sedimentary rocks deposited when this area was covered by a shallow inland sea, 70 to 140 million years ago. Bunsen Peak is 8,564 feet high (2,612 meters). The peak is also interesting because it burned in the 1880s and then again in 1988. A series of old photos show the creep of trees up Bunsen following the 1880 fires, and the new patterns of open space created by the fires of 1988.

Evidence of the geological forces that have shaped Yellowstone are found in abundance in this district. The hills surrounding Old Faithful and the Upper Geyser Basin are reminders of Quaternary rhyolitic lava flows. These flows, occurring long after the catastrophic eruption of 600,000 years ago, flowed across the landscape like stiff mounds of bread dough due to their high silica content.

Evidence of glacial activity is common, and it is one of the keys that allow geysers to exist. Glacier till deposits underlie the geyser basins providing storage areas for the water used in eruptions. Many landforms, such as Porcupine Hills north of Fountain Flats, are comprised of glacial gravel and are reminders that as recently as 13,000 years ago, this area was buried under ice.

Signs of the forces of erosion can be seen everywhere, from runoff channels carved across the sinter in the geyser basins to the drainage created by the Firehole River.

Mountain building is evident as you drive south of Old Faithful, toward Craig Pass. Here the Rocky Mountains reach a height of 8,262 feet, dividing the country into two distinct watersheds. Yellowstone is a vast land containing a landscape that is continually being shaped by geological forces.

Mammoth Hot Springs are a superficial expression of the deep volcanic forces at work in Yellowstone. Although these springs lie outside the caldera boundary, their energy is attributed to the same magmatic system that fuels other Yellowstone thermal areas. Hot water flows from Norris to Mammoth along a fault line roughly associated with the Norris to Mammoth road. Shallow circulation along this corridor allows Norris’ super-heated water to cool somewhat before surfacing at Mammoth, generally at about 170° F. Thermal activity here is extensive both over time and distance. Terrace Mountain, northwest of Golden Gate, has a thick cap of travertine. The Mammoth Terraces extend all the way from the hillside where we see them today, across the Parade Ground, and down to Boiling River. The Mammoth Hotel, as well as all of Fort Yellowstone, is built upon an old terrace formation known as Hotel Terrace. There was some concern when construction began in 1891 on the Fort site that the hollow ground would not support the weight of the buildings. Several large sink holes (fenced off) can be seen out on the Parade Ground. This area has been thermally active for several thousand years. Due to its year-round access and comparatively mild winters, Mammoth has always been the headquarters for the park. The hot springs were an early commercialized attraction for those seeking relief from ailments in the mineral waters. Two historic events taking place at Mammoth were the Nez Perce flight in 1877 and President Teddy Roosevelt’s visit in 1903.

Norris Geyser Basin is the hottest, oldest, and most dynamic of Yellowstone’s thermal areas. The highest temperature yet recorded in any geothermal area in Yellowstone was measured in a scientific drill hole at Norris: 459°F (237°C) just 1,087 feet (326 meters) below the surface! There are very few thermal features at Norris under the boiling point (199°F at this elevation). Norris shows evidence of having had thermal features for at least 115,000 years. The features in the basin change daily, with frequent disturbances from seismic activity and water fluctuations. The vast majority of the waters at Norris are acidic, including acid geysers which are very rare. Steamboat Geyser, the tallest geyser in the world (300 to 400 feet) and Echinus Geyser (pH 3.5 or so) are the most popular features. The basin consists of three areas: Porcelain Basin, Back Basin, and One Hundred Springs Plain. Porcelain Basin is barren of trees and provides a sensory experience in sound, color, and smell; a 3/4 mile dirt and boardwalk trail accesses this area. Back Basin is more heavily wooded with features scattered throughout the area; a 1.5 mile trail of boardwalk and dirt encircles this part of the basin. One Hundred Springs Plain is an off-trail section of the Norris Geyser Basin that is very acidic, hollow, and dangerous. Travel is discouraged without the guidance of knowledgeable staff members. The area was named after Philetus W. Norris, the second superintendent of Yellowstone, who provided the first detailed information about the thermal features.

Norris sits on the intersection of three major faults. The Norris-Mammoth Corridor is a fault that runs from Norris north through Mammoth to the Gardiner, Montana area. The Hebgen Lake fault runs from northwest of West Yellowstone, Montana, to Norris. This fault experienced an earthquake in 1959 that measured 7.4 on the Richter scale (sources vary on exact magnitude between 7.1 and 7.8). These two faults intersect with a ring fracture that resulted from the Yellowstone Caldera of 600,000 years ago. These faults are the primary reason that Norris Geyser Basin is so hot and dynamic. The Ragged Hills that lie between Back Basin and One Hundred Springs Plain are thermally altered glacial moraines. As glaciers receded, the underlying thermal features began to express themselves once again, melting remnants of the ice and causing masses of debris to be dumped. These debris piles were then altered by steam and hot water flowing through them.

Located just north of Norris on the Norris-Mammoth section of the Grand Loop Road, Roaring Mountain is a large, acidic thermal area (solfatara) that contains many steam vents (fumaroles). In the late 1800s and early 1900s, the number, size, and power of the fumaroles were much greater than today.

The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone is the primary geologic feature in the Canyon District. It is roughly 20 miles long, measured from the Upper Falls to the Tower Fall area. Depth is 800 to 1,200 ft.; width is 1,500 to 4,000 ft. The canyon as we know it today is a very recent geologic feature. The exact sequence of events in the formation of the canyon is not well understood, as there has been little field work done in the area. We do know that the canyon was formed by erosion rather than by glaciations. The colors in the canyon are a result of hydrothermal alteration. The rhyolite in the canyon contains a variety of different iron compounds. When the old geyser basin was active, the “cooking” of the rock caused chemical alterations in these iron compounds. Exposure to the elements caused the rocks to change colors. The rocks are, in effect, oxidizing; the canyon is rusting. The colors indicate the presence or absence of water in the individual iron compounds. Most of the yellows in the canyon are the result of iron present in the rock rather than sulfur, as many people think.

Yellowstone, as a whole, possesses close to 60 percent of the world’s geysers. The Upper Geyser Basin is home to the largest numbers of this fragile feature found in the park. Within one square mile there are at least 150 of these hydrothermal wonders. Of this remarkable number, only five major geysers are predicted regularly by the naturalist staff. They are Castle, Grand, Daisy, Riverside, and Old Faithful. There are many frequent, smaller geysers to be seen and marveled at in this basin as well as numerous hot springs and one recently developed mudpot (if it lasts).

Lower Geyser Basin is a large area of hydrothermal activity that can be viewed by foot along the boardwalk trail at Fountain Paint Pots and by car along the three mile Fire hole Lake Drive. The latter is a one-way drive where you will find the sixth geyser predicted by the Old Faithful staff: Great Fountain. Its splashy eruptions send jets of diamond droplets bursting 100-200 feet in the air, while waves of water cascade down the raised terraces. Patience is a virtue with this twice-a-day geyser, as the predictions allow a 2 hour +/- window of opportunity. Midway Geyser Basin holds Excelsior Geyser which reveals a gaping crater 200 x 300 feet with a constant discharge of more than 4,000 gallons of water per minute into the Firehole River. Also in this surprising basin is Yellowstone’s largest hot springs, Grand Prismatic Spring. This feature is 370 feet in diameter and more than 121 feet in depth. Craig Pass/Isa Lake is both names used to describe the same location seven miles south of Old Faithful on the Grand Loop Road. At 8,262 feet along the Continental Divide, Isa Lake is a uniquely confusing feature. During spring runoff, it drains into both the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans at the same time! (And backwards, too!) The west side of the lake flows into the Firehole drainage and, eventually, the Atlantic throughout the year. The east side, during spring, flows toward the Snake River drainage and the Pacific.

The thermal features at Mud Volcano and Sulphur Caldron are primarily mud pots and fumaroles because the area is situated on a perched water system with little water available. Fumaroles or “steam vents” occur when the ground water boils away faster than it can be recharged. Also, the vapors are rich in sulfuric acid that leaches the rock, breaking it down into clay. Because no water washes away the acid or leached rock, it remains as sticky clay to form a mud pot. Hydrogen sulfide gas is present deep in the earth at Mud Volcano. As this gas combines with water and the sulfur is metabolized by cyanobacteria, a solution of sulfuric acid is formed that dissolves the surface soils to create pools and cones of clay and mud. Along with hydrogen sulfide, steam, carbon dioxide, and other gases explode through the layers of mud. Although the Mud Volcano can no longer be heard from a mile away nor does it throw mud from its massive crater, the area is still eerily intriguing.

Two of the most popular features in the Mud Volcano front country are the Dragon’s Mouth and the Black Dragon’s Caldron. The rhythmic belching of steam and the flashing tongue of water give the Dragon’s Mouth Spring its name, though its activity has decreased notably since December 1994. The Black Dragon’s Caldron exploded onto the landscape in 1948, blowing trees out by their roots and covering the surrounding forest with mud. The large roil in one end of the Caldron gives one the sense that the Black Dragon itself might rear its head at any time. In January 1995, a new feature on the south bank of Mud Geyser became extremely active. It covers an area of 20 by 8 feet and is comprised of fumaroles, small pools, and frying-pan type features. Much of the hillside to the south and southwest of Mud Geyser is steaming and hissing with a few mudpots intermixed. The huge seething mud pot known as the “Gumper” is located off-boardwalk behind Sour Lake. The more recent features just south of the Gumper are some of the hottest and most active in the area.

The West Thumb Geyser Basin, including Potts Basin to the north, is unique in that it is the largest geyser basin on the shores of Yellowstone Lake. The heat source of the thermal features in this location is thought to be relatively close to the surface, only 10,000 feet down! The West Thumb of Yellowstone Lake was formed by a large volcanic explosion that occurred approximately 150,000 years ago (125,000-200,000). The resulting collapsed volcano, called a caldera (“boiling pot” or caldron), later filled with water forming an extension of Yellowstone Lake. The West Thumb is about the same size as another famous volcanic caldera, Crater Lake in Oregon, but much smaller than the great Yellowstone caldera which formed 600,000 years ago. It is interesting to note that West Thumb is a caldera within a caldera.

Ring fractures formed as the magma chamber bulged up under the surface of the earth and subsequently cracked, releasing the enclosed magma. This created the source of heat for the West Thumb Geyser Basin today.

The park’s largest lake is Yellowstone Lake. This “matchless mountain lake” was probably seen by John Colter on his famous winter trip of discovery in 1807-1808. Before that, Native Americans surely camped on its shores every summer. Although it is unlikely that Native Americans lived here, many arrowheads, spearheads, and other artifacts have been found near the lake. Yellowstone Lake covers 136 square miles and is 20 miles long by 14 miles wide. It has 110 miles of shoreline. The lake is at least 320 feet deep in the West Thumb area and has an average depth of 140 feet. Situated at an elevation of 7,733 feet, the lake remains cold the year-round, with an average temperature of 41°F.

Yellowstone Lake is the largest natural freshwater lake in the United States that is above 7,000 feet and is one of the largest such lakes in the world. Because of its size and depth and the area’s prevailing winds, the lake can sometimes be whipped into a tempestuous inland ocean. During late summer, Yellowstone Lake becomes thermally stratified with each of several water layers having a different temperature. The topmost layer rarely exceeds 66°F, and the lower layers are much colder. Because of the extremely cold water, swimming is not recommended. The lake has the largest population of wild cutthroat trout in North America.

Shoshone Lake, the park’s second largest lake, is located at the head of the Lewis River southwest of West Thumb. Shoshone Lake is 205 feet at its maximum depth, has an area of 8,050 acres. This large lake is the source of the Lewis River, which flows to the Pacific Ocean via the Snake River system. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service believe that Shoshone Lake may be the largest lake in the lower 48 states that cannot be reached by road.

The Snake River is a major tributary of the Columbia River and has its headwaters just inside Yellowstone on the Two Ocean Plateau. Various stretches of this important river have had at least 15 different names. The name, which comes from the Snake (Shoshone) Indians, was applied to the river as early as 1812, making it one of the oldest place names in the park. Shoshone Indians referred to some parts of the stream as “Yampa-pah,” meaning “stream where the Yampa grows” (Yampa is a food plant) and later as “Po-og-way” meaning “road river” (a reference to the Oregon Trail, which followed sections of the river) or, less often, “sagebrush river.” The source of the Snake River was debated for a long time. The problem was to find the longest branch in the Two Ocean Plateau, which is thoroughly crisscrossed with streams. Current maps show the head of the Snake to be about 3 miles north of Phelps Pass, at a point on the Continental Divide inside Yellowstone National Park. The Snake River is the nation’s fourth largest river; 42 miles of it are in Yellowstone National Park.

The Yellowstone River is the last major undammed river in the lower 48 states, flowing 671 miles from its source southeast of Yellowstone into the Missouri River and then, eventually, into the Atlantic Ocean. It begins in the Bazooka Mountain Range on Young Peak. The river enters the park and meanders through the Thorofare region into Yellowstone Lake. It leaves the lake at Fishing Bridge and flows north over LeHardy Rapids and through Hayden Valley. After this peaceful stretch, it crashes over the Upper and Lower falls of the Grand Canyon. It then flows generally northwest, meeting its largest tributary, the Lamar River, at Tower Junction. It continues through the Black Canyon and leaves the park near Gardiner, Montana. The Yellowstone River continues north and east through the state of Montana and joins the Missouri River near the eastern boundary line of the state. The Missouri River eventually joins the Mississippi River, which flows into the Atlantic Ocean at the Gulf of Mexico.

The Gibbon River flows from Wolf Lake through the Norris area and meets the Firehole River at Madison Junction to form the Madison River. Both cold and hot springs are responsible for the majority of the Gibbon’s flow.

Yellowstone is home to over 1,700 species of native vascular plants and over 170 species of exotic (non-native) plants. Much of the beauty of Yellowstone National park is provided by the plant cover draped across its mountains and valleys. 80 percent of the park is covered with forests. There are the darker, bluish green Douglas-fir stands and yellowish green young lodgepole pine stands. These stands form sharp contrasts against the browns and blacks of recently burned forests, the rich green of meadows, or the gray of alpine ridges. There are also large areas of subalpine fir and Engelmann spruce. At higher elevations whitebark pine becomes the main component in the forest.

In the spring and early summer, wild flowers appear in abundance, such as lupines, arnicas, arrowleaf balsamroot, phlox, paintbrush, and penstemon. In the fall you will see Goldenrod and gentians.

Yellowstone sand verbena (Abronia ammophila) is a special plant. Unique to Yellowstone’s lakeshores, this sand verbena is endemic to the park—it exists nowhere else in the world. The presence of a sand verbena on the Yellowstone Plateau is surprising because of the high elevation (approximately 7,740 feet, or 2,360 meters) and long, cold winters. Yellowstone sand verbena is a member of a New World plant family that typically lives in warmer climates such as deserts and tropical areas. The genus Abronia includes about 30 species that primarily occur in warmer areas of the western United States and Mexico. Some botanists speculate that the thermal activity in Yellowstone has made it possible for a sand verbena to survive the harsh winters here and slowly evolve into a species that is adapted to this climate.

Yellowstone sand verbena, as the name suggests, is associated with sandy sites. It grows as a sand-hugging mat one to four inches tall and up to three feet wide. Because sticky glands cover the surface of the plant, sand grains adhere to flowers, stems, fruit, and leaves.

Clusters of white flowers are present from mid-June to late August or early September when harsh frost kills the above-ground parts of the plant. This long blooming period is unusual for Yellowstone; most plants bloom for a short time during the summer. The advantages to the sand verbena for this sustained bloom are unknown, although one reason could be the sporadic presence of pollinators such as moths. A prolonged blooming period would maximize the chance that at least some of the blossoms will be pollinated.

In recent surveys, botanists have located four populations of Yellowstone sand verbena, but very little is known about its life history and biology. For example, the plant is represented as an annual in the scientific literature, although it is actually a perennial that over-winters underground as a large root system. No one currently knows how the plant is pollinated, how the seeds are transported, or how long the seeds survive. The entire population of Yellowstone sand verbena numbers approximately 8,000 individuals, which vary in size from seedlings to large mats.

The North Entrance Road from Gardiner, Montana, to Mammoth Hot Springs, Wyoming, runs along the Gardner River. The road winds into the park, up the canyon, past crumbling walls of sandstone and ancient mudflows. The vegetation is much thicker in the canyon than on the open prairie down below, the common trees being Rocky Mountain juniper, cottonwood, and Douglas-fir. Low-growing willows also crowd the river’s edge in the flatter, flood-prone sections of the canyon.

There are opportunities for horseback riding trips in the back country, backpacking trips, cross-country skiing, snow shoeing, snowmobiling, climbing, river kayaking trips, scuba diving, visiting all the geothermal sites, camping, bird watching, boating, ranger-led hikes, touring Historic Fort Yellowstone, and Mammoth Daily Specials-talks for children and adults that range in topics from wildlife, history, and explorers to geology; making it a great family vacation spot. In addition to geyser viewing, the almost 3 million visitors a year will also see waterfalls, rivers, forests, and wildlife, in the form of grizzlies, elk, bison, gray wolves, big horn sheep, eagles, and osprey. Yellowstone has been called the wildlife wonder of the continent, the American Serengeti.

Bicycling is a fun way to see the park and is permitted on established public roads, parking areas, and designated routes. Bikes are prohibited on backcountry trails and boardwalks. Use extreme caution when riding on park roads; roads are winding and narrow while shoulders are either narrow or nonexistent. Vehicle traffic is heavy most of the time. There are no bicycle paths along roadways. Several gravel roads are open to both bicycle and automotive traffic. The Old Garidner Road and Blacktail Plateau Drive allow two-way bike traffic and one-way auto traffic. These roads are best suited for mountain bikes. There are several routes restricted to bicycle and foot travel only in the Mammoth area, West Entrance area, Old Faithful area, and the Lake and Towers areas. Mountain bikes are recommended in most areas. Before the roads open to general automobile traffic in the spring, some of them are opened to bicycling. Check with the park.

Over 1,100 miles (1770 km) of trails are available for hiking. There are numerous day hike trails to choose from in the park, all you need to do is decide what you are most interested in seeing for your wilderness adventure. Pelican Creek Trail is a scenic introduction to a variety of Yellowstone’s habitats and a good place for birding. It’s an easy 1 mile loop hike. Natural Bridge Trail is an easy 3 mile round trip hike. The natural bridge is a 51 ft. (18 m) high cliff of rhyolite rock that has been cut through by the erosional forces of Bridge Creek. Storm Point Trail passes a rocky area near the point that is home to a large colony of yellow-bellied marmots. Pelican Valley Trail winds through the Pelican Valley providing views of the broad open valley and forest, some of the best grizzly habitat in the lower 48 states. It reaches the footbridge in 3 miles (5 km). The trail continues on through the valley. Due to grizzly bears in the area, the trail is not open until July 4th, and then it is recommended (not required) for use by groups of four people or more. To get to Observation Peak, hike to Cascade Lake from either of its two trailheads. From the lake, this strenuous, 1,400 foot climb in 3 miles will take roughly 3 hours. The hike takes you to a high mountain peak for an outstanding view of the Yellowstone wilderness. The trail passes through open meadows and some white bark pine forests. It is eleven miles round trip. Yellowstone River Picnic Area Trail is an often overlooked trail along the east rim of the Yellowstone River that offers views of the Narrows of the Yellowstone, the Overhanging Cliff area, the towers of Tower Fall, basalt columns, and the historic Bannock Indian Ford. Watch for bighorn sheep along this trail but please don’t approach them! Use caution along the river canyon with its steep drop-offs. These are just a handful of trails to be tackled at Yellowstone.

Artist Paint Pots is a small but lovely thermal area just south of Norris Junction. A one-mile round trip trail takes visitors to colorful hot springs, two large mudpots, and through a section of forest burned in 1988. Adjacent to this area are three other off-trail, backcountry thermal areas: Sylvan Springs, Gibbon Hill Geyser Basin, and Geyser Creek Thermal area. These areas are fragile, dangerous, and difficult to get to; travel without knowledgeable personnel is discouraged.

Spring Hiking in Yellowstone is a great way to both see and enjoy the park. This time period allows the unique opportunity for non-motorized use of certain park roads. Hiking, bicycling, jogging, roller blades, roller skis, and similar means of non-motorized travel are permitted between the West Entrance and Mammoth Hot Springs ONLY from about mid March through the third Thursday in April. The opening day in March is weather dependant. The East and South Entrances and roads are Not Open for these early spring activities. The road from Madison Junction to Old Faithful will Not Open for spring activities during this time. Please Note, there will be some administrative vehicles traveling the roads at this time.

Angling has been a major visitor activity for over a century. The Firehole River starts south of Old Faithful, runs through the thermal areas northward to join the Gibbon and form the Madison River. The Firehole is world famous among anglers for its pristine beauty and healthy brown, brook, and rainbow trout. Present regulations reflect the park’s primary purposes of resource protection and visitor use. In Yellowstone, bald eagles, ospreys, pelicans, otters, grizzly bears, and other wildlife take precedence over humans in utilizing fish as food. None of the fish in Yellowstone are stocked, and populations depend on sufficient number of spawning adults to maintain natural reproduction and genetic diversity. In Yellowstone National Park, less emphasis is placed upon providing fishing for human consumption and more emphasis is placed upon the quality for recreational fishing. Anglers, in return, have the opportunity to fly fish for wild trout in a natural setting. Because of the increasing number of anglers in the park, more restrictive regulations have been adopted in Yellowstone. These restrictions include: season opening/closing dates, restrictive use of bait, catch-and-release only areas, and number/size limits according to species. A few places are closed to the public to protect threatened and endangered species, sensitive nesting birds, and to provide scenic viewing areas for visitors seeking undisturbed wildlife. As of the summer of 2001, all native sport fish species in Yellowstone National Park became subject to catch-and-release-only fishing rules. The native species affected by this change are the cutthroat trout and its several subspecies, Montana grayling, and mountain whitefish. Most of the park’s native fishes have been included under catch-and-release-only fishing rules since the early 1970′s. The changes effective in 2001 primarily affect populations in Yellowstone Lake, its tributaries, and the upper Lamar River. A Yellowstone National Park Fishing Permit is required to fish in the park for anglers 16 years of age and older.

There are almost innumerable areas of interest to see in Yellowstone. The park is divided into several separate regions that offer their own unique wonders and beauty. Archeological sites mingle with scientific mysteries in this multi-ecosystems land. Come prepared with your cameras and video cams to catch some great photographs and family travel videos.

The short loop from the parking lot past the Dragon’s Mouth and the Mud Volcano is handicapped accessible. The half-mile upper loop trail via Sour Lake and the Black Dragon’s Caldron is relatively steep. Two of the most popular features in the Mud Volcano front country are the Dragon’s Mouth and the Black Dragon’s Caldron. The rhythmic belching of steam and the flashing tongue of water give the Dragon’s Mouth Spring its name, though its activity has decreased notably since December 1994. The Black Dragon’s Caldron exploded onto the landscape in 1948, blowing trees out by their roots and covering the surrounding forest with mud. The large roil in one end of the Caldron gives one the sense that the Black Dragon itself might rear its head at any time. In January 1995, a new feature on the south bank of Mud Geyser became extremely active. It covers an area of 20 by 8 feet and is comprised of fumaroles, small pools, and frying-pan type features. Much of the hillside to the south and southwest of Mud Geyser is steaming and hissing with a few mudpots intermixed. This increase in activity precipitated a great deal of visitor interest and subsequent illegal entry into the area.

The most dramatic features of the Mud Volcano area however, are not open to the public. The huge seething mud pot known as the “Gumper” is located off-boardwalk behind Sour Lake. The more recent features just south of the Gumper are some of the hottest and most active in the area. Ranger-guided walks are offered to provide visitors an opportunity to view this interesting place.

Mammoth Hot Springs are the main attraction of the Mammoth District. These features are quite different from thermal areas elsewhere in the park. Travertine formations grow much more rapidly than sinter formations due to the softer nature of limestone. As hot water rises through limestone, large quantities of rock are dissolved by the hot water, and a white chalky mineral is deposited on the surface.

The North Entrance Road from Gardiner, Montana, to Mammoth Hot Springs, Wyoming, runs along the Gardner River. The road winds into the park, up the canyon, past crumbling walls of sandstone and ancient mudflows. The vegetation is much thicker in the canyon than on the open prairie down below, the common trees being Rocky Mountain juniper, cottonwood, and Douglas-fir. Low-growing willows also crowd the river’s edge in the flatter, flood-prone sections of the canyon. Watch for wildlife in season: eagles, osprey, dippers, and kingfishers along the river and bighorn sheep in the steeper parts of the canyon.

Although visitors are sometimes confused by the rapidly shifting activity of the hot springs and disappointed when a favorite spring appears to have “died,” it is important to realize that the location of springs and the rate of flow changes daily, that “on-again-off-again” is the rule, and that the overall volume of water discharged by all of the springs fluctuates little.

The 45th Parallel Bridge and Boiling River is a great spot for fun. A sign near where the road crosses the Gardner River marks the 45th parallel of latitude. The 45th parallel is an imaginary line that circles the globe halfway between the equator and the North Pole. This same line passes through Minneapolis-St. Paul, Ottawa, Bordeaux, Venice, Belgrade, and the northern tip of the Japanese islands. It is, here in Yellowstone, roughly aligned with the Montana-Wyoming border.

A parking area on the east side of the road is used by bathers in the “Boiling River.” Bathers must walk upstream about a half mile from the parking area to the place where the footpath reaches the river. This spot is also marked by large clouds of steam, especially in cold weather. Here, a large hot spring, known as Boiling River, enters the Gardner River. The hot and the cold water mix in pools along the river’s edge. Bathers are allowed in the river during daylight hours only. Bathing suits are required, and no alcoholic beverages are allowed. Boiling River is closed in the springtime due to hazardous high water and often does not reopen until mid-summer.

Firehole Canyon Drive, a side road, follows the Firehole River upstream from Madison Junction to just above Firehole Falls. The drive takes sightseers past 800-foot thick lava flows. Firehole Falls is a 40-foot waterfall. An unstaffed swimming area here is very popular in the warmest of the summer season. Cliff diving is illegal.

There are archeological resources in the park. There are several wickiups,domed single-room dwellings in the vicinity as well as the Bannock Indian trail, roasting pits, and the Obsidian Cliff quarry site. In 1959, a Clovis point that was dated to more than 10,000 years ago was found at the site of the old Gardiner post office.

There are many Ranger-led walks, talks and hikes. Some cost money, but others are free. Check with the visitor stations to get current information about times, places and money. You will learn a lot more about the park then you would on your own and have a lot of fun in the process!

Yellowstone National Park has an official Junior Ranger Program open to children ages 5 – 12. The goal of the program is to introduce children to the natural wonders of Yellowstone and their role in preserving them for the future.

To become a Junior Ranger, families pay a $3 fee for the 12-page activity paper, Yellowstone’s Nature, available at any visitor center. After completing the age appropriate requirements described in the paper and reviewing their work with a ranger at any visitor center, participants are awarded an official Yellowstone Junior Ranger patch. Modeled after the National Park Service patch, Junior Ranger patches feature a stylized bear track for 8-12 year olds, a wolf track for 5-7 year olds, and a snowflake for all winter junior rangers.

Requirements include attending a Ranger-led program, hiking on a park trail, and completing activities on various park resources, issues, and concepts such as geothermal geology, park wildlife, and fire ecology.

Some winter activities require the use of a thermometer and hand lens, so make sure you ask to check out a Junior Ranger Snowpack. Snowpacks are available at both the Mammoth and Old Faithful visitor centers and snowshoes may be checked out in Mammoth. Both children and adults benefit by sharing the fun of becoming a Junior Ranger.

Invasive introduced organisms such as lake trout, whirling disease, and New Zealand mud snails are having negative effects on Yellowstone’s native sport fish. The 2001 regulatory changes seem to be the next logical step to help repair the tremendous damage being done to the native species.

Yellowstone cutthroat trout have declined throughout the west and are currently designated as a “Species of Special Concern-Class A” by the American Fisheries Society. A formal petition to list this subspecies as “threatened” throughout its range was submitted to the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service in 1998. Yellowstone National Park represents approximately 91% of the current range of Yellowstone cutthroat trout and contains 85% of the historical lake habitat for this subspecies, so the park is considered crucial to the survival of the species.

Yellowstone cutthroat trout generally declined in the second half of the 20th century due to angler overharvest, competition with exotic fishes, and overzealous egg collection. Populations rebounded in the park after the advent of catch-and-release-only fishing rules in the 1970’s, but new and aggressive invaders are causing an increasing threat to these native fish and alarming park fisheries biologists. Nonnative lake trout, an effective fish predator, were discovered in Yellowstone Lake in 1994. Throughout the west cutthroat trout populations preyed upon by introduced lake trout have typically declined, exhibited lower growth, or have disappeared. Aggressive lake trout control efforts by the National Park Service and no harvest limits have resulted in removing thousands of lake trout from Yellowstone Lake since 1994, including more than 12,000 in 2000. Still, the number of Yellowstone cutthroat trout monitored during the annual fall count in Yellowstone Lake was lower in recent years than at any other time in the 25-year history of the monitoring effort. Whirling disease, which has been implicated in recent years in the decline of trout populations in many western states, was discovered in Yellowstone Lake in 1998. So far, it is unclear which of these two nonnative invaders has been the greater factor in the decline of Yellowstone cutthroat trout, but there is no question they are causing it.

Yellowstone National Park has implemented a non-toxic fishing program using non-toxic tackle. Nationwide, more than three million waterfowl die each year from lead poisoning through ingestion. Because lead from fishing tackle concentrates in aquatic environments, tackle such as leaded split shot sinkers, weighted jigs, and soft weighted ribbon are prohibited. Only non-toxic alternatives to lead are allowed.

The Yellowstone Park Foundation funded the Westslope Cutthroat Trout Restoration Project. They are a non-profit organization whose mission is to fund projects and programs that protect, preserve and enhance Yellowstone National Park.

The NPS, U.S.D.A. Forest Service, U.S.D.A. Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service, and the State of Montana completed an Environmental Impact Statement for the Interagency Bison Management Plan for the State of Montana and Yellowstone National Park in November 2000. Alternatives considered ranged from: allowing bison to freely range over a large portion of public land inside and outside the park; managing bison like elk and other wildlife through controlled hunting outside park boundaries; and attempting to eradicate brucellosis by capturing, testing, and slaughtering infected bison at numerous facilities constructed inside the park. Additional options included purchase of additional winter range; attacking brucellosis with a safe and effective vaccine for bison; and quarantine of animals at appropriate locations such as Indian Reservations or other suitable sites outside Yellowstone.

Frank Tweedy, who wrote the first flora of Yellowstone, first collected Yellowstone sand verbena in 1885. To date, it has only been found around Yellowstone Lake and is restricted to stabilized sandy areas just above the maximum splash zone. Yet herbarium specimens suggest that the species used to be more widely distributed along the lake’s shoreline than it is today. Yellowstone sand verbena is sensitive to disturbance, such as trampling, and increased visitor use of the lakeshore may have contributed to its decline. Because it only grows in Yellowstone, it is important that care is taken to not disturb the plants.

For many people, the beauty of a plant growing in its natural habitat is enough reason for it to be valued. Beyond that, Yellowstone sand verbena occupies a specific niche in the unique, high-elevation, thermally influenced lakeshore community. The inter-woven relationship of the plants and animals in this community is not yet fully understood. The loss of any part of this web of life could have far-reaching consequences.

Scientists do not yet know if the genetic or chemical makeup of this particular plant will be useful to humans. In recent years, important medical treatments have been derived from little-known plants, such as the rosy periwinkle (which contains compounds that are the best-known treatment for childhood leukemia) and the Pacific yew (which contains taxol, the best hope for treatment of ovarian cancer). Yellowstone sand verbena, as long as it is continually protected in the park, will remain available for future research and also for everyone to enjoy.

Yellowstone National Park is at high altitude. Most of the park is above 7,500 feet (2,275 meters). Yellowstone’s weather is unpredictable. In summer, it may be warm and sunny with temperatures in the high 70s. At night in any given month, the temperature may drop close to freezing. So it is best to come prepared for cold evenings and mornings, especially if you are camping or hiking. When you leave your campsite, please leave it prepared for possible thundershowers and wind. A sunny warm day may become fiercely stormy with wind, rain, sleet and sometimes snow. Without adequate clothing and gear, an easy day hike or boat trip can turn into a battle for survival. Exposure to wind, rain, or cold can result in hypothermia. Be prepared! Cold and snow linger into May, although temperatures gradually climb.

Current Park Weather

There are dangers inherent in wilderness: unpredictable wildlife, changing weather conditions, remote thermal areas, cold water lakes, turbulent streams, and rugged mountains with loose, “rotten” rock. Visiting wilderness means experiencing the land on its terms. If you choose to explore and enjoy the natural wonders of Yellowstone, there is no guarantee of your safety. Be prepared for any situation. Carefully read all backcountry guidelines and regulations available from the park.

There are numerous trails suitable for day hiking. Begin your hike by stopping at a ranger station or visitor center for information. Trail conditions may change suddenly and unexpectedly. Bear activity, rain or snow storms, high water, and fires may temporarily close trails. At a minimum, carry water, a raincoat or poncho, a warm hat, insect repellent, sunscreen, and a first aid kit. It is recommended that you hike with another person. No permit is required for day hiking. Hiking and camping restrictions are occasionally in effect as a result of bear activity.

Never camp in an area that has obvious evidence of bear activity such as digging, tracks, or scat. Odors attract bears, so avoid carrying or cooking odorous foods. Keep a clean camp; do not cook or store food in your tent. All food, garbage, or other odorous items used for preparing or cooking food must be secured from bears. Most backcountry campsites have food poles from which all food, cooking gear, and scented articles must be suspended when not being used. Treat all odorous products such as soap, deodorant, or other toiletries in the same manner as food. Do not leave packs containing food unattended, even for a few minutes. Allowing a bear to obtain human food, even once, often results in the bear becoming aggressive about obtaining such food in the future. Aggressive bears present a threat to human safety and eventually must be destroyed or removed from the park. Please obey the law and do not allow bears or other wildlife to obtain human food. Remember to bring good quality gear such as tent, sleeping bag and mat, camp stove, matches, hiking boots, backpack, compass, topographical map, signal mirror or whistle, first aid kit, water filtering system, multiuse tool or knife, GPS, flashlight with extra batteries, food, warm clothing adequate for season, rain gear, cook pots, and plastic bags for hauling out garbage or keeping equipment dry. Also be sure to practice the “Leave-No-Trace” principles.

Sleep a minimum of 100 yards (91 meters) from where you hang, cook, and eat your food. Keep your sleeping gear clean and free of food odor. Don’t sleep in the same clothes worn while cooking and eating; hang clothing worn while cooking and eating in plastic bags. Considering bears’ highly developed sense of smell, it may seem logical that they could be attracted to odors associated with menstruation. If a woman chooses to hike or camp in bear country during menstruation, a basic precaution should be to wear internal tampons, not external pads. Used tampons should be double-bagged in a zip-lock type bag and stored the same as garbage.

All refuse must be carried out of the backcountry. Human waste must be buried 6 to 8 inches (15 – 20 centimeters) below the ground and a minimum of 100 feet (30 meters) from a watercourse. Waste water should be disposed of at least 100 feet (30 meters) from a watercourse or campsite. Do not pollute lakes, ponds, rivers, or streams by washing yourself, clothing, or dishes in them.

Waters may be polluted by animal and/or human wastes. When possible, carry a supply of water from a domestic source. If you drink water from lakes and streams, bring it to a boil to reduce the chance of infection or treat with tablets or filtering system. Don’t take chances in backcountry thermal areas. Scalding water underlies thin, breakable crusts; pools are near or above boiling temperatures. No swimming or bathing is allowed in thermal pools.

Removing, defacing or destroying any plant, animal, or mineral is prohibited. Leave historical and archeological items in place.

It is strongly recommend that safety gear, including helmet and high visibility clothing, be worn by all bicyclists. During April, May, and June, high snow banks make travel more dangerous. Road elevations range from 5,300 to 8,860 feet (1615 to 2700 meters), and services and facilities are relatively far apart–typically 20 to 30 miles (37 to 56 kilometers). Motorists frequently do not see bicyclists or fail to give them sufficient space on the road. Drivers sometimes pass on hill crests, blind curves, or in oncoming traffic. Vehicles, especially motor homes or those towing trailers may have wide mirrors, posing an additional hazard.

Private stock can be brought into the park. Overnight stock use is not permitted prior to July 1, due to range readiness and/or wet trail conditions. Horses are not allowed in frontcountry campgrounds, but are permitted in certain backcountry campsites. For information on planning a backcountry trip with stock, call the Backcountry Office at (307) 344-2160.

A permit is required for all vessels (motorized and non-motorized including float tubes) and must be obtained in person at any of the following locations: South Entrance, Lewis Lake Campground, Grant Village Visitor Center, Bridge Bay Ranger Station, and Lake Ranger Station. At Canyon and Mammoth Visitor Centers, only non-motorized boating permits are available.

Hayden Valley is one of the best places in the park to view a wide variety of wildlife. It is an excellent place to look for grizzly bears, particularly in the spring and early summer when they may be preying upon newborn bison and elk calves. Large herds of bison may be viewed in the spring, early summer, and during the fall rut, which usually begins late July to early August. Coyotes can almost always be seen in the valley. Bird life is abundant in and along the river. A variety of shore birds may be seen in the mud flats at Alum Creek. A pair of sandhill cranes usually nests at the south end of the valley. Ducks, geese, and American white pelicans cruise the river. The valley is also an excellent place to look for bald eagles and northern harriers.

There are numerous fish within the park. Yellowstone Lake has the largest population of wild cutthroat trout in North America. Just how these Pacific Ocean cutthroat got trapped in a lake that drains to the Atlantic Ocean puzzled experts for years. There is now a theory that Yellowstone Lake once drained to the Pacific Ocean (via Outlet Canyon to Snake River) and that fish could pass across the Continental Divide at Two Ocean Pass. Lake trout, an illegally introduced, exotic species, is now found in Yellowstone Lake and threatens the existence of the native cutthroat trout. Shoshone Lake contains lake trout, brown trout, and Utah chubs. Originally, Shoshone Lake was barren of fish owing to waterfalls on the Lewis River. The two types of trout were planted beginning in 1890, and the Utah chub was apparently introduced by bait fishermen.

There are grizzly bears, black bears, elk, bison, and gray wolves, among other wildlife in the park. Please remember that they are wild and potentially dangerous. Do not feed or approach them. Please see Wildlife Precautions page for further information regarding encounters with wildlife.

Private, non-commercial vehicles are charged $25 for 7 days or $50-anually. Individuals that hike or bikes into the park are charged $12 for 7 days or the $50 annual fee. Motorcycles are charged $20 for 7 days, or the annual fee. The camping fees for the park run campgrounds are $12-14/ day.

There are 12 campgrounds in Yellowstone National Park. Seven of these campgrounds are operated by the National Park Service at Indian Creek, Lewis Lake, Mammoth, Norris, Pebble Creek, Slough Creek, and Tower Fall. Sites at these campgrounds are available on a first-come, first-served basis. Wood and charcoal fires are permitted only in locations with fire grates. Special fire restrictions are occasionally put in place when the danger of wild land fires is great. If you plan to light a fire in the park, please ask about current fire restrictions at the entrance station when you arrive. Dates are approximate and may change because of weather or resource management concerns. Following the fires of 1988, thousands of dead trees, known as snags, were left standing in Yellowstone. These snags may fall with very little warning, so please be cautious and alert for falling snags in campsites.

Camping or overnight vehicle parking in pullouts, picnic areas, picnic grounds, or any place other than a designated campground are not permitted and there are no overflow camping facilities. However, camping is often available in neighboring communities and forests outside the park. Camping is limited to 14 days between June 15 and September 15 and to 30 days the rest of the year. Since food and odors attract bears, items such as cooking stoves, utensils, coolers, trash bags, food, and toiletries may not be left outside or in tents or tent trailers, unless they are in immediate use!

Indian Creek has 75 sites open from 6/8-9/17. It is at 7,300 feet elevation and offers vault toilets.

Lewis Lake has 85 sites and is open 6/15-11/4. It is at 7,800 feet elevation and offers vault toilets.

Mammoth has 85 sites and is open all year round. At 6,200 feet elevation, it offers flush toilets. Generators are permitted 8AM to 8PM.

Norris has 116 sites; open from 5/18-9/24. At 7,500 feet elevation, it also offers flush toilets. Generators are permitted 8AM to 8PM.

Pebble Creek has 32 sites. It is open 6/8-9/24. It is at 6,900 feet elevation and has vault toilets.

Slough Creek has 29 sites; open from 5/25-10/31. It is at 6,250 feet elevation and has vault toilets.

Tower Fall has 32 sites, open 5/18-9/24. It is at 6,600 feet elevation and offers vault toilets.

There are other private campgrounds available in the park, including an RV park. Call the park about details.

Camping for bicyclists is limited to the developed campgrounds located throughout the park. The distances separating campgrounds and the fact that the campgrounds typically fill early each day during the peak visitation season will pose logistical problems for the bicycle camper in Yellowstone. A limited number of campsites are reserved for hikers and bicyclists at all campgrounds with the exception of Slough Creek. Camping is not available at Old Faithful. Bicyclists camping without a vehicle can use designated hiker/biker sites for $ 5.00 per individual per night. All other vehicle campsites range from $ 12 to $ 17 per night depending on the campground. Opening and closing dates vary considerably for each campground.

Yellowstone has a designated backcountry campsite system, and a Backcountry Use Permit is required for all overnight stays. Each designated campsite has a maximum limit for the number of people and stock allowed per night. The maximum stay per campsite varies from 1 to 3 nights per trip. Campfires are permitted only in established fire pits. Wood fires are not allowed in some backcountry campsites. A food storage pole is provided at most designated campsites so that food and attractants may be secured from bears. Neither hunting nor firearms are allowed in Yellowstone’s backcountry.

Permits may be obtained only in person and no more than 48 hours in advance of your trip. Permits are available from most ranger stations and visitor centers. In order to obtain the best information on trail conditions, permits should be obtained from the ranger station or visitor center nearest to the area where your trip is to begin. The Backcountry Use Permit is valid only for the itinerary and dates specified. Backcountry travelers must have their permits in possession while in the backcountry.

Although permits must be obtained in person no more than 48 hours in advance, backcountry campsites may be reserved in advance. Requests for reservations must be submitted by mail or in person. They cannot be made over the phone or by fax. Reservations are booked on a first come, first served basis. A confirmation notice, not a permit, is given or mailed to the camper. This confirmation notice must then be converted to the actual permit not more than 48 hours in advance of the first camping date. Details are provided on the confirmation notice. The reservation fee is $ 20.00 regardless of the number of nights out or the number of people involved. The fee is not refundable. Forms for making an advance reservation are available by writing to: Backcountry Office, P.O. Box 168, Yellowstone National Park, WY 82190; or call: 307-344-2160. Because only a portion of the approximately 300 backcountry campsites are available for advance reservations, you may choose to wait until you arrive in the park to reserve your site(s) and obtain your permit. The $ 20.00 fee applies only to reservations made more than 48 hours in advance of the start of your trip. During the summer season (June – August), permits are available 7 days a week between 8:00 a.m. and 4:30 p.m. During the spring, fall, and winter seasons, ranger stations and visitor centers do not have set hours. To obtain a Backcountry Use Permit during these seasons, check the office hours posted at the nearest ranger station or visitor center.

Commercial airlines serve the following airports near Yellowstone National Park all year: Cody and Jackson, WY; Bozeman and Billings, MT, and Idaho Falls, ID. The West Yellowstone, MT airport is serviced from June to early September from Salt Lake City, UT.

By Car. North Entrance – Near the gateway community of Gardiner, MT, the North Entrance is the only park entrance open to wheeled vehicles all year. November through April, the North Entrance provides the only access to Cooke City, MT. Beyond Cooke City the road is closed to wheeled vehicles November through April. The road from Mammoth to Norris is open to wheeled vehicles from the third Friday in April through the first Sunday in November, and to tracked over-snow vehicles from the third Wednesday in December to Monday of the first full week in March.

West Entrance – Adjacent to the town of West Yellowstone, MT, the West Entrance is open to wheeled vehicles from the third Friday in April through the first Sunday in November, and to tracked over-snow vehicles from the third Wednesday in December to Monday of the second full week in March.

South Entrance – The entrance used by visitors coming in from Jackson, WY and points south as well as the Grand Teton National Park area. Open to wheeled vehicles from the second Friday of May through the first Sunday in November, and to tracked over-snow vehicles from the third Wednesday in December to Monday of the second full week in March. Limited services are available near the South & East Entrances.

East Entrance – The entrance used by visitors coming in from Cody, WY and points east. Open to wheeled vehicles from the first Friday of May through the first Sunday in November, and to tracked over-snow vehicles from the third Wednesday in December to Monday of the second full week in March. Limited services are available near the South & East Entrances.

Northeast Entrance – Near the gateway community of Cooke City, MT, this entrance is open year around for wheeled vehicle access to Cooke City through Gardiner, MT and the North Entrance. Opening dates for roads east of Cooke City vary from year to year, depending on the weather.

Bus service from Bozeman, MT to West Yellowstone, MT via Highway 191 is available all year. Bus service directly from Idaho to West Yellowstone is limited to the summer months. Commercial transportation from Bozeman, MT to Gardiner, MT is available during the winter and summer seasons. Commercial transportation to the park from Cody and Jackson, WY is available during the summer season. There is no public transportation within the park.

Approximate Mileage from the following major cities to Yellowstone:

By Car:

Las Vegas, Nevada – 809 miles

Seattle, Washington – 800 miles

Denver, Colorado – 563 miles

Cheyenne, Wyoming – 462 miles

Salt Lake City, Utah – 390 miles

By Bus:

Bozeman, MT to West Yellowstone, MT – 89.37 miles (runs year around)

Bozeman, MT to Gardiner, MT – 77.61 miles (summertime only)

Cody, WY to Jackson, WY – 177.27 (summertime only)

By airplane: Car rentals are accessible at each airport.

Billings, MT – 129 miles (northeast access)

Cody, WY – 52 miles (east access)

Bozeman, MT – 87 miles (north access)

Jackson, WY – 56 miles (south access)

West Yellowstone, MT – 3 miles (west access, available only in summer)

Yellowstone National Park , P.O. Box 168 , Yellowstone National Park , WY 82190-0168
Visitor Information 307-344-7381
Information for the Hearing Impaired (TDD) 307-344-2386
By Fax 307-344-2005

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