Assateague Island National Seashore page 2

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The park is open year round, 24 hours a day on the Maryland side. Virginia District hours are- January-March: 6 am – 6 pm. April: 6 am – 8 pm. May-September: 5 am – 10 pm. October: 6 am – 8 pm. November-December: 6 am – 6 pm. Visitors are encouraged to stop and enjoy the exhibits and aquariums at one of the visitor centers to become acquainted with the barrier island environment. During the summer months lifeguard protected beaches are in operation and rangers lead walks, talks, demonstrations and evening programs.

Barrier Island Visitor Center is open all year from 9:00 am – 5:00 pm, closed on Thanksgiving and Christmas days. It is located in the Maryland District of Assateague Island on the southern side of Route 611, before the Verrazzano Bridge entrance into the park. Features include beachcombing exhibits, educational brochures, nature films, marine aquarium and touch tank. A cooperating association bookstore, lost and found, emergency services and restrooms are also available. Regularly scheduled park activities are available seasonally. Education programs for schools are given throughout the year. Information is available upon request.

Sinepuxent District Ranger Station/Campground Office is open all year and is located in the Maryland District of Assateague Island on east side of Bayberry Drive, after the entrance station. It offers campground information and registration, backcountry camping permits, hunting information and off-road vehicle permits.

The Virginia district of Assateague Island is managed by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service as a National Wildlife Refuge. The Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge is open year round 9:00 am – 4:00 pm, closed on New Year’s and Christmas days. It features educational exhibits, brochures, and nature films.

The National Park Service operates the Toms Cove Visitor Center within the refuge year round. It is open 9:00 am – 4:00 pm in winter, 9:00 am – 6:00 pm in summer, and 9:00 am – 5:00 pm in fall and spring, closed on Thanksgiving and Christmas days. Located on the south side of Beach Road, prior to the beach parking areas, it features beachcombing exhibits, educational brochures, marine aquarium and touch tank. A bookstore, lost and found, emergency services and permits (overnight fishing, off-road vehicle, and campfire) are available. Ranger-led programs are conducted daily in the summer.

All visitor centers, most nature trails, bathhouses and wayside exhibits are accessible. The seashore has established two accessible campsites which may be reserved. Beach wheelchairs with balloon tires are available seasonally for use on the oceanside beaches in Maryland and Virginia.

Assateague owes its very creation as a National Seashore to the weather. In the 1950’s, some 5,000 private lots comprising what is now National Park Service land were zoned and sold for resort development. The infamous “Ash Wednesday” nor’easter in 1962 disrupted construction plans, however, ripping roads apart and destroying the few existing structures on the island. In 1965 Assateague became a National Seashore.

Human activities also exert a strong influence over Assateague’s natural environment. Beginning in the 1600’s, colonists used the Island for grazing horses and other livestock. The bands of wild horses living on Assateague today are descendents of those domesticated animals and remain a powerful force acting on the island’s natural systems. Despite the often told tale of the horses swimming to Assateague from a shipwrecked Spanish galleon, the most plausible explanation is that they are the descendants of horses that were brought to barrier islands like Assateague in the late 17th century by mainland owners to avoid fencing laws and taxation of livestock.

Today’s horses are actually the size of ponies (average 12- 13 hands) probably due to their poor diet and harsh environment. Almost 80% of their diet is coarse salt marsh cord grass and American beach grass. Various grass species, greenbrier stems, bayberry twigs, rose hips, seaweeds and poison ivy make up the rest of their diet. The high concentration of salt in their diets causes the horses to drink twice as much fresh water as domestic horses. Because of this, the horses have a “fat” or “bloated” appearance.

The horses are split into two main herds, one on the Virginia side and one on the Maryland side of Assateague. The herds are separated by a fence at the Virginia/Maryland State line and the population size of each herd is kept around 150 animals to lessen their impact on island ecology. These herds have divided themselves into bands of two to twelve animals and each band occupies a home range.

The National Park Service manages the Maryland herd. The Chincoteague Volunteer Fire Company owns and manages the Virginia Herd, which is allowed to graze on Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge, through a special use permit issued by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. The permit restricts the size of the herd to approximately 150 adult animals in order to protect the other natural resources of the wildlife refuge. It is the Virginia herd which is often referred to as the “Chincoteague” ponies.

The herds are managed differently. In Virginia, the internationally famous “Pony Penning” event is responsible for meeting the limit of 150 adult animals. This event began in some form during the late 17th century when unclaimed horses were captured and marked by colonists in the presence of neighbors on a day of fellowship and festivity. The modern Pony Penning began in 1924 as an effort to raise money for the Chincoteague Volunteer Fire Company and is still held on the last Wednesday and Thursday of July. The Virginia herd, rounded up by local “saltwater cowboys”, swims across the channel (at slack tide) to Chincoteague on Wednesday in front of thousands of cheering spectators. The swim takes about 5 – 10 minutes. Most of the foals are auctioned off on Thursday and the remaining horses swim back to Assateague on Friday. New owners must be able to provide safe, humane transportation for their purchases. Most foals are easily tamed and adapt well to domestic life.

The Virginia herd undergoes a veterinary check twice a year. In the spring (April) they are vaccinated against encephalitis (both eastern and western strain), rabies and tetanus and tested for EIA (Equine Infectious Anemia or swamp fever). They are also de-wormed (using ivermectin) and some horses have their hooves trimmed. In the fall they are de-wormed again and all horses have their hooves trimmed. The horses on the Virginia side of the island are also fenced off from road areas to stop people from feeding them and attracting them to cars and roadways.

At various times in its history, fishing villages, industrial sites, and even a network of lifesaving stations for stranded mariners have all left their marks on the Seashore. Then as now, the dynamic nature of the island continues to manifest itself in both subtle and dramatic ways, giving Assateague its unique and special character.

More than half of Assateague Island National Seashore’s 48,000 acres is comprised of near-shore and estuarine waters, and the interplay between these waters and the barrier island affects nearly every aspect of life in this dynamic coastal environment.

The geography of the island itself is in a state of constant flux, continuously being reshaped by the elemental forces of wind and water. Powerful storms can dramatically alter the shoreline in a matter of hours, as waves wash over the beach and reshape the island from ocean to bay. Other forces sculpt the landscape in less obvious ways. Exposures to salt spray, lack of fresh water, and isolation from the mainland are subtle, but powerful influences on the Island’s species composition. Over time, these conditions have produced a community of plants and animals uniquely suited to the extremes found at the edge of the sea.

Large storms and hurricanes have continued to reshape the island to the present day, periodically forcing birds and humans alike to find shelter in inland areas. One of the last major storms to hit Assateague occurred in early February 1998. During this northeaster, tidal surge washed over large parts of the island, eroding away dunes and scouring away vegetation down to bare sand. The storm redistributed tremendous amounts of sand, building new areas of land along the bay side of the island and very nearly creating a new inlet near the northern end of Assateague.

Despite its relatively small size, less than 18,000 acres, a surprising array of habitats and natural features can be found on Assateague Island. Assateague stretches for 37 miles along the coasts of Maryland and Virginia, bordered by the Atlantic Ocean to the east and the Sinepuxent and Chincoteague Bays to the west. Along the seaward side, sandy beaches extend the length of the island. Beyond the beach, natural and human-made dunes protect inland habitats from salt spray and ocean waves, allowing shrub thickets and pine forests to thrive. During periods of rain, many freshwater pools form in depressions in these areas. Some are small and temporary, losing their water to the coarse, sandy soil or evaporation during the spring months. Other, larger ponds provide water for wildlife well into the dry summer months.

Assateague Island is part of a vast chain of barrier islands extending from Maine to Texas. Changing sea level and migration of offshore sediments play vital roles in forming and maintaining these important coastal features. Barrier islands can form when offshore sand deposits accumulate sufficiently to break the water surface or when sea level rise causes inland dunes to become separated from the mainland. Others form when “spits” deposited across the mouth of a bay eventually break from the mainland.

Barrier islands like Assateague are highly dynamic places, as currents and storms work to continuously reshape the land form. Though changing course periodically throughout the year, long shore currents continuously transport sand south along the coast. On a seasonal basis, harsh winter weather pulls sand from dunes and upper beaches, depositing it into offshore sand bars and reducing beach width. This process is reversed during milder summer weather, as gentler wave action acts to restore the shoreline.

Assateague is also moving westward as a result of sea-level rise and the force of the surf through a process called “island rollover.” During severe storm events, sand is eroded from the ocean beaches and carried across the island by flood waters and re-deposited in marshes along the western shore, steadily narrowing the bay that separates the island from the mainland. The island is over a quarter of a mile farther inland than it was in 1866. These events can break through dunes, spilling sand in fanlike deposits or even carving inlets, such as the one that has separated Assateague and Ocean City since 1933. Long shore currents will eventually deposit sediments and close these gaps unless, like the Ocean City inlet, it is maintained with jetties and dredging.

The Atlantic Ocean lies along the eastern side of Assateague Island, with the park’s boundary extending half-a-mile into its waters. The ocean acts to constantly sculpt the shore by transporting sand to and from offshore areas and along the coastline itself, and by occasionally washing sediments over the island and depositing them in the bay to the west.

From sandy beaches along the island’s seaward side to salt marshes on the western bay, Assateague hosts a wide variety of vegetative communities. A diverse array of environmental conditions – elevation, the availability of fresh water, distance from the ocean, the movement of sand, storm-driven winds and seas – all work to shape these communities, as each species has developed adaptations to the unique challenges of the zone in which it lives.

Plants living on the beach and dunes must withstand some of the harshest conditions. Continuous exposure to strong, salt-laden winds, constantly shifting sands, low substrate moisture, and intense summer heat all contribute to a landscape that is less than 1% vegetated. Plants like sea rockets (Cakile edentula) have fleshy, thick-skinned leaves to store water and withstand the salty environment of the beach and lower dunes. Higher up the dunes, American beachgrass (Ammophila breviligulata) adapts to shifting sands by growing additional stems when buried, thus helping to bind the substrate and reduce erosion. Prickly pear cactus is native to dry, sandy areas on Assateague Island. American Indians applied peeled pads to wounds and drank pad tea for lung ailments. Fruits were eaten fresh or dried for winter use.

In the sheltered zone beyond the dunes where fresh water is more plentiful, vegetative cover jumps to 80% and is predominantly characterized by less salt-tolerant shrubs and thickets. Here, taller plants undergo a natural pruning process, as salt winds blowing over the dunes limit their height. Common species in these areas include wax myrtle (Myrica cerifera) and northern bayberry (Myrica pensylvanica), which provide food and cover for songbirds, small rodents, and rabbits. Other species commonly found among the shrub thickets include Blackberry (Rubus argutus) and poison ivy (Toxicodendron radicans).

Where the island is wide enough to allow sufficient protection from the ocean’s salt spray and over-wash, trees are able to establish a foothold. The forests of Assateague are predominantly pine woodlands, with Loblolly pine (Pinus taeda) being the most prevalent tree species. Scrub pine (Pinus virginiana), Greenbrier (Smilax rotundifolia), and Muscadine grape (Vitis rotunifolia) are also common in the forest understory.

On the mainland side of the island adjacent to the bay, one can find large areas of salt marsh dominated by Smooth cordgrass (Spartina alterniflora), a plant that has adapted to periodic flooding by seawater by releasing salt through its leaves. Within the waters of the bay itself, beds of eel grass (Zostera marina) and other submerged aquatic vegetation provide shelter and spawning areas for aquatic animals, while microscopic phytoplankton produces vast amounts of oxygen.

The plant life of Assateague and its surrounding waters mirrors the rich diversity of its habitats, playing a variety of vital roles in the island ecosystem.

The more than two dozen species of grasses found on Assateague are vital members of the island’s plant communities, acting as sediment stabilizers in both dunes and marshes. Some species are conspicuous, such as sugarcane plumegrass (Erianthus giganteus), which can grow in moist fields to a height of 12 feet. The invasive common reed (Phragmites australis), which can also reach heights of 12 feet, is an easily recognizable inhabitant of fresh water and brackish habitats, where it can out-compete many other native species. Sandburs (Cenchrus tribuloides) disperse seeds by sticking onto animal fur or clothing, and occasionally attack campers’ inflatable sleeping pads. Other, less obtrusive grasses include ticklegrasses (Agrostis sp.) – short, tufted grasses which live in woods, fields, bogs, and marshes.

One of the most important grasses on the island is American beachgrass (Ammophila breviligulata), which stabilizes sand dunes and reduces erosion from wind. It continues to grow as sands blow over its stems, sometimes creating up to 40 feet of buried plant above the roots. Because of this trait, it is often planted during beach restoration projects.

Specific habitats on the island where grasses are the dominant plants include: brackish tidal marshes characterized by cattail (Typha angustifolia); marshes dominated by common reed or needlerush (Juncus roemerianus); saltwater cordgrass (Spartina alterniflora) marshes; interdunal sand bogs characterized by pathrush (Juncus dichotomus) and sundew (Drosera intermedia); and other dune, interdune, and bayside plant communities.

On barrier islands such as Assateague that are subjected to strong, salt-laden winds, tree and shrub growth is restricted both in size and location. Sheltered areas behind dunes allow tree and shrub communities to grow, but where the island is narrow or lacks protective dunes; few or no species may exist.

Shrub communities on Assateague establish themselves on or behind dunes, in protected depressions, and along the edges of marshes, with characteristic species growing in each location depending on the levels of salinity and moisture present. One of the most distinctive shrubs of Assateague is beach heath (Hudsonia tomentosa), a dense, low shrub common to dunes and sandy areas along the eastern seaboard. It sometimes acts as a pioneer plant, providing cover that allows other species to become established. Beach heath blooms in May and June, producing numerous small, yellow flowers.

Taller shrub communities behind dunes are limited in height by salt winds blowing above the plants, which exert a natural pruning force. Wax-myrtle (Myrica cerifera), an evergreen whose berries are still used in making candles, is the most common shrub in these protected areas. Marsh elder (Iva frutescens), which is capable of tolerating brackish or saltwater areas, dominates the shrub thickets surrounding salt marshes on the bay side of the island and marks the transition between upland and marsh.

In central portions of the island where shelter from over-wash and salt winds allow, tree communities occur. The majority of large trees in these forests are evergreen, with loblolly pine (Pinus taeda) being the dominant. Interspersed among the pines are deciduous species such as red maple (Acer rubrum), sweetgum (Liquidambar styraciflua), persimmon (Diospyros virginiana), sassafras (Sassafras albidum), and several species of oak (Quercus sp.). Other evergreen species present in the forests include American holly (Ilex opaca) and red cedar (Juniperus virginiana).

Wildflowers play an important role in the coastal ecosystem of Assateague Island. They serve as food sources for many animals, and their roots aid in the stabilization of sand, securing substrates that might otherwise be eroded by wind. Wildflowers flourish in every habitat on Assateague. Because of continuously changing habitat conditions, plants that can rapidly adjust tend to survive well on the island.

Beach habitats tend to be sparsely vegetated, with a scattering of the few species that are specialized for survival on exposed sands. Beach-dwelling wildflowers tend to grow low to the ground and have tough, fleshy leaves to avoid water loss and withstand salt and sand blown by strong winds. One such species is the federally threatened seabeach amaranth (Amaranthus pumilus), which grows in mats of over 1 foot in diameter on the beaches of Atlantic coast barrier islands. Assateague Island is the only place in Maryland where seabeach amaranth is found, and an active monitoring and management program for the species is currently underway at the park.

Other rare plants, including two species of orchids, can be found in Assateague’s damp forests and wetlands. The crested fringed orchid (Platanthera cristata) lives in damp pine forests and has bright orange flowers that appear in late summer. Rose pogonia (Pogonia ophioglossoides) plants display a single pink flower in late spring and can be found in a variety of moist areas, including sphagnum bogs, swamps, meadows, and forests.

Many of Assateague’s wildflowers species flourish in disturbed areas such as roadsides. In summer, hundreds of rose mallow (Hibiscus moscheutos) lines the entrance road with large white blooms. These are joined by collections of yellow, white, purple, or pink flowers produced by various members of the aster family (Asteraceae).

Assateague’s wildflowers are as varied as the changing conditions of the island. They constitute important components of the island’s natural systems, while also providing beauty and enjoyment to the Seashore’s many visitors.

First-time visitors should stop at the visitor centers to see exhibits and obtain information about the many recreational activities and natural features in the seashore. Seasonally, a wide variety of guided programs can be enjoyed to enhance your visit. Recreational opportunities such as swimming, surf fishing, crabbing, clamming, and canoeing are popular summer activities.

In Maryland, four miles of paved roads include an adjacent bike path. Cyclists may travel to Assateague over a bicycle-pedestrian bridge and follow a paved bike path along Bayberry Drive through 4 miles of island habitat. ‘Life of Assateague’ self-guided trails interpret three different barrier island habitats. Life of the Forest Trail, Life of the Marsh Trail, and Bicycle Bridge are all ½ mile long. There are also 37 miles of beach to wander!

In Virginia, five miles of paved roads include a bike path and fifteen miles of trails that wind through refuge marshes and forests, including a path to the Assateague lighthouse. A paved path leads bicycles from Chincoteague to Assateague. Black Duck Marsh Trail is 1 mile long and accessible. The Wildlife Loop is 3.2 miles long. The Woodland Trail is a 1.6 mile loop. Hikers can enjoy miles of beaches on both the Maryland and Virginia sides of the island. Wildlife Loop, Woodland Trail, Swan Cove Trail, and Black Duck Marsh Trail can also be biked.

There are lots of boating options available. Canoeing and kayaking around the Island is a popular sport. In Maryland, canoe rentals are available on the island from Memorial Day through Labor Day. Canoes and kayaks may be launched from designated areas on Assateague. Careful consideration should be given to weather conditions and tidal currents.

During the summer, lifeguard protected beaches are provided in both Maryland and Virginia districts for swimming and sunbathing. Surfing, surf fishing, mats and floats are allowed outside the life-guarded areas. Sea shell collecting is limited to a gallon or less of unoccupied shells to ensure a supply for beach dwelling organisms.

Surf fishing has been a popular recreational activity for generations. With a few basic tips on seasons, conditions, equipment, species and regulations, anglers can have an enjoyable experience and create a few memories. Crabbing and clamming are great ways to discover the bays behind Assateague and sample some local seafood.

There are 12 miles of beach in Maryland and a small section of beach in Virginia open to over-sand vehicles. An annual OSV permit may be purchased for $70 to $150 depending upon the type of access desired. Specific equipment is required.

Day use horseback riding is permitted each year from October 9 through May 14. In the summer and early fall, horseback riding is not permitted in the Maryland portion of Assateague Island National Seashore due to the presence of biting insects known to spread disease, including Eastern Equine Encephalitis (EEE), Equine Infectious Anemia (EIA), and West Nile Virus (WNV). The risk of infection is considered very small during the October through May season. Visitors must decide for themselves whether the level of risk is acceptable.

Feral horses are usually seen during visits to either end of the island, but weather and seasonal factors can increase or decrease the odds. They display many interesting social characteristics which are detailed in several books and a free brochure prepared by the National Park Service. The managing agencies are trying hard to keep the wild in these unique creatures: please do not feed or pet horses! They are very unpredictable and each year a number of visitors receive severe bite or kick injuries. Feeding the horses causes them to hang around roads and several are hit and killed every year.

Public hunting within the boundaries of Assateague Island National Seashore is recognized as a recreational activity and is required in the legislation that established the National Seashore (Public Law 89-195). The regulations for hunting within Assateague Island National Seashore are designed to provide a meaningful and safe experience for hunters. State laws governing the public areas of Maryland and Federal Regulations (Title 36 CFR) apply to both the lands and the waters within the boundaries of the National Seashore. Hunting is legal only in specifically designated areas of the National Seashore. Please contact the Seashore for regulations.

Assateague Island offers a variety of kids programs during the summer months. Check at the Barrier Island or Toms Cove visitor centers for program descriptions and schedules. A Junior Ranger Program is available for kids ages 6-14. They can learn more about the seashore and earn a Junior Ranger patch. A Mini-Ranger Program is available for kids ages 4-5. Both the Junior Ranger and the Mini-Ranger programs are available year-round.

Like all National Park System areas, Assateague Island National Seashore was established with the goal of balancing human use and recreation with the preservation of natural resources. As a barrier island adjacent to a densely populated resort community, Assateague is affected by of a wide range of natural and human forces. The weather, biota, and human visitors of the island all exert their influences on the physical and biological character of this unique and dynamic park.

Ocean currents, storm events, and seasonal weather patterns are constantly reshaping the island landscape. Long shore currents cause sand to migrate along the coast from north to south, while over-wash events push the island toward the mainland by transporting sediments from the seaward beaches to the marshes along the western shore. Manmade structures such as jetties built to the north of the island, in turn, alter these natural processes by inhibiting sediment transport.

Because of the growing population density in neighboring areas, human land use and development influence water quality and aquatic resources in the surrounding bay and ocean. Park staff continually monitor water quality in these areas, to identify changing conditions and help protect the health of both human and non-human life. Submerged aquatic vegetation within the bay provides vital habitat for many marine organisms, but faces threats from commercial clam fisheries and recreational boating. Recently enacted protections are allowing these important habitats to thrive, ultimately leading to healthier fishing and shell-fishing grounds.

A more recent issue facing the Island is the threat of vector-borne diseases such as West Nile Virus. Relocation through human activities increase the spread of diseases that were once limited to smaller ranges significantly further south of the Island. Despite the many environmental challenges facing Assateague, the Island continues to be a place of habitat richness and recreational opportunities.

A variety of factors influence water quality in the ocean and bays surrounding Assateague Island. Perhaps most significantly, the adjacent mainland is undergoing rapid population growth, resulting in a variety of stresses to local aquatic environments. Ocean City, Maryland, lying directly north of the island, is a large, extensively developed resort area accommodating millions of visitors during the summer months. Maryland’s eastern shore contains extensive farmlands, and certain agricultural practices areas can produce run-off containing nitrates, phosphorous, or other environmentally harmful substances. Other land and water uses, such as shoreline stabilization, construction activities and channel dredging both in the immediate area and within the watershed, also impact the natural environment through habitat modification and loss of water clarity through increased sedimentation.

In response to these threats, the National Park Service, as well as other local environmental agencies and organizations, monitor water quality throughout the area on a routine basis. Using these and other data, a State of the Bays report was recently released providing a “snapshot” of conditions in the Maryland coastal bay system. The results indicate a wide range of problems in the system, and that considerable effort will be needed to maintain and, in some cases, restore water quality and aquatic resources to healthy conditions.

Even Assateague Island’s famous wild horses exert strong impacts on the park’s natural systems. These non-native horses heavily graze the lush marsh grasses that many animals, such as clapper rails (Rallus longirostris) and ribbed mussels (Geukensia demissa), depend on for food and shelter. While an ongoing contraceptive program is controlling horse population growth, achieving an appropriate balance between protecting the horses and their island home may ultimately require a smaller herd size.

In Maryland, the number of feral horses has grown from approximately 28 in 1968 to more than 165 at present, exceeding the desired herd size of 120 to 150 animals. With this growth has come increasing evidence that the horses are having a significant negative impact on the dune and salt marsh habitats due to over grazing. By establishing a population limit of 120 to 150 animals, the National Park Service is attempting to balance the health and well being of the horses with the need to protect the island’s other sensitive natural resources and values. Visitors now have the opportunity to “actively” support Assateague’s wild horse management in Maryland by becoming a Foster Parent.

To manage population growth on a long term basis, a unique contraceptive has been developed for use in the Maryland herd. Administered by a dart gun, the non-hormonal contraceptive vaccine stimulates the mare’s immune system to produce antibodies. At sufficiently high levels these antibodies block fertilization and thereby prevent pregnancy. The contraceptive effect is temporary, lasting about one year, but can be extended with an annual booster shot. During seven years of experimental field trials, the technique has proven better than 95% effective and has exhibited no harmful side effects. Use of the contraceptive as part of a long term horse population management program began in 1994.

Dynamic and challenging weather conditions are the norm on barrier islands like Assateague, as seasonal weather patterns and occasional large storm events continuously reshape the landscape. Spring is often windy and cool with lows in the 40′s and highs in the 60′s. Summers are generally hot and humid with lows in the 60′s and highs in the 80′s. Fall is generally warm with lows in the 50′s and highs in the 70′s. Winter is damp, cold, and often windy with lows in the 20′s, highs in the 40′s.

Mosquitoes and ticks are abundant from spring through autumn. Insect repellent and/or protective clothing is recommended. It rarely snows in the winter but is often a damp cold. Sturdy hiking shoes are recommended for long walks in the sand and hard sole water shoes for wading in bay waters.

Current Weather

Your visit to Assateague will be a pleasant one if you plan ahead! The barrier island habitat can be harsh if you are not prepared. Campers are reminded to bring firewood, sunscreen, insect repellent, screen tents for shade and insect protection, and long tent stakes to anchor tents in the sand and wind.

Backcountry regulations are as follows. Pets are prohibited. Transportation of campers and their equipment by vehicle (including those with an Over Sand Vehicle permit) or motorized boat is prohibited. Campers must have the proper equipment, including raingear. You are required to camp at the site/s listed on your permit. Once your permit is issued, you may not change the itinerary. No exceptions. Bayside campsites – camp within 50 feet of the fire rings. Oceanside campsites – camp within the designated and posted boundary. Camping is not allowed on the beach or dunes. Only dead wood on the ground may be collected for firewood. Driftwood is scarce; do not count on its availability. Do not burn trash. Fires are allowed only in designated fire rings at the bayside sites. At the oceanside sites, fires are allowed on the beach below the high tide line. Fires should not be left unattended and should be extinguished with water. Do not cover them with sand. In Maryland, all vehicles must be parked at the North Beach Ranger Station (for hikers), Old Ferry Landing Parking Area or Bayside Picnic Area (for paddlers). In Virginia, ask the Toms Cove Visitor Center staff for parking information. Protect wildlife by securing your food and keeping a clean campsite. Please pack out all trash. Do not throw trash into toilets; it causes damage to pumping equipment. Trash bags are available upon request. Do not enter or approach any buildings or closed areas. Hunting camps are not permitted. The National Park Service strongly encourages the practice of Leave-No-Trace camping techniques while enjoying Assateague and other natural areas.

Adverse weather conditions are common during the spring and fall. They advise against paddling during small craft advisories. Bayside campsites are known for high concentrations of biting insects anytime from April through October. Camping on the bayside during the summer months is not recommended. No fresh water is available at any backcountry site so bring your own. One gallon per person per day is the recommended minimum.

When hiking on the beach or camping at the oceanside sites, expect to encounter vehicles in the Over Sand Vehicle (OSV) zone, especially during the summer months. An OSV permit is required to drive in the 13.5 mile OSV zone, which allows a maximum of 145 vehicles. Transportation of campers and/or equipment by vehicle is prohibited.

Do not pet, feed, or approach the wildlife, including horses. Be sure to maintain a safe distance. Food storage in campgrounds is strictly enforced! The wild horses bite and kick, observe them from a distance. Feeding wildlife encourages destructive behavior along roadsides and in campgrounds while adversely affecting their digestive systems.

Pets are prohibited (even in your vehicle) in the Virginia district of Assateague Island! Pets must be on a leash no longer than 6 feet at all times in the Maryland portion of the National Seashore. Please manage your pets! The hot sand and sun can be harder on them than it is on you. Unattended and unrestrained animals can disturb and harm island wildlife and impact fellow park visitors. Pets are completely prohibited in the following areas: all backcountry campsites, nature trails, lifeguard-protected beach, the State Park, and north of the State Park to the Ocean City inlet.

An entrance pass is required to enter the park while on horseback for the Maryland side. No permits are required for individual day use riders, however horseback riders are asked to check in at the North Beach Ranger Station. Horse camping is permitted October 9 through April 14. Reservations may be made up to six months in advance of the date you want to camp within that time period. For reservations or more information about horse camping call 410-641-3030.

All day use riders must park in the North Ocean Beach parking area and check in at the ranger station. Riders should lead their horses from the North Ocean Beach parking area through the ranger station staff parking area following the sand road dune crossing to the top of the dune. At the top of the dune riders may then mount and ride south on the beach. It is your responsibility to clean the parking lot and riding area of any manure, hay or feed before leaving the park. Please bring a bucket and shovel to aid in cleaning the area.

Horseback riding is limited to the beach in the Over Sand Vehicle (OSV) zone located 1 ½ miles south of the ranger station. The stretch of beach between the ranger station and the beginning of the OSV zone is to be used only as a corridor for entrance and exit by day use riders. In the OSV Zone, riding is allowed in all areas authorized for public OSV travel. Riders must stay on the ocean side of the white posts. Please take care to avoid visitors engaged in other recreational activities such as hiking, fishing or sunbathing. The only dune crossing riders may use is the sand road access leading to and from the ranger station. Riders may not access areas posted for authorized vehicles, backcountry campsites, the back trail behind the dunes, paved roads, public boardwalks or any other unauthorized areas.

In Virginia, an entrance pass is required for any vehicle entering the park. Other than entrance fees, no other permits are required for individual day use riders. For more information about horseback riding call the Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge at 757-336-6122 or Toms Cove Visitor Center at 757-336-6577.

Parking with horses is authorized in parking lot #4. It is your responsibility to clean the parking lot and riding area of any manure, hay or feed before leaving the park. Please bring a bucket and shovel to aid in cleaning the area. Please bring adequate water for your horse’s needs.

Horseback riding is permitted in the Over Sand Vehicle Zone in the Virginia district of Assateague Island. This area is subject to intermittent closures due to migratory bird nesting. Please refer to the Virginia District Horseback Riding map for details, obtainable from the Wildlife Refuge or Toms Cove Visitor Center. In the OSV zone, riding is permitted in all areas authorized for public OSV travel. Riders must stay on the ocean side of the black & white posts. Please take care to avoid visitors engaged in other recreational activities such as hiking, fishing or sunbathing. Riders may not access areas posted for authorized vehicles, trails, public boardwalks or any other unauthorized area. Bird nesting activities may require more restrictive, interim closures. For closure updates, please call the Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge at 757-336-6122 or Toms Cove Visitor Center at 757-336-6577.

Despite the often harsh conditions that occur in a coastal environment, a wide variety of animal species have managed to find a niche on Assateague Island. Each of the island’s different ecological zones provides habitat for a multitude of animals, including birds, mammals, reptiles, amphibians, and invertebrates. While Assateague’s wild horses are perhaps the island’s best-known inhabitants, other large mammals also roam the park, grazing and browsing on low-lying vegetation. These include the white-tailed deer (Odocoileus virginianus) and the non-native sika deer (Cervus japonica), a diminutive species of Asian elk introduced to Assateague during the 1920’s.

The mammals of Assateague occupy a wide array of habitats and range in size from small rodents to large marine mammals – the latter including the bottlenose dolphin (Tursiops truncatus) and several species of whale that feed in the island’s offshore waters.

The horses spend most of their days grazing, sleeping, or moving slowly in small bands from one feeding area to another. They feed primarily on saltmarsh cord grass, but will also eat beachgrass, greenbrier, bayberry, poison ivy, and many other types of vegetation. These feral horses roam freely over the Maryland portion of the island and within fenced areas of the Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge located on the Virginia end of the island.

Rodents such as the meadow jumping mouse (Zapus hudsonius) and meadow vole (Microtus pennsylvanicus) live in grasses bordering salt and freshwater wetlands and feed on seeds, wetland plants, and, in the case of the jumping mouse, insects. Though seldom seen, river otters (Lutra canadensis) and muskrat (Ondatra zibethica) also make their home in the island’s marshy areas and adjacent waterways.

Red foxes (Vulpes vulpes) build dens in sand dunes and roam the island hunting for mice, birds, insects, and berries. Opossum (Didelphis marsupialis) provide the important environmental service of waste removal, feeding primarily on the island’s carrion. The only marsupial found in North America, they give birth to premature young which complete development in a pouch on the outside of the mother’s body.

Two species of deer take advantage of the island’s interior forests and shrub habitats, the native white-tailed deer (Odocoileus virginianus) and the non-native sika deer (Cervus nippon), actually a diminutive species of oriental elk. Ongoing research is evaluating the ecological effects of sika deer on both native vegetation communities and other wildlife such as the white-tailed deer.

Other inhabitants are less conspicuous than the large mammals. Seven species of frogs and toads depend on fresh water ponds in the center of the island for breeding, and a variety of snakes, such as the black rat snake (Elaphe obsoleta obsoleta); can be found across the forests, dunes, and marshes preying on rodents, small birds, or toads. Numerous invertebrates such as fiddler crabs (Uca sp.) and mud snails (Nassarius sp.) play key roles in maintaining the health of the island’s salt marshes. Even the seemingly barren beaches provide habitat for nocturnal ghost crabs (Ocypode quadrata), red fox (Vulpes vulpes), and raccoons (Procyon lotor), who scavenge the crustaceans, fish, and other organic matter washed in by the tides.

Several species of reptiles possess morphological adaptations necessary to survive the varying and sometimes harsh conditions of barrier island life. Many of these animals, for instance, have tough skins that exclude salt and retain moisture. Still others exhibit behavioral adaptations that limit their exposure to severe temperature or salinity.

The box turtle (Terrapene carolina), one of the island’s terrestrial reptiles, has the ability to retreat completely within its shell and will burrow under vegetation to escape extreme weather. Assateague also hosts five species of aquatic freshwater turtles and three species of sea turtles, including the official Maryland State reptile, the Northern Diamondback Terrapin (Malaclemys terrapin terrapin). One of the island’s more charismatic species, Diamondbacks are unusual in that they are one of the very few species of turtle that prefer estuarine habitats. They reside in all of the waters surrounding the Island, but are most common in the salt marshes that border the bay. These turtles are a common sight to visitors paddling through these areas during the warmer months.

Though not common, lizards can occasionally be seen on Assateague. Both five-lined skinks (Eumeces fasciatus) and northern fence lizards (Sceloporus undulatus hyacinthinus) live in forested and shrub thicket areas on the island. They feed on small terrestrial invertebrates and will sun themselves on rocks, tree stumps, and other exposed areas within reach of a close hiding place.

Of the 19 species of snake living on the neighboring mainland of the Delmarva Peninsula, only six are found on Assateague, and all are non-venomous. Some wide-ranging species like the black rat snake (Elaphe obsoleta obsoleta) can be found in most of the island’s habitats. The eastern hognose snake (Heterodon platirhinos) – which is often mistaken for the copperhead – prefers beaches, dunes, and grassy areas, while the northern water snake (Nerodia sipedon sipedon) prefers salt marshes and freshwater or brackish ponds.

Several factors are thought to account for the discrepancy in the species present on the island and those of the mainland. Geographic isolation and the difficulty posed for most reptiles in crossing the salt waters of the bay are some obvious causes. It is suspected that humans have also played a role by intentionally introducing some species to the island. Harsh conditions, as well as limited range size and habitat types, may also restrict the species that can successfully survive on Assateague.

Many bird species make their home on Assateague on a seasonal basis. Shorebirds by the tens of thousands depend upon the island’s protected foraging and resting areas during their twice-yearly transcontinental migrations. Each fall, large flocks of waterfowl such as snow geese (Chen caerulescens) begin arriving at Assateague where they will spend the winter traveling between the sheltered bay and salt marshes and fallow farm fields on the mainland.

Located along the Atlantic migratory flyway, Assateague Island plays host to a wide variety of both migratory and resident bird species. Because its mid-latitude location is within the migratory routes of both northern and southern species, the island provides a unique opportunity for birders. The island’s rich mosaic of forest, dune, and marsh habitats offers feeding and nesting opportunities for a wide array of shorebirds, songbirds, raptors, waterfowl, and waders.

In early spring, piping plovers (Charadrius melodus) arrive at Assateague and begin to perform their elaborate territorial and courtship displays. These threatened birds are attracted to the island’s sandy, storm washed beaches which they use to both nest and feed. After spending the summer months hatching and fledging their chicks, the plovers will depart in late August for their wintering grounds in the Bahamas and southeastern United States.

Assateague’s salt marshes display an amazing diversity of bird life and activities. During the summer months, wading birds like great egrets (Casmerodius albus) and clapper rails (Rallus longirostris) can be seen hunting in the shallow waters along the marsh edge. Meanwhile, red-winged blackbirds (Agelaius phoeniceus) call ceaselessly as they patrol their summer breeding territories among the taller reeds and rushes. In the winter, northern harriers (Circus cyaneus) use these areas as hunting grounds, flying low over the marsh grasses as they scan for small mammals and birds.

A number of species also find shelter and feeding opportunities in Assateague’s forests. During daylight hours, ruby-crowned kinglets (Regulus calendula), downy woodpeckers (Picoides pubescens), and white-eyed vireos (Vireo griseus) can be found feasting on the abundant insect life. After sunset, several species of owls become active, preying on small mammals, snakes, and birds. They include the great horned owl (Bubo virginianus), one of North America’s largest species of owl, as well as the northern saw-whet owl (Aegolius acadicus). This diminutive owl (only one-third the size of the great horned owl) over-winters at Assateague. Little is known about the species, and the island serves as the site of several scientific studies on its migratory habits.

Assateague’s coastal waters act as an insulator, raising air temperatures in cold weather and keeping the air milder during warm summer months. The waters of the bay rarely freeze over, providing feeding grounds when northern areas may be barren. This milder environment attracts many temporary visitors to the Seashore to feed and rest during migration or bouts of harsher inland weather. During the winter months, flocks containing hundreds of brant (Branta bernicla), a small sea goose that summers in Northern Canada, make their appearance in the waters offshore of Assateague. Summer visitors include the brown pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis), a relative newcomer to the island still recovering from massive population drops caused by DDT. Regardless of the time of year, an abundance of bird life thrives in Assateague’s diverse habitats.

Finally, the coastal waters that surround Assateague Island teem with animal life. The sheltered, nutrient rich waters of the estuary formed by the island provide ideal breeding and spawning habitat for many aquatic species, some of which, like the blue crab (Callinectes sapidus), are commercially important to the local area. Each spring a variety of fish, including spot (Leiostomus xanthrurus), Atlantic menhaden (Brevoortia tyrannus) and summer flounder (Paralichthys dentatus) migrate into the estuary to breed. Later, the juvenile fish provide an abundant food source for birds, marine mammals, and larger fish.

Spring on Assateague Island is greeted by a natural chorus, as frogs and toads awaken from hibernation and begin to call in search of mates. Scientists use these vocalizations each year as a tool to help inventory and monitor the amphibian populations inhabiting the island. Seven species of amphibians have been identified on Assateague, significantly less than the 29 species found on the neighboring mainland. Of these seven, Fowler’s toads (Bufo woodhousii fowleri), green treefrogs (Hyla cinerea), gray treefrogs (Hyla versicolor) and southern leopard frogs (Rana sphenocephala) occur throughout the entire island. The other resident species, New Jersey chorus frogs (Pseudacris triseriata kalmi), bullfrogs (Rana catesbeiana), and green frogs (Rana clamitans melanota), are more common at the southern end of Assateague, where large freshwater impoundments offer substantial breeding habitat.

Several factors are thought to limit amphibian diversity of Assateague, the most obvious being the barrier posed by the salty waters of the bay separating the island from the mainland. Due to their highly permeable skins, most amphibians cannot tolerate the infusion of salt that occurs when submersed in seawater. A second major limiting factor is the relative scarcity of fresh water habitats available on the island. Most such areas are found only in the central portion of the island, well removed from the waters of the surrounding ocean and bay. All of Assateague’s amphibian species require fresh water to reproduce, but vary in the amount of moisture they require for day-to-day survival. Fowler’s toads can actually tolerate low levels of salinity and are able to absorb moisture from their environment directly through their skin. This decreased dependence on fresh water explains their larger range and ability to survive in most of the island’s habitats. Despite the limited number of species present on Assateague Island, amphibians play a key role in the ecosystem, preying on a wide variety of insects and helping to maintain balance in those populations.

Many animals living on Assateague depend on the ocean as a source of food. Gulls feed on the abundant fish and shellfish, as evidenced by debris from shells dropped onto rocks, roads, and boardwalks hard surfaces. Dolphins, too, hunt among the off-shore schools of fish, as do many commercial and recreational fishermen.

The oceans around Assateague contain vast amounts of plankton. Phytoplankton produces as much as 80% of the Earth’s oxygen and serves as the first level in marine food webs. Along with zooplankton, it provides a food source for organisms ranging in size from small fish and invertebrates up to huge, filter-feeding whales.

Water temperature in the surrounding ocean fluctuates throughout the year. In winter temperatures dip to near 40 °F, while during a warm summer the water can reach into the middle to upper 70’s. As the temperature and weather conditions change, so do the animals inhabiting the offshore waters. Many species of fish, birds, marine mammals, and sea turtles migrate up and down the coast, following the most favorable conditions.

Please do not feed or attempt to pet the wild animals. The wild horses bite and kick, observe them from a distance. Feeding wildlife encourages destructive behavior along roadsides and in campgrounds while adversely affecting their digestive systems.

Fees for the Maryland end of the Seashore are as follows: $3.00 for 7 days for those on foot or bicycle; $ 10.00 for motorcycles for 7 days; $15.00 for 7 days for vehicles; and $30.00 for an Annual pass good from January to December. The Beach parking fee upgrade for USFWS Migratory Waterfowl Duck Stamp, valid July 1 – June 30 annually is $15.00.

Fees for the Virginia end of the Seashore vehicles are $5.00 for 1 day, $15.00 for 7 days. No fee for foot or bike traffic. The Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge Annual Pass is $30.00, good for 1 year after purchase. A $30.00 fee is charged for the USFWS Migratory Waterfowl Duck Stamp ($15.00) plus beach parking fee ($15.00).

A separate $3 per person ($4 for out of state residents) daily pass is required for Assateague State Park from Memorial Day through Labor Day.

Visitors to the Maryland district of Assateague Island may enjoy a variety of camping opportunities. The National Park Service provides year round camping in Oceanside and Bayside campgrounds. These campgrounds are first-come, first-served from October 16 through April 14 ($16.00/night). Reservations are recommended April 15 through October 15 ($20.00/night). The campgrounds are on the National Reservation System. By calling 1-800-365-CAMP (2267), the National Reservation System contractor, SPHERIX, will take reservations up to 5 months in advance of the date you want to camp. Reservations may also be made via the Internet at the National Reservation Service web address, http://reservations.nps.gov. There is a 50% discount for visitors with Golden Age or Golden Access passes.

Both campgrounds offer drive-in pads suitable for tents, trailers and recreational vehicles (no hookups). The Oceanside campground also provides walk-in, tent-only sites, located 100-200 feet from centralized parking areas. Any interested tent, trailer or RV campers may reserve a drive-in site in the “Generator-Free Zone” available in Bayside campground. All campsites provide a picnic table and a grill. All Oceanside sites have upright grills. All Bayside sites have ground fire rings. All fires must be in grills provided at the campsites. Ground fires are prohibited at Oceanside campsites. Centrally located facilities include chemical toilets, cold water showers and drinking water.

For backcountry camping enthusiasts, two oceanside and four bayside sites are available on a first-come, first-served basis for visitors who wish to backpack or paddle the island. All backcountry sites are located in Maryland; no camping is permitted in the Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge. The distance traveled to backcountry sites from the Ranger Station in Maryland range from 2 ½ to 13 miles. If traveling from the Toms Cove Visitor Center in Virginia the nearest campsites are State Line and Pope Bay, each at 12.5 miles. A $5 backcountry permit is required and is only issued during business hours. National Seashore camping information may be mailed upon request. Obtain a detailed brochure by calling (410) 641-3030. Group campsites are available for reservations year round at $30 per night per site. For further information regarding campground regulations, call the Sinepuxent District Ranger Station at (410) 641-3030.

Oceanside sites: camping is allowed within the posted boundaries only, designated by red boundary posts. Sites share a picnic table and a chemical toilet. Little Levels accommodates up to 30 people and State Line accommodates up to 25 people.

Bayside sites: campers must be within a 50 ft. radius of the fire rings in forested areas (except Pope Bay, where shade is limited). Individual campsites are designated by a picnic table and a fire ring and share a chemical toilet. Group and/or person limitations (whichever comes first) are as follows: Tingles Island and Pine Tree up to 5 groups or 25 people; Green Run up to 3 groups or 15 people; and Pope Bay up to 2 groups or 10 people.

On rare occasions the park and/or backcountry campsites will be closed due to severe weather. Otherwise, oceanside sites are usually open year-round. During the spring and summer, however, one or both oceanside sites may be closed due to bird nesting. Bayside sites are open year-round with the exception of a brief period during the hunting season. This period traditionally includes one week in mid- to late-October and a two-week period starting the Saturday after Thanksgiving and ending in mid-December. Please check with the Ranger Station at (410) 641-3030 for designated hunting dates.

There is no camping available in the Virginia district of Assateague Island. Commercial campgrounds are available on the neighboring island of Chincoteague, Virginia. For more information contact the Chincoteague Chamber of Commerce at (757) 336-6161.

Assateague State Park is also located in Maryland on Assateague Island. The State Park provides 350 campsites that are open from April through October. The State Park is open from April 4 through October 31. For reservations, call 1-888-432-2267. Campsites are $30 per night. Electrical hookups are available in a limited number of sites for $40 per night. The campgrounds feature hot water bathhouse facilities available only to State Park campers. Pets are prohibited. For more information call (410) 641-2120.

Assateague State Park is 22 miles away. NASA Wallops Island Flight Facility is 55 miles away. Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge is 60 miles away. Pocomoke River State Park and Forest, Blackwater National Wildlife Refuge, Spruce Knob National Recreation Area, Seneca Rocks National Recreation Area, Lost River State Park, Shenandoah National Park, Canaan Valley State Park are all within driving distance located in Virginia and West Virginia. Washington DC and several other big cities are also within driving distance and offer many options for entertainment.

There are two entrances to Assateague Island National Seashore. Assateague’s north entrance is at the end of Route 611, eight miles south of Ocean City, MD. The south entrance is at the end of Route 175, two miles from Chincoteague, VA. There is no vehicle access between the two entrances on Assateague Island. Vehicles must return to the mainland to access either the north or south entrance.

Assateague Island National Seashore

7206 National Seashore Lane

Berlin, MD 21811 OR

P.O. Box 38

8586 Beach Rd

Chincoteague, VA 23336

Virginia District Visitor Information

(757) 336-6577

Maryland District Visitor Information

410-641-1441

National Seashore Camping

410-641-3030

Map

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